Premium hotel above South Tyrol’s capital of Bolzano with Michelin 2-star restaurant:

Yet again my husband and I made a find on our never-ending journey of chasing down Michelin stars. And this in a place we would have never dreamed of being successful in this mission. The restaurant (with premium hotel) is located in a remote spot in Sarentino valley in the Sarentino Alps. And imagine, you are here only a bit more than half an hour away from Bolzano, South Tyrol’s capital. This is about Hotel Terra The Magic Place, a Relais & Châteaux property, with its two-star Michelin Restaurant Terra. The name could not been more true! There is nothing far and wide, except a ski hut and this exceptional accommodation. Hotel Terra underwent a thorough renovation in recent years and offers high quality premises, boutique style.

Before I give you more information about Hotel Terra The Magic Place, first to the trip itinerary, from which this stay was part of. Precisely, it was the second stop after the nearby Merano, probably South Tyrol’s most popular town for vacationers.

Journey itinerary northern Italy and western Switzerland

Starting in Switzerland, our home country, we left for the Merano (Tirolo) area and afterwards to Bolzano’s further surroundings (Sarentino valley). After these two stops in Italiy’s most northeastern province of South Tyrol, we headed south, yet not too far. And this to Lake Garda. Here we had chosen a spot on its southwestern shore, the small town of Gardone Riviera (hotel/restaurants). This was our last destination in Italy before going back to Switzerland, precisely the Lake Geneva region. And here we had opted for Montreux. See also my overview post of this trip.

In case you should be interested rather in northwestern Italy, meaning Piedmont and Italian Riviera (plus south of France), here is another trip itinerary, undertaken in 2021. On both journeys, staying in luxury hotels and dining in Michelin (star) restaurants was important to us. But this only if prices for doing so were not excessive.

Now to our stay in the the Sarentino valley.

Staying in style at Hotel Terra The Magic Place Sarentino valley

Location

I already gave some hints as to this premium hotel’s situation (Sarentino valley in the Sarentino Alps above Bolzano in South Tyrol). In case you come from Bolzano in the south, you get to the valley’s capital of Sarentino in less than half an hour. From here you have to drive 15 more minutes on a narrow winding road to reach Hotel Terra The Magic Place. While there is not much traffic on this stretch of road, be prepared to face the one or other difficult situation when meeting oncoming cars!

If you should arrive from north, then you probably started in Austria. From Innsbruck you need about two hours to get here, crossing the Brenner pass. This is a mountain pass over the Alps, which forms the border between Italy and Austria.

While you are in Sarentino at 980 m/3,315 ft above sea level, Hotel Terra The Magic Place is much higher up, at 1,622 m/5,322 ft above sea level. Once at this spot (Prati/Auen), you are in the middle of nature. There is lots of forest around, it is hilly, and you have this fantastic view of the Dolomites mountain range, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Hotel Terra The Magic Place’s backstory

Johann Brugger, the grandfather of the sibling pair owning Hotel Terra The Magic Place, Gisela and Heinrich Schneider, laid the foundation stone for this property. He built the adjoining Sarner Ski Hut at the time when the ski trails were still trodden by foot. Resi, his oldest daughter (Gisela and Heinrich’s mother), got to know her future husband while helping out in this ski hut. Together they built up Hotel Auener Hof (former name of Hotel Terra), which was no easy thing as there was no electricity in the beginning.

The Schneider family loved fine food. And so they used to dine at gourmet restaurants when a special occasion arose. In 1998, Gisela and Heinrich took over the family business, when having finished their studies. They were young at the time (23 and 26 years old), and it was no easy undertaking. Their plan was it to transform the Auener Hof into a gourmet hotel. Heinrich, the chef, was very passionate about food. But he did not have much time to do internships and to learn from the masters. So, he went his own way (more about this later on).

