Excellently managed luxury hotel with Germany’s best restaurant, the 3-star Michelin Schwarzwaldstube:

This is for sure one of Germany’s top hotels, the 5-star Hotel Traube Tonbach in the rural surroundings of the Black Forest, in the country’s south. My husband and I have stayed here recently, and this for the third time already. And it is a great choice not only for foodies – their restaurants feature four Michelin stars in total – , but also ideal for active travelers. As the Traube Tonbach is located in the Black Forest, it is especially geared to hiking. But it does not stop here! One of the best things at this hotel with history – it goes back to 1789 – is its exemplary hospitality. The Finkbeiner Family, owners since the very beginning, does everything to make their guests comfortable.

After this short overview, I would like to go more into details to bring this excellent hotel closer to you. I start with some information on this place’s back story.

Hotel Traube Tonbach’s backstory

I find it fascinating that Traube Tonbach has been in the hands of the same family since its early days. And this is about the Finkbeiners. It was in the year of 1789 when Tobias Finkbeiner opened a tavern called Bauernstube for thirsty charcoal burners and lumberjacks. And imagine, this dining room still existed until it burnt down in 2020. More to this drastic incident later on …

The first steps

Over the years, lots of changes happened. Here to the most important ones. In 1920, first guests were hosted over night. In 1957, Willi Finkbeiner opened a new guesthouse, the first wing of today’s main house, with 64 beds. It was one of the first inns in the area featuring a bathroom and a balcony.

The birth of a gourmet temple

In 1977, the Finkbeiner Family launched a new restaurant, the Schwarzwaldstube. It soon became a magnet for lovers of fine dining, in particular since Harald Wohlfahrt took over as head chef in 1980 (he started 1978 as sous chef). One of the many highlights in his career at Hotel Traube Tonbach was certainly when Michelin awarded three stars to Restaurant Schwarzwaldstube in 1992.

After 40 long years at the Schwarzwaldstube, Harald Wohlfahrt met an unpleasant end in 2017. This was when an out-of-court settlement was reached between him and the Finkbeiner Family as to his departure. It was rumored that he had not been content with his job as a culinary director when Torsten Michel took over as head chef at Schwarzwaldstube in 2016. This handover had apparently already been fixed years ago. As silence about the mentioned settlement was agreed, one does not know for sure what really happened. Be it as it may, Torsten Michel was able to carry on the legacy of the successful Schwarzwaldstube. Find details about it in a section to come in this blogpost.

Traube Tonbach under the current management

Heiner Finkbeiner took the helm of Hotel Traube Tonbach in 1993, and this as 7th generation of the Finkbeiner Family. Together with his wife Renate he advanced this hospitality company into the next century. In 2009, they were joined by their sons, Matthias and Sebastian Finkbeiner, who started to work in the management of the Hotel Traube Tonbach.

Renovation of Haus Kohlwald

An important milestone in recent times was certainly the complete refurbishment of Haus Kohlwald (in 2012), the dependance opposite the main house. Of the 41 double and single rooms only 22 double rooms and apartments plus one suite remained. The renovated Haus Kohlwald presents itself now as as timeless, Black Forest inspired building with contemporarily styled accommodations.

Original inn destroyed by fire

The devastating fire that destroyed the original ancestral inn also fell in Heiner Finkbeiner’s time. The building from 1789 housing the famous three-star Michelin Restaurant Schwarzwaldstube, the Restaurant Koehlerstube and the Restaurant Bauernstube became a victim of a fire because of a technical defect. This took place in January 2020. Gone with the fire were also the Michelin stars – they are always linked to the restaurants and not to the chefs!

A temporary home for these three dining spots was constructed in record time, called “Temporaire”, opened in May 2020. And also the Michelin stars came back with these interim restaurants!

In April 2022, the newly constructed “restaurants house” opened its door. While the Schwarzwaldstube got its previous space with a view, the two other dining spots experienced concept changes. Now the Koehlerstube has made room for the new gourmet outlet 1789. It features just a few tables in relaxed setting filling the space where the Bauernstube used to be. The latter’s concept is now part of the new casual eatery Schatzhauser, named after the forest spirit, the guardian of the charcoal burners and lumberjacks. Here you get a broad selection of dishes, also everyday cuisine, and this with a view too. More about the food experience at all these places follows later in this post.

