Paris is my favorite city in the world, so it regularly finds its way onto my travel itinerary. My husband and I love staying in the Marais district, a historic yet trendy neighborhood that is perfect not only for exploring Paris but also for dining out. Located in the 3rd and 4th arrondissements on the Right Bank of the Seine, the Marais offers no shortage of fabulous Michelin-starred restaurants — astonishingly, in almost every price range. In early March this year, with favorable weather forecasts ahead, my husband and I did not hesitate for long before heading to Paris once again. We booked a small boutique hotel in the Marais, which I will share more details about at the end of this post. We also made reservations at three of the best nearby Michelin-starred restaurants, choosing them for their modern appeal, excellent reviews, and good value for money.

Below, you’ll find my latest discoveries among Paris’s top Michelin-starred eateries. You can also check out my recommendations from our previous Marais stay in 2022, featuring three one-star Michelin restaurants and one Michelin-recognized dining spot. All of them continue to receive excellent reviews. While some are located in the Marais, others are slightly farther away — though still within walking distance.

1. Restaurant Datil Paris, one of the best restaurants in the Marais

3th arrondissement, 1 star Michelin, 14 points Gault Millau, 50 Best Discovery (by the makers of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants)

About

Here is Manon Fleury, the 35-year-old “cheffe” — the term used in France for a female chef — at the helm. When she opened Datil in September 2023, it was considered the hottest new dining spot on Paris’s gastronomic scene. After dining there, I can understand why: what I experienced was unlike anything I had tasted before. It definitely ranks among the best restaurants in the Marais neighborhood. Before opening Datil, Fleury worked in several renowned kitchens, including Blue Hill at Stone Barns in New York, which holds two Michelin stars. That experience proved formative, introducing her to the farm-to-table philosophy and deepening her appreciation for plant-based cooking.

Experience

That said, the minimalist restaurant, designed in natural hues,

does not focus exclusively on plants. Animal proteins are also present, although meat and fish never dominate the plate. During our visit, service was friendly and informative, even if somewhat slow at both the beginning and end of the evening. In total, we spent more than three hours there. Datil offers only a seven-course tasting menu, priced at €160. While it was the most expensive meal of our trip, I found the pricing fair considering both the quality and the philosophy behind the restaurant.

From what I have read about Fleury, she advocates not only for environmental responsibility and zero-waste cooking, but also for gender equality, with most of her team made up of women. She is also the co-founder of an association that fights violence in professional kitchens. As for the meal itself, her focus on plants was evident throughout, yet always in a way that remained appealing even for flexitarians. Every dish felt light, balanced, and precise. Techniques such as extraction and fermentation play a central role in her cuisine, allowing intricate flavors and subtle nuances to emerge from the ingredients. At times, the meal even reminded me of Japanese kaiseki cuisine. All in all, you get at this Marais restaurant plant-driven fine dining at its best.

2. Restaurant H Paris

4th arrondissement, 1 star Michelin, 14 points Gault Millau

About

Another candidate for the title as one of best fine-dining restaurant in the Marais is “H”. This single letter stands for Hubert Duchenne, who has been running his own establishment since 2016. When he opened the eatery, just steps from the Bastille, he was only 27 years old. The year before, he had been named “Young Talent” by Gault & Millau, and only one year after opening, the restaurant earned its Michelin star. Although Duchenne is originally from Normandy, he has long lived and worked in Paris.

Experience

Upon entering the elegant yet welcoming 20-seat dining room,

my husband and I felt comfortable immediately. Much of that was thanks to the maître d’, who struck exactly the right balance of professionalism and warmth. From our table, I could also glimpse the kitchen through a window, where the chef and his team worked in perfect harmony.

When it came to ordering, we chose the longer tasting menu — seven courses for €130 — although a shorter five-course version is also available for €105. Considering the quality, this represents exceptional value for money. Duchenne even highlights on his website that he runs one of the least expensive Michelin-starred restaurants in France, and after dining there, I can certainly agree.

Hubert Duchenne and his team delivered an outstanding performance that evening. His cuisine is rooted in classic French cooking but refined with modern touches. Technically, I found the dishes brilliant and stylistically assured. This became evident from the very first course: asparagus paired with an exquisite orange sabayon. It continued with his signature dish of crab, salicornia, and parsley. Everything that followed — pollack with a fantastic beurre blanc, faux-filet de bœuf, and two excellent desserts — left me absolutely delighted. Combined with the impeccable service, it made for a truly memorable dinner.

3. Restaurant Bombance Paris

4th arrondissement, Michelin, 13 points Gault Millau

About

My husband and I were looking for a place to enjoy a small lunch before heading home. Bombance, which means “Feast”,  seemed perfect for this purpose. I was surprised by how very reasonable their lunch offer was — three courses for €30. Above all, I was impressed by the menu, which struck me as a thoughtful blend of traditional and contemporary cuisine with a healthy touch.

Bombance is a bistronomic restaurant with a concise menu that changes regularly. Seasonal ingredients are locally sourced, and the wine selection also emphasizes quality. For dinner, guests can choose either a three-course menu for €60 or order à la carte (starters €17, mains €33, desserts €15). As for the people behind Bombance, I had to dig a little deeper, as their website reveals very little. From what I found, the restaurant was created by two entrepreneurs who met at a Parisian culinary school: Louis Baguenault and Paul Gillet. When Bombance opened in August 2023, the kitchen was led by Louis’ former mentor. A year later, a new chef, Magali Martini, took over.

Experience

Now to our experience at Bombance. I was already excited as we approached the restaurant. I found the green-on-green exterior especially charming,

and I loved the small room by the entrance with its detached bench tables.

In the end, though, we opted for the more comfortable seating in the main dining room.

While the space is somewhat dark and narrow, it still feels sympa — pleasant and inviting, as the French would say. There is even a third, more secluded room with an especially cozy atmosphere.

As for the food, we chose the previously mentioned three-course lunch menu: a starter and dessert from the menu, plus either the “Special of the Day” or the “Crispy Quinoa” as a main. We went for the latter without quite knowing what to expect. It turned out to be quinoa falafel served with asparagus and fresh cheese — delicious, just like the starter (smoked cod with aioli) and the desserts (“Vanilla & Exotic Fruits” and “Like a Black Forest Cherry Cake”).

The service was also courteous and attentive.

Where to stay in style in the Marais neighborhood

In our hunt for the best restaurants in the Marais offering value for money, we also longed for staying in style. As announced, I would like to share two stylish luxury hotels in this neighborhood with you. One was our choice for this year’s trip, the other dates back to our 2022 visit. Both are boutique hotels, though quite different in character. Our 2026 choice, Dupond-Smith, has just eight rooms, while Cours des Vosges (stay in 2022) offers twelve. Find out more in the sections below.

1. Hotel Dupond-Smith Marais/Paris

Location/Rooms

I think this tiny hotel in the heart of the Marais is quite a find. The five-star property is housed in a 17th-century, five-story mansion on a quiet street.

The first floor contains a small reception area and a lounge where breakfast is served — although seating is limited to just six guests.

Floors two through five each feature two guest rooms varying in size from 18 to 39 square meters. While all rooms are styled in a contemporary way, each has its own distinct character and bears the name of an illustrious figure or celebrity. Some even come with balconies or private courtyards. My husband and I stayed in the James Jewel Suite (39 sqm).

Our room

We were very pleased with our room: plenty of space, a cheerful red-and-yellow color scheme,

and a generous wet bar.

A nicely sized dining table — ideal for breakfast — , a spacious bathroom,

and a separate toilet with its own hand basin

completed the setup. We actually had breakfast in our room twice because a group had booked the lounge during our preferred time slot. The exceptionally friendly and helpful receptionist informed us in advance, which was absolutely fine. The breakfast he brought to our room was good, although the pastries were perhaps slightly oversized. Outstanding, however, was the banana bread he baked fresh every day — he even shared the recipe with us.

Final thoughts

In general, Dupond-Smith excelled in service. The main receptionist — the one with the twirled mustache who also appears on the website — is truly gifted at his job, though all the staff members we encountered were excellent. I can wholeheartedly recommend this hotel if you appreciate quiet luxury. Operating since September 2019, the hotel is no longer brand new, but it is very well maintained. My only criticism is that the towel warmer did not work during our stay, despite attempts to fix it. Still, this was only a minor issue. We thoroughly enjoyed our time here.

2. Hotel Cours des Vosges Marais/Paris

As I already covered this hotel in a previous post, I will not go into too much detail here. Suffice it to say that it is a beautiful property with one major asset: its view overlooking what is probably the most magnificent square in Paris — Place des Vosges,

one of my favorite spots in the city.

While we very much enjoyed our stay at Hotel Cours des Vosges at the time, I am not sure whether we would return today.

To give you well-founded advice, I checked the current reviews, which are somewhat mixed — and I can understand why. First of all, you should be aware that the hotel offers little beyond the room itself.

Despite its five-star rating, there is no real reception area. Breakfast is available, but from what I read, it is now served exclusively in-room. During our 2022 stay, we were able to have breakfast on the terrace of the associated pastry shop,

although there was no indoor seating. Apparently, this is no longer possible.

Secondly, I find the current pricing exaggerated. When comparing two similar guest rooms, a stay at Cours des Vosges costs roughly twice as much as one at Dupond-Smith. In my opinion, this price difference is not justified, even though Cours des Vosges is slightly more stylish and offers exceptional views. Dupond-Smith, on the other hand, provides highly personalized service that truly meets the standards of a luxury hotel.

Date of stay: March 2026

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The post Where to go in Paris for great Michelin (starred) restaurants in 2026 first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post Where to go in Paris for great Michelin (starred) restaurants in 2026 appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

It is high time to report on my personal best (casual fine-dining) restaurants I have discovered in Zurich in the last one and half years. As of late, it becomes more difficult to label the dining spots I am drawn to in Switzerland’s biggest city. The longer, the more my husband and I opt for places that do not qualify as traditional fine dining. This because they have a casual ambiance and are often minimalistic in furnishing. In terms of food, you get modern offerings at them, frequently difficult to assign to a specific country or region. Yet what they all have in common is their approach of serving high-quality food. I finally decided to still call them casual fine-dining spots – as I have done so for quite some time on this blog. This in contrast to traditional fine-dining establishments with sophisticated ambiance and higher prices.

Now to my personal best culinary discoveries in Zurich. All of them are casual fine-dining restaurants, this in the sense that “fine” is synonymous with “good food”. I divide them in two categories only. The first is “Modern European food”, the other is “Contemporary non-European food”. The order in which I list them is irrelevant (it actually is in the sequence of my visits).

Best casual fine-dining Zurich restaurants offering modern European food

1. Restaurant Ameo Zurich (district 3)

(Michelin listed, 15 points Gault Millau)

Ameo’s focus on “fine dining with art” distinguishes it from other comparable places. Here chef Julien Muehlebach draws inspiration from an in-house art exhibition, which changes every quarter.

He manages the pleasant spot together with Maximilian Dullinger, who is responsible for the front of house and a true wine geek. Both are young, talented and ambitious. They got to know each other at their former work place, Equi-Table. Here they shared the dream of opening a restaurant together. And this became true in October 2023 with the opening of Ameo in Zurich-Wiedikon.

My husband and I have visited Ameo already three times. It is possibly my darling in terms of best casual-fine dining restaurants in Zurich right now. On offer here is a tasting menu only, tailored to the current art exhibition.

The chef is shaped by his origins, his father is Swiss, his mother French. He usually sources regionally yet without being dogmatic. And he has a precise cooking style showcasing enticing combinations. I vividly remember the “coffin” in the context with a vampire exhibition, which actually was a delightful strawberry creation accompanied by rhubarb sorbet.

The menu is available in 4 to 6 courses (120/135/145 SFR).

The food can be paired with wines (60/75/85 SFR) or non-alcoholic drinks (50/65/75 SFR). So far, we have opted for the wine pairing on both occasions. And we found it offered not only great value but every glass enhanced the flavor of each dish just perfectly.

2. Restaurant Bauernschaenke (district 1)

(Michelin listed, 15 points Gault Millau)

The Bauernschaenke, which translates in farmer’s tavern, is the first of Nenad Mlinarevic’s – one of Zurich’s most known restaurateurs – quite a few establishments. It is tucked away in a narrow alley in Zurich’s Niederdorf in a historic property,

which is more than 100 years old.

This restaurant under Nenad’s lead was opened in April 2018 with the kitchen helmed by Thomas Brandner. While the chef left to work at the former Brasserie Sued, he has recently returned to the Bauernschaenke. The Gault Millau Guide commented this as good news!

I only know this spot from having lunch here with a friend, when the former chef was in charge. Concept wise you are in here for uncomplicated fine dining with refined soul food, which is meant to be shared. You can do this either in the form of a Tavolata (3/4/5 courses at 95/115/125 SFR) or à la carte (snacks 5.50-8 SFR, starters 15-26 SFR, mains 14-49 SFR, desserts 6.50-16 SFR). As to lunch, when I was here in fall 2024, a reduced menu was on offer. We could choose between a Bento Box with three small starters and a main course or a range of à la carte dishes. We opted for the former and especially liked the starter trio consisting of celery soup with yuzu, tomato salad with cashew mousse and beef tartare with topinambur chips.

3. Restaurant Rechberg 1837 (district 1)

(Michelin listed, 15 points Gault Millau)

Rechberg 1837 has quite a special concept.

You only get here dishes made with ingredients that were already available in Switzerland in 1837. And they only source form regional farmers. Plus, preserving, fermenting and smoking food is part of the program. The restaurant has been running with this sustainable and socially responsible approach since 2016. When I dined here with my family in spring 2025, chef And Bolliger oversaw the kitchen. In September 2025, a new duo took over, Mira Labusch and Flavia Niederer, both member of Generation Z. From what I understand, the ideal behind Rechberg 1837 has remained unchanged, yet the two young ladies brought a “breath of fresh air” to the whole.

On our visit, we opted for the 7-course Tasting Menu (160 SFR),

which was totally fine yet did not wow us. I cannot say exactly what the reason was. Although everything was well-prepared and tasty, I did not consider it as exciting enough. In the meantime, menu prices went down (4/7 courses at 95/120 SFR). And they introduced an à-la-carte offer in spring 2025 (starters 8-31 SFR, mains 34-45 SFR, desserts 16-21 SFR).

