How it is touring this Himalayan kingdom on a 9-night trip arranged by COMO: 

After giving an overview on the three luxury hotel brands with multiple locations in Bhutan, now to one of them. It is about Hotel COMO Bhutan, the choice of my husband and myself for our recent stay in the Land of the Thunder Dragon. It consists of two hotels, which are part of a family-owned group of hotels and resorts worldwide. In the following, you will learn how it is traveling the Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan on a journey arranged by COMO. In this post, the focus will be on the properties, the hotel life and the organization of the trip. As to the itinerary, I already went into this topic earlier on my blog (a perfect 9-day Bhutan itinerary).

Before delving into the COMO Bhutan properties plus another affiliated one, first to two other things. First, a look at my mini series about Bhutan. Second, a short introduction into the luxury hotel brand of COMO Hotels and Resorts.

My mini series about Bhutan travel

This very post is the fourth in my mini series about traveling Bhutan, the mystic land in the Himalayas. The first was a travel guide, followed by the above mentioned itinerary and the overview on luxury hotel brands operating in the field of multi-destination journeys. Next on my blog, opportunities for a pre- or post-Bhutan trip will set an end point to my Bhutan mini series.

Backstory of COMO Hotels & Resorts

COMO Hotels and Resorts is a Singapore-based company with a portfolio of 16 properties worldwide to date. It was founded in 1991 by Christina Ong, born out of a simple need. She sought an intimate hotel in London, which was stylish yet also intuitive and discreet. At the same time, it should have a sense of place, but also with a distinct and personal character. Furthermore, she wanted this hotel to have a restaurant with healthy and high-quality food. So, she brought COMO The Halkin on a quiet street in Belgravia to life.

This was also the first property of this luxury hotel group where my husband and I stayed at. And this already on two occasions (my post). We also spent some time at their hotel in Miami Beach.

Furthermore, we already had booked a stay at COMO The Treasury in Perth/Australia before we had to cancel it because of the COVID-19 pandemic. And we also know COMO Metropolitan Bangkok, where we resided prior to our Bhutan visit (more follows soon on my blog).

While all the 16 COMO Hotels and Resorts share the same values, they honor their respective location. Their portfolio consists of island resorts, hotels in urban heritage buildings and two boutique brands, COMO Metropolitan and COMO Uma. As to the Metropolitan properties, I already mentioned the one in Bangkok. There is one city hotel more, and this in London. With regard to the Uma brand, it is about small resorts with adventurous locations. Bhutan has two of them, in Bali there are two more.

COMO Hotels and Resorts Bhutan

In contrast to its competitors of Aman and Six Senses (see my comparison), COMO limits itself on two properties only. One is in the Paro Valley near the country’s only international airport, the other in Punakha Valley.

When my husband and I booked our Bhutan journey about four years ago (initially for April 2020, finally postponed to April 2023), Hotel COMO Bhutan partnered up with a hotel in a third valley, the Gangtey respectively the Phobjikha Valley, at the time. Nowadays, this option is no longer listed on their homepage. Instead, they offer as third accommodation a stay at a fully serviced overnight camp.

Now to what to expect when staying at following three hotels: COMO Uma Paro, COMO Uma Punakha and Gangtey Lodge. For our Bhutan travel plan, check out my perfect 9-day-itinerary in a separate post. Regarding tour organization (journey with a private guide), there will be more information under point “4. COMO Bhutan private tour organization”.

1. COMO Uma Paro

Location

This is the COMO property first opened in Bhutan, and this back in 2004. It nestles on a hillside, among a pine tree forest, with a fabulous view of Paro Valley. You can reach it in only ten minutes from the airport, the last bit is on a rough road through the forest.

Rooms/Pricing at COMO Paro

29 rooms are available, including nine villas. As to the rooms, you can make your choice out of three categories: Forest View Room (25 sqm, from 530 US$), Valley View Room (32 sqm, from 675 US$) and COMO Suite (95 sqm, from 915 US$). In terms of villas, you may opt either for the One-Bedroom Villa (92 sqm, from 1,100 US$) or the COMO Villa (300 sqm, from 1,850 US$). Dinner is included in the prices mentioned.

