A Peloponnese itinerary including its “Fingers”, “Palm” & 3 days in Greece’s capital with best hotels & restaurants – “Index & Middle Finger”:

Now it is about two more “Fingers of the Peloponnese Hand”! In this context you have to be aware of the fact that this most southern part of mainland Greece is like a left hand directed downwards. In the paragraphs to be followed I go into the “East/Monemvasia Finger” and the “Middle/Mani Finger”. The “Peloponnese Hand” is where my husband and I went end of October last year. Traveling this Greek region steeped in history was a rewarding thing to do! And tourists at this time of the year were not plentiful. Find details of the whole trip in the next paragraph. After this, I will let you know what to do plus where to go for best hotels and (fine-dining) restaurants in the mentioned “Fingers”.

Before elaboration further, there is again my Google Map of our Peloponnese and Athens itinerary. It comes with all the upscale lodging we stayed and the (fine-dining) spots we ate.

Peloponnese & Athens in style, the itinerary overview

My travel report is split in four parts. My last post – part one – went into the trip outline, some general information and the first “Peloponnese Finger”, the “Thumb”. The latter is the region of Argolis with the town of Nafplio. Part two is the present one with the “East or Index Finger” and the “Mani or Middle Finger”. Region wise it concerns Laconia first of all. As to part three, the focus is on the “West or the Ring Finger”, the Messenia region, plus Olympia and the mountainous Arcadia region. And part four is about Athens.

While my husband and I did a road trip in the Peloponnese (part one to three), we were stationary in Athens. Throughout my reporting, you will learn about where to go for the best upscale hotels and restaurants. No easy thing in the Peloponnese I can tell you! However, in Athens, it went smoothly. Furthermore, I will let you know about some major sights everywhere we went (part one to three). In addition, you will also find some walking/hiking suggestions, as we like to explore the area on foot (part one to three).

From place to place in the Peloponnese, part II, “Peloponnese East & Mani Fingers”

1. “Peloponnese East Finger”

A good base on the “Peloponnese East Finger” is Monemvasia, a dramatic place just off the coast. When driving here from Nafplio, we did a stop in Tyros, a small, charming seaside town. It is great for a short walk along the beautiful pebbled beach. And Café Zorbas is good for a drink.

About the “Peloponnese East Finger”

Monemvasia

The absolute highlight on this “Finger” is Monemvasia, without any doubt. Nothing prepares you for the sight of this (almost) inhabited rock rising out of the sea. It is often compared to the Rock of Gibraltar, although it is only a fraction of its size. Yet it is still just as dramatic. Locals call this place “The Castle”, but it actually is a stunning fortified town. This medieval place comes with castle walls (lower town) and a fortress on the top (upper town). While the former is well-kept,

the latter is mostly in ruins, expect the Church of Hagia Sophia.

It is well worth climbing up to the upper town, not only to see the ruins but also for the views of the sea and the town of Gefira.

Find here the link to a hike leading around the rock and through both the upper and lower town. Recommended places for small bites in the area are Emvasis Café in the lower town and  Bakery Angelakos, south of Gefira.

Further activity “Peloponnese East Finger”

We did one more activity on the “Peloponnese East Finger”, and this was a walk/hike in its very south. It starts in a remote fishing village

leading along the beautiful coast. Nearby is also the Geopark of Agios Nikolaos, a petrified forest. While we did not have time to visit this attraction, it might be worth doing.

When being in the area and longing for fine pastry, head to Laconia’s capital, Neapoli Vion. Here you find several establishments offering such treats. My husband and I opted for this place and very much liked what we got!

Our hotel: Kinsterna Monemvasia, one of the best hotels on the Peloponnese East Finger

Hotel Kinsterna is the only five-star accommodation far and wide. That is not all, it really is a dreamy property! This fort-like manor is perched up high on the hillside a short stretch down the coast from the Monemvasia Castle. It has origins dating back to the mid 17th century. When the current owners purchased the estate in 2002, it was in bad shape. Since 2006, it underwent renovations and reopened in 2010, restored to its former glory.

Out of the 52 rooms, my husband and I opted for a Premium Residence. These rooms offer much space (35-42sqm)

and come with a large terrace

as well as a marble bathroom.