4. Restaurant Rémy (district 3), one of the best casual-fine dining restaurants in Zurich

(Michelin listed, 15 points Gault Millau)

Zurich-Wiedikon has no shortage of good casual fine-dining outlets. I mentioned earlier Ameo, and Rémy is another one. The two share quite a few similarities: a young chef with a Swiss-French connection – here Simon Mueller, Saint Rémy-de-Provence is his place of longing – , a 4-6-course tasting menu only – here at 125/145/160 SFR – and uncompromisingly modern interiors. As to the latter, it is kept in dark colours with a sophisticated lighting.

Rémy, opened in November 2022, is located in a listed post-war building

right by the train station Zurich-Wiedikon.

As we dined here on a hot summer evening, we could do his on their tiny backyard balcony, which was lovely. Our server was Jaro, an extraordinarily warm person.

As the Champagne we ordered was not yet ready for serving, he offered us a small glass of their house brand to start the dinner. What a nice touch! The evening not only began well, but continued to be enjoyable. After an array of tasty snacks, we were in for agnolotti, rainbow trout and beef short rib. Vegetables were an important component – grown in their own garden in Zurich-Albisrieden. A divine pre-dessert, a vegetable-ginger sorbet, and a strawberry ice-cream with cheesecake cream made the end.

What a wonderful dinner this was, with an elaborate cuisine, great hospitality and a pleasantly unpretentious ambiance!

5. Restaurant Rosaly’s (district 1)

(15 points Gault Millau)

This dining spot is maybe the only one with a traditional touch among the ones I present to you in this post.

Chef Fabio Lombardi prepares here Swiss classics just as Wiener Schnitzel or Zurich-style Sliced Veal. Yet also more contemporary creations from the Mediterranean and the French cuisine are served at this cozy place with its relaxed feel.

While Rosaly’s has been in business since 1992, I only visited it in fall 2025 for the first time together with my family. And we had a pleasant evening here with fine food, amiable staff and a complimentary Rosaly’s Chocolate Cake

for me (we celebrated my birthday). So, we vowed to return.

The mains section of the menu features dishes divided into three categories. In the Classics (29-52 SFR) you find the ones I mentioned at the beginning. The Signature Dishes include Loup de Mer (129 SFR for two). And Bouillabaisse (49 SFR) is one of the Chef’s Specials. To start the meal you can make your selection from the Snacks (21-29 SFR) or the Soups & Starters (16-32 SFR). When it comes to desserts, either choose one of the sweet options just as Caribbean Pavlova (19 SFR) or opt for the in-house made ice-cream (6 SFR per scoop). On our evening, we had among others Lobster and Ceviche as starters, which were great.

The main Zurich-style Slices Veal was superb too, tender and rich.

6. Restaurant Silex (district 4)

(Michelin listed, 15 points Gault Millau)

There is yet another excellent casual fine-dining spot in Zurich Wiedikon, Silex, opened in November 2021. I already mentioned Ameo and Rémy above. Silex fits in seamlessly in terms of high-quality cooking and simple furnishings. As to the latter, it is about a corner property with a partially visible kitchen.

Here chef George Tomlin is at work, a British native. He previously was sous-chef at the two-star Michelin The Clove Club London. In contrast to the before mentioned eateries, he celebrates a pan-European cuisine. It is modern, showing his creative flair with somewhat original dishes.

If you should wonder about the dining spot’s name, Silex. It means flint in French, a hard quartz that forms in rocks like chalk. And flinty soils are excellent for producing high-quality wine, for instance in the Loire valley. As it turns out, they really have a knack for good wine at Silex. The food offerings here include a 5-course Tasting Menu (119 SFR) and à la carte dishes (small 7-18 SFR, intermediate 23-26 SFR, mains 33-48 SFR, desserts 7-15 SFR).

On our party’s arrival on an early Saturday evening, the place was already buzzing. We were ushered to the front table in the main dining room. While it was one of the least busy spots, you could feel a cold draft every time the entry door opened. And the banquette seating along the house wall was not exactly comfortable (wooden benches without cushions). A nice server took care of us and made sure that we had everything we needed. We ordered from the à la carte menu and got tasty and unique starters – among other Salsify with Pine Nuts & Jersey Blue Custard.

The same was true for the mains – think for instance of Trout with Smoked Trout Liver, Trout Roe and Potato.

And it was not any different when it came to desserts, for example a Black Garlic Cheesecake.

When dining here, you truly leave the beaten path! But it is a bit of a shame that they do not offer tea to end the meal.

7. Restaurant Capri Bistrot (district 8)

Restaurant Capri –  in business since 1950 – was newly opened in May 2025 by chef Markus Stoeckle and others.

This chef gained notoriety by his unusual modern Bavarian tavern Rosi (my post), which he ran for 8 years – it was closed end of 2025. Yet the star at the new Capri Bistro is his former sous chef at Rosi, Charles Aggett. He comes from greater London and has previously worked at two three-star Michelin dining spots, Maaemo in Oslo and Memories in Bad Ragaz.

On the occasion of the new beginning at Capri Bistrot, the facilities were updated. The result is a classic-contemporary bistrot with 70 seats and a spacious outdoor area. Due to the size of the restaurant, there is no precision plating on offer but simple dishes yet with finesse. Here you make your choice out of an à la carte menu: Small Plates 8-24 SFR, Oyster/per Piece 7-8 SFR, Starters 18-39 SFR, Pasta 29-84 SFR, Mains 32-76 SFR , Sides 9-12 SFR and Desserts 9-16 SFR.

I liked the stylish vibe of Capri Bistrot with the subtle green banquette seating and the fashionable burgundy chairs. Also the basketball hoop with the disco ball was an eye-catcher.

Food wise, the starters of our party of four were well made, tasty and generous in size.

In terms of mains,  the Chicken Cesar (half Wiener schnitzel, half Cesar salad) was great, it has the potential for a cult dish! Both the Parmigiana and the Paccheri Pasta with Morel and Perigord Truffle were delightful, but the portion with the former was a bit small.

My personal culinary highlights were the desserts – I could try three – , all of them were a hit!

Service was friendly but did not stand out.

Best relaxed high-quality Zurich restaurants serving contemporary non-European food

Here I need to elaborate a bit before I get to the individual places. This is because I feature here three restaurants that are owned by the same person, Dan Shu. And all are part of the best what Zurich has to offer in terms of casual fine dining. Ever since this chef opened his first eatery in Zurich – Gaijin Izakaya in January 2020 – , I wanted to dine here. The main reason was the China-born, Canada-raised chef’s impressive vitae. He worked at two famous Michelin-starred restaurants in the U.S. – 3-star Alinea Chicago & 2-star Daniel New York – before coming to Switzerland. Furthermore, I was drawn by his take on the Izakaya (Japanese tavern) concept.

It was spring 2024 by the time I finally managed to visit Gaijin Izakaya.

In the meantime, the chef had already opened his second restaurant, Old Inn (in April 2023). Baobae in June 2025 followed,

and the latest is Chifa Izakaya (in November 2025)

together with his friend Paulo Timoteo (former Pueente). While I have not yet dined at the Old Inn, I have already at Baobae and Chifa Izakaya. So, I can report on them further below.

One more remark to the chef’s approach, which I would summarize as follows. I already mentioned “soul food” above (Bauernschaenke), and there is also the term “comfort food”. While the former seems to have roots in the ethnic cuisine of African Americans, the latter is food that evokes childhood memories. Yet, I think that nowadays both merge somewhat into one another. It is about dishes that warm the soul and give a deep feeling of satisfaction. They are full of flavor and hearty. Now what does Dan Shu has in mind with these concepts? He takes them as a basis and adapts them to modern times.

1. Restaurant Gaijin Izakaya (district 4), one of best casual fine-dining Zurich restaurants

(Michelin Bib Gourmand, 14 points Gault Millau)

I have already introduced the chef here, Dan Shu, above. So, no more info about him. There is only one addition to make. While the chef opened Gaijin Izakaya – translates in foreigner tavern – already in 202o, he only visited Japan four years later for the first time, which I find a bid odd. Because I know from personal experience how much my concept of Japanese cuisine changed after actually having been there. Be it as it may, I loved what we got at Gaijin Izakaya, authentic or not (rather the latter). My husband and I let the chef decide what to serve us (Omakase at 96 SFR). They call it “For the Brave and Adventurous”  here.

On our visit, you could have the above Omakase as Gourmand version (136 SFR) or with two additions (Wagyu Party 50 gr or Bluefin Tuna “Chutoro” from Tanaka San 60 gr (+ 25 SFR each).

We opted for the latter and got – as promised on the menu – a wild ride! We got ten courses plus the ordered additional one. The menu was perfectly tailored to my preference. This meant that there was not too much meat – we had two such dishes (beef tartare and duck with green rice). Alternatively, you  can go for à la carte and make your choice out of following categories: Wagyu (9-30 SFR), Cold (7-27 SFR), Hot & Crispy (6.50-20 SFR), Fire (12-31 SFR) and Dessert (15 SFR).

Two more remarks to this dining spot. While I thought the interiors were okay, I found the chairs a bit old-fashioned (probably taken over from the predecessor). Second, I would have preferred cloth napkins.

2. Restaurant Sentosa (district 4)

Restaurant Sentosa is probably the first far and wide that serves Singapore cuisine. In case you should wonder about this culinary style, it is a melting pot, fusing flavors of China, India, Indonesia and Malaysia. As my husband and I know Singapore quite well – see my posts – , we were eager to dine here. Sentosa was opened in February 2024 by the Singaporean Jerry Tan who has been living in Switzerland for many years. When I visited the dining spot with my family, the staff welcomed us amiably and gave us a nice table. While my husband and I were waiting for our son and his partner, we sipped from our fine – not too heavy – Singapore Sling

and had a look around. And we liked what we saw, especially the historical fire place and windows.

Food wise, you get here typical Hawker staples yet delicately and precisely prepared. For Starters (6.50-22.50 SFR), we chose the Dim Sum Dynasty, Gyoza and Jewel for the four of us to share – which was perfect in quantity.

In terms of Specialities (16.50-29.50 SFR)/Mains (16.50-33.50 SFR), we tried out Nasi Goreng, Laksa Sentosa and Sentosa Chicken Curry.

When it came to desserts (6.50-9.50 SFR), we opted for two Mochis each, and got one for free!

One last thing, cloth napkins would have been nice – a demand that never gets old 😉

3. Restaurant Akaraka (district 4)

Akaraka is quite an unusual spot because you get here not only good food, precisely authentic Korean one, but also classical music.

The reason for this is the chef’s first career as opera singer in the chorus of the Zurich’s Opera House. Unfortunately, he endured a blast trauma as a consequence of a sound engineer’s mistake. Thus, the Korean singer had to end his first career and had to look out for an alternative one. He found its second calling as a chef and opened a Korean restaurant. Its name Akaraka means through music and joy we become one.

In terms of Korean cuisine in Zurich, chef Pyong-Chin Han is the longest-serving one in Zurich (since 2010). He once said about this kind of cuisine that you cannot easily copy it. This in contrast to other Asian ones where this is possible without problems. According to him, one must know the Korean taste to reproduce it correctly. While I am not very familiar with this cuisine, I liked what we got here, a six-course tasting menu only (75 SFR). Three options are available: meat, fish or vegetarian. In case you opt for the former or the latter, there is one more choice. You have to decide whether you wish the Korean classic of Bibimbap, a rice dish, as main or not. You can also order an additional course, spicy rice cakes – what we did.

In terms of vocal interludes, you have to bring a bit of patience as they are numerous. And again, cloth napkins would have been preferable.

4. Restaurant Edomae (district 1)

(14 points Gault Millau)

Edomae was on my to-go list because a talented Japanese chef, Kenichi Arimura, was on the helm here. In the meantime, he moved on to open his own place (Mura), and chef Kinfai Choy is now in charge. Nevertheless, I thought this Japanese eatery, known for its good sushi prepared by a sushi master before the guests’ eyes, was worth a try. So, I had lunch here with my family. While the Omakase experience at the counter (175 SFR) is only available in the evening,

this was out of the question for us. So, we made our choice out of the the Lunch Menu. Here you get Donburi Bowls (28-34 SFR), Udon Noodles (29 SFR) or Set Menus just as Sushi, Sashimi or other dishes like Yakiniku or Tempura (29-35 SFR). You can start with Snacks (8-12.50 SFR) and end with Desserts (5-12 SFR).

Our party went for a Flamed Salmon Donbury Bowl and a Shake (Salmon) Teriyaki Set Menu. The former consisted of sushi rice, salad, onsen egg and fish, accompanied with cabbage salad and miso soup. The latter included the same accompaniments plus sushi rice and pickles. And the fish was paired with vegetables.

Everything was tasty and plentiful. As to the ambiance here, it is sleek and understated. And there is nothing to muffle the sound from the guests when Edomae is full. So be prepared that it can become very noisy in here.

5. Restaurant Baobae (district 3), a new discovery in best casual fine-dining Zurich restaurants

This is Dan Shu’s new eatery, opened in May 2025 together with his wife May. Baobae means darling, and it is a family affair. Also his parents and friends helped with creating the place. Here it is about modern Chinese fare yet with Swiss touches. The menu is divided into dishes from China’s north (spicy & aromatic, 10-29 SFR), south (fish & seafood, 8-39 SFR) and west (meat dishes popular all over the world, 12-35 SFR). And the result is often food that falls in the category of soul and/or comfort food. My husband and I chose the BaoBae Tasting Journey (10 courses in 4 parts) plus the Kagoshima Wagyu Entrecôte 20 gr (+10 SFR).

The start made beef dumplings, cucumber pickles and tuna with crunchy dough balls. Then the first of two game dishes followed, the signature dish, a bun with deer and cabbage. Sea bass on chipotle sauce paired with coco beans topped with panko was next. The main course featured game again, a boar ossobucco. It was accompanied with noodles and Mama Shu’s Wagyu Rice, flamed at the table. Two desserts ended the meal, pineapple with coconut cream and roasted nuts as well as mochis with nutella cream.

While I was fond of everything – especially Mama Shu’s Wagyu Rice was great – , the dinner was a bit meat-heavy for my taste. And the mochis were too chewy for my liking. Next time I would probably go for à la carte instead.

To complete the picture, the spot is quite large – there are about 75 seats. The dining room is long and narrow, modernly decorated and comes with cute touches.

