A family affair since 1908, this unpretentious luxury hotel with a soul:

Hotel Waldhaus in Sils Maria, in the beautiful Engadine in the Swiss Alps, is a truly unique place. There is no other property in Switzerland of this kind. It has been family owned since it was constructed 115 years ago. There is a spirit of continuity here that is second to none. The Waldhaus is not just another luxury hotel, but it has a soul of its own. It may be best described with a list of characteristics: it is unpretentious, understated, full of character, affine to culture, luxurious but not too much so, affordable, near to Saint Moritz yet so far away from it. There would be more, but I do not want to try your patience. I will do my best to bring Hotel Waldhaus closer to you in the next paragraphs.

I start with detailing my connection to this hotel and letting you know more about the family that stands behind it. If you should wonder about where I got all this data, they published a book on the occasion of the Waldhaus’ 111th birthday in 2019 (also available in English). After doing this, I will go into the hotel’s features.

My personal relation to Waldhaus Sils

While my husband and I always very much liked our stays at the Waldhaus Sils, we have not been here for 16 years! Our (too long) absence did not have anything to do with the hotel but it was due to other factors. Instead of going to the Upper Engadine, which we adore, we rather went to Davos, another resort town in the Swiss Alps. This because we had business friends who had bought a hotel and personal friends who had acquired a vacation apartment here. And both happened at about the same time. Yet, in the meantime the situation has changed somehow, and we are free again to go wherever we please!

And so we decided to return to Hotel Waldhaus Sils Maria to spend a few days for skiing and winter walking (my next post will describe two great winter walks). In the past, we had come here rather in summertime for walking/hiking.

Our first stay dates back to 2000. Afterwards, we returned six times more. And the last stay before our current one was in 2007. We always went as a family, with our son, when he was a child and a young teen. Our recent visit was actually the first where my husband and I went on our own. But we have already decided to come back with our son and his girlfriend when the occasion arises!

And how was our coming back? Walking through the Waldhaus’ entrance door was like we had never been away. But this does not mean that the time has stood still here. The hotel has moved on – there were some remodeling projects – yet without losing its original flair. In the meantime, a new generation – the fifth – has taken over yet the old one is still present. The same is true for quite a number of staff. Above all, that is about the Maître d’Hôtel (the restaurant manager), Walter Nana, who has been working here for 38 years! And we were warmly welcomed back!

Hotel Waldhaus Sils’ backstory

Generation I (about 1908 – 1918)

Waldhaus Sils was opened in 1908, and this after the relatively short construction time of two years. Josef Giger was the founder, who used to manage Hotel Hof Ragaz in Bad Ragaz in eastern Switzerland, and he managed it together with his wife Amalie (generation I). After long years in the upscale hospitality business, Josef Giger knew exactly what he wanted his hotel to be. It should be beautiful and grand yet at the same time “practical and solid”. What he did not have in mind, was some kind of palatial building.

The result is some kind of a fortress. While it majestically sits on a hill above the village of Sils Maria, surrounded by forest, it is no palace. However, it is far from being modest. It definitely wants to impress. From its style, you can best describe it as historicist. There is also no true front and back. As to the number of rooms, there are 140 of them today, about the same as in 1908.

Generation II (about 1918 – 1960)

After the death of Josef and Amalie Giger, one of her daughters, Helen, took over with her husband, Oskar Kienberger. Funnily enough, this is the son of one of Josef Giger’s peers – he used to manage Hotel Quellenhof in Bad Ragaz at the same time as he was in charge of the neighboring Hotel Hof Ragaz.

They went through no easy time, the global economic crisis hit the Waldhaus hard. And the second world war that followed was not any different. But shortly after the end of the war, there was more or less business as usual at the Waldhaus. As the zeitgeist demanded, all the hotel rooms became equipped with bathrooms. The rapid spread of the automobile made it also necessary to construct garage buildings.

Generation III (about 1960 – 1987)

Rolf, one of Helen and Oskar Kienberger’s sons, soon became the designated successor of the family business, and this together with his wife Rita. He was responsible for the reintroduction of the winter season at the Waldhaus. At the beginning, his father opposed – he had made some bad experiences in this respect – , but in the end this decision turned out to be the right one. The overnight stays increased significantly afterwards.

