Top luxury hotels & (Michelin) dining in the near-Mediterranean Swiss south:

You find in Switzerland not only the Alps and the Mittelland but also an area with a Mediterranean vibe, the Ticino. This most southern part of Switzerland is a popular destination for Swiss people from the north because of its mild climate. Whereas I already reported in some detail about where to stay and dine in Ascona, a tourist hotspot on Lake Maggiore, I have not done so yet as for Lugano, Ticino’s largest town. After another stay here end of last year, I will catch up on this. In the following, I will let you know where to go for luxury hotels and (Michelin) dining in Lugano.

About Lugano

Lugano is probably the most known town in the Ticino. And here people speak Italian. After all, this part of Switzerland borders Italy. This town is one of the country’s largest financial centers. But also the trade and the tourism are important economic pillars.

When it comes to tourism, although it is crucial, it is less evident than in Locarno and Ascona, its inter-cantonal counterparts. While life goes there at a leisurely pace, Lugano is different. At first sight, it is a busy business and residential town. Car traffic here is – unfortunately – omnipresent. But the town has a quiet side too.

There is of course the idyllic lake, named after the town of Lugano, or the surrounding mountains that make splendid viewpoints.

When being in Lugano and looking towards the lake, Monte San Salvatore is on the right side, Monte Bré on the left one.

The traffic-free historic old town is a nice place to stroll. Do not miss the main square Piazza della Riforma, framed by pastel colored, neoclassical palazzi.

Or head to picturesque neighboring villages just as Gandria, a fishing village,

or Morcote, a Swiss Heritage Site.

Four luxury hotels with (Michelin) gourmet dining in Lugano

As my husband and I are frequent traveler to the near-Mediterranean Ticino, we had quite a number of hotel stays in Lugano, too. And this at three of four luxury hotels in town. In late fall, we lodged at the Hotel Splendide Royal. Earlier on, we had already stayed at the Hotel Villa Principe Leopoldo and several times at the Grand Hotel Villa Castagnola. So far we he have not been yet at the newest luxury hotel in town, at the Hotel The View.

While I can provide details of my recent visit to Hotel Splendide Royal,

this is not possible for the other ones. My stays at these hotels go back some time. However, when being in Lugano in November 2020, I had dinner not only at the Splendid Royale but at two of the others as well. Therefore, I am able to give you some information on the dining experience at those. In terms of other aspects, I will go into some facts and deliver a general opinion. But of course I cannot comment on how it feels as a hotel guest there right now.

1. Hotel Splendide Royal *****^S

Location

Until recently, my husband and I avoided staying here because of its location on the busy lake shore road. We thought that it would be too loud. This time, we decided to give it a try (also because of the good reviews). First, we booked a three-day stay that we later extended for two more days. As to the traffic, I have to say that it was no big issue. And this despite the facts that our room was on the second floor (lake facing) and I am usually sensitive to noise. However, if you value a quiet location, you might be better off with a room at the rear of the building (less expensive choice).

The Splendide is located close to the town center, near to the Monte San Salvatore mountain railway and the Paradiso neighborhood (7 minutes). You reach Via Nassa (historic old town) in about 10 minutes. However if you want to go to the Monte Bré mountain railway/Castagnola neighborhood, you need about 40 minutes. Having said that, it is a nice walk, always along the lake and passing the Ciani Park.

All times apply to being on foot. I would not opt for going by car as traffic is often heavy in Lugano’s town center.

Facilities

The Splendide Royal is a fine example of old world architecture. The grand hotel was built in 1887 in the Belle Epoque style and boasts a marble lobby and hallways complete with impressive frescoes and Murano chandeliers. Also the decor suits the 19th century look. If you have a closer look at the hotel’s facade you notice the name “Splendide” only. “Royal” was added to the name later on as a nod to the many royal guests lodging here.

The hotel is a member of the The Leading Hotels of the World and the Swiss Deluxe Hotels. Its facilities are immaculate, from the restaurants (see under “food”), the spa and the event venues. The latest addition is the Lifestyle Spa (2019). It is in a separate new building and features an indoor pool, a sun terrace, a fitness and treatment area, a sauna and a Turkish bath.

Rooms/Pricing

There are 93 rooms in total, and this both in the main building (Palace) and the (not so nice to look at) adjoining one (Executive). In both cases you have to choose between accommodations to the lake or the garden. The least expensive room is the Executive Superior to the garden with 30 sqm, the most expensive one (except the suites) is the Junior Suite to the lake with 55 sqm.

As to the pricing, it is difficult to determine the exact price ranges. Due to the based dynamic pricing model, rates vary immensely. I have seen the Executive Superior at 275 SFR/US$, but also at 419 SFR/US$. The same is true for the Junior Suite (from 660 to 885 SFR/US$). When my husband and I stayed at the Splendide Royal at the beginning of November 2020, we went for the Deluxe Palace Room in combination with a two day dine around offer. Luckily, we were upgraded to a Junior Suite.

For day three to five we paid 500 SFR/US$ (all rates per room and day with breakfast). I found that this was sound value for money.