After this look at Traube Tonbach’s history, now to more practical aspects.

Location of Traube Tonbach

The Traube Tonbach is set at the end of the Tonbach valley amidst the northern Black Forest in Germany’s south. It belongs to the township of Baiersbronn, 8 minutes  away by car. The main town here is Freudenstadt, which you reach in 21 minutes by car. The latter features Germany’s largest marketplace and a nice arcade architecture. The next bigger city is Karlsruhe, an hour and a quarter from the Tonbach valley.

You are here in rural surroundings, in a climatic health resort at an elevation of 550 – 860 m (1,804 –  2,822 ft) above sea level. The Black Forest National Park – ideal for hiking – is only steps away. By the way, my husband and I did a really nice hike here, on mostly narrow paths through heavily moss-covered forest filled with towering trees. It is called the Baiersbronner Tonbachsteig. Here is the link to outdooractive, a great digital guide to the outdoors, with directions (moderate difficulty, duration of about four hours).

Ambiance/Staff at Hotel Traube Tonbach

Hospitality and leadership

I mentioned it already, the Finkbeiner Family keeps hospitality dearly. The senior director and owner, Heiner Finkbeiner, does the round of all the four restaurants everyday at dinnertime to check on his guests. And he does this in such an eloquent way, finding the right words at all times.

Yet you also see other family members doing their (mundane) duty. For example, on one morning, we experienced Matthias Finkbeiner, one of the junior directors, doing breakfast service. He welcomed the guests and escorted them to their tables.

As to the (employed) staff, there is lots of them, more than 320 in numbers, and this with  151 rooms. And they do their respective jobs in a dedicated way. In this context, I would like to highlight the employees at Restaurant Schwarzwaldstube in particular. On our three visits so far, they put on a performance that is second to none. There is Stéphane Gass, the sommelier, on the one hand who has been working here for 32 years (and still looks young). On the other hand, it is about the really young maître d’ (born in 1992), Nina Mihilli. She has had this position for a year now and was already awarded as host of the year 2023 by Gault Millau.

Overall, you get the impression that the Finkbeiners do many things right as to hospitality and leadership. Now some brief remarks to the vibe and the clientele at Hotel Traube Tonbach.

Vibe and clientele

Although you never see the senior director without suit and tie, there is a fairly relaxed vibe going on at Hotel Traube Tonbach. Above all, it is a leisure hotel where guests come for unwinding in beautiful rural surroundings. Said that, the place has class. There are some long-standing traditions that are upheld and treasured by management and many regular guests (80% are patrons!) as well.

First of all, the atmosphere in the main house – where you find most guest rooms and the half-board and breakfast restaurant Silberberg – is still as it was decades ago. There have been some modernizations in the recent past, all of them soft. These concern the accommodations but also the public rooms. The bar

and the restaurant were upgraded yet the traditional Black Forest feel (in an upscale way) was kept. The same is true for how breakfast and half-board go. This is quite in contrast to the “restaurants house” and Haus Kohlwald where the ambiance is contemporary.

In terms of clientele, most guests come regularly – as mentioned. There is a considerable number of families, often over three generations. Otherwise, guests are mixed, some are younger but most are in middle age. There are lots of Germans, quite a few from France and some Swiss.

Rooms/Pricing

Earlier on, I already let you know some details about Hotel Traube Tonbach’s accommodations. To repeat it briefly, the rooms in the main house  – 129 units – are kept in an elegant country house style. The suites are more upmarket, with a Black Forest ambiance. In contrast, the accommodations at Haus Kohlwald – opposite the main house – are styled contemporarily. This annex underwent a complete renovation before it was reopened in 2012.

When my husband and I stayed first at Hotel Traube Tonbach – back in 2010 – , we opted for a Junior Suite in the main house. While it featured a generous layout and was perfectly kept, we would have preferred a more modern accommodation. So, we were delighted about the contemporary lodging in Haus Kohlwald when returning in 2013. And again, on our recent stay, we went for a room in the latter mentioned building. Before providing some details about this room, let me go briefly in the available lodging categories at Traube Tonbach.

