Hotel Tschuggen Arosa & Hotel Castell Zuoz in the Swiss Alps:

Winter vacations – skiing & winter hiking – is something that my husband and I do every year. And for this purpose, we favor upscale ski-in/ski-out hotels in Switzerland. While we had opted for Zermatt in the western Swiss Alps in recent years, we were looking for alternatives in this Corona winter. We felt like going to smaller ski resorts where we do not have to hop on crowded gondolas. In addition, we wanted to go somewhere with opportunities for winter hiking. And we found two great high-class hotels that were an ideal fit!

Both places we went to are in the eastern Swiss Alps. This was not a deliberate choice but more of a coincidence (best weather forecasts). On the one hand, we went to Arosa where we spent a few days over New Year at the Tschuggen Grand Hotel. On the other hand, we headed to the Upper Engadine, precisely to Zuoz, for winter vacations at the Hotel Castell.

While both hotels are good picks for demanding guests, they differ in several essential aspects. I start with giving you information about the Tschuggen Grand Hotel, followed by details on the Hotel Castell. Before doing so, I have to make an important point. Although it is about winter vacations in this blogpost, the resorts of Arosa and Zuoz are likewise suitable for summer tourism too! When I come to the respective hotels, I will quickly point out some possible activities for both seasons.

Tschuggen Grand Hotel *****^S Arosa

Just a few facts about the mountain resort Arosa, before diving into the hotel!

About Arosa – and what to do

Arosa in the canton of Grisons is a great destination, both in winter and summer. While in wintertime it is all about skiing and winter hiking,

you come here in summer especially for hiking and biking.

The ski-resort has been linked with the neighboring Lenzerheide since 2013. This makes it to one of the larger ski areas in the area with a total of 225 km (140 mi) of ski slopes. And Arosa Lenzerheide also features 140 km (87 mi) of winter hiking trails.

In summer, you can choose among 200 km (124 mi) of varied hiking and walking trails. And if you prefer biking, 141 cycle routes await you.

Location

Arosa lies at end of a sometimes narrow, very curvy road (Supposedly 365 curves!) that starts in Chur, the capital of Grisons. It is much easier to reach it by train instead, departing from the town of Chur as well. Once arrived in Arosa, you have to go further, to the so-called Innerarosa, to come to the Tschuggen. The hotel is just off the Obere Waldpromenade (upper forest promenade) and quietly located at the edge of the ski area.

And it has its own mountain railway, called Tschuggen Express.

It brings hotel guests in less than four minutes to the core of the ski area, and to many winter hiking trails too.  This is truly a unique ski-in/ski-out service in Switzerland!

Facilities

The hotel calls itself Tschuggen Grand Hotel, but be prepared, it does not appear as typical grand hotel! That is because the original building, dating from 1929, burned down in 1966. The hotel was reopened in 1970, built in contemporary architecture (it is not really a feast for the eyes).

Having said this, you find something here that really pleases the eye, the Tschuggen Bergoase (mountain oasis), the spa complex. The famous Swiss architect Mario Botta did the design, and it truly is an unmistakable landmark!

The wellness facilities are impressive, covering an area of 5,000 sqm. You find here several pools,

various saunas/steam baths, twelve treatment rooms, a separate ladies’ area, a hairstylist, a fitness center, medical wellness offerings and private spa suites.

On site, there are several restaurants (check out the separate chapter “food”), a number of boutiques, ski rentals and sale, E-mountain bikes to lend and a kindergarten. And the Tschuggen Grand Hotel is a member of The Leading Hotels of the World. It is also part of the Tschuggen Hotel Group that includes Hotel Eden Roc in Ascona (see here my blogpost about it), Carlton Hotel in Saint Moritz and Valsana Hotel in Arosa.

When it comes to the interior design, Carlo Rampazzi, was responsible for the décor. While it is similar to the one in the sister hotel Eden Roc Ascona, it is a bit less extravagant. I would it describe as elegant with rustic elements, adapted to the mountain world.

Rooms/Pricing

The total number of rooms is 128, from which are 34 suites and junior suites. Winter prices range from 365 to 3,590 SFR/US$, summer prices from 240 to 1,625 SFR/US$, and this per room including breakfast.

My husband and I chose the most upscale double room for our five-day stay over New Year, a Deluxe Double Room. The room we had was south facing and spacious enough (40 sqm). It boasted a sun loggia with a great view of the area, a granite bathroom

and my dearest feature, two comfortable leather armchairs.

Although it was a pleasant and comfortable room, it was not worth its high price tag (1,750 SFR/US$ per day including half board). Unfortunately it is a fact that you have to overspend if you want to vacate at this time at a luxury hotel in the Swiss mountains!

Food

If you want to dine at the Tschuggen “only,” opting for the half-board arrangement (dine around) is the thing to do. And that is what my husband and I went for. It costs 70 SFR/US$ in winter and 60 SFR/US$ in summer. If you do not make any bookings, you dine at the main restaurant, the elegant Grand Restaurant.

