Luxury hotels & Michelin (starred) dining along the route:

Yet another road trip in north Italy and west Switzerland was on my husband’s and my agenda this late summer. And this after already doing one to Italy’s north (and France’s south) in 2021 (see my post). But this region in Italy has so much to offer in terms of great destinations, luxury hotels and Michelin (starred) dining spots. And contrary to our last journey, we went more east this time, to Trentino-South Tyrol and Lombardy. Before coming to details where we were headed (this and the last trip), some info on our travel focus. My husband and I like to travel in style. That means looking for high-end lodging and Michelin fine dining wherever we get to. Yet we attach great importance to not paying exorbitant prices.

Now to the itineraries as announced.

North Italy & west Switzerland 14-day road trip itinerary

For the itinerary of our last trip in the area, check out my correspondent post. It went to northern Italy and southern France in 11 days. As to the Italian part, we started in the Piedmont (Lake Orta and around Alba) and continued to the Italian Riviera (Alassio). After crossing the border to France, we headed first to Vence (French Riviera), then to the Provence (near Les Baux-de-Provence). The last stop before returning to Switzerland was in Vienne, south of Lyon.

This time, we began our journey in the Trentino-South Tyrol (Italian: Trentino-Alto Adige). Find here my Google Map of it.

Our first two destinations were in the South Tyrol. Dorf Tirol (Italian: Tirolo) above Meran (Italian: Merano)

made the start – not to be confused with the Austrian region of the same name! You might have already noticed it, the South Tyrol is bilingual (German and Italy), not so the Trentino. Next was the nearby Sarntal (Italian: Sarentino valley)

above Bozen (Italian: Bolzano). And the last stop in Italy were the Italian Lakes, precisely Lake Garda.

While its northern part is still in the Trentino-South Tyrol region, the place we went – Gardone Riviera (hotel/restaurants) – is already in the Lombardy (Italian: Lormbardia). The final destination of our trip was the Lake Geneva region, in the western part of Switzerland, exactly Glion/Montreux.

From place to place in north Italy & west Switzerland

As my husband and I like to travel in style – without losing sight of value for money -, we made sure to stay at upscale hotels and to dine at gourmet restaurants, preferably Michelin listed or starred places. This was not really a difficult thing to do as north Italy and west Switzerland has quite a choice for lovers of fine lodging and dining.

I always begin with a short description of the respective town/region and continue with providing some brief information on the high-end hotel we stayed and on the fine dining spot(s) we ate in this place. Sometimes, I will also mention some other places to stay and dine in style in the area that might be worth trying out.

1. Tirolo above Merano, Trentino-South Tyrol

1.1. About Tirolo

Tirolo is located above Merano, the hub here. As to the latter, it is small yet fine spa town in the heart of the South Tyrol. Actually, it is the second largest city in the South Tyrol (about 40,000 inhabitants). This medieval town has been a popular place to go since Empress Elisabeth of Austria (Sissi) started coming here. And she did this especially because of its spa and its almost Mediterranean climate. Lots of buildings, parks and promenades stem from this time.

And if you like walking, Merano and its surroundings is known for its abundance of Waalwege, trails alongs irrigation canals.

As far as Tirolo is concerned, it also is steeped in culture and history. You find here and around it some notable castles, fortresses and churches, from which the Tyrol Castle is the most prominent. Otherwise, the small village (about 2,500 inhabitants) draws lots of vacationeers in search of sun, panoramic vistas and hiking opportunities.

You can reach Merano from here in a short drive either by car or by bus. There is also a chairlift connecting these two places.

1.2. Which hotel to choose as demanding guest in Tirolo

There is a huge selection of luxury hotels in the Merano area to choose from. After having stayed here several times in the past, I have identified two of the best (see also my correspondent post). While we tried out a “new one” on our last stay, this time we returned to the one we knew from two previous stays. And I have to say that this luxury hotel is hard to beat! The latest renovation (2021) made it a state-of-the-art property with all the amenities you can think of. It is about Hotel Castel in Tirolo. It also hosts the one and only two-star Michelin restaurant in the Merano region. A post to come will go into more details of this stunning lodging.

1.3. Where to go for great Michelin listed (starred) restaurants in Tirolo

I just mentioned it, you do not have to leave your hotel in case you stay at the Castel in Tirolo when looking for best fine dining in the area. This is because the top place in this respect is on site. It is about Restaurant Castel Fine Dining, a Michelin two-starred establishment, and this since 2010 (formerly Trenkerstube).

