Dining & staying in style at chef Patrick Henriroux’s 2-star Michelin restaurant south of Lyon:

Without knowing it, my husband and I dined at one of France’s iconic culinary institutions! Restaurant La Pyramide in Vienne, south of Lyon, was regarded as the country’s greatest restaurant. And this was under the lead of Fernand Point (from 1925 to 1955). He ranks as one of the fathers of French nouvelle cuisine. His most famous apprentice is none other than Paul Bocuse! Nowadays, chef Patrick Henriroux is the chef at Hotel La Pyramide Vienne. While he does of course not have the same status as Fernand Point, he definitely is an extremely talented cook. He has been holding his two-star Michelin rating for 30 years. My husband and I became fast fans of his modern yet intricate cuisine.

Find out how it is staying and dining at Patrick Henriroux’s pleasant Hotel La Pyramide, south of Lyon. My husband and I had chosen this accommodation for our last stop back home from a trip through north Italy and south France. And it turned out to be more than a worthy place to end a great journey! Before coming to our stay’s details, first some lines to the restaurant’s famous history, Patrick Henriroux’s work here and our Italy/France itinerary.

About La Pyramide’s history

Restaurant De La Pyramide in Vienne, south of Lyon, is nothing short of one of France’s legendary temples of gastronomy. And this is because of Fernand Point who was running it for 30 years. He was among the first chefs awarded three Michelin stars (in 1933). When he died in 1955 at the age of 58, his wife Marie-Luise Paulin, “Mado”, took over. She was able to maintain the restaurant’s high standard until her death in 1986.

When Fernand Point started his culinary career, the classic French cuisine was still en vogue, based on Auguste Escoffier. However, Fernand Point seeked change. He revolutionized the traditional French high cuisine by purifying and simplifying it. His modern approach was well received. Soon, La Pyramide became an obligatory stop for Europe’s great families on the Route Nationale 7, the vacation route between Paris and the border with Italy.

His peers called him the king. Paul Bocuse, Alain Chapel or Jean and Pierre Troisgros among others were his apprentices. During his reign over French cuisine there were few important celebrities and serious gourmets who did not make the journey to have dinner at La Pyramide. To this day, this restaurant has been the only one holding three Michelin stars for 53 years!

About Patrick Henriroux Hotel la Pyramide Vienne

After Fernand Point’s wife passed away, their adopted daughter sold the property to an estate company (in 1988), which started a renovation project. They added a 23-bedroom hotel, a new restaurant space, a garden and a covered terrace. And they were looking for a new chef, too. Several ones refused, save an upcoming young chef from the south of France, Patrick Henriroux. He did make a name for himself at Restaurant La Ferme de Mougins near Cannes, where he got a Michelin star.

He started in Vienne in 1989. Seven months later, he got his first Michelin star. In 1992, he earned his second one, which he has been holding ever since. In 1998, Patrick Henriroux and his wife Pascale got the chance to purchase the property and went for it. A year later, the hotel and restaurant became a member of the prestigious Relais & Châteaux hotel group. Standing still is not the couple’s thing. The restaurant has received two facelifts since they bought it. And they opened a casual bistro on the premises, l’Espace PH3. Two of their three children also work in the family business, Leslie Henriroux-Rineau as front office manager and Boris Henriroux as assistant general manager.

As to Patrick Henriroux’s background, he is the son of dairy farmers. In his childhood, he was a great fan of his grandmother’s cooking skills. After finishing hotel school, he worked under several of France’s leading chefs, most notably Georges Blanc. When he came to La Pyramide, he did not want this restaurant going like some sort of museum. Quite the opposite, he did change and evolve on a constant basis. His cooking style is contemporary yet without denying its roots in the traditional French cuisine. The food he prepares is complex, the platings are elaborate and the flavors are authentic. And he makes use of the Rhône valley’s bounty. And of course, you get here also the fine wines from the region.

Trip itinerary northern Italy & southern France

Our 11-day journey through northern Italy and southern France brought us not only to many great hotels but also to such restaurants. When traveling, my husband and I like staying at luxury lodging and dining at gourmet spots. While we do not aim to chase Michelin stars at any price, it usually results in nothing different than counting them at the end of a trip (there were seven this time). It seems we are gourmet travelers who cannot be helped any other way. And it became worse during the pandemic, confined to exploring more or less our backyards. Be it as is may, now to our itinierary. Please note that – despite an occasional splurge – we make sure that we get value for money. We try to avoid paying excessive prices.