Under Rolf’s helm, an indoor swimming pool started its operation (1969/70). Also the dining-room was updated and enlarged (1978). Then the “Palais du Garage” was opened too (1982/83). It contained not only an underground car park but also tennis courts, indoor and outdoor. And the first kitchen renovation took place (1977).

Generation IV (about 1987 – 2010)

After the era Rolf Kienberger, a new name appeared, Felix Dietrich. Rolf was his godfather and soon discovered his suitability for a job in the hospitality field. And when this talented young man fell in love with Maria, one of Rolf and Rita’s daughters, all the better. After their wedding, they worked at the side of Rita and Rolf Kienberger until they took over completely in 1987. Two years afterwards, they were joined by Urs Kienberger, Maria’s brother, who had pursed a career as economist before.

And the success story of Waldhaus went on under the lead of this trio. They showed engagement in different areas. Among others, culture became more important (lectures, concerts, book presentations, excursions, theater performances). While pursuing such activities, the hotel directors always made sure that they complement the hotel’s everyday life. In no way, culture was meant to be in the foreground.

With the fourth generation on the helm, the kitchen was once again overhauled, along with some neighboring spaces (2008, costs of 10 million SFR/US$). This was also the point of time when a chef’s table was introduced. Furthermore, the hotel lounge was enlarged by 6 m (20 ft) into the forest (1991) and a second underground car park was built (1999).

Generation V (from 2010)

While Felix Dietrich stepped back in 2010 at the age of 60, Urs Kienberger had not been ready yet (two years younger). He wanted to stand by the next generation for some more time (2014). The new leading force as from 2010 consisted of Maria and Felix Dietrich’s two sons. Claudio (born 1977) is responsible for the operational and administrative management, Patrick (born 1980) for guest relations.

Under the lead of Urs Kienberger, the smokers were “relocated” from the bar into a newly constructed smoking room. This change made it necessary to move the à la carte restaurant Arvenstube towards east (2011/12, more than 2.5 million SFR/US$). The youngsters on their part tackled the major project of a spa, which was a heathen task. This because most of this new building is underneath the ground (2016/17, costs of a little less than 11 million SFR/US$).

Otherwise, Claudio and Patrick do their best to continue the work of their ancestors, and as my husband and I thought, very successfully. As to their appearance and personality, Claudio reminds us of his father. With regard to Patrick, he definitely has quite some genes from the Kienberger’s side.

Location of Hotel Waldhaus Sils Maria Engadine

I have already mentioned it, Hotel Waldhaus is located in Sils Maria. This is a small town on Lake Sils in the Upper Engadine, a marvel long high Alpine valley in eastern Switzerland. The accommodation towers high above Sils at the start of the Fex Valley, a beautiful side valley, which is a mostly car-free zone (if you like winter walking, one of the two walks in my next post heads here). The Waldhaus is amidst a larch forest, and you enjoy unobscured views of the surroundings from here.

The most desirable view is probably to the west towards Lake Sils and Maloja.

Yet also the one to the south (Fex Valley) is nice. I personally like to overlook Lake Silvaplana and Sils (east side).

The latter is also in the direction where Saint Moritz lies, from which you probably have already heard about. This glamorous resort town has the reputation of being one of those places (see my post) where the rich and famous like to reside. While it definitely is no beauty, you find here lots of renowned hotels – which I find overpriced in the winter season – , chic shops and restaurants. When staying at Hotel Waldhaus, you are close to Saint Moritz (about 10 km/6.2 mi away), yet this fashionable spot seems like a world apart from the tranquility in Sils.

Ambiance at Hotel Waldhaus Sils Maria Engadine

In case you are fond of hotels full of people who display their wealth and put on an ostentatious show of their possessions, then you are probably better off in one of the Saint Moritz properties. In contrast, if you are more into understated luxury, then you might be in the right place at the Waldhaus. It is not so that you find here not all the amenities of a five-star accommodation yet it is neither pompous nor glamorous.

Hotel Waldhaus was named “Historic Hotel of the Year” in 2005 by ICOMOS, the International Council on Monuments and Sites. And again in 2015, it got a special anniversary award “20 years of Historic Hotels of the Year”. And they know here how to preserve the old without being old-fashioned. Renewal projects are carried out when the time is ripe. Yet they are usually no fast starters. As a family business, it takes consideration to realize huge renovation plans.

