Luxury hotel near Alba with Michelin star restaurant & great facilities amidst vineyards:

I have hardly ever experienced a hotel with such a beautiful location! Hotel Relais San Maurizio Piedmont is set on a hill near Alba in one of Italy’s most famous wine regions. From here you have a 360-degree panoramic view of the surrounding vineyards that is second to none! Gazing at these rolling hills, covered with vines, is such a relaxing thing to do! But there is more. On site, you find a five-star hotel with magnificent amenities, amongst others a one-star Michelin restaurant. And it is a historic property, a former monastery from the year 1619, renovated in the early 2000s. Plus there is a sprawling park with old-growth trees.

Before coming to how it is staying and dining at Hotel Relais San Maurizio Piedmont, first a few sentences to the journey through northern Italy and southern France my husband and I did in late summer. Here in the Piedmont region near Alba was our second stop.

Travel itinerary northern Italy & southern France

Coming from our home country Switzerland, we began our 11-day trip on the edge of Piedmont region, on Lake Orta. More precisely, we were in Orta San Giulio, not far from the Swiss border. Check out our choice of hotel here, Hotel Villa Crespi, and what to do in the area. After our stay at Relais San Maurizio Piedmont (my post, activities) we set off for the Mediterranen Sea. Here we opted for Alassio (hotel, what to do), close to the French border. Then we left Italy behind us for two more halts in the south of France (French Riviera hills – hotel, what to do – and Provence) before returning home via a stop south of Lyon.

As to our travel style, my husband and I love to stay and to dine in luxury. However, we do not pay excessive prices. And we are into exploring by walking, yet we prefer them to be enjoyable, i.e. not too strenous. As far as our Italy and France trip is concerned, here is my overview post with the itinerary.

Staying in style at Relais San Maurizio Piedmont, north Italy

Location

I have already provided some information about the location in the introduction. Here is some more. When coming from Alba by car, the road to Relais San Maurizio Piedmont becomes narrow and winding soon after leaving the highway. And at the same time, the landscape is getting more and more beautiful. After about a 30-minute drive you reach the resort that is remotely situated about eight minutes from Santo Stefano Belbo, the next bigger town. If you want to travel to the hotel by train or bus, these are no viable options.

It is hard not to be impressed by the beauty of Relais San Maurizio Piedmont’s setting at the top of a hill. When you look around, there are vineyards wherever your eyes fall. You are here in the Langhe, a hilly area in the provinces of Cuneo and Asti. It is famous of course for its wines but also for cheeses and truffles, in particular the white truffles of Alba. A part of the Langhe is on the UNESCO World Heritage list, too. And this for its cultural landscape, an uninterrupted system of hills with the best grapevines and wines. Think in this context of names just as Barolo, Moscato, Barbaresco and Barbera. As to Relais San Maurizio Piedmont, it is located in the Moscato vineyards.

History of Relais San Maurizio Piedmont

You already know by now that Relais San Maurizio Piedmont used to be a Cistercian monastery from the year 1619. It was built on the ruins of a century old chapel. In 1862, it became the private home for a noble family from the area.

In the late 1990s, Pier Domenico Gallo, a banker and financier, born in nearby Cossano Belbo, made an investment in his native land that he loves so much. He acquired the estate and converted it into an accommodation of excellence. In 2002, it opened its doors and became the first Relais & Château hotel in Piedmont. In the meantime, it changed to a membership with The Leading Hotels of the World instead.

Ambiance/Staff

Although there are only 36 rooms on site, it felt to me like a fairly large hotel. This is probably due to its considerable size and the fact that there is quite a number of different buildings. Most of them are historic ones. It is a spectacular estate indeed!

Although the staff here was friendly and helpful, it was also somewhat impersonal. In this context, the welcome upon our arrival at Relais Maurizio Piedmont was telling. A young gentleman, who was polite but not exactly warm, did the check-in. And this made a rather business like impression on me. We felt like being in a Hilton Hotel or so. Also the staff at the Restaurant Origini Bistrot showed such an attitude. However, the service at the Michelin starred Restaurant Guido da Costigliole was more amiable.

The owner, who lives on site, came across as a friendly person. We met him and his wife several times on our stay, either at dinner or breakfast. And we also made acquaintance with the resident dog, who was old and docile.

One more thing has to be said. The clientele here is rather international. There were lots of English speaking guests and few Italian ones. I think this might be due to the fact that Relais San Maurizio is a member of The Leading Hotels of the World.

