Luxury stay near Les Baux-de-Provence & what do in the area (if you like walking):

Upscale lodging and gourmet dining in the Provence are plentiful. If you feel like staying and dining in style here without overspending, it is much more difficult. A good choice in this regard is Hotel B Design & Spa in Paradou, close to the very touristy village of Les Baux-de-Provence. It is perfect for a laid-back luxurious escape with impressive guest rooms and Michelin dining at the in-house restaurant. And it is conveniently located for excursions in the area. Two great things to do are – among others – a walk to the aforementioned small town or a visit to nearby Saint-Rémy-de-Provence. I will come to that in detail later. Before, I will go into how it is staying and dining in style in the Provence at Hotel B Design & Spa.

First, a few lines to the Provence in general.

About the Provence

This region in the southeast of France is full of natural wonders and man-made attractions. In my humble opinion, it is one of the most beautiful places in this country. As to its boundaries, they are not really fixed. While some include the French Riviera (see my post about two top walks here), others do not. I would support the latter. On the west side, the Provence starts east of the Rhône river; then I would draw two lines, one north from Saint Tropez and one east of Orange. And the border on the northeast corner is where they meet.

If you wonder what is special about the Provence, I can tell you it is much about the sensual experience here. You come to this region in France’s southeast because of the lavender fields, the olive trees or the vineyards. Yet there are also the A-towns of Avignon, Arles and Aix or the mountainous regions just as the Luberon or the Alpilles. And there is more, the Verdon Gorge, France’s deepest canyon, or the Calanques National Park on the Mediterranean.

As to the best time to come here, it is either in spring or in fall. Do not come here in July and August as it is the busiest time with lots of French vacationers from the north. If you want to see the lavender fields, it is advisable to do so in the second half of June. Their peak is from early to mid-July, but then it is high season, too.

When my husband and I visited the Provence recently, after quite a few stays in different parts of this gorgeous region in the past, we stayed in the Alpilles.

About the Alpilles

The Alpilles can be translated as small Alps. It is a rocky limestone chain with low peaks and dry valleys about 25 km/16 mi south of Avignon. In terms of towns here, there are 16 of them. The most known are probably Les Baux-de-Provence and Saint-Rémy-de-Provence. All of them are part of the Parc Natural Regional des Alpilles (Nature Park of the Alpilles).

When it comes to activities here, there is much to do as to hiking or cycling. Yet there are also towns worth visiting, apart from the two already mentioned. Sadly, we did not have time to explore further. From what I read, Eygalières seems to be the most beautiful village here. And Mouriès is supposed to be the leading olive oil producer in France.

For our stay in the Alpilles we chose the village of Paradou. It is a charming town with about 2,000 inhabitants, between Avignons and Arles.

About our trip, where the stay in the Provence was part of

My husband and I travelled in 11 days through north Italy and south France (itinerary), starting and ending the trip in Switzerland. Our first destination was Piedmont, where we opted for a stay in the region’s north (hotel/activities) and one near Alba (accommodation/things to do). After one more stay on the Italian Riviera (lodging/what do do), we proceeded to the French Riviera (hotel/activities) before coming to the Provence. One more stop followed, south of Lyon.

Always when going on a trip, we are into staying and dining in style. And this was not any different on this one. But we only go for establishments where we think we get value for the money spent on them.

Staying and dining in style at Hotel B Design & Spa in Paradou

As you know by know, we opted for Hotel B Design & Spa in Paradou for our stay in the Provence. Find hereafter what do expect in terms of lodging and dining when coming here.

Location

As pointed out, the luxury hotel with gourmet restaurant is in the heart of the Nature Park of the Alpilles, and this in the village of Paradou. The hotel is close to the town center, you can reach it in a ten-minute walk. While it is a pleasant place with a historic core, there are not really many sights here worth the detour. Having said that, the main attraction in the area, Les Baux-de-Provence, one of the most beautiful villages in France, is in its immediate neighborhood (ten-minute drive). Alternatively, there is a rewarding walk that brings you in 1 ¼ hours to this stunning place. Details follow later on.

