(Michelin) fine dining scene on the flower island in the Atlantic Ocean off the African coast:

Madeira’s offer of high-quality dining spots has developed since my first stay on this Portuguese Island more than ten years ago. At the time, I considered the fine dining scene in Madeira as somewhat limited, with quite a number of tourist traps. This has changed in the meantime. And even the prestigious Michelin guide has awarded three stars since the last decade or so. In addition, the island also saw the appearance of contemporary dining outlets. There are still lots of traditional restaurants, which is a good thing as long as they serve seriously good food. In any case, you will make finds when looking for places to dine in style in Madeira!

While I do not claim to give a full overview of each and every gourmet spot in Madeira, I think that I can give some advice to foodies into (Michelin) fine dining who also have a liking for modern restaurants. To make it easier to find the right restaurants, I divided them in categories. I will start with the top tier places, then continue with modern ones before coming to more traditional dining outlets with a twist.

1. Top tier fine dining in Madeira

If you are on the lookout for the best of the best, the list of fine dining in Madeira is short. It contains only two names. Both of them are at luxury hotels, and this at two neighboring ones.

1.1. Restaurant Il Gallo d’Oro at The Cliff Bay (2-star Michelin)

This is the first restaurant that received a Michelin star in Madeira. That was back in 2009. The second followed in 2017. And it also figures on the list “50 Best Discovery” of the The World’s 50 Best Restaurants. It is located within the five-star The Cliff Bay

and has been run by French chef Benoît Sinthon since 2004.

Il Gallo d’Oro initially used to be an Italian restaurant. When Benoît Sinthon took over, this changed. Thenceforth, a Mediterranean and Iberian inspired cuisine has been on offer using finest local as well as Portuguese and Spanish produce. Before, the chef had gained experience at a number of Michelin starred establishments, especially in France.

When staying at Les Suites at The Cliff Bay, I enjoyed a fabulous dinner at Il Gallo d’Oro. Already the setting is very nice. You pass the wine cellar before coming to the dining-room, which has been recently updated in an elegant style with modern touches. It further impresses with large windows and high ceilings.

In terms of food, there are two menus to choose from, either the Terroir Experience (7 courses 175 €, 10 courses 225 €) or the Top Experience (6 courses 165 €, 7 courses 185 €, 9 courses 215 €, 11 courses 275 €). While the cuisine here truly stands out as delicious and inventive, I found it price wise a bit over the top, in particular for Madeiran standards.

The level of service at Il Gallo d’Oro was generally good. I was warmly welcomed by the maître d’ and was well looked after during the first two thirds of the evening. Towards the end of the meal, the staff’s performance tapered off. The servers became increasingly inattentive. And when I left, there was nobody to say good-bye to me!

Highlights of the Top Experience Menu

Out of the six courses I had, which were all excellent, I have picked three of them.

I start with the third course, Halloween memories. It was a fantastic pumpkin risotto topped with truffles.

Then I would like to showcase the main course, a fruity pigeon creation.

And I have to admit that I have never eaten a better version of this game dish!

Finally the dessert, it was a deconstructed interpretation of a typical sweet treat from Madeira. It consisted of passionfruit, cookie and coffee, and again, it was heavenly!

1.2. Restaurant William at the Reid’s Palace (1-star Michelin)

Here Louis Pestana is at work, a Madeiran-born chef. He has spent his entire career at the Reid’s Palace

– 31 years – , only interrupted by short stays abroad. After getting his own restaurant William in 2015, named after the Reid’s founder, he gained a Michelin star two years later.

At the William, you get modern European cuisine, made with local produce whenever possible. The restaurant’s interiors have a contemporary feel, in sharp contrast to the (traditional) rest of the hotel. It is a spacious room on two levels, with a huge window front.

On my stay – where it was only open on Wednesday – , a five-course menu was on offer (120 €). It included either a fish or meat course as main as well as coffee and petit fours to end the meal. While everything was of great quality, carefully prepared and refined enough, I missed a certain wow factor. Nevertheless, it was a fine meal in a nice ambiance and served by a pleasant staff. And Restaurant William is certainly a gain for fine dining in Madeira.

Highlights of the tasting menu

I liked the tomato and plum gazpacho with smoked eel. Whereas it was not a particularly imaginative dish, it was full of taste and provided a nice textural contrast.

The main course was seared tuna with a red pepper sauce, a traditional molho vilão. It was immaculately done yet not really surprising flavor wise.

What I liked most, was the sweet dish, a lemon verbena creme brûlée. While it was a dessert classic, the add-ons as loquat jam, white chocolate mousse and lime crumble made it an amazing taste combination.

2. Modern fine dining in Madeira

The offer of restaurants serving good food in a contemporary setting is still scarce. Precisely, I can think of three places that fit this description. First, a restaurant at a luxury hotel, second, two sister dining spots in Funchal’s center.

2.1. Avista Restaurant & Lounge (Bib Gourmand Michelin)

This hip dining outlet is located at Les Suites at The Cliff Bay.

On my nine-day stay at the hotel, I had dinner or lunch at this Michelin listed restaurant on seven occasions. So I ate my way through the entire menu! And I liked what I got.

Benoît Sinthon, two-star Michelin chef from Il Gallo d’Oro, oversees the kitchen. Here João Luz is in charge. The Avista is divided in two parts. On the first floor, there is the Mediterranean concept.

Here they serve uncomplicated starter dishes to share

before it is time for meat or fish from the Josper grill.

