Here is the information on which luxury hotels to choose on a second journey to lesser-known Japan. It is about traveling Kyushu, Shikoku and unknown Honshu. In my last post, I provided the corresponding itinerary. I emphasize “second” trip because I think that there is no way around the royal way to discover Japan on a first trip. And this is by the (Extended) Golden Triangle/Route I described in the same post too. You have to know in this context that staying in typical Japanese hotels (ryokans and other boutique lodgings) is half the fun of traveling Japan. So, your choice of accommodation is of great importance. I am happy to advise on this by elaborating about the luxury hotels my husband and I opted for on our recent visit to off-the-beaten-path Japan.

Before I go further, find first My Google Map of a 3½-week Japan itinerary in style for second-timers. It comes with all the hotels, restaurants and activities we experienced complete with short descriptions.

Luxury hotels on lesser-known Japan trip

I mentioned it already, our second trip to off-the-beaten-path Japan went to Kyushu, Shikoku and unknown Honshu. While we had three stops in both Kyushu and Honshu, there was only one in Shikoku. So, I cannot give a complete picture of the latter. The itinerary of this Japanese journey was heavily influenced by the lodging options en route. Precisely, where there were no well-rated luxury hotels we did not stay.

In this context, I also have to stress that we usually do not pay excessive prices. If we think a hotel charges too much, then we cannot take it into consideration.

While we also had hotel stays in Osaka and Kyoto, I will not go into them – but you find the key points in My Google Map. Now to our choice of lodging and my comments to the individual places.

Our Kyushu luxury hotels in off-the-beaten-path Japan

After flying in from Osaka to Kagoshima, we started our Kyushu explorations from the south of this island and headed north, first to Unzen and Nagasaki City in its northwest, then to Yufuin/Beppu in its northeast. As I mentioned in my itinerary post, we traveled by rental car. So, we were flexible and did not need transportation for our explorations.

1. Izumi: RITA Izumi Fumato

Izumi on Kyushu’s southwestern coast is not a town you will find in every travel guide – it probably is not included in any of the usual ones. This is because it is not really a tourist place. There is Izumi Fumoto, a massive, beautifully preserved samurai residential district, but that is it. And this is why we came. I had discovered a gem of a hotel here, RITA Izumi Fumato. This is a unique samurai residence hotel with only six rooms, and these across three properties. It is about 100-year-old traditional samurai homes, which have been meticulously preserved.

While they feature wooden beams and tatami floors, they come with all the modern comforts (hotel opened in June 2022).

My husband and I did not think long and decided to start our Kyushu journey here. And we were more than happy with our stay! After a cordial welcome we settled in our room of choice, Akane (85 sqm) at the Miyaji Residence. It was huge and nicely decorated.

The one thing you have to know is that the walls are very thin. So, when it is cold outside, it is the same inside. Yet they have made provisions, there were two A/C units, three heaters and one air cleaner.

Staff was friendly and helpful throughout our stay, although their English was basic (better use Google Translate). Included in the rate (39,000 Yen/night, which was much value for money) was a fine breakfast at another residence (ten minutes by foot away).

While it was not necessarily hearty, it was big enough and consisted of a good mix of western and Japanese items. Rooms were cleaned daily, but it was only an eco cleaning (waste removal and water refill). Bottom line, we would return in a heartbeat!

2. Unzen: Unzen Miyazaki Ryokan

When it came to our Unzen accommodation, my husband and I hesitated for quite a long time between Unzen Miyazaki Ryokan

and another one recommended by the Michelin Guide, Ryotei Hanzuiryo. But we were not not fully convinced of the latter, especially price wise, so we opted for the former. And we were not disappointed! The hotel reopened in December 2025 after a thorough makeover. And I think it was very well done. I like the design, which is more contemporary than traditional. The lobby and the dining-room are beauties, both modern and kept in a dark-grey hue.

Out of the 39 guest rooms, we opted for a Premium Design Corner Room

with a Semi-Open-Air Bath (82 sqm, 150,741 Yen/night including dinner and access to lounge with free drinks). I was fond of  the layout and the modern furnishings. Also the bathroom was nice, however the onsen bath was a bit on the small side (only just large enough for two persons).

And having a corner room offered no extra benefit except a small side-facing window.

We received a warm welcome at this ryokan. Throughout our stay, the staff was convincing, from a thorough room cleaning to a pleasant dinner service and providing helpful information. They usually spoke good English. When the topic was a bit complex, they used Google Translate to convey their message clearly. As to dinner, we got a fine kaiseki meal with enough variety over the three nights we spent here.

Only the breakfast was a bit overwhelming with not only a box with lots of different food items in it, but a number of additional courses too

My verdict: I would return here without hesitation.

3. Yufuin: Enowa Yufuin Botanical Retreat

This was the first hotel we booked for this Japan trip. I learned of its opening (June 2023) when it became part of Relais & Châteaux. And I quickly fell in love with it as it appeared as something special. In particular, as it follows an ultra-local farm-to-table approach with its Jimgu Restaurant.

Here a chef is at the helm who worked many years at Blue Hill at Stone Barns in New York. This is not only a pioneer of the farm-to-table movement but has also has held two Michelin stars since 2019. And the food at this dining spot  (modern French) was really fantastic! Both dinner

and breakfast were hits. As to the latter, it was definitely the best I have ever had!

And the chef, Tashi Gyamtso from Tibet, is a nice guy, who chats with his guests when the occasion arises.

Not only the restaurant – an impressive roundhouse –

knows how to please but also the property (two Michelin Keys). It stretches across a huge terraced hillside

and is ultra modern with lots of natural materials used in its construction.  You find here 19 accommodations (9 rooms in the main building

and 10 standalone luxury villas along the hillside). My husband and I went for one of the entry-level rooms (78 sqm, 158,338 Yen/night with dinner). While I liked the outdoor onsen and its design,

I was not a huge fan of the layout (bed in front of the window – with no view to speak of – and sitting room in the rear – which was quite dark).

When it came to service, we were very happy with the manager, who turned out to be very attentive and helpful. Yet, we unfortunately did not have an ideal first encounter. At the time, we sensed that she wanted to push us to have dinner early to accommodate her schedule. As we were not ready to comply (we had reserved ages ago), she finally found a solution. Otherwise and overall, we had a very pleasant stay and would go there again without thinking twice.

A great luxury hotel in Shikoku, a lesser-known part in Japan

As you have learned before, we had only one stay on the island of Shikoku. This was in the hills above Matsuyama it its northwest. Here we found the following extraordinary luxury hotel in this part of lesser-known Japan.

Matsuyama: Setouchi Retreat by Onko Chishin

This is definitely not your usual luxury hotel! This property in the forested hills over Matsuyama, designed by renowned architect Tadao Ando,

was first a corporate guesthouse and then a modern art museum.

Since December 2015 it has been an exclusive, adults-only boutique hotel. When the hospitality brand of Onko Chishin took over, Tadao Ando was brought back to oversee the remodeling of this building. 

From this emerged a serene yet living art space – it actually doubles as art gallery – with seven suites only. All of them measure over 100 square meters. The hotel’s design embodies minimalist luxury, featuring clean lines and understated decor. What a pleasure for the eyes and the senses. Nothing unnecessary interferes with your inner peace. My husband and I chose a Half-Open-Air Hot Spring Suite with Forest View

(117,879 Yen/night with dinner and access to lounge with free drinks, one Michelin Key) and were delighted by it!

The most striking feature here is – yet everything is full of beauty – the magnificent pool that juts out over the mountain ridge. From this 30-meter/98-feet lap pool

you have the most fantastic views of the Seto Inland Sea.

Staff here is great, ensuring that every guest feels attended to and valued. As to food you are in for refined kaiseki cuisine.

The breakfast on our first day was designed to impress with a story to tell.

The ones that followed were less inspired and a bit on the small side, but still made with care. How wonderful that we found this treasure of a hotel!

