On our Montreux stay, my husband and I had dinner at both Michelin starred restaurants in town. This is about Restaurant Maison Décotterd and Restaurant Pont de Brent. We did so on our 14-day trip through north Italy and west Switzerland. Montreux was our last stop and we had to celebrate not only the end of a great journey but also a special birthday. So we splurged a last time before heading home. Yet we did so all along the trip – we “accumulated “eight Michelin stars in total!

In the meantime, there is only one left from these two Michelin starred dining-spots in Montreux, and this is Maison Décotterd. Pont de Brent on the other hand went bankrupt at the beginning of November 2023. Notwithstanding that, I will go into both establishments, although differently. Before doing so, first to the itinerary of our “gourmet journey”.

14-day itinerary through north Italy and west Switzerland

The start of our trip – that was not “only” destined to dining in style – , was in South Tyrol in Italy’s northernmost district. Here we lodged first in the Merano area. Then we continued to the Bolzano region where we headed to the Sarentino valley. Next was Lake Garda, precisely the small town of Gardone Riviera on its southwestern shore. Check out where we stayed and dined in style on Italy’s biggest lake. And last – as mentioned – , we were in Montreux in west Switzerland.

If you are wondering which hotel we chose for our Montreux stay, we revisited one that we already knew from a stay in 2021. It is about Hotel Victoria in Glion, high above Montreux (see my post). And it is only a few minutes by foot away from one of the mentioned Michelin starred restaurants in Montreux we went, Maison Décotterd.

1. Restaurant Maison Décotterd in Glion/Montreux

About

This restaurant in Montreux is awarded not only one Michelin star – it even used to have two of them – , it also has 18 points in the Gault Millau guide. Last time when we stayed in the area (in 2021), it was at another location. And funnily enough, it was housed in the other dining spot I am going to write about, Restaurant Pont de Brent.

But first things first. Restaurant Pont de Brent used to be one of few three-star Michelin dining-spots in Switzerland. At the time, it was helmed by Gérard Rabaey, who still owns the it. Stéphane Décotterd, who now is the chef at Maison Décotterd, was his sous chef of many years. When the three-star Michelin chef retired, he handed over the restaurant to his sous chef. For ten long years, Stéphane Décotterd worked at Pont de Brent before he moved to Glion in fall 2021, to the surprise of many. And this to a much bigger establishment than before.

The change of location brought him not only luck. In contrast to his earlier place of work where he had two Michelin stars, Maison Décotterd was “only” awarded one of those. And also in the time to follow, the rating stayed unchanged.

What to expect at Maison Décotterd?

Maison Décotterd is housed in the buildings of the Glion hospitality management school, and the setting could not been much nicer. From here you have the most fantastic views of Lake Geneva and mountains.

At Maison Décotterd, you find not only the gourmet dining spot, Restaurant Stéphane Décotterd, but also the Bistro

and the Lounge Bar.

In the following, it is about the former only.

Restaurant Stéphane Décotterd is a gorgeous place for dining in style. Not only the vista is impressive, the same is true for the service brigade. But I think they can benefit from the in-house students. We were welcomed in the most perfect manner and asked whether we wanted to go straight to our table or to the Lounge Bar first. We opted for the latter, yet I think it would be better to head to your table right away in order to take in the views as soon as possible. Anyway, the setting is elegant indeed, at both spots.

Food wise, you have to decide between the tasting menu or the à la carte option. The former consists of nine courses at 285 SFR/US$. Alternatively, you can have it with seven courses at SFR 215/US$. In case you go for à la carte, starters cost between 57 and 80 SFR/US$, seafood from 63 to 85 SFR/US$ and meat between 90 and 105 SFR/US$. You can also order mains for two, Wagyu for 315 SFR/US$ or – by prior reservation – dry aged duck for 195 SFR/US$. Cheese and dessert dishes amount to 35 SFR/US$ each.

How was it?

The setting at Maison Décotterd is hard to beat, both as to the dining room and to the views. Service was generally good yet not outstanding. Twice we had to look out for the sommelier to top our wine glasses. Otherwise, they were courteous and informative. After dinner, the chef himself did the tour to greet his guests, which is always a good thing.

With regard to food, the chef has not been relying on luxury products just as lobster or foie for quite some years. Instead, he is focusing on regional and seasonal fare. We got a delightfully balanced series of artfully composed dishes that were a feast for the tastebuds. One fish course, a local Fera, which was tender and flavorful, was prepared tableside. Only the praline that came with the veal chiffonnade was not to my liking (braised meat and truffles, I suppose). I found it undefinable and a bit tough.

The desserts, for which Christophe Loeffel is responsible, deserve a special mention. He is courageous enough to do unusual combinations of flavors. In addition, he has a knack for fresh creations. This is evident in the second dessert, where he paired Granny Smith apple with Crème Double and dill.

As to the sweet things, we got petit fours before and after the desserts, a first for me!

2. Restaurant Pont de Brent in Brent/Montreux

I was sad to hear the news that the young couple running Restaurant Pont de Brent since mid 2022 did not make it. Yet, I hate to say that it did not come as a surprise to me. Of course, it is easy to make judgments once an event has already happened. But my husband and I had a clouded impression of the dinner we had here almost two months before it closed down.

My reporting about Restaurant Pont de Brent is divided into two parts. First, I will go into the young couple’s story at this dining-spot to some extent. Second, there will be details about our dining experience here.

Antoine Gonnet and Amandine Pivault at Restaurant Pont de Brent

Part I: the start

After the departure of Stéphane Decotterd at Restaurant Pont de Brent, Gérard Rabeaey, owner and former three-star Michelin chef here, went on a search for a new chef. And he found a young couple for his small house, starting in June 2022. This was about Antoine Gonnet, chef, and Amandine Pivault, host. The young couple had worked at a tiny place before, Restaurant Le 42 in Champéry. Under their regime, it got a Michelin star.

And it seems that they started successfully at Pont de Brent. Already in fall 2022, this restaurant in Montreux received a Michelin star. And the Gault Millau guide awarded 17 points to the dining-spot as a starter. From what is now known (interview with Gault-Millau), the first half year was promising with lots of guests.

Part II: the decline

In 2023, it became clear that the number of regulars was lower than expected. After the initial curiosity, the interest of the clientele waned. At the end, they served 200 meals less per month than in the previous year. The young couple thinks that they made the mistake of investing too much, too quickly, in both equipment and staff (a team of 5 chefs). And so, the judge finally declared bankruptcy on the third of November, 2023.

In the meantime, both have new jobs. This time the couple is in an employment relationship. And they are back at the spot where they came from, the Illiez valley. Their comeback however is not about gaining stars and points in the first place. And this is because they work now in a more modest establishment (Winstub at the Peanut Mountain Lodge).

Dinner experience at Pont de Brent

In order to have dinner at this Michelin starred restaurant in Montreux, we had to make a deposit of 100 SFR/US$ to secure our reservation. I did not wonder too much about this procedure at the time. No shows definitely seem to be at problem at restaurants nowadays! On our arrival (a Thursday evening), I was astonished to see that the place was far from being full, only four tables were occupied. From the beginning, we felt not really comfortable at Pont de Brent. Both the host and another staff member seemed somewhat reserved. It made the impression of tension in the air.

When I later heard about the bankruptcy, the scales fell from my eyes. I realized then what had been going on when we had dinner here. They already were at a low point at the time! And we had noticed it on an unconscious level. Be it as it may, the evening proceeded in the usual manner. We marveled at the fresh and merry design of the dining-spot. When it came to what to order, we opted for the smaller menu (5 courses for 170 SFR/US$).

The bigger menu had two courses more (210 SFR/US$).

In terms of food, I can only say positive things. Each dish was bursting with flavor and cooked to perfection. I especially liked the tomato mussel variation

and the main course, beef paired with plum and Szechuan pepper.

And everything was arranged nicely, often on more than one plate. Having said that, the portions were rather small. In addition, neither an amuse bouche nor a pre-dessert were served. We had to feast on the tasty bread in order to get enough. But in this respect, Pont de Brent is not really an exception.

Overall Michelin starred restaurants in Montreux

While Maison Décotterd met our (high) expectations in most aspects, Pont de Brent did not. Of course, you cannot necessarily compare these two Michelin starred restaurants in Montreux. Whereas the former is a sophisticated establishment with lots of space, elegant interiors and splendid views, the latter is somewhat more modest. It is smaller and there is something more rural about it, despite its rather contemporary look.

On our visit, Pont de Brent was convincing food wise. There was nothing to complain about whatsoever. Everything was perfect. As to the service, it was more complicated. At first sight, it was without fault or blame. But something important was missing, it lacked dedication. I now think that was due to the difficult situation they were in. Probably, they had already given up, I cannot know.

The same is true when it comes to the question why it did not work out with Antoine Gonnet and Amandine Pivault at Pont de Brent. Did they want too much? Or were they not experienced enough? Did the former regulars go with Stéphane Décotterd to his new place? Be it as it may, it is always sad seeing talented people fail. But the restaurant business is a hard one, today more than ever.

Date of visit: September 2023

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Yet another road trip in north Italy and west Switzerland was on my husband’s and my agenda this late summer. And this after already doing one to Italy’s north (and France’s south) in 2021 (see my post). But this region in Italy has so much to offer in terms of great destinations, luxury hotels and Michelin (starred) dining spots. And contrary to our last journey, we went more east this time, to Trentino-South Tyrol and Lombardy. Before coming to details where we were headed (this and the last trip), some info on our travel focus. My husband and I like to travel in style. That means looking for high-end lodging and Michelin fine dining wherever we get to. Yet we attach great importance to not paying exorbitant prices.

Now to the itineraries as announced.

North Italy & west Switzerland 14-day road trip itinerary

For the itinerary of our last trip in the area, check out my correspondent post. It went to northern Italy and southern France in 11 days. As to the Italian part, we started in the Piedmont (Lake Orta and around Alba) and continued to the Italian Riviera (Alassio). After crossing the border to France, we headed first to Vence (French Riviera), then to the Provence (near Les Baux-de-Provence). The last stop before returning to Switzerland was in Vienne, south of Lyon.

This time, we began our journey in the Trentino-South Tyrol (Italian: Trentino-Alto Adige). Find here my Google Map of it.

Our first two destinations were in the South Tyrol. Dorf Tirol (Italian: Tirolo) above Meran (Italian: Merano)

made the start – not to be confused with the Austrian region of the same name! You might have already noticed it, the South Tyrol is bilingual (German and Italy), not so the Trentino. Next was the nearby Sarntal (Italian: Sarentino valley)

above Bozen (Italian: Bolzano). And the last stop in Italy were the Italian Lakes, precisely Lake Garda.

While its northern part is still in the Trentino-South Tyrol region, the place we went – Gardone Riviera (hotel/restaurants) – is already in the Lombardy (Italian: Lormbardia). The final destination of our trip was the Lake Geneva region, in the western part of Switzerland, exactly Glion/Montreux.

From place to place in north Italy & west Switzerland

As my husband and I like to travel in style – without losing sight of value for money -, we made sure to stay at upscale hotels and to dine at gourmet restaurants, preferably Michelin listed or starred places. This was not really a difficult thing to do as north Italy and west Switzerland has quite a choice for lovers of fine lodging and dining.

I always begin with a short description of the respective town/region and continue with providing some brief information on the high-end hotel we stayed and on the fine dining spot(s) we ate in this place. Sometimes, I will also mention some other places to stay and dine in style in the area that might be worth trying out.

1. Tirolo above Merano, Trentino-South Tyrol

1.1. About Tirolo

Tirolo is located above Merano, the hub here. As to the latter, it is small yet fine spa town in the heart of the South Tyrol. Actually, it is the second largest city in the South Tyrol (about 40,000 inhabitants). This medieval town has been a popular place to go since Empress Elisabeth of Austria (Sissi) started coming here. And she did this especially because of its spa and its almost Mediterranean climate. Lots of buildings, parks and promenades stem from this time.

And if you like walking, Merano and its surroundings is known for its abundance of Waalwege, trails alongs irrigation canals.

As far as Tirolo is concerned, it also is steeped in culture and history. You find here and around it some notable castles, fortresses and churches, from which the Tyrol Castle is the most prominent. Otherwise, the small village (about 2,500 inhabitants) draws lots of vacationeers in search of sun, panoramic vistas and hiking opportunities.

You can reach Merano from here in a short drive either by car or by bus. There is also a chairlift connecting these two places.

1.2. Which hotel to choose as demanding guest in Tirolo

There is a huge selection of luxury hotels in the Merano area to choose from. After having stayed here several times in the past, I have identified two of the best (see also my correspondent post). While we tried out a “new one” on our last stay, this time we returned to the one we knew from two previous stays. And I have to say that this luxury hotel is hard to beat! The latest renovation (2021) made it a state-of-the-art property with all the amenities you can think of. It is about Hotel Castel in Tirolo. It also hosts the one and only two-star Michelin restaurant in the Merano region. A post to come will go into more details of this stunning lodging.

1.3. Where to go for great Michelin listed (starred) restaurants in Tirolo

I just mentioned it, you do not have to leave your hotel in case you stay at the Castel in Tirolo when looking for best fine dining in the area. This is because the top place in this respect is on site. It is about Restaurant Castel Fine Dining, a Michelin two-starred establishment, and this since 2010 (formerly Trenkerstube).

When being a hotel guest at Hotel Castel, you are on half board – there is no other noteworthy (Michelin) fine dining in Tirolo anyway. And this arrangement allows you to enjoy exquisite food without even visiting the mentioned Michelin starred Restaurant Castel Fine Dining.