There are tiny bamboo lanterns on the ceiling and a big heart – the restaurant’s logo – is emblazoned on the entrance door. The wine selection is good, made by Stefano Petta, Director of Wine of The Living Circle hotel group. One eats here with a pincer (instead of chopsticks), and cloth napkins are provided 🙂

6. Restaurant Chifa Izakaya (district 5)

Now to the last of three casual fine-dining spots where chef Dan Shu has his hands in it, Chifa Izakaya. This time he teamed up with Paulo Timoteo, who has Peruvian roots and experience in European fine dining. Before coming to Switzerland, he cooked at the famous three-star Michelin DiverXo in Madrid. Together with his wife Lorena Olmo he has been running Pueente – see my post – at this very place, and this from summer 2020. A bit more than five years later (November 2025), it was replaced by Chifa Izakaya. Here Paulo and Dan playfully reinterpret culinary styles commonly found in Peru. It is about the Nikkei – fusion of Japanese technique with Peruvian flavor – and Chinese cuisine. And this happens in the form of an Izakaya, a relaxed Japanese tavern.

There is no tasting menu, you get her small plates meant to be shared (they recommend 5 to 6 for two persons, without dessert).

I think this is about right, my husband and I had five plus two desserts. Alternatively, six plus one dessert would be great too. There are five categories to choose from: Sea (23-29 SFR), Sides (6.50-14 SFR), Garden (18-24 SFR), Land (18-39.50) and Dulce (16 SFR). My favorite was The Chifa, Seafood fried Rice with Potato Espuma and Onsen Egg,

which has to be stirred before eating. Yet, all the rest was very good too, be it the Miso Eggplant or the Duck Tacos. And the desserts were fabulous, at which sweetness met spice!

As to the interiors, not much changed since our last visit in spring 2022.

There is still the open kitchen where the chef handles the grill. However, the bar where they mix their fabulous Pisco Sour has gone. Yet this drink is still available and still heavenly! What my husband and I disliked was the limited selection of wines. Only the less expensive ones were available by the glass. Like at Baobae, you eat here with a pincer. Unfortunately, they did not follow the sister restaurant’s example of offering cloth napkins!

Date of visits: from May 2024 to February 2026

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I just wanted to let you know that I have updated my Switzerland directories for traveling and dining in style for 2026! There are the four of them. The first two are about where to go in my lovely home country. You find not only a grand tour of Switzerland but also an overview of premium destinations for the discerning traveler. Furthermore, I inform on where to stay and where to dine in style while traveling along the grand tour through this Alpine nation.

Here are the details:

1. Guide to visiting Switzerland
2. Premium destinations in Switzerland
3. Guide to luxury hotels in Switzerland, part one – core and west
4. Guide to luxury hotels in Switzerland, part two – Alps and east
5. Directory to fine dining in Switzerland, part one – core and west
6. Directory to fine dining in Switzerland, part two – Alps and east

I would like to highlight in particular my advice to foodies spots in Switzerland (5. and 6.).

It is based on dining directories just as the Michelin Guide and the Gault Millau Guide. And whenever they publish a new edition I amend my articles accordingly. But of course my personal opinions also play a role when creating them.

One more remark to end this short blogpost about my freshly updated Switzerland dine and travel in style guides. It is about how to use them. In case you do not want to read them from A to Z – which I would perfectly understand as they are quite long – , then proceed as follows. If you are only interested in a specific place, go to the contents section and click at “show”. Go to the spot of your choice and only read the correspondent paragraph!

Happy traveling and dining to all of you in 2026! And maybe let me know what you think about my directories.

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While staying at Hotel La Barchessa di Villa Pisani near Vicenza in the Veneto region, my husband and I tried out some of best Michelin fine-dining restaurants in the area. This includes the one at our lodging, Osteria del Guà, and three more in its vicinity. The range went from an upscale pizzeria to a seafood place and a gastronomic temple (two stars Michelin). While they were quite different from each other, all showed a good performance. And they also were convincing in terms of pricing. You well notice that you are in a region (between Verona and Padua) that is not heavily touristed. Thus you do not have to break the bank in order to dine in style in Venice’s hinterland.

Before coming to more details on four of the best Michelin (starred) fine-dining spots around Vicenza in the Veneto, some lines about the northern Italy journey my husband and I undertook.

10-day road trip in the Piedmont, Veneto & Swiss southeast in style

Before traveling to the main focus of our 2025 northern Italy voyage, the Veneto around Vincenza, we stayed a few days in Stresa. We already had been to this town on Lake Maggiore in Piedmont’s north the previous year and became fond of it. So, we decided to return. When heading home after visiting these two Italian regions, we made a stopover in Switzerland’s southeast. Precisely, we spent two days in the Engadine, an alpine valley.

4 of the best Michelin (starred) fine-dining restaurants in the Vicenza countryside in Italy’s Veneto

I start with our hotel restaurant and continue with the flagship dining spot here, a two-star Michelin establishment. Then it is about a seafood place before I end with an upscale pizzeria.

1. Restaurant Osteria del Guà in Bagnolo di Lonigo

(Michelin listed)

About

Here at this restaurant, located at Hotel La Barchessa di Villa Pisani (see my post about staying here),

they attach great value to regionality. What you eat here shall bring you close to Venice and its trade routes. Its cuisine is supposed to be a tribute to the noble Pisani family who asked Andrea Palladio to create the place where the diners are at Osteria del Guà. And this is the magnificient Palladian Villa Pisani, today a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Precisely, the eatery is housed in the “Barchessa”, a former rural service building.

They recommend here to start your meal with antipasti in the Pisani tradition. Two different selections of Cicchetti are proposed. These are small, shareable dishes, similar to Spanish tapas, a staple of Venetian culture.

Afterwards you can make your choice either from an à la carte menu (five different sections) or opt for the tasting menu, a Journey to Veneto (5 courses for 85€).

How was it at Osteria del Guà?

You dine at Osteria del Guà either in the elegant dining room with an open fireplace or in a pleasant outdoor area under the arcades.

My husband and I were here during a heatwave, and we chose to be outdoors on two occasions. And this in the hope of the wind to bring some cooling. Of course, we tried out the Cicchetti (see above, in 6 tastings in 2 acts). And we found them mostly good. Some of this traditional fare seem a bit odd for nowadays food habits, for instance beef tongue meatball. Then we had the fish of the day and a dessert each on both days.

While we liked what we got, the food was not particularly memorable.

Oddly enough, we got much bigger portions on our second visit. And this was so despite us having exactly the same dish. A similar thing happened with the dessert (Pear & Peanut Cheesecake) which looked completely different the second time we had it. As to service, they tried hard, but it was not flawless (one server seemed quite inexperienced). Anyway, we enjoyed our time at Osteria del Guà and would come back.

2. Restaurant La Peca in Lonigo, one of the best fine-dining spots around Vicenza in the Veneto

(Michelin two stars)

About

La Peca has been a long-standing culinary institution in Lonigo, half an hour by car south of the city on Vicenza. And fortunately, it is located only a stone’s throw away from the hotel my husband and I were staying (La Barchessa di Villa Pisani, 8 minutes by car). Back in 1987, two brothers opened it. While the chef is Nicola Portinari, Pierluigi Portinari is pastry chef, sommelier and responsible for the administration. They got their first Michelin star in 1996, the second in 2008.

The setting of La Peca – which means imprint – is very nice.

The restaurant has been updated in several renovations and has a modern look. In the most recent overhaul, the terrace was transformed into a new, chic dining room

where its large picture windows allow to view attractive rolling hills.

Food wise, a varied menu is available. The tasting menus are the following ones: Vegetable at 180€, Tracce (Trace) at 195€, Imprint (Footprint) at 235€ and Day by Day (4 Omakase courses) at 130€. In addition, there is a an extensive à la carte on offer. Here a minimum of two courses (without dessert) is required (otherwise a 30€ cover item will be added). I found the pricing reasonable enough for a two-star Michelin establishment.

How was it at La Peca?

Unfortunately, we had a bad start at La Peca. When my husband and I arrived on time for our dinner reservation, we stood before closed doors, and there was no indication how to proceed. So, we waited for some minutes in the scorching heat – we were here when there was a heatwave. This gave us the occasion to scan the surroundings, which were off a bit (leaves were not removed in the entrance area, and a full ashtray stood on a garden wall). When we finally rang the doorbell, two young female staff appeared who were not terribly welcoming.

Once settled at a nice table with a view, the mood lifted rapidly, ours and the service team’s. The young Sommeliere recommended an adequately priced, appealing white wine to us that perfectly complemented our tasting menu (Tracce: 10 courses). Also one of the Portinari brothers – Pierluigi, pastry chef and head sommelier – showed up at one point of time. As to the food, we were thrilled by the high quality we found.

In particular the pasta dishes – Fake Nori Seaweed Ravioli with Seafood in Cassopipa (Venetian stew), and the Mallard (wild duck) Ravioli in Spiced Consommé –

were out of this world! You get here bold, distinct flavors that leave a lasting impression. I only was astonished to notice that there were only six guests in the main dining-room on a Friday evening in early July.

3. Restaurant Locanda dell’Arcimboldo in Coriano Veronese

(Michelin listed)

About Locanda dell’Arcimboldo

On my search for suitable fine-dining spots in our hotel’s surroundings (Villa Barchessa di Villa Pisani, 20 minutes by car) in the Veneto region, I came across the Arcimboldo Restaurant. When reviewing the information available online – which were scarce – , I thought it probably was the most Italian place of all the the ones I was looking at. And that proved to be true! They are specialised in seafood here, with a considerable selection of oysters. You eat à la carte at Locanda dell’Arcimboldo, divided into the typical four sections of starters (13 to 30€), first courses (pasta/risotto, 13 to 25€), second courses/mains (22 to 40€) and desserts (3 to 7€). And there are specialities too.

You are here in Veneto’s middle of nowhere, at least for foreign travelers’ standards. The next known city is Verona, 42 minutes by car. When entering the dining spot’s generous premises, a country house

with a large garden awaits you. In the latter, there is a recently redone, inviting outdoor area. It even features adjustable roof and walls as well as vents, which was a huge relief in the high temperatures we encountered on our visit.

How was it?

We were welcomed by the friendly host who ushered us to our table where we had a good overview of what was happening at Arcimboldo. Not long after sitting down, he presented us live lobster, for which we immediately opted.

And we did this in the form of lobster spaghetti for two (from the specialities menu). This was followed by fish (tuna and monkfish), followed by a hazelnut eclair and a millefeuille. Everything we had was immaculately prepared and tasty.

And we had fine bubbles from the top-notch champagne menu.

We noticed that we probably were the sole foreigners here. In case you want to experience a typical Italian eatery, then you are right at this remotely situated spot. Do not expect chichi but well made honest cuisine focusing on fish and Co. And this with lots of “italianità” . I also took a look of the restaurant interiors, which were large and a bit dated for my taste.

4. Restaurant I Tiglie Pizzeria in San Bonifacio

(Michelin listed)

About

This is not your usual pizzeria but a unique one! You can see that just from the fact that I Tiglie Pizzeria is listed in the Michelin Guide. Chef Simone Padoan began in his brother’s restaurant before starting his own business. He did this in San Bonifacio in 1994, near the freeway between Vicenza and Verona. Over time, his place evolved from a traditional pizzeria with some original dishes on the menu to a sophisticated one. He did lots of experimenting with dough and toppings until the “Tasting Pizza” was born. To represent his new vision of pizza, the chef also renovated the dining spot from the ground up. From 2012 on, I Tiglie Pizzeria is a place where the kitchen is the eatery’s hub, visible to the public.

You get here pizza of course, but I bet you have never experienced something comparable. There is not one sole dough, but there are variations of it: wholemeal, semi-wholemeal ecetera, sometimes flavoured with other flours and/or seeds. The base may be soft or crispy, thin or airier, depending on the filling the chef chooses to pair. For the perfect pizza, he uses a dough management to ensure its proper maturation.

The menu has different sections: The Margherita (19 to 35€, Classical only with Tomato (12 to 25€), From the Sea (25 to 46€), From the Ground/Vegetable (21.50 to 38€), Lika a Sandwich (25 to 42€) and Meats (21.50 to 45€). And you can have the pizzas in two sizes, the regular one or a smaller one (“Cicchetto” version, explication see above under Osteria del Guà). In such a way two persons can taste two to three different pizzas. And a choice of fantastic desserts (5€ – one scoop of ice-cream – to 19€) provides the perfect end to your meal.

How was it?

Dining at a Michelin listed pizzeria was a first for us. As soon as you step into the room, you are dazzled. Are we right here, my husband and I asked ourselves. This because we caught sight of a professional open kitchen first, the kind you find in high-end restaurants.

And there is also a a sales area where you can buy cookies, bread and snacks. After the initial astonishment, we were ushered in the dining room, which is contemporary yet a bit cold.

Right at the beginning – before ordering – we got a small salad with bread, which apparently was the “Coperto” (cover). My husband and I shared three small pizzas – we only ordered the third one when we were half through the first second two. And while we managed to finish all of them, it was a bit too much for the two of us. But they were so terribly good! The pizzas were totally different from each other, be it from the dough or the filling (some of the latter were baked, others not). As to which ones we had, I think we had chosen wisely: Red Shrimp Sashimi, Parmigiana and Burrata Cheese & Culatello of Zibello.

As I had read good things about the desserts, we did not leave the place without one. Unfortunately, we had to make do with one only, because we were already quite full. We opted for the “Idea di Rocher” Call it Ambrogio, which was a delightful combination of creamy and chopped hazelnut, cookie wafer and chocolate mousse. In addition, we bought various kinds of cookies to go when settling the check. One sentence to the costs of pleasure which are not insignificant, but the gourmet pizzas are worth every cent!

Looking back to my Piedmont, Veneto and southeastern Switzerland content

I mentioned it above, my husband and not only went to the Veneto (main focus, around Vicenza) but also had two stopovers en route. On the way there, we stayed in Stresa/Piedmont. On the way back we lodged in the Engadine in the Swiss Alps. A former post went into the itinerary of this trip in style. And earlier on my blog, you also found how it was staying in one of the best luxury hotels in the Veneto countryside. It is about Hotel La Barchessa di Villa Pisani in Venice’s hinterland. And in this very post, you found about where to go for the best fine-dining restaurants near Vicenza in Italy’s Veneto.