Our luxury hotels in Japan’s lesser-known Honshu

After crossing the Seto Island Sea we did not venture far for our first stop on Honshu near Okayama. Then we headed to the so-called “Kyoto by the Sea”, the northern coastal region of Kyoto Prefecture about a 40-minute car ride from Kyoto. Our last stay in hidden Honshu was in the Mie Prefecture. Precisely, we stayed on the Shima Peninsula, a bit more than two and half hours by car south of Kyoto. And everywhere in this lesser-known Japan we found luxury hotels to our liking.

1. Kurashiki: Hotel Yoruya

The hotel’s best feature is its setting in a restored 110-year-old kimono merchant’s residence in Kurashiki’s Bikan Historical Quarter.

The renovation included historic and newly built structures, which were merged to create a unified entity (opened November 2024).

I liked the appeal of the property with a good mix of old and new. You would not guess that there is a luxury boutique hotel with 13 rooms behind the dark timber façade you meet on your arrival. This because the building looked more or less like all the other ones in this beautiful historic neighborhood. But unfortunately, there were some unfavorable aspects too.

Above all, I had mixed feelings about our room, a Maisonette-Renga

(48 sqm, 158,510 Yen/night with dinner). It was nicely designed

but the downstairs bathroom was not only rather cramped (sink area) but it was also chilly in here; both is true for the entrance hall too. And in the shower and tub area it was even freezing cold.

Then we encountered some culinary issues. Whereas we enjoyed our dinners,

the second one was a bit repetitive.

The Japanese breakfast was excellent,

in contrast to the western one on the second morning. We also faced some challenges with the staff. A minor point was the failure to refill the water in our room on the second day. I also had doubts about their attitude because of how we were seen off upon leaving. Almost everywhere else in Japan we got a farewell with fanfare. Here, one employee said goodbye but the superiors I had just seen disappear behind a curtain did not appear to join in.

After considering our experience at Yoruya, I believe we did not receive sufficient value for the significant amount we spent at this hotel. It remains unclear if any of the problems experienced here are related to the hotel being part of the Marriot portfolio (we saw quite many Americans under the guests too). Be it as it may, I am not sure whether we would choose to stay here again.

2. Kyoto by the Sea/Miyazu: Monjusou Shourotei

Monjusou Shourotei was the most traditional ryokan we had on this Japan trip.

That means there was a shoe-off policy right by the entrance and the meals took place in your own private dining-room. On arrival day, a staff member came to our guest room to show us to the one in question. Also the kaiseki dinner followed long-standing established standards. It was very good,

the same was true for the breakfast.

While everything was very elaborate on our first day, this was less so on our second day. This applies for both, diner and breakfast. But it was still an impressive affair.

The ryokan has an excellent location, just on a quiet, forested spit of land across the famous sandbar of Amanohashidate in Kyoto’s north.

Out of the 7 seven rooms, which are all newly renovated, we went for an entry-level one. It is about the one called Shoukin (101,400 Yen/night with dinner),  which is one of two traditional ones.

The room spans 25 sqm, constructed in the traditional 8 tatami-mats and 4-tatami mats configuration. You sleep on futon beds that are stored away during the day.

And you have a front-row view of the mentioned sandbar and the picturesque Aso Sea. The bathroom is small yet functionally furnished.

In contrast to the larger, more modern suites, there is no hot spring onsen. The premium ones also come with their own sleeping rooms.

During our hotel stay, we met the typically renowned Japanese hospitality. Everything was perfect from the start to the end. I would recommend this lodging without any reservation, especially so in case you want to experience how it is being in a truly traditional ryokan.

3. Shima Peninsula: The Hiramatsu Hotels & Resorts Kashikojima

Here in Kyoto’s south on the stunning Shima Peninsula you find the first property of the Hiramatsu hotel group, founded by chef Hiroyuki Hiramatsu.

This name achieved fame when its Paris location became the first Japanese-owned French restaurant to receive a Michelin star. The high standard of culinary excellence is applied in the Kashikojima kitchen too (chef Masato Imamura in charge). The menu merges classic French techniques with the high-quality produce of the region. You get here an outstanding multi-course dinner, which included not only premium ingredients but foie gras too.

And this was the case every night on our three-night stay. Also the breakfast was top-notch.

Due to its strong focus on gastronomic mastery, this lodging is considered as upscale fine-dining restaurant with rooms. There are eight of them, the smaller Deluxe ones in the main building, the larger Executives ones with private onsen in the Annexe (194,000 Yen/night with dinner). We had one of the latter

and loved the oversized bathroom with the onsen in its center in particular.

From here we had a great view of the scenic Ago Bay.

At Hiramatsu Kashikojima they operate on the concept of a western ryokan. While the food of course is not Japanese, other aspects are, just as having your meals at a private dining-room.

Michelin awarded the hotel a Michelin Key.

What struck me most here was how the staff monitored our coming and leaving. While we had experienced this in Japan before, here it was taken to the extreme. Yet they had good intentions and we did not really mind. When it came to their command of English, not all the employees were fluent but they succeeded to some extent. As to the service quality, they embodied the classic celebrated Japanese hospitality at its best. My verdict: come here for excellent French cuisine as well as cordial and attentive service.

About my second trip to lesser-known Japan posts

While this post was about all the luxury hotels my husband and I were (without Osaka and Kyoto) on our second trip to lesser-known Japan, my first went into the underlaying itinerary. Here I made one of My Google Maps that come with the route, all the upscale lodgings, fine-dining restaurants and cafés plus the activities.

The topic of my next and last blog post will be about the fine-dining spots we were on this journey outside of the hotels we stayed.

In this context, you have to be aware of the fact that the dinner in Japan is often included in the accommodations you typically find here, especially in the countryside (ryokans and similar establishments). So, there is in many cases no need to look out for off-site restaurants. Though, we had quite a few of them and – as almost always – I frequently relied on the Michelin Guide when choosing them.

Date of stay: April 2026

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Are you a fine-dining lover heading to Singapore? And this in search of the possibly best three-star Michelin restaurant here? Maybe a nearby luxury hotel would also suit you? Then I might help out. When my husband and I planned our fourth stopover in Singapore, we wanted to stay in a part of the city where we had not been before. Plus, we longed for having a second dinner at the three-star Michelin Restaurant Les Amis Singapore where we had eaten back in 2019. It was awarded two Michelin stars back then, and we enjoyed here maybe one of the best meals we ever had. As regulars at COMO Hotels and Resorts, we knew about the recently opened COMO Metropolitan Singapore. And as it is located in the Orchard Road area – where Les Amis Singapore is too – , we found it perfect for our purposes.

Before coming to our recent Singapore trip, here first a brief look back at our earlier stays in this city. Precisely, I want to go into the lodgings where we have already stayed. Plus, I would like to let you know why Restaurant Les Amis Singapore stood out to us at the time.

Fabulous luxury hotels in Singapore – our past choices

When visiting Singapore for the the first time in 2015, my husband and I wanted to be at the famous Raffles Hotel Singapore.

This longtime landmark with its colonial-style architecture is some kind of “living national monument”. And we enjoyed our stay here immensely. Having said that, rates here have skyrocketed meanwhile – after a costly renovation.

On our return visit to Singapore in 2016, we opted for another prominent hotel in town. It is about the favorably located Fullerton Bay Hotel Singapore.

This accommodation – opened in 2010 – is on the historic Clifford Pier only steps away from some major attractions. My husband and I loved the contemporary guest room with unobstructed views of the Singapore skyline and Marina Bay in particular.

When coming back to this city in 2019, we chose yet another hotel. And this time it was in the historic Tanjong Pagar district. This area, not that known with non-natives, is just south of Chinatown. Its situation is not only central enough but has an additional feature. Precisely, there are lots of beautiful ancient shophouses lining the streets. Unfortunately, the property we stayed at the time – Six Senses Maxwell,

a restored colonial-style building – does no longer operate under the Six Senses brand. It closed down in May 2020 after being opened only in December 2018.

First visit to Restaurant Les Amis Singapore

On our last Singapore trip in 2019, we had been looking for a dining spot to celebrate a special occasion. This led us to the award-winning Les Amis Singapore (two Michelin stars at the time). First, we found the pricing a bit steep yet it soon became evident that Restaurant Les Amis is a top-tier dining experience worth every penny! Not only the food – modern French classics with ingredients sourced from France – was excellent,

but the ambiance and the service too. And the same was true for the wines – they were happy to show us the really impressive wince cellar

back then. As we had so fond memories of our dinner at Les Amis Singapore, my husband and I craved for another visit to this place!