Notwithstanding that, when being a fine food lover, I highly recommend dining here once during your stay. This gives you not only the opportunity to indulge in chef Gerhard Wieser’s signature dishes but also to check out one of the most beautiful dining rooms I have ever encountered (only five tables and all have this tremendous view of Merano from high above). More about dining at Hotel Castel and at Restaurant Castel Fine Dining follows in the above mentioned future post.

2. Sarentino valley above Bolzano, Trentino-South Tyrol

2.1. About the Sarentino valley

The Sarentino valley stretches northwards from Bolzano, South Tyrol’s capital and its largest city (about 110,000 inhabitants). When coming from Merano, I recommend to make a short stop in Bolzano to check out its beautiful old town.

This especially given the fact that you only need about one hour for your drive from Merano to the hamlet above Sarnthein (Sarentino), the valley’s capital, where our choice of hotel is located. Bolzano – as Merano – was influenced by Germanic and Italian currents, yet I personally find that it feels more Italian than Merano.

Just a few kilometers/miles away from the bustling regional center of Bolzano you reach the idyllic village of Sarentino (2,300 inhabitants). This is another world, full of wild nature and far off the beaten track. And the area is great for hiking with a view. A great panoramic vista awaits you – among others the entire spectrum of the Dolomites, a UNESCO world natural heritage.

While you are in the village of Sarentino at 980 m/3,315 ft above sea level, you have to climb further  up in order to come to Prati/Auen where you find the hotel I am going to inform you about. And the road to it is narrow!

2.2. Where to stay in the Sarentino valley as discerning traveler

First and foremost, there is one place in the area that makes people loving the finer things in life to come here. And this is Hotel Terra The Magic Place! Once you have the before mentioned narrow road behind you, you made it to this remote spot at 1,622 m/5,322 ft above sea level. There are a public parking lot (for hikers), a ski hut and this amazing hotel you would not think finding here. It is a Relais & Châteaux property that has seen several renovations and expansions since 2010, a true gem surrounded by unspoiled nature. And imagine it not only offers immaculate lodging but also a two-star Michelin dining-spot! If you want to know more about this place, one of my next blogpost will go into it.

In case you are looking for prime lodging around the village of Sarentino

and nearer to Bolzano, Hotel Bad Schoergau might be a good option too. I have not been here but I liked what I saw when checking it out on the internet.

2.3. Where to dine in style in the Sarentino valley

What draws hard-core foodies to the Sarentino valley, is of course the mentioned Michelin two-starred Restaurant Terra at Hotel Terra The Magic Place high above the village of Sarentino. You will find more info about it in my post about the hotel in question soon on my blog.

Yet there is more of fine dining in the village of Sarentino. On the one hand, it is about the Michelin listed dining spot at the already highlighted Hotel Bad Schoergau, the Ristorante Alpes/La FuGa. On the other hand, you find a Michelin eatery in town too, Restaurant Braunwirt. I have not dined at either of them, so I cannot comment, but the reviews are good.

3. Gardone Riviera on Lake Garda, Lombardy

3.1. About Gardone Riviera

Before coming to the town of Gardone Riviera, a few words about Lake Garda. It is one of the Italian Lakes, a group of larges lakes on the south side of the Alps, all of them glacial ones. And Lake Garda is not only the largest of them but also in whole Italy. On its western shore, you find the Lemon Riviera – from Salò to Limone. This stretch along the lake has a mild, Mediterranean-like climate, so even citrus fruits grow here.

As to Gardone Riviera – on the Lemon Riviera – , it is favorably located for many sights. Not only boasts it some important ones on site – Il Vittoriale degli Italiani (a Gesamtkunstwerk of house, monument and fantasy)

or the Heller Botanical Garden,

it is close to many others. I mention here for example Salò, the region’s town with the nicest Lungolago (lakeside promenade)

or Sirmione, THE tourist attraction in the area (expect masses of people here) with the Scaliger Castle (an extraordinary lakeside fortification)

or the Grottoes of Catullus (a striking example of a Roman villa, now in ruins).

While Gardone Riviera is not large (it only has a bit more than 2,500 inhabitants), it has everything that makes a real place – a nice Lungolago, a small old quarter by the lake, an old town on the hillside. And its laid-back ambiance is a plus too. And it is even considered as one of the most beautiful villages in Italy (part of I Borghi più Belli d’Italia).

3.2. Which luxury hotel to choose in Gardone Riviera

You find quite a number of upscale hotels in Gardone Riviera. Many of them are late 19th, early 20th century properties. Some line the lake front, others are located hillside, overlooking the lake. At the end, we had fluctuated between Hotel Bella Riva and Grand Hotel Fasano. Finally, we decided for the latter, and this for various reasons. First, it is a wonderful old building in a stately park among ancient trees, frontally facing the lake. Second, it is closer to the town center. Third, it has a Michelin listed restaurant on site.

And we were not disappointed by our choice. It is such a beautiful property, a fantastic example of neoclassical style architecture. The building was constructed in 1888 as a hunting lodge for the Austrian imperial family. And it was declared a National Heritage Site by the Ministry of Cultural Heritage. The Fasano, part of the Leading Hotels of the World, also underwent some renovations recently. So, we enjoyed among other things an updated guest room with a great lake view. If you should be interested in more information about this accommodation, I will provide some in a post to come.

3.3. Where to go a fine dining lover in Gardone Riviera

I already let you know that Grand Hotel Fasano hosts a Michelin listed restaurant. It is about Restaurant Il Fagiano, helmed by a Michelin one-star chef.

But there is more around for gourmets! If you are a hard-core foodie, try to get a booking at Restaurant Lido 84.

This beautifully located restaurant right on the lake has a Michelin star plus it ranks No 7 on the list of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants.

And there are two more Michelin restaurants in this picturesque lakeside town. On the one hand, you find here Restaurant Fiordaliso at the Hotel of the same name. Again, it has this stunning location at the water’s edge.

On the other hand, Gardone Riviera’s scenic old town also features an awarded dining-spot. It is about Osteria Antico Brolo in a rustic 18th century building.

All the restaurants I just mentioned can be reached by foot from Grand Hotel Fasano. While Restaurant Lido 84 and Restaurant Fiordaliso are very close, Osteria Antico Brolo is a bit further away, you get here in about a 15 minute walk. You will find out about how it is dining at all these four dining spots in a future post, along with the lodging experience at Grand Hotel Fasano.

4. Glion above Montreux on Lake Geneva

4.1. About Glion/Montreux & where to stay here in style

I will not go into details here as I have already informed about this topic in a previous post. If you want to know more about the Lake Geneva region, especially about the Montreux Riviera and Lausanne, have a look here. As far as our lodging in Glion is concerned, we returned to one we already had stayed at back in 2021. Find here the hotel review of Hotel and Restaurant Victoria.

4.2. Michelin starred dining in Montreux area

In addition to dining at the hotel restaurant again (see above), we tried out two more dining-spots. Both of them are awarded with a Michelin star. It is about one in Glion itself, the other in another village above Montreux. The first is Restaurant Le Pont de Brent in Brent (UPADATE: out of business in November 2023).

You can reach it in a ten-minute drive (best by taxi or Uber) from Hotel Victoria. The other is Maison Décotterd, only a few minutes away by foot from this accommdation.

A post to follow will give you an impression of how it is dining at these two gourmet temples.

What is next about north Italy & west Switzerland

I already let you know, I do not want to leave it at the itinerary and some short remarks as to our north Italy & west Switzerland 14 day-trip in style. I want to delve deeper and let you know how it was in every single place. The start makes the Merano area, followed by the Sarentino valley, both in the South Tyrol. I continue with the Lake Garda region, and this with the southwestern part, also called Lemon Riviera (hotel/restaurants). And the end sets an area in western Switzerland. And this is Montreux on Lake Geneva.

After having made the one or two bits of information on the respective places in general (what to expect as a traveler here), I will not offer more details in this regard. Instead, I will put a focus on the upscale hotels we stayed and the Michelin restaurants we dined. Actually, all the dining spots we visited on this journey through north Italy and west Switzerland are listed in the Michelin Guide except one (Restaurant Victoria Glion). Six of them even are Michelin-starred, that means we “collected” eight Michelin stars in total!

I will publish a post for each place. Consequently, there will be following four more blogposts on this topic:

• Hotel Castel in Tirolo/South Tyrol with two-star Michelin Restaurant Castel Fine Dining,
• Hotel Terra in the Sarentino valley/South Tyrol with two-star Michelin Restaurant Terra,
• Grand Hotel Fasano in Gardone Riviera/Lake Garda with Michelin starred Restaurant Il Fagiano plus three more foodie spots in town,
• two one-star Michelin restaurants in Montreux/Lake Geneva

Other similar itineraries

In case you should be interested in other similar itineraries than this current one about northwest Italy and southeast France, here are more:

• Northern Italy & southern France in style, a 11-day road trip itinerary
• 11 days on the road in the Piedmont & west Switzerland in luxury

Date of stay: September 2023

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If there is an iconic temple of gastronomy outside of France, it must be the three-starred Michelin Restaurant Hôtel de Ville in Crissier in Switzerland’s west! The story of this dining-spot in an unassuming town near Lausanne is truly unique. Since chef Frédy Girardet first got three Michelin stars back in 1994, three more chefs succeeded and have kept this award to this day, and this without interruption. Moreover, all of them stuck to the three-flavor rule that Frédy Girardet established during his work at Restaurant Hôtel de Ville in Crissier.

I always knew that I had to visit this iconic restaurant at some point in life. Now the time had come. My husband surprised me with a reservation at this gourmet temple, to celebrate an anniversary.

And we made this “pilgrimage” on our way to Paris (see my post about staying and dining in style here).

Before coming to the actual dining experience, I have to go into some related details. First, there will be some lines about Switzerland’s three-star Michelin restaurant scene. Second, I have to let you know more about the fascinating story of this palace of haute gastronomy.

Switzerland’s 3-star Michelin restaurants

In total, there are four dining-spots in Switzerland having received three Michelin stars. The one that got this award first was – of course – the mentioned Restaurant Hôtel de Ville in Crissier. That was back in 1994, when Frédy Girardet was at the helm. At the time, he was already 58 years old and retired two years later.

The second dining-spot to be honored with three Michelin stars was Restaurant Schauenstein in Fuerstenau in the Grisons.

That was in 2010, and Andreas Caminada became Europe’s youngest three-star chef at 33. I have dined here twice, in 2012 and in 2020. While I was intrigued by his creative, modern cuisine on my first visit, this was less so on my second. While everything was technically immaculate, it was too much on the predictable side. When going to such a highly decorated place, I want to be surprised. And in my view, he did not completely accomplish in this respect. See here my post about it.

The third in this row is Restaurant Cheval Blanc at Hotel Les Trois Rois in Basel.

This venue is under the lead of German chef Peter Knogl. He got the third Michelin star in 2015 for his French haute cuisine with Mediterranean and Asian influences. At the time of the award, he was 47 years old. I have not dined at this restaurant so far, so I cannot comment on how it is. Friends of mine were here once, and they were not overly enthusiastic about it. But that does not have to mean anything. I will let you know about my dining here in case I manage to do so in the time to come!

And just recently, Switzerland has received its fourth three-star Michelin establishment. This is Restaurant Memories

at Grand Resort Bad Ragaz by chef Sven Wassmer, who is only 35 years old. This award is highly merited! My husband and I had a fantastic dinner here in summer 2020 (see my post). We were deeply impressed by the chef’s puristic modern alpine cuisine!

Now to my post’s actual topic, Restaurant Hôtel de Ville in Crissier.

Restaurant Hôtel de Ville in Crissier, THE culinary institution in Switzerland

I start with the dining-spot’s story, continued with some practical information before coming to the dining experience.

Restaurant Hôtel de Ville’s fascinating story

Benjamin & Frédy Girardet: 1955 – 1996

I have already given some hints in the introduction. This venue has a long and eventful story, with four big chefs at work here. It all started with Frédy Girardet’s father Benjamin who opened his own restaurant at the former Hôtel de Ville de Crissier back in 1955. At first, Frédy Girardet, born 1936, as his youngest son showed no intentions to follow in the footsteps of his father. He became a typographer before he had some kind of revelation when having dinner at the Troisgros brothers in Roanne, a three-star Michelin establishment since 1968. This was a life changing event to him and made him change his professional career.

When his father died in 1965, he took over at Restaurant Hôtel de Ville in Crissier and created his own style, inspired by the nouvelle cuisine. He established one golden rule: never more than three flavors on the plate. After years of hard work he got the highest award in 1994, three Michelin stars. Two years later, he retired and handed over the management to his sous chef, Philippe Rochat.

By photo©ErlingMandelmann.ch, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=11470896

Philippe Rochat: 1996 – 2012

Philippe Rochat, born 1953, had started working at Restaurant Hôtel de Ville in 1980. He became head chef in 1989 and married marathon runner Franziska Moser, Switzerland’s best one, in 1995. Only seven years later, she died in an avalanche. Philippe Rochat was not granted a long life either. In 2015, he fainted when bicycling and died too.

To his merits at Restaurant Hôtel de Ville, he kept to the three-flavor rule, his predecessor had established. Yet he made his butter and cream based cuisine lighter. When he took over from Frédy Girardet in 1996, it was not easy for him. There were days when no guest showed up at his restaurant, although he did everything the same way as before. From what I read, he seemed to be a quick-tempered person yet one that meant well. Soon, success returned. After 16 years as head of restaurant, he stepped down in 2012.