Here you choose five courses from a daily changing menu offering a vast selection. And the food is impeccable! I especially liked the Moving Mountains Signature Menu with modern and healthy dishes.

Alternatively, you can opt for the following restaurants: the gourmet restaurant (La Brezza for the winter season 2020/21), La Collina (informal, with a touch of the south), The Basement (casual, burgers, salads & steaks), Tschuggen Bar (small bites)

and the Spa Lounge (light bites, until 7 p.m.). In addition, the dine around also includes the Restaurant Twist at the sister hotel Valsana and the Restaurant Alpenblick, a mountain restaurant.

Normally, my husband and I like to try out the gourmet restaurants on site. This was not the case this time. We already know la Brezza (one star Michelin & 17 points Gault-Millau) from several fabulous dinners in Ascona where it has normally its domicile at the Eden Roc (post). And we found the food at the main restaurant, the Grand Restaurant, very good. Also the New Year’s Eve dinner was excellent.

Ambiance/Staff

As mentioned, the Tschuggen does not ooze the typical Grand Hotel atmosphere. And it has nothing of that rustic chalet-style hotel you often see in the mountains. Instead it is a just an ordinary high-rise building from the late sixties. Fortunately, it was “pimped up” with the spa building. Nine “sails”, made of steel and glass, direct the sun into the wellness center in daytime.

At night, they shine into the mountains in many colors.

When entering the lobby, a large space stretches out in front of you. At the same time, the ceiling height is low. And it is quite dark in here. One more thing caught my eye, the Tschuggen Bar is also part of this space. And it seamlessly begins near the elevators, which I find a bit odd.

Nevertheless, the interiors and the staff’s attitude exude elegance. In accordance with it, the crowd seems to consist of well-heeled couples and families. As to the service, it was excellent from start to finish. Especially the servers in the Grand Restaurant hit the perfect notes of warmth and friendliness with that touch of formality you expect from a luxury hotel.

Hotel Castell ****^S Zuoz, Upper Engadine

UPDATE: new management as from April 2022 (Christine Abel & Matthias Wettstein, before Sorell Hotel Tamina Bad Ragaz & Hotel Guarda Val Lenzerheide / former management (Irene & Martin Mueller) at Hotel Maistra160 Pontresina since October 2022 (hotel opening in summer 2023)

Just as with the Tschuggen Grand Hotel, some words to the mountain village Zuoz first! And then it goes to the hotel.

About Zuoz – and what to do

Zuoz is part of the Engadine, a long high Alpine valley in the canton of Grisons in the eastern Swiss Alps. While most people have already heard of the glamorous mountain resort here, Saint Moritz, Zuoz is less known. However, it is one the most beautiful villages in the Upper Engadine with stunningly adorned Engadine houses and gorgeous patrician buildings.

And if you travel with children, Zuoz was awarded the label of a Family Destination.

Zuoz’s ski area is not large (five lifts only), however surprisingly suitable for beginners and advanced skiers likewise. And if you would like to ski elsewhere in the Engadine, no worry. The Sleep + Ski offer of participating hotels allows you to purchase a ski pass at the favorable price of 45 SFR/US$ per day (for the whole stay only). If you want to go winter hiking instead, there are lots of such trails, too.

In summer, the Upper Engadine offers 580 km (360 mi) of varied hiking trails. If you are into biking, 537 cycle routes are here at your disposal. And in case you are a golfer, Zuoz-Madulain has its own 18-hole golf course.

Location

Here we are in the picturesque Upper Engadine yet it feels far away from showy Saint Moritz! You reach the hotel in twenty minutes by car from Saint Moritz. If you travel by train, it brings you in less than 30 minutes from Saint Moritz to the railway station in Zuoz (where they pick you up from the hotel if desired).

The Castell towers high above the idyllic village of Zuoz.

From here you reach the hotel in twenty minutes by foot. Alternatively, there is the hotel shuttle bus between Zuoz village and the Castell. From the hotel you have fantastic views of the Inn valley (Inntal). You are only steps away from the ski slopes, so it is ideal for a perfect ski-in/ski-out experience. If you prefer skiing in the Saint Moritz area, there is a shuttle available. Hiking trails start right by the hotel. And the best is the tranquil setting far from the hustle and bustle of Saint Moritz.

Facilities

The Castell is a four-star superior hotel and that comes along with fewer amenities compared to a five-star accommodation. What caught my eye first that there is no doorman service. We were asked if we needed help with the baggage. But we (politely) denied when we saw that other guests carried their suitcases themselves to their room. And the ski room is frugal with no assigned compartment for each party. There is also no turn down service but I can do well without it, especially in these Corona times.

Otherwise, there is everything you need, I think, also for discerning guests. First of all, the hotel is in a beautiful Art Nouveau building, constructed in 1913.

In 1996, Ruedi Bechtler, an art collector, bought it, renovated it (in 2004) and converted it into a “art hotel”. Everywhere you go, you are confronted with art. I think it is the only hotel where I have walked down all the corridors to have a look at the art on the walls!