To end the feast, sample from their excellent ice-cream

or go for their dessert of the day.

On Saturdays and Sundays, you have an additional choice. Then Asian cuisine is available on the restaurant’s second floor.

The range here goes from ceviche to poke, tempura and sushi or sashimi.

I liked Avista’s vibrant ambiance and its seaside location, where you either dine inside a stylish glass cube or on the beautiful terrace. Staff is relaxed yet hospitable. And dining here will not break the bank. If you are a hotel guest, you can book an enhancement for 42 € that allows you to have three courses here.

2.2. Akua and Kampo, two restaurants by Júlio Pereira

These are two vibrant places with a relaxed feel in Funchal’s core where you get modern, well-made dishes. Both are similar in appearance, with a minimalist decor, a counter with a few seats, an open kitchen and products showcased on your way in. Staff is laid-back yet amiable and more than ready to help you with making your choice.

Spanish-born chef Júlio Pereira Kampo came to Madeira after having worked at restaurants in Italy, Spain and Brazil. His wife is Madeiran and he had been looking for a better quality of life once having a family. He started with Kampo, which focuses on meat, end of 2018.

This was followed by Akua, half a year later, which specializes in fish.

My husband and I opted for Akua, the seafood restaurant, and were not disappointed with our experience here.

We began with sourdough bread

and continued with ceviche and cured scabbard fish.

For main, we had creamy carabinieri and seafood rice.

And we ended with a creation made of white chocolate, black olive and passion fruit and coconut “quindim”, a Brasilian coconut pudding.

Everything we had at Akua was great and reasonably priced. And I presume that this is not any different at Kampo, the “meat place”. After all, the chef learned at his father’s butcher’s shop, when he still was a kid!

3. Traditional fine dining in Madeira – with a twist

There is no shortage of traditional dining spots in Madeira. While most of them are more on the rustic side, fewer are in a classical style. I limit myself on the latter as dining in style on this island can only be expected here. On my recent stay, I had dinner at three of them.

3.1. Villa Cipriani (Michelin Plate)

This restaurant belongs to the Reid’s Palace, it is located in a neighboring manor house.

You have here superb views not only of the Atlantic Ocean but also of the hotel’s main building and of Funchal, especially from the terrace.

And you can expect fine dining in Madeira at its best at Villa Cipriani!

I have eaten here twice, on my recent stay and the other time 14 years ago. And both time, I enjoyed an excellent meal. Not without reason, this dining venue is listed in the Michelin guide. The fare here is upscale Italian. It is not a simple trattoria as you might guess from the red–and–white checkered tablecloths. The level of service is high and prices at Villa Cipriani are adequate, although not inexpensive. Hey, but it is the Reid’s!

From the extensive menu, I went for seafood and fish. First I had the crab venetian style,

followed by sea bass risotto,

which were both good choices. The same can be said for the tiramisu.

They know here how to prepare Italian classics with a contemporary twist! And the atmosphere on the lively terrace was pleasant, too.

3.2. Restaurant Armazém do Sal (Michelin Plate)

Armazém do Sal is set in Funchal’s core at a 200-year-old building that once served as a salt warehouse.

The dining room features a stone wall and wooden beam ceilings. This together with the tables draped with white floor–length tablecloths and comfortable chairs makes it an elegant setting.

Traditional food with modern accents is served here, by accommodative and informative staff. And it is the only restaurant in downtown Funchal that is listed in the Michelin guide.

The restaurant caters for foreigners and locals likewise. While the former have their meal in the chic dining room, the latter do so in the vestibule or in the outdoor area. The menu is cleverly structured, neither too large nor too small, with lots of appealing dishes. I started with snapper ceviche, made with tiger’s milk and paired with avocado and fried banana.

For main, I decided for black scabbard fish in combination with lime risotto, banana chutney and vegetables.

And I was delighted with my choices, which were of high quality, perfectly prepared and nicely arranged. And all this came moderately priced, a real find if you look for fine dining in Madeira!

3.3. Franco’s Corner

And to end this blogpost about where to dine in style in Madeira’s capital of Funchal, here a restaurant where you get rather simple yet well-made food in a nice ambiance. And this is about Franco’s Corner. On offer here is a mix of international classics and regional food.

The restaurant is located in a not so frequented area of Funchal’s hotel zone. When you are approaching, you might guess that it is some sort of neighborhood dining venue. But a close look at Franco’s Corner shows that it is a place with a rustic-chic decor

where a very present maître d’ – I assume Franco – takes care of the guests. And he does this in an amiable and hospitable way.

As to food offerings, there is quite a selection of cold starters, soups, fish, meat, vegetarian dishes and desserts at your disposal. Some are more international staples, others are Portuguese specialties. I chose the soup of the day as a starter.

Then I had black scabbard fish breaded with corn bread and almonds, accompanied by vegetables.

While everything was correctly done and good in taste, I found it a bit on the staid side.

Looking back to my other Madeira posts

A travel info post made the start of my mini series about this destination.

This was followed by an overview where to go in Madeira for staying in style, i.e. luxury hotels worth the name. As a next step, I looked into two of those, the Reid’s Palace and Les Suites at The Cliff Bay. And the present blogpost – as you know – was about recommended (Michelin) fine dining in Madeira.

Date of visit: November 2021

Pin it for later

The post Where to dine in style in Madeira’s capital Funchal, Portugal first appeared on Swiss Traveler