Staying & dining in style at Villa Crespi on Lake Orta/Italy
Historic rooms at boutique luxury hotel & two-star Michelin restaurant in Italy’s Lake District:
UPDATE: Villa Crespi Restaurant received its third Michelin star in November 2022!
Hotel Villa Crespi truly is an eye-catcher! Its Moorish styled building is unique and its location on peaceful Lake Orta in northern Italy is idyllic. The 14-room luxury hotel with its two-star Michelin restaurant can convince discerning travelers and demanding foodies likewise! And the staff here is incredible. Whenever you show up in the reception area, you can be sure of their gracious assistance. And Villa Crespi Lake Orta is located in the stunning village of Orta San Giulio, one of the most beautiful ones in Italy.
Find in the following how it is staying and dining at this gem of accommodation in the country’s Lake District near to the Swiss border. Before coming to this, a few lines to the recent road trip through the north of Italy and the south of France that my husband and I did – where this stay at Villa Crespi Lake Orta was the start.
Trip itinerary northern Italy & southern France
Starting in Switzerland, our home country, we visited parts of northern Italy and southern France. As you know by now, we began in the Lake Orta region near Switzerland before moving to the Piedmont’s heart. The next stop was the Ligurian coast west of Genua before crossing the boarder to France. Here we stayed at two spots in the Côte d’Azur/Provence area. Before returning, we also made a halt south of Lyon, one of France’s major cities.
Always when traveling, we like to do this in style. We pick out the best luxury lodging and gourmet dining whenever possible, but only if they are worth the money spent. And we like to explore an area by foot yet we are not hard-core hikers. As to our recent Italy and French trip, you find the 11-day itinerary here (in my overview blogpost).
Now to Villa Crespi Lake Orta, where all began …
Staying in style at Villa Crespi Lake Orta, northern Italy
Location
I already gave some hints as to the luxury hotel’s situation (Italy’s Lake District in the country’s north on Lake Orta). It is located south of the Alps and north of the Po river plain. Here you encounter a group of large cold mountain lakes – actually glacial ones. The Italian Lakes region features a sub-Mediterranean climate with mild temperatures and fairly sunny weather all year round. And imagine, it has been a preferred travel destination since Roman times!
Lake Orta is one of the smaller and lesser known lakes in the area. I would not exactly call it a hidden gem, but almost. It definitely is off the beaten path by international travelers. However, it is quite popular with Italians, especially the Milanesi. And how to reach it? From Switzerland, you get to it in 1h 11min from Locarno and in 1h 18min from Lugano by car. Train and bus are no viable options here. From Milan/Italy you need 1h 4min by car (from the international airport Milan-Malpensa only 49min) and 2h 29min by train (change trains in Novara).
As to the situation on site, Villa Crespi Lake Orta is located just above the historic village center of Orta San Giulio. As pointed out, this is an extraordinarily beautiful place. From the hotel you have twelve minutes by foot to the main piazza, which is not accessible by car. Please take into account that Villa Crespi is not directly on the lake. As to views, best ones are toward the lake of course, but you do not see much of it as the area is overgrown by trees. The rooms with lake view are also the quietest ones, given the fact that the hotel is quite close to a busy road.
History of Villa Crespi Lake Orta
You know by now that Villa Crespi was constructed in the Moorish style. A local businessman, Cristoforo Benigno Crespi, had become rich in the cotton industry. In 1879, he asked an architect from the area to build his new family home. On his business trips to the Middle East he had fallen in love with the local architecture. Therefore, the successful entrepreneur wanted to have a villa that made him remember this kind of style. The commissioned architect, Angelo Colla, was given free rein to create a building in this sense. And the result was – after 30 years of construction – an eclectic Moorish treasure!
Villa Crespi Lake Orta is for sure a unique piece of art. You can not help but be fascinated by the domes of intertwined arches, the arabesque decorations of stucco and molded plasters, the marble columns …
The villa has seen different owners over time. In 1999, Cinzia and Antonino Cannavacciuolo took over and turned this fairytale gem into a luxury hotel and gourmet temple. Since 2012, Villa Crespi has been a member of the prestigious Relais & Château hotel group.
