Where to go on the flower island of Madeira for (truly) luxury hotels:

In my last post, I informed about Madeira as a travel destination. Now it is the turn of the luxury hotel landscape on this island in the North Atlantic. I will start with a short account of the beginnings of the hotel industry here. In a second step, there will be an overview of recommended luxury hotels in Madeira. Separate blogposts will cover how it is staying and dining in style at two upscale Madeira accommodations (Reid’s Palace and Les Suites at the Cliff Bay). And to close, yet another post will be about where to head for (Michelin) fine dining on the island (inside and outside of hotels).

Development of Madeira’s luxury hotel industry

How it all started

As I outlined in my post about everything you have to know when traveling to Madeira, this island has a long history of tourism. While it started with therapeutic tourism in the 19th century, it soon became popular for its beautiful scenery and its mild, semi-tropical climate. The latter fact even made it to a year-round destination. In contrast to other destinations in the North Atlantic (Canary Islands), it is not your typical place for beach vacations. Due to the lack of sandy beaches and stable weather conditions it is rather ideal for active travel. Having said that, lounging poolside and seaside is an option here, too. After all, there is a pleasant climate all year round, albeit it is sometimes on the capricious side.

Madeira’s first luxury hotel

The first luxury hotel on the island of Madeira was the Reid’s Palace, set on cliff tops in subtropical gardens overlooking the Atlantic Ocean (my review). This legendary luxury hotel was built by the Scotsman William Reid, who made his fortune in the Madeiran wine trade. It was opened in 1891, shortly after his death, by his two sons. Most of its visitors at the time belonged to the wealthy European – and particularly the British – aristocracy.

What was next

On the back of William Reid’s success, several other hotels followed. Yet beds were still limited until the opening of the airport in 1963. Another grand dame here was the Savoy Classic. It was built in 1912 and was especially frequented by British aristocrats, too. While the Reid’s Palace was able to survive, this was not the case for the Savoy Classic. It became a relic of the past and was torn down in 2008.

For a long time, Madeirans relied on elite tourism. This resulted in a high number of four- and five-star establishments until the 1970s. From then on, the number of hotels catering to middle-classes visitor increased. And the island developed to a highly popular tourist destination. In 2019, there were roughly eight million overnight stays by visitors. The most important countries of origin are the United Kingdom, Germany and France. And Madeira largely escaped mass tourism because people come here not primarily for sea, sun and sand.

Current luxury hotel situation in Madeira

When looking for a five-star hotel around Madeira’s capital of Funchal, you are overwhelmed by the choice. There are more than twenty of them. At a closer inspection, it becomes clear that not all of them will meet the requirements of  a demanding clientele.

In my opinion, quite a few of the five-star establishments on the island do not deserve this classification. The ones in question do not look like luxury hotels and they are not priced accordingly either. To be precise, they are neither luxurious enough nor as pricey as you would expect. In fact, you can reside at a five-star here for a bargain rate.

Nevertheless, there is a number of luxury hotels in Madeira which deliver what they promise. And which will please to discerning guests, as well. I will go into them in the section after next. First, I will give an overview of available five-star hotels on the island.

Overview of luxury hotels in Madeira

First, an introductory remark to hotel names in Madeira. Some accommodations come with the byname of quinta. This is a former mansion that has been converted in a boutique hotel. So, it actually is a historic property. And these quintas are often a bit away from the sea, mostly in the hill tops.

Further it is to be noted that many accommodations in Funchal – not only five-star establishments – are located in a special area. It is called hotel zone and is west from Praça do Infante. You find here concrete palaces and high-rise buildings that grow into the sky. The reason for this – not very attractive – building style is the lack of space. Hotels are usually meant to be as close to the sea as possible. And in Madeira the space between the rocky coast and the mountains framing the bay is limited.

Worth mentioning is also the fact that there is not a single international hotel chain present in Madeira. Sheraton and Holiday Inn used to be here in the 1970s, but not for a long time. Instead, you find on the island – among others – the Pestana brand. This is Portugal’s largest hotel group. There are four Pestana five-star accommodations in Madeira. Furthermore, you find several “quinta hotels” in the luxury segment. And the Spanish hotel group Melia is present, as well (one five-star).

Now I come to those luxury hotels in Funchal and surroundings that I personally consider as “good to go”. These are such ones that offer a true five-star experience and come with good reviews, too (at least 4.5 with TripAdvisor and 9.0 with Booking.com).

“Good to go” luxury hotels in and around Funchal

I start with the ones I have already been resp. their sister hotels. This will be followed by a (short) list of other accommodations that I think will also deliver in terms of being “really luxurious”. Please note that this assessment is solely based on my personal opinion. I do not want to rule out the possibility that there are more of them.