Now to the Junior Suite we had. It was a corner room on the second floor (the first floor above the ground floor). Here you find those extraordinarily high ceiling rooms with period decor, which are great to reside in. As mentioned, they are really spacious (55 sqm) with a generous seating area, two windows, a small balcony and an oversized bathroom, divided into two rooms (one with two sinks, the other with a large bath tub, a small shower, and toilet/bidet).

Food

The mornings started well here with a served breakfast (in Corona times), which was much appreciated by us. And we had the chance to have it in different rooms. With fewer guests it was in the smaller anteroom,

with more of them in a bigger space in the newer part of the hotel.

As to dining opportunities, you have the choice between the Belle Epoque Bar, La Veranda Restaurant and the signature place, I Due Sud Restaurant. We had drinks at the bar several times, two dinners at La Veranda and one at I Due Sud. And we liked what we got. Here are some more details to the dining experiences.

I Due Sud Restaurant (one star Michelin, 16 points Gault Millau)

UPDATE: one-star Michelin chef Domenico Ruberto leaves end of 2023

If you are a gourmet, you absolutely have to dine here. Domenico Ruberto is one kind of an enterprising chef! The young chef, who originates from Calabria, makes the best out of two southern regions. The restaurant is the place where south Italy meets south Switzerland. And he does not know many limits by doing so. He was awarded one star Michelin in February 2021 and has had 16 points Gault Millau for two years now.

After becoming the “Gault Millau discovery of the year 2018 in the Ticino” he received his own little space (less than ten tables) at the Splendide to perform his magic.

You can choose here amongst four menus. Two of them have 7 courses (140 resp. 150 SFR/US$) that are also available in 4 courses (120 resp. 128 SFR/US$). The vegetarian menu costs 80 SFR/US$ (4 courses). And there is one called the chef’s choice (198 SFR/US$) that you can have in 7 courses too (150 SFR/US$).

And I have a tip for you if you book a room at the Splendide and have a dinner at the I Due Sud in mind at the same time. When doing your online reservation, you can add a 7-course dinner with wine pairing. And I noticed that the pricing for this add-on is very different, depending on day and season. Check it out if you are flexible in terms of time.

7-course menu “Crudo, Dolce o Salato?”

After taking a seat at the quite cramped space in the restaurant’s rear (the tables by the windows are the preferred ones), we opted for the “Crudo, Dolce o Salato?” menu. This means  “Raw, Sweet or Salty?” and raised a lot of hopes – and a lot of questions. And we were not disappointed!

After some snacks we got a memorable dish called “as it were a dessert”. And it looked like a dessert indeed, but it was a savory creation made of scampi, pumpkin and almond. What a delight – and original too!

I had been looking forward to the two pasta dishes, ravioli with quail and fettuccine with hare, and rightly so. Both belonged to the most memorable ones in this category that I have ever eaten.

The dessert was simply called “chestnut” but it was everything but simple! It was as much a treat for the eyes as the palate.

La Veranda Restaurant

UPDATE: chef Matteo Checola leaves together with his boss Domenico Ruberto end of 2023 – 14 Gault Millau points since fall 2021

Here chef Domenico Ruberto is also in charge for the menu. La Veranda has Mediterranean cuisine on offer. The food is more classic yet with one or the other sophisticated element. Both times we had a dish by the window, and it was worth it although it was already dark outside. There is no lack of space here, quite in contrast to the I Due Sud.

We had booked a dine around arrangement complete with wine at our first evening at the Splendide. And that was great, Champagne to start the feast plus four local wines. As to the food, we could choose four courses from the menu (with the exception of the two most expensive main courses). We feasted on goose liver, beetroot risotto,

wild turbot in octopus stew and a “Mont Blanc” dessert (chestnut tart).

It was fabulous, but four courses were definitely too much. Three of them are more than enough, also if you are a good eater!

Ambiance/Staff

The Splendide Royal is a grand hotel with a notable history. No concessions were made to decor and furnishings. Even the breakfast room in a newer part of the building is kept in the actual period style. Only the contemporary spa makes an exception. Yet it suits the character of the house. It is Lugano’s Belle Epoque old dame, however without the dust. The ambiance is pleasant, not exactly relaxed but not very formal either.

The same is true for the staff. It hits the perfect notes of attentiveness and friendliness with that small touch of formality that you expect from such a place. Whoever we met, everyone was kind and professional without being intrusive.

Now to another luxury hotel in Lugano where I have been to several times in the past, however not recently. Friends of mine stayed here some months ago, so I can provide some pictures and pieces of information. Yet I will limit myself to inform you about the basics to this hotel, Grand Hotel Villa Castagnola.

2. Grand Hotel Villa Castagnola *****^S

Location

The Villa Castagnola is set on the shores of Lake Lugano, just as the Splendide Royal. In contrast to the latter, it is set back from the road a bit. And this thanks to its beautiful subtropical park. Compared to the Splendide Royal, the Villa Castagnola is at the opposite side of town, in the Castagnola neighborhood and close to the Monte Bré mountain railway

Facilities/Rooms

The hotel used to be the home of a rich Russian family before it was transformed into a hotel in 1885. Reflecting the hotel’s upscale standard, the facilities are impressive. You find here an indoor pool, a tennis court, a wellness and fitness area and the best feature in my opinion, a private lido. It basically is just a terrace on the lake, but it is such a relaxing thing lying on the sun loungers and gazing at the lake. The Villa Castagnola is a member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World.