Ambiance/Service
We loved being at the Villa Crespi because we were well taken care of here. Upon arrival, we were amiably welcomed by the doorman/concierge. The reception by the other staff at the desk was also utterly warm. And this despite the fact that it was Friday lunch time and the house full of restaurant guests!
As I already let you know in the introduction, every time we appeared in the reception area we were treated like royalty. Furthermore, the atmosphere here is very Italian. On our two-day stay, there were lots of Italian guests, quite in contrast to the rest of our trip where we met many foreign travelers at the hotels of our choice.
There is one more thing that stood out. We had a package booked here (more later on), and we did tell the hotel before our arrival that we would not do one of the activities included. And to our astonishment, they reimbursed it. We had not expected such a generous gesture!
Also the service in the restaurant knew to persuade. Staff was cordial, attentive and informative. Having said this, there was one issue to mention that I consider as “typically Italian”.
The “Italian way”
Always when being in Italy, I have the feeling that foreigners are “second class guests”, more than in any other countries. It was the same thing here, although it was not too pronounced. I tend to be a bit on the sensitive side at times …
You must know that there are several dining rooms. There is the “signature place” where they give preference to local regulars, I assume.
We had dinner at Villa Crespi twice (on a weekend) and were not seated here. Yet we also did not ask for it … To this dining room in question, there is a row of tables, each with its own window that can be opened individually. And it is directed towards the lake, albeit there is not much of a lake view. “Our” dining room was not bad at all. We liked dining here, but I could not help noticing the difference!
Rooms/Pricing Villa Crespi Lake Orta
Each of the 14 rooms at Villa Crespi Lake Orta have splendid parquet floors and elegant 19th century furniture. And of course they feature the one or other arabesque touch (windows and doors). The bathrooms are clad in marble. While the lower floors have larger rooms, the ones on the upper floors are smaller (former staff accommodations).
Rooms vary in size (some are in the former servants’ quarters), but all seem to be comfortable and attractive. First to the suites, which all have views of garden and lake, except the Junior Suites (garden view). The most expensive ones are the two Master Suites, both 51 sqm in size, starting from 806 SFR/US$. Then you have two Premium Suites, 47 sqm each, that cost from 774 SFR/US$. Two more suites are available, the Executive Suites, with a surface of 38 sqm, bookable from 699 SFR/US$. To end the suite category, there are two Junior Suites, covering 29 sqm, available from 537 SFR/US$.
As to the rooms, there are two categories, the Deluxe Rooms (2 units, garden view) and the Classic Rooms (4 units, partial lake view). The former, 26 sqm in size, starts from 430 SFR/US$, the latter, 24 sqm, costs from 376 SFR/US$.
On the time of our booking there were only two rooms available, one of the larger suites and one Deluxe Room. We opted for the latter but decided to splurge on dining instead. Before coming to the food, some details to our room and to the other facilities on site.
Deluxe Room
Our room was the one called Isdihar, decorated with imperial red silk. It is located on the second floor with view of the gardens. While this accommodation is not overly large (26 sqm), it is cleverly furnished.
We never had the impression to house in cramped spaces. The bathroom is quite spacious and features a window. However, the shower is a bit on the small side.
The Isdihar room is directed towards south-east, meaning parallel to the busy road from Domodossola to Novara. While it is not directly situated next to the hotel, you clearly hear the passing trucks and motorbikes. There is air-conditioning, albeit not a very effective one. Therefore, my husband and I slept with open windows, which was perfect for us at the time. However, it might not be an option in the hot season.
A delightful breakfast – served in the outdoor restaurant on our stay – is included in the rate.
And every day, a small sweet treat awaits you in the room.
Other facilities/Sister hotel Laqua
Villa Crespi Lake Orta is a place for those who are into dining and staying in style. And it is a great destination to explore the wonderful village of Orta San Giulio and the Lake Orta area. However, you probably will not be satisfied in case you are looking for state-of-the-art facilities. After all, it is a boutique property and does not feature that many amenities. There is a bar,
a wellness suite and gardens with some sun loungers,
that is it.
