When it comes to cities in the Veneto in northern Italy, you certainly know Venice. But here it is about another one, the nearby Vicenza. And I want to let you know regarding a great high-end lodging here, Hotel La Barchessa di Villa Pisani in its countryside. My husband and I came here because we longed to explore a beautiful yet not heavily touristed part of northern Italy. In recent years, we have traveled to other destinations in the area and often found them overrun by tourists. Think in this context of Merano (South Tyrol), Lake Garda or Alba (Piedmont). This time, we had the Euganean Hills Natural Park on our agenda. And we were lucky enough to find Hotel La Barchessa di Villa Pisani as our base for exploring the region. This luxury hotel is for sure one of the best options for staying in style near Vicenza.

As you might be interested in the vicinity of our Veneto hotel, I have listed some things to do here in my last post. This one was about the itinerary, which also included the northern Piedmont plus a side trip to southeastern Switzerland. In case you should be curious about Michelin fine-dining restaurants around Hotel La Barchessa di Villa Pisani, my next blogpost will cover this topic. But now to the accommodation itself.

Back story Hotel La Barchessa di Villa Pisani

This property, especially Villa Pisani, goes a long time back. The well-known Pisani family from Venice asked Andrea Palladio to build their countryside estate here near Lonigo in 1542. Later on, the Palladian architecture derived from the work of this Venetian architect. When constructing buildings, he revived and reinterpreted the principles of ancient Greek and Roman architecture. Villa Pisani, along with other Palladian villas in the Veneto, has been on the UNESCO World Heritage List since 1996.

In the early 2000s, the ownership of the Villa Pisani complex – which included La Barchessa, a rural service building – , passed from the Pisani heirs to Carlo Bonetti and Manuela Bedeschi. The two buildings underwent a long conservative restoration. While Villa Pisani became a museum, the 19th-century Barchessa was turned into a lodging. The hotel, opened in 2017, is for sure one of the best luxury accommodations around Vicenza. While the essence of the agricultural Barchessa was preserved, modern comfort made its entrance too. And the whole is enriched with contemporary art, a passion of Manuela Badeschi, the owner, who is a professional artist.

Location of the best luxury hotel in the Vicenza countryside

You are here in the Vicenza countryside, about half an hour by car from Vicenza.

Padua can be reached in a 50-minute-drive, Verona too. And if you want to go to Venice from Hotel La Barchessa di Villa Pisani, you can do this in a bit more than an hour by car. In case you yearn for nature experiences as my husband and I did, you are right here. The Euganean Hills Natural Park is half an hour by car away.

In addition, there are lots of beautiful villages in the lodging’s vicinity such as Montagnana or Soave.

As to La Barchessa di Villa Pisani’s immediate surroundings, it is in the green, surrounded by trees. And it is situated at the edge of the river Guà. There is a path along it where you can take a walk or a bike ride. We did not this on our stay, as it was way too hot (probably not much shade here). The hotel is located in Bagnolo, an unremarkable hamlet in the municipality of Lonigo.

Ambiance/Staff

When coming here, you are away from the hustle and bustle of the nearby cities. Everything is very relaxed and peaceful here. There is a large green park where you can go for a stroll. When doing this, there is no getting around Villa Pisani (see back story above). As hotel guest you can go inside and have a look around.

In contrast, outside visitors have to make a reservation for doing so. On the hotel grounds you also find a large swimming pool with lots of space around for resting on the sun loungers (shade available too).

As mentioned, history, art and contemporary amenities go hand-in-hand at La Barchessa di Villa Pisani. And everything is in perfect harmony. The warm and helpful staff suits the place. In terms of looks, the front of the building

is far less beautiful than its rear. While the former looks like some kind of monastery with small barred windows, the latter is very different. Here you find impressive colonnades that reach up to 16 meters/53 feet.

And not to forget, Hotel La Barchessa di Villa Pisani got a Michelin One Key award. This signifies that it offers a “very special stay” and is “a true gem with personality” assessed by the Michelin guide. This recognition certainly applies for one of the best Vicenza luxury hotels.

Rooms/Pricing at Hotel la Barchessa di Villa Pisani

Room categories

There are 15 rooms to choose from, all are renovated yet maintain their original form and allure. The entry-level accommodation is the Superior Room (25sqm). The next higher category is the Deluxe Room (35sqm), located on the second and top floor. Then there is a range of Junior Suites, measuring 40 to 50 sqm.

In addition, you find here wo suites. One is the Palladio Suite, located on the first floor of Villa Pisani. It features a living room, two bedrooms and a large kitchen. The other is Villino Suite, a small standalone house. It has a direct access to the pool, an outdoor area, a living room on the ground floor and an upstairs bedroom.

Pricing at the best luxury hotel in the Vicenza countryside

I checked out the room rates (best available with breakfast) at the beginning of August 2026 (high season), and this during the week. The Superior Room is available at 195€, the Deluxe Room at  250€. In case you opt for a Junior Suite, it costs 295€. As to the mentioned Palladio and Villino Suite, their pricing is not indicated. I assume that you have to make an inquiry to book them. You see, the rooms at La Barchessa di Villa Pisani are very affordable, in my opinion. That is probably because you are here not on the beaten tourist path.

Now to the accommodation my husband and I had, a Junior Suite.

Junior Suite

Our room was on the second floor facing the front. Due to the fact that there was only one small (barred) window, it was rather dark. But of course, we are here in a historic building. What I appreciated was the the size of the accommodation, it was spacious and comfortable. As we did not travel with children, we had not much use for the mezzanine, which had a sofa bed, a desk and a television. Plus, it was quite hot up there on our stay (during a heat wave).

Otherwise, the A/C was powerful. In terms of style, the Michelin guide described it as “two parts historical atmosphere to one part contemporary Italian design”, which I find accurate. The bathroom was okay, it could have been a bit more sizeable.

All in all, my husband and I felt well at ease in here. Apart from the room not being bright enough, there was nothing to fault. Maybe the two uncomfortable (sagging) chairs we had at the desks were a misfit. But that is it. For sure you get here enough luxury, although not necessarily state-of-the-art amenities, and this at a fabulous price that cannot be beat.

Facilities at La Barchessa di Villa Pisani

Besides the restaurant, into which I go further below, La Barchessa di Villa Pisani offers following services. In addition to the wonderful park and the large pool I already mentioned you find a gym, a sauna, a lobby bar,

a library with billiards and a large ballroom onsite. There is no extensive spa with a variety of treatments. If you value this, then you are here in the wrong place.

As far as breakfast is concerned, it is served in a huge room, which might function as a ballroom too.

Weather permitting, you can have it also in the outdoor area that faces the park. The offerings are good and varied. I especially liked the regional corner with produce from the surrounding area. And they had tasty sandwiches and pastries. Egg dishes were available too, to be ordered by the friendly staff.

Restaurant Osteria del Guà

The presence of a high-quality, Michelin listed restaurant was one reason for us to book a room at la Barchessa di Villa Pisani. Osteria del Guà is named after the river that flows nearby. The rustic-elegant dining room with exposed wooden beams and a fire place creates a warm atmosphere. As we only had dinner in the outdoor area – a lovely patio under arcades – ,

I cannot say anything about the experience of dining here.

With regard to food, Italian cuisine with a regional focus – a tribute to the property’s history – is available at Osteria del Guà.

Find the details how it was dining here in a separate post about best Michelin restaurants in the Vincenza countryside later on my blog.

Overall on the best luxury hotel in the Vicenza countryside

When traveling the Veneto, Venice’s hinterland in northern Italy, the selection of quality luxury hotels is small. That is especially so outside the cities. Thus, my husband and I were lucky enough to come across La Barchessa di Villa Pisani in the Vicenza countryside, a Michelin One Key property. This is not your “normal” lodging but a historic country villa with a service building. While the former, a Palladian-style building, is today a UNESCO World Heritage Site,

the latter was transformed into an upscale hotel with 15 rooms. Big efforts were made to reach a good mix between old and new.

Great assets here are also the beautiful rural setting along with a beautiful park and a Michelin listed restaurant. Come here if you like places with a historic aura yet nevertheless offer contemporary amenities. Do not expect a large spa at this hotel, but a large swimming pool is provided.

As to my Veneto reporting, my last post was about the trip’s itinerary which also went to the Piedmont and the Swiss southeast. Next on my blog, you find information on some of the best Michelin fine-dining restaurants in the Vicenza countryside.

Date of stay: July 2025

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When it came to planning a Menorca trip (hotel/restaurants), my husband and I decided to start it with a short stay in Madrid. We have never been there. Quite some years ago, we already thought about visiting Spain’s capital. However, when we noticed that you could not dine at the restaurants of our choice before 9pm, we abandoned the idea again. The good news here, this (prohibitive) start time has changed a bit to the better. As to our Madrid dining spots, we opted for Michelin Guide listed ones. While we were not looking for the best of the best (just as DiverXO), we wanted them to be good. And they should be near our lodging, which we chose for its proximity to major sights in town. Plus, we wished our hotel to be upscale – yet fairly priced. Hence, find in the following all the details to one of the best hotels and some top restaurants in Madrid.

Which luxury hotel to choose in Madrid

As my husband and I wanted to explore Madrid by foot, we had been looking for a centrally located high-end hotel. As some more known establishments in the heart of Spain’s capital came with rather hefty price tags, we widened our search on smaller lodgings. And when I discovered CoolRooms Palacio de Atocha, I found it to be the perfect choice for the two of us.

In this context I must point out that before we had booked another nearby hotel. That was Grand Hotel Inglés.

While I liked its style, I later found out that their restaurant, Lobbyto Snack Bar, did not get good reviews (also for the breakfast). So, we canceled our reservation in favor of CoolRooms Palacio de Atocha. And I felt good about this decision once we were in Madrid and walking by the hotel we had originally booked. This is because it it amidst the hustle and bustle of the city’s party scene, which is not for everyone.

But now to the accommodation we were, CoolRooms Palacio de Atocha.

Hotel CoolRooms Palacio de Atocha Madrid’s back story

The hotel used to be a palace at the time. It was built in 1852 and owned by Nemesio Sancha, a high official to the Overseas Ministry and knight of the Order of Charles III. Before becoming a hotel, it housed a hermitage and a convent. The property’s entrance is guarded by the figure of the god Hermes, and it actually is an old carriageway. Its 7-meter/23 feet-ceilings leads to a courtyard.

Hotel CoolRooms Palacio de Atocha opened in June 2021 after a thorough renovation done by Antana Arquitectura in collaboration with the interior design team of Proyecto Singular. Emphasis was placed on a harmonious blending of past and present.

CoolRooms Palacio de Atocha is part of a small hotel brand launched in 2018. The group compromises three properties, all of them are former palaces. Apart from Madrid, you find them in Seville and in Asturias (all in Spain). In addition, there are two in Portugal (Porto and Lisbon) that will open soon.

Location of CoolRooms Palacio de Atocha Madrid

CoolRooms Palacio de Atocha’s location in the Barrio de las Letras (Literary Quarter) is as convenient as it gets. This district used to be the home of many famous writers back in the Golden Age of Spanish Literature (e.g. Cervantes or Quevedo). Nowadays, it is a party mile with lots of bars and outdoor restaurants.

You are here close to many Madrid sights just as the Plaza Mayor

or the Prado Museum. And you are not in the midst of the activity and commotion of the party scene but on its edge. Precisely, CoolRooms Palacio de Atocha is on Calle Atocha (Atocha Street). It is here only single lane and therefore quieter than elsewhere in town.

Ambiance/Staff at CoolRooms Palacio de Atocha Madrid

Everything at CoolRooms Palacio de Atocha is intended to merge the best of classic and modern. The promise of the impressive high entrance where carriages used to enter is kept. You are here in an extraordinary place with a soul. I fell in love with the magnificent old stairwell, which was preserved in its original state.

It is no longer needed – as there is also a new one – , yet it is here as a tribute to history. Just by the entrance, there is also lovely, tiny courtyard for lingering.

And when traversing the property, you come to a bigger one. Here you discover a secluded pool garden, an oasis amidst Madrid’s flurry.

The staff suits the character of this house. The employees are cool and at the same time unassuming. All our concerns were met with professionalism, which made my husband and me feel valued as guests. And they were attentive too. On our last day, they provided us with a small fruit plate, a thank for our long stay.

Rooms at CoolRooms Palacio de Atocha Madrid

The hotel has a one Michelin key rating, which denotes the crème de la crème of the Michelin Guide lodging selection. And rightly so!  The rooms are among the largest you find in Madrid. They offer 34 accommodations between 34 and 110 sqm. All of them are designed to combine the finest of traditional and contemporary. The signature ones even have their own private terrace with a jacuzzi.

We opted for one of the six Suites, which offer lots of space (58 to 57 sqm).

Despite their size they did not cost the earth (742€ in the shoulder season), as I found. And how beautiful ours was! It was on the third floor facing the pool garden. The suite was kept in neutral colors and featured lots of details, which made it intimate and unique. Not only the open-plan living and bedroom was spacious but the bathroom to, which was gigantic!

I read that the rooms are highly soundproof, and I can confirm this.

Facilities at CoolRooms Palacio de Atocha Madrid

I mentioned it already, there is a small (plunge) pool and a bar (both indoors and outdoors). Furthermore, you find here Restaurant El Patio de Atocha with two areas, inside

and out. We have not dined here so I cannot comment. From what I read they consider themselves to be a fusion between a traditional restaurant and a modern bistro.