By Christophe95 – Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=32010668

Benoît Violier: 2012 – 2016

Then it was up to Benoît Violier, a Frenchman, born 1971. He had worked together with Philippe Rochat since 1996. After becoming sous chef in 1999, he took the reins at Restaurant Hôtel de Ville in Crissier together with his wife Brigitte 13 years later. While he was deeply attached to the dining-spot’s values, he also drew on simple flavors spawned by best seasonal produce. In addition, he was a passionate hunter and perfected Philippe Rochat’s game menu.

Unfortunately, his time as head of the dining-spot was short. In 2016, he committed suicide, without leaving a farewell letter. There were rumors that he had allegedly been the victim of a million-dollar wine scam. Yet there was no confirmation of this. His widow Brigitte continued the business and oversaw the dining room management. Franck Giovannini, the former sous chef, took over as chef. In 2018, she stepped down and Franck Giovannini became responsible for the whole restaurant.

Von Schnäggli – Eigenes Werk, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=39407706

Frank Giovannini: 2016 – today

Franck Giovannini, born 1974, said once that Benoît Violier had been more than his boss and his colleague for many years. He pointed out that he also had been his best friend. Franck Giovannini began at Restaurant Hôtel de Ville back in 1995. He had stayed loyal to it for 25 years, only interrupted by two years in Boston.

As to his style of cooking, he still respects the principle of only three flavors on the plate. In addition, he puts emphasis on using more local products, offering more “vegetarian only” dishes and reducing the butter in his creations. The fourth three-star Michelin chef in Crissier still uses traditional techniques. Everything is made à la minute. There is no cooking meat at low temperatures such as with the sous vide method. But of course, he constantly evolves and improves everything he makes. He wants to surprise with flavors, not with spectacles, yet he points out that aesthetics are also important.

As to Franck Giovannini’s personality, I can say that he seems to be an amiable, affable person. After our dinner at Restaurant Hôtel de Ville in Crissier he came to each and every table, shaked hands with all his guests and talked to them. He vividly told the one or other thing and asked whether the portions were sufficient – which we could affirm.

That was it to the Restaurant Hôtel de Ville de Crissier’s intriguing story … We will see what the future does hold in store for this iconic place! Now to some practical aspects and to the experience when having dinner here.

photo credit by Hôtel de Ville Crissier Switzerland

Securing a reservation at Restaurant Hôtel de Ville in Crissier

Getting a table at Restaurant Hôtel de Ville in Crissier does not seem to be an easy thing right now. From what I hear, they are fully booked twice a day at the moment for the foreseeable future. And if you want to have a reservation on a Saturday evening, you have to wait until next summer to receive one! As the chef let us know on our visit they had never been so busy so far. Maybe that has something to do with the “revenge travel/dining phenomenon” … Be it as it may, you definitely have to make your booking at Restaurant Hôtel de Ville in Crissier well in advance as they are much in demand at the present moment!

I imagine it is even more difficult to secure a seat at the Franck Giovannini Guests’ Table. It is located in the kitchen and comprises of six seats. Sitting here allows you to watch all the action inhere. This must be impressive as 24 chefs are at work, all with their “toque et torchon”. To receive one of these extremely popular seats you have to get in touch with the restaurant by phone.

photo credit by Hôtel de Ville Crissier Switzerland

Where to stay when dining at Restaurant Hôtel de Ville in Crissier

I mentioned it, Crissier is a somewhat humble town. It is neither touristy nor affluent. So, there are no options to stay in style here. And Restaurant Hôtel de Ville is not a hotel as one might assume from its name. The fact is that a hôtel de ville is a town hall and not a lodging option.

The best thing when having dinner at Restaurant Hôtel de Ville is to look for an accommodation in Lausanne.

It is Switzerland’s forth largest city with quite a few of upscale hotels. Check out my guide to luxury hotels in Switzerland as to accommodations here. For details to two of them, check out my correspondent blogposts: Hotel Beau-Rivage Palace (my post)

and Hotel Royal Savoy (my post).

This time our choice fell on Hotel Royal Savoy (our second stay) as we wanted to take the bus on the way to Restaurant Hôtel de Ville in Crissier. And for this purpose, it is more conveniently located than Hotel Beau-Rivage Palace. In addition, we had a recent stay (our second too) at the latter. If you feel adventurous enough to go for the bus option, you need about 30 minutes to reach the dining-spot. The bus station (Délices) is directly in front of the hotel. There is no direct connection, you need to change the bus once. When arriving at Crissier Centre you leave the bus, and the restaurant is one minute away.

If you want to save yourself trouble and prefer the car over the bus, take a taxi or a Uber. My husband and I did the latter on the way back to the hotel. You need about 13 minutes for the drive.

How is it dining at Restaurant Hôtel de Ville in Crissier

Location/Ambiance

Once arrived at your destination you find yourself in front of a quite impressive historical building.

It is located in the town center. Under the sign of HOTEL DE VILLE you find another one with the chef’s name, FRANCK GIOVANNINI, that is clearly stated above the entrance. You are friendly welcomed by a team member. While waiting the reservation to be checked you already note the host of servers in charge. The hallway is bustling with activity! Imagine, 58 persons work here at Restaurant Hôtel de Ville in Crissier …

In terms of dining rooms there are two of them. The smaller is named Room Frédy Girardet,

photo credit by Hôtel de Ville Crissier Switzerland

the larger Room Philippe Rochat.

photo credit by Hôtel de Ville Crissier Switzerland

In addition, there is also the Private Room Benoît Violier, the Franck Giovannini Guests’ Table – as mentioned above – and The Smokehouse (for having a cigar).

Once my husband and I were seated in the Room Philippe Rochat, there was time to have a look around. It is a gorgeously elegant room kept in subdued hues. What I found striking were the oval sideboards in various sizes and the modern chandelier in the same form. We liked the chairs, which were not only comfortable but also nice to look at.

Staff/Wine list

As I already let you know, staff is plentiful. All are dressed in dark suits. There is a permanent coming and going of servers and sommeliers. This happens in relative quietude, you do not hear any loud words. And do not expect them to chat with you. They explain the dishes to you, in few words and not in many details. To sum up, service here is rather subtle and understated.

After the (almost) obligatory glass of champagne, there was no more talk of wines by the glass. A wine pairing did not come up neither. Not that we asked about it. Everyone around us ordered bottles or half bottles of wine. And so we did this too. It goes without saying that wine prices are high but this should not come as a surprise. A bit unfortunate is the fact that the wine list cannot be found online. If you do not want to break the bank, quite a few good Swiss white wines seemed somewhat competitively priced (around 100 SFR/US$).

Food menu

You can make your choice out of an à la carte menu or two multi-course menus. As to the former, starters are available from 70 to 120 SFR/US$, fish dishes from 90 to 120 SFR/US$ and meat courses from 90 to 110 SFR/US$. Cheese from the cart amounts to 40 SFR/US$, desserts are available between 30 and 45 SFR/US$.

As to the multi-course menus, you can opt either for the Discovery Menu at 315 SFR/US$, consisting of eight dishes, or the Gastronomic Menu. This costs 390 SFR/US$ and has ten courses, known to the guests. My husband and I went for the Discovery Menu where the kitchen decides what to serve. We let the server know that we would not like Veal Sweetbread as main – it was on the à la carte menu. He assured us that this was not planned for our menu. So, that was no problem.

If you should be interested in knowing how many dishes we got from the à la carte menu, all but two (rillettes of perch fillet and pre-dessert – apricot and hazelnuts – were part of it. Compared with the Gastronomic Menu, three were identical (cheese was one of them). In the following, you find the details to each and every course.

Discovery Menu (8 courses at 315 SFR/US$)

In contrast to the Gastronomic Menu, you will get here surprise dishes, as indicated above.

1. Rillettes of perch fillet

If you wonder about rillettes, this is meat or fish – as here – , chopped or shredded and preserved. Compared to pâté, it is less smooth and made with other than organ meat. As to the perch, this is the most popular local fish, but unfortunately it is rare too. So, doing it as rillettes seems to be a good way of preparing it. They came with a Dézaley wine sauce and were served with crunchy fennel and black pearls (caviar).

2. Bouchot mussels

Bouchot mussels stem exclusively from France. They are small, meaty and have a yellow or orange flesh. At Restaurant Hôtel de Ville de Crissier this high-quality shellfish is obtained from Brittany. On our dinner, they were cooked “marinière” with Chasselas wine plus basil and paired with local zucchini.

3. Summer mushrooms

There were three small crepes with a mushroom placed on each. Shavings from Jura bacon plus a smooth gourmet emulsion with Pinot Gris wine completed the dish.

4. Back of brill

The meaty brill belongs to the same family as the more known turbot. Here in Crissier, they roast the back of brill on the bone. After that, the server debones it at the table

and arranges it with cucumber and tomatoes as well as with a tomato reduction on plates.

5. Langoustines

Langoustines from France are combined with local beans in this dish. The shellfish is seasoned with coral and it is accompanied by a a carcass oil (instead of a traditional sauce).

6. Lamb

Fillet of lamb from the canton of Grisons (Alps), wrapped with farmhouse bacon, was served alongside a gourmet jus on the basis of basil and pesto.

7. Cheese selection

A cart was rolled to the table, and you could make your choice out of an immense selection of cheeses of perfect ripeness.

Of course bread was another part of this course. By the way, it is made for the restaurant by a nearby bakery they own. There is a fine array of rolls, which are a feast for the eyes and the stomach. And the server was generous as to serving sizes. He did not arrange the cheese portions on the plate in a way that you got the impression that you should stop after three of them.

8. Apricot pre-dessert and peach dessert

Apricots in unison with caramelized hazelnuts and white chocolate made the start. They were followed by a white peaches meringue flavored with candied cherry pulp and citrus peels.

Overall performance

First to the food, which is of course always the most important thing when dining-out. And it goes without saying that expectations were high with such a highly decorated place as Restaurant Hôtel de Ville de Crissier. And I can say that they delivered food wise! When coming here you are in for classic French cuisine. Though it is a modernized version of it where the use of butter and cream was reduced. In addition, constant evolution and advancement is an ongoing process at this gourmet temple. Yet the cuisine’s centerpiece remains, first-rate French cuisine deeply rooted in its traditions without neglecting modern trends.

When dining here, expect immaculately done food made with best ingredients and artistically presented. The cuisine impresses with flavor and sophistication, not with spectacle and wizardy. If you look for perfectly executed dishes, this is your place. However, if you are a fan of gimmicks and show effects, Crissier might not be your first choice. I have very rarely had creations so far where everything blended so magnificently as at Restaurant Hôtel de Ville in Crissier. Not only the number of flavors (not more than three) was just right but every one of them had its time to shine. And the portions were big enough so that a taste sensation could develop.

When having a look at other aspects than food, the whole shebang, there is not much that you will keep in memory forever. Everything is perfectly orchestrated, from the welcome, the dinner sequence to the farewell, yet done with (elegant) restraint. The only one who seemed approachable was the chef himself when showing up after dinner to shake hands and to have some words with his guests.

It seems that the food is in the center, and everything has to submit to it. What I missed at the end of the evening were not the absent goodies – never mind – but a print-out of our menu, remember, we had the surprise menu!

Date of visit: September 2022

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UPDATE: new management as from fall 2022 (boutique collection by Andreas Caminada, 2-star Michelin chef Silvio Germann)

Only recently I came across a gourmet retreat that I had not yet heard of. This is about Mammertsberg, a Michelin starred restaurant complete with a few stylish rooms, near Saint Gallen in Switzerland’s northeast. On the way home from the “Swiss south”, my husband and I were looking for a place to stay and dine in style for one night. When we found a vacancy at this luxury boutique hotel, we seized the chance and booked a culinary indulgence offer. And we came to the conclusion that this stay at the gourmet Hotel Mammertsberg was the perfect way to end our early summer vacations!

About the Lake Constance area

If you are interested in some (brief) details what awaits you in the Lake Constance area in terms of region and things to do, have a look at my overview post about our latest vacation.

As to places where to go here for gourmet experiences, please refer to my list about restaurants to choose when traveling Switzerland (Fine dining directory Switzerland, part two, canton of Saint Gallen and canton of Appenzell). When writing it at the time, I did not realize that there are also recommended nearby dining-spots in the canton of Thurgau. So I missed the fabulous gourmet Hotel Mammertsberg. For sure, I will include it on this list’s next revision!

Now to what to expect when staying and dining at this foodie hideaway. First, I will go into lodging.

Staying at the gourmet Hotel Mammertsberg

Location

The gourmet Hotel Mammertsberg is idyllically located in the suburban community of Freidorf/Roggwil, 7 km/4.4 mi from Saint Gallen. The latter is the one and only city in the northeast of Switzerland. From here you can reach the luxury boutique hotel with gourmet restaurant in 11 minutes by train (the train station Roggwil-Berg is just across the street from the accommodation). By car you need a bit more than ten minutes.

From the hotel, you have splendid views of Lake Constance as well of the Appenzell and the Austrian Alps. And you are in the middle of beautiful nature with lots of apple trees and farmland.

History/Facilities

The historic part of gourmet Hotel Mammertsberg, the timber-framed building, is more than 100 years old. It used to be a country inn ever since it was built and this until 2006. From then on, it had been empty. And this until 2010, when Juerg Maurer, an investor living in the immediate neighborhood, bought it.

He asked Tilla Theus, a specialized architect for historical hotel renovations, to reconstruct it as boutique hotel and gourmet restaurant. She returned the house to its original form using old photos and postcards. The architect added a new building, too, the so-called Monolith. The two parts are connected by a passageway. Here you find the kitchen, in the shade of bamboo canes. One floor below, there is an event room.

