A typical day as a Silver Galapagos guest

Overall

As we only had one week to explore these enchanted islands and as we wanted to have a comfortable trip, we opted for staying on a vessel, although not having been into cruising so far. But this is the only way to see many different places with several shore landings per day. When it came to the question whether to choose a small or a large boat, we went for the latter because of having more space available and the prospect of a quieter trip. As to what ship to opt for if seeking luxury, the Silver Galapagos is the best choice. No other ship cruising the area has that many amenities and that much open deck space. Although quite considerable cost are involved with it, we went for it. We are ready to spend money for luxury travel if we get value for money, and it was indeed the most luxurious way to explore the Galapagos Islands!

 

Before cruising the Galapagos Island, we visited Ecuador’s highlands. I highly recommend to this because of the abundance of natural and cultural sights to find there. Have a look at my posts what to see, where to stay and where to eaton a luxury stay in Ecuador’s Andean region.

 

On this 7-day journey aboard Silversea’s luxury ship Silver Galapagos we cruised the Galapagos Island and saw unique birds, plants, reptiles and animals that appear only here. Highlights included visiting one of the most volcanically active places on Earth, snorkeling and while doing this seeing penguins, sea lions, all sort of colorful tropical fish found nowhere else as well as seeing giant tortoises and the largest colony of marine iguanas. And the best is the animals do not go away when you approach. They do not have natural predators and are therefore fearless!

 

We embarked the Silver Galapagos at San Cristobal and after meeting the expedition team we set sail. Later on, we circumnavigated Kicker Rock, the remains of a lava cone. Frigatebirds accompanied our sail and swallow-tailed gulls could be seen.

 

Then snorkeling around Bartolome’s Pinnacle Rock was on to explore the fascinating water world. Some fellow passengers even encountered Galapagos penguins and sharks.

Finally, after the ship repositioned to Santiago Island, a Zodiac ride along the Caleta Bucanero allowed contemplating the beautiful landscape and sights of several species of boobies, green sea turtles, seals and marine iguanas.

 

In the afternoon after the repositioning of the ship to Fernandina Island, Punta Espinoza provided the chance to see major concentrations of marine iguanas. They were literally everywhere, you had to be careful not to step on them by accident! Also a flightless cormorant was seen in action, hopping from one rock to another. Also there were many sea lions on the beach, cuddling up with each other.

Day 4: Isabela (Caleta Tagus & Bahia Elisabeth)

Heading to Bahia Elisabeth in the afternoon by zodiac, we saw the tallest red mangrove trees in the Galapagos and observed green sea turtles, pelicans, herons and sea lions.

 

At Punta Cormorant, a walk brought us to a water lagoon where we found many flamingos. Some of them took off letting us see a beautiful black and pink pattern on their wings. The sun was setting at the time we started back to our ship.

When the ship relocated to Las Bachas, it was time for another nature walk and some leisure time at the beautiful white sandy beach.

 

After a visit of Los Gemelos, two crater-like sink holes in a forest of tall scalesia trees, we headed for El Chato Farm, a private property which gets visited by wild giant tortoises most of the year.

The afternoon was devoted to visiting the Fausto Llerena Breeding Center to see the iconic saddleback tortoises after which the islands were named and to pay a call to Lonesome George, the preserved body of the last known Pinta Island tortoise, who died in 2012 without leaving offspring. After some free time in the quiet town of Puerto Ayora, the largest one of the Galapagos Islands, we returned the last time by zodiac to our ship. Our journey was over, but the memories of this unique encounter would stay forever!

 

Have you been to Galapagos Islands? What have been your experiences?

Date of stay: May/June 2017

 

General

In the countryside, we mainly stayed at haciendas where all the meals were included in the rate (see my last post). Because of this, there was no need to look for restaurants in the rural area. I also have my doubts whether the search for places adequate for lovers of fine food would have been successful outside the main cities. In either way, Quito, Cuenca and Guayaquil have something to offer also for foodies. Here is my list of recommended restaurants in these urban areas.