As to the restaurant, please refer to the separate chapter “food”. In term of wellness, there is a hammam on site offering a relaxing and cleansing ritual, which is a nice thing to do. Massages and treatments are also available. Furthermore, there is an outdoor wellness area consisting of a rock pool (only in summer, not for swimming) and a small Finnish sauna hut.

At the top of the hotel tower you find a small fitness room.

What it lacks in size, it makes up for with commanding views!

It may further be mentioned that the Castell is very child friendly. You find here a kids club, a supervised children’s table, a playground in summer, an ice rink in winter, hammam visits for kids and others. And to complete the offerings, the hotel has its own studio cinema.

Rooms/Pricing

Out of the 68 rooms you can choose from nine categories. The smallest room is 20 sqm (Castell), the biggest room 40 sqm (Junior Suite resp. Family Room). While half the rooms are designed in a modern style (UN-Studios Amsterdam), the other half is kept in a contemporary Alpine décor (architect Hans-Joerg Ruch Saint Moritz). Rates are (Easter 2021) from 252 to 414 SFR/US$ with breakfast per room and day. Half board costs 65 SFR/US$ more per person and day. I found the pricing very reasonable and affordable.

My husband and went for the Junior Suite, the largest room (together with the Family Room) with splendid views of the Inn valley.

We were on the second floor, just above the outdoor restaurant (which was a bit inconvenient because it served as smoking area). It is a comfortable albeit not fancy accommodation in a minimalistic décor. The room is full of local pinewood. It features a large walk-in closet, a seating area, an electrically adjustable bed, a small balcony  and a spacious bathroom with bathtub and separate shower.

Food

When looking for something to eat, you can choose among the restaurant, the bar or the terrace (weather permitting). The restaurant offers two opportunities, the beautiful Art Nouveau dining room

and the Belvair,

another enchanting space.

The food at the Castell Restaurant is great! If you are on half board, you can choose four courses from the daily changing menu. And the size of portions is quite generous.

The chef, Helmut Leitner, has been in charge since late 2015. He stems from the South Tyrol, and you notice that Italian-German touch in his refined cuisine (14 points Gault Millau). If you care for fine wines, then put yourselves in the hands of Martin Mueller, the hotel manager. He is not only a proven wine expert but has real finds in the wine cellar. And they are also reasonably priced!

For lunch or smaller bites, head to The Red Bar. This truly is an eye-catcher, designed by Gabrielle Haechler, a Zurich architect, and Pipilotti Rist, an internationally recognized artist.

When the weather permits it, you also can have a seat on the inviting terrace, a work of the Japanese artist Tadashi Kawamata.

Ambiance/Staff

If you are on the lookout for pure luxury, a distinguished clientele or a place where people dress up in the evening, the Castell might be not your first choice. However, if you favor a casual relaxed atmosphere where a diverse crowd gathers to live the good life, you are right here.

The hotel is a gem, and this in many respects: the location, the building, the interiors, the artsy feel, the food. The only thing that cannot fully keep up with it, are the guest rooms which tend to be a bit too much on the functional side. Having said that, you do not have to break your wallet when vacationing here.

There is one more plus point at the Castell, the husband-and-wife-team who have managed the place since the 2015 summer season, Irene and Martin Mueller. When my husband and I met the wife upon arrival, I was sure sure that I knew her from somewhere. After some thinking,  it came to my mind. We knew the two of them from several stays at the Hotel Waldhaus in Sils where they had been working for 15 years. And this in a memorable way! And they really do a great job at the Castell, too. The same goes for the staff, who knows its stuff.

Overall: ski-in/ski-out in style

My husband and I got to know two ski-in/ski-out high class hotels in Switzerland in this winter season, the Tschuggen in Arosa and the Castell in Zuoz. Both are located in the eastern Swiss Alps. While they both offer a preferred location, good-quality facilities and dining in style, the similarities end here.

As to the facilities, it is clear that the the five-star superior Hotel Tschuggen has more to offer in this regard than the four-star superior Hotel Castell. For example, there is no doorman service, only a small functional ski room and no turndown in the evening at the latter. However, you don’t have to deprive yourself of other amenities at the Castell!

When it comes to the guest rooms, the ones at the Castell are a bit on the frugal side yet well-kept. And you get value for money here. Go for the Junior Suite here if you care for more space and both a bathtub and a separate shower. The Tschuggen has nicely appointed rooms but be prepared to fork out some cash at certain times (for instance over New Year).

In terms of ambiance, the Tschuggen is an elegant place where immaculate staff is of service to an affluent clientele. If you appreciate a more laid-back ambiance along a varied crowd and great hospitality by a husband-and-wife-team, you are better off at the Castell.

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Date of stay: Tschuggen January 2021, Castell February 2021

The post 2 great high-class hotels to ski-in/ski-out in Switzerland first appeared on Swiss Traveler