Date of stay: July 2025

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Earlier this year I published an overview on Madeira’s best (Michelin) fine dining. After returning from another stay on this island in the Atlantic Ocean I want to report on the most recent developments in its upscale culinary scene. Since 2021, my husband and I have headed to Madeira each year. We did this in order not only to enjoy its beautiful landscapes but also its vibrant fine dining restaurants. In recent years, this island saw quite a number of fine-dining openings, also in the top-tier sector.  On our last visit, we returned to some familiar places and also checked out new ones. Find in the following what exactly is happening in Madeira’s fine-dining restaurant scene.

While I do not want to repeat the findings of my mentioned overview on Madeira’s best (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants, I just note all the places in the more important categories briefly and comment on what is new.

1. Top-tier fine dining in Madeira

This group includes all the Michelin starred dining spots in Madeira, i.e. three in total.

1.1. 2 stars Michelin

Here it is about Il Gallo d’Oro at Hotel the Cliff Bay, a constant in Madeira’s fine-dining restaurant scene for almost two decades. I visited this restaurant in 2021 and 2022 and have not returned since then. While the chef is genuinely good at what he does, I was not completely impressed by the experience at Il Gallo d’Oro. It did not feel special enough, neither food nor ambiance wise.

And they increased their prices considerably over the years. Having said that, since some time, the bigger menu has been available for 295€ and the smaller for 245€. It makes the impression that they are hesitant to exceed the 300€ mark.

1.2. 1 star Michelin

There are two one-star Michelin establishments on the island of Madeira, William and Desarma.

1.2.1. William at Hotel Reid’s Palace

In the past, I had two dinners here. One was under the former chef and one under the new (and current) one.

After trying out what the new chef had on offer for us in 2023 – which was convincing – , my husband went back on our recent Madeira stay. We again liked what we got – the desserts were heavenly – , but we have some reservations. First, two courses of the bigger menu were exactly the same as on our last visit in 2023. Second, they charged us 48€ for a rosé Champagne (Ruinart), which we found completely overpriced for Madeira. And third, when settling the check, they started with a tip request of 15% (normally they expect 5 to 10%). By the way, last time we had the bigger menu (for 160€), which is now 190€. This time we opted for the smaller (160€, one course less).

1.2.2. Desarma at Hotel The Views Baía

What a fabulous meal we had here on our last stay! At the time, we splurged for the Chef’s Counter with 12 Moments at 275€.

Thus, we decided to pass on it this time. There are also smaller menus available: 9 Moments for 225€ and 6 for 195€.

Now I want to introduce a new category, one that did not exist in my overview on Madeira’s best (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants. And this is the following one destined for establishments that are not (yet) top-tier but close.

2. Near-top-tier fine dining in Madeira

Here I outline two Michelin listed dining spots that offer an outstanding performance, superior to other Michelin restaurants we visited. It is about Gazebo and Audax that form their own category near the top of Madeira’s fine-dining restaurant scene.

2.1. Gazebo (Michelin listed)

My husband and I had dinner here when we visited Madeira a year ago. We had such a good time in this eatery in a personal home that we wanted to return. Not only did we dine well and appreciate the relaxed ambiance at Gazebo, but we also found that we got much value for money here. This is still so although they have increased prices since their Michelin listing. The bigger menu now costs 120€ (including water service) instead of 90€ (plus 5€ water service).

The smaller is available for 80€ (including water service), before it amounted to 60€ (plus 5€ water service).

As repeat guests, we were warmly welcomed and got a complimentary glass of a fine Portuguese sparkling wine. And we noticed that they had more staff, one more in the kitchen

and one in the service. As to the food, the experience was comparable to the last one, enjoyable yet with no real surprises. That said that does not necessarily have to be a bad sign.

2.2. Audax (Michelin listed)

This modern eatery in Madeira’s “Hotel Zone” was our discovery of the moment in Madeira. With its opening in 2023, it is a relatively new addition to the island’s fine-dining restaurant scene. I was only made aware of it because it had been included in the Michelin Guide recently. We were so wowed by the offered, be it the stylish ambiance, the warm welcome or – the most important thing – the fantastic food.

Audax is Latin and means bold. With this they mean their approach to deal with Madeira’s culinary heritage. At this restaurant experiences are created that honor the island’s traditions, and this with authenticity and audacity. They call it progressive Madeiran cuisine. The names behind Audax are Diogo Freitas as manager and César Vieira as chef, both very young. The latter works with his team in an open kitchen,

the former overseas the front room.

You get here a lunch menu (3 Moments at 35€, 4 Moments at 55€) and a dinner menu (5 Moments at 85€ and 7 Moments at 105€). While the first three menus are fixed, the fourth is a surprise menu. My husband and I opted for the latter,

advertised as “sensory journey, guided by the island’s seasonality where sea, land and time set the pace”. And it kept its promises! The seven courses were a culinary firework from A to Z. Everything we got was beautiful to look at, full of flavor and surprising. This includes the chef’s signature dish, Cured Red Snapper with Chestnut and Passion Fruit, the Poncha Prawn, an ode to one of the island’s cultural symbols, or the dessert, a Pumpkin Sphere filled with Madeira Curd Foam. Service was prompt and pleasant. Serving sizes were adequate, not even a bread course as filler was offered (and necessary).

3. Modern fine dining in Madeira

In this category fall contemporary Michelin listed establishments other than the ones mentioned before. In addition, you find here also some more eateries that either have not made it yet in the gastro guide or do not aspire so high. To summarize it, is about dining spots of two “restaurant groups” and a newcomer.

3.1. Restaurants by PortoBay Hotels

The PortoBay Hotels have enlarged their gastronomic offer in recent years. And they did do this not unnoticed by Michelin. Their first modern outlet was Avista. Avista Asia followed as did Horta, where vegetable-based dishes play an important role. And all three eateries are included in this gastro guide.

As my husband and I stayed at Hotel Les Suites at the Cliff Bay,

the home base of the Avista restaurants, we have visited all the three dining spot many times. And we also dined at all of them on our last Madeira trip. Let me comment what I noticed most when doing so. Of course, it is always a snapshot of a moment, yet one that may be significant.

3.1.1. Avista (Michelin listed)

This is the place where we have dined most of all restaurants in Madeira. And I must admit – to my regret – with waning enthusiasm. I really like the dining spot, its uncomplicated concept and its friendly staff. But we encountered some issues. While we made reservations weeks or even months before, we were allocated less favorable tables in two consecutive years. They tend to assign tables here on a first come first served rule. And when you arrive here at 7.30pm, the place is always almost full, and you get what is left. And we are not eager to ask the maître d’ beforehand to give us a good table only because we are hotel guests and regulars.

Food wise, it offers a solid performance, although it is not terribly surprising. This is especially true for the mains. Here you have – depending from your choice – to select a side and a sauce, which I always find difficult. Quite often you do not have the ideal pairing and also too big portions. A second point is their tasting menu (6 courses at 115€) which you can only have as “the whole shebang” (not in 4 or 5 courses only). And last, on our recent visit we were served tuna fish that was too well done.

3.1.2. Avista Asia (Michelin listed)

Avista Asia was a positive surprise to us this time. They had to redecorate the premises because of a fire, and I think they did well!

As to the food, we decided this time neither to opt for a tasting menu, which are varied, nor to go for sushi. Regarding the latter, they are good but too Westernized for my taste. Thus, we ordered à la carte, seafood for starters and mains, and a dessert each. And we have never dined so well at Avista Asia! I was much in favor of my Otoro Kinuta Maki and Amberjack with a Sake-Horseradish Sauce (Catch of the Day). Also the dessert I had (Sesame and Passion Fruit Essence with White Chocolate, Passion Fruit and Black Sesame)

was persuasive.

3.1.3 Horta (Michelin listed)

On our three visits here so far, we have always had fine meals, all clear on this end.

Yet so far I have not been overly impressed by their service. It usually already starts when entering the premises.

Horta does not have a reception desk of its own, they share it with the neighbouring restaurant. So, this might lead to confusion before you even get to your table. While they usually sort it out quite quickly, it does not make a good first impression, for which you never get a second chance. Anyway, once the first issue was solved, the staff came across as a bit too nonchalant in the past. This was different on our recent dinner. On this occasion, service was professional, courteous and helpful.

3.2. Restaurants by Chef Júlio Pereira

Chef Júlio Pereira, who has now 5 restaurants – if I counted correctly – , started with Kampo in 2018.

We have not visited it yet as it mainly focuses on meat, but we have dined twice at his second eatery, Akua (Michelin listed). And we enjoyed the great seafood dishes here both times. I think this lively spot has become a fixture in Madeira’s casual fine-dining restaurant scene.

Plus, on our last Madeira stay, we tried out Yuki, a Japanese tavern,

which we liked as well. This time, we gave Theo’s a shot, a traditional Portuguese restaurant from 1933. Since 2024 it has been under the lead of Júlio Pereira and still offers the same kind of food although with a modern twist.

Some more remarks about our dinner at Theo’s. I was fond of the relaxed contemporary setting here. There is also a lovely al fresco balcony where we were seated. The staff is warm and welcoming,

and the food is good. Sorry to say, Portuguese cuisine is not the most sophisticated in the world, but it has its own unique charm. And the chef knows how to make the most out of it. I was impressed by the Octopus Salad with Arjamolho Sauce (some kind of gazpacho sauce) and the Prawn Açorda. This is a one-pot dish dish based on the traditional Portuguese bread soup.

I found Julio Pereira’s contemporary take on Portuguese food appealing, but of course I am not really familiar with typical Portuguese food.

Only briefly, chef Júlio Pereira seems to be some sort of a busy bee, he has just opened another eatery in March 2025. Again it is an existing restaurant, Jacket in Madeira’s Old Zone. He renamed it in Jaket and promotes it as a nod to the traditional Madeira tavern, yet with a modern take on some old classics.

3.3. Joy

Joy in Funchal’s Hotel Zone is a newcomer in the Madeira fine-dining restaurant scene. It opened end of 2024 next to Hotel Savoy Palace in a really nice setting. You are here in some kind of glass cube – at least from the form and the frameless windows. Joy boasts a stylish modern design that is among the more beautiful I know in Madeira.

There is an open cuisine yet a bit hidden from from prying eyes. And you also have sea views from this dining spot. Staff is courteous and is committed to making you feel at ease.

As to cuisine, you get here a mix of Portuguese dishes and international fare with a twist. Starters are from 11 to 19.50€ (foie gras). Mains cost between 22 and 29€, there is also a Lobster & Seafood Cataplana, a Portuguese fish stew, available for 85€ (two persons). Desserts are quite varied and are priced between 3.50€ (one scoop of ice-cream) and 10.50€. Plus, you can order a Cheese Board for 16.50€. In addition, my husband praised the well-sorted wine list. Favorites among our food choices were the Seared Wild Scallops, the Seabass (Catch of the Day) with Beurre Blanc and Clams as well as the fabulous Mille-Feuille with Vanilla, Caramel and Chocolate Cream we had to finish the meal.

If you should wonder about the people behind Joy, the owner is Vitor Martins. He is a Madeira native who long lived in the UK where he not only studied but also worked in gastronomy. And he had his own dining spot there too. Back in Madeira, he worked as a consultant for a hotel before opening his own business, Joy. The chef here is Rogério Barbosa from mainland Portugal who brings experience with Michelin listed restaurants, for instance The Yeatman in Porto.

4. Other categories: traditional fine dining with a twist & simple but good restaurants

For two categories – traditional fine dining with a twist and simple but good restaurants – I have nothing to add to my mentioned overview  on best (Michelin) fine dining in Madeira. If you are interested in information about recommended places to go in this area, please refer to my correspondent post.

Date of last visit: November 2025

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While staying at Hotel Vestige Son Vell near Ciutadella in western Menorca, my husband and I checked out the local (Michelin/Repsol) gourmet dining scene. One cannot claim that this Balearic island is a heaven for a fine-dining afficionado, but it has some really good restaurants. We limited ourselves to Menorca’s west (less than half-an-hour drive from our hotel). Theoretically, it is possible to head to Menorca’s eastern part (around Mahón) from here for a dinner too. To do this, you need to drive for roughly an hour. Back to where we went, find in the following details to four of the best fine-dining restaurants in western Menorca. It is about two spots around Ciutadella and two more in the heart of this beautiful town.

1. Restaurant Vermell at Hotel Vestige Son Vell (south of Ciutadella)

(Guía Repsol Recommended)

About

Here at this restaurant,

located at Hotel Vestige Son Vell (see my post about staying here),

Joan Bagur has been responsible as executive chef since early 2023. He is not unknown in Menorca. After some jobs outside this Balearic Island, Joan Bagur returned home to start as chef at Hotel Morvedra Nou in 2012. From 2015 on, he cooked at his own place, Restaurant Rels (temporarily closed) in Ciutadella. And there he was able to get a listing in the Michelin guide. He is considered as pioneer of the new Menorca cuisine, fusing traditional recipes with modern influences.

The dining-spot is called Vermell, which means “Red”. This name is a nod to the island’s culinary heritage and the rich colors that are associated with it. You get at this restaurant, which you reach in a 16-minute drive from Ciutadella heading south, a cuisine that is deeply rooted in the territory. Certain dishes however are slightly refined to meet guests’ palates from abroad too. But the chef never abandons their essence.

How was it?

My husband and I had three dinners here as we stayed at the hotel. All of them were enjoyable. On our first evening, we had the tasting menu (80€).

All the six courses were excellent, and they came elaborately presented. My favorites were the Carabinero Prawn Cocktail and the Suckling Pig. When having dinner at Vermell the second time, we went for à la carte and indulged in the Carabinero Rice.

And on our third dinner, we opted again for the (same) tasting menu. This because it was so good the first time we had it. At our request, they exchanged the suckling pig with the lamb from the à la carte menu.

Service was always amiable and professional. The setting is nice, the dining room

and the generous outdoor area

area kept in a chic rustic style.

What I did not really like, were the table runners. They looked like they had been treated with a plastic coating. And I found the pricing at Vermell a bit steep. While I considered the tasting menu as reasonably priced, the à la carte dishes were quite expensive (starters: 24 to 34€, mains 28 to 43€, desserts 14€). Said that Restaurant Vermell is without any doubt among the best fine-dining restaurants in Menorca.