However, my husband and I had breakfast here. We had it in the outdoor area in some kind of a glasshouse. While we liked the (served) offerings, we had to bring some patience while doing so. This was especially the case when the place was busy. They have a strict regime here when it comes to the sequence of the breakfast (first the drink order, then the handing out of the menus and finally the food order).

If you should wish massage treatments, they do not have a spa but they provide this service in your guest room. And this should be no problem because the rooms are – as you know by now – vast. Plus, you can make use of a range of experiences just as a private fitness coach, yoga sessions or a photoshoot with a “Madrid Cool Photographer” (all for a fee).

In summary about one of the best hotels in Madrid

If you care for an intimate, high-end lodging Madrid experience at the best location possible, you cannot go wrong with Hotel CoolRooms Palacio de Atocha. This recently renovated historic palace is boutique, offering 34 oversized rooms, which I found stunning. And I considered them reasonably priced too. In addition, there is a pretty courtyard pool along a bar/glasshouse-style restaurant. The staff also does a great job, plus the breakfast is great – yet you need some time for it. In short, staying here leaves little else to be desired if you care for a luxury yet not overpriced Madrid accommodation.

After my report on one of the best hotels in Madrid now to some of the finest restaurants in town.

Where to go for great Michelin (starred) restaurants in Madrid’s heart

As I already let you know, we dined at Michelin (starred) restaurants on our Madrid stay. We wanted them to be superior yet not necessarily the crème de la crème of haute gastronomy. And they should be in walking distance from our hotel – CoolRooms Palacio de Atocha. Plus, we did not wish to break the bank for such dinners, and the ratings of the eateries had to be good. Finally, we liked the dining-spots to be more on the modern side. So, I can advise on four upscale restaurants in Madrid that I all can wholeheartedly endorse.

I start with the most upscale eatery and end with the most casual one in my list of some of the best restaurants in Madrid.

1. Restaurant CEBO Madrid

(1 star Michelin,  2 Soles Guía Repsol)

CEBO is located within Hotel Urban and run by two young chefs, Javier Sanz and Juan Sahuquillo. And they have been in charge since 2022. They prepare seemingly simple – yet deeply refined – creations made with delicious local produce. The setting is contemporary chic,

and the service was smooth. The staff recommended the smaller Classics Menu (160€) – there are two of them – , and this is what my husband and I ordered. All the dishes we got (11 of them) were great, many of them were finished at the table.

I especially adored the Smoked Sturgeon with Oscietea Caviar, yet everything was full of flavor. And the service was prompt, we were just in here for two hours.

2. Restaurant Kuoco Madrid

(Michelin listed, 1 Sol Guía Repsol)

When we arrived at Kuoco two minutes before opening time, the reception was a bit frosty. But Spaniards do love to dine late. And the ambiance quickly warmed up in this informal restaurant.

The chef here is a young Venezuelan, Rafa Bergamo,

and he does not know any limits. He effortlessly combines Asian, Latin and Spanish influences. You can order here from an à la carte menu, but I would opt for the menu instead (Atemporal, 89€), which is an intense journey across the globe. I loved every single dish we had (12 plates), yet my personal winner was the tuna that you could add to the menu on our evening.

After the initial twenty minutes where we just waited for everything to unfold, the dinner proceeded just perfectly. And if you are into wine pairings, the one here is terrific (48€).

3. Restaurant Trèsde Madrid 

(Michelin listed, Guía Repsol Recommended)

Trèsde, a laid-back dining spot in a French bistro-style,

is the project of three lifelong friends. They have revived the concept of a starter-main-dessert combo (46€) where you can make your choice out of three dishes in each section. Plus, you can add a snack (Oyster or Anchovy, 5€ each) to start your meal. You also have the option to insert a cheese selection. Since the eatery’s opening in 2023, you get here seasonal cuisine where vegetables have always played an important role. My husband and I opted for the tuna dish and an asparagus variation, followed by the Fish of the Day, turbot with broccoli. To close the meal, we had Pavlova and the Tartlet of the Day (chocolate).

The dinner was delightful, everything we had was to our liking. Service was very friendly and attentive.

4. Restaurant Ticuí Madrid

(Michelin listed, Guía Repsol Recommended)

Ticuí is the place for upscale Mexican cuisine, and this in a nicely decorated, contemporary setting. You can either reserve a table in some kind of a sun room (Comedor, not heated) or in the room where you find the open cuisine (Barra Omakase). We were seated in the latter at one of the regular tables; another option here is the long bar table.

On our late lunch we could choose from an à la carte menu with following sections: Raw Bar (16-24€), Clay Griddle (11-27€) or Kitchen (18-55€, most dishes are available as half or full portion). Alternatively, you could go for the Ticuí Experience (six courses for 75€, with wine pairing 110€).

While we were a bit unsure how much to order, we decided to make a selection – the dishes are meant to share. Afterwards, we asked the (friendly) staff whether the quantity is adequate, which was affirmed. We had the Tuna Tostado from the Raw Bar and the Rosarito Shrimp from the Clay Griddle to start. As mains we ordered half a portion each of the Grilled Fish (Sea Bass) and the Pibil-Style Suckling Pig, both from the Kitchen.

Although we had enough, it was rather a light lunch. If you should be very hungry, go at least for one full portion with the mains. Yet everything we had was really tasty! I especially liked the freshly made tortillas from the griddle.

To end the meal, a server rattled off a few desserts in Spanish only. We went for a creation made of corncake, tres leches and caramel ice cream, which was delicious.

Looking forward to my Menorca content

I have mentioned it, the Madrid city trip was the prelude to a (seven-day) Menorca stay.

While you might know Mallorca (see my content) or Ibiza, this Balearic Island is not as known as its “two other beautiful sisters”. Together with a fourth island (Formentera) they form an archipelago in the western Mediterranean Sea belonging to Spain. Find out in my two posts to come where to go in Menorca to stay and dine in style.

Date of stay: May 2025

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Tenerife is an ideal destination for those seeking warmer climes, and this year-round. So, when my husband and I had such a need end of March, we gave this largest Canary Island a try. To be honest, I was a bit sceptical about going because of the protests of the local population against the overtourism here. Yet, I had read that our chosen time is ideal because of fewer crowds. Thus, I had a little hope that it would not be too busy. But, it was not fulfilled. If you should be interested in how overtouristed Tenerife is, my previous post went into it. Here, it should be about which hotels to choose on the island  of Tenerife if you love to stay in luxury. You should opt for two of them. Find out why in the next section.

Tenerife’s north and south

Tenerife’s two sides

Tenerife has two different sides, the north and the south. While the latter is almost completely in the hands of tourists, this is less so in the former. As to the south, it is all about beaches. Here it is consistently warm (or hot in summer) all year round. In terms of vegetation, you mostly find dry grass only. And there are hot winds in some areas.

The island’s north in contrast is (always) a bit cooler, more humid and more verdant. While some parts are touristy too, others are less so. But all the tourist hotspots – which are mostly in the north – were (over)crowded on our stay. For details refer to my last post about Tenerife’s overtourism. Unfortunately, many of the beach vacationers in the south make the one or other visit to the popular sitghts too. Thus, travelers in the north have the island’s attractions not for their exclusive use.

Is one hotel in Tenerife’s south the preferred choice?

If you want to have a full experience of Tenerife, it is advisable to opt for two hotels. One should be in the north, the other in the south. In the case of my husband and me, we booked our Tenerife stay at short notice. And so all the boutique hotels in the north that seemed appealing to us were already fully booked. Thus, we went for a larger one, Hotel Hacienda del Conde Meliá Collection Golf & Spa in Buenavista del Norte.

As to the south, we were able to secure one of the last rooms in the lodging of our choice, Hotel Royal Hideaway Corales Beach – Adults Only in Caleta, part of Costa Adeje.

If you want to know more about where to stay in Tenerife’s south in general, my last post went into it.

In the following, I will give some more information about the two hotels we had in Tenerife. Quite the opposite to my usual reporting, I want to keep it short. After all, I am a bit uncomfortable about promoting an already overtouristed place.

2 of the best hotels in Tenerife if you look for luxury getaways

I start with the accommodation in the north – exactly northwest – before coming to the one in the south. In both cases, I begin with a few key points, then continue with what I liked and what I did not like so much.

1. Hotel Hacienda del Conde Meliá Collection Golf & Spa in Buenavista del Norte

I mentioned it, Hotel Hacienda del Conde Meliá Collection Golf & Spa was our choice of lodging for our stay in Tenerife’s north. It is located in the outskirts of Buenavista del Norte in the island’s northwest.

It was opened in 2010. Since 2016, it has been part of the Meliá hotel group (before Vincci Hotel). Hotel Hacienda del Conde has 117 rooms, all of them are at least 40 sqm in size. And it is for adults only.

What I liked at one of the best luxury hotels in Tenerife

a) Location

I was fond of the lodging’s location, nestled between the Teno Rural Park and the sea, only interrupted by the Buenavista golf course.

You are in walking distance not only from the ocean, but also from the pretty town of Buenavista del Norte. And there are quite some attractions nearby, be it Garachico, one of the most beautiful villages in Tenerife, or the lovely mountain hamlet of Masca.

b) Style/Layout

Hotel Hacienda del Conde’s premises are quite a sight. It is all about a luxurious homage to the colonial style, which you often find in Tenerife. Think of a traditional hacienda with lots of wooden elements, colonnades and courtyards.

Also, the accommodation boasts beautiful terraced gardens with secluded spots offering much personal space.

Two swimming pools complement the offer.

c) Fine dining: Restaurant Salazar

While my husband and I did not try neither the buffet restaurant Buena Vista nor Il Rosmarino (Italian cuisine), we went to their fine-dining place. It is about Restaurant Salazar where chef Aser Martin prepares excellent local cuisine, modernly interpreted. On our evening, the dining spot was not busy, most hotel guests seem to dine at the buffet spot.

What I did not like so much at the hotel

a) Golf course

Whereas I was in favour of the hotel’s setting, I could have done without the golf course (as you may have guessed, I do not golf). We had booked a sea view room, but the vista was hindered by a net that prevents the balls go astray.

And I mean no disrespect, but golfers might feel somewhat awkward to non-golfers. Yet of course we had known what to expect here, and it was a minor issue.

b) No updated guest rooms (in particular bathrooms)

I assumed at the time of booking our room that it had not been updated recently. While the bedroom was kept up quite well,

the bathroom looked a bit dated. It was clean, but it could use a little touch up in the decor. The good thing was that it was spacious enough.

The same is true for the bedroom, however the balcony was rather on the small side.

c) Some aspects of the breakfast

First to the positive points, there was ample choice, and the offerings were good. What bothered me was that the buffet sometimes looked a bit unkempt. Obviously, they did not pay attention to ensuring that the buffet was well maintained at all times. In addition, the tables in the buffet restaurants were packed tightly together, so you did not have much privacy when having breakfast.

d) Some service issues

While the staff was generally friendly and helpful, there were some points that did not suit the standards of a luxury hotel. First, on our stay the bar was only staffed with one employee. This person not only had to wait the tables but also was responsible for preparing the drinks. No wonder the cocktail menu was not overly exciting.

When it comes to servicing our room, we noticed that the bed linen had not been changed in four days. In addition, the bottle of drinking water in our room was not replaced once we had finished it. On the positive side, I have to mention that the hotel offered a small buffet in the lounge with snacks, tea/coffee and water in the afternoon.

To end this list, we found out that the entrance to the spa is not included in the room rate. When my husband wanted to use the indoor pool and the whirlpool on a cooler day, he was told that the fee was 25€ for these services.

2. Hotel Royal Hideaway Corales Beach – Adults Only in Caleta

This hotel in Tenerife’s south had caught my interest long before we seriously thought about booking a stay here. And this because of its distinctive look and its incredible range of gourmet restaurants. Hotel Royal Hideaway Corales Beach resembles an ocean liner from the exterior

and has three Michelin restaurants with four stars in total. As to its location, it is at the very western end of Costa Adeje just above the village of Caleta.

It was opened in 2018, has 121 rooms and occupies the western part of the building (the other is home to its sister hotel where children are allowed). And the rooms are large (55 sqm).

What I liked at the hotel

a) Upscale dining-spots

I have already hinted at it, this is the perfect hotel for fine-dining lovers just as my husband and I. We dined at all Michelin starred restaurants here (two-star El Rincón de Juan Carlos, one-star San Hô and one-star Il Bocconcino) plus at the Starfish Atlantic Grill (Repsol Recommended). And the meals were all great!

b) Hotel design

When it comes to the hotel’s design, I am torn whether to find it beautiful or not. But for sure, the building that has an ocean-liner façade is something special. Its futuristic style architecture designed by MKV Design London is impressive indeed. Having said that, you can consider it as a foreign body in the landscape too, throning above the former fishing village of Caleta.

 c) Location

My opinion is also divided when it comes to the lodging’s location. On the one hand, it towers above everything in the area. Fortunately, it does this without appearing like a high-rise. You are not directly at the beach, however not far from it. Once you leave the property, you cross a street and descend some stairs (or an accessible path) to a dark-grey pebble beach (no hotel services here). What I appreciate about this hotel’s setting is that you are not in the usual hustle and bustle of south Tenerife. This is because the fact that Costa Adeje ends here. If you want to continue along the coast, you need to go by foot.

d) Royal Breakfast

The breakfast here truly merits the label “Royal”, served in the buffet restaurant, Nao Atlantic Food Experience. It is one of the most lavish I have ever seen – and I have seen my part of them. The selection and the quality of foods were exceptional. Everything looked appealing on the buffet, at all times. Plus, you could order quite an assortment of dishes from a menu too. A nice touch was that the servers knew what coffee my husband wanted from day two – they must have noted it down. However, this was not true for my tea order – that was not in their concept.