Rooms/Pricing at Relais San Maurizio Piedmont

You can make your choice out of 30 Monastery Rooms in the 15th century property that include the monk cells, the sacristy and the stables. Elegant furnishings go hand in hand here with architectural elements from the original construction. These might be antique fireplaces, vaulted ceilings or inlaid wood floors. And what I find helpful, all the rooms, which are different from each other, are depicted on the website. They even state the correspondent room numbers. There are three room categories in the Monastery part: Monastery Rooms (24-48 sqm), Superior Rooms (30-58 sqm) and Monastery Suites (45-80 sqm).

In addition, you find six luxury suites in the Villa San Luigi on the top of the hill of San Maurizio. This is an 18th century farmhouse that was updated in 2013.

The accommodations are luxuriously appointed – and this is reflected in the rates (the most expensive ones at this hotel). You can either go for a Luxury (88-90 sqm) or a Presidential (90 sqm) Suite. Again, each room is distinct from each other, and contemporary design is combined with ancient tradition.

In terms of pricing, double rooms are from about 300 to 330€/US$ in low season (March & April) and from about 730 to 800€/US$ in high (October – December). Breakfast is included in the rate.

Now to the room my husband and I had.

Monastery Suite

As we considered the Villa San Luigi rooms as too expensive, we went for the Monastery Suites. Ours was La Selleria (The Saddlery), number 304, on the second floor of the stable building.

This part of the hotel is a bit away from the main building. While the view of the surrounding vineyards is beautiful, it is a bit obstructed by large trees. Yet you are here in a property with a very old tree population. And that is absolutely something that has to be appreciated.

There is a pleasant living room and adjoining, a corridor with a closet. The separate bedroom is roughly equal in size. Both have a small balcony.

The bathroom has been recently updated and is nice to look at with a free-standing tub and a sink with marble finishes.

However, it turned out to be a bit on the impractical side. The shower was right next to the tub, separated from the sink by a glass wall. Every time we took a shower, we had to take care that not the whole room became flooded. While we so far felt comfortable in this room, it was not exactly a memorable experience. Should you wish one, I think it would be better to opt for one of the luxury suites at Villa San Luigi.

Gourmet Escape Package 

Along with lodging, we had booked a special package called Gourmet Escape. While I had wrongly concluded that it includes a three-course dinner at the one-star Michelin Guido da Costigliole on both days, this was not so. There is only one dinner at the resort’s signature dining-spot plus a truffle hunting

as well as a wine tasting at their Hemingway Bar.

But that was no problem for us as this gave us the chance to try out their other restaurant, too. More info about dining and activities at Relais San Maurizio Piedmont follows later.

With regard to the pricing, it did cost us 863€/US$ per day in shoulder season, which I find appropriate.

Facilities

As mentioned, there is a wonderful, extensive park on site. One of the pleasures here is simply to stroll around and gaze in wonder at the old trees. Thanks to a special microclimate you find here a splendide example of a Lebanese cedar, fir trees, larches, beech trees along with local elms.

Otherwise, the facilities at Relais San Maurizio Piedmont are top notch. In the best location, there is a great outdoor pool with a 360-degree panoramic view across the gently rolling hills of the Moscato vineyards.

Then they offer a state-of-the-art spa including indoor pool, a hot tub, a steam room, thalasso therapy in the salt grotto and treatment rooms. Of course, there is a gym, too.

Furthermore, you find here two restaurants – a Michelin starred gourmet spot and a bistro – , a bar plus a cigar room. In addition, there is a myriad of other venues. My husband and I strolled through all the historic parlors with their frescoed ceilings, wondering about their purposes and enjoying their subdued atmosphere.

Activities

If you book the before described Gourmet Escape Package, you are treated not only to a foodie meal at the one-star Michelin Restaurant Guido da Costigliole but also to two great activities.

On the one hand, the bartender lets you taste three local Barbera wines along snacks and interesting winegrowing-related stories.

On the other hand, you are in for a truffle experience. An external provider picks you up at the hotel and brings you to a truffle farm where you go on a truffle hunt.

After work is done, they serve you some local snacks topped with truffles plus wine from the area.

As to other activities, there are electric bicycles to borrow. You can do horseback riding or playing tennis. And of course you can take walks in the beautiful vineyards of the Langhe region. If you are interested in top activities in the area, come back later and check out my suggestions. I will advise on two rewarding vineyard walks, amongst others in my next blogpost.

Dining in style at Relais San Maurizio Piedmont, north Italy

As you know by know, there are two dining venues on site, the Michelin starred Guido da Costigliole and the Origini Bistrot with traditional local dishes.