About Hotel B Design & Spa’s origin story

Hotel B Design & Spa is privately owned by the Bourguignon family, originally coming from Belgium. André and Nancy Bourguignon left their home country back in 1996 in search of a piece of land in the Provence to open their own hotel. André Bourguignon had been familiar with the hotel and restaurant industry since childhood. He was editor, journalist, restaurateur and hotel consultant, and now he wanted to be a hotel owner. The couple found the ideal location for their dream project in Paradou. In 1998, they opened their first hotel, the four-star Côte des Olivades,

a typical Provencal accommodation. André and Nancy’s daughter Vanessa is also involved in the family business, and this as hotel manager.

Nancy Bourguignon became chef at the hotel restaurant more or less by chance. On some occasion, there were hotel guests who wanted to have a late dinner. And this was at a time, where the chef had already left. Nancy had a leg of lamb in her refrigerator and decided to prepare it for the unexpected clientèle. It turned out to be a complete success! That was the start of her career as a chef. She learnt the job by doing. For some time, she also had an experienced chef at her side to learn from. And nowadays, her restaurant is listed in the Michelin guide!

Once the Hotel Côte des Olivades was established, André Bourguignon decided to build a second hotel, just right to the existing one. This was back in 2003, and it should be a modern five-star establishment. It was finally done in 2009, after some obstacles to overcome, under the lead of Parisian designer Christophe Pillet.

Ambiance/Staff

While the original hotel (Côte des Olivades) has more or less the typical look of a Mas Provencal, B Design & Spa is a contemporary building in a minimalist style. Although both hotels are separately run (two websites), they are somewhat linked to each other. The five-star B Design & Spa has neither a reception nor a restaurant. You have to go to the four-star Côte des Olivades for checking in and having breakfast. Having said that, the properties are separated (by doors to open with your room key) and feature their own outdoor pools.

Whereas the guest rooms at Hotel B Design & Spa are definitely on a five-star level (more to this latter in this post), the feel while checking in or having breakfast, is not so. Staff is friendly and helpful yet that certain something that comes with staying at a luxury lodging is missing. Nevertheless, we had a pleasant stay and would consider returning, especially for the great room we had.

Rooms/Pricing at Hotel B Design & Spa

On site you find 15 guest rooms. You can choose among four categories at Hotel B Design & Spa: Designer Room with Shower (24 sqm), Designer Room (48 sqm), Designer Suite (66 sqm) and Family Suite (88 sqm).

My husband and I opted for the Designer Suite, and we liked what we got.

These accommodations are expansive with a generous living area, a spacious bathroom

and a sizable balcony.

In terms of style, they are uncompromisingly modern, kept in white, grey and black.

The one thing I did not especially like was the south-facing balcony. While it was large (30 sqm), we could not use it in day-time because it was fully exposed to the sun. In addition, the view from here is unremarkable (quiet road, the one or other house through trees). It seems that the rooms directed to the north are more favorable as to views (hotel gardens, Alpilles mountain range).

With regard to the rates, we paid 640 € per day and room without breakfast. In case you want to include the latter, there is an extra charge of 50 € for two persons. Alternatively, you can book a half board arrangement (235 € for two). This entitles you to breakfast (cold and hot dishes) and three courses from a daily changing dinner menu at the Michelin listed Nancy Bourguignon Restaurant. If you should be interested in the dinner experience, please have a look at the section below.

Facilities at Hotel B Design & Spa

There is a 250 sqm spa on site featuring a fitness room, hammam, sensory pool and cold water foot path.

In addition, you find here two outdoor swimming pools, one on the premises of Hotel B Design & Spa,

the other in the adjoining Hotel Côte des Olivades. While the former is for the sole use of hotel guests at Hotel B Design & Spa, the other – which is larger – is for both hotels.