What I did not like so much at one of best luxury hotels in Tenerife

a) Some room features

Our room was on the fourth floor, which came with the best views here.

Whereas I found it gorgeous from the design and the layout,

there were also some negative points. The most prominent was the open-space bathroom where you had not much privacy in the toilet in particular (a glass door, which did not completeley close). And it was freezing in here in the morning after we had cooled down the room for a good night’s sleep.

It was also troubling that you could not shade the terrace. That was a pity because it was such a great one! But the sun blazed on the terrace all afternoon, making it too hot to stay out for long.

And surprisingly enough, I noticed that the sister hotel, which looks very similar, had shades!

Last, the entrance door was not fitted correctly, resulting in noise from the cars driving by. Plus, one day when it was very windy, an unsettling draft moved through the room.

b) Construction flaws

Although the hotel was only opened in 2018, numerous building defects were obvious. I already mentioned the ill-fitting entrance doors to the guest rooms. Also, the locking system of these very doors did not work properly – we failed to open the door on the first attempt every time we tried. And the elevators were no great engineering achievements either (slow, hot, broken displays ecetera). I stop listing because I do not want to bore you.

c) Outdoor dining in not so good weather

It seems to be the ultimate thing at this hotel to dine outside also in not so good weather. With the exception of Restaurant El Rincón de Juan Carlos, where there is no outdoor area, we were nudged to dine alfresco or semi-alfresco everywhere we went. The negative climax was Restaurant Il Bocconcino, one Michelin star, where we were seated outside despite a chilly breeze. While we endured, annother couple, who arrived with us, did not stay long and asked to dine indoors. I later saw them sitting in the dining-room all alone.

My Tenerife content

I have mentioned it, I had been “ranting” about overtouristed Tenerife in my last post. And this one was about the two hotels we chose for our recent ten-day stay on this Canary Island. Both belong to the best luxury establishments you can find in Tenerife. There is one more blogpost to follow about this popular place. I will briefly go into the fine-dining outlets we went in both spots, around Buenavista del Norte and in Tenerife’s south.

Date of stay: March 2025

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When traveling the Peloponnese and using Athens’ airport, you cannot help but visiting Greece’s capital too. At least if you have not yet done it before, which was the case for my husband and me. So, we had scheduled a three-day city getaway in the capital after finishing our two-week journey in the southernmost part of the Greek mainland. After much time in the Greek countryside, we yearned the hustle of city life. Above all, we were looking forward to savoring one of the best hotels and some of the Michelin (starred) restaurants in Athens. While we had not eaten badly at all in the Peloponnese, we were more than ready for a change. We had booked three Michelin dining spots, one of them a starred one, close to where we were lodging. And this was at a newer luxury hotel opposite the Old Parliament. Find in the following all the details of our Athens stay.

Before delving into this topic, first a few lines to our Peloponnese trip.

14 days on the road in the Peloponnese in style

The Peloponnese Peninsula, just south-west of Athens, extends from Greece’s mainland like an outstretched hand. We traveled four of its fingers and its palm. A three-part mini-series goes into the different areas. The route is indicated on my Google Map below:

Part one of this series starts with an overview of the whole journey, followed by detailed reports. We began our round trip on its “Thumb” (around Nafplio, part one) before continuing to the “East Finger” (Monemvasia and surroundings, part two). Next was the “Middle Finger” (Mani, part two). Before heading to the “Peloponnese Palm” (Olympia and Arcadia, part three), we explored the “West Finger” (Messenia, part three). All the while, we tried to stay at upscale hotels and eat at fine-dining restaurants, which was not easy. First, they are not really plentiful. Second, our timing was not ideal (late October/early November). Many establishments had already closed for the season. Yet, we managed properly enough. I also included some information about what to do everywhere we were in my reporting.

But now to the capital, where staying and dining in style most probably is never an issue. When looking for lodging and dining in Athens, we had a luxury hotel and Michelin (starred) restaurants in mind. They should be among the best in town yet worth the money spent on them. Find all the corresponding details hereafter – but nothing about things to do in Greece’s capital – such information is already abundant on the internet.

Which luxury hotel to choose in Athens

As my husband and I wanted to explore Athens by foot, we had been looking for a centrally located upscale hotel. As some more known establishments in the heart of Greece’s capital came with rather hefty price tags, we widened our search on smaller lodgings. And when I discovered Hotel Xenodocheio Milos, I found it to be the perfect choice for the two of us. Read on to learn why.

Hotel Xenodocheio Milos Athens’ back story

The hotel is named for chef Costas Spiliadis’s restaurants called Estiatorio Milos found in over ten locations all over the world. He has made a name for himself for his refined yet unpretentious approach to Greek cuisine, offering fresh Mediterranean fish and seafood.

With his first hotel carrying the Milos brand name he also entered the hotel industry. And he chose a similar way as with his restaurants, meaning to create a lodging that is upscale yet understated. With his first hotel project he wants to hold up the mottos of “philoxenia” (“friend to a stranger”) and to “xenodocheio” (“make a stranger feel at home”).

Location of Xenodocheio Milos Athens, one of the best hotels in town

In my view, Hotel Xenodocheio Milos in the Commercial Triangle of Athens could not be more perfectly located! It is situated in the heart of downtown Athens opposite the Old Parliament House. Very close by you find the central Syntagma Square, the National Gardens and the city’s chicest shopping street. Many popular neighbourhoods are in its immediate proximity: Plaka, one of Athens’ oldest,

Psyrri, the creative center, or the glitzy Kolonaki. Plus, there is an abundance of fine restaurants nearby. And the Acropolis is easily accessible from Hotel Xenodocheio Milos, though not exactly next door.

Ambiance/Staff

The building that has housed Xenodocheio Milos since January 2022 embodies the grandeur of Athens’ history. It is a stunning neo-classical building, established in 1880. In 1979, the Greek Ministry of Culture even proclaimed it as “designated landmark building”.

Yet also the interiors are persuasive. It spans over five floors and private balconies. On the ground floor, Restaurant Estiatorio Milos with a bar

take up the most space. It really is a dream of white marble, light-colored wood and smooth leather. And it comes with a nod to the nautical world (some kind of fishing nets on the ceiling).

There is little room left for the reception area, which is staffed by very accommodating and helpful employees. Service was provided with the signature warmth that we experienced throughout the hotel.

Rooms at Xenodocheio Milos Athens

Out of the 42 rooms at Xenodocheio Milos we chose the Executive Junior Suite (42-46sqm, 542€ with breakfast). While some rooms of other categories have views of the Old Parliament Hill, this is not so for the Executive Junior Suites. They are in the corner of the hotel overlooking an arcade and some rather ugly office buildings. Our accommodation was spacious and elongated with only one not so big window, which made it a bit dark. Yet it is a historical building, still I wish that the lighting system had been better (some lamps are connected).

Otherwise, we were fond of our room, which was sleek and minimalist. Design wise, I especially liked the headboard and the desk, which were curvy. From what understand, they echoes the movement of the wind through inflated sails, another nautical nod. The room features a rather large table, so in-room dining would have been a good option. The bathroom was spacious and with white marble finishes.

We had booked the room with breakfast that was served in the above mentioned Restaurant Estiatorio Milos on the ground floor. We liked what we got, tasty Greek yoghurt with granola, a fruit and a cheese platter, a bread and pastry basket and local honey. The one thing  I found slightly disappointing was that we had exactly the same offerings – to the type of the pastry – on three consecutive days.

Facilities

I already mentioned the dining spot onsite several times, Restaurant Estiatorio Milos, serving upscale Greek seafood. My husband and I did not dine here, we only had breakfast. There were three reasons for this. First, we had enough of such food on our Peloponnese trip prior to the Athens stay. Second, dining at this restaurant comes with a high price tag. And third, it does not appear in the Michelin guide.

As to other facilities at Hotel Xenodocheio Milos, they are limited. You find here a small wellness and fitness suite. Yet who needs more when being on a city trip?

In summary about one of the best hotels in Athens

I cannot imagine that there is a much better choice than Hotel Xenodocheio Milos in Athens when it comes to staying in style with an eye for value for money at the best possible location in town. And the building which houses the lodging is a historical gem. Its interiors come in minimalist decor with lots of white marble finishes both in the restaurant and the guest room’s bathrooms. Our room (Executive Junior Suite) was stylish and spacious, yet a bit on the dark side (only one window). Staff was always gracious and keen to help. The (seafood) restaurant onsite, Estiatorio Milos, is showy – much more than the reception. Yet you have to know that it is Costas Spiliadis’s baby, who has over ten dining spots of the same name all over the world. As to Hotel Xenodocheio Milos, it is his first foray into the hotel industry!

Dining in style in Athens

I mentioned it before, we dined at three Michelin (starred) restaurants on our Athens stay. As always when there is a huge selection of foodie spots to chose from, my husband and I opt for such ones that meet following criteria: among the best restaurants yet not costing the earth, near to our hotel, more on the modern side and getting good reviews.

1. Restaurant Mercerie (Michelin listed)

This relaxed yet chic dining spot is in the most beautiful pedestrian road that I came across in three days of exploring Athens! It is about Iraklidon Street, the beating heart of the Thissio neighborhood. The setting is perfect for an enjoyable meal either in the stylish outdoor area or in the interiors, which are nearly identical.

Mercerie is helmed by two female chefs – Melina Chomata and Maria Ntioudi -, with year-long experience at luxury hotels in Santorini. They perform in an open kitchen, allowing diners to watch the chefs at work.

On offer at Mercerie is international cuisine, sometimes more classy, other times more contemporary, yet often also with a Greek touch. You can choose among an à la carte menu, where you also find a “Raw”-section, and a 7-course tasting menu (on our visit 65€, now 70€). My husband and I opted for the latter, and we were delighted by what we got, which was equally fresh, light, creative, varied and tasty.

Service was pleasant and competent. The only negative point was that they only had paper napkins, what did not suit the character of this establishment.

2. Restaurant Nolan (Michelin Bib Gourmand)

Without being aware of it, Nolan was in its final stages as it was known on our dinner in November 2024. This was the last month of Sotiris Kontizas’ time at this casual fine dining outlet, which is in close proximity to the Syntagma Square.

The chef has Greek Japanese roots and served refined Greek-Asian fusion dishes at Nolan, meant to share,

and this as from 2016. From what I read this dining spot gained popularity very fast among Athens foodies. I can understand that well – other than the excellent food, the rates were reasonable, and the service was very good. While the news of the chef having left is a pity, it is not the end of Nolan.

The eatery’s website states that the collaboration with Sotiris Kontizas, also known as judge on Greek MasterChef, is finished. Since December 2024, Nolan has been aspiring to become a platform for experimentation, and this for talented chefs. At the same time, basic principles will be left unchanged. The start made Michalis Nourloglou, who seems to be experienced professional. Let us hope that Nolan 2.0 can build on the success of its previous achievements.

3. Restaurant CTC Urban Gastronomy (one Michelin starred), one of the best restaurants in Athens

CTC Urban Gastronomy, established 2015, moved some years ago into the up and coming neighborhood of Kerameikos, known for its vibrant nightlife. Chef Alexandros Tsiotinis did so because this opened up the possibility of setting up an outdoor area. And a wonderful urban garden has been created.

Soon after the move, the new place got a Michelin star. And the restaurants is also on the 50Best Discovery List by the World’s 50 Best Restaurants.

On offer here is modern Greek cuisine over 11 courses – called CTC Voyage, priced at 105€ -,

served in a contemporary setting. Everything we got was creative, delicious and memorable. A signature dish here is the octopus-shaped fava bean pannacotta glazed with octopus jelly.

Staff was courteous and competent. Dining at CTC Urban Gastronomy was definitely the highlight of all the meals we had on this Greece trip.

Before coming to an end of my Greece reporting, here are some more culinary tips for “connoisseurs” visiting Athens.

3 more culinary tips for Athens

Without much additional information, here are three addresses in Athens’ Commercial Triangle for people appreciating the finer things in life. It is about a bar, a patisserie and and an ice-cream parlor. As to the first mentioned one, I recommend Baba au Rum, a casual bar with creative drinks, nice staff and good music. This pleasant place even made it to The World’s 50 Best Bars list. When it comes to patisserie, maybe try out The Zillers Pastry Bar. While the place lacks organization, the pastries are delicious. And Georgios Platinos, working at one-star Michelin restaurant The Zillers, is responsible for them.

And last but not least, Oggi Athens features divine Italian ice-cream.

Looking back to a Peloponnese 14-day road trip & an Athens 3-day stay in style

In this very post (part four), it was all about an ideally situated luxury hotels in Greece’s capital and three great Michelin (starred) restaurants in close proximity. Part one to three concentrated on the main focus of the journey that my husband and I undertook in late October/early November 2024. And this was to the “Peloponnese Hand”, called like this because of the form of this southernmost part of mainland Greece. Part one was about an overview and the “Thumb” (Nafplio and surroundings). Part two showcased the “East Finger” (Monemvasia etcetera) and the “Middle Finger” (Mani). Finally, part three finally went into the “West Finger” (Messenia) and the “Palm” (Olympia and the mountainous Arcadia). Throughout my Peloponnese reporting, I informed about what to do in the respective places and where to go for upscale hotels and restaurants.