1. Reid’s Palace, a Belmond Hotel (stay in 2021)

Madeira’s grand old dame is still one of the best options to stay in style on the island. And it is probably the most expensive one, at least if you go for a reasonably sized room. Come here if you want to immerse in a long gone era of grandeur, history and glamour. You can still get the feeling how it was in the late 1800s! And its location is unrivaled, dramatically perched on a rugged cliff. The sea is close – just walk down the steps to the sea deck – and the same is true for Funchal’s town center (22 minutes by foot).

Find a detailed review of my recent stay here on my blog soon.

2. Les Suites at The Cliff Bay, PortoBay (stay in 2021)

This new addition to The Cliff Bay (see below) was opened in 2019. You find here suites only, all of them spacious and modernly designed. And there are only 23 of them, most of them in the new wing. Two 100-year-old mansions are also part of the property. As to its location, Les Suites at The Cliff Bay is between The Cliff Bay and the Reid’s Palace, on a cliff top and in walking distance to Funchal’s core (25 minutes).

In case you want to know more about this luxury hotel, one of my next blogposts will go into it.

3. The Cliff Bay, Porto Bay (stay in sister hotel 2021)

Although I have not resided at The Cliff Bay itself, I was able to have a close look at it on my recent stay at its sister hotel Les Suites at Cliff Bay. While this of course did not include the guest rooms, this should be no issue as they all got a new look in 2021. Apropos look, the building’s aesthetics might not be state-of-the-art, as its opening dates back to 1994. Yet it persuades with a top setting on a promontory with sea access and a closeness to the town center of Funchal (28 minutes by foot).

There will be no separate hotel review of this hotel as I have not actually stayed here. Nonetheless, you will find some information about it in my post about Les Suites at Cliff Bay, to be published soon on this blog.

4. Quinta da Casa Branca (stay in 2007)

I stayed here back in 2007 on my first trip to Madeira. At the time, my husband and I together with our teenage son had a great time at this hotel, comprised of a new wing along a historic manor house. And to my amazement, it is still considered to be a top address when looking for staying in style on this island.

Quinta da Casa Branca was opened in 1998. In 2002, a new wing was added – our choice for lodging in 2007 – , which made it Madeira’s first design hotel. And apparently, these accommodations have been refurbished recently. The ones in the manor house are kept in an antique style. The hotel’s best asset is its setting in beautiful botanical gardens, set back from the road.

In terms of location, it is in the immediate neighborhood of the Reid’s Palace and Les Suites at The Cliff Bay. In contrast to them, the Quinta da Casa Branca is on the other side of the road, so there is no sea view to speak of here – and no sea access either. To reach Funchal’s downtown, you need about 26 minutes by foot.

5. Other seemingly “good to go” luxury hotels in Madeira

From what I read and heard, the Savoy Hotels & Resorts promise a genuinely luxurious hotel experience, too. As to five-star establishments, there are three of them in Madeira.

First of all, there is the new Savoy Palace that replaced the Savoy Classic (torn down in 2008). It was opened in 2019 – after some hiccups before its erection. It is the island’s largest hotel, shaped like an undulating wave. And this modern accommodation is the first in Madeira that became a member of the prestigious The Leading Hotels of the World. While it is not directly by the sea, it offers ocean views thanks to its hill setting. And it is favorably located near Funchal’s center (16 minutes by foot).

Next there is the Royal Savoy, opened in the early 2000s. You cannot claim that it is an architectural gem. But what it lacks in style, it makes up with its seaside location and its closeness to Funchal’s core (19 minutes by foot). And Royal Savoy’s guest rooms seem to be in a good shape (newly renovated).

Last on the list is the Savoy Saccharum in the coastal town of Calheta in the west of Madeira. This newly built hotel opened in 2015 on the site of a former sugar cane mill – hence the name. It is a large, contemporary construction, well integrated with the surrounding landscape. The hotel is located seaside – separated by a road – , 38 minutes by car from Funchal’s center.

Looking back and forward

My last post was about all the essential information on Madeira when traveling to this island off the western African coast. The current one went into which luxury hotels in Madeira to choose for (truly) staying in style. In the time to come, there will be reviews of two of the best high-end accommodations, the Reid’s Palace (my review) and Les Suites at The Cliff Bay (my review).

And to end this mini-series, I will inform about where to go for (Michelin) fine dining in this “flower paradise”.

Date of stay: November 2021

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The post Where to stay in style in Funchal/Madeira off the western African coast first appeared on Swiss Traveler