In 2008, Heinrich Schneider got his first Michelin star, which was a big motivation for the Schneiders. Together with Gisela, responsible for the front of house, they aimed at new goals. Gisela’s partner, Karl Manfredi, joined them in the business, and they took the first step, the hotel’s renovation. In 2014, they became a member of the Relais & Châteaux hotel group. And in 2017, they got their second Michelin star! Shortly afterwards, the Auener Hof was renamed in Hotel Terra The Magic Place.

Ambiance/Service

When stepping foot in Hotel Terra The Magic Place, you are still under the impression of the somewhat difficult drive on that access road. And you still cannot believe that this place is real, a premium hotel with a two-star Michelin restaurant in this isolated spot! A modernist version of an Alpine chalet awaits you, wood in combination with large window fronts. And it feels boutique here.

Gisela Schneider awaited us behind the counter and ushered us right away to a seating area. Here she served us a welcome drink and home made crackers. And she asked us to fill in a form as to our wishes for breakfast. The offerings sounded promising, and we were already looking forward to this meal (do not miss the warm apple tart)! As to her person, she is friendly and helpful yet I found her to be quite understated. We found her brother, whom we talked to on our departure, to be more open.

Having said, we liked the vibe at the premises, be it at the restaurant or elsewhere. The atmosphere is laid-back and unpretentious. And every time when leaving our room, we encountered Gisela, either on her own or along with her husband and/or her brother. It is clearly a family affair at the Terra. Other staff we met, in particular two servers during dinner and the one or other chef appearing at our table, were all polite and professional.

Rooms/pricing at Hotel Terra The Magic Place

Ten room are at your disposal at this foodie hotel, all of them nicely furnished in a minimalistic style with lots of wood and decorated in natural hues. Out of these three are suites: Panorama Suite (the newest addition, 47 sqm & terrace 19.5 sqm), the Pine Studio Deluxe 46 sqm & terrace 25 sqm) and the Junior Suite (47 sqm & terrace 19.5 sqm).

When it comes to rooms, the Superior Room is actually the same as the Junior Suite, minus the additional room with a sofa bed (38 sqm & terrace 19.5 sqm). Then there is the Design Room (27 sqm) with access to a garden with two sun loungers at your disposal.

All the suites and rooms expect the Design Room category are south-facing, with views of the Dolomites, this stunning range of mountains, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Rates start at 340 € per room and night. In addition, there is a bunch of packages, starting from a one night stay to a five-night one. The least expensive price is 680 € and includes accommodation, breakfast and the Terra Experience Tasting Menu for two.

My husband and I went for the Junior Suite along with the Two-Night Romantic Getaway. Here is what to know about it.

Our choice of room & package: Junior Suite & 2-Night Romantic Getaway

As mentioned, 47 sqm await you plus 19.5 more on the the terrace. When booking, I had not realized that the second room (9 sqm) is not of much use for a couple. This space is not integrated in the main room but a separate bedroom for one to two children. It contains a sofa bed only and feels a bit claustrophobic. We actually entered the room only once, and this when checking it out on arrival. Opting for a Superior Room from the beginning would have been the smart move, as it is actually – as outlined – the same without the additional room.

The main room was spacious enough for the two of us. There is a small seating area plus a tiny desk with chair. What I liked much was the roomy walk-in closet and the generous terrace complete with table, two chairs and two sun loungers.

As to the bathroom, it is not huge yet adequately sized, coming with a large walk-in shower and double sinks.

In terms of package, the 2-Night Romantic Getaway includes two dinners in the Michelin-two star Restaurant Terra. On the first day you get a down to earth five-course dinner, on the second a creative ten-course tasting menu (Terra Experience). Also part of the package is a fabulous breakfast that you receive in a separate room adjoining the dining-room. And much appreciated by us, everything is served, no need to stand up and to help yourself from a buffet

Last but not least, a bottle of sparkling wine and a chocolate bar were laid out in our room on our arrival.

Other facilities/activities Hotel Terra The Magic Place

Apart from the main dining room and the breakfast restaurant there is not much as to public space. Adjoining the reception area is some kind of library/lounge.