Date of visit: November 2024

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This is part three of a voyage on the “Peloponnese Hand”. Let your left hand sink and then you have a map of Greece mainland’s southernmost area! I already went into the “Thumb” (around Nafplio, part one), the “East Finger” (around Monemvasia, part two) and the “Middle Finger” (Mani, part two). Now it is about the “Peloponnese West Finger” and the “Palm” (Olympia and Arcadia in the central Peloponnese). As in the past Peloponnese posts, I start some important sights including walking/hiking tips before informing about where to go for the best hotels and (fine-dining) restaurants in the area. Before doing so, find below the itinerary of the whole trip, and this in the form of my Google Map. Then the before mentioned region will come into focus.

Hence, here is my Google Map of a 14-day road trip in the Peloponnese and a short stay in Athens. I did this journey with my husband, and it took place end of October and in the first half of November 2024.

My next and last post in this context (part four) will highlight Athens, Greece’s capital. While this city is not part of the Peloponnese, it is nearby. As to Athens, I will only cover our stay at a luxury hotel and our three dinners at Michelin (starred) restaurants. When it comes to what to do in Greece’s capital, the internet is full of such information (so you will not need my input neither). If you should be interested in some general information about coming to the Peloponnese in fall, check out the first part of my mini-series. Now finally to the region in question, the “Peloponnese West Finger” and the “Hand’s Palm” (Olympia and Arcadia). First to what to do here before going into the best hotels and restaurants in this Peloponnese area.

From place to place in the Peloponnese, part III, “Peloponnese West Finger & Palm”

1. “Peloponnese West Finger”

We had been looking in vain for an upscale hotel in the southern part of the “Peloponnese West Finger” that was still open at the beginning of November. So, we had settled for a lodging a bit more in the north. And this was Costa Navarino, a planned collection of high-end hotels and residences. On our way to this destination, we made a halt in the medieval ruins of Mystras. It is known as “The Wonder of Morea”, the medieval term for the Peloponnese. And it is a UNESCO World Heritage site too.

About the “Peloponnese West Finger”

As we only had one full day to explore Messinia, the “West Finger”, we limited ourselves to its west coast, south of Costa Navarino. From what I understand, there is more to discover, for example Ancient Messini, the Polylimnio Waterfalls or the town of Koroni in the Finger’s southeast.

As to the Messenian west coast, you should check out its probably most beautiful beach, the Voidokilia Beach. If you want to combine walking/hiking with beach bliss, why not drive to the Sykia Beach Passage. From here you can hike up to the Paleokastro Navarino Castle ruins. This place is said to have the best view of the above mentioned beach. And you can also hike down to it afterwards. We did not do this walk as the weather was not kind to us.

A possible next stop towards south is Pylos, the former Navarino,

a pleasant port town in the Navarino Bay.

Further south, you get to Methoni. Here you find a large and mighty castle, which might be worth visiting (we were too late to do so). The town of Methoni is quite cute. If you seek a walk in the area, my husband and I did one (from the castle to a church and back through town). Here is the link to this walk.

Our hotel: The Westin Resort Costa Navarino

I have briefly mentioned it above, my husband and I opted for a lodging of the Costa Navarino hotel and residence collection. This is actually a planned settlement, some kind of “hotel city”. You find here five accommodations with about 1,256 rooms, about 145 residences, 3 spas, 4 18-hole golf courses and over 40 restaurants. The founder is Vassilis C. Constantakopoulos (established in 2010), an extremely wealthy ship owner (about 58 ships). The whole facility is huge, it covers 1,000 hectares/2,471 acres! And it is divided into four parts (Navarino Dunes, Bay, Hills and Blue).

We had settled for The Westin Resort, as it was the only one that was open on the time of our booking. Upon arrival, we noticed that also The Romanos would have been an option (both part of Navarino Dunes). Anyway, although I liked the latter better (great bar, Anax Lounge), staying at the former was not a bad thing at all. Having said that, we do not like such large complexes in general. But, as mentioned, there were no luxury hotel alternatives in the area.

Out of the many room categories (445 rooms in total), we went for a Superior Infinity Room (49sqm, daily rate of 505€ with breakfast). It comes with a private pool, garden view and a spacious sitting area.

We felt well at ease here, and there was nothing to complain about. The breakfast buffet was vast and well-assorted. If you like it quiet and small but nice, then it is not your thing. When we walked around in the Navarino Dunes, we regularly got lost. The whole is complicated and confusing. Plus, we only stayed two nights, not enough to get accustomed to. Staff was alright so far, as you would expect it from such an establishment. And the setting by the sea is nice.

Our restaurants: Armyra at Costa Navarino & Notre Maison Gialova

Not that many restaurants were open at the beginning of November, both at Costa Navarino and outside this hotel complex. Out of the bookable eateries at Costa Navarino we opted for Armyra by Papaioannou. This is a seafood spot overseen by Giorgos Papaioannou who gained some celebrity in the area with his family’s fish restaurant in Piraeus, a port town within the Athens urban area. It was opened in 2015 and this on the grounds of Hotel The Romanos. And I am unsure whether you can book it if you do not stay at Costa Navarino (when booking we had to indicate our hotel reservation number).

Armyra is a casual fine dining spot where you take your meals al fresco only. On offer is primarily fresh fish and seafood, locally sourced. The setting is pleasant

and the staff is friendly and professional. As to the food, everything we had – among other a Garnished Crab Salad and Crayfish Pappardelle –

was very good. Yet the menu is expensive.

The latter does not apply to the other dining-spot we were in nearby Gialova. It is about Notre Maison, a family-led establishment on a seaside promenade. While the setting is rather simple

– often the case in Greece -, the food was quite good.

On offer is Greek cuisine with a modern touch here and there. The fish dishes we had were both well made and tasty. And we got free cheese and cake to start and end the meal! Staff is nice and knows its job.

2. “Peloponnese Palm”: Olympia & Arcadia

En route to Arcadia, the mountainous region in Peloponnese’s center, you absolutely should drive via Olympia, although it is a detour. The cradle of the Olympic Games is another UNESCO World Heritage Site. And it is the most significant sanctuary in Greece, dedicated to godfather Zeus. Must-do things here are the Archaeological Museum of Olympia (to view how it was at the time) and Ancient Olympia (to see what is left from this time).

The onward drive to Vytina in the highlands of Arcadia was not one of my favorite. While the mountainous landscape is picturesque, the roads are small and sloping. If you want to bypass them, maybe you should consider visiting Olympia before as a day trip from the “Peloponnese West Finger”. In such a way, you can get to Arcadia from the Peloponnese west coast via Megalopoli and Tripoli.

About Arcadia

My husband and I long had thought about whether we should go to Arcadia or not. We were late in the year (first half of November) to go to the mountainside, and we had feared that it would be cold there. While it was chilly in the morning, it became quite warm and pleasant during the day. And it was a great place to visit with its verdant forests, untouched villages and remote monasteries. Plus, there is the Menalon Trail, a long-distance hiking trail, where you can walk a portion of it. The best thing about this 75km/47mi-long 5-day trail is that you pass the most beautiful sights while walking it.

When it comes to things to do here, visit the mountain villages of Dimitsana, Stemnitsa

or Vytina. Then do not miss the Prodromos Monastery,

which can reached by a short walk (1.7km/1.1 mi in total, 30 minutes out and back, 190m/623ft altitude gain). Here is the link to it (one way only). Note that it is closed between 1 and 5pm, as most monasteries in the area. This walk is part of the first section of the Menalon Trail, leading from Stemnitsa to Dimitsana.

We did another sub-section of the Menalon Trail, No 4 from Elati to Vytina, starting from Highway E074. Find here the link to it. This hike follows the old mule track to Vytina along the Mylaon river and it is a rewarding thing to do.

Our hotel: Hotel Manna Arcadia

This five-star hotel in the enchanting virgin fir forests of Arcadia, opened 2023, is a true gem! It is housed in a former sanatorium, built in the late 1920s in the neoclassical style by a Swiss architect. After being abandoned for eight decades it was reborn in a nine-year renovation. The beautiful stone exteriors have been left as they were, yet the interiors are almost all new. The light-colored surfaces and wooden decor foster a serene ambiance, which suits the surrounding nature.

Out of the 32 rooms we opted for the Junior Suite (38 to 42sqm, 677€ per night with breakfast). It was a wonderful accommodation with a generous sitting area – however with one armchair only, we had to ask for one more -, a spacious bath and an oversized balcony.

Onsite you find a restaurant – see next section -, a bar

and a “wellness hub” – as they call it – with sauna, hammam, “cave” pool and fitness classes. Plus, they offer a (payable) activity program. Staff is friendly, accommodative and helpful.

Our restaurants: The Manna Restaurant at Hotel Manna & Taverna Vasilikos Arcadia

My husband and I dined twice at The Manna Restaurant at our hotel, which is overseen by chef Athinagoras Kostakos. He is one of the most well-known chefs in Greece with a big number of culinary projects all over the world. And he also was the winner of Top Chef, the Greek version of this reality TV series. The restaurant’s setting is nice

with an additional spacious outdoor area. The breakfast is fine with a buffet featuring lots of regional specialities and an à la carte menu for hot dishes.

As to dinner, you find modernised Greek food on the quite expansive menu. While dining here is costly, you can get away less expensive too. We enjoyed our meals, although it was not exactly gourmet fare. I very much liked the Welcome Treat with Bread & Dip. Also starters just as the Aubergine Salad or the Tomato Balls were good choices. For mains, we twice had dishes to share, once the Slow Cooked Lamb Shoulder and the other time a Half Grilled Chicken. Both were made in the charcoal oven and perfectly adequate.

The ice cream however was nothing special. Service wise there is nothing to complain about, we felt well looked after.

One night we headed to the nearby town of Valtesiniko to Taverna Vasilikos. Whereas this eatery is quite a looker,

at least for Greek standards, it is not so different from your typical Greek tavern in kind of ambiance. On request of our friendly server, we selected a table for the two of us. Our choice fell on one near the fireplace because it was freezing cold in here. Once settled, he covered the table with a paper tablecloth without much ado. At least, this was now a hygienic affair! From the extensive menu we chose five starters/salads to share. All were excellent, be it the Beetroot Salad or the Grilled Vegetable with Cheese.

As there were no desserts available, we left it at that. And we got away very inexpensively (42€).

Looking forward and back to road trip in the Peloponnese in style (Part I, II & IV)

This was the last part of three in total about a Peloponnese journey undertaken in late October/early November by my husband and me. We traveled the “Peloponnese Hand”, starting with the “Thumb” (Nafplio/Argolis, part I), continuing with the “East Finger” (around Monemvasia, part II) and the “Middle Finger” (Mani, part II) before ending in this post with the “West Finger” (Messenia, part III) and the “Palm” (Olympia/Arcadia, part III). In this mini-series I informed about what to and where to go for the best hotels and (fine-dining) restaurants everywhere we went in the Peloponnese.

While we value staying and dining in style on our travels, this was a difficult thing to realize in this southernmost part of mainland Greece. That was due to two reasons. On the one hand, Greek people do not seem to be much into fine dining in the countryside. On the other hand, it was a matter of (bad) timing, as many establishments had already closed for the season. We tried to make the best of it, and it came out quite well, I must say!

There is one more blogpost to follow in my reporting in this regard. It is about a short stay in Athens, which was the end point of this voyage.

While Athens does not make part of the Peloponnese, it is close by, so it is a very manageable thing to do. Find out about where to go in Greece’s capital for a luxury hotel in the best location – so I think – and three of the many Michelin (starred) restaurants nearby.

Date of stay: November 2024

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Now it is about two more “Fingers of the Peloponnese Hand”! In this context you have to be aware of the fact that this most southern part of mainland Greece is like a left hand directed downwards. In the paragraphs to be followed I go into the “East/Monemvasia Finger” and the “Middle/Mani Finger”. The “Peloponnese Hand” is where my husband and I went end of October last year. Traveling this Greek region steeped in history was a rewarding thing to do! And tourists at this time of the year were not plentiful. Find details of the whole trip in the next paragraph. After this, I will let you know what to do plus where to go for best hotels and (fine-dining) restaurants in the mentioned “Fingers”.

Before elaboration further, there is again my Google Map of our Peloponnese and Athens itinerary. It comes with all the upscale lodging we stayed and the (fine-dining) spots we ate.

Peloponnese & Athens in style, the itinerary overview

My travel report is split in four parts. My last post – part one – went into the trip outline, some general information and the first “Peloponnese Finger”, the “Thumb”. The latter is the region of Argolis with the town of Nafplio. Part two is the present one with the “East or Index Finger” and the “Mani or Middle Finger”. Region wise it concerns Laconia first of all. As to part three, the focus is on the “West or the Ring Finger”, the Messenia region, plus Olympia and the mountainous Arcadia region. And part four is about Athens.

While my husband and I did a road trip in the Peloponnese (part one to three), we were stationary in Athens. Throughout my reporting, you will learn about where to go for the best upscale hotels and restaurants. No easy thing in the Peloponnese I can tell you! However, in Athens, it went smoothly. Furthermore, I will let you know about some major sights everywhere we went (part one to three). In addition, you will also find some walking/hiking suggestions, as we like to explore the area on foot (part one to three).