Our 2025 Singapore stay in style

Now to our recent Singapore style, which was short but intense. We used this city as stopover destination back home from Australia where we spent a wonderful time in Western Australia (find my posts here: itinerary, staying & dining in style, best activities). When flying in from Perth late in the evening, we skipped the dinner on this day. And as we flew out the evening after next – again late – , we only had one full day for our Singapore adventure. During the day, we revisited the Singapore Botanic Gardens, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and in the evening, we dined at Restaurant Les Amis Singapore, again for a special occasion as last time.

In the following, I want you to know how it was staying and dining in style in Singapore. And I have a third treat for you as well, at least in case you are a pastry lover. This is because Hotel COMO Metropolitan Singapore – where we lodged –

houses a pastry shop of the celebrated Cédric Grolet.

He used to be pastry chef at the Michelin starred Restaurant Le Meurice in Paris. And he has become a social media sensation with millions of followers because of his new approach on pastry.

1. Hotel COMO Metropolitan Singapore

As already informed, we chose this hotel because we had experienced satisfying stays at other COMO properties in the past. In the case of COMO Metropolitan Singapore, it is the first of the locally based COMO hotel group to open in Singapore. Unfortunately, upon our late arrival, we were told that it was COMO Metropolitan Singapore’s second anniversary. Thus, a huge party was underway. That meant that the lobby lounge and the rooftop bar were closed to hotel guests. They referred us to their COTE Restaurant & Bar for a drink, but their barman “forgot” us after handing out the menu. So, we left and tried their main restaurant, COMO Cuisine. Sadly, it was almost empty and they were preparing to close for the night. In consequence, we retreated to our room for a night cap from their (complimentary) mini bar.

Guest rooms

After this – not that ideal start – we settled into the guest room, one of 156 in total over 11 floors. It was clean-lined and contemporary, furnished with high-end furniture. I liked how stylish it was, but I was perplexed that there was already some damage (missing closet handle, scratched floor). And the lighting setup was barely understandable. Yet overall, I was content with the room (Emerald Room).

I not only liked its design but also its size (36 sqm) and its city views through wall-to-wall windows. Plus, I found it moderately priced (410 S$/250 SFR/324 US$ without breakfast).

Facilities

As to COMO Metropolitan Singapore’s facilities, the 19-story tower gathers all the COMO brands under one roof, from the mentioned luxury hospitality to the fashion retail to wellness and dining. As to the spa, there is the first-rate COMO Shambhala. Plus, two floors are here for Club 21, a fashion retailer. Then there are the already mentioned COTE Singapore, an outpost of a Michelin-starred Korean Steakhouse, COMO Cuisine and Cédric Grolet Patisserie (see the section after next). Plus, you find the Sky Bar and the Lobby Lounge on the premises.

Apart from our breakfast at Cédric Grolet – see further down – , my husband and I had breakfast at COMO Cuisine too. As to its interiors, I would describe them as a bit strange, mildly put. The supports are covered with silver foam sheets tied with bands. And the chairs have the appearance of such ones you use in an outdoor setting. They serve a cuisine representing Singapore’s different populations groups. In terms of breakfast, a continental one is available plus a number of hot dishes. To my surprise, the offerings at the breakfast counter (continental) only included pastries, cereals, yoghurt pots, seasonal fruits, green salad and toast. That was it, you found here no cheese, cold cuts or bread (other than toast).

Regarding the Sky Bar on the roof top – along a lovely pool – ,

we only had a look around. You really have impressive city views from here. And the present server was friendly enough to show us the premises.

In the Lobby Lounge Bruno is on duty. This is the hotel’s resident robot barista, a real fun thing! And the offer is complimentary for hotel guests.

Service wise, we generally considered the staff throughout the hotel as polite, considerate and helpful.

2. Restaurant Les Amis Singapore

I have already shared some details about Les Amis Singapore above.

Again, we had here one of the most memorable dinner we ever had! It was even more impressive than last time, maybe because we had this time the tasting menu (565 S$/343 SFR/447 US$) or they had received their third Michelin star in the meantime. But first things first. We were amiably received by the host, who ushered us to the same (excellent) table we had last time. The interiors had been redone since our visit in 2019, yet the dining room kept the same elegant attire it had.

Unchanged was also the graceful attitude of the staff. Even the maître d’ was the same as last time.

Just as on our first visit, he made a great contribution to making our dinner a truly enjoyable one!

Back story Restaurant Les Amis Singapore

Les Amis Singapore is a thoroughly French Restaurant that has been in business since 1994. At the time, it was Singapore’s first independent fine-dining spot. It was founded by  like-minded friends – hence the name “Les Amis”, “Friends” in English – who loved France, its culture and cuisine. The chef here is Sebastien Lepinoy, who has been in charge since 2013. He uses only prized seasonal ingredients, sourced from all over France. In 2016, he made Les Amis one of just six restaurants to be rated two-stars when the Michelin Guide debuted in Singapore. And that was not all! In September 2019, just weeks after we dined here for the first time, the dining spot was promoted to three stars.

Regarding our recent experience at Les Amis, food wise, it even exceeded our (skyhigh) expectations.

Food experience at Restaurant Les Amis Singapore

It was a true epicurean experience from A to Z at Restaurant Les Amis Singapore, one highlight followed another. As mentioned we opted for the Tasting Menu, which came in 13 parts. In contrast to most other fine-dining spots, bread plays a major role throughout the dinner. The experience started with a large loaf of Sourdough Bread that was presented before us. After enjoying a slice with their Beillevaire Artisanal Butter, already the snacks came with another piece of bread, a mini croissant. Next was one of my personal favorites of the meal, Parisian Style Egg Mimosa with Oscietra Caviar from Sologne. Again, it was paired with a small baguette. Minutes after the course was served, another savory pastry arrived. And then it was time to make our choice from a richly stocked bread trolley. It was delivered after the fish course, Line-Caught Turbot form L’Île-d’Yeu.

A granita made of five different summer herbs cleaned the palate. Then the dinner proceeded in the same excellent vein it started! A fabulous Duck from Vendée with Foie Gras made up the main course. Eventually, the cheese trolley appeared, from which the maître d’ put together two plates for us to share according our wishes. And of course, bread came with it as well. The pre-dessert was their signature dark chocolate tart, decorated for the occasion. An Apple Soufflé with Calvados and Cider Ice Cream followed. Finally, the feast was rounded up with a few petit fours.

Before leaving the restaurant, it was time for a visit to the wine cellar – as last time. Again, it was filled with an astonishing selection of French wines.

 3. Cédric Grolet Singapore

Back story Cédric Grolet

Now to the star patissier Cédric Grolet. As already mentioned he did his most important career step at the restaurant at Hotel Le Meurice in Paris when he became head pastry chef in 2013. At the time, the restaurant was helmed by Yannick Alléno (from 2003 to 2013) who got three Michelin stars in 2007. When Alain Ducasse took it over in 2013, he gave Grolet the chance to create the desserts on his menu. Although Le Meurice lost its third star three years later, this seemed to have no negative impact on the head pastry chef’s further career. Alain Ducasse gave him two tasks. First, he wanted him to cut back the sweetness and instead highlight the natural tase of the ingredients. Second, he should create desserts that stimulate the senses. And so Cédric Grolet specialized in fruit-based desserts that look identical to the real fruit.

In 2018, he was named the “World’s Best Pastry Chef” and opened his first pastry shop within Le Meurice Paris. A second one in Paris followed soon, then three more in London, Singapore and Saint-Tropez. And he expanded his product range from sculpted fruits to piped floral pastries, croissants and others. In 2025, the successful entrepreneur opened his latest shop, and this in Monaco at Hôtel de Paris Monte-Carlo. At the same time, he also joined as the executive pastry chef for this venue.

My history with Cédric Grolet

Although I am not an avid social media user, I became aware of Cédric Grolet on Instagram. Here he has been publishing posts about how he makes his appealing sweet creations for ten years. From what I read, he meanwhile has over 20 million followers. Plus, he leads a team of 450 employees. I found this impressive and wanted to visit one of his shops on my travels the first time an occasion arises.