My husband and I spent four nights here, two to start our COMO “journey”, two to end it. The first time, we stayed at Valley View Room, the second time – we were granted an upgrade because we had been holding our reservation for three years, paid in advance – at a One-Bedroom Villa. Here are the details.

Valley View Room

While this room is not exactly spacious, it is practically furnished, and this in a traditional Buthanese style. There is a small balcony from which you have a great view of the Paro Valley.

Artisan-crafted woodwork and hand-painted walls add to the rustic character of the guest quarter.

The bathroom is not large yet features a tub and a separate shower.

All in all, you find here everything you need as a demanding guest, but you definitely cannot call it super luxurious. And it is a bit on the cramped side.

One-Bedroom Villa

Too little space is for sure no problem at the generous One-Bedroom Villa. Ours even had a second bedroom (king bed) with its own bathroom.

All the villas are situated in the pine forest, at a good distance from each other. That comes along with no view of Paro Town or the Valley. However, you enjoy here lots of privacy.

Apart from the sizable bedroom

there is a living room appointed with a dining table and a Buthanese Bukhari (fireplace).

Adjacent to it, is a small kitchen with a second (butler) entry. The One-Bedroom Villa has yet another room, where treatments can take place (we did not have this one, but as mentioned a second bedroom).

The bathroom is huge, coming with double sinks, a free-standing tub, a closet, a separate shower and toilet plus a comfortable seating area.

And there is a large outdoor area, the so-called verandah. As to the decor, it it similar to the above mentioned Valley View Room. An additional feature are the hand-knotted rugs from Nepal. Residing at a One-Bedroom Villa also has the benefit of a personal butler service.

Ambiance/Staff at COMO Paro

On our first stay, there was lot going on at the hotel because we happened to be here during the Paro Festival. Staff was friendly yet sometimes a bit stressed. Instead of an à la carte service at the restaurant there was a buffet to help yourself from it.

When we returned on the end of our Bhutan trip, there was “courant normal”. It was a less hectic atmosphere yet there was not really a contemplative mood. Probably, the hotel is not small enough to provide a calmer state as it is the case at the sister hotel in Punakha. While service was hospitable and polite, it was sometimes a bit on the impersonal side, especially at the reception desk.

The General Manager (for both COMO hotels) showed presence on both our stays. He is clearly dedicated to his job yet has a bit of a didactic nature and seems always to be very busy.

The last evening we spent here, was not overly pleasant. When we arrived for dinner, only one of the Bukharis (Buthanese fireplaces) in the public spaces was lit. So, it was quite cold not only at the restaurant, but also at the bar and in the lobby area. As a consequence, we had to settle near the reception – by the only lighted fireplace – to have an after dinner drink.

Facilities/Restaurants

COMO Uma Paro is the hotel group’s flagship lodge in Bhutan. The main building used to be the home of a Buthanese nobleman, and it really is quite a sight. Onsite you find two courtyards, an upper and lower one, an indoor pool,

a Shambala Retreat (spa), a fitness room,

a yoga studio, meadows, woodlands, a plant garden and an archery ground.

As to dining, there is the Bukhari Restaurant inside a round building, which also seems to be a favorite of the king.

They serve Western, Indian and Buthanese dishes here, made from organic and locally sourced produce. And we usually liked what we got, opting almost always for Asian food.

Maybe it was sometimes not spicy enough. But we often felt at hotel restaurants in Bhutan that they play it safe when it comes to this. You have to know in this context that Buthanese people like their food very spicy. So, I think they “tone it down” sometimes a bit too much, at least for our taste. And one more thing, the hot dishes on the buffet service (only during Paro Festival) were consistently not hot enough!

In case you care for small bites, you can also have them at the Uma Bar. Here you get all-day dining, and you can also book the premises for private gatherings.

2. COMO Uma Punakha

Location

This is the second and last COMO property in Bhutan to date. It was opened in 2012, yet apparently it was originally meant to do so in 2004, together with its sister hotel in 2004. From what I heard, the worldwide financial crisis of 2008 impeded this.

The hotel is set in a terraced hillside at the western end of the Punakha Valley, a lush, subtropical vale. From here, you overlook a bend in the Mo Chhu (Female) river. COMO Punakha is pretty remote, which is a major part of its charm. You reach it from Paro in a four- to five-hour drive.