 

4 high-end eateries in Quito, Cuenca & Guayaquil

Quito: Urko

I have to say at the outset that this was the absolute highlight of our culinary experiences during our stay in Ecuador but also one of the better ones we have had recently! Urko is in the new town about ten minutes by car from our hotel (J.W. Marriot) and is specialized in preparing Ecuadorian food using typical recipes but transforming them into modern times. On the ground floor, there is a casual eatery, upstairs a ten-course tasting menu is served for dinner only. My husband and I opted – of course – for the latter (Rutas – A trip around Ecuador) and ordered also the pairing drinks.

The restaurant’s interior is sleek and modernist. The staff are young, enthusiastic about their country and its food, knowledgeable and attentive.

We were catapulted to a veritable culinary journey through Ecuador’s regions, from the coast to the Andes, the Amazon and the Galapagos Islands. It truly was a memorable experience! All the courses were imaginative, immaculately prepared with attention to detail and full of taste. And imagine, the paired drinks were just as inventive. Of course, you got wine but also mint and sugar cane liquor (first course), fermented corn (second course) or chamomile gin tonic (ninth course).

Out of the ten courses, here are three highlights. As first course, a combination of salad, shrimps and mussels was served together with a mint and sugar cane liquor. An astounding but harmonious get together!

The fourth course was snapper prepared in four different ways served with test tubes containing four different cold coffees. The idea was to take a mouthful of snapper and then sample how the coffee tasted along with the fish. The result was that the coffee tasted quite different depending on how the snapper was prepared.

The ninth course was a perfect blend of cacao 90%, soursop (fruit) and salt, served with a chamomile gin tonic. It was an unbelievably tasty creation!

On balance, it was an unparalleled culinary experience and I loved every minute of it. If you are into modern cuisine, go there in any case, you will not be disappointed.

Quito: Zazu

Here contemporary cuisine with South American influences is served. Out of the relatively wide range of options my husband and I went for local specialties, newly interpreted by the chef.

A good starter was suckling pig taquitos. The tortillas filled with pork confit, guacamole, gruyere and chipotle aioli were carefully prepared and tasty.

I chose cazuela, a typical South American dish, as main course. Shrimps and bananas in quite a rich stock were served in a cooking pot. While I was impressed by the quality of the seafood, I found the rest not that exciting.

We shared the desert because the preceding courses were quite big. It was again a local dish, helado de paila, ice cream prepared tableside in a traditional brass pan. It was fun observing how it is done. Served with hazelnut crumble and merengue it made a good combination.

All in all, it was a nice experience dining in this stylish restaurant offering well-made western South American fusion food, although I cannot say that it was memorable.

Cuenca: Casa Alonso at Hotel Mansion Alcazar

The cuisine is upscale western, South American influenced. There is quite a choice, from all sorts of meat, fish, seafood to pasta. Prices are reasonable at least for dishes with local ingredients. Service is polite but discrete. Apart from the dishes ordered, we were also served an amuse bouche, a sorbet before the main course and friandises after dinner. Everything had been thought of to make the experience special.

Here are three highlights out of the dishes sampled, which were all well prepared, nicely presented and tasty. A delicate starter was the quinoa and crab timbale, a great combination, enriched with tomato, cucumber and avocado, accompanied by a passion fruit vinaigrette.

Another great dish was the steak Mansion Alcazar, a beef tenderloin in a mushroom sauce with mashed potatoes and vegetables.

Finally, my husband and I shared an excellent creme brulee trio consisting of following flavors: vanilla, passion fruit and guava. And imagine, we had this dessert on both evenings because it was so good!

Initially, we had not planned to dine twice in the same restaurant in Cuenca. But we changed plans after our first dinner which we enjoyed very much. And we would do it the same way again without hesitation!

Guyaquil: Le Gourmet at Hotel Oro Verde

French cuisine, inspired by South America, is served here. The menu is extensive and varied, local ingredients are combined with classical cuisine techniques. The place is a foodie’s heaven. Everything we had was perfectly prepared, elaborately arranged and blended magnificently. Above all, the food is good value, at least when prepared with local ingredients (imported ones  are much more expensive).