From place to place in the Peloponnese, part II, “Peloponnese East & Mani Fingers”

1. “Peloponnese East Finger”

A good base on the “Peloponnese East Finger” is Monemvasia, a dramatic place just off the coast. When driving here from Nafplio, we did a stop in Tyros, a small, charming seaside town. It is great for a short walk along the beautiful pebbled beach. And Café Zorbas is good for a drink.

About the “Peloponnese East Finger”

Monemvasia

The absolute highlight on this “Finger” is Monemvasia, without any doubt. Nothing prepares you for the sight of this (almost) inhabited rock rising out of the sea. It is often compared to the Rock of Gibraltar, although it is only a fraction of its size. Yet it is still just as dramatic. Locals call this place “The Castle”, but it actually is a stunning fortified town. This medieval place comes with castle walls (lower town) and a fortress on the top (upper town). While the former is well-kept,

the latter is mostly in ruins, expect the Church of Hagia Sophia.

It is well worth climbing up to the upper town, not only to see the ruins but also for the views of the sea and the town of Gefira.

Find here the link to a hike leading around the rock and through both the upper and lower town. Recommended places for small bites in the area are Emvasis Café in the lower town and  Bakery Angelakos, south of Gefira.

Further activity “Peloponnese East Finger”

We did one more activity on the “Peloponnese East Finger”, and this was a walk/hike in its very south. It starts in a remote fishing village

leading along the beautiful coast. Nearby is also the Geopark of Agios Nikolaos, a petrified forest. While we did not have time to visit this attraction, it might be worth doing.

When being in the area and longing for fine pastry, head to Laconia’s capital, Neapoli Vion. Here you find several establishments offering such treats. My husband and I opted for this place and very much liked what we got!

Our hotel: Kinsterna Monemvasia, one of the best hotels on the Peloponnese East Finger

Hotel Kinsterna is the only five-star accommodation far and wide. That is not all, it really is a dreamy property! This fort-like manor is perched up high on the hillside a short stretch down the coast from the Monemvasia Castle. It has origins dating back to the mid 17th century. When the current owners purchased the estate in 2002, it was in bad shape. Since 2006, it underwent renovations and reopened in 2010, restored to its former glory.

Out of the 52 rooms, my husband and I opted for a Premium Residence. These rooms offer much space (35-42sqm)

and come with a large terrace

as well as a marble bathroom.

Ours had a view of the gardens, which was nice. As to the decor, it was a lovely mix of traditional and modern elements. The one thing that we did not like so much was that the room was a bit dark. The daily rate amounted to 452€ with breakfast.

In terms of restaurants, there are two onsite. It is about the all-day Mouries and the Linos Tavern, which is only open seasonally (on certain days). We had dinner at the former once, but we did not return as the experience disappointed (mediocre food, inconsistent service). However, breakfast was a different affair with lots of choice and pleasant staff.

Otherwise, the facilities at Kinsterna are great. You find here two pools and an extensive activity program. And the staff was generally friendly and well trained.

Our restaurant: Athivoli Monemvasia, one of the best restaurants on the Peloponnese East Finger

As we were not in favor of the restaurant at our hotel (see above), we dined elsewhere. And Athivoli,

a tavern on the coast south of the Monemvasia Castle, turned out to be a hit! On two occasions, it persuaded with well-made Greek cuisine that came with a modern twist now and then. I very much liked the starters just as fried local cheese (8€) or roasted aubergine (7€). Also the spinach salad was a good choice (10€). When it came to mains, we did not try out the meat dishes, but only had fish and seafood (15 to 18€). Yet these dishes were made with quality ingredients and immaculately prepared. And they were accompanied by original sides. The two desserts we had, Ekmek Kataifi (6€) and Lemon Pie(7€), were equally fine.

As to the setting, it was the most cultivated ambiance we encountered in a Greek tavern during our 17-day stay in this country. And the service was friendly and accommodating. We even got a gratis after-dinner liqueur on our second visit!

2. “Peloponnese Mani Finger”

On the transfer from the “East Finger” (Monemvasia) to Aeropoli and surroundings – where you find the most lodging options – , it makes sense to stop in Gythio, a picturesque coastal town. It is the capital of the so-called Lower Mani. If you have a sweet tooth, this patisserie makes heavenly pastries!

And also have a look at the Dimitrios Shipwreck on Valtaki Beach.

About the “Peloponnese Mani Finger”

Why Mani deserves a special mention

The “Mani Finger” is definitively something special! Whereas in other parts of the Peloponnese you find lovely landscapes with olive-studded hills and villages of golden stone, this is different in the Inner Mani (south of Areopoli). Both the land and people are austere. Stark, treeless mountain, stone fields and stone towers shape the landscape. Mani is home to the Maniots, known as fierce warriors, who used to fight seemingly endlessly about water and land. They built stone houses with castle-like towers, and this often in almost inaccessible hillsides.

It was not until the 1970s, when the national government reduced the local autonomy in Mani. From then on, new roads were constructed to bind all the towns to civilization. While this was the start to touristic development, mass tourism has not (yet) reached this part of the Peloponnese – and hopefully never will! For me, Mani is the most beautiful part we encountered here. It is different, wild, harsh, sometimes dismissive, but also authentic, relaxed and friendly.

What to do in (Inner) Mani

Touring the Mani villages

The unique combination of rugged landscapes, small villages with ancient tower houses (called pyrgospita) and remote, narrow beaches has its unique appeal. A good idea to get an impression of the Inner Mani is to go on a car tour. Here is a suggestion for a half- to full-day trip: Pirgos Dirou (Diros Caves) – Charouda (Temple of Taxiarchis) – Drialos (Church Agios Georgios) – Mezapos (Chalikia Beach) – Kato Gardenitsa (Church Naos tou Sotira) – Gerolimenas (beautiful coastal town, Restaurant Veludo, KaSeas Boutique Hotel) –

Vathia (tower houses) – Marmari Beach – Porto Kagio – Kokinogia (one-hour walk to Cape Tainaron Lighthouse) – drive back along the Mani east coast (towns with imposing tower houses: Lagia, Exo Nimfio and Flomochori / beach stops: Kokala Beach, Kontronas Beach).

Other things to do in Mani

We did not the above mentioned walk to Cape Tainaron but instead chose the one to Tigani Castle more northwest. And this was a rewarding thing to do! This estate in ruins sits on a spectacular peninsula that looks like a frying pan, which is actually its name in Greek. You have stunning views all the time, and you can roam around the ruins of a medieval fortress. Historians have varying opinions about this place (if it is the mysterious Grand Magne or something different). Anyway, it is fun exploring it a bit. Here is the link to this walk/hike, starting from the village of Agias Kiriakis. On your return, you could also do a detour to Church Panagia Agitria (maybe add another 50 minutes for walking).

Instead of making the above side trip, we shortly visited the village of Mezapos with its Chalikia Beach (see also above chapter). We had viewed it from Agios Kiriakis and wanted to see it up close. And we had two more places on our agenda which you should not miss on your Mani trip, Aeropoli

and Limeni.

he former is Mani’s capital and has a nice old town with its characteristic tower houses. Not far from it you find the port of Limeni, more a hamlet around an idyllic cove.

Our hotel: Aria Estate Mani, one of the best hotels on the Peloponnese Mani Finger

For quite some time we struggled to find a hotel to stay in style in the Inner Mani. As we were here at the beginning of November, many lodgings had already closed down for the season. Finally, we were fortunate to happen across Hotel Aria Estate! It is remotely situated on a hillside facing the sea, about 8 minutes by car either from Aeropoli and Limeni. What a gorgeous property it is! I was excited from the beginning when driving down the driveway.

And my enthusiasm lasted until our departure three nights later!

First of all, I adored the hotel’s fantastic setting and its tranquil vibe. Then I was fond of its layout and construction, an array of stone houses made in the typical Maniot architecture. It was built in 2018 and has 15 rooms. We opted for the top one-bedroom accommodation, the One Bedroom Superior Seaview Jacuzzi (48sqm, 340€ with breakfast per night). It is a dreamy place! It consists of a bedroom, a living room with a wet bar, a balcony and a terrace with a jacuzzi.

What a great thing to experience the sunset from here! I also liked the interiors, which are airy and all kept in bright colors. While the bathroom is not overly big, it was okay for the two of us.

The female hotel manager seemed to have a firm hand on the estate. She was always present to guide the staff (not all had a good command of English) and to take care of the guests. On site you also find two pools – one outdoor,

the other in the spa.

And there is a restaurant, more about it below.

Our restaurant: Horizon at Hotel Aria Estate Mani (Instagram), one of the best restaurants on the Peloponnese Mani Finger

It was impossible to find a similarly good dining spot as Restaurant Horizon at our hotel (see above) in the area. At least that was true at the beginning of November when some spots had already closed for the season. We dined here three times and found it to be one of the better eateries we had on our Peloponnese stay. And the (à la carte) breakfast at Horizon was definitely the best we experienced on our Greece journey (including Athens)!

On offer here is high-quality Mediterranean fare with a creative twist, here and there with a focus on local food. The dinner menu features starters just as sea bass carpaccio (15€) or local cheese croquettes (14€) and two salads (12€). For mains think of a regional chicken dish (18€) or shrimps with local pasta (20€). Desserts include their take of Bougatsa, a Greek custard pie, (10€) or more international choices just a chocolate mousse with ice cream (12€). When dining here three times in a row, there was enough variation in choices to prevent repetition.

The setting at Restaurant Horizon is nice with white linen-covered tables in the evening. Al fresco dining would have be an option on our stay, but we found it too chilly outside. And on one or two evenings, it also was quite cool inside as they let the entrance door as well as the terrace door open. Yet Horizon is not an exception in this regard, Greek people seem to love draughty restaurants … Staff was friendly and helpful but not always experienced, which however was not a major issue.

Looking forward and back to road trip in the Peloponnese in style (Part I, III & IV)

I started in the last post with an overview of the whole 17-day Peloponnese and Athens journey. In addition, i informed about some things to know when coming to this southernmost region of Greece, especially in fall. Plus, I began with part one of four in total, the “Peloponnese Thumb”, that is Nafplio and the Argolis region. As in all parts, I advised on some major sights including suggestions for walks/hikes. And as my husband and I look out for the best high-end hotels and restaurants everywhere we go, this topic is always covered in my reporting. Here in this very post, it was about the “Peloponnese East Finger” around Monemvasia and the “Peloponnese Middle or Mani Finger”. Part three will focus on the “Peloponnese West Finger” (Messenia)

and the mountain region of Arcadia.

Part four finally will go into a city-stay in Athens.

Date of stay: November 2024

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The post 14 days on the road in the Peloponnese/Greece and a short stay in Athens in style – PART II “East & Mani Fingers” first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post 14 days on the road in the Peloponnese/Greece and a short stay in Athens in style – PART II “East & Mani Fingers” appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

Seeking sun and warmth in Europe late October, my husband and I headed to the Peloponnese. We wanted to spend a fortnight in this most southern part of mainland Greece, followed by a three-day stay in Athens. Imagine it was our first visit to Greece ever. So far, we had thought it to be too touristy. Yet word had reached us that the Peloponnese with its wealth of historic treasures was not so, at least in fall. Thus, we set out to discover this piece of land. And it did not disappoint! While it was not always easy to find opportunities to stay and dine in style here, we managed somehow. Find out in my posts to come about our itinerary, what to do and where to go for best upscale hotels and restaurants in the Peloponnese. Of course, Athens is also part of my reporting – no problems here if you are looking to treat yourself! After outlining the whole trip in this post, I start with part one, the “Peloponnese Thumb”.

Before delving into the topic, first a few lines about the Peloponnese as a travel destination. And what to expect when vacationing here in fall.

Peloponnese as a travel destination

The southernmost region of Greece, less than an hour from Athens, is known for many things. It features not only untamed nature, pristine beaches and remarkable mountain peaks and villages, but also has an exceptionally rich history and culture. Think in this context of great archaeological sites just as Olympia or Epidaurus dating back to the ancient Greeks. Yet there is more, Greece also experienced the Byzantine era or a Venetian interlude. And it endured long periods of Ottoman rule too. All this thousands of years of civilisation left behind remnants in the Peloponnese ready to be explored!

Main sights: “Fingers & Palm of the Peloponnese Hand”

Funnily enough, we all have a map of the Peloponnese. Just point your left hand to the ground, and there you have it. Your “Thumb” is Argolis with the beautiful town of Nafplio and Epidaurus. As to your “Index or East Finger”, it is where you find Monemvasia, a fortress town. Your “Middle Finger” is the Mani peninsula with its typical town houses and rugged nature. And your “Ring or West Finger” is the fertile Messenia with Kalamata, one of the bigger towns in the Peloponnese. As far as your small finger is concerned, it is beyond my knowledge where this is supposed to be. Finally, in your “Palm” lie Olympia, Sparta or Mystras, all historical sites, and the mountainous region of Arcadia.

When & how long to go to the Peloponnese

In terms of best travel time for the Peloponnese, April to June as well as September and October are good months. It is too hot in July and August, and high summer is the busiest season too. My husband and I went in the last days of October until mid November. The latter month is said to be often unstable weatherwise and is gradually getting worse. And I can confirm this. The first days were the warmest. The nights increasingly became colder, and the winds intensified. However, it was almost always sunny and warm enough in day time.