2. Restaurant Smoix at Hotel Sant Ignasi (north of Ciutadella)

(1 Sol Guía Repsol)

About

The chef at Restaurant Smoix is Miquel Sànchez, yet another trailblazer of the new Menorcan cuisine. The Menorcan from Catalunia started his dining-spot back in 2011. In 2016, he transferred Smoix to Ciutadella. And yet another move happened in 2024, when it became a hotel restaurant in this town’s rural outskirts.

Namely, it came under the wing of Hotel Sant Ignasi, which is a 12-minute drive away from Ciutadella. As to Smoix’s rewards, it used to be a Michelin Bib Gourmand place for some years. But it is not listed in the 2025 guide anymore.

The chef is committed to local produce and offers an honest yet refined cuisine. As his wife Vianey is Mexican, he also is said to incorporate Mexican along with Menorcan and Catalan influences in his cooking. On offer here is either an à la carte menu or a tasting menu (six courses at 82.50€). As to the former, there is a list of dishes where there is no distinction between starters and mains. Twelve dishes are available. Pricewise, it starts with the Croquette of the Day for 3.25€ and ends with Fish Loin for 29.50€. I thought that this was very good value.

How was it at Smoix?

When entering the premises, you follow the sign to the restaurant, which is in a separate building. You come to a bar first before there is a dining room (with white table cloths),

followed by some kind of winter garden with bare wooden tables.

I found the latter very atmospheric as it was in the midst of trees. In my opinion, everything at Smoix is a bit less sophisticated than it is at Vermell. This concerns the setting and the service – it was reserved and a bit indifferent with host Vianey not present – but also the cuisine.

As to the food, my husband and I opted for the tasting menu

as we wanted to see what the chef had in store for us. While all the offerings were of good quality and carefully prepared, they lacked maybe sometimes a bit of finesse. The highlight for me was the fish course (Seabass)

and the dessert trio, consisting of Lemon Pie, Chocolate Cake and Strawberry Sorbet. And I did not notice any Mexican impact on the chef’s cuisine. This might be for a reason, which you will learn about in the next section.

3. Restaurant Katú by Smoix in Ciutadella, one the best fine-dining restaurants Menorca

(Guía Repsol Recommended)

About

When Miquel Sànchez moved his Restaurant Smoix from Ciutadella in its surrounding in 2024, he did not leave the town without a mark. While settling down with his original place in the countryside, he opened a new dining-spot in Ciutadella. And this was Katú by Smoix, featuring Mediterranean and Mexican cuisine. It is a cool, hip eatery, located on a tree-lined avenue just outside Ciutadella’s historic center.

Its premises are divided into three parts, the dining room, the bar area

and a small outdoor patio.

The menu at Katú by Smoix features a list of 15 items without differentiation in starters and mains. The price range of the dishes – which can be shared – is between 2.90€ for the Croquette of the day per piece and 36€ for a 450 gr/16 oz Beef Shortrib. You get here Mexican food just as taco, tostada or chilaquiles but also more European ones like salad our soup. And the presence of a bar reveals it, there are drinks available, which are inventive and mezcal- or tequila-based.

How was it?

My husband and I had a reservation here just at opening time. When we arrived onsite and found the door still closed five minutes after the scheduled time, we wondered. But then we heard steps and a dark-haired man – the host as we assumed – opened it and was very apologetic about the mistake. He ushered us to our table, handed out the menu and explained the concept to us. And he did all this in a smooth yet proficient manner. We felt very welcome, and this was so the whole time we spent in here. When doing the research for this post, I concluded that this must have been Iván Fernando Ángeles, the brother of the chef’s wife (Vianey). He truly is the most perfect host!

To start the meal we ordered a Margarita Salvaje, which was excellent. The same is true for the rest we had, all Mexican dishes. We ordered five of them, Red Tuna Tostada, Aguachile, Celery Tacos, Chilaquiles and Pork Confit Tacos. And we had bread too. After the savory part, Iván informed us about the sweet options. We decided on Tres Leches and Lemon Pie, which were both persuasive.

We thoroughly loved our experience at Katú by Smoix, be it in terms of food (delicious), service (immaculate) and vibe (relaxed and super cool).

4. Restaurant Es Tast de Na Sílvia in Ciutadella

(Guía Repsol Recommended)

About

You find the cozy restaurant of Sílvia Anglada (chef) and Toni Tarragó (host) in the heart of the historic center of Ciutadella.

After years of working in a place outside of town, the couple decided to move the dining spot there in 2018. It is the only Slow Food Km0 dining-spot on the island. With this label, it is all about sourcing local and seasonal produce, favouring organic one, and using good practises in order to achieve its maximum flavor. A commitment to sustainability and saving energy is also part of it. In addition, the chef uses traditional Menorcan recipes that she interprets in her own way.

The menu’s headline is “This Week we Have Cooked …”. On our dinner, the starters comprised of vegetables only, often in combination with cheese (9.50€ to 15€). As to the mains, think of Beef Steak Tartare, Cannelloni with Meat or Suckling Pig 1(7.50€ to 25.50€.) In terms of desserts, they served Warm Chocolate Bomb, Seasonal Fruit Tart Tatin or Crème Brûlée (6€ to 10€).

How was it at Es Tast de Na Sílvia?

The place – a former chapel – is rather small and comes with an open cuisine where the chef was busy among her tools.

Later on, just before we left, she was joined by a helper. The decor at Es Tast de Na Sílvia is retro chic with lots of white. On our arrival, the restaurant was already quite busy. But that was no problem as they are well organized in here. Service was attentive and helpful.

My husband and I started the meal with the Carrots and the Artichokes, followed by a local Rice Dish and the Catch of the Day. For desserts, we had the Crispy Meringue and the Tart Tatin.

Everything we had was well prepared and tasty. There was nothing to complain, maybe the main dishes were a bit on the small side. I would have liked to have two more prawns – mine were tiny – on my rice.

Yet you should not be picky, you get really good value for money here. But bring cash with you, they do not accept credit cards.

Looking back to my Menorca content

This post about some of the best fine-dining restaurants in (western) Menorca was the last of my reporting on this Balearic island.

The one before went into a top luxury hotel – Vestige Son Vell – to stay when visiting Menorca. And I started this mini series with a blogpost about where to go in Madrid for a conveniently located high-end hotel and nearby Michelin (starred) dining spots. This because my husband and I found that Spain’s capital is an ideal stopover destination for Menorca.

Date of stay: May 2025

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When it came to planning a Menorca trip (hotel/restaurants), my husband and I decided to start it with a short stay in Madrid. We have never been there. Quite some years ago, we already thought about visiting Spain’s capital. However, when we noticed that you could not dine at the restaurants of our choice before 9pm, we abandoned the idea again. The good news here, this (prohibitive) start time has changed a bit to the better. As to our Madrid dining spots, we opted for Michelin Guide listed ones. While we were not looking for the best of the best (just as DiverXO), we wanted them to be good. And they should be near our lodging, which we chose for its proximity to major sights in town. Plus, we wished our hotel to be upscale – yet fairly priced. Hence, find in the following all the details to one of the best hotels and some top restaurants in Madrid.

Which luxury hotel to choose in Madrid

As my husband and I wanted to explore Madrid by foot, we had been looking for a centrally located high-end hotel. As some more known establishments in the heart of Spain’s capital came with rather hefty price tags, we widened our search on smaller lodgings. And when I discovered CoolRooms Palacio de Atocha, I found it to be the perfect choice for the two of us.

In this context I must point out that before we had booked another nearby hotel. That was Grand Hotel Inglés.

While I liked its style, I later found out that their restaurant, Lobbyto Snack Bar, did not get good reviews (also for the breakfast). So, we canceled our reservation in favor of CoolRooms Palacio de Atocha. And I felt good about this decision once we were in Madrid and walking by the hotel we had originally booked. This is because it it amidst the hustle and bustle of the city’s party scene, which is not for everyone.

But now to the accommodation we were, CoolRooms Palacio de Atocha.

Hotel CoolRooms Palacio de Atocha Madrid’s back story

The hotel used to be a palace at the time. It was built in 1852 and owned by Nemesio Sancha, a high official to the Overseas Ministry and knight of the Order of Charles III. Before becoming a hotel, it housed a hermitage and a convent. The property’s entrance is guarded by the figure of the god Hermes, and it actually is an old carriageway. Its 7-meter/23 feet-ceilings leads to a courtyard.

Hotel CoolRooms Palacio de Atocha opened in June 2021 after a thorough renovation done by Antana Arquitectura in collaboration with the interior design team of Proyecto Singular. Emphasis was placed on a harmonious blending of past and present.

CoolRooms Palacio de Atocha is part of a small hotel brand launched in 2018. The group compromises three properties, all of them are former palaces. Apart from Madrid, you find them in Seville and in Asturias (all in Spain). In addition, there are two in Portugal (Porto and Lisbon) that will open soon.

Location of CoolRooms Palacio de Atocha Madrid

CoolRooms Palacio de Atocha’s location in the Barrio de las Letras (Literary Quarter) is as convenient as it gets. This district used to be the home of many famous writers back in the Golden Age of Spanish Literature (e.g. Cervantes or Quevedo). Nowadays, it is a party mile with lots of bars and outdoor restaurants.

You are here close to many Madrid sights just as the Plaza Mayor

or the Prado Museum. And you are not in the midst of the activity and commotion of the party scene but on its edge. Precisely, CoolRooms Palacio de Atocha is on Calle Atocha (Atocha Street). It is here only single lane and therefore quieter than elsewhere in town.

Ambiance/Staff at CoolRooms Palacio de Atocha Madrid

Everything at CoolRooms Palacio de Atocha is intended to merge the best of classic and modern. The promise of the impressive high entrance where carriages used to enter is kept. You are here in an extraordinary place with a soul. I fell in love with the magnificent old stairwell, which was preserved in its original state.

It is no longer needed – as there is also a new one – , yet it is here as a tribute to history. Just by the entrance, there is also lovely, tiny courtyard for lingering.

And when traversing the property, you come to a bigger one. Here you discover a secluded pool garden, an oasis amidst Madrid’s flurry.

The staff suits the character of this house. The employees are cool and at the same time unassuming. All our concerns were met with professionalism, which made my husband and me feel valued as guests. And they were attentive too. On our last day, they provided us with a small fruit plate, a thank for our long stay.

Rooms at CoolRooms Palacio de Atocha Madrid

The hotel has a one Michelin key rating, which denotes the crème de la crème of the Michelin Guide lodging selection. And rightly so!  The rooms are among the largest you find in Madrid. They offer 34 accommodations between 34 and 110 sqm. All of them are designed to combine the finest of traditional and contemporary. The signature ones even have their own private terrace with a jacuzzi.

We opted for one of the six Suites, which offer lots of space (58 to 57 sqm).

Despite their size they did not cost the earth (742€ in the shoulder season), as I found. And how beautiful ours was! It was on the third floor facing the pool garden. The suite was kept in neutral colors and featured lots of details, which made it intimate and unique. Not only the open-plan living and bedroom was spacious but the bathroom to, which was gigantic!

I read that the rooms are highly soundproof, and I can confirm this.

Facilities at CoolRooms Palacio de Atocha Madrid

I mentioned it already, there is a small (plunge) pool and a bar (both indoors and outdoors). Furthermore, you find here Restaurant El Patio de Atocha with two areas, inside

and out. We have not dined here so I cannot comment. From what I read they consider themselves to be a fusion between a traditional restaurant and a modern bistro.

However, my husband and I had breakfast here. We had it in the outdoor area in some kind of a glasshouse. While we liked the (served) offerings, we had to bring some patience while doing so. This was especially the case when the place was busy. They have a strict regime here when it comes to the sequence of the breakfast (first the drink order, then the handing out of the menus and finally the food order).

If you should wish massage treatments, they do not have a spa but they provide this service in your guest room. And this should be no problem because the rooms are – as you know by now – vast. Plus, you can make use of a range of experiences just as a private fitness coach, yoga sessions or a photoshoot with a “Madrid Cool Photographer” (all for a fee).

In summary about one of the best hotels in Madrid

If you care for an intimate, high-end lodging Madrid experience at the best location possible, you cannot go wrong with Hotel CoolRooms Palacio de Atocha. This recently renovated historic palace is boutique, offering 34 oversized rooms, which I found stunning. And I considered them reasonably priced too. In addition, there is a pretty courtyard pool along a bar/glasshouse-style restaurant. The staff also does a great job, plus the breakfast is great – yet you need some time for it. In short, staying here leaves little else to be desired if you care for a luxury yet not overpriced Madrid accommodation.

After my report on one of the best hotels in Madrid now to some of the finest restaurants in town.

Where to go for great Michelin (starred) restaurants in Madrid’s heart

As I already let you know, we dined at Michelin (starred) restaurants on our Madrid stay. We wanted them to be superior yet not necessarily the crème de la crème of haute gastronomy. And they should be in walking distance from our hotel – CoolRooms Palacio de Atocha. Plus, we did not wish to break the bank for such dinners, and the ratings of the eateries had to be good. Finally, we liked the dining-spots to be more on the modern side. So, I can advise on four upscale restaurants in Madrid that I all can wholeheartedly endorse.

I start with the most upscale eatery and end with the most casual one in my list of some of the best restaurants in Madrid.

1. Restaurant CEBO Madrid

(1 star Michelin,  2 Soles Guía Repsol)

CEBO is located within Hotel Urban and run by two young chefs, Javier Sanz and Juan Sahuquillo. And they have been in charge since 2022. They prepare seemingly simple – yet deeply refined – creations made with delicious local produce. The setting is contemporary chic,

and the service was smooth. The staff recommended the smaller Classics Menu (160€) – there are two of them – , and this is what my husband and I ordered. All the dishes we got (11 of them) were great, many of them were finished at the table.

I especially adored the Smoked Sturgeon with Oscietea Caviar, yet everything was full of flavor. And the service was prompt, we were just in here for two hours.

2. Restaurant Kuoco Madrid

(Michelin listed, 1 Sol Guía Repsol)

When we arrived at Kuoco two minutes before opening time, the reception was a bit frosty. But Spaniards do love to dine late. And the ambiance quickly warmed up in this informal restaurant.

The chef here is a young Venezuelan, Rafa Bergamo,

and he does not know any limits. He effortlessly combines Asian, Latin and Spanish influences. You can order here from an à la carte menu, but I would opt for the menu instead (Atemporal, 89€), which is an intense journey across the globe. I loved every single dish we had (12 plates), yet my personal winner was the tuna that you could add to the menu on our evening.

