11 days on the road in the Piedmont & west Switzerland in luxury
An itinerary through Italy’s Piedmont with luxury hotels & (Michelin) fine dining restaurants plus a side trip to the Swiss west:
One more trip lead my husband and me to northern Italy, this time to the Piedmont. Regarding the last two journeys in this area, find the details below. On our most recent voyage, it was basically about a two-stop Piedmont itinerary. One should be in the typical Piedmont with its hilly vineyards, the other in the Italian lake region just adjacent to Switzerland. We added two more halts to shorten the travel time from one place to another. As always when vacationing, we opted for luxury hotels and (Michelin) fine dining restaurants as long as they offered value for money. This because we are not ready to pay ridiculous prices for staying and dining in style. And everywhere we went we were looking out for opportunities to walk and explore the area walking.
Looking back at former north Italy trips
Before coming to the itinerary of our recent Piedmont trip, here is some info on the mentioned last two journeys in the area.
North Italy trip 2023: Trentino-South Tyrol & Lombardy
We started the journey with two stays in the South Tyrol. On the one hand, we went to Dorf Tirol (Tirolo in Italian) above Meran (Merano in Italian). On the other hand, we ventured to the Sarntal (Sarentino valley in Italian) above Bozen (Bolzanzo in Italian). As you may have noticed, the South Tyrol is bilingual – German and Italian. Next was the Lake Garda further south. While its northern part is located in the Trentino, the place we went already belongs to the Lombardy. It is about the picturesque town of Gardone Riviera.
On return, we took a detour to the Lake Geneva region in the Swiss west. Precisely, we made a stop in Glion/Montreux.
North Italy trip 2021: Piedmont & Liguria
Our first stop in the Piedmont was not far away from Switzerland, in the Italian Lake region, and we opted for Orta San Giulio (Lake Orta). Then we proceeded to the “usual” Piedmont – rolling hills with vineyards – near Alba. At the time, we lodged in Santo Stefano Belbo, 30 minutes east from the mentioned regional capital. From here we went on to Liguria. Here we stayed in Alassio, the beach town on the so-called Italian Riviera.
Our way home led over France, we made halts in Vence, Les-Baux-de-Provence and in Vienne.
Now to our current Italy adventure.
North Italy trip 2024: 11-day road trip Piedmont & Swiss west trip itinerary
As mentioned, for our latest north Italy trip we had been longing for vines and lake. Here is my Google Map of it with all the (luxury) hotels we stayed and the (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants we went:
This time we started with a four-day stay in the wine growing area around Alba. We chose a hotel not so far away from the one we were on our last visit. Again it was half an hour by car away from Alba, but not in the eastern direction as last time but in the southern one. And it was in the town of Ceretto Langhe.
As it would have been quite a long trip from our home town, we inserted an intermediate stop about two thirds of the way. That was north of Turin in Caluso. Our second four-day visit was in Stresa on Lake Maggiore.
On our way home, we made a halt in the Vallée de Joux, a high valley in the Swiss Jura Mountains. It is situated not far from Lake Geneva in western Switzerland.
Now to some information about the individual places on our Piedmont itinerary. In addition, I also include some remarks about staying and dining in style here.
From place to place in the Piedmont & Swiss west
1. Caluso, north of Turin, 1st stop Piedmont itinerary
Caluso is a small town in the Metropolitan City of Turin in the Italian region Piedmont, located about 30 km/19 mi northeast of Turin. It has gained some notoriety because of the white wine grape Erbaluce that is primarily grown here. From what I read (and also tried) it makes good dry table, sweet and sparkling wines. In addition, Caluso has a nice medieval town center
and a tranquil environment (Lago di Candia: great circular walk).
Caluso is not exactly a tourist hotspot. My husband and I came here looking for a stopover between our home town and the Langhe wine region. And it delivered well in this respect with the fabulous one-star Michelin Restaurant Gardenia (update November 2024: Michelin listed) – I think we were the only foreigners on our dinner.
The female chef celebrates an amazing cuisine inspired by nature and with a high respect of the plant world.
And this in a beautiful 19th century building. Plus, we found a great bed and breakfast establishment, the brand new Villa Albaluce. It is a historic mansion with a spacious garden and five suites (all with kitchen),
featuring 18th century parquet floors, frescoed vaults and antique furniture. On top of all that, staff was top notch. And it is only a few minutes away by foot from the above mentioned dining-spot.