We started in northern Italy in the Lake Orta region, near the Swiss border, with staying and dining at Villa Crespi (two Michelin stars, my posts about hotel and activities).

Then we went south, first to Piedmont’s wine region around Alba (Relais San Maurizio, one Michelin star, accommodation/things to do), then to Alassio on the Italian Riviera (Villa della Pergola, one Michelin star, my report plus what do do in the area). After passing the border to France, we stayed at Château Saint-Martin in the French Rivera hills (one Michelin star, hotel/activities). Before we came to Vienne south of Lyon, we had one more halt in the Provence near Les Baux-de-Provence. Here we settled for a relaxed boutique hotel (Hotel B Design with Nancy Bourguignon Restaurant), see my post about it and things to do here.

Staying in style at Patrick Henriroux Hotel La Pyramide Vienne

Location

As mentioned, you find Patrick Henriroux Hotel La Pyramide in Vienne, some 30 km/18 mi south of Lyon, in southeastern France. You reach it by car in about 25 minutes, by train in about 19 minutes from the country’s second largest city. The town is in the Rhône valley on the “Route du Midi” (route to the south), along the famous Route Nationale 7.

Hotel La Pyramide is located south of Vienna’s town center. You get to the latter in a 7-minute-walk. And it is well worth doing this, especially to have a look at the town’s rich historical heritage from Roman times. Do not miss the Roman Temple

or the Roman Theater.

Yet you do not have to go far to see one of the major monuments in this respect. The Roman Pyramid is just in front of Hotel La Pyramide. At the time, it marked the turn of a chariot racetrack. And of course the restaurant/hotel is named after it.

As to its situation, it is set in a residential neighborhood. From its look, it is a small country house in a quiet garden behind a high wall, as it has been for over a hundred years.

Rooms/Pricing

On offer here are 19 rooms, completely renovated in 2005, or 4 apartments. As to the rooms, you can book a Deluxe Room (30 sqm), either with Garden View or without. Rates start from 200 € (without Garden View) resp. 215 € (with Garden View). Apartments are available from 360 € (Standard Apartment, 50 sqm) resp. 400 € (Deluxe Apartment, 50 sqm).

My husband and I went for a Deluxe Room Twin with a Shower,

which cost us 314 € at the beginning of September, midweek. We also opted for the breakfast (30 € per person), which was delicious.

Everything was served and of exceptional quality. While our room was not really spacious, it was cleverly furnished. We had the impression of being in a larger accommodation than the advertised 30 sqm. It was well appointed in a contemporary style and equipped with everything you need for an overnight stay. There was even a sweet treat for us to indulge in. With regard to the bathroom, it was sizable with double sinks and a large shower.

I found the cost–benefit ratio at Hotel Pyramide very favorable!

Ambiance/Staff

Upon arrival, we were cared for by kind and attentive staff. A nice lady (Leslie Henriroux-Rineau?) directed us in the parking lot and accompanied us to the reception area where we got all the necessary information. When we were having a look around on the premises later – the garden is nice – , everyone we met was friendly and helpful. The same was true for our dinner. We were cordially welcomed and seated on the lovely terrace. And here we enjoyed a service that was excellent from start to finish.

The ambiance at Hotel Patrick Henriroux’s La Pyramide was relaxed and unpretentious, throughout our stay. And this cannot be taken for granted in France where upscale dining spots quite often tend to be somewhat stuffy.

Facilities/Restaurants

While La Pyramide has everything for a pleasant short stay, it is not the place with lots of facilities. First and foremost, you come here for the good food. There is a pleasant garden where you can take a few steps, that is it.

I have read about the opportunity to use a nearby fitness room under the website’s section of special offers, but there was no mention of it on our stay. When it comes to restaurants however, you can choose among two of them.

On the one hand, there is the signature dining-spot, the gastronomic Restaurant La Pyramide with Patrick Henriroux’s two-star Michelin cuisine on offer. Find below more details. On the other hand, there is the casual Espace PH3 Bistro,

which was opened in 2009. Here is everything about the number Three, three starters, three main courses, three desserts etc. I liked the style here (we only had breakfast here), it is modern and playful at the same time. And its outdoor area is great, the tables are scattered in the large garden.

After outlining what you can expect in terms of staying at La Pyramide, now to the dinner experience at Patrick Henriroux’s La Pyramide.