To my total surprise, I discovered that there was a Cédric Grolet shop at the hotel my husband and I had booked for our recent Singapore stopover (COMO Metropolitan Singapore). Of course, I took the chance to have breakfast here, which was easy to arrange by the way. In this context I have to admit that I was a bit worried about the outcome of this experience. This was because the Google critics for this spot were not really good. And this was the case not only for Singapore but for at all his other shops I checked. So, I was curious what would be in store for us at Cédric Grolet Singapore.

How it was at Cédric Grolet Singapore

We had booked the first slot in the morning (08:30 AM) on a weekday). Upon arrival, we found the stylish café astonishingly unbusy.

We had pre-ordered a savory breakfast set for 85 S$ (52 SFR/68 US$) per person, which includes a a sweet part too. Alternatively, you can opt for a sweet breakfast set only (60 S$/37 SFR/ 48 US$). And there is also the option to go for à la carte. While this might sound like a lot of money for a breakfast, you get much value for money.

First, they served a giant Croissant, followed by the second (savory) course. Here we could make our choice out of Avocado Toast, Benedict Croissant, Quiche Lorraine or Jambon Beurre (basically a ham sandwich). My husband selected the Avocado Toast, I went for  the Quiche Lorraine. Before I could savor my croissant, the quiche came. And I could not believe how huge it was. The avocado toast was a bit less so but still big. Finally, the sweet part was served. It was about two beautiful waffles paired with vanilla double cream and caramelized pecan custard. I would describe them as normal in size but the accompaniments were rather substantial.

In terms of how everything tasted, the quality met my (high) expectations. I took the Croissant away and had it later in the afternoon. It was still excellent, lighter and less buttery than I expected. The quiche was rich and flavorful, one of the better I have ever had. And the waffles were exquisite (and beautiful), different from all the others I have ever tasted.  Plus, the caramelized pecan custard was heavenly! I spooned up the rest when we finished the waffles … As to the service, it was friendly, subtle and attentive. A staff member brought me more napkins when he thought I could use them, and he was right! The experience we had at Cédric Grolet was wonderful – I cannot fault it at all. And I cannot understand the bad reviews!

Date of stay: September 2025

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The Western Australia trip that brought my husband and me from Exmouth to Esperance – here is the itinerary – was a real challenge in terms of staying in style. The Aussies are not known for appreciating this kind of lodging. Instead, they prefer to travel in a camper. Therefore, the offer of good upscale accommodations outside of Perth is scarce. Nonetheless, I discovered some great luxury hotels in Western Australia, also in its countryside. As you can imagine, the state’s capital has its share of upscale lodging options, yet the one we stayed was a true find!

I let you know in the following about two best-of lists and one addition. The first ranking is about my top three upscale hotels in Western Australia. The second features three promising establishments. Regarding the latter, it is about places with potential, yet with considerable flaws too. And I also want to inform on a property that does not fit into either. Yet it is worthwhile mentioning all the same. It is a simple inn which offers comfort but no real luxury and is very well run.

1. My list of the best 3 luxury hotels in Western Australia

In the following it is about the three best accommodations we experienced on our four-week Western Australia journey. Not surprisingly, the top runner is to be found in the city of Perth. And the other two are in wine regions.

1.1. COMO The Treasury in Perth, the best hotel we stayed in Western Australia

While there is no shortage of luxury hotels in Western Australia’s capital, COMO The Treasury is something special. This 48-room lodging is located in Perth’s newly revitalised historic heart. It is housed in The Old Treasury Buildings dating from 1875 to 1958. Later on, they became the State Buildings, and this until the mid 1990s. Afterwards, they were vacant. That only changed in 2015 when life came back to this property with the opening of COMO The Treasury.

You find here not only luxuriously appointed guest rooms – we got an upgrade to the Studio Suite – ,

but also lots of other facilities. There is a number of restaurants, bars and other venues for business and leisure.

A signature spa with an indoor pool and a gym are also part of the offer. My husband and I were impressed, also by the high-level service and the superlative gastronomy. This is true for Restaurant Wildflower in particular,

but Restaurant Petition was also a good choice.

Thus there is no doubt that COMO The Treasury in Perth was the best hotel my husband and I experienced in Western Australia.

1.2. Grand Mercure Basildene Manor, Margaret River

This was the best hotel we lodged in Western Australia’s countryside. Grand Mercure Basildene Manor in Western Australia’s most famous wine region of Margaret River is a historic property with an old school vibe. It was built in 1912 as a private residence. Later on, it was converted into an upscale hotel, blending its original elegance with contemporary comforts. The hotel’s greatest asset is perhaps its manicured garden sprawling on 14 acres/56 hectares.

Yet also its 19 rooms with garden views and plenty of classic charm are persuasive (we had a King Bath Suite).

When staying here you can make use of a swimming pool, a tennis court and fabulous breakfasts in the conservatory. Also a complimentary afternoon tea is part of the package. And staff was professional, helpful and accommodating on our stay. Everyone was keen to help, without being intrusive. There is no restaurant on site, but plenty of options to eat out in its surroundings.

1.3. The Swan Valley Retreat, Swan Valley

With three guest rooms only and no communal area for having breakfast or so, The Swan Valley Retreat is not a hotel in the classic sense. Yet this adults-only retreat stands out due to features just as a luxurious interior design with an oversized bathroom,

a generous outdoor area

with a private outdoor spa or the access to an outdoor cedar barrel sauna (shared between the Merlot and Cabernet Rooms, the Wine Barrel Room has its own).

And you have great views of a pond with the resident farm animals roaming around.

In addition, you find a Day Spa on site as well as a Padel Tennis Court.

Included in the rate is a breakfast, a light version for the Merlot – where we stayed – and the Cabernet Room. But you can upgrade it to a gourmet breakfast if you wish (included in the Wine Barrel Room). The breakfast items are stored in the guest room’s fridge for you to prepare it yourself. While the property is a little paradise due to its facilities and its serene setting, the fact that you are here in the flight paths of the near Perth Airport lessens the overall impact.

2. 3 hotels/inns with potential in Western Australia

The three hotels/inns that I list here were a mixed bag to us. On the one hand, they have the potential to be really good. On the other hand, their performance was affected by significant weaknesses.

2.1. Mantarays Nigaloo Beach Resort, Exmouth

With its 68 guest rooms Mantarays Nigaloo Beach Resort was the biggest hotel we stayed on our Western Australia trip. It is a nice complex located a bit out of town in a pretty spot by the Sunrise Beach.

The accommodation offer is quite varied from several room types to 1- or 2-Bedroom Apartments to 1- or 2-Bedroom Ocean View Pavilions. As it was the only hotel of our journey directly on the beach, we longed for a room with sea view. Yet as the resort was already well booked – more than 6 months before arrival – , we had to take a 2-Bedroom Ocean View Pavilion.

Once entering the premises, my husband and I agreed it was a good decision. Our room’s setting was dreamlike with the best views of the beautiful coastline.

While the layout was generous, its amenities were alright. I found them rather elementar, you could make more of it. This is also true for the communal spaces, which were okay but not more. The indoor restaurant resembles a dining hall in my opinion. As to the staff, we were received a bit coldly upon arrival. When we dined here at Mantarays Dining & Bar on one occasion (food was good except the dessert, a peanut slice, which was way too rich and sweet), service was friendly yet a bit slow and not very professional.

Overall, we had a good time here, but it is no true luxury you get here. This was so despite the fact that the hotel has the capability to be a top Western Australia hotel.

 2.2. The Premier Mill, Katanning

I was quite astonished to find a superior hotel in what was in my opinion in the middle of nowhere. Katanning is a vital Wheatbelt town, a bit more than a three-hour drive south of Perth. The Premier Mill Hotel has a long and eventful history, from a 19th century roller mill to a power station to a wine cellar. After years of neglect and standing empty, the CEO of Dome Café Group bought it for just $1. And he transformed it into one of Western Australia’s finest luxury country hotel.