Ours had a view of the gardens, which was nice. As to the decor, it was a lovely mix of traditional and modern elements. The one thing that we did not like so much was that the room was a bit dark. The daily rate amounted to 452€ with breakfast.

In terms of restaurants, there are two onsite. It is about the all-day Mouries and the Linos Tavern, which is only open seasonally (on certain days). We had dinner at the former once, but we did not return as the experience disappointed (mediocre food, inconsistent service). However, breakfast was a different affair with lots of choice and pleasant staff.

Otherwise, the facilities at Kinsterna are great. You find here two pools and an extensive activity program. And the staff was generally friendly and well trained.

Our restaurant: Athivoli Monemvasia, one of the best restaurants on the Peloponnese East Finger

As we were not in favor of the restaurant at our hotel (see above), we dined elsewhere. And Athivoli,

a tavern on the coast south of the Monemvasia Castle, turned out to be a hit! On two occasions, it persuaded with well-made Greek cuisine that came with a modern twist now and then. I very much liked the starters just as fried local cheese (8€) or roasted aubergine (7€). Also the spinach salad was a good choice (10€). When it came to mains, we did not try out the meat dishes, but only had fish and seafood (15 to 18€). Yet these dishes were made with quality ingredients and immaculately prepared. And they were accompanied by original sides. The two desserts we had, Ekmek Kataifi (6€) and Lemon Pie(7€), were equally fine.

As to the setting, it was the most cultivated ambiance we encountered in a Greek tavern during our 17-day stay in this country. And the service was friendly and accommodating. We even got a gratis after-dinner liqueur on our second visit!

2. “Peloponnese Mani Finger”

On the transfer from the “East Finger” (Monemvasia) to Aeropoli and surroundings – where you find the most lodging options – , it makes sense to stop in Gythio, a picturesque coastal town. It is the capital of the so-called Lower Mani. If you have a sweet tooth, this patisserie makes heavenly pastries!

And also have a look at the Dimitrios Shipwreck on Valtaki Beach.

About the “Peloponnese Mani Finger”

Why Mani deserves a special mention

The “Mani Finger” is definitively something special! Whereas in other parts of the Peloponnese you find lovely landscapes with olive-studded hills and villages of golden stone, this is different in the Inner Mani (south of Areopoli). Both the land and people are austere. Stark, treeless mountain, stone fields and stone towers shape the landscape. Mani is home to the Maniots, known as fierce warriors, who used to fight seemingly endlessly about water and land. They built stone houses with castle-like towers, and this often in almost inaccessible hillsides.

It was not until the 1970s, when the national government reduced the local autonomy in Mani. From then on, new roads were constructed to bind all the towns to civilization. While this was the start to touristic development, mass tourism has not (yet) reached this part of the Peloponnese – and hopefully never will! For me, Mani is the most beautiful part we encountered here. It is different, wild, harsh, sometimes dismissive, but also authentic, relaxed and friendly.

What to do in (Inner) Mani

Touring the Mani villages

The unique combination of rugged landscapes, small villages with ancient tower houses (called pyrgospita) and remote, narrow beaches has its unique appeal. A good idea to get an impression of the Inner Mani is to go on a car tour. Here is a suggestion for a half- to full-day trip: Pirgos Dirou (Diros Caves) – Charouda (Temple of Taxiarchis) – Drialos (Church Agios Georgios) – Mezapos (Chalikia Beach) – Kato Gardenitsa (Church Naos tou Sotira) – Gerolimenas (beautiful coastal town, Restaurant Veludo, KaSeas Boutique Hotel) –

Vathia (tower houses) – Marmari Beach – Porto Kagio – Kokinogia (one-hour walk to Cape Tainaron Lighthouse) – drive back along the Mani east coast (towns with imposing tower houses: Lagia, Exo Nimfio and Flomochori / beach stops: Kokala Beach, Kontronas Beach).

Other things to do in Mani

We did not the above mentioned walk to Cape Tainaron but instead chose the one to Tigani Castle more northwest. And this was a rewarding thing to do! This estate in ruins sits on a spectacular peninsula that looks like a frying pan, which is actually its name in Greek. You have stunning views all the time, and you can roam around the ruins of a medieval fortress. Historians have varying opinions about this place (if it is the mysterious Grand Magne or something different). Anyway, it is fun exploring it a bit. Here is the link to this walk/hike, starting from the village of Agias Kiriakis. On your return, you could also do a detour to Church Panagia Agitria (maybe add another 50 minutes for walking).