And since recently, you find onsite a small but fine wellness area. It is located on the property’s top floor and is only open in the afternoon. There is a jacuzzi with views of the Dolomites mountain range, a Finnish sauna and a herbal steam bath plus a relaxation area. In addition, you can book an array of massages and other treatments. We did not go to the spa so I cannot provide any pictures. Yet it looks promising on the website.

What we did here, and which is THE thing to do here, is hiking. The most popular hike in the area is the one to the Stone Men (see also on the hotel’s website).

My husband and I followed the following trail (outdooractive). However, we did an additional loop to the Kreuzjoch (see my tracked trail, only the one back, on outdooractive). And it is well worth as you have a great panoramic vista from here.

After all these details about staying in style at Hotel Terra The Magic Place, now to what it offers with regard to dining in style. And this is impressive!

Dining in style at Restaurant Terra Sarentino valley

As you know so far, a Michelin two-star dining experience awaits you at Restaurant Terra. Before I dive into it, a few lines about the chef and its cuisine.

Chef/Cuisine

You have already learnt that the chef, Heinrich Schneider, did not do many internships at other restaurants. He does not have a mentor either. Instead, he describes himself as self-taught – although having done an apprenticeship as a chef. Yet, he rather took inspiration from his surroundings than from grand masters. His cuisine’s DNA is all about wild herbs and plants. And he uses those growing around the property, just as his mother did. He collects them himself, and he does this on his own. At some time in the past, he even did a training in this field, to get to know other, lesser known herbs.

As far as other ingredients are concerned, he tries to source locally whenever possible. He wants to offer his guests produce they cannot taste elsewhere. Yet, in case he thinks that for example caviar is necessary for a certain dish, then he does not shy away from using it. Although, he has to buy it from another region or even from abroad.

Dinner experience at Restaurant Terra

As I let you know, my husband and I dined twice at Restaurant Terra, on subsequent days (we had booked the 2-Night Romantic Getaway). So, we had two different experiences, one a bit more grounded, the other sophisticated.

Design

Before describing how it is dining here, some lines to the dining spot’s look. I was astonished to discover that the elegant dining-room is not only airy, but elegant and modern at the same time. You still have to consider we are here up in the mountains, in an off-the-beaten-path place. There are two prominent features that catches your eye. First, there is the suspended, glass-walled wine room above your heads, Gisela Schneider’s empire (she is a sommeliere too).

It is in competition with the huge picture windows providing a stunning view over the mountain world.

In addition, you find here an open kitchen where you can watch the chef working along his team. I have to say I was impressed by Terra’s appearance!

But that was not the only thing that made a lasting impact on us.

Day 1: The Chef’s Childhood Memories

We started our “gourmet dinner marathon” at Hotel Terra The Magic Place with the more down to earth experience. Having said that, it did not lack refinement.

The start made a praline of dried mushroom along with cornflower. From the very first moment, the chef makes clear what his cuisine is about, wild plants and herbs. Next, was the bread, rye and spelt sourdough bread along with local butter and spruce tree shoots oil. When doing research about the chef, I found out that he has an ambivalent relation to bread. He thinks that it is not a necessity when having a tasting meal. This because it can steal your appetite. And consequently, it may rob you out of the fun of fine dining. There is something about that!

We continued with carrot tartar, paired with cress and herbal salsa, followed by buckwheat risotto in unison with mountain cheese. Afterwards we got pasta – of course, we are in Italy. But it was not the usual one, precisely spaghetti made with yeast and egg, which results in a different taste. The accompanying herbs were waldmeister and yarrow.

The main course was braised meat, glazed ox cheeks with peas-mint cream. We ended with amaretti curd cheese dumplings, paired with apricots and basil ice-cream plus some petit fours. And this dish is clearly a reminiscence of South Tyrol’s past as part of Austria.

Day 2: The Terra Nature Experience

The second dinner at Hotel Terra The Magic Place was the turn of the whole shebang! The menu was written down on an overlong piece of paper, quite an event that was! Hence, I will not go into all the details of the meal. I will not always mention it, yet each and every dish contained at least one wild herb and/or plant. And I have to admit, many of them were unknown to me.