While guest rooms and restaurant (35 – 60 seats) are in the historic part, the new modern building houses additional room for 35 more seats. It is a cut stone construction, glazed on two sides.

There also is a wonderful terrace and a panoramic garden where you can enjoy the beautiful vista. The view ranges from Lake Constance to Friedrichshafen (Germany) and Voralberg (Austria).

Furthermore, there is a state-of-the-art wine cellar, the Lounge

– which you reach by an impressive staircase from the restaurant – ,

and the Esprit-Lounge with a walk-in humidor.

6 guest rooms to stay in style

As mentioned, there are six guest rooms to choose from. You find here two suites (40 sqm, as from 450 SFR/US$), one junior suite (?) and two double rooms (23 to 24 sqm, 360 SFR/US$). As to the vista, I recommend going for a lake view accommodation (Bodensee). The second-best choice in my opinion are the rooms with partial lake view (Saentis). The least favorite pick in terms of vista are the ones toward the train station (Haselwald).

When we had made our booking, there was only one room left, the Suite Haselwald (40 sqm).

It consists of two rooms and a spacious bathroom, the latter with a window where you can catch a glimpse of the lake.

Otherwise, the suite faces the train station, which is not too busy yet party goers coming home in the early morning might be a pain (as we found out). The accommodation is well appointed in a modern style, my husband and I were fond of it.

Hosts/Ambiance

The hosts here are Luisa and August Minikus. They are born in the area, but both are widely traveled. She, trained in hotel management, used to be a flight attendant with the former Swissair. He, a chef, soon set off to the Philippines and Australia to perfect his cooking skills.

Before coming here, they run a restaurant in nearby Arbon. Luisa Minikus is responsible for the service and she is a sommeliere, too. And August Minikus is still a chef, and since 2015, the restaurant has been awarded a Michelin star.

The gourmet Hotel Mammertsberg is a chic place, that is for sure. Yet the ambiance is pleasant. My husband and I agreed that we have rarely been at a hotel with such a feel-good vibe. Everyone we met was amiable, accommodative and helpful. And it seemed to come from the heart. We appreciated the warm welcome from Vanessa Schudel, the management assistant, and the excellent service at dinner, overseen by Simon Wyss. Also Luisa and August Minikus appeared to be the perfect hosts!

Dining at Mammertsberg, a Michelin starred establishment

Dinner at the gourmet Hotel Mammertsberg is a big deal. When I first caught sight of the dining room, called Escale, I was intrigued by its beauty. Not only it is stunningly restored to its original glory, but there also are modern elements that complemented it perfectly. First of all, I think of the elegant spiral staircase that leads to the Lounge. It is covered in hammered aluminium, a real eye-catcher. And you can enjoy the lake view from all tables, which are placed in the room with generous spacing to the next ones.

When the weather permits it, you can have your meal on the beautiful terrace, with this stunning Lake Constance vista!

The weather was not kind enough to us on our evening, so we dined indoors. However, we could have breakfast – which was fabulous – in the outdoor area.

As to the food, we had booked the Mammertsberg’s special indulgence offer. This included the costs for the room, breakfast, fruits and sweets in the room, five-course gourmet menu, pre-dinner drink, wine pairing, mineral water and coffee. And that amounted to 940 SFR/US$ per room and night, which we found reasonably priced.

The cuisine is classic French with a healthy dose of modernity. The restaurant has one Michelin star and 17 points Gault Millau. As to the individual courses, you will find the details below. In this context I have to admit that I operated my camera incorrectly, so that a large part of the food pictures were deleted. Sorry, I can only provide those from the cheese and the dessert. In case you want to see more dinner pictures, have a look at the post from a fellow blogger couple (of another meal).

6-course indulgence menu at gourmet Hotel Mammertsberg (180 SFR/US$)

Now to our dinner, which was outstanding! And the wine pairing was great, too. Five course were included in the special indulgence offer, my husband and I decided to have all the courses, so we had to pay extra for one course.

Carabineros (prawns) accompanied by calamansi, mango, broccoli and sweet potatoes made the beginning. Next was mackerel in unison with cucumber, radish, wasabi and apple. A pasta course followed, pappardelle (wide noodles) paired with apricot, pines, artichokes and chanterelles. The main course was prime entrecôte with mustard, pearl onions, champignons and tarte flambée.

Before dessert, a well-stocked cheese cart was wheeled to our table and we could make our choice. They served it with a regional specialty, Schlorzifladen, a tarte with dried pear paste.

For dessert we got regional strawberries (from the canton of Thurgau, the best ones in Switzerland) and they came in combination with vanilla, almonds, elder and meringues.

Right after serving the petit fours,

the chef went from table to table and briefly chatted with the diners, a nice touch!

Overall

If you look for a boutique hotel for a short luxury stay with Michelin dining near Saint Gallen in Switzerland’s northeast, then you cannot go wrong with the gourmet Hotel Mammertsberg. In case you are a lover of beautiful buildings too, all the better, because it is an architectural marvel!

And the lake view here is grandiose, the same is true for the hospitality. The only downer here was the location just by the train station where there were noisy party goers returning late in the night. But of course you cannot blame the hotel for that. My advice here, opt for room with view of Lake Constance!

Not so good news has just reached me, the Minikus couple will end their lease of Mammertsberg at the end of April 2022. As  it seems, for reasons of age. So plan a stay and dinner here while you still can!

Date of stay: July 2021

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The news about The Chedi Andermatt Hotel coming to a fairly untouched village in the Swiss Alps was as a total surprise! Without exaggeration, almost everyone familiar with the business was astonished to hear that Andermatt should get an ultra-luxury hotel. But never mind, this announcement of Samih Sawiris, the investor, was good news! Eight years afterwards, The Chedi opened its doors in late 2013. And what you can see, is impressive! It is neither an Alpine chalet building nor a modern construction. Instead Alpine chic goes hand in hand with Asian influences.

While I followed the developments around The Chedi Andermatt, it took my husband and me another eight years until staying here. And that is not without reason! In winter, we considered Andermatt’s skiing infrastructure as insufficient. In summer, we found that there are more appealing places to go in view of the rather harsh climate here. And most important, the hotel’s pricing is quite steep.

In the meantime, many things changed. First, the ski resort developed into a first-rate one. Second, it became a year-round destination thank to its golf-course, which seems to be state-of-the-art – I am not a golfer. And third, we came upon a special two-day offer including a dinner with wines for the summer season. So, we gave it a try.

About Sawiris’ one billion investment in Andermatt

After long being a staging post at Switzerland’s most important north-south route, Andermatt fell into a fairy tale sleep. And this with the opening of the Gotthard Road Tunnel in 1980. The Alpine village has found itself bypassed ever since. Two decades later, rescue came into the form of Samih Sawiris, an Egyptian businessman and billionaire. He promised to turn the sleepy ski village into an ultra-luxury ski destination. And he kept his word. At least, he laid the foundation for success.

Andermatt, blessed with lots of austere mountain appeal, is back on the touristic map. It started with the 300 million SFR/US$ construction of The Chedi Hotel and Residences. In late 2013, the hotel part with 123 rooms opened. Other buildings, convention facilities, a swimming hall and a 18-hole golf course followed. Once the project is finished, there shall be 6 hotels, 490 apartments in 42 buildings, about 20 chalets and a concert hall. In the meantime, the four-star Radisson Blue Hotel Reussen has opened its doors, too (end of 2018, 244 rooms).

Furthermore, the ski region was further developed. The Andermatt and the neighboring Sedrun ski area merged and became the SkiArena Andermatt-Sedrun. Overall, Andermatt’s touristic basic infrastructure is now available. Now, it is important to fill them with life, meaning with lots of paying customers!

I have been curious about the Sawiris’ signature project, the ultra-luxury The Chedi Hotel, ever since it has opened in 2013. Various reasons have hindered my husband and me from staying here so far, but the time has now come! And this on our early summer vacations (see overview article), as stopover on our way to the Ticino, so to say. Here we spent the bigger part of our trip at the fabulous Castello del Sole in Ascona (my blogpost).

Staying at The Chedi Andermatt, an ultra-luxury Alpine resort

Location

Andermatt is an Alpine village at the foot of the Gotthard Pass in the Swiss canton of Uri. You can reach it from Zurich in about one and a quarter of an hour by car. By train you need a bit more than two hours. The climate here is rather harsh, with lots of snow in winter and rain at other times of the year.

Before Sawiris’ mega development, Andermatt was a rather sleepy village with an outdated skiing infrastructure. I explained before how this changed the place. However, Andermatt (1,600 inhabitants) still has an authentic feel, with quite a nice historic center. By no means, it has become a glamorous ski resort just as Saint Moritz or Gstaad. The surroundings exude an austere mountain appeal, resulting from those bare slopes.

The Chedi Andermatt is nestled adjacent the center of the village, right by the train station – where the Glacier Express stops too. And it is not far from the Guetsch-Express mountain railway. While it is not exactly ski-in, ski-out here, it comes close to that.

Facilities/Memberships

The offer here is impressive, from a state-of-the art spa (spread over 2,400 sqm) with several indoor

and outdoor pools,

four restaurants (see more about food in the separate section) as well as four more places for drinks and small bites (The Bar

and The Living Room,

The Lobby, The Courtyard – weather permitting –

as well as The Pool – a pool bar). In addition, there is The Wine Library – an event location –

and The Cigar Library – for cigar lovers.

And best of all, everything you encounter here is utterly beautiful, made from the best materials. If you catch sight of the exteriors the first time, it is hard to pin down the architecture style. It has something of an Alpine building yet it is not your typical chalet. For me, the building’s rather simple form is most reminiscent of the typical barns you see here in the area. Quite special is the slatted wooden double facade that “hides” the balconies.

There are three main wings that are centered around a splendide courtyard, a pond in summer, an ice rink in winter.

As to memberships,  The Chedi Andermatt is part of the GHM (General Hotel Management Ltd.) luxury hotel group. So far, it mainly consists of Chedi Hotels in the Asian region. The Chedi also belongs to the renown hotel association of The Leading Hotels of the World. Furthermore, it is a member of Swiss Deluxe Hotels.

Ambiance

As to the interiors, the layout is incredibly generous but without making the impression of being too vast. Everything has been thoroughly thought out. The reception desk is made of a huge granite block that seamlessly becomes a bar where you could have a drink. At its very end, you are already in the the lobby bar. And adjacent to it, you can have a look at the indoor pool, only separated from the lobby by a glass wall.

And the decor is breathtakingly attractive, local stone, wood and leather in dark tones! While the hotel has an Alpine vibe, it definitely is Asian influenced, too. At almost every corner, you find a fireplace, there are more than 200 totally!

Service

Service is as excellent as you would expect at a hotel of this caliber. Maybe it was not especially personal, but that is difficult to reach in a hotel with 123 rooms. So everything was as it should be.

There is one thing that I found somewhat unusual in this context. At the hotel entrance, there was a small note asking the guests not to take photos from public spaces. I only discovered it when I had already done all my pictures. So it was too late for me anyway. And they did not give any reason for this request. I do understand that you should not post any photos where you can recognize guests. But otherwise, I cannot see the point.

Guest rooms

There are 123 rooms in five categories (Deluxe Rooms, Grand Deluxe Rooms, Junior Deluxe Suites, Deluxe Suites, Grand Deluxe Suites) plus three extra large suites. The standard room – which is far from being basic – is big (52 to 55 sqm) and the Grand Deluxe Suite is huge (110 sqm). You see, the Chedi Andermatt plays in another league! Even the least expensive room – which is far from being inexpensive – is a “temple of luxury”.

In terms of rates, prices vary much, depending on the season, the weekday and the demand. The absolute high season is end of December/beginning of January, another peak is in February/beginning of March. In summer, prices are more modest. The lowest rate I found was in November, midweek (425 SFR/US$). This is a point of time where neither the golf course nor the ski lifts are in use. In contrast, in the last December week you have to shell out 1,300 SFR/US$ for the standard room.

My husband and I were in Andermatt end of June, when the mountain railways did not run yet. And we stayed over the weekend. We had opted for a special offer, a Gault Millau Dine & Style Package. This included two nights and one four-course menu with wine pairing at The Restaurant plus a 50 SFR spa credit per person and stay. We had not chosen the standard room but one category higher, the Grand Deluxe Room. Find the room details in the following.

Grand Deluxe Room at The Chedi Andermatt

Description

The Grand Deluxe Room is exactly the same as the standard room, the Deluxe Room. The only difference is its location. While the Deluxe Room is on lower floors, the Grand Deluxe Room is on upper floors. And this is quite an advantage, in my opinion. Because I caught sight of many rooms on lower floors with not very attractive views. In terms of vista, we were very lucky! Our room was in the higher middle wing with stunning views of the pond at our feet and the Urseren valley in the distance!

And I have to say that there are lots of vistas at The Chedi that I consider as not so good, be in the direction of the street or the station.

Every room at The Chedi comes with a glass-fronted fireplace that can be watched either from the inside or from the balcony.

The latter, by the way, offers no privacy at all, which is a pity. Otherwise, the room is truly gorgeous.

From the wooden and stone floors and walls, the sofa running the entire length of one wall complete with a giant Alpine photo mural, the fabulous bathroom with a freestanding bathtub and huge rain showers to the low Japanese-style table in the room’s center. What a beauty of a room! And only with the best materials imaginable!