Much of the mill’s infrastructure has been kept,

with each room displaying a different element of the building’s history. Out of the 22 accommodations we had a Purifying Room featuring vaulted ceilings and original staircases, which was great. Not only did we like its heritage restoration but also the high-quality bed and linen along with the spacious bathroom with Aesop products. The not so good part was the non-existent closet (only a few hooks for cloths), the insufficient lighting (much too dark) and the A/C that did not work properly.

We did not have dinner at the Dome Café, which you find here of course, but had breakfast, which was okay. For dinner, we went to the Cordial Bar in the basement. Here we enjoyed a selection of delightful tapas and a fine local wine.

As to service, it was good from start to finish – we had only one night here.

2.3. Majuba Country Lodge, Albany

At Majuba Country Lodge we experienced the biggest letdown of our WA trip in terms of staying in style. All the prerequisites for an enjoyable stay were met. Think of a beautiful stylish property,

splendid views of roaming horses and kangaroos around a pond against the backdrop of Oyster Harbor

and a tastefully decorated room with luxurious amenities.

But all this could not make up for what we encountered here. Upon arrival a cute albeit badly behaved dog awaited us and immediately jumped on my husband. The owner, coming from South Africa, remained unfazed although my husband’s trousers were ruined (no excuse). And the dog was a nuisance throughout our stay (trying to get in our room ecetera).

While we could have lived with an annoying dog, I could not accept that our room (Serengeti, the nicer of two) was not clean (partially dirty floor and closet) and that the promise of a continental breakfast was not fulfilled. All we got was a platter with prosciutto, cheese and olives, 4 yoghurts, granola and two packaged pastries. And the offerings were not replenished on our three-day stay. My husband addressed the issue with the owner, but he did not receive our complaint well (“I can bring you some slices of bread”). He told him not to bother, and so we had breakfast in town. Plus, we bought some crackers to accompany the cold cuts, which we had for lunch. Majuba Country Lodge has features that could make it exceptional, but has sadly not realized its potential to be one of Western Australia’s best hotels!

3. A simple yet quality inn in Kalbarri

To end my reporting on our Western Australia’s lodgings I want to mention one that I keep well in my memory. While it was not a luxury place, it was comfortable enough and offered lots of value for money. And I am quite sure, you will not find a better accommodation in the area. It is is about the Kalbarri region, a must for every nature lover traveling WA. It concerns the Gecko Lodge in the town of Kalbarri, a bit more than a 6-hour drive north of Perth.

The inn, a mix between a traditional hotel and a bed and breakfast, is located in a quiet residential neighbourhood.

You are here only minutes away from the beach and the town center. Five rooms are available, one of those is a Penthouse Suite, the other are in some sort of bungalow row houses. While some have extra features as a kitchenette or separate shower and tub, others did not and are a bit smaller. As my husband and I wanted separated beds, we opted for the one and only King Deluxe Double Suite, which was one of the least sizeable. Do not expect luxury furnishings yet good comfort was provided.

While the inn is not new or recently renovated, it is well kept. In terms of facilities, there is a pool, a barbecue area and a sitting room complete with port wine, chocolates, DVDs and books. Sha, the owner/manager is very well organised and offers a delicious breakfast (great fruit bowl) and an afternoon tea with great cake.

She always ensures that her guests feel at ease, and despite the rooms not being serviced every day, she goes the extra mile to fulfils their needs.

Looking back & forward to my Western Australia reporting

My last post was about a 4-week Western Australia itinerary – in style whenever possible. The ones who know the area are certainly aware of the fact how difficult this is! But I tried my best looking out for high-quality lodging and restaurants where they are rare. After informing where to go for staying in style in Australia’s biggest state in this very blogpost, my next covers dining-spots to choose for a nice dinner. The end will make a list of my favorite WA activities.

Date of stay: September 2025

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After long thinking on where the second Australia trip of my husband and me should go, we chose Western Australia. On our first Oceania exploration in 2018, we traveled from Adelaide to Sidney in 15 days and both New Zealand islands in another 15, here are my posts. While we enjoyed it very much, it was quite stressful. This time we longed for a more relaxed journey, meaning staying longer in one place. And we wanted to experience a less visited part of Australia. In terms of destination, our first choice was the north. As it is partly quite difficult to explore by car, my husband voted for the east coast. But I found it too beach-focused. So we agreed on Western Australia, and this to an Exmouth to Esperance itinerary – in style whenever possible.

Travel in style in Australia

Always when traveling, my husband and I long for luxury. We like to stay at nice hotels – here are my WA highlights – and dine at fine restaurants – here are my WA highlights – , as long as they offer value for money. But this is not easy at all in Australia! No offence, Aussies, but travel in style is not necessarily your thing! Australian people love doing their trips in a caravan. Thus they have nice campgrounds but no such hotels.

And they like grilling, so no dining-out. Therefore, there are not many great dining spots around, at least in the countryside.

Regardless of this challenging situation, I managed somehow to put together a four-week Western Australia itinerary in style. You find it in the form of my Google Map with the best hotels, restaurants and activities between Exmouth and Esperance.

My Google Map of a 4-week Western Australia itinerary in style

Details on Exmouth to Esperance Western Australia itinerary 

As we flew into Perth

from Singapore, we started with an urban getaway here, the one and only real one on this trip. After four nights here, we flew to Exmouth, part of the Coral Coast, where we rented a car. After exploring the Cape Range National Park/Nigaloo Reef

we drove further south to Denham. Here the Francois Perron National Park was on our agenda.

Next was Kalbarri where we visited the Kalbarri Nation Park.

We left the Coral Coast behind us and continued to the Turquoise Coast, where we made a stop in Jurien Bay,

two hours north of Perth.

As we already did Perth at the beginning of our journey, we bypassed the city and got via the Wheatbelt

to Katanning,

an agricultural hub. From here we drove on to the easternmost point of our Western Australia itinerary, Esperance on the state’s south coast. Here the Cape Le Grand National Park drew us.

Next was Albany

with another national park, Torndirrup.

Margaret River with its wine region

was the penultimate stop. And before flying out from Perth again, we stayed in the nearby Swan Valley wine region.

How was it getting around by car on our Western Australia trip?

As you can guess from the above Western Australia itinerary, it was quite a long road trip. In total, we made 5,600 km/3,480 mi in just under four weeks. And we did this on paved roads only. However, they were a little bumpy in places, rather narrow and had soft shoulders only in 70 percent of all cases. While there was not much traffic most of times, the described road conditions made it difficult to drive and required a great deal of concentration. Every time a car comes towards you, you have to exercise particular caution. The same is true when you have to overtake a vehicle.

And not to forget the existence of road trains. It is defined on every stretch of road how long they are allowed to be. In our case, the maximum was 47 m/154 ft. If you happen to meet such a giant truck, extreme caution is required. And this not only when you overtake, but also when the road train is on the opposite lane. It may be that you need to make room for it. 

In case you are wondering, the speed limit was 110 km/h / 68 mph. Sometimes, when the roads were curvy, it was 90 km/h / 60 mph. And we had quite a large 4WD (an upgrade),

originally we had booked an AWD. But no worries, you need neither of them here. While our rental car fitted well on the Coral Coast (north of Perth), it was way too big south of Perth, where smaller cars are more common and appropriate.

In what season did we do this Western Australia itinerary?

We traveled the state of Western Australia from end of August to end of September, starting in the north (Exmouth/Nigaloo Reef), then heading south. While this timing is ideal for the Nigaloo part, this is a bit less so for Perth and further south (we were a bit too early). The latter is especially so in case you are interested in activities around sun, sea and sand. However, if you are a nature lover or hiker, then September is usually ideal. It is supposed to be the perfect time for incredible wildflowers

and pleasant walking but also for wine tasting, should this be your thing.

As to the weather in our case, it was great on the Coral Coast but not so good around Perth and in its south. From what we heard, the September here was wetter than usual. Having said that, we almost never encountered days filled with rain only. It was rather an on-off thing with alternating half hour shifts of sun and rain. And wind played a role as well.