Lodging in general

You are spoilt for choice in case you want to stay here. The least expensive room category is the Standard Queen option (25 sqm, from about 300 € in low season). The next higher ones are: Standard Double, Comfort, Grand Comfort, Premium/Premium Kohlwald, Superior and Deluxe. If you rather want to have a suite, you can choose from: Junior Suite, Suite, Unique Suite and Unique Panorama Suite Kohlwald. Plus there are Family Apartments, both at the main house and at the Haus Kohlwald.

All the room categories feature a balcony or a terrace. And they include a splendid breakfast buffet, an afternoon buffet with small bites, guided walks, bike rentals, gym lessons and more.

Now – as announced – to the room we had recently and in 2013.

Haus Kohlwald – Premium: our choice of room at Hotel Traube Tonbach

This time, our Premium Room at Haus Kohlwald was on the top floor, which offers the best view of the beautiful Tonbach valley.

The accommodations of this category are spacious (45 to 55 sqm) and have a large bed with two mattresses. There is much of space, be in the entrance area or in the main one. In the former you find an oversized desk plus lots of space for your clothes. In the latter there is a generous lounge area.

The bathroom has a tub and a separate shower plus double sinks.

The balcony is equipped with a sun lounger and a table with two chairs. While you can use the spa facilities at the main house, there are also some basic ones including a small lawn for sunbathing at Haus Kohlwald.

Next will be about the restaurants, one of the major reasons we keep returning to Traube Tonbach.

Restaurants

Again there is an agony of choice when it comes to food and drinks. In total, you find nine spots, from the three-star Michelin restaurant to the Pool Bar. When it comes to dining (full meal), there are still four of them to choose from. I start with the most casual one and end with the signature place.

Schatzhauser

As I already let you know this is one of three dining spots in the new “restaurants house”. It is named after the good forest spirit from a famous Black Forest fairy tale. Here you get Swabian-Badish cuisine but also international one, especially Asian food and steaks from the grill. Florian Stolte is in charge here, the one-star Michelin chef who is also responsible for Restaurant 1798. And Schatzhauser is listed in the Michelin Guide too, it has a Michelin Bib Gourmand.

As to the style of Schatzhauser, it has a contemporary decor. In addition to the spacious interiors, it also features an outdoor seating. Both offer this wonderful view of the Tonbach valley.

I have not eaten here yet, so I cannot give a judgement as to the dining experience. You get here snacks to accompany your pre-dinner drinks (4.90 to 18.90 €), dishes (10.50 to 40.00 €) and steaks from the lava stone grill (49.60 to 198 €, the latter probably for two persons). Desserts are available from 3.90 € (one scoop of ice cream) to 13.50 €.

Silberberg

Silberberg is the place where you get your half board arrangement. You can make use of it if you stay at Traube Tonbach for at least two nights. Then it costs 57 € per person and day. In case you are here for one night only, you may still book it. In this case, they charge 77 € during the week and 97 € on Saturdays. On the helm at Silberberg is Juergen Reidt. He prepares a five-course meal with his team every night, usually with several options to choose from.

This half board restaurant is the same where the breakfast and the afternoon buffet takes place. And it is kept – as already informed – in an upscale Black Forest style, i.e. it is quite traditional. And the dining room is huge, after all there are 151 rooms at Hotel Traube Tonbach.

On our recent stay, we did not eat here. However, we had one dinner at Silberberg when we first came to this hotel back in 2010. And I remember it well, although I do not have many details to offer. You may also check out the short review I did at the time, where I briefly go into this meal.

1789

This is one of two Michelin starred restaurants at Hotel Traube Tonbach. Precisely, it has one Michelin star (Gault Millau gives it three toques, which corresponds to 15/16 points). And 1789 is the place where chef Florian Stolte is at work. As I already let you know, this dining spot arose from the former Koehlerstube. Here Florian Stolte was already on the helm, and this since 2012. And his efforts were crowned in 2019 with a Michelin star. The restaurant name goes back to the year when Traube Tonbach was founded.

1789 is a small place, with just about ten tables. You have the impression of being in some kind of living room. The decor is contemporary but at the same time oozes cosyness. What I also appreciated, was the air conditioning in here as we visited this eatery on a hot summer day. In terms of cuisine, it has a strong Asian orientation yet you also notice well the chef’s upbringing in kitchens where traditional French cooking techniques were widely used.