Dining in style at Patrick Henriroux 2-star Michelin Restaurant La Pyramide Vienne

Before coming to the food, some words to the setting here. When my husband and I dined here, the weather was nice and hot, so we could eat outside on the pleasant covered terrace.

We were lead through the interior restaurant to reach the outdoor area but I have no picture of it. It is kept contemporary in black, grey and yellow. While the walls, curtains, floor and a part of the chairs are dark, some of the the latter are upholstered in yellow. And the water glasses and some other things are yellow, too. For my taste, I found it a bit on the dark side and slightly bizarre, but it is original for sure. As to the terrace, it is modern, too. They left the beautiful trees but installed a concrete slab floor around them. For me, it is a bit cold. And again, you find the colors of black and yellow here.

Now to the food we had.

Colors-Smells-Flavors Pyramide (3 to 5 courses, 159 to 189 €)

When we dined here on a Monday evening, there was a seven-course tasting menu on offer. You could make your choice out of either five, six or seven courses (159, 176 or 189 €), which – I found – was price wise appropriate. And a cheese selection from a cart and a dessert were an integral part of it.

My husband and I opted for the five-course option. Already when we got the snacks, we knew we were in for a treat!

And that was confirmed when getting the first course, a huge piece of foie gras confit en lobe. There was a transparent cover, made with strawberry juices. And it was paired with blackcurrant puree and a brioche.

Next was a fish course that came in two parts. Frist, there was a monk fish, roasted with semi-salted butter and accompanied by young leek.

Second, we got a mussel from the Bretagne in unison with cream from Etrez in the Bresse region.

Superb!

Before the main dish, we were treated to a surprise course. It was a creamy creation made of goat cheese and tomato,

if I am right.

We proceeded with lamb that stemmed from a registered trademark (Allaiton from Aveyron),

and it was grandiose! It came as a roulade and as a ball. The latter was made of the thinly sliced shoulder part. The meat came in a combination with chickpeas, aromatized with lemon and peppers, and sheep’s yoghurt with green harissa.

Then it was time for cheese! And the cheese selection from the cart

was really impressive, everything from the region!

For dessert, they brought us a separate menu with four propositions in the two categories of “Chocolate” and “Fruits”. And for the interested guests, also the names of the two head patissiers appeared, Anthony Fresnay and Taïra Kawamura. Everything sounded promising, from the Chocolate Piano (new generation, dark and gold sorbet, toasted coffee sauce) to the Rhubarb (au natural, cooked and raw, crystallized violet petal and red shiso yogurt emulsion). My husband and I chose Chocolat Macaé, a dark chocolate soufflé in a sable tartlet and with cream d’Etrez, paired with a cocoa bean juice sorbet. It was heavenly!

The feast was rounded up with two series of petit fours.

The bottom line is simple, it was definitely the best meal of our Italy and France journey!

Overall Patrick Henriroux Hotel La Pyramide Vienne

If you are serious gourmet and look for the ideal stopover halfway between Paris and the French Riviera, then Patrick Henriroux Hotel La Pyramide Vienne is the perfect choice. It is located south of Lyon just off the north/south highway, the famous Route Nationale 7.

You find here not only a foodie destination, the two-Michelin starred La Pyramide Restaurant, but also super friendly hosts. In addition, there are comfortable, modernly furnished guest rooms, reasonably rated, at your disposal. If you are into the mood of a lighter, less formal dinner, then maybe opt for the casual bistro on the premises.

And while enjoying your meal in either of those places, let your thoughts wander to the time when the legendary chef Fernand Point was in charge here. He is regarded as one of the fathers of the French nouvelle cuisine and established at this very spot one of France’s greatest restaurants ever.

Looking back and forward

This is the last of of 11 posts about a 11-day trip that my husband and I took in northern Italy and southern France. This journey brought us not only to the Italian regions of Piedmont and Liguria, followed by the French Riviera and the Provence, but also to some of the best luxury hotels and Michelin star restaurants in these areas. While it was not our primary goal to dine at as many Michelin starred dining-spots as possible, we managed – to our amazement – seven Michelin stars in total!

What is next in terms of travel? After this first longer trip abroad to Italy and France, my husband and I boarded an airplane again after a Corona imposed time out of two years! And it was due to Madeira, Portugal’s island in the North Atlantic Ocean off the African coast.

I will report about this place in general before going into where to head here for staying and dining in style.

Date of stay: September 2021

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