After the initial twenty minutes where we just waited for everything to unfold, the dinner proceeded just perfectly. And if you are into wine pairings, the one here is terrific (48€).

3. Restaurant Trèsde Madrid 

(Michelin listed, Guía Repsol Recommended)

Trèsde, a laid-back dining spot in a French bistro-style,

is the project of three lifelong friends. They have revived the concept of a starter-main-dessert combo (46€) where you can make your choice out of three dishes in each section. Plus, you can add a snack (Oyster or Anchovy, 5€ each) to start your meal. You also have the option to insert a cheese selection. Since the eatery’s opening in 2023, you get here seasonal cuisine where vegetables have always played an important role. My husband and I opted for the tuna dish and an asparagus variation, followed by the Fish of the Day, turbot with broccoli. To close the meal, we had Pavlova and the Tartlet of the Day (chocolate).

The dinner was delightful, everything we had was to our liking. Service was very friendly and attentive.

4. Restaurant Ticuí Madrid

(Michelin listed, Guía Repsol Recommended)

Ticuí is the place for upscale Mexican cuisine, and this in a nicely decorated, contemporary setting. You can either reserve a table in some kind of a sun room (Comedor, not heated) or in the room where you find the open cuisine (Barra Omakase). We were seated in the latter at one of the regular tables; another option here is the long bar table.

On our late lunch we could choose from an à la carte menu with following sections: Raw Bar (16-24€), Clay Griddle (11-27€) or Kitchen (18-55€, most dishes are available as half or full portion). Alternatively, you could go for the Ticuí Experience (six courses for 75€, with wine pairing 110€).

While we were a bit unsure how much to order, we decided to make a selection – the dishes are meant to share. Afterwards, we asked the (friendly) staff whether the quantity is adequate, which was affirmed. We had the Tuna Tostado from the Raw Bar and the Rosarito Shrimp from the Clay Griddle to start. As mains we ordered half a portion each of the Grilled Fish (Sea Bass) and the Pibil-Style Suckling Pig, both from the Kitchen.

Although we had enough, it was rather a light lunch. If you should be very hungry, go at least for one full portion with the mains. Yet everything we had was really tasty! I especially liked the freshly made tortillas from the griddle.

To end the meal, a server rattled off a few desserts in Spanish only. We went for a creation made of corncake, tres leches and caramel ice cream, which was delicious.

Looking forward to my Menorca content

I have mentioned it, the Madrid city trip was the prelude to a (seven-day) Menorca stay.

While you might know Mallorca (see my content) or Ibiza, this Balearic Island is not as known as its “two other beautiful sisters”. Together with a fourth island (Formentera) they form an archipelago in the western Mediterranean Sea belonging to Spain. Find out in my two posts to come where to go in Menorca to stay and dine in style.

Date of stay: May 2025

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My aim here is to go into the best fine-dining restaurants you can find in Tenerife, and this in its south and northwest. Previously, I already wrote about two luxury hotels in this very places and about the overtourism on this largest Canary Island. Again, as in my Tenerife lodging post, I do not want to give too many details. This because I am a bit reluctant to advertise a destination that suffers from overtourism already. Yet, I have always a hard time not sharing information I think that might benefit the public.

I start with the best fine-dining restaurants in Tenerife’s northwest and then continue with the ones in its south. As in my last post about luxury hotels on this island, I limit myself on some key points on the respective place, followed by the good and possibly the not so good.

2 of the best fine-dining spots around Buenavista del Norte

In Buenavista del Norte we stayed at Hotel Hacienda del Conde Meliá Collection Golf & Spa.

I had checked out its signature dining-spot beforehand and found that it was worth dining at. Furthermore, we headed out to nearby Garachico

to try out a Michelin listed casual fine-dining place.

1. Restaurant Salazar at Hotel Hacienda del Conde in Buenavista del Norte

Here you get chef Aser Martín’s modern take on food based on local produce and flavors. Two tasting menus are available, a small one (8 courses at 50€)

and a large one (the same 8 courses plus 4 more at 70€). In addition, there is an à la carte menu that consists more or less of the dishes in the tasting menu.

I was positively surprised by the offerings here, be it as to quality or creativity. And you got a true insight into typical specialities of the area, which I always find a a good thing. All the rest was immaculate too, the newly designed interiors,

the arrangement of the food and the expert service. The only suboptimal thing was maybe that as a hotel guest you have no reason to dine here more than once. This because it would be a repetitive affair (not enough choice).

2. Restaurant El Rebojo in Garachico

(Michelin Bib Gourmand)

On offer at El Rebojo is modernized Canarian cuisine. And this in a pretty location in Garachico’s historic town center

The atmosphere in here is laid-back,

the staff was friendly and helpful. The menu is original, in addition to the usual three-course meal, you have a section called “Sea Bites” (10-15€). You can pair them with wines: 4 Bites with 4 Wines (30€) , 2 Bites with 2 Wines (15€). As to wine, it is an important factor here. They have excellent wines by the glass, and you can also buy them onsite. Tasting menus are available too, priced at 65 and 80€.

As to the food, we mainly ordered seafood, among other a fabulous wahoo starter (19€). Everything we had was well made and tasty. Also the dessert we shared, Almond in three Textures with Chocolate and Chilli, was great.

There was nothing at this dining spot I did not like.

6 of the best fine-dining spots in southern Tenerife

While we lodged at the western end of Costa Adeje – at Hotel Royal Hideaway Corales Beach – Adults Only –

we also headed further east in order to dine at the best restaurants southern Tenerife has to offer. Having said that, we mainly dined at our hotel featuring three Michelin star restaurants with four stars in total.

I begin with the places outside our hotel before diving into Hotel Royal Hideaway Corales Beach stupendous gastronomy.

1. Restaurant Qapaq in Los Cristianos

(Michelin listed, Guía Repsol Recommended)

This is the place of Rosalía Díaz Cieza, born and raised in Peru. Of course, you get Peruvian food here, although with the one or other Mediterranean touch. And she has has run this eatery since 2019.

The food my husband and I had at Qapaq was remarkable. You can select from several sections on the menu: 100% Peruvian, Wok-Chifa, Mediterranean Peruvian-inspired and Robata Grill.

In addition, there are two tasting menus (55 and 68€). We had Ceviche and Tiradito from the first section (22/19.50€) and two different fishes from the grill (23/24€). And we were thrilled!

Do not expect a dining spot with a cool vibe. Restaurant Qapaq is a simple eatery.

The service was okay but nothing extraordinary. Yet, this place  is definitiely worth coming here for the excellent Peruvian food!

2. Restaurant Kensei at Hotel Bahía del Duque on Costa Adeje

(Michelin listed, 1 Sol Guía Repsol)

At Kensei they serve contemporary Japanese food. You can make your choice out of several sections: raw section, sushi, main courses and desserts. Alternatively, you may opt for the Tasting Menu Kensei (90€) or the Chef Tasting Menu (160€). As we always find it challenging to put together a balanced meal when sushi is involved, we went for the the smaller tasting menu.

And it was a feast for the eyes and the palate, from A to Z. Chef Victor Planas really knows his job! As to the ambiance, it is a hip, relaxed location, completely kept in dark colors.

Although the service was persuasive in general, there was a minor letdown at the start of our dinner. After we had made our order, they forgot us for half an hour. When we inquired with a server about our food, the restaurant manager appeared and apologized formally. And they were able to catch up without us feeling rushed.

3. El Rincón de Juan Carlos at Hotel Royal Hideaway Corales Beach

(2 stars Michelin, 3 Soles Guía Repsol)

As you might have guessed from the awards, high-end cuisine in on offer here. The spot’s name (the corner) is to be taken literally. You dine here at the western corner restaurant on the hotel’s top floor.

Of course, you find here no modest place but a generous, contemporarily furnished dining room. Plus, you have the most fabulous views.

Two brothers are at work at El Rincón, Juan Carlos (chef) and Jonathan (pastry chef) Padrón. They do this together with their wives who are responsible for the front of house and are sommeliers too. It has been a family business for more than 20 years. In 2021, they moved it to Hotel Royal Hideaway Corales Beach.

On offer at this restaurant is new Canarian cuisine, and this in the form of a single Tasting Menu (170€).

You get many small dishes (we had 13), divided in Welcome, First Station, Second Station and Desserts. All the accolades are well-earned, everything we got was top-notch. We especially liked the snacks and the desserts. The Sweet Tree was impressive served along with the petit fours. However, the experience was overly lengthy. They had announced three hours but in our case it lasted four hours – we only got the snacks after twenty minutes. We had also ordered the Artisan Bread Service (9€ extra per person). Unfortunately, it turned out to be the same bread we had for breakfast at the hotel every morning. These two issues diminished the excellent impression we otherwise had of El Rincón de Juan Carlos.

4. San Hô at Hotel Royal Hideaway Corales Beach

(1 star Michelin, 1 S0le Guía Repsol)

The dining experience at San Hô combines culinary influences from Japan, Peru and the Canary Islands. Two young chefs – Adrián Bosch and Eduardo Domínguez – are at the helm, and this in an open kitchen.

The setting is nice, modern and minimalistic with lots of wood and stone. You can choose among two menus: Esencia (120€) and San Hô (145€). The former can be enhanced by (costly) additions (caviar, wagyuA5 and carabinero). My husband and I opted for the Esencia Menu without the extra dishes.

And we relished it! All the courses were amazing, but the stars were for me the Buenavista Prawn with Ginger Beurre Blanc as well as the excellent selection of petit fours.

San Hô was my favorite dining spot among the many great gourmet places at Hotel Royal Hideaway Corales Beach. There was nothing I did not like. Even our seats just across the open kitchen, with open doors to the outdoor area, were ideal for the not overly warm temperatures we had. In any case, I was astonished to see that the terrace was full of guests. When it comes to the service, it was immaculate. In my opinion, if you can only have one dinner at this hotel, go for San Hô.

5. Il Bocconcino at Hotel Royal Hideaway Corales Beach

(1 star Michelin, 1 Sole Guía Repsol)

If you are looking for an Italian restaurant unlike any other, you are right here. Chef Niki Pavanelli, originally from Bologna, knows how to persuade with a unique progressive Italian cuisine that stays long in the memory. When dining here, you are spoilt for choice, you can opt for à la carte, the Identidad Menu (110€) or the Il Bocconcino Menu (13o€).

We had the latter and were delighted by the offerings. While the bread course was paired with rather hearty sausages, the rest was refined and elaborate. My personal highlights were the two pasta dishes and the dessert, the chef’s take on Zuppa Inglese.

As to the setting, we got seats on the lovely terrace.

Yet all the other guests did, although the weather did not cooperate. Actually, a chilly breeze was blowing. The couple who arrived at the same time did not stay long and demanded to dine indoors. We did not follow their example, although we should have. High-end dining and cool, breezy weather are not a good match. And I cannot understand that Il Bocconcino provided service outdoors in these weather conditions. In spite of everything, the premises are nice, and the staff did a good job.

6. Starfish Atlantic Grill at Hotel Royal Hideaway Corales Beach

(Guía Repsol Recommended)

Victor Bossecker, executive chef at Hotel Royal Hideaway Corales Beach, is responsible for this restaurant. Actually, it is his flagship establishment. The motto here is: union of fire and sea. Yet meat is available too. As to its space, it is an open-air setting.

There is an open kitchen with a semi-open dining room plus an outdoor area with heaters.

My husband and I opted for the former, which was alright. Though it was not exactly warm, it was manageable. In terms of ambiance, it was the least upscale dining spot we visited at this hotel. I would label it as smart casual. The staff at Starfish Atlantic Grill was hospitable and informative, we felt well at ease.

As to the food, we did not order from the extensive à la carte menu. Instead, we went for the Atlantic Menu (75€).

After all, they specialise on food as the name of the place suggests. It turned out to be a good choice. They served lots of fish, partly Peruvian- or Mexican-inspired (tiradito or taco). The main was a tasty blue butterfish. Plus, the two desserts were delicious. I only would have liked the food to be more seasoned.

My Tenerife content

While this post was about some of the best fine-dining outlets in south and nordwest Tenerife, the last concerned two luxury hotels in the same areas. My reporting on the largest Canary Island started with a look at its overtourism, which has become a serious concern. Therefore, I cannot really recommend traveling to Tenerife, at least if you plan to explore its sights. This may be different if you want to remain at your hotel most of the time. Anyway, for the sake of completeness, I included information on where to stay and dine in style on this island in the Atlantic too. However, I am unsure whether to return to Tenerife any time soon.

Date of stay: March 2025

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After visiting Madeira regularly in recent years, is is high time for me as fine-dining lover to give an update on the island’s impressive gourmet restaurant scene. While I already published an overview where to dine in style in Madeira in 2022, some changes have occurred in the meantime. To my astonishment, this landscape has seen quite many newcomers as of late. This concerns the high-end segment as well as the more moderately priced dining spots. Yet also most of the long-term players are still in the game and have even improved their proposal. Let us dive into the topic of where to go for best (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants in Madeira without further ado.

Again as in 2022, I want to form categories. I start with top-tier places, continue with modern, more affordable ones before ending with rather traditional ones with a twist. In each section, I tackle the new restaurants first, then proceed to the longer-established. Furthermore, you also find out about some eateries with simple but good food and my plans for further explorations in Madeira’s fine-dining scene.

1. Top-tier fine dining in Madeira

For an extended period of time, there were only two restaurants that could be associated with top gastronomy. Both are located at five-star hotels, and this in neighbouring ones. Then in 2023, the situation changed with the entrance of a newbie.

1.1. Restaurant Desarma at Hotel The Views Baía (1-star Michelin)

About

After the four-star hotel The Views Baía underwent some refurbishment works in 2021 and 2022, the project was crowned with the opening of a new dining spot on its rooftop in spring 2023. It was about Restaurant Desarma helmed by chef Octávio Freitas. The name means “disarms”. The chef, who was born in Madeira and never worked abroad, wants to disarm his guests not with weapons but with products, passion and technique. After being in business for one year only, the dining spot already got a Michelin star (in February 2024). And this without Octávio Freitas ever working in a starred restaurant. However, he can look back on a 25-year career in cooking, since 2009 as executive chef at the three hotels of The Views Group.

Not only the fast winning of this prestigious award is impressive, but also Restaurant Disarma’s setting. Upon arrival in the hotel, a member of staff picks you up at the reception and accompanies you to its premises. It is a thoroughly modern place with an open-plan layout where an extraordinary cooking block dominates. Eight guests can be seated at the counter clad in Breccia Pontificia marble.