Instead of making the above side trip, we shortly visited the village of Mezapos with its Chalikia Beach (see also above chapter). We had viewed it from Agios Kiriakis and wanted to see it up close. And we had two more places on our agenda which you should not miss on your Mani trip, Aeropoli

and Limeni.

he former is Mani’s capital and has a nice old town with its characteristic tower houses. Not far from it you find the port of Limeni, more a hamlet around an idyllic cove.

Our hotel: Aria Estate Mani, one of the best hotels on the Peloponnese Mani Finger

For quite some time we struggled to find a hotel to stay in style in the Inner Mani. As we were here at the beginning of November, many lodgings had already closed down for the season. Finally, we were fortunate to happen across Hotel Aria Estate! It is remotely situated on a hillside facing the sea, about 8 minutes by car either from Aeropoli and Limeni. What a gorgeous property it is! I was excited from the beginning when driving down the driveway.

And my enthusiasm lasted until our departure three nights later!

First of all, I adored the hotel’s fantastic setting and its tranquil vibe. Then I was fond of its layout and construction, an array of stone houses made in the typical Maniot architecture. It was built in 2018 and has 15 rooms. We opted for the top one-bedroom accommodation, the One Bedroom Superior Seaview Jacuzzi (48sqm, 340€ with breakfast per night). It is a dreamy place! It consists of a bedroom, a living room with a wet bar, a balcony and a terrace with a jacuzzi.

What a great thing to experience the sunset from here! I also liked the interiors, which are airy and all kept in bright colors. While the bathroom is not overly big, it was okay for the two of us.

The female hotel manager seemed to have a firm hand on the estate. She was always present to guide the staff (not all had a good command of English) and to take care of the guests. On site you also find two pools – one outdoor,

the other in the spa.

And there is a restaurant, more about it below.

Our restaurant: Horizon at Hotel Aria Estate Mani (Instagram), one of the best restaurants on the Peloponnese Mani Finger

It was impossible to find a similarly good dining spot as Restaurant Horizon at our hotel (see above) in the area. At least that was true at the beginning of November when some spots had already closed for the season. We dined here three times and found it to be one of the better eateries we had on our Peloponnese stay. And the (à la carte) breakfast at Horizon was definitely the best we experienced on our Greece journey (including Athens)!

On offer here is high-quality Mediterranean fare with a creative twist, here and there with a focus on local food. The dinner menu features starters just as sea bass carpaccio (15€) or local cheese croquettes (14€) and two salads (12€). For mains think of a regional chicken dish (18€) or shrimps with local pasta (20€). Desserts include their take of Bougatsa, a Greek custard pie, (10€) or more international choices just a chocolate mousse with ice cream (12€). When dining here three times in a row, there was enough variation in choices to prevent repetition.

The setting at Restaurant Horizon is nice with white linen-covered tables in the evening. Al fresco dining would have be an option on our stay, but we found it too chilly outside. And on one or two evenings, it also was quite cool inside as they let the entrance door as well as the terrace door open. Yet Horizon is not an exception in this regard, Greek people seem to love draughty restaurants … Staff was friendly and helpful but not always experienced, which however was not a major issue.

Looking forward and back to road trip in the Peloponnese in style (Part I, III & IV)

I started in the last post with an overview of the whole 17-day Peloponnese and Athens journey. In addition, i informed about some things to know when coming to this southernmost region of Greece, especially in fall. Plus, I began with part one of four in total, the “Peloponnese Thumb”, that is Nafplio and the Argolis region. As in all parts, I advised on some major sights including suggestions for walks/hikes. And as my husband and I look out for the best high-end hotels and restaurants everywhere we go, this topic is always covered in my reporting. Here in this very post, it was about the “Peloponnese East Finger” around Monemvasia and the “Peloponnese Middle or Mani Finger”. Part three will focus on the “Peloponnese West Finger” (Messenia)

and the mountain region of Arcadia.

Part four finally will go into a city-stay in Athens.

Date of stay: November 2024

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