How to get the most out of your trip to the Island of Gods as a discerning traveler:

In case you are a luxury travel enthusiast and about to go to Bali, I might provide some advice. Especially so, when it comes to which areas to choose for staying in style. This is also true when looking for some general information on the Island of the Gods. Think in this context of some background to Bali as a tourism destination or the best time for a trip here. If you care for doing the one or other walk on this magical island, then I might help too. Finally, being a (hardcore) foodie, I am able to provide a couple of really good addresses too, especially in Ubud!

What to expect in detail

While my main focus is about where to go for staying and dining in style in Bali, I will start my report on this island with some general observations. A view on its tourism industry makes the start, followed by some considerations as to its future. The section to follow illuminates the best time for visiting this destination. As Bali makes a good place for walking, there will be some information about how to proceed if you wish to do so. In a post to come I will suggest some Bali walks, and this divided by areas.

In a further step, I will go into which regions to choose for your stay on the island. This selection takes into account not only getting Bali’s essence but also making sure that it suits the demanding traveler. In this post, I limit myself in indicating areas with specific places that cater for luxury travel. When it comes to concrete upscale hotels, this will be the topic of a future blogpost.

In yet another post, I want to give an account of the fabulous (casual) fine dining options in Ubud, Bali’s cultural heart. When being here recently, my husband and I tried out five of the best what this town has to offer in terms of high end gastronomy.

As I can look back at four stays in Bali over the last years, I have already written quite a number of posts about this destination. I will include them in my reporting whereever it makes sense. My goal is it to complement the information already gathered on previous trips with new insights gained on my recent stay.

Bali as a travel destination

The Island of the Gods has attracted Westerners for more than 100 years. And since the 70s of the last century, it has drawn more and more visitors. The Australians were the first who came to Bali in bigger groups. That is no wonder because this island is not far away from Australia. And Bali became increasingly popular for Australian tourists in search of beach, beer and bungalow. The hot-spot in this context became Kuta, close to the international airport of Denpasar.

From 2012 to 2019 the number of foreign tourists coming to Bali has more than doubled (from 2.9 million to 6.3 million, source: Statista 2022). While the Australians remained the biggest group of tourists until 2016, this changed the following year. In 2017, the Chinese overtook them. And they predominantly came for an average three to four day stay as part of a package deal. In the years to follow, there was the pandemic which let the number of visitors slump.

Since the borders have reopened in February 2022, tourists are back. The target of 1.5 million tourists for 2022 will most probably not only be hit but surpassed (1.4 millions until end of October 2022, source: The Bali Sun). The Australians became the most frequent international visitors to Bali again. That is not surprising as the Chinese are not yet allowed to travel abroad. Will everything in Bali continue much as before once China will let its citizens leave the country again?

What is next for Bali’s tourism?

Little suggests that Bali’s tourism boom (Or better call it overtourism?) will come to an end. It is true, Bali is a traveler’s paradise. But the tourist officials have to take care that the Island of the Gods does not lose its magic. Tourism in Bali accounts for more than 60% of its economy (source: BBC News), which is not healthy.

The key would be to create a more resilient economy basing also on other sectors just as the agriculture or the art scene. As to the former, what would Bali be without its abundance of rice fields? From what I read and heard, there are lots of farmers who sell their land to investors as they do not earn enough from growing rice any more. It has to be feared that the rice terraces could turn into a stage set for the tourist industry only.

Furthermore, growth at any rate in terms of arrivals can no longer be the target for Bali’s tourism. Focus must be placed on other than continuing its unleashed mass tourism. Instead the industry has to move towards a qualitative approach. The aim here is promoting Bali as a destination for high-spending, long-stay (10 days and more) and independent travelers.

Best time to visit Bali

There are two seasons in Bali, the dry season (April to October) and the wet one (November to March). While you can expect hot temperatures throughout the year (26-29°C/79-84°F), sunnier days are more likely from April to October. Peak season on this island is in July and August, coinciding with European summer vacations. So, Bali sees most visitors in this period of time. Most travelers find that May, June and September are the best times, when the weather is favorable yet fewer crowds are around.