Furthermore, there is quite a number of “regular” tables, from many of them you have fabulous views of Funchal.

What to expect at Restaurant Desarma?

I mentioned it, an (imaginary) battle awaits you here. The chef’s proposal is about flavors that disarm those who try them. And he is very passionate about his homeland, honoring the island and its products. All the while, Octávio Freitas describes his cuisine as simple. He values enhancing the natural quality of the ingredients.

On offer at Restaurant Desarma are three tasting menus: The Chef’s Counter with 12 Moments (9 Plans and 3 Improvisations) at 275€, The Chef’s Battle with 9 Moments at 225€ and Armed with Senses with 6 Moments at 195€. My husband and I decided on the whole she-bang as we wanted to have a seat at the counter.

And the experience was worth every single cent. The food stood out as intriguing, delicious and inventive.

At the same time, it instilled a sense of comfort too. I only wished we had not opted for the wine pairing. While the wines were formidable, it was way too much in terms of quantity (half glasses would have been enough). As to the staff, it was knowledgeable, smooth and engaging. They explained the offerings to us without becoming too lenghty. The pastry chef even demonstrated his craft in front of us. And it was great to watch the team in action. The eight chefs (one woman among them) appeared to work in harmony. However, we did not get many details because so much was happening all the time. It was a nonstop undertaking until the service of the hot dishes was finished.

1.2. Restaurant Il Gallo d’Oro at Hotel The Cliff Bay (2-star Michelin)

About Restaurant Il Gallo d’Oro

“The Golden Rooster” is the first restaurant that got a Michelin star in Madeira. That was back in 2009, the second followed in 2017. It is situated within the five-star hotel The Cliff Bay and has been run by French chef chef Benoît Sinthon since 2004. When he took over at the time, he changed the concept of this dining spot that had been serving Italian cuisine up to this point. From then on, he offered refined Mediterranean food. And he also included Madeiran dishes. Before, the chef had worked at a number of Michelin starred restaurants, in particular in France.

What to expect at Restaurant Il Gallo d’Oro?

The chef revisits traditional Madeiran recipes and interprets them in a new way, using modern techniques and the freshest produce. Many of the ingredients are organic and come from the hotel group of PortoBay’s own garden.

As of late, only one tasting menu is available at Il Gallo d’Oro (8 dishes at 245€ and 11 at 295€). Previously, you could make your choice out of two ones. While the Terroir Experience particularly highlighted local dishes, the Il Gallo d’Oro Top Experience featured the best what the dining spot has to offer.

On our visits to Il Gallo d’Oro a few years back, it was still possible to get a menu priced under 200 € (165€ in 2021 and 195€ in 2022).

I personally think that the current price level at this restaurant is over the top. This is especially true for Madeiran standards as you usually do not have to break the bank to dine out here, also in style. I even consider the price range at Il Gallo d’Oro as similar as at comparable establishments in Zurich/Switzerland. While we liked what we got here on these two occasions, the food did not knock us off our feet. Everything was of high quality and immaculately prepared yet lacked that special something. And the portions were miniscule.

The setting here is nice. After passing the impressive wine cellar you come to a dining room that has been updated in an elegant style with modern touches not long ago. A special feature here are large picture windows and high ceilings.

Sadly, the servers are not all and always up to the level you expect from an establishment of this caliber. Especially towards the end of both our  dinners, there was the one or other service slip. As a consequence of the described issues, we did not revisit Il Gallo d’Oro on our last two stays in Madeira.

1.3. Restaurant William at Hotel Reid’s Palace (1-star Michelin)

About Restaurant William

William is the signature restaurant at the Reid’s Palace, Madeira’s grand old dame, opened in 1891 –

in case you want to know more about it, here is my correspondent post. The name is a tribute to William Reid, the Scottish man who built the legendary hotel. The dining spot does not have such a long history, it only dates back to 2015. At the time, the former chef, the Madeiran Luís Pestana, got his own place. Not long after, he gained a Michelin star and have kept it ever since. José Diogo Costa succeeded him in 2023. As his predecessor, he was born in Madeira. After working abroad for some time, he returned to his native island in order to tackle new challenges.

And the new chef was able to retain the Michelin star for Restaurant William! It is an elegant place with maybe the best views of Funchal.

What to expect at Restaurant William?

I can look back at two dinners at William. While one was in 2021 under the former chef, the other took place end of 2023. At that point of time, José Diogo Costa was already at the helm. And I must say that I liked the latter better. Both the service and the food were more convincing. However, that does not mean that the first dinner did not satisfy. Otherwise, I would have not returned (I did not know at the time of the dinner that the chef had changed).

You get at William the finest produce from Madeira, creatively prepared with a modern touch. On our occasion, we ordered the Signature Menu with six courses (including a small pre-dessert) costing 160€.

Nowadays, you can choose between two menus, William (5 courses at 190€) or Discovery (4 courses at 160€). All the dishes we had were perfectly made and attractively arranged. In particular the lobster was a treat!

And the staff did and said all the right things on this evening. Plus, we got a beautiful table just by the large picture windows allowing us to take in the fabulous views of Funchal.

I would return to Restaurant William in a heartbeat, not only because of the excellent dinner experience we had, but also due to its pricing, which I still find reasonable enough. We did not so on our last visit to this island. Yet that was only due to the fact that we had to try out two new addresses in our quest for the best fine-dining restaurants in Madeira.

2. Modern fine dining in Madeira

The newbie here is something special because it is housed in a private home yet far from being amateurish. As to number two and three of this section, the players were already on my 2022 list. Yet there has been an expansion of their culinary offerings in the meantime.

2.1. Restaurant Gazebo (Michelin listed)

Well, as I have hinted, when dining here, you are at a personal home.

But do not worry, is is not about having a meal in someone’s living room. Instead, you are in the gazebo

of a beautiful quinta, a Madeiran estate, which is separated from the residential house. Your hosts are chef Filipe Janeiro and project manager Adrianne Zino, “the daughter of the house”. And the Gazebo is a professional restaurant where the chef – who first made a name for himself as private chef – does a brilliant job. On offer is a modern-style tasting menu, either in 6 or 9 courses (80/120€), prepared with local produce.

The couple started the business with a supper club – which still exist. In fall 2023, they launched their Gazebo Experience (regular restaurant). And less than one and a half year later, they already got a Michelin listing. Since then, prices have been considerably raised – on our dinner in mid-January 2025 the menus were still priced at 60/90€. Yet I think that was a real bargain at the time, now the pricing seems appropriate for what you get here. And this is a mouthwatering culinary experience

in nice surroundings with a perfect service. Plus, you can watch the chef – his team consists of 8 persons – in his open kitchen. On top of that, there is also an outdoor lounge where you can have an aperitif weather permitting.

2.2. Restaurants by PortoBay Hotels 

Since my 2022 overview on Madeira’s upscale dining-spot scene, the PortoBay Hotels have enlarged their gastronomic offer. And so they keep making a significant contribution to the best fine-dining restaurants in Madeira They opened one more eatery focusing more on vegetable fare (Restaurant Horta) and made a change at their Avista Restaurant. While there was always an Asian part at Avista, they separated it more from its bigger sister of Avista Mediterranean and called it Avista Asia. While both share the same building at Hotel Les Suites at the Cliff Bay with unobstructed sea views – Avista means View – , their concept is different.

2.2.1. Restaurant Horta at Hotel Porto Mare (Michelin listed)

With the opening of Restaurant Horta in summer 2023 – the name means vegetable garden – , PortoBay Hotels ideally complemented their culinary offer. I regard their concept and implementation as compelling, especially because it is not too rigid. You find not only vegetarian dishes on the menu, but also fish, poultry and meat. Yet there is a strong focus on innovative and healthy food, albeit one that gives comfort too. And imagine, the dining spot under the lead of Santiago Anolles made it to the Michelin Guide in less than one year after the opening!

Ingredients are sourced from the hotel group of PortoBay’s own garden or from local farmers. I was fond of everything we had on our two dinners here (late 2023 and early 2025), which consisted of vegetarian starters,

fish mains and

(excellent) desserts.

The setting is casual, modern and stylish (huge wooden chairs and lots of cushions).

Plus, there is a terrace full of plants.

As to the location, it is in the “Hotel Zone” a bit out of the town center, yet not too far. The only thing that I think needs some improvement is the service, which I consider a bit too nonchalant.

2.2.2. Restaurant Avista at Hotel Les Suites at the Cliff Bay (Michelin listed)

Shortly after the opening of Restaurant Avista in late 2019, it got into the Michelin guide. And it still is. On offer here is contemporary Mediterranean food with a twist.

Many of the produce stems from the hotel’s own garden.

The chef here has been João Luz, and this since day one. And he does this job overviewed by two-Michelin star chef Benoît Sinthon.

I have dined at Restaurant Avista many times in my four stays at Hotel Les Suites at the Cliff Bay

– if you should be interested in this lodging, here is my post about it. And the experience here was always rewarding. While you get here not necessarily super-creative cuisine, everything I have had so far was well prepared and tasty. Concept wise think more of refined comfort food that can be shared too. On offer is an extensive menu where you choose between pasta, main courses with an integrated side dish or such ones where you add one from a list. And many of the main dishes come from the Josper grill.

As to the pricing, I consider it as reasonable.

There is also a tasting menu available. Unfortunately, you cannot choose the number of courses, but you have to go for all of the six courses (115€). The atmosphere at Avista is relaxed, the staff friendly and helpful. And you are seated either inside in some sort of a glass cube

or in the outside restaurant, both times with fabulous sea views.

2.2.3. Restaurant Avista Asia at Hotel Les Suites at the Cliff Bay (Michelin listed)

Avista Asia is a new addition to the Michelin guide (2025). Its premises are on the upper floor where you only can catch glimpses of the sea in the interiors. However, there is a (not so big) balcony where you are able to gaze out at the sea.

Chef Rui Pinto is at the helm at this eatery. As to the ambiance and the staff, they are comparable to those at the other Avista (Mediterranean concept). There is nothing to complain about.

When it comes to food, here is all about Asian fusion fare. You find dishes on the menu that are inspired by the Chinese, Japanese or Korean cuisine. I have dined here four times and it mostly met our expectations. Just as at the other Avista, the food is skillfully crafted without being overly imaginative – and it is adequately priced. Of course, the sushi

is not like in upscale spots in Japan – but where is it outside this country? You can opt for à la carte where you decide between sushi, “regular” main courses or premium ones (blue lobster or wagyu from Kagoshima). Alternatively, there is a range of tasting menus: Omakase (120€), 3-course Discovery Menu (72€), 5-course Nomad Menu (99€)

or 7-course Premium Menu (192€).

2.3. Restaurants by Chef Júlio Pereira 

When doing my last overview on Madeiran restaurants in 2022, Júlio Pereira had two of them, Kampo with a focus on meat and Akua with one on seafood. When the chef born in mainland Portugal came to Madeira, he started in 2018 with Kampo and added Akua half a year later. In the meantime, he has been busy opening more dining spots. On the one hand, he took over Theo’s, a Portuguese restaurant founded in 1933 (March 2024). On the other hand, he opened a new one. This is about Yuki, an Izakaya, a Japanese bar (September 2024). And so Chef Júlio Pereira has become a big player in the field of best fine-dining restaurants in Madeira.

All his dining spots have a vibrant, relaxed feel and modern food offerings. And you get value for money here. I already have dined in two of his places, at Akua

and at Yuki.

2.3.1. Restaurant Akua by Júlio Pereira (Michelin listed)

Akua made it into the Michelin guide 2025 after being in business for five years! I find it well-deserved because this eatery is on the same level as the before mentioned Avista. You find on its menu almost only seafood, in all variations. For those who do not eat fish, there is also the one or other meat or vegetarian dish. My husband and I dined here on two occasions (in late 2021 and 2023) and chose the same main course, Creamy Carabinieri and Seafood Rice (2023: 69€ for two, now 72€). And both time it was formidable! Also the bread here is delicious.

In case you would like a tasting menu, there is one with six courses (2023: 96€, now 98€).

You can sit either at a few tables or at the counter on the ground floor.

There is also an upper floor with quite many tables, but I find it less attractive as downstairs. And there is a small outside restaurant too. The atmosphere (on the ground floor) is lively, loud, and there are also kitchen smells (as the chef work behind the counter). The staff is laid-back, pleasant and helpful. I could not dine here every evening as it is buzzing, but the one or other visit is just right and a rewarding thing to do!

2.3.2. Restaurant Yuki by Júlio Pereira

We had dinner at Yuki about three months after its opening. It was not super-busy on our evening in mid-January. As I mentioned above, it is an Izakaya, a casual Japanese eatery where you usually order small plates to share. According to Yuki’s website – Yuki translates to luck – , chef Júlio Pereira considered it as the logical consequence to open a Japanese place after taking so much inspiration from this cuisine for his first two projects, Kampo and Akua.

My husband and I quickly agreed on opting for the Kaiseki Menu (6 courses, 96€).

This in view of the menu that was a bit too extensive and too overwhelming for my taste. And it was a good choice as more or less all sections were covered. I especially liked the two first courses, Ussuzukuri Amberjack and Karachi Salmon. Yet everything was great! As to the sushi, it was westernized, as almost everywhere outside of Japan (see also Avista Asia). If you want to order à la carte, there are six sections to choose from: Sakizuke (starters), Tempura (fried), Ussuzukuri (thin fish slices), Sushi, Donburi (rice bowls), Robatayaki (barbecue). Since our dinner the offer has been thinned out a bit, which I find a good thing. And there is now an Omakase Menu (6 dishes at 100€) as well, yet I am not sure how it compares to the Kaiseki Menu we had.

In terms of ambiance, there is a counter behind which the chefs perform their craft – and where you also can have a seat.

From what I learned from our server, the head chef is not a Japanese but a Nepalese, but never mind. Otherwise, I found it quite stylish in here and pleasant too.

Staff was friendly, yet as I thought not very thorough when it comes to Japanese cuisine – yet the dining spot is still young.

3. Traditional fine dining in Madeira – with a twist

While there are lots of traditional dining spots in Madeira, I am not sure whether many among them also merit the label of fine dining. If you consult the Michelin Guide 2025 for Madeira, he lists two such restaurants (only one for Funchal). It is about Casal da Penha, a family-run restaurant serving simple Portuguese food. My husband and I dined here once in late December 2022 and were not overly enthusiastic about the experience. While we were warmly welcomed and enjoyed the bread, Bolo do Caco, the rest was nothing extraordinary.