If you want to go to the Peloponnese in late fall, I suggest that you better chose the last two weeks in October. That comes with the additional benefit of more hotels still being open. And I find a fortnight the ideal period to explore Peloponnese’s main sights (the southern two thirds of the peninsula: “Fingers & Palm of the Peloponnese Hand”).

14 days on the road in the Peloponnese & 3 days (stationary) in Athens

Here is my Google Map of our Peloponnese and Athens itinerary complete with all the upscale hotels and (fine-dining) restaurants we were.

As to the Peloponnese part, it is about the best lodging we found and that was still open (many hotels close down for the season end of October). In terms of dining spots in the Peloponnese, you have to be aware that there is not much around that merits the name “fine dining” outside of cities and high-end hotels. So, I have included the best restaurants we encountered offering an overall good enough experience, especially food wise.

My husband and I flew into Athens, picked up a rental car and drove to our first destination, Nafplio (three nights). In case you only want to explore the Peloponnese without a (stationary) stay in Athens, there is also the option to fly into Kalamata (“West Finger”). After discovering “the Peloponnese Thumb” we drove on to Monemvasia, on the “Index or East Finger” (three nights). Next was the “Middle Finger” with the Mani peninsula (three nights). Our last stay by the Mediterranean coast was in Messenia, the “Peloponnese Ring or West Finger” (two nights) before heading inland. And this was to the mountainous Arcadia (three nights). When doing this we travelled via Olympia to get an impression of this extraordinary historic site.

Our last drive was from the Menalon highlands to the airport where we returned our car and grabbed a taxi to get to Athen’s downtown for a three-day city stay.

What is next in my Peloponnese & Athens reporting?

Now to some information about the individual stops on our Peloponnese itinerary. This includes a couple of sights and walking suggestions.  And you get details about where we stayed and dined, and this in style whenever possible. As to Athens, I only go into our luxury hotel and the three fine-dining restaurants we dined at. As there is quite a lot of material, I need to break my reporting down in four parts. I start in this blogpost with part one that covers the “Peloponnese Thumb” (what to do and best hotels/restaurants). The next one will be about the “Index or East Finger” and the “Middle or Mani Finger”. As to part three, I will go into the “Ring or West Finger” and Arcadia. And finally, in one more post I will address Athens.

From place to place in the Peloponnese itinerary, part I, “Peloponnese Thumb”

Nafplio & Argolis

Here it is about one of the most worth seeing towns in the Peloponnese, Nafplio. Yet also the surrounding area, the Argolis peninsula, has much to offer.

About the “Peloponnese Thumb”

On your way from the Athens airport to Nafplio, where you absolutely should stay because of its beauty, you can make a stop in Corinth. If you have half an hour to spare, take a quick look at the impressive Corinth Canal. In case you have more time, why not visit the ancient Corinth (we did not).

As to Nafplio, this first capital of the modern Greek state is a true gem! I have read that it is like a bigger version of the Plaka in Athens (old town), only more beautiful. And there is some truth in it. Think of gorgeous cobbled streets, a wealth of Venetian architecture or charming squares of every size. In its core you find the Syntagma Square,

which is not only vast and striking yet even paved in marble. Furthermore, there are three forts, from which you should visit the Palamidi Fortress

in particular. Plus, there is a great hike leading via the Palamidi Path

to Nafplio’s south, and this until the path comes to an end. Here is the link to the track on Outdooractive.

A must-do sight in Nafplio’s surround is the Epidaurus amphitheater, one of the best-preserved of Greece’s ancient sites, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. If you do a half-day trip, you can also visit a second such site, either Mycenae or Ancient Nemea. We opted for the lesser visited latter, which you could combine with a wine tasting in the area (we did not).

Our hotel: Navria Nafplio

When it comes to the best hotels in the “Peloponnese Thumb”, we did not look further than Nafplio. As this town is considered as its jewel, we absolutely wanted to stay here. There is the one or other luxury hotel in and around town, yet we did not think about choosing one of them. Either they do not get good reviews or are not in the historic old town. So, we opted for one of the many favourably rated boutique accommodations in town. In our case, it was Hotel Navria located on a small and relatively quiet square in the old town.

Right across the square there is its sister hotel, Aetoma, which also seems to be a good choice for demanding travelers. The lovely breakfast by the way, is available at Navria for both accommodations. And the two of them are only steps away from the bustling town center.

While Navria has modern interiors, its exteriors incorporate elements from the long gone by Ottoman period. As to rooms, six different ones are at your disposal. While many of them sound favourable, we went for the Suite. It features a balcony and a generous layout.

The bathroom is not big, but cleverly constructed with a pleasant walk-in shower and ample storage space.

Staff is extremely friendly and helpful, we felt very at ease here. And it was the least expensive room of our whole trip, it only cost us 165€ per night (with breakfast).

Our restaurants: Wild Duck, Valaora & Thyme, all in Nafplio

You have to know that Nafplio has lots of touristy restaurants, which are mostly traditional Greek taverns. Yet there are also some places which come close to what one understands under fine dining. This is especially true for Valaora, which is an upscale restaurant in a beautiful setting by the sea.

Also the service and the majority of our dishes, international food with a twist, were convincing.

When it came to our mains however, neither the Moussaka nor the Rooster Tortellini, both modern takes on the original receipts, were big throws. With the former, the aubergine was hardly recognizable and the meat subpar. As to the latter, the pasta dough was far too thick. And the prices were stiff compared to other restaurants in the area.

As to the second dining spot, Wild Duck served good contemporary creations

in pleasant surroundings.

Whereas I found the pricing okay, this was not so in terms of staff. When we showed up at the dining spot, they wanted to seat us outside, although we had a reservation – they did not ask about our preferences when we made it – and it was chilly. After lots of hesitation, they finally let us have seats inside.

Our third choice, Thyme, was the only one that was not in the town center but in Nafplio’s outskirts. We were nicely welcomed by the son, while his father is responsible for the kitchen. And the chef knows his job! There is only a small menu of European dishes with a contemporary touch, but everything we had was immaculately prepared and delicious.

Plus, it was good value for money. As to the ambiance, it was enjoyable with a modern flair.

Looking forth to road trip in the Peloponnese in style (part II to part IV)

After outlining a 14-day road trip itinerary in the Peloponnese and a three-day short stay in Athens, I went into part one of the voyage. That was about the “Peloponnese Thumb”, first of all the town of Nafplio (what to do and best hotels/restaurants). You have to know in this context that you have this southernmost piece of mainland Greece on your left hand. The next blogpost will be about two more of the “Peloponnese Fingers”. This is the “Index or East Finger” with the Monemvasia fortress

and the “Middle or Mani Finger”, which is a wild, rugged region. Part three covers the “Ring or West Finger”, Messenia, and the mountainous area of Arcadia, the “Peloponnese Palm”. Last, I inform about a city trip to Athens.

As far as the visit to Greece’s capital is concerned, my reporting will solely be about the luxury hotel we stayed and the three Michelin (starred) fine-dining restaurants we went. Regarding the others, I will let you know where to go for staying and dining in style (not always easy to find) but also what to do in the respective places. As my husband and I are avid walkers, I will provide some walking/hiking suggestions too.

Date of stay: November 2024

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Finally we come to the last part of a North and Central France trip done in late summer 2024. This is the France west-east crossing from the Brittany – which was the actual focus and part two – back to Switzerland where my husband and I live. We did so by taking the route via Cognac, the Dordogne and the Cantal. As to part one, that was about our way from home to Brittany, which led over the Champagne and the Normandy, and where I gave an outline of the whole journey. My reporting includes the itinerary with some of the most important things to do everywhere we went plus the one or other walking suggestion. Furthermore, I let you know where to head for best (luxury) hotels and (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants, here in this post it is about Cognac, the Dordogne and the Cantal.

Before I come to these three places, find in the following again my Google Map with our North and Central France itinerary plus all our (luxury) hotels and the (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants en route:

From place to place in North and Central France, part III, Cognac, Dordogne & Cantal

1. Cognac north of Bordeaux

About Cognac

The town of Cognac in the Charente Departement is about two hours by car north of Bordeaux. It is famous for one of the world’s best-known type of brandy. To label a spirit Cognac, it must be from a certain area and strictly made according to regulations (double-distilled). A bit like in the Champagne, you can visit the “Grande Marque” Cognac houses to view the process and to taste it.

Otherwise, in my view Cognac does not have much to offer in kind of attractions. The location on the Charente river is nice but that is it.

I found the town and even its historic center not that special. Yet it makes a great stopover for luxury traveler as you can find here two of the best luxury hotels in the area, Hotel Chais Monnet & Spa and Hotel La Nauve. While the former is in town, the latter is in Cognac’s surroundings.

Our hotel: La Nauve Cognac

My husband and I opted for the newer one of the mentioned luxury hotels, La Nauve, opened in summer 2023. And that was a great decision! It is idyllically located in a former Cognac distillery and mansion a few minutes by car from Cognac. What a beauty La Nauve is!

It is wonderfully restored with the finest materials.

Though, I considered it as impractical in many aspects, especially as far our room was concerned (Prestige Room, 33-38 sqm, No. 10, 696€ per night with breakfast, out of 12 in total). Without going in details, it was adorable from its looks, and there was a huge outdoor area too.

The breakfast was fantastic, served in the library (on inadequate chairs for the occasion).

Staff was faultless, and there are two great restaurants onsite (see below). You find here also a large garden, a bar and an outdoor pool.

Our restaurants: both at Hotel La Nauve in Cognac

We did not venture out of the hotel as I thought that both in-house dining spots made a good impression. And I was right so, both belong to the best restaurants you can find in Cognac! First I come to the casual bistro and then to the elegant gourmet dining spot, both led by chef Anthony Carballo. And pastry chef (Simon Souchaud) is a genius, I adored his varying brioches!

a) Brasserie des Flâneurs Cognac

This was one of the few restaurants on our journey through France that was not Michelin listed (although it would have deserved the award). It is situated in an annexe – that used to be the estate’s distillery – and has a modern, casual vibe.

Staff was unobtrusive but friendly. And the place seems to draw quite a number of locals. They serve modern international food, expertly prepared. Prices are at a medium level (starters from 16 to 19€, mains from 25 to 30€ and desserts around 10€).

b) Notes, gourmet restaurant, Cognac

The Michelin listed Notes is quite different from the above eatery. It is a refined dining establishment in an intimate part of the main manor.

You can make your choice between two tasting menus, one with four and the other with seven courses. I found them adequately priced, fitting the upscale setting at La Nauve (on our evening 80 and 120€). The ambiance is sophisticated and the staff, especially the head server, was top notch on our dinner. And the food – modern French cuisine – was sublime, in my view even worthy a Michelin star.

2. The Dordogne aka the Périgord

About the Dordogne/Périgord

The Dordogne department ist often called by its old name, the Périgord. The former is clearly a territorial designation (the river Dordogne). The Périgord is a historical name, it dates back to Roman times and represented the old province at the time. Yet both stand for a lovely landscape full of medieval castles, prehistoric caves and fortified villages.

The main town is Périgueux, boasting a charming old town with 2,000 years of history.

Then there are lots of villages that are part of the Les plus Beaux Villages de France (the most beautiful villages in France). Quite a few are around Sarlat, in the Black Périgord, the most popular part for visitors. I name here La Roque Gageac,

Beynac et Cazenac, Castelnaud la Chapelle or Dome. Plus, you find in the Dordogne also Jardins Remarquables (remarkable gardens), one of the more popular is Jardin du Manor d’Eyrignac.

While everything is very nice to look at, it is also quite busy (many large groups of bus tourists). To avoid the crowds, we did a nice walk/hike from La Roque Gageac to the Castelnaud La Chapelle Castle along the Dordogne, here is the link to the track on Outdooractive.

Our hotel: Domaine de Rochebois in Vitrac

Upfront I have to mention that we found it hard to select an accommodation to stay in style in the Dordogne. In search of best hotels here, you are somewhat lost. Really good luxury lodging is a rarity in this area. And our choice after much consideration turned out to be suboptimal. While Domaine de Rochebois is a beautiful property, it feels somewhat neglected.

From what I read, the hotel experienced quite some changes (opened in 1993, reopened in 2022 after a closure of 10 years, sold in 2024). On our stay, the restaurant and the golf course were closed. The room we had (Junior Suite Prestige, No. 212, 50 sqm, 514€ per night with breakfast, 40 rooms in total) had been updated not so long ago but already felt a bit dated. The same was true for the outdoor area (mossy cushions).

Staff was friendly, and the breakfast was okay. Onsite, you also find an outdoor pool and a spa. There is a bar too, yet it felt dreary.

Our restaurants: Ô Moulin in Carsac-Aillac & O’Plaisir des Sens in La Roque Gageac

If you are looking for best restaurants in the Dordogne, specifically in the so called Black Périgord, there is no way around the following two establishments.

a) Ô Moulin in Carsac-Aillac

We were much in favor of this small restaurant with a Michelin Bib Gourmand, opened in 2018. It is idyllically located in a former water-powered sawmill. The attentive lady of the house – Cécile Guérin – welcomed us and ushered us in the contemporary, casual dining room.