With regard to the pricing, it did not come inexpensive, which should not be surprising. At the time of booking, the special offer that included dining & wining on one night cost just as much as the best available rate with breakfast (1,217 SFR/US$ per day and room). This is super-pricey, and I am not completely sure whether this rate is justified for what you get. Beauty is not everything!

What else you need to know about the room

Despite my enthusiasm about the room, I have to make a negative point. Also the bed is of the highest quality! They have here Haestens Beds, which are only made of the finest natural materials and are produced by hand. For sure, they must be incredibly expensive! Unfortunately, you do not have a choice at The Chedi as to the bedding. There is only a king size option, so no twin beds available. And although the bed was comfortable, I found it way too bouncy. The motion transfer from one side of the bed to the other was very high. Every time either my husband or I shifted, the other woke up. In case you should be a light sleeper, keep that in mind!

One more thing, if you care for a regular table or even a desk, then you are wrong here. My verdict here, this is form over substance. Rooms are so beautiful yet not necessarily very practical!

Dining at The Chedi Andermatt, an ultra-luxury Alpine resort

I already let you know that that are four restaurants belonging to the Chedi. These are the following ones: the signature place, The Japanese Restaurant with one Michelin star and 16 points Gault Millau; The Restaurant with 14 points Gault Millau, The Chalet (wintertime) and The Japanese by The Chedi Andermatt (the mountain restaurant on Mount Guetsch) with one Michelin star and 14 points Gault Millau.

My husband and I went to the former two. I start with The Restaurant where we had a four-course menu plus wine pairing included in our arrangement.

The Restaurant (14 points Gault Millau) 

This is the main restaurant where they also serve breakfast. The dining room is huge with four show kitchens where you can watch the chefs at work.

The highlight here is the phenomenal Cheese Tower where you can help yourself in the morning and the server arranges a cheese dish for you in the evening.

The place has a modern feel, and everything here is high-end.

While the atmosphere in here is a bit impersonal and the noise level rather on the high side, we felt comfortable. This was also due to the staff who is friendly, informative and efficient.

The food was tasty, a mix of western and Asian cuisine. We liked what we got, compliments to the chef, Armin Egli! We began with an Italian classic, buratina with raw ham, honey tomato, and focaccia.

That was continued with a selection of dim sum.

The main course was surf & turf (beef tenderloin and lobster tail) with black garlic sauce, fennel, radish, cauliflower and saffron potato stones.

And the sweet end point was a pure chocolate variation with sorbet, mousse and brittle.

Also the wine pairing was to our liking!

One remark to the breakfast. While I liked the offerings – especially the cheese from this awesome Cheese Tower – , I was a bit astonished to see that you have to pay extra for dishes just as eggs Benedict or French toast. I think that these must be included in the room rate given the elevated price level at The Chedi.

Now to our dining experience at The Japanese Restaurant.

The Japanese Restaurant (1 star Michelin, 16 points Gault Millau)

In contrast to The Restaurant, The Japanese Restaurant is kept small and exclusive with about 45 seats. You can sit either at the sushi bar or at tables.

On offer here are two menus, a modern Kaiseki-Kappo and an a la carte one. The latter includes Nigiri-sushi, Uramaki-sushi and sashimi. You can also opt for dishes from the Kaiseki-Kappo menu as a la carte choices, either as an appetizer or a main course. For meat lovers you find Wagyu and Kobe (as main dishes) on the menu, too.

The kitchen is helmed not by a Japanese, but the Swiss born Dietmar Saywere. Since he was three years old, he had been living abroad. He returned 2013 and became executive chef at the Widder Hotel in Zurich before he was hired by The Chedi in 2015.

If you should wonder about the difference between Kaiseki and Kaiseki-Kappo, the latter is less formal and elaborate. The Kaiseki-Kappo menu at The Japanese Restaurant comprises 20 dishes to choose from. You can select either 4, 5 or six 6 courses (170, 200 or 230 SFR/US$). While 17 of them change on a regular basis, apparently three of them stay (forever) as they are the owner’s favorites (sashimi hamachi; sea scallop carpaccio with shiso, Kaviari Kristal caviar and beurre blanc; black cod with yuzu-miso sauce).

As to Dietmar Saywere’s style of cooking Japanese, find details in the next chapter, where I describe our five-course dinner. It is not really authentic but an Europeanized version of it, that much can be said.

Five-course modern Kaiseki-Kappo menu

We started both with some sort of a tuna variation (Balfego “Harumaki style”, Akami and Toro tuna with Sumiso sauce),

followed by sea scallop carpaccio with shiso, Kaviari Kristal caviar and beurre blanc.

Then my husband had udon noodles with Swiss shrimp and black truffle, Odamaki Mushi style (savory custard cup). I chose the black cod with white asparagus, Gottard-Shiitake and yuzo-miso sauce.

For mains, he decided to have the pork belly “Kakiage” (some kind of tempura style) in unison with smoked eel, shiso, sweetcorn and spicy ponzu. I for myself wanted to try the Teppanyaki duck breast paired with a gyoza (dumpling), hispi cabbage and a teriyaki-duckliver sauce.

In terms of dessert, my husband ordered a Japanese cheesecake with yuzu-sake jelly, coconut, raspberries and hibiscus. I opted for the green tea creme brûlée with Adzuki beans and green tea ice cream.

And how did we like it? If you care for truly authentic Japanese Kaiseki cuisine, then you probably will not be overly enthusiastic about it. But in case you are fond of well-made, creative Japanese food European inspired, then you are in the right spot here. I very much liked the chef’s modern interpretations of the Japanese cuisine. The innovative dishes are based on the Japanese aesthetics but incorporate classic French influences as well.

Quite in contrast to Japan, the dishes were rather filling. So, we struggled to finish our desserts, which serving sizes were quite generous. After four savory courses, one sweet one to share between us would definitely have been enough.

Overall

There was no expense spared in the construction of The Chedi Andermatt. Everywhere your eye goes, it finds beauty, be it in the state-of-the-art guest rooms or the grandiose public spaces. Even the least expensive accommodation – which is anything but inexpensive – has an exceptional standard. And the facilities are first-rate too, from the spectacular spa to the excellent dining-venues. The Chedi has really set a new benchmark of hotel luxury in Switzerland!

Having said that, there are downsides, too. I have already mentioned the high price level. While I understand that ultra-luxury lodging is going to cost you, there are apparent inconsistencies. If you pay a small fortune for a room, you do not only want it luxuriously appointed but also coming with a great view. And the choice here is not yours as each unit costs the same, independent from the vista. Best views in my opinion are the ones of the courtyard pond on upper levels. Not so good ones are those of the Gotthardstrasse and the Bahnhofstrasse.

Another drawback is the fact that there is no selection in terms of bedding. All the rooms feature king beds of the renown high-end Haestens brand. While they might be suitable for most people, they are way too bouncy for light sleepers. And you cannot evade them as there are no twin beds available.

And finally, there is no half board option available, which might come handy for longer stays. This is quite common in Switzerland, especially at hotels in ski resorts, which Andermatt definitely is. In the absence of this, costs for food and drink (wine prices are extremely high) will pile up quickly.

Date of stay: June 2021

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If I had to make a list of my favorite luxury hotels in Switzerland, then Castello del Sole Ascona in the canton of Ticino would rank in the top positions! There is no other lodging in my home country offering so much seclusion and room to breathe! It is wonderfully set on a beautiful piece of land directly on Lake Maggiore. Also the facilities are immaculate complete with a Michelin starred restaurant. And the staff knows its stuff, too. No wonder, my husband and I chose this fabulous place for our early summer vacation! And imagine it has just been named Hotel of the Year 2022 by Gault Millau Switzerland!

Before coming to the Castello del Sole Ascona itself, a few remarks to the Ticino, where to go for high-end accommodation here and some more details about two stops we did on the way to the Ticino.

Ticino & two overnight stops on the way

When living in Switzerland’s northwest, there is actually no need to do an overnight stop on your way to the “Swiss south”. My home country is small and you can reach every other spot in a few hours’ drive. Notwithstanding that, we felt like spicing it up a bit. After all, we had already been to the Ticino in last November and September – thanks to Corona, so “Swisscations” only!

Hence, we used the opportunity to try out two hotels that were new to us. On the one hand, we spent two nights at the ultra-luxury The Chedi Hotel Andermatt (my post) in the Alps just by the Gotthard Pass.

On the other hand, we made a detour to the northeastern part of Switzerland to stay one night at a gourmet retreat, the stylish boutique hotel Mammertsberg, (my post), close to Saint Gallen.

Ticino, Italianità made in Switzerland

My husband and I like going to the Ticino, as many other Swiss Germans and Germans. It is the place in my home country where you feel like you are in the Mediterranean.

Here you have the choice between Lugano

or Locarno

resp. Ascona

to spend some time in the subtropical landscape. While Lugano on Lake Lugano is the largest town in this Swiss canton featuring a nice old town and numerous mountains with splendid viewpoints, Locarno is smaller (and more touristy). The same is true for Ascona, a neighboring village. And both are located on Lake Maggiore. Ascona is a truly idyllic spot, boasting an enchanting historic core and a picturesque lakeside piazza.

Luxury hotels in Ticino

When deciding not to leave Switzerland for summer vacations, the Ticino usually is top of the list for my husband and me. So, we have stayed at many of the luxury hotels in the area. And of course I have written several blogposts about this subject, too. For an overview of accommodations here, have a look at “A guide to luxury hotels in Switzerland, part two“. If you look for more specific information about Lugano’s high end lodging, please refer to “Where to stay & dine in style in Lugano, Switzerland“. In case you want to go to Ascona, check out “Hotel Eden Roc, one of three top luxury hotels in Ascona, Switzerland“.

While the latter focuses on Hotel Eden Roc Ascona – where we were last year – ,

I will now go into Hotel Castello del Sole Ascona. This is the accommodation in the Ticino where we have stayed most. I have counted, we have been here for the seventh time! However, our last visit here was in 2014. So, I was excited to see what has changed since then.

Staying in style at Hotel Castello Del Sole Ascona 

Location

As pointed out already, the setting is spectacular. The site includes 140 hectares! And this in the small country of Switzerland where many things are close together! So, if you like lots of personal space and privacy, as I do, this is the place to go. The 11-hectare-park with artfully scattered lounge chairs, hammocks and quiet corners is one of the biggest attractions at the sun castle (the translation of Castello del Sole).

And you are directly by Lake Maggiore. There is a beautiful private beach with – you know by now – lots of room to breathe.

The hotel is only one part of the whole property. In addition, there is a farm – Terreni alla Maggia – where they produce wine and rice, amongst other things.

And there is a bird sanctuary as well, given the location right by the fertile Maggia river delta. To reach Ascona’s center you can use either the hotel shuttle, borrow one of the many hotel’s own bicycles or go by foot. It is a lovely forty-minute walk along the lakeshores.

History/Memberships

The property’s history goes back to 1540, when it was built as a traditional Lombardian manor house. Emil Georg Buehrle bought it in 1942 and nowadays it is owned by the Anda and Franz-Buehrle families. There have been severals expanses of buildings since the first one’s construction.

Over recent years, more than 30 million SFR/US$ has been spent on modernizations. And there seems to be a “Castello del Sole 2025” innovation plan in order to safeguard the site’s unique qualities. We will see what the future brings in this respect!

As the membership to hotel groups is concerned, the Castello del Sole Ascona is part of The Living Circle. It stands for four hotels, two farms and two other restaurants (not at a hotel). And the farms’ produce goes to the associated houses. Following hotels belong to this hotel group, all of them are luxury ones. Apart from the Castello del Sole Ascona there are three hotels in Zurich, Hotel Alex Lake, Hotel Widder and Hotel Storchen. If you want to know more about them, check out my blogpost about staying at the Alex Lake

and dining at the Storchen.

Furthermore, the Castello del Sole Ascona also is part of the renown Relais & Châteaux hotel group.

Ambiance/Staff

The Castello del Sole Ascona is one of the largest hotel estates in the Ticino, amidst a huge park and right by the lake. Already arriving here is an experience. When your car sets off down the long driveway, you cannot help but be impressed. After a curve, a gem of a building comes into view, a southern manor house.

There is not only the splendid park but also delightful inner courtyards.

It is an oasis of tranquility that lets your soul feel happy and content. And, what I very much appreciate, the hotel exudes an understated sense of luxury! 

Staff is friendly and professional. It is present when needed, otherwise it is careful to be unobtrusive. In my opinion, service has even become better since my last stay. In the past, there were some headwaiters who were rather on the dominant side. They have retired in the meantime and I like their successors better. There is one more thing to mention in this context. The hosts used to say goodbye in person upon departure. This seems no longer to be the case. But times changed, also because of Corona of course.

Facilities

Onsite you find a range of four restaurants and two bars. Find more details in the separate chapter about dining in style at the Castello del Sole Ascona.

As to wellness, there is a 2,500 sqm spa with everything you can think of in this respect: two saunas, steam bath, hydropool, swimming pool, Kneipp trail, solarium, treatment rooms, hairdresser’s. Furthermore, there is an indoor/outdoor pool plus a jacuzzi.

In terms of other activities, there is more to do: jogging trail, outdoor and indoor tennis courts, free bicycles, beach, water sports/stand-up paddleboarding/motorboat/pedalos (all water activities are chargeable, swimming of course not). For children there is a kids club, a new playground and some animals onsite.

And let me make one more remark as to (sun)bathing. You can either be by the pool, which is adjacent to the hotel building,

or by the beach, which is a five-minute-walk through the park.

And there is much of space available in both areas. If you insist on laying on the sand beach, the space can be a bit tight at certain times. But if you do not, then I can assure you that there is more room than you need on the grass (on sun loungers of course).