There is no swimming pool, fitness room or lake access. If you want to swim in the lake, there is public lake access nearby. All in all, come here if you want to enjoy the hotel’s excellent cuisine and beautiful surroundings.
If you care being by the water, consider staying at the new sister hotel Laqua by the Lake (as from July 2021), 3 km/1.9 mi from Villa Crespi. Here you find a pool and a beach club as well as a restaurant along with 18 apartments.
Packages
You can make use of a variety of packages here, either for one, two or three nights. My husband and I opted for the two-night package “Lovers of good food”, which was great. Find more info in the next chapter.
Some of the special offers include one or several dinners at the Villa Crespi or also at the chef’s new bistro Laqua by the Lake, five minutes away by car. You may attend a cooking experience with the brigade of Villa Crespi or get treated to a wellness treatment, too. The choice is yours!
Dining in style at Restaurant Villa Crespi Lake Orta, northern Italy
Before coming to our dining experience at chef Antonino Cannavacciuolo’s two-star Michelin restaurant, some details to the “Lovers of good food” package that my husband and I had booked for our stay at Villa Crespi Lake Orta. And there will also be some info about the chef and his cuisine. As to the dining facilities, I have already looked into it under the section of The “Italian way”.
Package “Lovers of good food”
These two-night package includes the room of your choice, the à la carte breakfast, a glass of Prosecco on arrival
and two dinners at the chef’s two-star Michelin restaurant. One one evening, you get the Carpe Diem tasting menu (six courses, 170 €/per person). On the other evening, you are served the South to North of Italy tasting menu (7 courses, 200 €/per person). Furthermore, you may visit the kitchen once after your dinner. Finally, a visit to a nearby cellar plus wine tasting is part of the package (30 minutes away, private transfer included).
This arrangement did cost 1,999 € for two days, and this at a Deluxe Room (the second least expensive room category). But they were so kind to reduce the amount by 100 € as we had informed them well in advance that we would not do the cellar visit. This package is no bargain, but there is nothing wrong with the pricing. It is absolutely worth spending if you are a foodie!
Chef
The chef, Antonino Cannavacciuolo, is a native from the area around Naples in southern Italy. More precisely, he was born and grew up in the heart of the Sorrento Peninsula, in Ticciano, in a hamlet in the hills close to Vico Equense. His father was a chef, and little Antonino never wanted to be something other than a chef too.
He studied at the catering college in Vico Equense, where his father was a tutor. After finishing it, he gained experience at local restaurants where he cooked the traditional food from the region. Later, he worked at the famous Auberge de I’Ill in eastern France under the aegis of Paul Haeberlin. Back in his homeland, he spent some time at Grand Hotel Quisisana in Capri.
Then he went to northern Italy to work at a hotel restaurant in the Lake Orta region. That is where he met his future wife, Cinzia, the daughter of the hotel’s owners. And he has been here ever since, as from 1999 at Villa Crespi Lake Orta.
Cuisine
While Antonino Cannavacciuolo is deeply rooted in his beloved Neapolitan territory in his cooking, he also began to integrate the traditions of the Piedmont, his adopted homeland. He describes his cuisine as a fusion of his past and his present, of the south and the north. He does not consider himself as an innovator but he strives to bring the flavors of tradition in a new form. Yet he tries to do this without losing sight of neither the old nor the new.
In 2003, chef Antonino was awarded his first Michelin star, the second followed in 2006. And he also became a celebrity master chef on the Italian television. In addition, he opened several other restaurants and shops in northern Italy, amongst them Bistrot Cannavacciuolo in Turin, where my husband and I dined in 2019 (here my post).
After this information on chef and cuisine, now to how it was dining at Villa Crespi Lake Orta.
Dinner experience at Villa Crespi Lake Orta
Here are my highlights of the two tastings menus my husband and I had at Restaurant Villa Crespi Lake Orta. For the sake of clarity, I restrain myself to three courses each.