Out of the dishes we had you find three examples. First, an inventive starter, stone crab steam bun with saffron emulsion and Katsuobushi (dried, fermented and smoked tuna).

Second, a main course is pictured, a superb grilled Barramundi fish fillet with vanilla infused butter risotto, coconut and smoked pimento sauce.

To end the fulminant meal, all of us (we dined with friends) had preordered a soufflé. These are available in following flavors: Grand Marnier, vanilla, cream cheese and chocolate and are served with lemon vanilla ice cream. I opted for cream cheese and was delighted by the palatable dessert.

Le Gourmet is indeed a place for fine food lovers. An exquisite classical cuisine with a regional soul is featured here, and this in refined surroundings.

 

Overall

You are not at a loss as a fine food lover in Ecuador’s highlands. When having a look at my selection of recommended places for foodies, it can be noticed that two out of four can be found in luxury hotels. Not that I had not tried to find eateries offering gourmet food elsewhere but I was not successful at doing this.

Our trip to Ecuador included also a trip to the Galapagos Islands, and this on board of the Silver Galapagos. Come back and check out my posts about this exciting adventure!

What about you? Do you know a place in Quito, Cuenca and Guayaquil where fine food is served in a pleasant atmosphere?

Date of stay: May/June 2017

Due to the Spanish colonization there are quite a number of large estates (haciendas) in the countryside. As they often lost their original purpose, many have opened their doors as upscale boutique hotels. As a consequence, haciendas converted into small hotels can be found quite often in the rural area. As far as hotels in cities are concerned, there are also a number of establishments stemming from the colonial past.

1. North of Quito – Zuleta area near Otavalo: Hacienda Zuleta

This hotel located two hours north of Quito is an extensive colonial working farm that belongs to the family of a former president of Ecuador. There are 17 bedrooms that all come with their own fireplace. The rate includes all meals and non-alcoholic beverages. A great variety of activities are offered such as horseback riding, mountain biking, hiking and bird watching. There are even a cheese factory and a Condor Andes rehabilitation center on site.

The hotel complex is stunning, a hacienda straight out of a picture book. The wide range of activities is impressive. Food is good, simple but tasty. The hospitality is exemplary, we were taken care of in the best way imaginable. Everything on the property is immaculately kept and very tidy.

What you should know

The hotel’s location is beautiful but a bit remote (one hour from Otavalo). While our room (twin bedded, probably the least expensive category – booked through an agency) was nice, it lacked the wow effect, especially the bathroom was nothing special (very small, no storage area for toiletries, not heated).

2. Quito: JW Marriot Hotel

When looking for an upscale hotel in Quito, there is now way around the JW Marriot. It is a large, modern hotel and offers all what you expect of a Marriot, I would say even a bit more than this chain’s average property. It is centrally located in the new town. All the facilities were renovated recently. We stayed there as a part of our pre cruise package and upgraded to a higher room category (Executive Room with access to the executive lounge).

Our room was spacious and well appointed. The executive lounge offers a good breakfast and a wide array of snacks during the rest of the day. Every staff member we met was friendly and helpful.

What you should know

While the location in the new town is favorable because of its centrality, it is quite far away from the old town. Furthermore, the hotel is situated at a very busy intersection. An upgrade to the executive lounge is worth the extra charge, but be advised that only one alcoholic beverage per person and day is included.

3. Near Cotopaxi National Park: Hacienda San Agustin de Callo

If you longing for staying within ancient Inca walls, this is the place to go! The hacienda built on the site of an Inca palace is a real feast for the eyes. In the main house (Inca House) there are five rooms around a picturesque courtyard, all of them with fireplaces in bedrooms and bathrooms. Furthermore, there are an Inca chapel and a beautiful dining room with Inca walls. As in the sister hotel of Hacienda Zuleta all the meals are included in the rate.