78 rooms in three buildings

There are guest accommodations in the main building, where you find 57 rooms, mostly junior suites and double/single rooms (from 438 SFR/US$). This is also where we stayed on our recent visit. We had booked a gorgeous newly renovated Deluxe Junior Suite

in the hotel’s historic part (50 – 57 sqm, from 918 SFR/US$).

Our corner room came with three mini balconies and – unfortunately – a not so good air-conditioner. Go for one that is not located at the end of the building, if you want to avoid this. But otherwise, we enjoyed it here with lots of natural light. However, be prepared that the bathroom might not be overly spacious. After all, it is the most ancient part of the property.

My favorite place to stay at the Castello del Solo Ascona is the Retreat Pavilion (from 1,118 SFR/US$).

Though, be advised, the rooms here will need to be updated in the years to come. Notwithstanding that, they are still a great choice! Situated a bit away from the reception and the restaurants, they are an oasis of calm. The 11 junior suites  (78 sqm) and the two luxury suites (145 sqm) are housed in a Lombardic country estate complete with a lovely courtyard rose garden and a splendid cloister like colonnade!

Lying on your terrace’s sun lounger and contemplating the farm land in front of you is such a relaxing thing to do!

The Well-being Suite Pavilion is the hotel’s newest building (from 1,258 SFR/US$). It is home of not only the spa but also of 8 junior suites (108 sqm), two luxury suites (158 sqm) and two duplex suites (201 sqm).

My husband and I have never stayed here, but friends of ours had. While they liked the generous layout with lots of space, they found the views (of the tennis facilities) not overly appealing.

Generally, in whatever direction your vista is, there are much better ones on site. This is due to the building’s location behind the whole hotel complex.

Dining at Hotel Castello Del Sole Ascona

Mattias Roock, a young chef, has been in charge for the hotel’s gastronomy since 2017.

In high season, when the Castello del Sole Ascona is fully booked, he and his team are responsible for 150 guests! And of course, it is a “farm to fork” concept here given the fact there is the Terreni alla Maggia farm on site.

You find here four restaurants to choose from, but some are usually only open for lunch (Ristorante Al Parco)

resp. for an early dinner in the high season (Ristorante La Spiaggia).

As to Ristorante Al Parco, it is the place to go for a leisurely lunch. If you care for it, I recommend opting for the full board option. In this case you get it for a fair additional charge of 40 SFR/US$ per person. And it includes a fabulous antipasti and salad buffet, a choice of meat, fish, pasta or pizza as main course plus a great dessert buffet.

Ristorante La Spiaggia, which is the beach restaurant, is open if the weather permits it. You get here small bites in a relaxed atmosphere. If I am not mistaken, it is open until 8pm in high season only. This is a new addition to the hotel’s culinary offer. On our last visit, there was only a small beach shack.

Now to the two main restaurants, the Ristorante Tre Stagioni, the “half board restaurant”, and the signature dining-spot, the Locanda Barbarossa.

Dinner at Ristorante Tre Stagioni

If you book half board – 55 SFR/US$ per person and day – , then you have breakfast and dinner at Ristorante Tre Stagioni. And this either on the wonderful terrace (whether permitting)

or in the indoor area.

As to the former, it has been enlarged since our last stay. This definitely is a plus because there is more room now for the individual tables and for external guests.

Breakfast takes place here, too. While the offer for the morning meal used to be quite limited at the time, there is now a broad selection of everything you possibly might need to start the day.

As to the dinner, the chef (Mattias Roock) puts together a daily changing menu with four cold starters, two soups, two hot starters, four main courses, cheese and four desserts. The cuisine is Italian with a twist. Some dishes are rather traditional, other are more refined. The restaurant has 15 Gault Millau points. Special here is that the main course is still served from platters. This allows you to make amendments to the quantities served. While it is a nice custom, I find it a bit meaningless as there is no second service (servers immediately clear the plates). In addition, it stresses the staff at certain times and most guests do not wish any changes.

When being on half board, you can order as many courses as you wish. External guests make their selection from the daily offer. My husband and I usually order four courses, a cold starter or a soup, followed by pasta or risotto, then a main course and finally a dessert. Here you find a sample menu.

Typical menu at Ristorante Tre Stagioni

Our first dinner here on our recent stay started with yellow fin tuna tataki with zucchini salad and pepperoni emulsion.

Next were conchiglie riagate (pasta) with mussels and wild fennel.

The main course was meagre fish with lemongrass sauce and vegetables in juliennes strips.

To end the meal, we went for the apricot and almond variation with amaretti ice-cream. And petit fours were also part of the meal.

Overall, it proved to be a deeply satisfying meal, served in a busy atmosphere by amiable staff. The new restaurant manager – Daniele Sardella – does a good job. He is hospitable, efficient and does not push too much into the foreground.

Next follows our dinner’s experience at the resort’s leading culinary spot, the Locanda Barbarossa. To my knowledge, it is not possible to get credit for the half board expenses when deciding to dine here instead at the Ristorante Tre Stagioni. Instead, check out the hotel’s packages, which usually include a 5- or 6-course dinner at the gourmet restaurant. My husband and I had booked the “Castello Experience” that allowed us – amongst other benefits – to have a 5-course dinner at the Locanda Barbarossa on our arrival day.

Dinner at Locanda Barbarossa

Here the “farm to fork” concept is not a marketing tactic, but one delivers on that promise. They harvest what is available on the grounds: yuzu, 20 berry and 22 tomato variations, their own pepper and saffron, risotto rice and much more.

The chef, Mattias Roock, and his restaurant manager, Sergio Bassi, know their stuff. Not only is the cuisine exceptional and truly noteworthy, but everything is perfectly orchestrated. And on our evening, the weather was perfect for dining in the courtyard, the beautiful Cortile Leone.

Yet the indoor area would have been nice, too.

The restaurant has one Michelin star and 18 Gault Millau points. As to the cuisine, it is grounded in the classic French tradition yet heavily influenced by the Mediterranean one. This fact contributes to a pleasant lightness and freshness. And due to the chef’s former workplaces, there is an added Asian and oriental touch. We loved it! And we liked it much better than the dinner we had here years ago at his predecessor.

Here is what we had …

5-course Menu Degustazione at Locanda Barbarossa

After a seafood amuse bouche

duck foie gras was the star of the first course.

It was paired with apple, black walnuts, apple balsamic vinegar and a brioche with nuts. We proceeded with filled pasta, fagottini with fior di latte ricotta, in unison with Périgord truffle and young vegetables.

Next was lobster blended with Kashmir curry, peas, fruit chutney and coriander.

The main course featured summer deer with celery, bitter orange and bio arabica coffee.

Before it was time for dessert, a refreshing pre-dessert, was served.

The sweet dish, yellow peach, was superb as everything we had here. It was a divine creation made of this stone fruit, verbena, hibiscus and blossom sorbet.

And – of course – the feast was rounded up with some petit fours.

Overall

Do you fancy a Lombardian manor house with expansive green areas in Mediterranean environment by the lake, then I might have a hotel tip for staying in style. If you care for understated luxury, lots of privacy and gourmet dining as well, all the better. You find this and more at the fabulous Castello del Sole Ascona near Locarno in Switzerland’s south, in the canton of Ticino.

I have stayed here a couple of times, the first time some 25 years ago, and just lately. And imagine, the “sun castle” becomes better and better.

Although it was already on a high level. I think for example of the new beach restaurant, the freshly renovated rooms in the hotel’s historic part or the exquisite food at the Michelin starred Locanda Barbarossa. And from what I read, they still have a lot of plans how to beware the property’s unique qualities.

Last date of stay: July 2021

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My latest destination for my early summer vacations was once again my homeland, Switzerland – who is surprised? And Corona could still be blamed. But hey, this beautiful country has such an abundance of travel attractions! As the year before, my husband and I went to the Ticino, Switzerland’s south, looking for near Mediterranean vibes. And there should be two overnight stops en route, one on the way and one on the way back. As always, we wanted it to be a luxury trip with Michelin dining, whenever possible. So we opted for Ascona as our main destination as well as for Andermatt and the Lake Constance area underway. And this because we knew about suitable hotels in those places for staying and dining in style. Yet, we had a luxury Ascona trip in mind in the first place.

What were our choices? In terms of restaurants, we only opted for hotels with gourmet restaurants. So that spared us looking for offsite dining-spots. Before coming to our selected lodging in Ascona, Andermatt and the Lake Constance area, a few words about each of these regions.

Ticino & two overnight stops on the way

Ascona, our main destination, can be reached from the country’s northwest in about two and a half hours’ drive. So there is actually no need to plan on an intermediary stop. But as my husband and I were looking for a change of location and – wanted to try out a specific hotel – , we scheduled a two-night stay in Andermatt.

While this first stop does not require a detour on our way to Ascona, this is a bit different with the one in the Lake Constance area. But as we booked it on short notice, the choice was somewhat limited. So we had a longer drive home. But that was no problem as Switzerland is small. Concretely, you need about two and three quarters of an hour from Ascona to Lake Constance and then another one hour and forty minutes back to Switzerland’s northwest.

1. Ticino, Switzerland’s south, a luxury Ascona trip

As previously reported on my blog, the canton of Ticino is apart from all others in Switzerland. Here people do not only speak Italian, but it is also some kind of Italian Mediterranean within my home country. Think of lots of sunshine, palm trees, water fronts (two lakes), relaxed ambiance and plenty of vacationers, mostly German Swiss or German. And although the Ticino has a bit of Italy, it is decidedly Swiss with all the prejudices that are at least partly true.

Most leisure travelers to the Ticino either go to the Lugano area or the Locarno resp. Ascona one. While Lugano

is the largest town in this Swiss canton featuring a nice old town and numerous mountains with splendid viewpoints, Locarno is smaller (and more touristy).

The same is true for Ascona, a neighboring village. And both places are located on Lake Maggiore. Ascona is a truly idyllic spot, boasting an enchanting historic core and a picturesque lakeside piazza.

The Ticino is one of my favorite vacation spots in my home country. So it is no surprise that you find several posts about it on my blog. Amongst others, I have written about where to stay and dine in style in Lugano (my post) or about all the luxury hotels in Ascona (my post).

2. Andermatt, Swiss Alps

Andermatt is a mountain village (1,437 m/4,715 ft above sea level) at a four-way crossroads, the north-south route (Gotthard Pass) and the west-east one (Furka Pass to west and Oberalp Pass to east).

While this attribute had been an important attribute for a long time, this changed with the opening of the Gotthard Road Tunnel in 1980. As a consequence, Andermatt has been bypassed on the crucial north-south route ever since.

While this Alpine village remained quite popular as a ski resort – snow is almost always guaranteed here in winter – , it otherwise lost importance, from a tourism viewpoint. This is also because the Urseren valley, where Andermatt is located, has a rather harsh climate.

The big change came in 2009, when Samih Sawiris, an Egyptian investor, decided to spend one billion SFR/US$ on the touristic development of Andermatt. First, there was the construction of The Chedi, a five-star superior hotel, and The Chedi Residences.

Then other hotels, vacation homes and mountain railways (SkiArena Andermatt) followed. With the addition of a golf course – seemingly one of the best in Switzerland – , Andermatt became a year-round destination. And Sawiris’ latest coup – and his last one here, as he says – is even a concert hall.

3. Lake Constance area in Switzerland’s northeast

Lake Constance, Central Europe’s third largest lake, straddles three countries, Germany, Austria and Switzerland. The Swiss part is located on the lake’s south-western side and is the country’s most north-eastern area. And it is – maybe in contrast to the German one, which is notably sunnier – not overly touristy.

Having said that, there is a bunch of things to do in the area. Attractions include the Rhine Falls in Schaffhausen (Europes largest waterfall), the Mainau Island (the Flower Island, Germany) or the Abbey Precinct of Saint Gallen.

I have been to the area several times in previous years, be it in Saint Gallen (my post), the largest city in the area, or in Heiden, a picturesque rural place not far from Saint Gallen (my post).

After this information on the areas visited on my early summer vacations, now to our choice of hotels.

3 excellent gourmet hotels in eastern Switzerland 

As outlined, we made a first stop at the mountain resort of Andermatt at the foot of the Saint Gotthard. And of course, we chose the signature’s lodging here, the mentioned ultra-luxury The Chedi (my post). Next was the main thing, a luxury Ascona trip. This was a five-night stay in this former fishing village in the immediate vicinity of Locarno, Ticino’s third-largest town. Here we went for a long time favorite of ours, the luxury hotel Castello del Sole (my report). We have not been here for seven years, and we were excited to see the changes. For our way home via the Lake Constance area, we gave Mammertsberg (my post), a luxury boutique hotel, a try.

Now to some more details to these properties. A full review of each will follow in separate posts.

1. Andermatt: The Chedi (1 Michelin star)

This is undoubtedly one of Switzerland’s most luxury hotels, and one of the country’s most expensive ones! It was opened in 2013 as first hotel of Sawiris’ mega development in Andermatt. And The Chedi is really something special! It is an unusual blend of Swiss Alpine chic and Asian vibe. You would not expect to find such a place in a quaint skiing resort as Andermatt! Every one of the 123 rooms – all at least 52 sqm in size – has its own fireplace. You can choose amongst four restaurants – The Japanese Restaurant has a Michelin star – and the award-winning spa is spread over 2,400 sqm and has indoor and outdoor pools. For details, refer to my report about it.