Generally speaking for a Western Australia itinerary, March to October is ideal for Exmouth. Go in April to July for whale/shark watching and pleasant weather. Visit in September and October for wildflowers and fewer crowds. As to Perth and further south, aim for April and May or October for the sweet spot of great weather. Yet March, September and November are also good for warm, sunny days, fewer crowds and wine events.

Which lodging choices did we make on our Western Australia trip?

In total, my husband and I had 26 lodging nights – here are my WA highlights – on our Western Australia trip. We stayed at a number of hotels, some bed-and-breakfasts and two rental properties. As to the latter, we almost never opt for an apartment or a house when vacationing. We only go for this option if there are no suitable hotels or inns around, precisely if they are not comfortable enough or not well-rated. And this was true in our Western Australia trip in two places. First, we did not succeed on the Turquoise Coast, around Jurien Bay and Cervantes,

two hours by car north of Perth. Second, Esperance

on Western Australia’s South West coast was a tough nut to crack in this aspect too. Thus, we decided to rent in these two spots: Jurien Bay and Esperance.

What is next regarding more Western Australia posts?

Often when doing one of these “My Google Maps”, I add details about all the places we went in the correspondent post. This time, I limit myself to provide a rough route of our Western Australia itinerary only, see earlier in this blogpost. When it comes to specifics such as which lodgings and dining we chose and what activities we did, please refer to the mentioned map. I included all of them along with a short description and a number of pictures. In terms of more reporting on this journey, I will write three more posts with best-of lists. This will be about the top hotels we stayed, the finest restaurant we dined and our favorite activities on our Western Australia trip.

Date of stay: September 2025

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After elaborating on general aspects of a trip in style to Taiwan – planning, one-week and two-week itinerary – , it is about the best luxury hotels on this island. On a recent Taiwan journey across the country, my husband and I stayed at six of the best upscale accommodations. While we liked all of them, they did not equally excel in all areas. So, it was possible to choose my personal highlights among them. Find in the following all you have to know about my three lodging favorites in Taiwan. Two are city hotels (Taipei and Kaohsiung), one is in the countryside (Sun Moon Lake, center).

Before delving into the best luxury hotels in Taiwan, some general facts in the context of booking (luxury) hotels on this island.

What to know about booking (luxury) hotels in Taiwan

Whereas there are lots of luxury hotels in the big cities on Taiwan’s west side, this is not so when leaving this part of the island. As the majority of travelers to Taiwan go to the same few locations when doing so – Taroko Gorge, Sun Moon Lake, Alishan – , you find high-end lodging in these spots too. Said that, Alishan makes an exception here. From what I learn, the accommodations here are neither ubiquitous (they sell out fast) nor can they be considered as good (old and overpriced). As to the other places mentioned, there is a choice of upscale hotels, however not a wide one.

When it comes to rates, I found that the city hotels on the island’s west side (Taipei and Kaohsiung) usually offer good value for money. I have read that people from Japan, Hong Kong or Singapore come here “to live it up” at Taipei hotels, which they often could not afford in their own countries. I personally found our Taipei accommodation (Mandarin Oriental) reasonably priced, and this much in contrast to most of their branches in Europe! And our hotel in Kaoshiung (Silks Club) even was a bargain.

However, as to luxury hotels outside of cities, they cost more. We paid quite some rates, both in the Taroko Gorge (Silks Place) and Sun Moon Lake (The Lalu). But as mentioned, almost every traveler to Taiwan comes here, and there is not much competition.

I start with two of the best luxury hotels in Taipei and Kaohsiung before continuing with my personal lodging highlight in the Sun Moon Lake area.

1. Hotel Mandarin Oriental Taipei, one of the best luxury hotels in Taiwan

Mandarin Oriental is for sure one of the best luxury hotels in Taipei if not in the entire country of Taiwan. And it also is one of the newer ones (opened in 2014). In contrast to the buildings of its competitors which are often made of concrete, glass and steel, it is somewhat unique. It is reminiscent of Medieval European architecture, albeit it definitely is a mix of different styles from several countries. You find here for example a dome like in Florence or fountains just as in Versailles. Without doubt, is an impressive property designed to impress.

Location

Mandarin Oriental Taipei is located on Dunhua North Road, Taipei’s main boulevard, in the Songshan District. While being in downtown Taipei in one of several business districts in town (financial industry), its situation comes handy enough yet is not exceptionally good. It might be favorable for domestic travelers as it is near the Songshan Airport (5 minutes by car), for others – especially leisure travelers – it is not so. This because it is a bit away from the main tourist sights. Said that, it is close to the next MRT (7 minutes by foot), which is a great plus. In addition, the neighborhood seems to be in transition. You find here new buildings but also lots of such ones soon to be demolished.

Ambiance/Staff

The hotel exudes an upscale ambiance. This is true not only for the elegant entry hall but also THE ARCADE, the adjoining shopping complex. While the latter appeared a bit without life on our visits, it is remarkable with its glamorous shops along marble floors and the striking Italian-like courtyard plaza. For Western Europeans, the whole property might seem a bit too much in terms of opulence and eclecticism, yet it definitely is a sight to behold.

The staff is as excellent as you would expect at a hotel of this caliber. The standard of service never fails to impress, be it at the reception, at the M.O. Bar or at Café Un Deux Trois where they serve breakfast. Each and every staff member we got in touch with had a good command of English. And that was a rarity on our Taiwan trip. Staying at Mandarin Oriental came closest to a typical western hotel experience. All the other accommodations we lodged at in this country had more Taiwanese touches.

Rooms/Pricing

Out of the 330 rooms in total, you can choose among an array of categories. As to rooms, it starts with the Deluxe Room (55 sqm), then goes over the Mandarin Room (70 sqm) to the Mandarin Premier Room (70 sqm). Then, there is a number of suites. All accommodations are also available as Club versions, i.e. with access to The Oriental Lounge. As you may have noticed, all the rooms are oversized.

My husband and I opted for the Mandarin Premier Room. What it differentiates it from the Mandarin Room is the fact that it has two rooms. You find onsite a private master bedroom plus a living area.

The bathroom is generous, clad in marble and with a bathtub as well as a large walk-in shower.

The toilet (a Japanese version) is separated from it. The space is classically furnished with plush carpets and modern touches. And you have the benefit of a city view. The rate was 411 SFR/US$ for two per day with full breakfast (in March 2024).

We loved our Mandarin Premier Room. The one thing that I did not like was the lack of storage room. But this seems to be a general problem at hotels inTaiwan. Almost all the properties we stayed at made the impression of being designed for a short stay only. In addition, we often also encountered – at Mandarin Oriental Taipei too – “fake” furnitures where you could not store anything (?).

Restaurants at Mandarin Oriental Taipei

You find here six restaurants. Ya Ge is their flagship one serving Chinese food in an elegant ambiance and holding a Michelin star. Plus, there is Bencotto for contemporary Italian cuisine in a relaxed setting and Café Un Deux Trois where you get international cuisine in a casual atmosphere. For light meals, you can choose among The Jade Lounge (afternoon tea), M.O. Bar (drinks and snacks)

and The Mandarin Cake Shop (cakes and patisserie).

I have to admit that we only had breakfast at Café Un Deux Trois, which was fabulous. The space is huge, lively, and tables are packed close together. Yet staff tends to seat Westerners at quiet spots, which was appreciated by us.

We had seriously thought about booking a table at their Chinese place Ya Ge. It gets good reviews and is adequately priced. Ultimately, we opted to explore the dining scene outside the hotel to get a feel for “real” Taiwanese food culture.

Other facilities

Of course, Mandarin Oriental Taipei leaves nothing to be desired when it comes to spa and wellness! It boasts one of the most luxurious spas in town (3,500 sqm). There are heated water experiences, 12 treatment rooms, a yoga studio, a spa boutique, relaxation facilities and a 20-m/66 ft outdoor swimming pool.

Overall Mandarin Oriental Taipei as one of the best luxury accommodations in Taiwan

Mandarin Oriental Taipei is possibly the best luxury hotel in Taipei or even in Taiwan. Together with the adjoining shopping complex THE ARCADE it is a large-scale undertaking. Its opulent and eclectic Medieval European architecture is impressive yet might be a bit too much for Western Europeans. Everything at this glamorous hotel is of the highest standard. You almost cannot find fault with it. And the rates are affordable compared to many other MO branches in Europe. The only thing that I find slightly subpar is its location. It might be favorable for local business but not so for leisure travelers. Yet the proximity of the MRT somewhat compensates for this disadvantage.