When being a hotel guest at Hotel Castel, you are on half board – there is no other noteworthy (Michelin) fine dining in Tirolo anyway. And this arrangement allows you to enjoy exquisite food without even visiting the mentioned Michelin starred Restaurant Castel Fine Dining.

Notwithstanding that, when being a fine food lover, I highly recommend dining here once during your stay. This gives you not only the opportunity to indulge in chef Gerhard Wieser’s signature dishes but also to check out one of the most beautiful dining rooms I have ever encountered (only five tables and all have this tremendous view of Merano from high above). More about dining at Hotel Castel and at Restaurant Castel Fine Dining follows in the above mentioned future post.

2. Sarentino valley above Bolzano, Trentino-South Tyrol

2.1. About the Sarentino valley

The Sarentino valley stretches northwards from Bolzano, South Tyrol’s capital and its largest city (about 110,000 inhabitants). When coming from Merano, I recommend to make a short stop in Bolzano to check out its beautiful old town.

This especially given the fact that you only need about one hour for your drive from Merano to the hamlet above Sarnthein (Sarentino), the valley’s capital, where our choice of hotel is located. Bolzano – as Merano – was influenced by Germanic and Italian currents, yet I personally find that it feels more Italian than Merano.

Just a few kilometers/miles away from the bustling regional center of Bolzano you reach the idyllic village of Sarentino (2,300 inhabitants). This is another world, full of wild nature and far off the beaten track. And the area is great for hiking with a view. A great panoramic vista awaits you – among others the entire spectrum of the Dolomites, a UNESCO world natural heritage.

While you are in the village of Sarentino at 980 m/3,315 ft above sea level, you have to climb further  up in order to come to Prati/Auen where you find the hotel I am going to inform you about. And the road to it is narrow!

2.2. Where to stay in the Sarentino valley as discerning traveler

First and foremost, there is one place in the area that makes people loving the finer things in life to come here. And this is Hotel Terra The Magic Place! Once you have the before mentioned narrow road behind you, you made it to this remote spot at 1,622 m/5,322 ft above sea level. There are a public parking lot (for hikers), a ski hut and this amazing hotel you would not think finding here. It is a Relais & Châteaux property that has seen several renovations and expansions since 2010, a true gem surrounded by unspoiled nature. And imagine it not only offers immaculate lodging but also a two-star Michelin dining-spot! If you want to know more about this place, one of my next blogpost will go into it.

In case you are looking for prime lodging around the village of Sarentino

and nearer to Bolzano, Hotel Bad Schoergau might be a good option too. I have not been here but I liked what I saw when checking it out on the internet.

2.3. Where to dine in style in the Sarentino valley

What draws hard-core foodies to the Sarentino valley, is of course the mentioned Michelin two-starred Restaurant Terra at Hotel Terra The Magic Place high above the village of Sarentino. You will find more info about it in my post about the hotel in question soon on my blog.

Yet there is more of fine dining in the village of Sarentino. On the one hand, it is about the Michelin listed dining spot at the already highlighted Hotel Bad Schoergau, the Ristorante Alpes/La FuGa. On the other hand, you find a Michelin eatery in town too, Restaurant Braunwirt. I have not dined at either of them, so I cannot comment, but the reviews are good.

3. Gardone Riviera on Lake Garda, Lombardy

3.1. About Gardone Riviera

Before coming to the town of Gardone Riviera, a few words about Lake Garda. It is one of the Italian Lakes, a group of larges lakes on the south side of the Alps, all of them glacial ones. And Lake Garda is not only the largest of them but also in whole Italy. On its western shore, you find the Lemon Riviera – from Salò to Limone. This stretch along the lake has a mild, Mediterranean-like climate, so even citrus fruits grow here.

As to Gardone Riviera – on the Lemon Riviera – , it is favorably located for many sights. Not only boasts it some important ones on site – Il Vittoriale degli Italiani (a Gesamtkunstwerk of house, monument and fantasy)

or the Heller Botanical Garden,

it is close to many others. I mention here for example Salò, the region’s town with the nicest Lungolago (lakeside promenade)

or Sirmione, THE tourist attraction in the area (expect masses of people here) with the Scaliger Castle (an extraordinary lakeside fortification)

or the Grottoes of Catullus (a striking example of a Roman villa, now in ruins).

While Gardone Riviera is not large (it only has a bit more than 2,500 inhabitants), it has everything that makes a real place – a nice Lungolago, a small old quarter by the lake, an old town on the hillside. And its laid-back ambiance is a plus too. And it is even considered as one of the most beautiful villages in Italy (part of I Borghi più Belli d’Italia).