Dinner experience at 1789

You do not have to think long when it comes to ordering. There is only one menu, either with meat and fish (180 €) or in a vegetarian variant (145 €). While this sounds like quite an expensive meal, the ingredients they use here are top notch. And they also know how to prepare excellent dishes out of them!

What was on the menu?

Already the amuse bouche was impressive. It was a handsome portion of goose liver ice cream, duck liver paste interlaced with mango. It tasted just great!

Next we were delighted with madai, Japanese sea bream, in two versions. It is known in Japan as “celebration” fish, and it came with Imperial Caviar. It continued in the same furious manner, first turbot with truffle and then the high quality gamba carabinera in a tom kha soup!

Both were excellent dishes.

The meat course was a bit more modest, poularde with palm heart yet not less tasty. And the two desserts were perfectly matched, the first a sesame creation paired with vanilla and passion fruit, the second Valrhona chocolate in unison with fruity touches.

How was the service?

While my husband and I very much enjoyed the fabulous meal, it was a bit marred by a somewhat inexperienced female server who advised us (not very expertly) on choosing the right wine to accompany the food. Otherwise, service was good and smooth. We felt well at ease at this high-end yet relaxed dining spot. One more thing caught my attention, one table was not occupied, and this on a Saturday evening in early July. I could imagine that this might be related to the rather high price tag of the meal. While it is definitely justified in view of the first class products used, I am not sure whether this concept works unreservedly.

Schwarzwaldstube

A dinner at the Schwarzwaldstube is always a huge highlight, also in the life of a hardcore foodie! And my husband and I are lucky enough to have experienced it already for the third time. However, the last occasion goes back ten years. But of course you should not overdo such dinners, otherwise they lose their appeal. And this time the meal took place under a new chef and in a totally different setting. As I already did elaborate, the premises are new, inaugurated a bit more than a year ago, though the restaurant is exactly at the same spot as it was before.

When entering the dining room I was in awe of the high gable. This feature is very much in contrast to earlier times, when there was a low ceiling instead, although an impressive wooden one. Now everything looks lighter – thanks to huge panorama windows – and more modern. Schwarzwaldstube’s best asset in terms of interiors is the great view of the Black Forest that you have from every table. As to the latter, there are about ten of them, one less than at the time as the restaurant manager told us. And the space is air-conditioned, what I very much welcomed on a hot summer evening.

The staff’s looks are more modern too. Sneakers are the order of the day. Black suit and tie or dirndl are a thing of the past.

Before going into our recent dinner experience at Schwarzwaldstube, a view at the restaurant’s rating in the leading gourmet guides.

Rating of Schwarzwaldstube in gourmet guides

The Michelin Guide judges the cuisine’s performance with Torsten Michel in charge as the non plus ultra (three stars), and in my humble opinion, they are absolutely right. You get here a thoughtful mix of tradition and modernity, and this with the best produce conceivable. Gault Millau’s rating is not less favorable. The Schwarzwaldstube gets the maximum of five toques (corresponds to 19 points out of 20), and this as one restaurant from four in total in Germany. And with La Liste, it ranks in the 16th place as best dining spot in Germany.

Dinner experience at Schwarzwaldstube

As the two previous dinners here it was like “oh wow that was really great”! You get at the Schwarzwaldstube an exciting cuisine, grounded in classical French tradition but inspired by modern influences.

When dining here, you can decide between the Small Degustation Menu (five courses for 265 €), the Large Degustation Menu (seven courses for 295 €) or the Vegetarian Menu (six courses for 245 €). Alternatively, you can order from an à la carte menu. And you may also – as the gracious host, Nina Mihilli, let us know – incorporate dishes from this section into the degustation menu. While I was tempted to do so, I refrained from it. I am sure the chef knows what he does when composing a menu!

What was on the menu?

And everything we had – we chose the large menu – was so good! Be it the amuse bouche, a carrot variation full of flavor,

or the first starter, a mosaic of duck liver, quail breast and sweetbread. And nothing else can be said as to what followed: Breton lobster with passion fruit and red bell pepper chutney

as well as sea bass with cauliflower mushrooms and lotus root. Also the main course knew how to convince, roe deer with a juniper crust paired with chanterelles and pineapple.