2. Ceretto Langhe, south of Alba, 2nd stop Piedmont itinerary
I went into the typical Piedmont – sloping hills covered in grapevines – in a former post at some length. So, I will not offer more details about this area right now. I can only say this much: I found the Langhe wine region south of Alba even more beautiful than the already stunning one east of it. I think in this context of towns just as Serralunga d’Alba, Barolo or La Morra. Later on my blog, I will advise on some more activities in the area, in addition to the ones already mentioned in above post.
In terms of accommodation in the Langhe, we opted this time for Casa di Langa (my post). This hotel has not only an exceptional setting
but is also an architectural jewel. It opens up to a valley like an amphitheater, revealing a breathtaking view of the surrounding rolling hills dotted with villages and vineyards.
Casa di Langa is a fairly new property and features 42 modernly furnished rooms.
As always when traveling we try to dine at the best (Michelin) restaurants in the area – usually with an eye for value for money. And we made great finds in the area in this regard. We liked the dining experience at our hotel – Fàula Ristorante –
yet there is much more for fine dining lovers in the surroundings. Come back later to check out my reporting on staying and dining in style in the Langhe wine region.
3. Stresa, Italian Lakes (Lake Maggiore) near Switzerland, 3rd stop Piedmont itinerary
The small town of Stresa is located on the western shores of Lake Maggiore, the longest of all Italian lakes. It has been a bathing resort since the late 18th century. The rather touristy place
is known for its lovely board walk, the splendid villas and the magnificent grand hotels from the Belle Époque period. And it is a perfect gateway for visiting the famous Borromean Islands.
At a later point of time, I will inform on things to do here in a separate blogpost.
Our main reason to choose Stresa above other spots in the Italian Lakes region was a newly opened luxury hotel. It is about Boutique Hotel Stresa (my review). This accommodation with 26 wonderful rooms
has a prime location just by the lake.
Furthermore, it is adjacent to the historic town center and five minutes by foot away from the jetty. Plus, it is a true beauty thanks to its successful architecture, a mix between old and new.
When it comes to fine dining in Stresa, LeBolle Restaurant at Boutique Hotel Stresa is a very good choice. You can have here contemporary Italian food with a twist either in its chic interiors or on the outdoor area. When doing the latter, make sure to make a reservation in one of the five bubbles, which is an enjoyable thing to do.
I have two more Michelin fine dining recommendations for you in Stresa’s neighborhood. You will find all about staying and dining in Stresa in my detail report to follow on my blog,
4. Valleé de Joux (near Lake Geneva), Swiss west, side trip
On hour way home form our Piedmont itinerary, my husband and I made a stop in the Swiss west, precisely in the Valleé de Joux.
We have been in the area many years ago and wanted to revisit ever since. At the time, we liked the rugged and unspoilt valley nestled between Jura Mountain ranges. Now, as an upscale hotel has opened here not so long ago, we found that the right time for this undertaking has come. It is about Hotel des Horlogers (Watchmaker Hotel).
You can reach the hotel that is owned by a famous watchmaker company in about 40 minutes by car from Lake Geneva.
I must say that the property truly is a masterful engineering and design achievement.
And all the 50 guest rooms come with a stunning view of the Risoud forest.
While service at the reception was immaculate, the one at the restaurant was a bit uninspired. We had the Food Lovers package at their Michelin listed Brasserie Le Gogant, which included a four-course discovery meal. Food was good yet not overly inventive, given the place is overseen by a three-star Michelin chef.
Sadly, a booking at La Table des Horlogers (Carte Blanche du Chef) was not possible. Overall, we had a decent enough experience at Hotel des Horlogers, but we probably would not return.
What is next in my Italy’s Piedmont reporting
Whereas I will not go further into our two “stopovers” in Caluso/Piedmont and Valleé de Joux/western Switzerland, there will be more about the two main destinations on our Piedmont itinerary. These are the Langhe wine region around Alba and the town of Stresa on the Lake Maggiore. My reporting will include the two high-end accommodations – Casa di Langa near Alba and Boutique Hotel Stresa. I will also inform about the best (Michelin) fine dining restaurants (Langhe, Stresa), both at the hotels and nearby. Finally, there will be blogposts about things to do in both places (Langhe, Stresa), especially for those who like walking as my husband and I do.
Date of stay: July 2024
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