Rooms/Pricing at COMO Punakha

It is an intimate place, with elven rooms only. There are eight rooms and two villas.

There is only one accommodation category, the Valley View Room (27 to 34 sqm, from 675 US$). As to the villas, there is a smaller (51 sqm, price to be inquired) and a larger (90 sqm, price to be inquired). The rates include the dinner.

My husband and I spent two nights here. It was the second stop of our COMO “journey”. And we had a Valley View Room.

Valley View Room

While there is only one room category, the accommodations slightly differ depending whether they are on the ground floor or one below. The former have large French windows – which can only partly opened – , the latter a balcony. The rooms on the ground floor benefit of a wider view, also to be enjoyed from the shower.

Some of their counterparts one floor down may do so from the tub.

I liked the room better than the one at Paro (of the same category). This because it feels airier and has a lounge area from which you can take in the fabulous views of terraced fields and river. As to its furnishings, it is similar to the one at its sister property, although of more recent date. The room shares the same somewhat minimalist style yet it feels cozy after all.

Ambiance/Staff

I preferred the ambiance at COMO Punakha over the one at Punakha. It was much more serene and calm than the rather busy one at the sister hotel. Right when stepping through the entrance gate, you could feel it. It seems like the quiet of the surrounding nature casts a spell upon everyone, the guests yet also the staff.

As to the latter, service was immaculate throughout our stay. Often when returning from an excursion, one staff member magically shows up bringing along your room key right to the entrance! Yet everywhere on the premises it made the impression that they could read every wish from your eyes. The praise includes the resident manager, a lovely Thai lady, who regularly enquired how we were doing.

Facilities/Restaurants at COMO Punakha

The hotel is not as well equipped as its sister property in Paro. For example, it does not feature a pool. This not only in contrast to COMO Paro, but also to the other luxury players on site. Although, you find here a COMO Shambala Retreat (spa). Here it is highly recommended to have a Buthanese traditional hot stone bath.

The restaurant goes under the same name as the one in Paro, Restaurant Bukhari. Apart from a dining room there is also a nice outdoor area. The same is true for the adjoining bar/lobby.

As to the culinary aspect, the offerings are similar to those at its sister hotel in Paro, yet I found the cuisine here a tad better.

I especially was more in favor of the breakfast you get in Punakha. There is no buffet, everything is served. The daily baked pastries, the lassis of the day or the hot item options just as the ricotta French toast were just great!

3. Gangtey Lodge Gangtey/Phobjikha Valley

The Gangtey Lodge in the Gangtey respectively Phobjikha Valley is not part of COMO Hotels and Resorts. Yet when we booked our Hotel COMO Bhutan “journey” (see concept/itinerary), there was some sort of collaboration.

It actually is one of the few independent boutique lodges in Bhutan, established in 2013 by owners Khin Omar Win and Brett Melzer.

Location

When approaching, it does not become clear at first sight that a hotel awaits you here. This because the Gangtey Lodge is designed in harmony with the local village and the 17th-century monastery, which are both just a short walk away. The building looks like a traditional farmhouse, albeit a grand one.

You are here at the beautiful Gangtey or Phobjikha Valley, as it is known formally. It is about a wide glacial vale full of meadows and farmland, bounded by the Black Mountains. The remote area can be reached from Punakha in a three- to four-hour drive or directly from Paro in four- to five-hour drive.

Rooms/Pricing at Gangtey Lodge

There is only one room category, the Farmhouse Suite (46 sqm). And you find only 12 of them here.  Just as at COMO Punakha, you are in here for an intimate ambiance. In terms of rates, they start at 660 US$ (half board) respectively 720 US$ (full board).

Farmhouse Suite

This was definitely the most beautiful (and largest) room of our Bhutan trip, featuring a large lounging area, fireplace and freestanding tub. It is kept in a Buthanese style, coming with dark nature tones and cozy fabrics.

And the views are commanding, from the valley over to the village and the monastery. Plus, the room has underfloor heating, and the bathroom is spacious.

Our room was on the lower of two floors in the house north of the main building. For best vista, I would recommend an accommodation on the upper floor at the other guest quarters, nearer to the Gangtey village and monastery.

While I was very much in favor of our room’s look, I was not overly satisfied with some practical aspects. Among other things, you could not open the windows properly as the tub in front of it hinders doing so.