Her partner, Nicolas Aujoux, celebrates a modern French cuisine and occasionally also served plates on our dinner. You can choose among there tasting menus (3/3/6 courses 42/57/82€) and also dine à la carte, what we did. We had a fabulous duo of duck liver and turbot fillet, also the desserts were persuasive.

And the host even exchanged a few sentences with us, which was nice.

b) O’Plaisir des Sens in La Roque Gageac

At O’Plaisir des Sens, Bruno (chef) and Lydia Marien (host) have been at work here since 2015. The chef’s cooking expertise is evident, the restaurant is Michelin listed. His cuisine is classic, although with a modern twist. As far as the dining spot’s appearance is concerned, it is somewhat eclectic.

And the service on our dinner was down to earth, at times not quite seamless, e.g. when the host served cheese from the trolley. Plus, the business is a family affair, on our visit a daughter helped out in the service. Food wise, you have several options. Either you can choose one of three tasting menus (3/4/4 courses at 48/69/85€) or dine à la carte. We had the “the golden middle-menu”, which was fine, although a bit awkwardly composed (white beans with bacon, a delicious duck liver, sweetbread and a peach dessert).

3. Cantal, Auvergne/Aubrac Plateau

About Cantal, Auvergne/Aubrac Plateau

The Cantal mountain range respectively the Aubrac plateau are not necessarily places you know as foreign travelers. My husband and I ended up here because we had been looking for a stopover on our way from the Dordogne back to Switzerland. And imagine, we enjoyed here not only the culinary highlight, but also one of the best hotels stays of the whole trip. But more to how to travel in style further below.

If you are wondering where exactly we were, it was the town of Chaudes-Aigues.

It is located in the Massif Central in the heart of France, between the Cantal mountain range and the Aubrac plateau. The area is sparsely populated and geographically isolated. Much of Cantal is about pasture for the cattle – among other the old breed of Aubrac – and sheep. And this is because the climate is usually too cold and damp for grain. And we well noticed this on a walk we did in the area (link to the track on Outdooractive).

Regarding Chaudes-Aigues, it is a spa resort with more than 30 hot springs across the town. And the most famous is the Par Spring, which is the warmest natural one in whole Europe! As to natural beauties in the surroundings, there are the Aubrac Regional Nature Park, the Laussac Peninsula or the Truyère Gorges. A town you might have heard of is Laguiole where you find many companies that manufacture the famous Laguiole knives. In addition, it is a pretty village too.

Our hotel/restaurant in Cantal: Serge Vieira

My husband and I came to the Cantal region not because of the hot springs or the natural beauties, but because of the two-star Michelin Restaurant Serge Vieira. On our “mission” of finding the best restaurants everywhere we go, we stranded in this remote place. And fortunately, this highly decorated dining spot comes with accommodation options too. You can either stay at three rooms at the Couffour Castle (Restaurant Serge Vieira)

or at 18 rooms at their second place, Hotel Sodade, down in Chaudes-Aigues. Here in town, you also find Restaurant Sodade with a Michelin Bib Gourmand. I think that these establishments belong to the best what you can find in terms of upscale hotels and restaurants in the near and further area.

a) Stay at Serge Vieira at Couffour Castle

As I mentioned above, we experienced not only culinary delights at Serge Vieira but also a great hotel stay. Out of the three rooms available at Couffour Castle we opted for the “Yellow Room” (about 30 sqm, 415€ with continental breakfast). Yet I think all three have the same layout. We liked what we encountered, a modern and generously sized accommodation with an outdoor area for viewing the peaceful rural scenery.

What I very much appreciated was that the room came with two financier-pastries on both days of our stay. And the breakfast was out of this world!

Plus, Marie-Aude Vieira is the best host you could wish for.

b) Restaurant Serge Vieira, the best restaurant of our France journey

There is a sad back story behind this establishment. This is because the two-star Michelin chef Serge Vieira died of cancer at the age of 46 in mid 2023. Before he had built up with his wife Marie-Aude a successful restaurant and hotel business (Restaurant Serge Vieira at Couffour Castle from 2009 as well as Hotel and Restaurant Sodade from 2019). After her husband’s death, Marie-Aude Vieira took over. She did this with the help of a long-time friend of the family, Aurélien Gransagne. He runs the kitchen and she the dining room. I must say, we had the most exceptional dinners here – we ate here two evenings in a row (originally, we wanted to have the second one at Restaurant Sodade).

While I cannot judge Serge Vieira’s cuisine, I was delighted by Aurélien Gransagne’s inspired and truly unique dishes. You can choose between two menus: M for Marie-Aude at 235€ (6 courses) and S for Serge at 135€ (4 courses). Among other delicacies we had the most formidable lobster paired with corn or a dessert creation made of figs and almonds.

We enjoyed this in the ultra-modern dining room with picture windows to take in the views.

And this well cared for by the amiable host and her team.

Looking back to road trip in North & Central France in style (part I & II)

Here it was about the last part (three) of a North and Central France trip my husband and I did recently. It regards the itinerary from Cognac over the Dordogne to the Cantal, which was our way home to Switzerland from the Brittany. The start (part one) made the opposite direction, from our home country to our actual main destination. The voyage went first to the Champagne, then to the Normandy. And part two focused on the journey’s centerpiece, the Brittany.

Date of stay: September 2024

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The post 19 days on the road in North & Central France in style – PART III way from Brittany to Switzerland first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post 19 days on the road in North & Central France in style – PART III way from Brittany to Switzerland appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

Now it is about the Brittany, the main focus of a road trip in North and Central France that my husband and I did in late summer 2024. To get here from our home country of Switzerland we travelled via the Champagne and the Normandy. Part one of my mini-series about the voyage went into it – and also gave an overview of the whole journey. In this very post, I concentrate on the Brittany. And part three – soon to appear on my blog – focuses on our way home from the Brittany that lead us to Cognac, the Dordogne and Cantal. In all three posts, I inform about the itinerary including the major sights and some walking suggestions. And I let you know where to go for best (luxury) hotels and (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants; here as mentioned it is about Brittany.

Before diving into the Brittany, first again my Google Map with our North and Central France itinerary plus all the (luxury) hotels and the Michelin fine-dining restaurants we were:

From place to place in North & Central France, part II, Brittany

Brittany: Dinard, Perros-Guirec & Sainte-Marine/Combrit

As you have learnt by now, Brittany was our trip’s main focus. We totally spent twelve nights here, four in each spot. The start made two places on the north coast, first Dinard, in the region’s northeast. Perros-Guirec, in the northwest followed. And Sainte-Marine/Combrit near Quimper on the west coast and at the same time in Brittany’s southwest made the end.

About Brittany

Walking/Hiking on GR 34

What I found brillant about Brittany is the fact that there is a walking/hiking trail running the entire coastline (GR 34). And this Sentier des Douaniers (Customs Trail) is about 2,000 km/ 1,243 mi long. Not that my husband and I did overly long tours, but we picked out the one or other stretch of track at every place we stayed. As to Dinard, I was fond of the walk from Dinard to Saint-Lunaire (link track Outdooractive). Around Perros-Guirec, I absolutely adored the trail from Sainte-Anne to Bringuiller (link track Outdooractive).

And in the department Finistère (around Quimper) the walk/hike on the Crozon peninsula was nice (link track Outdooractive).

Town hopping in Brittany

Of course, there is also much to in Brittany in case you do not want to walk or hike. We visited quite a numbers of towns and especially liked the following ones. I list them from northeast to southwest. Cancale is a pretty port and famous for its oysters.

And  I think we came across the most beautiful villages in Brittany just before reaching it on our way from Honfleur. Saint-Malo is a fascinating granite city with its impressive rampart but unfortunately overtouristed. Dinard – nicknamed “Cannes of the north” – is an absolute beauty with its numerous Belle Époque villas.

More to Brittany’s west, Tréguier is worth a quick visit with its huge cathedral, the beautiful narrow streets and little squares. Perros-Guirec is a charming small seaside resort with a relaxed feel.

The nearby Ploumanac’h is famous for its imposing, pink granite rocks. Lannion is a historic town with pretty houses and small paved streets.

In the region’s south, Quimper has not only a majestic cathedral but also a nice historical district. Plus it has a distinctive Breton Celtic character.

Concarnau is a small walled town, which is nice but very touristy (one of the most visited places in Brittany). As far as I am concerned, I liked the nearby Pont-Aven better, famous for its colony of painters in the 19th century. It is picturesquely nestled on the banks of the Aven river with enchanting alleys in the old town.

Our hotels in Brittany: Castelbrac Dinard, L’Agapa Perros-Guirec & Villa Tri Men Sainte-Marine/Combrit

Now it is about the three (luxury) hotels we had in Brittany, which I regard as the possibly best you can find here. While the first two (Castelbrac and L’Agapa) are five-star establishments, the last (Villa Tri Men) is a four-star. Whereas the guest experience at Castelbrac was as perfect as it gets, this was not so at L’Agapa. Let me be straight, for me this accommodation is no real luxury hotel, it is rather a four-star. And I did not really warm to its vibe, which I found a bit old-fashioned. Hotel Castel Beau Site, a bit more in the west, might be a (better) alternative (built 1928, opened 2020, 28 rooms, 4-star). As to Villa Tri Men, it definitely is a four-star, yet one with an upscale ambiance. Now, to some more details to each of these three lodgings.

Castelbrac Dinard

This was the most upscale hotel of our voyage and also the best overall experience we had! It has a favourable position in Dinard, right on the beachfront promenade.

It was opened in 2015 in a historic building that used to house a museum of natural history. Now, there are 25 guest rooms looking out over the water, many with terraces, just as ours, which was huge (Prestige Room Terrace Sea View, 40 sqm, No. 4, 772€ per night with breakfast & one drink). Their style is refined yet laid-back, with Art Deco features.

Staff did a really good job, and we were served the most lovely breakfast.

Furthermore, you find here a bar, transformed from the museum’s former aquarium, and a Michelin-star restaurant (details follow below). But not enough, Castelbrac also has an outdoor pool, a small chapel and a vintage motorboat for excursions.

L’Agapa Perros-Guirec

As mentioned above, our stay here turned out to be a bit of a deception. The hotel is big for the area, where lodging tends to be small-scale (45 rooms).

It was opened in 2005 with some renovations made in the meantime. We had booked a room in one of the two annexes (Deluxe la Désirade, 45 sqm, No. 72, 384€ per night with breakfast & half a bottle of Champagne). It had a nice sea view and a generous layout, but I found it cheaply built. And it was musty, especially the bathroom, which would otherwise have been quite attractive.

Other facilities included a bar, a Michelin listed restaurant (details see below) and a spa. Breakfast was okay, as was the staff. In favor of L’Agapa must be mentioned that their pricing is reasonable. Plus, they replaced the Champagne in our room daily.

Villa Tri Men Sainte-Marine/Combrit

My husband and I felt comfortable at this elegant 19th century villa overlooking Sainte-Marine’s port. It is most probably the only bigh-end property in the area, especially if you value good reviews.

While the room we had was small and understated (Cottage, 25 sqm, No. 21, 384€ per night with breakfast), it was not a problem for us. Yet none of the 19 rooms at Villa Tri Men are large (opened in 2003, renovated in 2017/18). The bathroom at the cottage was quite spacious. Unfortunately, it had a slight moisture issue, but it was manageable. Plus, we had a nice outdoor area with a river view, as the only one of three cottages in total.

Onsite your find a bar and a Michelin starred dining spot (more info follows). And there is a second restaurant affiliated to the hotel down at the port (Michelin listed, details below). Staff is friendly and helpful, and a good breakfast is served here.

Our best restaurants in Brittany: my ranking

We dined at quite a number of fine-dining restaurants in Brittany on our nine-night stay. I will rank the dining spots we were in descending order of my fondness. And as longer this section goes, the shorter my recounting of the dining experience becomes. Frankly, none of the eateries – all listed in the Michelin guide – disappointed. Some showed weaknesses regarding the service or the concept, yet the food was always good or even excellent.

My No. 1 restaurant in Brittany: Les Trois Rochers Sainte-Marine/Combrit

My absolute favourite in terms of best restaurants in Brittany was the one-Michelin Les Trois Rochers in Sainte-Marine/Combrit near Quimper. Here Frédéric Claquin has been in charge since 2003, awarded a Michelin star since 2016. He celebrates a creative seafood cuisine blended with spices from around the world. The setting is nice, a modernly furnished dining room with picture windows to view the beautiful port scenery.

Three tasting menus are on offer: 3-course 67€ (weekdays only), 4-course 99€ and 6-course 142€. We opted for the whole shebang as we celebrated my birthday. And it was a delectable culinary journey from A to Z, delivered by competent and warm staff.

My No. 2 dining spot in Brittany: La Table de mon Père Perros-Guirec

This Michelin listed place is the hotel restaurant of Castel Beau Site I mentioned above. My husband and I enjoyed a fabulous meal here in a contemporary-chic setting. And this with a stunning view of the St. Guirec Beach.

At work here is Nicolas Le Luyer, a true Breton. He has featured a modern cuisine and has showcased local produce since 2013. On offer at La Table de mon Père is a 3-course menu of the moment for 59€. Furthermore, there are two tasting menus, 4/6 courses for 89/109€. And you can also order à la carte, what we did. As a main course, we had pork filet in unison with local sea snails (42€), which was a delight! The standard of service was pretty good, although not completely faultless.