Before the sweet finale, the beautifully sorted cheese trolley pulls up at the Schwarzwaldstube. Responsible for it is the Alsatian affineur Bernard Antony, who brings some of the finest cheeses to market. After asking about our preferences, the server put together a composition for us. Then it was time for two desserts. First, there was delectable cherry-chocolate biscuit creation, probably inspired by the famous Black Forest cherry cake. An explosion of tastes, textures and flavors was next: mango sorbet and Indian spices, Muscovada savarin, salted peanut caramel and iced Espresso. And the final point set a fabulous selection of petit fours.

What an amazing meal this was!

How was the service?

The service – under the lead of host Nina Mihilli and sommelier Stéphane Gass – hit the perfect notes of warmth and friendliness with an unstaged authenticity. And chef Torsten Michel seems to be a really gracious person. Each time he appeared in the dining room – I also caught sight of him at Restaurant 1789 – , he waved and smiled. Plus, he spent a lot of time on making the rounds after dinner to talk to his guests. This in contrast to his predecessor from whom I never saw a glimpse on my previous two visits. Once again, my husband and I thoroughly loved our experience at Schwarzwaldstube, from the exceptional cuisine to the perfectly orchestrated service, and this time in a setting that is light, chic and airy!

Not only the restaurant selection at Hotel Traube Tonbach is impressive, but also the other facilities leave nothing to be desired.

Other facilities

Spa/Pool

The spa including the sauna and pool area was completely redesigned in 2001. The sauna area has it all: forest, sound, infrared or bio sauna plus floral steam bath and ice igloo. In 2012, the spa was enlarged and offers now nine luxurious treatment rooms. In addition to the spa in the main house there also is a small spa lounge at Haus Kohlwald. It features a textile family sauna with panorama windows, a steam bath and a large whirlpool.

As to the pool area, the outdoor pool received an update in 2016. From then on, all the pools are filled with fresh water from the local Buschbrunnen spring. Apart from the spacious heated outdoor pool, there are two lap pools, three whirlpools and a children’s pool. Plus, you find here a pool bar and a gym.

For children

The former tennis hall was reconstructed and has been the Kids’ Court since 2006. It offers lots of space for children to play to their heart’s content. Among other things you find here a game room, a cookery school, a chill out room, a cozy corner, indoor football or bobby cars. The child care center is open to kids from three years on. They can have lunch and dinner here as well. In addition to the Kid’s Court, a huge playground was built on its roof in 2015. And swimming courses for children are also an option.

Activities

Traube Tonbach’s surrounding nature is great for hiking or biking. While of course you can do this individually, there is an alternative, though. The hotels offers an activity program with a variety of things to do in groups. As to my husband and myself, we did a great hike. For instructions, refer to the above location section. And if you want to bike and did not bring your own, there is a free rental of e-bikes and mountain e-bikes too.

In case you should be into golfing, the nearest 18-hole golf course is located 12 km/8 mi away in Freudenstadt. And more are in the near surroundings.

The Chapel

And imagine, there is even a hotel chapel, the Franziska Chapel! It is located on the third floor and comes complete with a pipe organ. It is at your disposal for a quiet moment or a short prayer. And it is available for weddings, baptisms or other events too.

Overall

When checking in to the luxury Hotel Traube Tonbach in the Black Forest in Germany’s south, you get everything you could wish for. It is not only a pilgrim spot for foodies – Schwarzwaldstube with three Michelin stars and 1789 with one of them – , but has lots to offer in all the other important areas too. It is great for spa addicts, nature lovers, active people (on your own or in groups organized by the hotel) and families. Everything is taken care of, there is even a chapel inside the hotel.

As to lodging, I suggest choosing the main house for people who like a more traditional style. For those into modern accommodations, I advise to opt for the Haus Kohlwald. As to food, either dine at one of the Michelin starred spots, go for the half-board option or eat at the relaxed Schatzhauser. The choice is yours! For lunch or small bites, there also is a handful of places to go. And what I really find awesome at the Traube Tonbach is that it has been family owned and managed since eight generations! And they know their business here, the hospitality is second to none. You see, it is the total package!

Last stay: July 2023

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