Ambiance/Staff

It is an extremely hospitable hotel. Upon arrival, the general manager, Anja Zok, a nice Polish lady, welcomed us at the entrance. She gave us a present, a traditional ceremonial scarf, and accompanied us to the main lodge. Here staff greeted us with a song, a welcome drink and a shoulder massage. I could not imagine a much better start!

Also what followed, was persuasive. Staff tried their best to make us welcome on every occasion. When coming back from a hike, they offered to clean our hiking boots. Or they asked after dinner whether they should light a fire at our room’s fireplace. And Chef Soh, the long time cook here, went to great lengths to stand by my side because of digestion problems I had at the time. Kudos to the team!

Facilities/Restaurants at Gangtey Lodge

There is a double-height lobby/lounge/dining room with big picture windows

allowing a stunning view of valley,

village and monastery.

Here you also find two big inside/outside stone fireplaces, which makes the terrace usable year-round.

This central meeting point is open from early in the morning until late in the evening. You may show up here whenever you feel like it, for just sitting here by the fire or for meals.

There is a bath house where you can try out a hot stone bath, an ancient Buthanese bathing ritual. Or you can choose from a number of massages. You also find an archery ground on the premises. In addition, there is an array of options to immerse more in the environment, be it in the areas of nature, spiritual, dining and culture.

As to dining, I already informed you about the location and the chef, now it is about the food. You eat here well. For dinner you can either order the “Southeast Asian Set” or choose from an à la carte menu with western and Asian dishes. As to breakfast, you can help yourself from a small assortment of continental breakfast items on a table. Plus, there is a limited à la carte menu to choose from (no sweet options).

4. COMO Bhutan private tour organization

After outlining already several times in my Bhutan reporting about traveling this country via a private guided tour by one of three luxury hotel brands (my post), now to some details how it is doing so with COMO Hotels and Resorts. For the itinerary we chose, check out my corresponding post.

The Hotel COMO Bhutan tours usually include accommodation (full board), a private guide and driver for transport and excursions, all fees and one massage. In addition, this provider can also handle the necessary Bhutan visa and flights via Druk Air or Bhutan Airlines on their customers’ behalf. So, it is actually an “all inclusive” arrangement.

If you should not find your desired itinerary on the COMO Bhutan website, you can also get in touch with them to plan a tailor-made journey.

Our COMO Buthan private guided tour

On our 9-night-itinerary, Kuenzang (guide) and Damchoe (driver) were assigned to us.

While the former is permanently employed by Hotel COMO Bhutan, the latter is a free-lancer. We were told that there are no fixed guide-driver teams at this provider. Instead, they constantly make new pairings. As to the one we got, we could not have been more happy!

While our travel plan was set, there was still room for changes to be made. My husband and I, for example, asked for walking the area whenever possible or not to start too early in the morning, if not necessary. And Kuenzang happily complied with our wishes.

As to his way of touring, he is an easygoing, humorous person yet also showed seriousness when indicated. Of course, he has a wide knowledge as to Bhutan, but he shared it with us on a bit-by-bit basis without overwhelming us. He always was super friendly, helpful and considerate. We would not have wanted anybody else to show us around in Bhutan! And his grasp of English is excellent.

As to our driver, Damchoe, he is nice person too. Whereas he rather stayed in the background, he chatted with us occasionally (never while driving), and was always gracious. And the most important thing of all, he turned out to be an excellent driver!

Postscript to our guide Kuenzang: guiding besides COMO Bhutan

Kuenzang Tobgay offers his services as a tour guide also as a free-lancer. And he is able to put together tours for visitors looking for good hotels without wanting to spend a fortune too! If you should be interested in exploring Bhutan with him – highly recommended – , contact him on Instagram or Facebook.

Looking back and forward on my blog

My Bhutan mini series started with a travel guide, followed by a perfect 9-day itinerary and an overview of travel plans offered by the three players in the country’s luxury hotel segment. And the current post focuses on how it is traveling the Land of the Thunder Dragon with COMO Hotels and Resorts. Next on my blog, I will go into possible pre- and post-Bhutan stays. This because it is usually not possible to directly fly into Druk Yul from more distant destinations.

Date of visit: April 2023

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