I already let you know that culture is important at the Waldhaus. There are not only a number of activities in this respect – all with the intent of complementing the every day life at the hotel – , you find here also a quite a number of guests with an affinity for the fine arts. The hotel also seems to attract people that work in this scene. On our stays, we have encountered several “celebrities”. When visiting a short time ago, we happened to notice one of the most notable Swiss architects among the guests.

Staff at Hotel Waldhaus Sils Maria Engadine

Not only there are lots of returning guests at the Waldhaus (70% and more), also the staff shows great loyalty to this hotel. After 16 years of not being here, my husband and I still recognized some employees at the restaurant on our recent stay. This is true not only for Walter Nana, the restaurant manager, as mentioned above, but for others too. For example, Oscar Comalli, the sommelier, has been working here since 1992.

There is also longtime staff in the kitchen. The chef patissier, Renato Pellegrinelli, has been occupied at the Waldhaus for more than 30 years!

If you wonder about the number of employees, there are about 170 of them. They are responsible for about 240 guests at full occupancy. As to the staff’s attitude, all of them are hospitable and friendly. You get the feeling that their service mentality is genuine. Their friendliness does not come across as fake. And a personal touch is for sure at most times.

Rooms/Pricing

Earlier on, I already informed on the guest rooms’ views. From out of the 140 rooms, you can make your choice of a variety of categories. For the two of you – there is also a large selection for solo travelers – , you can decide on four options: 2a* Junior Suite, 2a Best, 2b Standard and 2c Small. In addition, there are three kind of suites available. In case you care for views towards south and west, there is an additional charge.

As to the seasons, you find here four different ones. PEAK is around Christmas and New Year as well as from about the second week of February through end of February. In the remaining winter times, you pay either the HIGH rates or minus 10% (shoulder season) or 20% (low season). In summer, there is no PEAK and only one HIGH season, and this from about the last week of July to mid-August. The rest is available with a discount of 10% or 20% as above.

The rates start at 485 SFR/US$ (two persons, 2c Small, minus 20% low season, 2022/2023). They include half board. In case you only want to have breakfast you pay 50 SFR/US$ less per person. And three styles of rooms are at your disposal: classic, modern and nostalgic. The latter rooms come with the original restored furnishings from 1908. I consider this pricing as reasonable, especially compared to the one in Saint Moritz, which is – I repeat myself – over the top, especially in wintertime.

2a* Junior-Suite: our choice of room at Hotel Waldhaus Sils Maria

As my husband and I prefer to have enough space, we went for the biggest double room, the 2a* Junior Suite. This category offers a surface of 40 to 50 sqm. There is a large bathroom with double sinks plus a tub and a separate shower.

And there is a comfortable seating area too. In our case, the room also featured a spacious separate toilet with a generous washbasin.

We had not asked for a preferred view towards south or west. So, we overlooked the east towards Lake Silvaplana, which is in fact my favorite one.

While we were in favor of our room – we opted for a modern one – , I was not especially fond of the carpet (“dirty” hue, which did not fit the color concept of the furnishings). And I would have preferred a sofa and an armchair instead of two armchairs. But those were little things. Overall, we were satisfied and felt at ease in our room.

Other facilities/Services at Hotel Waldhaus Sils

Waldhaus Sils has all the offerings you expect from a five-star property plus some more which you seldom find at other comparable houses. I am talking in this context about cultural activities in particular (see below). Another interesting fact about this hotel is that a full spa has been only available since the winter season 2016/17. Details follow in the respective section. Last but not least, there has been a new restaurant onsite since the winter season 2020/21, the GIGERS. More about it you find just afterwards.

Restaurants

There are four dining-spots available, from which three are possible to book also for outside guests (all but the Waldhaus Dining-Room). In case you care for smaller bites only, you can have them at the Bar and at this wonderful Great Lounge.

In addition, you find here also a terrace for warmer days. Executive Chef at the Waldhaus kitchen is Gero Porstein, who has been in charge in this function since 2018. Before, he was Executive Chef at the Carlton Hotel Saint Moritz (Restaurant Vittorio) and Hotel Eden Roc in Ascona (Restaurant Marina).