In the Michelin Guide 2024, two more establishments were listed that have not found its way in it in the latest edition. It is about Armazém do Sal and Villa Cipriani. As to the former, we dined here twice (in late 2021 and early 2023) and liked the food, which is traditional with modern accents.

However, we were not so in favor of how the evening started. Both times, they ignored us for a while before they got in touch with us.

When it comes to Villa Cipriani, we also had dinner there twice, although the first visit dates back many years (in 2007). The second was in late 2021, where we were satisfied with the offered (upscale Italian food).

However, my sister in law – a true fine dining lover too – dined here recently and could not say a good word about it.

4. Simple but good restaurants in Madeira

For those who love the variety and look for the one or other simple but good restaurant, I have three recommendations. First, it is about 5 Sentidos, a small eatery where you get traditional flavors with modern touches.

When we first dined here end of 2022 it had been only open for six months. We had a fine meal here with excellent fish, and it was a bargain. One year later, the dining experience was again enjoyable, although I would recommend opting for fish

or braised meat as a main course, but not for their Veal Fillet. Clearly, their understanding of fillet differs from mine (tenderloin). Yet, 5 Sentidos is still worth a visit in search of a good meal.

Back in late 2021, I enjoyed a tasty yet simple dinner at Franco’s Corner.

And its Google reviews are still very good. Here they serve Mediterranean and traditional Portuguese food, sometimes with a twist.

Finally, on our most recent Madeira stay (January 2025), we made it to Chris’s Place.

It had been on our to-do-list for quite long, and my sister in law strongly endorsed it. My verdict is that the food (international cuisine) is solid without being exceptional.

Ironically, I found out later that Chris’s Place is no longer owned by Chris. So, obviously I have postponed my visit too long. Apparently, his ex-wife is now in charge.

5. Which fine-dining restaurants – that are new to me – are on my list for a next stay in Madeira?

My search for the best fine-dining restaurants in Madeira never ends. So, I already have a to-do list for my next stay in Madeira (November 2025). The Michelin Guide 2025 for Madeira included two restaurants that were new to me. On the one hand, it is about Oxalis at Hotel Casa Velha do Palheiro.

From what I read, it was opened in September 2024. They renovated the existing dining spot and launched a new concept. Chef Gonçalo Bita Bota is in charge here, who has been working at this hotel since March 2022. Although the whole sounds interesting enough, I am not sure whether we will make it there as it is a bit out of town.

On the other hand, Michelin added one more eatery in Madeira to its guide, Audax. This time, it is a spot that is more conveniently located in Funchal’s “Hotel Zone”.

And the restaurant’s concept of a progressive Madeiran cuisine sounds really promising. From what I found out, it has been open since April 2023. And young chef César Vieira joined the family project (Marisa Freitas as owner, son Diogo as manager) in September 2023.

Date of last visit: January 2025

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When traveling the Peloponnese and using Athens’ airport, you cannot help but visiting Greece’s capital too. At least if you have not yet done it before, which was the case for my husband and me. So, we had scheduled a three-day city getaway in the capital after finishing our two-week journey in the southernmost part of the Greek mainland. After much time in the Greek countryside, we yearned the hustle of city life. Above all, we were looking forward to savoring one of the best hotels and some of the Michelin (starred) restaurants in Athens. While we had not eaten badly at all in the Peloponnese, we were more than ready for a change. We had booked three Michelin dining spots, one of them a starred one, close to where we were lodging. And this was at a newer luxury hotel opposite the Old Parliament. Find in the following all the details of our Athens stay.

Before delving into this topic, first a few lines to our Peloponnese trip.

14 days on the road in the Peloponnese in style

The Peloponnese Peninsula, just south-west of Athens, extends from Greece’s mainland like an outstretched hand. We traveled four of its fingers and its palm. A three-part mini-series goes into the different areas. The route is indicated on my Google Map below:

Part one of this series starts with an overview of the whole journey, followed by detailed reports. We began our round trip on its “Thumb” (around Nafplio, part one) before continuing to the “East Finger” (Monemvasia and surroundings, part two). Next was the “Middle Finger” (Mani, part two). Before heading to the “Peloponnese Palm” (Olympia and Arcadia, part three), we explored the “West Finger” (Messenia, part three). All the while, we tried to stay at upscale hotels and eat at fine-dining restaurants, which was not easy. First, they are not really plentiful. Second, our timing was not ideal (late October/early November). Many establishments had already closed for the season. Yet, we managed properly enough. I also included some information about what to do everywhere we were in my reporting.

But now to the capital, where staying and dining in style most probably is never an issue. When looking for lodging and dining in Athens, we had a luxury hotel and Michelin (starred) restaurants in mind. They should be among the best in town yet worth the money spent on them. Find all the corresponding details hereafter – but nothing about things to do in Greece’s capital – such information is already abundant on the internet.

Which luxury hotel to choose in Athens

As my husband and I wanted to explore Athens by foot, we had been looking for a centrally located upscale hotel. As some more known establishments in the heart of Greece’s capital came with rather hefty price tags, we widened our search on smaller lodgings. And when I discovered Hotel Xenodocheio Milos, I found it to be the perfect choice for the two of us. Read on to learn why.

Hotel Xenodocheio Milos Athens’ back story

The hotel is named for chef Costas Spiliadis’s restaurants called Estiatorio Milos found in over ten locations all over the world. He has made a name for himself for his refined yet unpretentious approach to Greek cuisine, offering fresh Mediterranean fish and seafood.

With his first hotel carrying the Milos brand name he also entered the hotel industry. And he chose a similar way as with his restaurants, meaning to create a lodging that is upscale yet understated. With his first hotel project he wants to hold up the mottos of “philoxenia” (“friend to a stranger”) and to “xenodocheio” (“make a stranger feel at home”).

Location of Xenodocheio Milos Athens, one of the best hotels in town

In my view, Hotel Xenodocheio Milos in the Commercial Triangle of Athens could not be more perfectly located! It is situated in the heart of downtown Athens opposite the Old Parliament House. Very close by you find the central Syntagma Square, the National Gardens and the city’s chicest shopping street. Many popular neighbourhoods are in its immediate proximity: Plaka, one of Athens’ oldest,

Psyrri, the creative center, or the glitzy Kolonaki. Plus, there is an abundance of fine restaurants nearby. And the Acropolis is easily accessible from Hotel Xenodocheio Milos, though not exactly next door.

Ambiance/Staff

The building that has housed Xenodocheio Milos since January 2022 embodies the grandeur of Athens’ history. It is a stunning neo-classical building, established in 1880. In 1979, the Greek Ministry of Culture even proclaimed it as “designated landmark building”.

Yet also the interiors are persuasive. It spans over five floors and private balconies. On the ground floor, Restaurant Estiatorio Milos with a bar

take up the most space. It really is a dream of white marble, light-colored wood and smooth leather. And it comes with a nod to the nautical world (some kind of fishing nets on the ceiling).

There is little room left for the reception area, which is staffed by very accommodating and helpful employees. Service was provided with the signature warmth that we experienced throughout the hotel.

Rooms at Xenodocheio Milos Athens

Out of the 42 rooms at Xenodocheio Milos we chose the Executive Junior Suite (42-46sqm, 542€ with breakfast). While some rooms of other categories have views of the Old Parliament Hill, this is not so for the Executive Junior Suites. They are in the corner of the hotel overlooking an arcade and some rather ugly office buildings. Our accommodation was spacious and elongated with only one not so big window, which made it a bit dark. Yet it is a historical building, still I wish that the lighting system had been better (some lamps are connected).

Otherwise, we were fond of our room, which was sleek and minimalist. Design wise, I especially liked the headboard and the desk, which were curvy. From what understand, they echoes the movement of the wind through inflated sails, another nautical nod. The room features a rather large table, so in-room dining would have been a good option. The bathroom was spacious and with white marble finishes.

We had booked the room with breakfast that was served in the above mentioned Restaurant Estiatorio Milos on the ground floor. We liked what we got, tasty Greek yoghurt with granola, a fruit and a cheese platter, a bread and pastry basket and local honey. The one thing  I found slightly disappointing was that we had exactly the same offerings – to the type of the pastry – on three consecutive days.

Facilities

I already mentioned the dining spot onsite several times, Restaurant Estiatorio Milos, serving upscale Greek seafood. My husband and I did not dine here, we only had breakfast. There were three reasons for this. First, we had enough of such food on our Peloponnese trip prior to the Athens stay. Second, dining at this restaurant comes with a high price tag. And third, it does not appear in the Michelin guide.

As to other facilities at Hotel Xenodocheio Milos, they are limited. You find here a small wellness and fitness suite. Yet who needs more when being on a city trip?

In summary about one of the best hotels in Athens

I cannot imagine that there is a much better choice than Hotel Xenodocheio Milos in Athens when it comes to staying in style with an eye for value for money at the best possible location in town. And the building which houses the lodging is a historical gem. Its interiors come in minimalist decor with lots of white marble finishes both in the restaurant and the guest room’s bathrooms. Our room (Executive Junior Suite) was stylish and spacious, yet a bit on the dark side (only one window). Staff was always gracious and keen to help. The (seafood) restaurant onsite, Estiatorio Milos, is showy – much more than the reception. Yet you have to know that it is Costas Spiliadis’s baby, who has over ten dining spots of the same name all over the world. As to Hotel Xenodocheio Milos, it is his first foray into the hotel industry!

Dining in style in Athens

I mentioned it before, we dined at three Michelin (starred) restaurants on our Athens stay. As always when there is a huge selection of foodie spots to chose from, my husband and I opt for such ones that meet following criteria: among the best restaurants yet not costing the earth, near to our hotel, more on the modern side and getting good reviews.

1. Restaurant Mercerie (Michelin listed)

This relaxed yet chic dining spot is in the most beautiful pedestrian road that I came across in three days of exploring Athens! It is about Iraklidon Street, the beating heart of the Thissio neighborhood. The setting is perfect for an enjoyable meal either in the stylish outdoor area or in the interiors, which are nearly identical.

Mercerie is helmed by two female chefs – Melina Chomata and Maria Ntioudi -, with year-long experience at luxury hotels in Santorini. They perform in an open kitchen, allowing diners to watch the chefs at work.

On offer at Mercerie is international cuisine, sometimes more classy, other times more contemporary, yet often also with a Greek touch. You can choose among an à la carte menu, where you also find a “Raw”-section, and a 7-course tasting menu (on our visit 65€, now 70€). My husband and I opted for the latter, and we were delighted by what we got, which was equally fresh, light, creative, varied and tasty.

Service was pleasant and competent. The only negative point was that they only had paper napkins, what did not suit the character of this establishment.

2. Restaurant Nolan (Michelin Bib Gourmand)

Without being aware of it, Nolan was in its final stages as it was known on our dinner in November 2024. This was the last month of Sotiris Kontizas’ time at this casual fine dining outlet, which is in close proximity to the Syntagma Square.

The chef has Greek Japanese roots and served refined Greek-Asian fusion dishes at Nolan, meant to share,

and this as from 2016. From what I read this dining spot gained popularity very fast among Athens foodies. I can understand that well – other than the excellent food, the rates were reasonable, and the service was very good. While the news of the chef having left is a pity, it is not the end of Nolan.

The eatery’s website states that the collaboration with Sotiris Kontizas, also known as judge on Greek MasterChef, is finished. Since December 2024, Nolan has been aspiring to become a platform for experimentation, and this for talented chefs. At the same time, basic principles will be left unchanged. The start made Michalis Nourloglou, who seems to be experienced professional. Let us hope that Nolan 2.0 can build on the success of its previous achievements.

3. Restaurant CTC Urban Gastronomy (one Michelin starred), one of the best restaurants in Athens

CTC Urban Gastronomy, established 2015, moved some years ago into the up and coming neighborhood of Kerameikos, known for its vibrant nightlife. Chef Alexandros Tsiotinis did so because this opened up the possibility of setting up an outdoor area. And a wonderful urban garden has been created.

Soon after the move, the new place got a Michelin star. And the restaurants is also on the 50Best Discovery List by the World’s 50 Best Restaurants.

On offer here is modern Greek cuisine over 11 courses – called CTC Voyage, priced at 105€ -,

served in a contemporary setting. Everything we got was creative, delicious and memorable. A signature dish here is the octopus-shaped fava bean pannacotta glazed with octopus jelly.

Staff was courteous and competent. Dining at CTC Urban Gastronomy was definitely the highlight of all the meals we had on this Greece trip.

Before coming to an end of my Greece reporting, here are some more culinary tips for “connoisseurs” visiting Athens.

3 more culinary tips for Athens

Without much additional information, here are three addresses in Athens’ Commercial Triangle for people appreciating the finer things in life. It is about a bar, a patisserie and and an ice-cream parlor. As to the first mentioned one, I recommend Baba au Rum, a casual bar with creative drinks, nice staff and good music. This pleasant place even made it to The World’s 50 Best Bars list. When it comes to patisserie, maybe try out The Zillers Pastry Bar. While the place lacks organization, the pastries are delicious. And Georgios Platinos, working at one-star Michelin restaurant The Zillers, is responsible for them.

And last but not least, Oggi Athens features divine Italian ice-cream.

Looking back to a Peloponnese 14-day road trip & an Athens 3-day stay in style

In this very post (part four), it was all about an ideally situated luxury hotels in Greece’s capital and three great Michelin (starred) restaurants in close proximity. Part one to three concentrated on the main focus of the journey that my husband and I undertook in late October/early November 2024. And this was to the “Peloponnese Hand”, called like this because of the form of this southernmost part of mainland Greece. Part one was about an overview and the “Thumb” (Nafplio and surroundings). Part two showcased the “East Finger” (Monemvasia etcetera) and the “Middle Finger” (Mani). Finally, part three finally went into the “West Finger” (Messenia) and the “Palm” (Olympia and the mountainous Arcadia). Throughout my Peloponnese reporting, I informed about what to do in the respective places and where to go for upscale hotels and restaurants.

Date of visit: November 2024

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The post A short stay in Athens/Greece in style – PART IV end point of a Peloponnese trip first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post A short stay in Athens/Greece in style – PART IV, end point of a Peloponnese trip appeared first on Swiss Traveler.