The property filled with Inca history is absolutely gorgeous! I was very much in love with our room featuring an open fire in the bedroom and a wood burner in the bathroom, which by the way was lovely. The dinner we had at the hacienda was delicious and having it in such beautiful und historical surroundings was the cherry on the cake. Also a fun thing was it when an employee summoned the lamas to the courtyard where you could feed them.

What you should know

There is another building with rooms outside the property, which does not look equally charming as the main house, but I only saw it from the outside. What I noticed further were that many furniture items in the room and in the drawing room (public space) were a bit worn out. Staff is nice although not as accommodative and professional as in the sister hotel of Hacienda Zuleta.

4. Riobamba: Hacienda Abraspungo

This hacienda-style hotel in the outskirts of Riobamba has 38 rooms and is probably the best place in town when it comes to lodging. Having said that, this does not mean that it can meet the needs of demanding travelers. The choice of really good hotels in this conveniently located town near the Chimborazo Volcano is just not that wide.

The room we had was spacious and had a likewise bathroom which was renovated recently. The hotel grounds are nice, a walk in the garden would have been a good thing to do – sufficient time provided.

What you should know

Although the fireplace was lighted in the room – upon our request –, it was cool during the whole stay. In spite of a recent upgrading (bathroom), our room had a very dirty carpet. While the food in the hotel’s restaurant was solid, I very much disliked the dirty placemats they used on the tables. In short, it is a good enough place to stay and eat for one night, but not more than that.

5. Cuenca: Mansion Alcazar

If you want to spend the night in a colonial town palace, this is the accommodation for you! Here a typical Spanish mansion awaits you with a two-level central court (roofed). We had a look at different rooms here in the main house and also in the garden wing. Whereas the former are in a classic style but with modern comfort, the latter are more contemporarily furnished. Behind the main house there is a restaurant and a nicely landscaped garden. The hotel is favorably located in the old town in walking distance of most colonial buildings of Cuenca.

The two-level central court is a true eye-catcher, very well conserved with beautiful furniture. Service at the hotel is outstanding, everyone is eager to please you. Dinner and breakfast in the beautifully located and decorated restaurant are excellent (my next post will be about it).

What you should know

As mentioned, the rooms in the main house are around a roofed court and that comes with some disadvantages. All the rooms with two exceptions have only windows going to this court. This together with the non-existent air condition makes the rooms rather stuffy, at least the one we had on the ground floor (No. 105). My advice: opt in the main house for rooms No. 104 and 204 with additional windows going to the garden.

6. Guayaquil: Hotel Oro Verde

When you want to stay at a luxury hotel in the coastal city of Guayaquil, Hotel Oro Verde has to be on the shortlist. Although it has to be said that the choice of really good hotels here is somewhat limited. All the 236 rooms of this hotel located a bit above the city center were recently renovated and offer a good comfort. On site you find five restaurants and bars. We stayed there as part of our post cruise package and upgraded to a higher room category (Premium Floor Room with access to executive lounge).

I was in favor of our well appointed and nicely decorated room, which was large and also had a spacious bathroom. Service was kind and eager to help. I was impressed by the restaurant selection at Hotel Oro Verde, food wise they cater for every need that might come up. I was especially fond of our dinner at the restaurant Le Gourmet (my next post will go into it).

What you should know

The location above the city center cannot be called ideal, at least not for tourists. It is possible to walk to major sights but this needs some time. In addition, the neighborhood is rather charmless and I would not recommend walking around in the area at nighttime. Furthermore, I found the pool area a bit underwhelming. Finally, the executive lounge is not worth upgrading to (mostly unattended, only a few snacks and beverages available).

When it comes to hotels for a luxury stay in Ecuador’s highlands, chances are good to find them. While there is quite a choice in certain areas such as Quito and surroundings and Cuenca, upscale lodging is more difficult to find half way from Quito to Cuenca.