My husband and I stayed in Bali at various times of the year. Our first visit was in April where we encountered rainfall on two days (when being in the mountains). Our stays number two and three took place in the high season, once in August, the other time in July. Throughout our trips it was almost always dry and sunny. Our recent visit to the island was at the end of October and the beginning of November. Whereas it only rained once in the first week (the whole arrival day), there were late afternoon showers almost every day in our second week. And the rain brought quite a bunch of mosquitos too.

If I were free in my choice of revisiting Bali, I think I would opt for coming in the first half of June or the second half of September.

Walking in Bali

While you can climb volcanoes in Bali, it is not what I have in mind when it comes to walking here. Just one remark to the (serious) hiking. From what I read, Mount Batur might be suitable for the average trekker yet far from being an easy walk. As far as climbing Mount Agung is concerned, it is said to be very challenging. Only experienced trekker should dare to take on this activity.

For myself, I am more into walking or hiking for pleasure, with a low to medium exercise intensity. So, do not expect any advice regarding hardcore hiking in Bali. It is more about short fun walks here. And those are plentiful on this island, especially along its beautiful rice fields, which can be found simply everywhere.

Instead of offering concrete walking suggestions at this point (there will be in a post to come), I will inform about a great walking app. This helps you not only to find lots of walks but also the paths in the area where you are right now.

Which walking app to use for your Bali walks & hikes

On several occasions on my blog, I have already promoted the outdooractive app. It is easy to navigate, and you can also use it when you are offline. While you can check out possible trails when not being onsite, I find it easier to do so when you are already in the area, for example at your hotel. Then you open the map and list the available suggestions. In case you do not find a suitable one nearby, have a look at the paths next to you (the dotted lines). Once on your route, you can always check whether you head in the right direction (your position is marked on the map).

For walking recommendations in Bali, check out the ones in the outdooractive app. And as announced earlier, I will also suggest concrete walks by area in a future post.

Where to go in Bali for sights (& at the same time for staying in style)

When visiting Bali, you do not want to come here solely for sun, sea and sand. If you should be interested in laying on the beach and going for a swim in the ocean only, I personally could think of better places. However, it certainly can not hurt to spend a few days by the sea once you had your share of taking into the island’s sights.

In a first step, I will propose the regions in Bali to you that you should visit to get to know the “Real Bali”. As to specific upscale hotels in each area, I will go into them in a post to follow here on my blog. Yet I can assure you that there are accommodations for staying in style everywhere along the following itinerary. However, in certain parts they are not plentiful.

Bali itinerary

Bali’s south

I start with Bali’s most touristy area, the south, where you also find the best options for sun, sea and sand. In my view, it is the ideal place to end you trip as it is not only perfect for a few quiet days but also because you are close to the airport.

When it comes to where to go exactly as discerning traveler, I suggest that you should avoid Kuta at any costs. Evil tongues say that it is “the worst place on Bali”. And why is this? It is the island’s tourist mecca, especially for young backpackers and people who want to party to extremes. And it is not only crowded but also – from what I read – dirty and full of mediocre restaurants and shops.

As a traveler who likes to indulge in the finer things of life, I recommend instead one of the following spots.

Seminyak

The upscale beachfront resort of Seminyak north of Kuta and Legian outclasses its neighbors by featuring more high-end hotels and restaurants. A disadvantage here is that the traffic can get pretty crazy.

The beach here is suitable for swimming, albeit there are some waves. These may attract the beginner/intermediate surfer too.

Nusa Dua

This peninsula in southern Bali is known as a purpose-built enclave of prime hotels. While the gated government-sponsored compound of resort hotels is rather sterile, it is certainly a nice place to relax and unwind.

As to the beach here, it has white sand, and the water is great for swimming. However, at low tide you can walk as far as to the reef, which makes it rather a spot for beachcombers.

Sanur

This former fishing village on the southeastern coast has established itself as a vacation since the 1930s. And this long before the other beaches in Bali became famous. It caters mainly for travelers looking for midscale lodging. Notwithstanding that, I felt at ease here, liking the town’s laid-back vibe. At its heart, Sanur still remains the traditional Balinese village it used to be.