Furthermore, there are the lovely gardens with lots of hundred-year-old olive trees and other Mediterranean plants with the one or other contemplative place for a rest.

Restaurant Nancy Bourguignon

I already went into how chef Nancy Bourguignon happened to become a chef (About Hotel B Design & Spa’s origin story) and the half board option you can book here as hotel guest (Rooms/Pricing at Hotel B Design & Spa).

Restaurant Nancy Bourguignon is located at Hotel Côte des Olivades and features indoor

as well as outdoor dining.

On our stay, we were able to have dinner outside on both evenings. The setting is nice, with view of the gardens and the swimming pool. In my view, the tables are rather close together, but as we were seated at the edge of the place, we did not mind.

On offer here are well-made dishes that may be not overly creative yet made out of market-fresh ingredients. Everything that goes into them is carefully selected and locally sourced. You can make your choice from a small menu (4 to 5 starters, 3 mains, 3 desserts, 1 cheese). Restaurant Nancy Bourguignon is listed in the Michelin Guide and has 12 points in the Gault Millau Guide.

On both evenings, we were served a tasty soup as amuse-bouche.

Great starters were the foie gras or the mullet fish as sashimi with turnip, radishes and rhubarb.

As mains, the sole filets with a celery variation

or the semi-cooked Simmental beef with candid onions and beef jus knew to persuade. Desserts were superb, either the crispy Carambar variation (Carambar is a caramel candy, a known brand in France) or the soufflé Grand-Marnier.

Two top things to do in the Provence’s Nature Park of the Alpilles

1. Walk from Paradou to Les Baux-de-Provence

One of the must-do activities in the Provence is a trip to Les Baux-de-Provence. This medieval town between Arles and Avignon, sitting on a rocky spur, is quite a sight. It is considered to be one of the most beautiful villages in France and attracts more than 1.5 million visitors each year. It is advisable to come here in the low season and either early in the morning or late in the evening. If you drive here by car (8 min from Hotel B Design & Spa Paradou), be prepared to park it quite some distance away.

If you happen to stay in Paradou, I have a much better way to reach this stunning place than by car. Make a walk to Les Baux-de-Provence. By doing this, you have the chance to experience the beautiful landscape and the nature of the Alpilles. I found it amazing how lots of wild thym and rosemary bushes grow here. You can watch how Les Baux-de Provence comes closer to you. First, you cannot distinguish it from the rest of the mountains and later it materializes in front of you in its full size. And last but not least, you arrive in the village without the hassle of finding a parking lot. Here is how to to proceed.

Directions from Paradou to Les Baux-de-Provence by foot

Paradou – Nature Park of the Alpilles – Les Baux-de-Provence – Nature Park of the Alpilles – Paradou

Duration: 2 ¼ hours / Ascent: about 150 m/492 ft. / Lenght: about 7.4 km/4.6 mi, inspired by Outdooractive (outward/return)

Outward way (consult the outward map)

We started at our hotel, B Design & Spa in Paradou (marked on the maps from Outdooractive – see link above – as Du Côté des Olivades). Walk along Vieux Maussane until to the crossing with Avenue Jean-Marie Cornille. Take the latter in the left direction. On the next crossing, turn left into Mérigot de la Remise. Follow it until you reach Chemin de Bourgeac, turn right and cross the Canal de la Vallée des Baux. Almost immediately after this, turn right into the undergrowth. From here you follow the narrow path that goes up. It crosses a mountain chain, there is only a small gap that allows you to come to the other side.

When you reach a high plain where you can view the village of Les Baux-de-Provence the first time (it merges with the horizon), you turn right.

From here on, you have your aim in sight all the time. And you become aware how dramatic its setting really is! When you have a look at the Outdooractive map (outward), then you notice that it ends right before climbing up to Les Baux-de-Provence. My husband and I decided to go up from the western side (and returning via the eastern one). Walk on until you reach stairs leading up to the village.