My No. 3 eatery in Brittany: Éclosion in Quimper

This is an urban gourmet restaurant at its best! Éclosion, awarded a Michelin Bib Gourmand, was a real find for us. Not only got we contemporary food with a foreign twist at moderate prices, but also the service was very persuasive. Marion Pelletan is responsible for the dining-room, and this with lots of competence and and passion.

Thibault Le Goff in in charge of the open kitchen. And they have been doing this since early 2023. The menu includes three starters, mains and desserts each, from which you can compose a 3-/4-course menu (38€/45€). The setting is nice, modern and inviting at the same time. A must-do restaurant in case you come to Quimper!

My No. 4 restaurant in Brittany: Pourquoi Pas in Dinard

Pourquoi Pas is the “hotel restaurant” at the five-star Castelbrac. It has been holding a Michelin star since 2019, and this under the lead of  Julien Hennote. He is Breton yet a well travelled one. In the kitchen, he favors local produce and sustainable coastal fishing. You get here a 4-/6-/8-course menu (80/100/120€). On our dinner here, we had a lobster menu. It included six dishes, which were all inventive and well-made, though we found the main special. It was a lobster tail on sausage slices, which we considered a strange pairing. Yet the desserts were fantastic. And we also got a goodie, a financier with algae. This may sound awkward, but it was very tasty! Had it not been for the the somewhat awkward main dish, this dining spot would have topped our ranking of best restaurants in Brittany.

Service was good as was the ambiance at this elegant and stylish dining spot with its wonderful view of the Saint-Malo Bay.

My No. 5 to 8 dining spots in Brittany

Two more Dinard dining spots follow in my ranking of best restaurants in Brittany, both Michelin listed. This is about Ombelle and Didier Méril. While the former is modern and casual,

the latter is traditional and elegant, yet both with sea view.

Whereas Ombelle is reasonably priced, Didier Méril seems rather pricy for the area. Staff at both establishments left a mixed impression. However, the two of them offered quite a good food experience.

No. 7 is Le Bélouga in Perros-Guirec and No. 8 Bistrot du Bac in Sainte-Marine/Combrit, both included in the Michelin guide. The former is a hotel restaurant with a great sea view yet with quite a chilly atmosphere.

The service was so-so, however the food was persuasive (bistronomic and moderately priced, especially on Sunday and Monday).

The latter is a hotel restaurant too, but not your typical one. Instead, it is a real bistro

with fresh and simple seafood dishes (sole was great).

And the setting on a small port is lovely.

Looking back and forth to road trip in North & Central France in style (part I & III)

This very post went into the centerpiece of our North and Central France trip, the Brittany. To summarize, part one (last blogpost) was about our way from Switzerland to the Brittany. It went to the Champagne first, followed by the Normandy. Soon on my blog, you will find part three (the last of this mini-series), highlighting the route we took when returning home from the Brittany. We did so via Cognac, the Dordogne and the Cantal.

Date of stay: September 2024

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The post 19 days on the road in North & Central France in style – PART II Brittany (main destination) first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post 19 days on the road in North & Central France in style – PART II Brittany (main destination) appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

A long held plan came true in late summer 2024, when my husband and I set off on an extended journey through France. Not that we have not travelled our beautiful neighboring country in the recent past, but mostly for a few days only. This time we wanted to do a longer trip to France, and this by car. Its main focus should be the Brittany. As we started from northwestern Switzerland, this meant that we had to build in at least one stopover. And the same is true for the way back. So in the end, a 19-day voyage resulted. Before arriving in the Brittany, we made two stops (Champagne & Normandy). The return way lead via Cognac, the Dordogne and the Cantal/Auvergne. As always when traveling, we kept an eye out for best luxury hotels and (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants worth the money spent on them. Here in this post it is about part one, an outline of the the whole journey and the route to Brittany, leading to the Champagne and Honfleur/Normandy.

Before coming to our 19-day itinerary for North and Central France in style, there is something else. It concerns the sort of content you may expect in this context.

What is next about the North & Central France journey in the time to come?

Actually, I wanted to provide quite a number of blogposts about our extended trip through France’s north and center. And they should follow right after this one outlining our itinerary. I used to to do this on my blog for many voyages in the past. This time, it will be a little bit different. This is because my husband and I already did another longer road trip in the meantime. It went to the Peloponnese and Athens in Greece. So, I want to keep my France travel recount shorter. That means to focus on the essentials such as what to do and where do go for best hotels and restaurants (part one: Champagne & Honfleur). I might pick out one or another topic and dwell on it later. Yet this would be after letting you know about our Greece journey just in the way I do it here for the North and Central France. It makes no sense for me to always fall behind with my trip reporting. And the next voyage is already approaching!

19 days on the road from Switzerland to Brittany and back with several before-and-after stops

It was not the first Brittany trip that my husband and I undertook this late summer. Back in the 90s, we already spent two weeks in the area. So, we decided to leave away most places that we went to at the time. This is true for some of the most visited spots too, Mont-Saint-Michel or Pointe du Raz. Notwithstanding, there are more than enough things to do. Here is my Google Map with our North and Central France itinerary plus all the (luxury) hotels and the Michelin fine-dining restaurants we were:

As mentioned, the journey’s first stop was in the Champagne region where we stayed in Épernay. From here, we continued to Honfleur in Normandy. Next was the first of three stays in Brittany. It took place in Dinard. Perros-Guirec, another town on France’s north coast followed. Then, we moved on to the country’s west coast, to Sainte-Marine/Combrit close to Quimper.

After leaving Brittany, we headed further south to Cognac, where the famous spirit of the same name comes from, a type of brandy made of grapes. The next stop was in the Dordogne (Vitrac), also known under its old name of Périgord. From here, we drove on to the Cantal department, which is located in the heart of France. Here we lodged at Chaudes-Aigues. Originally, we had planned one more stop in the French Jura. Yet we cancelled it at the last moment and directly returned to Switzerland from Cantal, which was quite a stretch to drive.

Now to some information about the individual stops on our North and Central France itinerary. This includes things to do with a couple of walking suggestions. And you learn about where to go for staying and dining in style. As there is quite a lot of material, I need to break my reporting down in three parts. I start in this blogpost with part one, the Champagne and Honfleur/Normandy (best activities, hotels and restaurants). The next one will be about the Brittany and the third part about Cognac, the Dordogne and Cantal.

From place to place in North & Central France, part I, Champagne & Normandy (best activities, hotels & restaurants)

1. Champagne Épernay

About the Champagne

Champagne is undoubtedly France’s most famous fizz, if not the world’s! This wine-making region is on Paris’ northeast side, with the towns of Reims and Épernay often used as a visitors’ base. For sure, you want to visit a Champagne House when being in the area, so book your slot in advance. If the question should arise which one to choose, this is difficult because there are numerous! My husband and I visited the biodynamic Leclerc Briant Champagne House because we stayed at their hotel, a family house in the middle of Épernay (see below).

While Reims is a bigger town (population of about 180,000), Épernay is much smaller (22,000 inhabitants). Both have their charms. Reims boasts a nice old town and a splendid cathedral. The special feature of Épernay is the Avenue de Champagne. It has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2015. Here one Champagner House comes after another. And attached to them are bars and restaurants where you can taste the Houses’ finest cuvées, sometimes paired with culinary delicacies.

Our hotel: Le 25Bis by Leclerc Briant Épernay

For our two-day stay in the Champagne, my husband and I chose Le 25Bis by Leclerc Briant (Champagne House), opened in 2019. With its five rooms only, this former 18th century family home makes for an intimate stay. As it is located on the prestigious Avenue de Champagne, this luxury guest house comes with a Champagne shop and a terrace to try the House’s cuvées.

As to its interiors, it is a mix between old and new. Each room is different from each other. We opted for Room No. 3, which I personally find the best as it overlooks the (quiet) rear of the house with the garden. It is spacious (47 sqm), with a lovely seating area and quite a large bathroom.

And Le 25Bis by Leclerc Briant is a heaven for Champagne lovers! Not only were we treated a small bottle of their exquisite Champagne and cookies in our room, but we also got a glass of it every morning at breakfast! The room rate per night was 425€ (with breakfast), which we found adequate. A delightful little breakfast was included, prepared on site (behind the bar) by friendly staff.

Our restaurants: Bulles & Bonheur and Symbiose, both in Épernay

a) Bulles & Bonheur Épernay

I really wanted to have a dinner with a Champagne pairing and came across the Champagne producer of Élodie D. This is about a female wine growing business in the fourth generation. As to their restaurant, two tasting menus are on offer. The five-course Menu Élodie (wine grower) amounts to 70€ without and to 130€ with the Champagne pairing (5 glasses). Menu Fabrice (her husband), which we had, includes seven courses and costs 110€. Together with the Champagne pairing (five glasses) the total expense is 200€. As to the food, you get here immaculately prepared modern French cuisine, nicely presented, in pleasant surroundings.

Fabrice was present on our dinner and this together with a fifth generation member, the couple’s lovely daughter. She helped out with the service although being only about ten years old. And she did a good job just as the rest of the staff! In terms of Champagne, you get different cuvées of the Champagne Élodie D. and also old vintages of the Champagne Desbordes-Amiaud. We liked both of them, although the latter is a Champagne of a different kind. We found that it almost tasted like a port wine.

b) Symbiose Épernay

Symbiose is a small eatery in Épernay’s town center where Maxine Moret (chef) and his wife Justine (host) are in charge. On offer is a contemporary cuisine (Michelin listed). Although Justine was not present 0n our evening, we felt well cared for on our dinner. The modernly styled dining room feels pleasant.

In terms of food, there are three starters, two mains, cheese and two dessert available. Out of this offer, you can compose two menus (4-/5-course at 54/70€) or order à la carte. Everything we got – we opted for the 4-course version – was great! I liked it that the cuisine was not only modern but also light. Maybe the service was a bit slow-paced, but I think the chef was alone in the kitchen.

2. Honfleur Normandy

About Normandy

Normandy has lots to offer as to things to do. Its most popular attraction is of course the Mont-Saint-Michel Bay – a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979. Although it is overrun by tourists, it is worth visiting. Another must-do is exploring the different landscapes along the Alabaster Coast. There is the GR21 hiking trail running all the way from Le Havre to Le Tréport. Its most beautiful part is probably around Étretat with its beautiful cliffs – unfortunately overtouristed too. And if you are a history buff, the D-day beaches might be your thing.

As my husband and I already visited the Mont-Saint-Michel Bay and Étretat on our first trip to Normandy, we limited ourselves on discovering Honfleur a bit more. We did so by making a hike around Honfleur, here is the link to the track on Outdooractive.

As to Honfleur, we already knew it. Therefore, we expected lots of tourists here. It was exactly like that, but understandable. The historic multi-store houses packed tight to each other around the Vieux Bassin (port) make a beautiful picture.

Yet a few steps further, and you are away from the masses!

Our hotel: Saint-Delis Honfleur 

Our hotel in Honfleur was Hotel Saint-Delis, opened 2020 in a 17th century former family home.

It is located in a beautiful residential neighborhood, very close to the town center.With its nine rooms only, this Relais & Châteaux property is very boutique. The elegantly furnished rooms come with steam showers and overlook a splendid garden.

We had booked a Deluxe Room (31 sqm, 599€ with breakfast per night), yet were upgraded to a Junior Suite (40 sqm). It was a duplex with ample space, which we liked (No 5). And this despite the fact that the A/C was a bit suboptimal.

You find no restaurant on site but there is a bar for hotel guests only. Here you get a lovely breakfast and snacks throughout the day, served by friendly and helpful staff.

Our restaurants: Huître Brûlée & Le Bréard, both in Honfleur

a) Huître Brûlée Honfleur

At the Michelin listed Huître Brûlée you get oysters – as its name suggests! But we chose other items from the small à la carte, which is reasonably priced. The cuisine at this lively, casual place is modern.

And and you get also lighter and healthy choices. At the helm at Huître Brûlée is a younger couple, Paul Lacheray in the kitchen and his partner, Chloé Woestelandt, in the dining room. Even though the staff was busy on our visit, it was cordial. We liked what we had for starters (all around 15€) and mains (from 22 to 30€). Instead of  going for cheese (5€), my husband and I had two desserts (10€ each). Yet the latter was too much, as especially the chocolate dessert was quite heavy (one dessert is probably sufficient).

b) Le Bréard Honfleur

This Michelin dining spot is the more sophisticated choice compared to its above mentioned competitor. What they have in common, is the modern food. Yet the decor here is chicer, the service more polished and the cuisine a touch more refined.

A younger couple is in charge as well, Fabrice Sébire in the kitchen and his wife Karine in the dining room (since 2004). On our evening, we could have a seat outdoors in the lovely courtyard. From the three menus (with options), we chose the middle (3-course menu 45€, 4-course menu 60€, 6-course menu 70€).

The service was professional and attentive. We found that Karine had an open eye for subtleties that others might overlook. And there were no issues with the pricing, which we considered as fair.

Looking forth to road trip in North & Central France in style (part II & III)

That was the first part of a North and Central France trip my husband and I undertook lately. It showcased the itinerary from Switzerland – where we come from – to the Brittany. This is about the Champagne and Honfleur/Normandy, and I go into the best activities, hotels and restaurants here. The Brittany is the main focus of our journey and I deal with it in part two. Part three finally is about the return way, going from the Brittany via Cognac, the Dordogne and the Cantal back to Switzerland.

Date of stay: September 2024

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