Before coming to the actual courses, here are pictures from the snacks that started the meal
and the petit fours
that ended the culinary journey on both evenings. They were among the most delicious I have ever tasted. It was just a pity that the sweet end was a bit on the large side. I was not able to eat all of the delicacies, neither on day one nor on day two, to my regret.
1. Carpe Diem tasting menu (six courses, 170 €/per person)
After an amuse bouche we were served breaded amberjack fish with watercress and strawberries. This actually was a roll filled with raw fish aromatized with vegetable and fruit, a successful pairing.
Right afterwards it was time for pasta. Plin, small filled pasta (agnolotti, similar to ravioli), were combined with duck. The filling consisted of duck, and there was foie-gras soup to accompany it. Buffalo milk and some subtle raspberry flavor made it complete. This dish was an absolute hit, each element balanced each other out perfectly!
Next was the main, you could make a choice between turbot or suckling pig. We went for the fish, which was nice but the combination with shellfish made it not a favorite of mine.
Then it was time for sweets … The start made a pre dessert, ice cream on a stick. This was followed by a deconstructed Pastiera Napoletana. This is a a Neapolitan tart made with cooked wheat (grano cotto), ricotta cheese, eggs and flavored with orange flower water, which is typically served on Easter. What an amazing combination of tastes, textures and flavors!
2. South to North of Italy tasting menu (7 courses, 200 €/per person)
This is Antonino Cannavacciuolo’s signature menu where he brings the two Italian regions of Piedmont and Campania together.
First came an amuse bouche, then one of the chef’s famous creations, Sicilian scampi “pizzaiola” style with octopus water. This was an eye-catcher and a gourmet treat likewise.
And the pasta course was out–of–this–world amazing again! Gragnano’s linguine – simply the best pasta, made near Naples – were paired with squid and rye bread sauce. Every single bit was scrumptious and made my tastebuds sing. The server explained to us that they cook the pasta only half and then add spoonfuls of sauce little by little (similar to a risotto).
Next was the fish course. It equally pleased the eye and the stomach. It was a perfect blend of red mullet, zucchine alla Scapece and Provola cheese broth. If you wonder about the “Scapece”, this is a typical Neapolitan dish. You fry zucchini first and then marinate them with a mix of vinegar, garlic and fresh mint.
The main course was pigeon, the chef’s star ingredient. While it was of immaculate quality and preparation, the course was a bit too “meat dominated” in my opinion – and I was pretty full at that time.
The feast was rounded up with a chocolate ball, gold decorated, followed by the chef’s version of panna cotta.
After the meal my husband and I were allowed for a visit to the spacious kitchen in the villa’s basement. What a great thing to experience the hustle and bustle here with 20 to 22 chefs at work – although I did not catch sight of chef Antonino himself!
Overall
My husband and I began our late summer trip (see overview post) in Orta San Giulio in the Lake Orta region in Italy’s Lake District in the country’s north. You reach the beautiful village in a bit more than an hour by car either from Locarno/Lugano in Switzerland or from Milan.
We came here to get to know a region that was new to us. At the same time, we wanted to try out Villa Crespi Lake Orta, a luxury hotel and foodie paradise (two-star Michelin cuisine). And we fell in love with both, the area and the lodging! We not only had a unique experience in an atmosphere reminiscent of a Thousand and One Nights (the hotel is kept in the Moorish style), but also enjoyed superlative gastronomy.
And the village of Orta San Giulio is a real gem, find out more about in my next blogpost!
Looking forward
Our plan for this journey was exploring some regions in northern Italy and southern France (see itinerary outline). Some of them we already knew, others were new territory for us. We had staying and dining in style in mind, as always when traveling. And we wanted to explore the areas by walking whenever possible.
Soon on my blog you will find what to do in Orta San Giulio. Then I will go into our choice of accommodation and restaurant in the heart of the Piedmont, a luxury hotel with a Michelin starred restaurant near Alba, the truffle capital (my post).
Date of stay: August 2021
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