1. Guido da Costigliole, a one-star Michelin gourmet restaurant

The ancient monastery’s cellar and the terrace overlooking the vineyards

are rented out to Guido da Costigliole, a restaurant of long-standing tradition in the area. Andrea Alciati and his partner Monica Magnini run it enthusiastically, with chef Luca Zecchin in the kitchen. Andrea’s parents, Guido and Lidia Alciati, opened the Da Guido in Costigliole d’Asti in 1961. Soon it became one of the most famous restaurants in Piedmont.

Andrea Alciati continues many of his parents’ traditions at Relais San Maurizio Piedmont. For example, Lidia Alciati’s signature dish, Agnolotti al Plin, is still on offer here. Otherwise, you find modernly interpreted versions of classics and a few innovative creations on the menu.

On our visit, the weather was good enough for having dinner on the Monterosa terrace. We passed the open kitchen

where friendly staff greeted us and stepped on the wooden deck. In this outdoor restaurant with candle lanterns you have splendid views of the lightly rolling Langhe hills. And this is a spectacular setting indeed! You sit her in awe, enjoying a fine dinner and witnessing the beautiful sunset. Alternatively, if the weather does not permit it, you have dinner in the exposed-brick vaulted dining-room.

Three-course dinner at Restaurant Guido da Costigliole

As indicated, we were in for three courses as part of the Gourmet Escape Package we had booked. Upon sitting down, they placed a plate with delicious snacks in front of us.

We were also told that we could make a free choice of three courses from the menu. Of course, we wanted to try the mentioned house specialty, the Agnolotti al Plin.

They offer this filled pasta dish in two kinds of preparation. On the one hand, there is the classic al tovagliolo version. In an old Piedmontese tradition, the agnolotti are presented in a cloth napkin (tovagliolo) with no sauce to the household head. This in order to get an approval from this person before serving the pasta to all the people present. On the other hand, the agnolotti come with al sugo di arrosto, a sauce made from the drippings of roast meat. My husband and I decided to order the agnolotti with the sauce, which were absolutely fabulous. And imagine, they brought us a tasting of the first version, too.

For main, we had sturgeon with caviar and Mugnaia sauce, which is made from butter, flour and lemon.

For dessert, we had the restaurant’s take on Tiramisù.

The meal was delightful and so was the scenery, watching the sunset over the vineyards and the hills that surrounded us.

The setting at Origini Bistrot‘s outdoor area is a bit less spectacular compared to Guido da Costigliole’s terrace.

Notwithstanding that, it is a pleasant place to have dinner. Also the indoors are nice, a romantic old fresco room.

As to the food, the name says it all, they returned to their origins to rediscover original recipes.

Young Asti chef Romeo Morelli is at work at this bistro. He offers his guests traditional dishes using local produce and preparing them with care. My husband and I shared a starter, beef carpaccio,

and then opted for pasta. Mine was with pesto, his was with rabbit ragout.

For main, we both went for a meat dish. While I had lamb with aubergine jam and almond cream, my husband chose duck with pears and apricot chutney.

We ended the dinner with a creation made of chocolate, milk and hazelnut, which we shared amongst the both of us.

I would judge the food quality at Origini Bistrot as solid but unexceptional. There was not really anything to criticize, but nothing that stood out either.

Overall

Hotel Relais San Maurizio near Alba in the Piedmont wine region was the second stop of a journey through north Italy and south France that my husband and took in late summer. For the itinerary, have a look here. This luxury hotel, housed in an ancient monastery and surrounded by vineyards, offers a lot in terms of infrastructure. From two restaurants – one of them Michelin starred – and a great panoramic pool to an excellent spa and plenty of activity opportunities, everything is there. And on the premises, find also a splendid park with old trees, perfect for a stroll.

This hotel is ideally situated for exploring the Langhe wine region.

Find top things to do here, which all involve walking, in my next blogpost.

Looking back and forward

My husband and I came from Lake Orta in northern Italy, where we started our trip in Orta San Giulio (see what to do here).

We stayed at the fabulous Villa Crespi and dined at its two-star Michelin restaurant (my post).

After visiting the Moscato vineyards near Alba in the Piedmont region, we headed to Alassio on the Ligurian sea west of Genua (hotel/activities). Then we continued to the south of France, where we stayed at two different places (French Riviera hills – hotel, what to do – and Provence), before returning to Switzerland via a stop south of Lyon.

As to our travel style, staying and dining in style are top priorities for us – provided it is worth the expense. And we like to explore the area on foot whenever possible. For the 11-day itinerary of our Italy and France trip, have a look here.

Date of stay: August 2021

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