GIGERS

I start with the GIGERS as I have just mentioned it above. It is named after the founder of the Waldhaus, Josef Giger. You find it at the spot where the third tennis court used to be, across the street just adjoining the separate building (“Palais du Garage”). The nickname for it is “fondue restaurant”. Yet of course you get here more than that, yet basically expect comfort food here. GIGERS is housed in a modern building, a wooden quadrangle, at the edge of the larch forest. As I have not eaten here, I cannot comment how it is.

Arvenstube

The second restaurant that I do not now from personal experience is the Arvenstube (Stübli made of Swiss pine wood). It is about the à la carte dining-spot where they serve modern Swiss cuisine, based on traditional recipes, with local produce. If you wonder why I have not yet dined here nor at GIGERS, the answer can be found in the next restaurant that I am going into.

Waldhaus Dining-Room

This is the Waldhaus Dining-Room, precisely the dining-rooms.

Here you have dinner in case you are on half board, which most of the guests staying at the Waldhaus are. It is always a festive and at the same time a relaxed affair, taking in the meals at these elegant, high-ceiling dining-rooms. For my husband and me it is a much loved “ritual” which we do not want to miss, unless it is for the Chef’s Table (see below). On offer here  are three menus, which change daily, and from which you can order four to five courses. The food is sophisticated yet without chichi, made of high-quality produce, locally sourced whenever possible.

Chef’s Table

A fourth option is the mentioned Chef’s Table. It is available usually on Mondays or on request. And it is really worth booking if you are a wine lover and interested in witnessing the hustle and bustle of a large hotel cuisine.

The premises are quite a sight too: huge, high-ceilings and high windows.

And you are very close to all the happenings in here when seated at the long table by the windows. Before, you have an aperitif in the well-stocked wine cellar,

where you are part of choosing the today’s wines. And they are not stingy in this respect!

This experience (five courses including all drinks), which I strongly recommend, costs 265 SFR/US$ for non-Waldhaus guests and 195 SFR/US$ for Waldhaus guests (145 SFR/US$ if you are on half board).

Spa

I have already written a few word about the new spa, significantly expanded a few years ago. It now consists of 1,500 sqm of wellbeing, between water and the surrounding larch forest. The architect team of Miller & Maranta created a modern building that seamlessly mergers with the surroundings. And the existing indoor pool was cleverly included into the construction. There is also a fitness room, with fitness equipment by Technogym. The spa is under the management of a family member, Carla Lehner-Dietrich, from the fifth generation.

On the premises, you find a Finnish and a bio sauna along with steam baths, relaxation rooms, plunge and Kneipp pools as well as Swiss pine and larch relaxation pools. I am not much of a spa goer, but I really enjoyed the later two, which are beneficial after a long skiing or hiking day. And I found that they were appropriate from their size too.

Culture/Events

I already let you know about the hotel’s affinity to culture. For every guest to see, there is the house orchestra. It is a resident trio who plays salon music. And this in the great lounge during tea time and in the evening at the bar. While I find the former a good thing, I am not a particular fan of the latter. At a late hour, they often tend to play light music from days long gone by, which I personally find a bit out of place. But of course, this is a matter of taste.

Furthermore, the Waldhaus hosts and organizes numerous cultural events. Readings and concerts regularly take place here. A highlight is “Resonanzen” (“resonances”), an international cultural festival in September. Here you enjoy first-rate chamber music, readings and lectures.

Overall Hotel Waldhaus Sils Engadine

If you want to spend a few days in the splendid Upper Engadine in the eastern Swiss Alps and care for subdued and laid-back luxury, there is in my opinion no better option in the Saint Moritz area than Hotel Waldhaus Sils. You are close to the  glamorous vacation resort of Saint Moritz but far enough from its hustle and bustle. Here in beautiful natural surroundings above the village of Sils Maria you are more in for tranquility and low-keyness. While the Waldhaus is absolutely suitable for the luxury-minded traveler, it does not feel flashy. In addition, the hotel is relatively affordable and its clientele is more on the distinguished side. Plus, this lodging has been family owned and managed since 1908. And although the Waldhaus is a grand old dame, all the necessary renewals have been done!

What is next?

As we last visited Hotel Waldhaus Sils Engadine in wintertime, my husband and did activities like skiing and winter walking/hiking. And we did two truly beautiful walks/hikes that started right from this hotel. My next post will be about those. Come back and have a look if you are into this kind of activity!  I must claim that these two walks/hikes are the best I have ever done in this respect!

Last stay: February 2023

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