2. Hotel Silks Club Kaohsiung

Hotel Silks Club in Kaohsiung, Taiwan’s most southern big city, was a real find! I had long thought about where to stay on the island’s south-western coast. Originally, I had been inclined to opt for Tainan, as it is probably the best city to experience Taiwanese history and culture. But none of its upscale hotels could fully persuade me. So, we settled for the nearby more cosmopolitan city of Kaohsiung.

And we did not regret it! We even considered our choice of accommodation as one of the best luxury hotels in Taiwan! Plus, we had three nights here, so we could use one of it for a day trip to Tainan.

Location

Silks Club sits in the heart of the Asia New Bay Area waterfront redevelopment, a bit south of the city center. While the hotel is not so centrally located as I had wished for, its situation can still be considered as good. It is within walking distance of two MRT stations and a Circular Light Rail station. You reach the Kaohsiung Railway Station and the Kaohsiung International Airport in about a 20-minute drive. To get to the Taiwan High Speed Rail Station allow more time, maybe 25 to 30 minutes by car (traffic can be heavy).

Having uttered some criticism about Silks Club’s location, they are in good company. Its two main competitors, InterContinental and TAI Urban Resort are nearby. And great restaurants are within easy reach as well as shopping opportunities (Dream Mall, Taiwan’s largest department store).

Ambiance/Staff at Silks Club Kaohsiung

Silks Club, opened in 2017, is part of the The Silks Hotel Group. This is the largest and most profitable hotel group listed on the Taiwan Stock Exchange. It operates the Regent Taipei and five other hotel brands, among them Silks Club and Silks Place. While the latter is about cultural luxury lifestyle hotels, the former is into art, design and boutique. This focus already shows when entering the premises of Silks Club Kaohsiung. You are immediately captured by the “Dancing Particles” (watch video when they are dancing: E378E91F-C384-436E-B2C4-36C67895026E_2_0_a ART+COM Studios) in the lobby.

The motion art sculpture features 168 metal spheres that float and dance above a pole of water, amazing! But there is more, works of over 200 artists are showcased throughout the hotel.

Apart from all the art that appears everywhere, the hotel’s interior design is remarkable too. It is a masterpiece in minimalistic magnificence. I would go so far as to say that is the most beautiful sleek, urban hotel I have seen lately. More to some features in the sections about rooms and restaurants.

As to the staff, I can only say respectively write positive things about it. That starts with the concierge/bell desk – where we chatted a few times to a nice employee –  and goes over to the staff at the restaurants as well as the hotel maintenance workers we were in touch. All were trained in the way of generous spirit. We felt well looked after and did not have to worry about a thing.

Rooms/Pricing

Silks Club Kaohsiung extends over 29 floors and features 147 guest rooms. There are only 6 to 10 units on each floor, and 3 elevators are at your disposal. As to room categories, the offer ranges from Deluxe King/Twin (59 sqm) to Premier King/Twin (66 sqm), Studio Deluxe King (63 sqm), Junior Suite King (80 sqm) and several suites.

My husband and I had chosen the most upscale room (not suite) with a twin bed. And that was a Premier Twin. What a great accommodation that was! We were on the 25th floor with wonderful city views. Not only it was spacious, but also outfitted with state-of-the-art comforts. These included special measures towards sound- and lightproofing, North American oak flooring and premium Italian handmade mattresses. It was kept in neutral hues with cool blue toned accents.

The bathroom was huge and made of marble. Separated from the oversized sink area there was a bath tub with view plus a shower. And yet in another (separated) part the toilet.

And imagine, all this came for the rate of 265 SFR/US$ for two per day including a full breakfast (April 2024)! The only thing that was suboptimal in our room was the slightly insufficient air-condition in the bathroom. It cooled down the adjacent walk-in closet rather than the sink area.

Restaurants

In terms of restaurants there is the fine-dining space of Ukai-tei with the adjoining Dassai Bar as well as the In Jade Lounge and Bar.

The latter is destined for breakfast, afternoon tea as well as drinks and snacks in the evening. The former offers a lunch and a dinner service. It is about the first overseas restaurant of the Japanese brand Ukai-tei. In Kaohsiung, you can choose among three dining-rooms, designed by interior designer Hashimoto Yukio: Ukai-tei Teppanyaki,

Ukai Kaiseki and Grill Ukai Kaohsiung. They are connected by a stunning spiral staircase. It came per ship in one piece and was placed into the construction before building the restaurant around it.

Breakfast at the In Jade Lounge was lovely. We could make our choice out of five set menus served on a tray.

In addition, we could help ourselves from a buffet. As to dinner, my husband and I went to Ukai-tei Teppanyaki where we had our own chef who prepared a fabulous Ukai Signature Wagyu Menu before our eyes.

Out of the three Japanese Wagyu main courses, we decided on the middle of three options (Sirloin for 5800 TWD / 161 SFR/US$; Rump/Tenderloin would have lost 4,800/6,500 TWD / 133/181 SFR/US$). That made it the most expensive meal of our Taiwan journey!

Other facilities

The hotel boasts a Valmont Spa, a sauna area, a well-equipped gym and a semi-open-air infinity pool. The latter can also be used for parties or events. Also the In Jade Lounge serves as a multiple function room for events of all kind.

Overall Silks Club Kaohsiung as one of the best luxury hotels in Taiwan

I have rarely seen a city hotel that is so cool, urban and stylish. Already the 4D kinetic art installation in the lobby set an example for what to expect at Silks Club Kaohsiung. And this continues throughout the hotel. They showcase art works from a mix of local artists and renowned international names that is unparalleled. Also the two-story Japanese restaurant with its unique spiral staircase is a sight. And the modern generously sized rooms are a traveler’s dream! Yet it is not only about style here, but the substance is persuasive as well. Service is immaculate, food is great, and facilities are state-of-the-art! Moreover, this high level of quality comes at a reasonable room price. However, the Signature Wagyu Menu at Restaurant Ukai-tei Teppanyaki has a high price tag. Notwithstanding that, Silks Club Kaohsiung is definitely one of the best luxury hotels in Taiwan.

3. The Lalu Sun Moon Lake

The Lalu on the Sun Moon Lake in the country’s center makes it into my top three luxury hotels in Taiwan because of the beauty of this place. While many aspects as to this accommodation were convincing, others were not. Even though, my husband and I were in awe of this stunning hotel with its unmatched lake views, serene ambiance and intriguing history.

Location

I already gave a spoiler, The Lalu’s location on the Lalu Pensinsula on Sun Moon Lake’s northern coastline is breathtakingly beautiful. It is situated at the foothills of the Central Mountain Range, just by the island’s largest body of water. Next to the small peninsula there is the main tourist village in the area, Shuishe. You get here either from the Taiwan’s west side (Taipei, Taichung or Kaohsiung) or from the east side (Taroko Gorge/Hualien). My husband and I did the latter, arriving by rental car. While this is a wonderful drive through the mountains (allow at least four hours), it is no easy thing (winding and narrow roads).

Ambiance/Staff

What started as a modest cabin in the Japanese colonial time, became later an official government guest house under the Japanese Crown Prince Hirohito and later under President Chiang Kai-Shek. In 20o2, it opened as a luxury hotel. It was rebuilt from the original palace, saving only its beams, columns and floor. All the rest was replaced. The architect in charge was the Australian Kerry Hill who had already designed several Aman hotels. His premise for The Lalu was “Ongoing style”. And in my humble opinion, he succeeded. The hotel is as fresh as it was when built. It is timeless design in perfection.

An interesting detail with The Lalu is the importance of lighting, which was integrated into the planning from the outset. At daytime for example, seven lighting changes occur at different times and in different settings. And you really notice, the hotel’s appearance seems to fluctuate during the course of a day. Yet, it is always a serene, harmonious place. Gazing at the lake from here has such a calming effect on you.