2. Ascona: Castello del Sole (1 Michelin star)

If you care for privacy and space to breathe, this might be the place for you. The whole complex (with bird sanctuary and farmland) covers 140 hectares! And the Mediterranean stately house with charming courtyards, directly located at the Lake Maggiore, is surrounded by an extensive park (14 hectares). It is a five-star superior property and member of the Relais & Château hotel group. There are 78 rooms in different buildings, a 2,500 sqm spa and four restaurants including the Locanda Barbarossa, which has been awarded a Michelin star. Furthermore, you find at the Castello del Sole several indoor and outdoor pools plus a private beach. Find here my hotel review.

3. Lake Constance: Mammertsberg (1 Michelin star)

UPDATE: new management as from fall 2022 (boutique collection by Andreas Caminada, 2-star Michelin chef Silvio Germann)

The Mammertsberg is a true postcard idyll, housed in a hundred-year-old mansion and overlooking Lake Constance. You find this luxury boutique hotel, featuring only six rooms, in the rural canton of Thurgau yet close to the city of Saint Gallen. The property – a Relais & Château house too – has been meticulously renovated complete with the construction of a modern monolith. Onsite there is a one Michelin starred restaurant with an outdoor area with stunning views of lake and farm land. And the hosts (including all staff) are among the most amiable I have ever encountered! As there are no other amenities, it is rather something for a short stay (one or two nights). And for details, refer to my post.

In case you are interested about more details to our luxury Ascona trip combined with two stops on the way, come back later. There will be comprehensive reviews about The Chedi (my report) in Andermatt, the Castello del Sole (my post) in Ascona and the Mammertsberg (my stay) in Freidorf/Lake Constance in the time to come.

Date of stay: July 2021

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Lucerne is one of Switzerland’s most popular destinations for package travelers, especially from the U.S. and Asia. While it is normally not the place where to spend a night as a Swiss living in the Swiss Mittelland, this is different in these Corona times. With restaurants closed outside of hotels (not the case anymore), it was a preferred spot for a staycation. With lots of luxury and four-star hotels at hand, you are spoilt for choice. I always wanted to try out the Montana Art Deco Hotel, a premium property on a hill with beautiful views of city, lake and mountains in Lucerne. Therefore, my husband and did not hesitate long when we came upon a special offer that included eat, drink and sleep.

Before coming to the hotel, a few remarks about the city of Lucerne.

About Lucerne

This city does not need a big introduction as many people know about its position as a tourist hotspot. Since the start of tourism in Switzerland, this gateway to the country’s core has been popular. And this not without reason. It sits on Lake Lucerne, one of the most beautiful ones in Switzerland. Further, the city enjoys a magnificent mountain panorama.

And there is quite a selection of mid-high mountains nearby worth a visit (Rigi, Pilatus and Stanserhorn). Last but not least, Lucerne is a beautiful city with lots of sights.

In this context, think of the Chapel Bridge, the oldest covered wooden bridge in Europe,

or the Museggmauer, medieval fortifications.

Other attractions include the Lion Monument, a rock relief,

or the innovative Culture and Convention Center (KKL), an architectural highlight by Jean Nouvel.

In case you also want to get a feel of an (upscale) residential area outside the city limits, why not hop on a bus and head to nearby Meggen. Get off at the Chapel (Kapelle) station and walk back to central Lucerne (1 1/2 h), almost always with fabulous views of Lake Lucerne.

Make a stop at the splendid Meggenhorn Castle to make a stroll in its gorgeous gardens.

After this digression about things to do in Lucerne, now to Hotel Montana. And what it has to offer for travelers looking for staying and dining in style.

Staying at Montana Art Deco Hotel Lucerne, a premium hotel

As mentioned, my husband and I were looking for a staycation in need for a break from the “Corona predicament”. And we were on a last minute mission, for an upcoming national holiday. While there had been no vacancies for our desired date the last time we checked at the Montana Art Deco Hotel Lucerne, we were lucky enough to find a free room just a few days before departure. And of course there was not much choice in terms of room categories. There were only two double rooms available, but at least with lake view!

Here is what you can expect when staying at this hotel.

Location/History

As mentioned, it is set a bit above the city of Lucerne, in a preferred location with great views of the surroundings. The vista includes not only the city,

lake and mountains,

but you can also locate sights just as the Chapel Bridge or the Culture and Convention Center (KKL).

Despite its hill location, it is centrally situated. And you do not have to climb up to reach it. Because there is a hotel owned funicular railway just by the Casino/Palace Hotel

at the lakeside promenade! It is the shortest in the world and brings you to the hotel lobby within one minute.

As to Hotel Montana’s history, it opened in 1910. It was built as a palace hotel in the Art Deco style. Through the years, a number of renovations took place. All were aimed to maintain the character of the house yet targeted at an updated Art Deco style. As to the most recent overhauls, in 2018, the last rooms were equipped with air-conditioning. A year before, the new Penthouse Floor opened. Here, the rooms offer five-star service coming with that little extra. In 2015, a new addition was a bar in the form of beach club.

As to the management, the longtime director, Fritz Erni (1996 – 2020) helped the Montana to achieve. He was full of ideas of which many were successful. The accommodation has been named best four-star city hotel several times (by Sonntagszeitung hotel rating, last time in 2021). The current director (as from 2020) is Miriam Boeger, who also can look back on a longer career in this house.

Facilities

On site you find 61 rooms. While on the lower floors there are the “regular” rooms, on the two upper floors there is – as mentioned – a penthouse tract with five-star standard. You can choose here amongst 19 room of different categories. All the rooms come with more space and amenities (for instance partly with private whirlpool on the balcony).

As my husband and I had booked on short notice, we did not have a selection. There were “only” two double rooms with lake view

available. Room of this category differ in size (19 – 32 sqm) and layout. And they have either a shower or a tub. Ours was adequately sized. The bathroom featured a shower and one sink only with not much storage space around it.

It was okay for a one-night stay. For a longer one, I would have preferred more room. The decor was tasteful with parquet floor, warm colors and geometric patterns.

As to other facilities, there are the main restaurant Scala (see below), the Beach Club (roof top bar), the Louis Bar (with live music)

and the Kitchen Club. At the latter, you can have an aperitif and snacks or a complete dinner at a high table amidst the kitchen (26 seats). You can also book it for private occasions as from 12 persons.

To complete the offer, you can use the mentioned funicular railway to get to Lucerne’ s lakeside promenade and vice versa.

After these details to staying at the Montana, now to the dinner experience at Restaurant Scala.

Gourmet dining at Restaurant Scala at Montana Art Deco Hotel Lucerne

Dining facilities/Package/Cuisine

Restaurant Scala, where they also serve breakfast, has an indoor and outdoor area. The latter has been transformed into some sort of living room that is suitable for whatever the weather (from spring to fall).

Our table was in the latter area. When we dined here, it rained. But that was no problem at all. We felt well at ease here. And I am sure the views of the surrounding are formidable, with good weather. As mentioned, this was unfortunately not the case on our evening.

We had booked the so-called “Delight Package with Wine & Dine”. This included a room of your choice – in our case a Double Room Lake View – , a 5-course Scala menu with wine pairing, breakfast with a glass of champagne and a goody. This cost us (on a national holiday) 844 SFR/US$, what I found good value for the price.

At Restaurant Scala, a refined cuisine from the south is on offer, influenced by Swiss, Italian, French and Greek culinary traditions. Johan Breedijk, a Dutchman, has been in charge here since 2007. And he has a handle on it. Everything we got was of good quality, well prepared, and the service was paced exactly right. The cuisine is awarded 15 points by Gault Millau, and I find this well deserved. And come hungry if you opt for the menu because the servings are quite big.

Montana 5-course spring menu & wine pairing

We started with tuna accompanied by a wasabi panna cotta, avocado cream and mango-chili chutney, a promising beginning!

Next was a bear’s garlic risotto paired with an eggplant-burrata wrap and white tomato foam. It was carefully done and tasty.

The same is true for the main course, a Black Angus beef fillet with herb crust and thyme jus complete with a sweet potato cream puff and spring vegetables.

Before it was time for dessert, we received an assortment of cheese, coming from Switzerland and Italy.

And a chocolate cake in unison with rhubarb and strawberry sour cream ice cream put the sweet end to this delicious meal.

The amiable staff served us a glass of wine to every course. Each of those were ideal pairings, we liked what we got.

Overall

Lucerne is one of Switzerland’s most popular tourist spots, and therefore there is a great selection of fine luxury and premium hotels. If you look for a four-star house here in the country’s core, one of the best is Montana Art Deco Hotel. It is located a bit above town yet still centrally located and with beautiful views of city, lake and mountains. The hotels has also something for gourmets, Restaurant Scala awarded 15 Gault Millau points. And if you want to combine eat, drink and sleep, go for the Delight Package. This is what my husband and I had done on our (Corona) staycation.

Date of stay: May 2021

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Together with friends, my husband and I had chosen Restaurants Sens for a celebration. Here, at the premium Hotel Vitznauerhof on Lake Lucerne, one of Switzerland’s most ingenious chef is at work. It is about Jeroen Achtien who had been making waves with its unusual approach on Switzerland’s culinary scene since his start here three years ago. And his effort even resulted in a Michelin 2-star award! We had already known Jeroen Achtien’s exciting cuisine from an earlier dinner on the occasion of a party. After that we were keen on trying it “in normal operations”.

Before coming to our dinner experience, first a look at the hotel and its amenities.

Staying in style at Hotel Vitznauerhof

Location/History

The beautiful historic Hotel Vitznauerhof is directly located on Lake Lucerne in Vitznau, a village in Switzerland’s core.

And it features the longest sunset on this lake!

You can reach it from the the city of Lucerne in about half an hour by shuttle boat and by foot. In my opinion, it is not only the most favorably situated premium hotel in the area but also the one with the most idyllic location! Hotel Vitznauerhof is amid a lovely park and next to the Vitznau-Rigi Kulm cogwheel railway that brings you to the famous Mount Rigi.

The hotel, built in the Art Nouveau style, was opened in 1901. It looks back on an eventful history with many ups and downs. In its early times, it had many famous guests, too. Hermann Hesse, Richard Strauss or Paul Klee stayed here. In recent years, there were quite many management changes. In 2005, a flood destroyed the building and the park. And this was after an extensive renovation that had taken place in 1997!

Since summer 2018, the Vitznauerhof is under the new management of the young host Raphael Herzog. At the same time, the Dutchman Jeroen Achtien, another youngster, started as new chef at Restaurant Sens. And this was the beginning of a new era bringing not only consistency but seemingly also quite some success.

Ambiance

Hotel Vitznauerhof used to be a five-star hotel. This changed in 2015 when the former hosts changed it in a four-star superior one. Notwithstanding that, the house also caters for a demanding clientele, however the ambiance here is rather relaxed.

Rooms/Pricing

The 53 rooms are not super-luxurious yet also suitable for discerning guests. In any case, I would opt for a Premium Double Room with Lake View. These rooms all have either a terrace, loggia or small balcony with view of lake and mountains. And they are only slightly more expensive than the regular double rooms with the same view, which do not have this amenity. Although they are not spacious (19-26 sqm), they are thoughtfully designed to give you maximum comfort for the size. If you want to have more space, opt for one of the suites. And note that there is no air-condition in the rooms. In summertime, it might become a bit warm at certain times.

On our first stay in October 2020, my husband and I had a corner room, which was quite large with a sizable bathroom.

The only disadvantage was that it featured only a small balcony with a side view of the lake. When we were here in April 2021, we had a smaller room with a not very large bathroom – however the shower was spacious.

The biggest asset of the room was the dreamlike terrace with great views of the beautiful surroundings.

As to the room rates, you get here good value for money. The Premium Double Room with Lake View is available from 319 SFR/US$. On our last stay, we went for a staying and dining package. Precisely, we booked the Sens Experience which cost us 1,112 SFR/US$. The offer included the room and breakfast plus a six-course menu with wine pairing. Also part of the package were a glass of champagne, water, coffee and a Sens give-away.

Restaurants

UPDATE: new restaurant concept as from September 2023 (chef Jeroen Achtien leaves end of August 2023)

Onsite you find quite a selection of culinary spots. The signature restaurant here is the Michelin 2-star Restaurant Sens, where I have already dined twice. More information on that follows below.

Furthermore, there is the Restaurant Inspiration where they serve the breakfast, too.

Here you find contemporary dishes, often with a healthy touch. When the weather allows it, you can have your meal also at the Panorama Terrace.

And there is a new addition for the summer season, Yaku by Canessa. This is some sort of pop-up spot at Restaurant Sens. The young female chef, Claudia Canessa, is a native Peruvian. She works at the premises of Restaurant Sens when chef Jeroen Achtien has his days off. In the winter season, she usually is in St Moritz at the Kulm Hotel (14 points Gault Millau). There she does her inventive crossover creations at the Sunny Bar. Think of typical Peruvian dishes such as ceviche but also such ones with a Japanese twist. Indeed a place where I would like to dine in the months to come!

And in case you want to have a drink, there is a bar, too, located adjoining to the lobby.

Other amenities

At Hotel Vitznauerhof you find a private beach,

and there is also jetty, in case you arrive by private boat. In terms of water sports, you can rent the equipment for stand-up paddling. The same is true for the hotel motorboat.

As to wellness, there are a Finnish sauna, a steam bath and a footbath. A fitness room and an outdoor jacuzzi with lake view

are at your disposal, too. Spa treatments and spa shopping are also an option here.

Dining in style at Restaurant Sens at Hotel Vitznauerhof

Location

The fine dining restaurant Sens is in the former boat house, a bit away from the main building. From the hotel you walk through the park along the lake, cross a small bridge and there you are. Either you go straight inside or you have a look around first. There is the Sens Garden

or the outdoor area by the lake. Go around the building to find the outdoor restaurant, a lounge and a small platform on the lake, which is all really nice!