3.2. Which luxury hotel to choose in Gardone Riviera

You find quite a number of upscale hotels in Gardone Riviera. Many of them are late 19th, early 20th century properties. Some line the lake front, others are located hillside, overlooking the lake. At the end, we had fluctuated between Hotel Bella Riva and Grand Hotel Fasano. Finally, we decided for the latter, and this for various reasons. First, it is a wonderful old building in a stately park among ancient trees, frontally facing the lake. Second, it is closer to the town center. Third, it has a Michelin listed restaurant on site.

And we were not disappointed by our choice. It is such a beautiful property, a fantastic example of neoclassical style architecture. The building was constructed in 1888 as a hunting lodge for the Austrian imperial family. And it was declared a National Heritage Site by the Ministry of Cultural Heritage. The Fasano, part of the Leading Hotels of the World, also underwent some renovations recently. So, we enjoyed among other things an updated guest room with a great lake view. If you should be interested in more information about this accommodation, I will provide some in a post to come.

3.3. Where to go a fine dining lover in Gardone Riviera

I already let you know that Grand Hotel Fasano hosts a Michelin listed restaurant. It is about Restaurant Il Fagiano, helmed by a Michelin one-star chef.

But there is more around for gourmets! If you are a hard-core foodie, try to get a booking at Restaurant Lido 84.

This beautifully located restaurant right on the lake has a Michelin star plus it ranks No 7 on the list of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants.

And there are two more Michelin restaurants in this picturesque lakeside town. On the one hand, you find here Restaurant Fiordaliso at the Hotel of the same name. Again, it has this stunning location at the water’s edge.

On the other hand, Gardone Riviera’s scenic old town also features an awarded dining-spot. It is about Osteria Antico Brolo in a rustic 18th century building.

All the restaurants I just mentioned can be reached by foot from Grand Hotel Fasano. While Restaurant Lido 84 and Restaurant Fiordaliso are very close, Osteria Antico Brolo is a bit further away, you get here in about a 15 minute walk. You will find out about how it is dining at all these four dining spots in a future post, along with the lodging experience at Grand Hotel Fasano.

4. Glion above Montreux on Lake Geneva

4.1. About Glion/Montreux & where to stay here in style

I will not go into details here as I have already informed about this topic in a previous post. If you want to know more about the Lake Geneva region, especially about the Montreux Riviera and Lausanne, have a look here. As far as our lodging in Glion is concerned, we returned to one we already had stayed at back in 2021. Find here the hotel review of Hotel and Restaurant Victoria.

4.2. Michelin starred dining in Montreux area

In addition to dining at the hotel restaurant again (see above), we tried out two more dining-spots. Both of them are awarded with a Michelin star. It is about one in Glion itself, the other in another village above Montreux. The first is Restaurant Le Pont de Brent in Brent (UPADATE: out of business in November 2023).

You can reach it in a ten-minute drive (best by taxi or Uber) from Hotel Victoria. The other is Maison Décotterd, only a few minutes away by foot from this accommdation.

A post to follow will give you an impression of how it is dining at these two gourmet temples.

What is next about north Italy & west Switzerland

I already let you know, I do not want to leave it at the itinerary and some short remarks as to our north Italy & west Switzerland 14 day-trip in style. I want to delve deeper and let you know how it was in every single place. The start makes the Merano area, followed by the Sarentino valley, both in the South Tyrol. I continue with the Lake Garda region, and this with the southwestern part, also called Lemon Riviera (hotel/restaurants). And the end sets an area in western Switzerland. And this is Montreux on Lake Geneva.

After having made the one or two bits of information on the respective places in general (what to expect as a traveler here), I will not offer more details in this regard. Instead, I will put a focus on the upscale hotels we stayed and the Michelin restaurants we dined. Actually, all the dining spots we visited on this journey through north Italy and west Switzerland are listed in the Michelin Guide except one (Restaurant Victoria Glion). Six of them even are Michelin-starred, that means we “collected” eight Michelin stars in total!

I will publish a post for each place. Consequently, there will be following four more blogposts on this topic:

• Hotel Castel in Tirolo/South Tyrol with two-star Michelin Restaurant Castel Fine Dining,
• Hotel Terra in the Sarentino valley/South Tyrol with two-star Michelin Restaurant Terra,
• Grand Hotel Fasano in Gardone Riviera/Lake Garda with Michelin starred Restaurant Il Fagiano plus three more foodie spots in town,
• two one-star Michelin restaurants in Montreux/Lake Geneva.

Date of stay: September 2023

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