Les Baux-de Provence

Once arrived by foot from Paradou, you start to appreciate its setting on a rocky outcrop even more. It is quite different to reach Les Baux-de-Provence not from the over-crowded parking lot but from further away.

Have a walk around the site.

As announced, high likelihood are that you are not on your own. Do not miss the relatively quiet corner of the Eglise Saint Vincent and the Chapelles des Pénitents Blanc.

Maybe also consider visiting the Château des Baux-de-Provencec (for a fee). A good place for a quick bite is Café Les Baux Jus with freshly squeezed juices and snacks.

Return way (consult the return map)

My husband and I left the village through its north gate by the tourist office and then went along Rue Porte Mage until the lower parking lot (where the roadside parking begins). After crossing it there is a dirt road going south below the village. After you have passed a group of houses, turn into the path on your left side. When you reach a crossing, take the dirt road to your right. On the next but one crossing, make a sharp turn to the left and follow the road.

After some time, you see a group of houses in front of you. Go left and immediately afterwards right again (the group of houses are on your left). You are now on Gaudre du Trible and have reached the golf course. Soon you get to Hotel Domaine de Manville. Pass it (it is on your left side) and follow Gaudre du Trible until the next crossing. Turn into Route des Baux on your left side and later into Avenue Jean Marie Cornille, also on the left hand side. On the next crossing, walk straight ahead until Vieux Maussane. Turn right and after a few steps, you are at Hotel B Design & Spa resp. Du Côté des Olivades again!

After these longish directions about walking to Les Baux-de-Provence from Paradou and back, here one more (brief) tip what to do in the area.

2. Visit the town of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence

A charming small town to go from Paradou is Saint-Rémy-de-Provence. You reach it in a 20-minute drive, when being on your way to Avignon. Before heading to the town center, stop at the Saint Paul de Mausole Monastery.

This is the mental health asylum where the famous painter Vincent Van Gogh spent a year shortly before his death.

Make a self-guided tour through the premises and do no leave out the gardens.

Afterwards, proceed to town and explore the lovely Saint-Rémy-de-Provence. Stroll through its narrow alleys that are lined with beautifully restored buildings. And make a stop one time or the other when catching sight of a scenic square

or a charming café,

which are plentiful.

Overall

In search of a place for staying and dining in style in the Provence, Hotel B Design & Spa in Paradou is a good choice. First, it is centrally located half way between two of the major towns in this region in south France, Avignon and Arles. Second, this premium lodging is close to one of the Provence’s hotspots, the historic rock village of Les Baux-de-Provence. If you like walking, you can even reach it by foot, and this is worth it!

As to how it is staying and dining at Hotel B Design & Spa, you have to know that the accommodation is rather a solid four-star than a five-star – however the rooms are super stylish. This is because it is associated with another accommodation, the first-class Hotel Du Côte des Olivades. Do not expect to be pampered here yet seriously good food is for sure.

Looking back and looking forward

Actually, the stay in the Provence was the last stop in the area my husband and I wanted to explore, north Italy and south France. But we preferred to make one more halt on our way back to Switzerland. And coming from the country’s south, Lyon and its surroundings is usually ideal for this purpose. So, we settled for the town of Vienne,

south of France’s second largest city. This because I had come upon a two-star Michelin restaurant with guest rooms here. Find more about this fabulous stay in my next and – at the same time – my last blogpost about this journey (itinerary).

Before coming to the Provence, we were in the French Riviera hills (hotel/things to do), the Italian Rivera (accommodation/activities) and in two spots in Piedmont, one in this region’s north (lodging/what to do) near Switzerland and the other in the wine region around Alba (hotel/activities). Everywhere we stopped, we strived for staying and dining in style, but only when we found that it was worth the cost.

Date of stay: September 2021

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