And if the weather cooperates, you can enjoy the most formidable sunsets from here!

The interiors are lovely, too. The view of Lake Lucerne and the Alps is breathtaking!

The space is small, about 20 to 25 seats with a disused fireplace, which the chef uses for fermentation. There is a half-open kitchen, i.e. a window to the kitchen. If you have your table by this window, you may stand up every now and then and take a look at the happenings in there. But do not worry if you have a seat elsewhere because the chef and his team do not hide in the kitchen. Quite the opposite, they leave it rather often to get in touch with their guests.

About chef Jeroen Achtien, Michelin 2-star chef

The chef is young (33 years old) and adventurous! To my knowledge, there is no other restaurant of this class in Switzerland where you can experience a comparable spectacle! The chef ferments and dehydrates like crazy. And he has a knack for combining ingredients you would never think that they fit – but they do. And he does all this not for the effect only but, first and foremost, to make the composition perfect.

Furthermore, he likes to interact with his clientele. He and his team member leave the kitchen frequently to prepare dishes tableside or to give them the finish onsite.

Before coming to Vitznau three years ago, he had been the right hand of the 3-star Michelin chef Jonnie Boer at Restaurant De Librije in Zwolle, The Netherlands, and this for eight long years! After less than a year here in Switzerland, he already got his first Michelin star. Two years later (February 2021), he even was awarded the second one! And he holds 17 point Gault Millau. When leaving the Netherlands, he also brought along parts of his team. So, you encounter here quite a lot of Dutch people at this Michelin 2-star dining-spot at Vitznauerhof.

What can you expect at Restaurant Sens?/Pricing

As mentioned, chef Jeroen Achtien is part of a generation of enterprising chefs intent on pushing the soul of traditional haute cuisine. And this to its most sophisticated and refined expression. He is a technical wizard, who packs a real punch both in taste and creativity. The young chef weaves some pretty special magic but without sacrificing flavor. In short, it is not your usual fine dining experience but a rather unconventional affair – in any case, worthwhile to do for every open-minded fine dining lover!

The atmosphere in here is – as at the rest of the hotel – laid-back and unpretentious. It is casual fine dining here with bare tables. Staff is young, uncomplicated and energetic. Allow at least three hours for your dinner. But I can assure you that time flies in this restaurant!

As you would expect, there is no fixed menu or an a la carte menu. Instead you can decide on the number of courses. You can choose either five (180 SFR/US$), six (210 SFR/US$) or seven courses (230 SFR/US$). That is of course no bargain meal yet prices are competitive compared to other restaurants of the same class.

And now to what we got on our second visit at Restaurant Sens at Hotel Vitznauerhof.

6-course tasting menu (210 SFR/US$) & wine pairing (115 SFR/US$)

Before the dinner started, each of us had to make a choice of three ingredients out of several ones. The server let us know that they would make part of a surprise course to follow. Suspense was built!

Snacks came one after the other, in quick succession without much time for me to think about them. First was a Caesar salad, which was prepared table side with a sauce of your choice, greens and pickled tomatoes. Egg yolk, smoked & dried, was grated over it.

Next was a broccoli cone and an eatable charcoal along with a lime dip.

A fluffy sandwich with fermented beetroot ketchup followed together with a kimchi taco with grated dried octopus.

And then the bread arrived accompanied by a fantastic brown butter (beurre noisette). I had to restrain myself not to eat too much of it!

The first starter was a triangle on the plate. It consisted of flamed char, white asparagus – tips and sauce – as well as leeks. The whole was topped with char caviar.

The meal was continued with an unusual but tasty combination: duck liver, not fattened and in powder form, smoked eel, oyster and jalapeño. It was a play of tastes, textures and flavors. And to my astonishment, it was a fit!

We proceeded with my favorite course of the evening, dry-aged zander with a creamy miso sauce paired with cauliflower, bacon and fermented grapes. And this came with a glass of fabulous sake. What a delight!

A palate cleanser was next, carrot ice cream in unison with passionfruit and basil, which was refreshing indeed.

The main course featured wagyu beef from Lucerne. First was a tatar on potatoes with Royal Belgian Caviar. Another part of the aged cow was roasted pink and yet another one was braised. The latter was cheek served in ail-mushroom bouillon, which gave the whole an unami kick.

In terms of wine to this course, we got two of them, both Pinot Noirs from Buendner Herrschaft, one red, the other sparkling. Such a duo was a first to me – and you know what, it was a match!

The cheese course was extraordinary, vacherin mont d’or from cheese maker Rolf Beeler merged with green asparagus, morels and chicken skin. And the porto we had with it made the composition complete!

Jeroen Achtien and his team did not disappoint in the dessert department either. Pineapple was paired with goat cheese, chocolate from chocolatier Felchlin and coffee. And the whole came in form of snacks and the actual dessert plate.

And we were stunned with the liquid pairing, rum with pineapple.

Finally, it was time for the surprise course – you remember, we had to choose three ingredients for it at the beginning. A cart was rolled to our table where we saw ice cream on sticks, black and white chocolate sauce as well as containers with unknown content.

As ingredients I had chosen spruce, hazelnut and kafir lime. The patissier recommended to pair those with white chocolate and off it went – with the help of nitrogen. The result was a deliciously flavored ice cream. What a treat to end a culinary fireworks for all senses!

Moreover, we also got a Sens giveaway, pickled onions and chocolates.

On balance, it was one hell of a multi-sensory experience! It was so much fun and excitement. Food wise, it was a big deal, we were blown away by the offered! When it came to the wine pairing, I found it great, too. However, we got three Pinot Noirs from the same region, that was a bit too much. But that was the only point that gave rise to criticism.

Overall

If you are a broad-minded fine food lover looking for a premium hotel with a wonderful location by the water and an easy-going ambiance, then Hotel Vitznauerhof on Lake Lucerne with Michelin 2-star Restaurant Sens is the perfect choice!

I have been here twice and was equally thrilled by the beautiful historic hotel – which is above all reasonably priced – and the exiting cuisine by Jeroen Achtien – which is pricey yet worth the cost.

Last date of stay: April 2021

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As a matter of fact, Lausanne on Lake Geneva was not on the list when my husband and I were preparing our trip through our home country’s western area (see my summary post).  Not that it would not be a great location for leisure travel, but we had been to this city in Switzerland’s French-speaking part not long ago (see my posts about a great luxury hotel and a worthy vineyard walk in the region). Yet, we went back because of the Beau-Rivage Palace Lausanne, one of the top luxury hotels in Switzerland. And a place that had been on our bucket list for some time now.

Of course we have had high expectations when checking-in here. And imagine, they were even more than met! This hotel jewel exudes luxury and old world charm yet also moves with the times. And it offers a guest experience that is hard to beat!

Staying at this grand old dame, a top luxury hotel in Switzerland

Location/History/Renovation

The five-star superior Beau-Rivage Palace is within 4 hectares (10 acres) of gardens, just by the lake (separated by a road). It is a member of the The Leading Hotels of the World, amongst others. The original hotel building (on the right side, seen from the lake) was opened in 1861.

In 1908, it was joined by a second building (Palace).

This extension makes it quite an extraordinary mix of neoclassical (Beau-Rivage) and neo-Baroque. Some years ago, a 27 million SFR/US$ renovation was started to update the grand old dame, to ensure its position as Lausanne’s top luxury hotel. At the moment, the last rooms in the Beau-Rivage part – out of the 168 ones in total – are undergoing a renewal.

Facilities

The offer here is impressive: four restaurants plus two more in the adjacent sister hotels, a 1,500 sqm spa including two swimming pools,

splendid public areas and wonderfully redone guest rooms. On our recent stay, my husband and I dined at the signature restaurant and at the Japanese place (more to it further below). And we spent quite some time just walking around and admiring the utterly beautiful indoors, for instance La Rotonde that connects the two hotel wings

or the stairwell in the Palace part.

Superior Double Room with Lake & Alps View

And of course we also spent considerable time in our room, a dream in mint and mirrors.

We had chosen a Superior Double Room with Lake & Alps View

and found it formidable. It was spacious (35 sqm) with an oversized bathroom

and a balcony.

The mirrors illuminate the space and reflect light from Lake Geneva, a nice effect! And the design is tasteful and underlines the character of the house.

In the mornings, we savored excellent breakfasts, accompanied by a service quality that is hard to surpass. Short, we had a great time here and would return in a heart beat. Pricewise, we made use of a (belated) Easter rate (off season and mid-week). It was no wallet breaker at 540 SFR/US$ per day and room with breakfast. Be prepared to pay much more at other times!

If you want to dine at the Beau Rivage Palace’s gastronomic restaurant however, this is anything but a bargain! Find in the following a dining overview and more information on the dining-spots we went to.

Dining at Hotel Beau-Rivage Palace

On site you find following dining opportunities: Anne-Sophie Pic (Michelin two stars/18 points Gault Millau, creative cuisine) Cafe Beau-Rivage (14 points Gault Millau, international cuisine), Miyako (Michelin The Plate, 13 points Gault Millau, Japanese cuisine), Lobby Lounge (small bites, healthy choices). In the two adjoining sister hotels you find L’Accademia (Michelin The Plate, 14 points Gault Millau, Italian cuisine) and 57° (13 points Gault Millau, barbecue).

Restaurant Anne-Sophie Pic at Beau-Rivage Palace, 2 stars Michelin

As it was by husband’s birthday, we wanted to splurge. So we opted for the hotel’s signature restaurant, Anne-Sophie Pic at Beau-Rivage Palace. Actually, Anne-Sophie Pic cooks in Valence, she is the only female chef in France holding three Michelin stars! In Lausanne, she installed a “trustee”, Kevin Vaubourg, the former second. He took over from his former boss, Paolo Boscaro, who left a short time ago.

What can you expect when dining here?

To the experience here, what shall I say? It was one hell of an evening! But it had to be, at these prices. On offer here is a creative cuisine, grounded in traditional French tradition but inspired by modern flavors.

There is a tasting menu only, either the whole she-bang, eight courses, or the stripped down version with two courses less. This cost you 360 resp. 270 SFR/US$! It was easily the most expensive meal we ever had – but also one of the best! At least I can assure you that you get value for it. And they were not stingy when it came to the produce offered (only the best) and this in sufficient quantity!

And the dining venue is a beauty of a space

plus the service is impeccable. Now to what we got.

8-course tasting menu (360 SFR/US$)

Snacks and an amuse bouche paved the way to a memorable meal,

followed by freshly caught fish from Lake Geneva. It lied on a bed of beetroot tartare and was accompanied by a milky vinaigrette with mint oil.

Next was a single white local asparagus, aromatized with curry, orange blossom and citron.

Then it was the turn of the berlingots, a signature Anne-Sophie Pic pasta dish. Ravioli, in the form of the typical French candy in a pyramidal form, were filled with cheese fondue, scented with Nikka whisky. Ground ivy, watercress and nasturtium jus completed the picture.

The dinner proceeded with blue lobster – in good quantity – in unison with a lobster head consommé, infused with camomile, and root vegetable.

The fish course consisted of line caught turbot with a jus out of saffron, lovage and marigold and paired with rhubarb variations.

Swiss Black Angus Veal – aged for 30 days – was the main player for the meat dish. It was marinated with sake and came in a combination with morels and green peas as well as a wild garlic and ginger leaf jus.

Then it was time for an extraordinary cheese course, on the one hand Tomme as original, on the other hand processed in ice cream together with spicy caramel and dried fruits.

For dessert we had a choice out of three options, my husband went for the white millefeuille combined with Tahitian vanilla cream, jasmine jelly and Voatsiperifery pepper foam. I had the citrus tart, a light cream made of fir bud, yuzu and buddha hand citrus accompanied by Green Chartreuse (naturally green liqueur) confit.

And the fabulous dinner came to an end with a birthday cake (cheese cake) and an after dessert plus snacks.

The cake was a complete surprise to us as we had not informed the restaurant about the celebration (we only told the reservations desk, where we ordered a Paris Brest cake for the occasion to our room amounting to 36 SFR/US$, which was heavenly by the way).

Restaurant Miyako, 13 points Gault Millau

The next day, at my husband’s actual birthday, we had made a reservation at the Japanese place. Here they serve Japanese food, from sushi (made in an open cuisine in a glass cubicle) to other specialities (yakitori, shabu-shabu and tempura) and teppanyaki (behind a counter with seats).

My husband opted for the Detox Menu (85 SFR/US$), tuna tartare with mango and avocado, black cod with yuzu and ginger, miso soup as well as mango and pineapple salad with green tea ice cream.

I had the sushi menu (68 SFR/US$), crab and avocado salad, sushi assortment, miso soup and green tea ice cream.

It is an unpretentious spot with a laid-back atmosphere, amiable service and reasonable prices. Everything we had was of good quality and nicely done. For me it was an upscale Japanese eatery “European style”, not as authentic as you get it in Japan. But you rarely encounter those in our latitudes anyway.

Overall

There are maybe a dozen truly top luxury hotels in Switzerland, and the Beau-Rivage Palace in Lausanne is certainly part of this list! Not only are the hotel buildings of a timeless beauty – and masterfully updated – , but “all of that around” is just perfect. That said, my husband and I had not the chance to try out the all spa facilities as parts of it were still under renovation. And the prices for staying here at certain times and the use of some services (for instance dining at the Anne-Sophie Pic Restaurant) are on the high side for sure!

Date of stay: April 2021

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