We warmed up with a variety of snacks, each of those an artwork in itself. And the whole was accompanied by dry ice mist, which is time and time again quite a sight. Next was a variation of the rainbow trout, followed by a trio of dishes without any apparent connection (at least to me). Among them, liquid cheese gnocchi. Then it was up to another Italian influenced course, a glazed “jumbo” ravioli with fresh herbs. It came with the same bread we had the day before.

The dinner continued with a fish dish, brook trout in burnt milk. Yet another ravioli was served, this time with beetroot and nettles. The last savory course was deer in two preparations, as praline and as saddle.

Ultimately, it was time for desserts. First, there was a white strawberry sphere along with a medley of cow parsley granita and spruce oil stones. The second one was also split in two. There was a cone filled with rye foam and wheat grass on the one hand. On the other hand, a composition made of verbana sorbet, raspberry, yoghurt, thyme and iced milk joined in. A small tea ceremony set the final point, consisting of herbal tea and an assortment of petit-fours.

How was it?

Not every day, you get the chance to dine at one and the same two-star Michelin restaurant two days in a row. To avoid a repetitive experience, it was essential that the two meals were totally different. And Heinrich Schneider managed this task very well. While one meal was rather on the rustic side – yet refined enough for a high-end dining spot – , the other one was culinary fireworks, for both eyes and palate. You well notice the chef’s love for his home, the mountains and their produce. The bounty of nature is really astonishing, all these edible items that are around. And he knows exactly how to incorporate them in his menus to achieve maximum effect.

All the courses we had were immaculately prepared and beautifully arranged. And the sometimes colorful herbs definitely helped to strengthen the impression. My favorite dishes were probably the “jumbo” ravioli and the desserts,

which were balanced tasting experiences. I already said a few words to ambiance and service above. To add to these, both evenings passed seamlessly, with everything perfectly orchestrated.

If I want to picky, then I would point out one thing that did not add up to me. And this is the second course in the menu “The Chef’s Childhood Memories” (first day). I cannot imagine that Heinrich Schneider was served carrot tartare as a child as this dish rather seems to be a “newfangled” one. While this is not utterly relevant, there was some other thing about it. The carrot tartar was the only course I was not a particular fan of. I found it quite heavy and the portion as too sizable. But otherwise, the chef’s performance was convincing. The gourmet dinners “in a double pack” at Hotel Terra The Magic Place delivered what they promised – and we enjoyed it!

Overall Hotel Terra The Magic Place

The total package at Hotel Terra The Magic Place in the remote Sarentino valley high above Bolzano, South Tyrol’s capital is amazing! If you are a nature and fine dining lover likewise, then I strongly recommend looking into this place. In case you like staying in style too plus you are into hiking in the mountains, I cannot think of a better spot than this boutique lodging. A two-star Michelin restaurant plus newly renovated premises await you here in the Sarentino Alps. Furthermore, an engaged and capable sibling pair is in charge here at Hotel Terra The Magic Place. She is the host, and he is the chef.

To top this already astonishing performance, you have the most remarkable view of the Dolomites mountain range, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, from here. Plus, in case you should be into records, Hotel Terra The Magic Place hosts the highest located Michelin star in whole Italy. In addition, the chef has his unique style when it comes to preparing and serving food. Grown up in the mountains and not having done lots of internships at other restaurants, he became THE connoisseur as to wild herbs and plants.

Looking back and forward

The stay at Hotel Terra The Magic Place is part of a mini-series about a trip to northeastern Italy and western Switzerland. It covers four stops in total, two in South Tyrol, one on Lake Garda and one on Lake Geneva. This very post went into the second destination. For the itinerary of this 14-day journey, check out my overview blogpost. Next on my blog you will find out about a four-day stay on Lake Garda, at the fabulous Grand Hotel Fasano in Gardone Riviera.

It is located on the southwestern shore of Italy’s largest lake, near the town of Salò. Expect information about where to stay and dine in style. And the latter concerns all the four restaurants in town that are included in the Michelin Guide.

Date of stay: September 2023

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