Review of Restaurant Tiefmatt, Holderbank near Olten, Switzerland
UPDATE: new management as from January 2023
Mountain restaurant becomes a gourmet destination:
Location/Ambiance
The Tiefmatt, which by the way offers also five rooms for staying overnight and two rooms for banquets and seminars, was recently renovated. The interior’s decor can best be described as rustic chic with simple wooden tables and chairs. You find here a bar counter where the so-called 3D wine list is presented (all the bottles are lined up beside each other) and a chalk board with the menu of the day. You feel comfortable in here.
There is also an outdoor area, where my husband and I dined on a warm summer evening with views of the verdant hills, a really nice experience!
Food concept
As to the main course, you can choose between meat, fish or a vegetarian option. When we were here, the main course consisted of lamb, which could be replaced by either a beef steak or a beef stroganoff. Apart from this menu of the day, there are small bites on offer just as big salads, beefsteak tartar or tartes flambees (Alsatian pizzas).
Sampled food
The start to the dinner made a bowl of green salad with a delicious strawberry-rosemary dressing for the two of us. In addition, we got a small bowl each with poached chicken and pickled cucumber what matched nicely with the salad.
The meal found its continuation in a creamy parsnips soup seasoned with ginger and served in a jug. To that, a salad nicoise was given, an unusual but surprisingly fitting complement.
As a main, we went for the regular meat course consisting of lamb stripes in a light whiskey-cream sauce together with basmati rice and seasonal vegetables. The meat was perfectly prepared, tender and full of taste.
For dessert, a mango parfait was served with a freshly baked, tasty German hazelnut macaroon, which was a good end to a successful meal.
Service/Price
When my husband and I dined at the Tiefmatt, the restaurant manager was responsible for the service, and she did a great job. While being friendly and relaxed, she was also competent and informative, especially when it came to the subject of wine.
The chef was also helping out in the service when needed. He informed about the menu of the day and took orders, a nice touch. Speaking of the chef, Christian von Burg oversees the kitchen now. When the Tiefmatt was opened half a year ago, another one was in charge, Sascha Berther, awarded with one star Michelin and 16 points Gault Millau. As far as the current chef is concerned, I have no knowledge of his career.Dining at this eatery is very good value indeed, the four-course menu for SFR 58 is very affordable compared to other restaurants in the area and given the quality.
Overall
The secluded mountain restaurant Tiefmatt underwent a change to a foodies’ place in March. The setting is amazing and the eatery impresses with a rustic chic ambiance, an innovative casual fine dining concept as well as a hospitable and knowledgeable service. If you are into well-made classic cuisine with a twist and if you are an experienced mountain driver (Uphill drive on a narrow street!) or have such a driver at your disposal, give it a try!
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