In terms of accommodation, you can choose among 72 rooms including 33 suites and junior suites. They are individually styled in a traditional, elegant design, sometimes with the one or other playful element. I think the Standard Junior Suite (45 sqm) is a good choice if you care for some space and good views.

Rates in relation to the Splendide Royal seem to be comparable, maybe a tad lower.

Restaurants (Arte: one star Michelin, 16 points Gault Millau/Relais: 14 points Gault Millau)

The selection of eating opportunities includes La Rucola (smart-casual, international cuisine), Le Relais (elegant, Mediterranean cuisine, 14 points Gault Millau) and the the signature restaurant, Galleria Arté al Lago (elegant, modern cuisine, Michelin one star, 16 points Gault Millau).

I have both dined at Le Relais and at the Galleria Arté al Lago in the past. While I have good memories of my dining experiences at this restaurants, none of them were extraordinary. Friends who have recently dined at The Arté found it okay although not outstanding.

And there is one more thing, check out the opening times of the latter. The Michelin place was closed quite a few times in the past when we wanted to book a table here.

There is one more luxury hotel in town where my husband and I have been to over the years, Villa Principe Leopoldo.

3. Hotel Villa Principe Leopoldo *****

Location

Villa Principe Leopoldo is located on Lugano’s hills, called Collina d’Oro (Golden Hill), with stunning views of lake and mountains.

It is set in a posh neighborhood, about half an hour by foot from the town center.

Facilities/Rooms

The hotel building is a true treasure, IMHO.

It is a former private home of Prince Friedrich Leopoldo and was built in a Belle Epoque style mixed with Renaissance and Art Deco elements in 1926. Facilities include two swimming pools, two tennis courts, a fitness room and a small spa. The Villa Principe Leopoldo is a member of Relais & Chateaux.

On site you find 37 junior suites and suites. They are all quite spacious and furnished in a elegant traditional style. And they seem to be – from what I understood – a bit dated. They are at the same time less expensive than the rooms at the Splendide Royal and the Villa Castagnola.

Restaurant (one star Michelin, 16 points Gault Millau)

UPDATE: Michelin Plate (instead of Michelin star) as from fall 2023

The Principe Leopoldo Restaurant is a safe bet in Lugano’s culinary scene although chef Dario Ranzo has left the premises after 30 years in charge of the kitchen. His sous-chef Cristian Moreschi took over in 2020 and already was awarded with one Michelin star in February 2021 (it also has 16 Gault Millau points).

My husband and I had dinner here on our stay a few years ago with the former chef, and especially remembered the heavenly risotto. And we took the chance to dine here as well when being in town a couple of months ago. And it was worth the revisit! The restaurant is very old school, be it from the appearance and considering the service approach. Also the food is more on the classic side.

Again we could not resist opting for the risotto, this time wie with blue cheese, spring onions and walnuts. And it was a revelation! It was served from a plate put on a heater, and we had two large servings – as an appetizer! Afterwards, I had veal fillet with artichokes and chanterelles. To end the meal, both my husband and I went for pistachio mousse with chocolate namelaka and raspberries. And both were just great!

Prices here are upscale, yet so is the food! Starters range from 28 to 45 SFR/US$, soups and pasta from 24 to 39 SFR/US$, fish and shell fish from 65 to 75 SFR/US$, meat from 58 to 66 SFR and desserts are priced 25 SFR/US$.

Yet another luxury hotel remains, the newest one in town, The View Lugano. I have not stayed here yet, but I had dinner here some months ago.

4. Hotel The View Lugano *****^S

Location

This is another luxury hotel towering high above the town of Lugano, and this in the Paradiso neighborhood (near the San Salvatore mountain railway). And of course you have splendid vistas of lake, town and mountains. A negative point is the hotel’s  location on the north slope of the hill with not much sun in some seasons. You reach the town center in about half an hour on foot.

Facilities/Rooms

Contrary to the other luxury hotels in town, The View Lugano is a new luxury hotel, opened in 2015. It is a modern place with a quite special design, resembling a giant yacht. And this theme runs throughout the hotel. A state-of-the-art spa with an indoor pool and a fitness center is on site.

The View Lugano is a boutique hotel with 18 suites only. The spacious accommodations are contemporarily styled featuring maritime elements. The Junior Suites measure 50 sqm and all have terraces with lake views. Rates here are high. The least expensive lodging opportunity, the Classic Junior Suite, is roughly twice as expensive as its counterpart at the before mentioned Hotel Villa Principe Leopoldo. While you cannot directly compare these two properties, the pricing at The View seems a bit steep.

In addition to the hotel, there is also The View Residence where you can rent vacation apartments. They are a bit less expensive but come with fewer services (apparently no daily cleaning).

Restaurant (Michelin The Plate, 15 points Gault Millau)