There are several beaches in town, from which Sanur Beach is the most central. They are all nice enough, and the water is calm.

Apart from these three seaside spots, there is one more catering for luxury travel, and this is the following one.

Jimbaran

I have not been here but from what I read it seems to be a good place for discerning travelers. It is said to have lots of options for high-end lodging and dining. The same shall be true for shopping opportunities. Plus, it is the fastest spot to reach from the airport, starting just south of the runway. And last but not least, it is supposed to be more on the relaxed side.

In terms of swimming, there are no big waves, so you do not encounter many surfers here.

After pointing out where to head for a few days in Bali by the beach, now to how to explore the original island, the “Real Bali”.

The “Real Bali”

To get the island’s real sense of place, you have to go further than its south, at least as far as Ubud. This small town in central Bali is the cultural and spiritual hotspot of the Island of the Gods. But for a complete picture, I consider it as necessary to visit other regions just as the north and the east too. This allows you to get to know an uncrowded Bali as well, because that is not the case for Ubud. As to the west, it is the least visited part of the island with no must-do sights. And there are no noteworthy options for staying in style here either.

So, where should you go in your search of Bali’s true magic? And remember, I will only indicate places that offer lodging for luxury travelers too. This excludes quite a few spots beforehand.

Ubud

No visit to Bali is complete without going to Ubud. Out of four stays on this island, my husband and I have been to Bali’s cultural center three times. And it never gets boring to do so. It is famous for its arts and crafts, and there are lots of galleries and artists’ workshops. Ubud is located among rice fields and steep ravines in the central foothills. You can reach it in about a hour by car from the airport.

There is definitely no lack of great high-end hotel in Ubud. Although some of them are not that close to Ubud’s center. If you want to dine at its excellent restaurants (a later blogpost will go into it) or even reach it by foot, I recommend not to opt for one that is more than 20 minutes or so by car away.

Bali’s north

My last overnight stay in Bali’s north dates back to 2014. But I have been told that not much has changed since then. At the time, we were in Lovina, that is a northwestern coastal town. From Ubud you need about two hours by car to reach it. Lovina is a low-key resort best known for its sunrise dolphin watching tours. Yet it features uncrowded (black sand) beaches too. And the water is calm here. And as you would not expect otherwise, hotel for staying in style here are scarce.

An alternative to Lovina might be Munduk, a relatively untouched paradise. I have not been here but read good things about it. It is circa 45 minutes inland from Lovina (one hour and 40 minutes by car from Ubud). It is a mountain village in the highlands of central Bali and supposed to be a heaven for nature lovers and waterfall chasers.

Bali’s east

When coming the first time to Bali in 2014, we  toured through the area without staying for the night. That was different in 2019 and on our recent stay, when we were here for four respectively six nights. And both times, we enjoyed very much this peaceful rural part of the island (my post about what do see and do here)! You get more than a taste of the traditional Bali here, and you are still able to escape the crowds. The best spot here to stay for the night is probably Candidasa. From the airport you get here in about one hour and 15 minutes.

For a great beach in the area, head 20 minutes by car from Candidasa towards west to Virgin Beach. Here you find a beautiful stretch of white sand, which is rare in Bali’s east. For divers, there is a good spot on the northeast coast in the old fishing villages of Amed and Tulamben (about one hour by car from Candidasa).

Overall/What is next?

This post focused on places in Bali with the “real island feeling” and where you find the necessary infrastructure for luxury travel too. Before doing so, I first went into some general information about the Islands of the Gods. This was about Bali as a tourism destination, the best travel time and how to proceed if you want to do walks here.

What to expect more in the context of Bali? After establishing where to go as demanding traveler on this island, I did two lists. On the one hand, I put together some of the best walks in all the spots I suggested (next blogpost). On the other hand, I made an overview on luxury hotels in these places (the blogpost after next). Finally, a last post about Bali will cover the best (casual) fine dining options in Bali’s spiritual heartland of Ubud.

Last date of stay: November 2022

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The post Findings on luxury travel in Bali after the 4th stay in 8 years first appeared on Swiss Traveler