 

In the highland one travels north to south. I do not know the reason for this but every trip I looked at proceeds like that, maybe because most people fly into Quito, I do not know. Some start in Quito and then go southwards, other make a detour to Otavalo as we did or start even more in the north. Then you travel south along the Pan American Highway to explore the so-called Avenue of the Volcanoes. On either side you find massive, stand-alone volcanoes providing an amazing contrast to the lush greenery of the rest of the landscape. Wherever you are, you are never far away from a volcano. When leaving Quito, you pass Cotopaxi National Park, the quirky town of Baños (gateway to the Amazon Basin) and Chimborazo Nature Reserve to finally arrive in Cuenca, the last stop of the highlands. Afterwards, you travel further to Guayaquil.

 

 

After visiting the market, there is enough time for another activity. A trip to Cuicocha in combination with a short hiking tour is ideal for this purpose. This is a caldera and crater lake at the foot of Cotocachi Volcano. There is a trail along the edge of the crater rim. It is possible to hike all the way around the lake, but plan a full day for this. To get an impression it is sufficient to do a short hike from the visitor center and back. The trail is well maintained and gives you the opportunity to enjoy the special flora and fauna of the area.

On the way from Otavalo to Quito make a stop in the town of Cayambe at the rose plantation La Compania de Jesus/Rosadex (on appointment only). There is a beautiful estate house with an adjacent chapel where you can visit the gardens, the splendid building’s interior with ancient European furniture, the showroom with many rose varieties and also the nearby rose production.

 

Quito, the capital city of Ecuador at an elevation of 2,850 meters (about 10,000 ft) has an unbelievably beautiful historic inner city. It is the second most populous city (2.7 million) after Guayaquil and the first one that was declared a Cultural Heritage Site by UNESCO. Quito is said to have the largest, least-altered and best-preserved historic center in the Americas. Plan at least two days to explore the Spanish colonial heart of Quito. Conquistadors made it their artistic masterpiece in the New World with palaces, monasteries, cathedrals and plazas. Before you visit all these treasures, go (by taxi) to the El Panecillo, a large hill on top of the old town, to get an overview over the city and its enormous dimensions.

 

Baños at the foot of Tungurahua Volcano is a town which is considered as the gateway to the Amazon. It is quite a touristy place, there are many backpackers around as it is known as Ecuador’s adventure capital. It is recommended visiting due to the Pailon del Diablo, an impressive waterfall.

 

After returning to Riobamba and continuing further towards south you can enjoy a very scenic drive. Wherever you look, you can admire patchwork fields of crops that create fascinating patterns on the hillsides!

A last stop before coming to the city of Cuenca is scheduled at Ingapirca, an archaeological site. Here you can explore the remains of the most northerly fortress of the Incas.

 

As to activities, make a city tour by foot to see all the highlights of the old town and visit a factory where Panama Hats (they stem from here, not from Panama) are made. Half a day is usually enough for exploring the city. Use the other half day (preferably in the morning) to pay a visit to the nearby Cajas National Park. This is one of the most beautiful nature places of the country with more than 200 glacial lakes and many possibilities for hiking.

After having left behind la Sierra, you have now reached la Costa. Guayaquil is the largest city in Ecuador with around 3.5 million inhabitants. It is situated on the banks of the Guayas River, which flows in the Pacific Ocean, and it has the nation’s most important port. Although it is the commercial heart of Ecuador and does not have an old town in the proper sense (large parts of the city were destroyed by a major fire in 1896), it has some attractions to offer. Above all it has a great waterfront called Malecon which is gated, monitored by the police and stretches over 2.5 km with gardens, open-air restaurants, playgrounds etc. Then there are the picturesque neighborhoods of Las Penas and of Santa Ana with its colorful houses, which are both worthwhile going to (climb up 444 steps to the lighthouse).

 

While our main reason to come to Ecuador was cruising the Galapagos Island, we also put emphasis on seeing the highlands. And it was worthwhile coming there! We were amazed by the abundance of the natural wonders as well as the man-made attractions. No trip to Ecuador is complete without seeing la Sierra!

Date of stay: May/June 2017