As to the staff, not everyone seems to feel that magic. Whereas the front desk’s performance was immaculate, this was not always the case at the bar and the restaurants. More details on that follows in the section about restaurants.

Rooms/Pricing

There are 96 rooms in total. All to them are suites, sizable (at least 83 sqm) and have a separate living room. An exception here are the Courtyard Pool Villas (333 sqm), which have instead a lounge, a courtyard and an outdoor dining pavilion (there is a handful of them). The least expensive room is the Courtyard Suite – where lake view might be obstructed. The next more expensive is the Lakeside Suite 2nd to 3rd floor, then follows the Lakeview Suite 5th to 7th floor. The top end accommodation is the above mentioned Courtyard Pool Villa. Plus, you also find onsite Lakeview Suites with two bedrooms.

We had opted for a Lakeview Suite on an upper floor and were delighted by ours on the 7th floor! The room was kept in a minimal Zen-like design with lots of wood. There was a spacious, tastefully furnished living room,

which was separated from the bedroom by the television and a closet.

The bathroom was in granite with a large bath tub. And the balcony spanned the full length of the accommodation, offering absolutely stunning lake views. Lying on the outdoor daybed (for two) and letting our gaze wander was such a relaxing thing to do!

The rate for this Lakeview Suite amounted to 599 SFR/US$ for two per day including a full breakfast.

Restaurants

There is quite a choice when it comes to restaurants at The Lalu. Open to the public are The Lake View Chinese Restaurant (fine dining)

and the Oriental Brasseries (Asian & Western contemporary cuisine in a relaxed ambiance). The other three only admit hotel guests and members. It is about The Japanese Restaurant (modern cuisine & Teppanyaki),

The Lobby Bar (drinks & snacks)

and The Tea House (snacks, desserts & tea, only at daytime).

We had breakfast at the Oriental Brasseries, which was solid but not really exceptional. Then we had dinner at both the Chinese

and the Japanese place.

While food in both places was good, the service was not. At the former, we were poorly advised about how many dishes to choose. At the latter, the servers put the dishes in front of us without any explanations (set menu). And at the bar, the bar maid was not welcoming, and this on two occasions. Bottom line, service at the restaurants at The Lalu leaves much to be desired – that is a pity!

Other facilities

You find a spa in the hotel’s east wing where you are in here for massage treatments, saunas, steam rooms, a gym and a hot spring. And there are complimentary yoga classes. The infinitive pool lined with lots of sun beds is great. It is 60 m/ 197 ft long and offers splendid lake views.

Overall as The Lalu as one of the best luxury accommodations in Taiwan

The Lalu is an absolutely stunning property in an unbeatable location with wonderful lake views. The rooms are beautiful and spacious. This is true for most of its communal spaces too, the lobby, the bar or the Japanese restaurant (however some limit the access to hotel guests and members). Also the pool and the adjoining tea house are feasts for the eyes. The front desk service is immaculate, but the one at the Chinese and the Japanese restaurants as well as at the bar do not meet the standard of a high-end five-star property. In terms of food, we had good although not really memorable dinners at the above mentioned dining spots. Regardless of The Lalu’s flaws, it definitely is part of the best luxury hotels in Taiwan.

What about the other three hotels of our Taiwan trip? 

As hinted, we stayed at six luxury hotels on our Taiwan trip. And you already know that we were in favor of all of them. If you want to know more about the individual places, check out my Taiwan one-week and two-week itineraries. Follow the links below:

• Silks Place Taroko
• Gloria Manor Kenting
• Grand View Resort Beitou

Looking back and ahead on my Taiwan journey

So far, I have published considerations to make when planning a (luxury) Taiwan trip, a one-week itinerary (Taiwan’s north) and a two-week itinerary (whole island, the one my husband and I did). Next on my blog – and the last Taiwan post – is about my three restaurant highlights in this country. And they are all fine-dining spots, as we consider ourselves as gourmets. It is our aim to indulge in great food not only at home in Switzerland but also when traveling. Yet we always have an eye on value for money too!

Date of stay: April 2024

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Now it is to the details of a two-week Taiwan itinerary. My last post was about a one-week travel plan comprising the island’s north. If you have two weeks at your disposal, then you can also travel Taiwan’s south. Plus, you have the option to build in one more stay in the north. Such a travel plan allows you to take your time and to explore sights in the respective surroundings too. Again, I only included stops that ensure travel in style. That means places where you find options for staying at luxury hotels and dining at (Michelin) gourmet restaurants. Yet – as always – , I only considered establishments offering value for money.

There are six stops in total. Compared to the one-week itinerary that I described in my last post, there are three more. Two are in the south (Kenting National Park and Kaohsiung), one is in the north (a second Taipei stay). Find in the following my Google Map of a 17-day road trip in Taiwan that my husband and I did. It can be shortened to 14 days without any problems:

Overview on my Google Map of our 17-day Taiwan itinerary

As you could see, we started and ended the journey in Taipei with four stops in-between. The first stop was on the Island’s northeast, at the Taroko Gorge near the seaside town of Hualien. Then we traveled inland to Sun Moon Lake in the foothills of the Central Mountain Range. We continued towards south to the Kenting National Park. And before returning to Taipei, we had our one and only stay in a big city apart from Taipei, and this in Kaohsiung.

As I already went into the first three stops in my mentioned one-week travel plan, you find in this post about a two-week Taiwan itinerary only explanations to the last three ones (Kenting National Park, Kaohsiung and north Taipei). Again, I start with a short description of the respective town/region. Then I let you know what to do here in a few sentences. Finally, I go briefly into each of the high-end hotels we stayed and the (Michelin) fine dining spots we ate.

A 17-day Taiwan round trip with six stops in style

See details to stop 1 – 3 here

4. Kenting National Park (south, 2 nights)

About

The Kenting National Park occupies the entire southern tip of the country. And while Kenting is said to have the best beaches in Taiwan, they are subpar to those of typical beach destinations. Nonetheless, the area boasts a lovely coastal scenery and is well worth a full-day exploring.

Things to do here include: walk in the Sheding Natural Park with its huge coral rocks (volunteers guide you around if you wish), Sail “Nixon” Rock, Taiwan’s southernmost point, Longpan Park (great coastal views)

and Hengchun (old city wall with four ancient gates,

Old Street

with Patisserie Ce Moment).

Hotel: Gloria Manor

This is yet another property that has a connection to the former president Chiang Kai-shek. It used to be one of his presidential guesthouses. And this is easy to understand in light of the picturesque mountain and sea scenery you find here. The hotel is remotely located inside the Kenting National Forest Recreation Area, surrounded by tropical greenery.

Gloria Manor took over the site in 2012. The building convinces with minimalistic design that blends nicely into the natural setting. You find here 60 rooms in a range of categories. Yet it does have to be one with a sea view as this is probably the main attraction of staying here.

Breakfasts are excellent, you can make your choice out of several ones served on a tray.

And you can have it also in the pleasant outdoor area. Mu is the only restaurant on site, find some details below.

Restaurants: Mu Restaurant (at Hotel Gloria Manor)

At Gloria Manor’s Mu Restaurant you get excellent Taiwan cuisine with a modern twist. And the place strictly adheres to the principle “not in season, not on the menu”. The setting is relaxed yet still with an upscale touch. My husband and I dined here on both evenings and liked what we got. Good choices from the à la carte menu were Wonton Soup, Crab Omelet, Fried Rice with Pineapple & Dolphinfish, Mango Pomelo Sago or Baked Pudding.

There is also a set menu (1,680 TWD / 47 SFR/US$).

5. Kaohsiung (south, 3 nights)

About

Kaohsiung is Taiwan’s third most populous city and is home to the island’s largest port. While it long used to be an industrial city, it has been reorienting itself toward tourism as well as art and culture since since the turn of the millennium. This shows in the vast Pier-2 Art Center where former shipping warehouses were turned into shops and cafés. And there are museums, art installations and street art. I for one liked the dynamic vibe of Kaohsiung!

As to more classic sights here, the scenic Lotus Pond in the north of the city is an good place to go. It is known for its 20 temples or so along the shoreline and nearby.

And there is the Confucius Temple too. Another big name attraction in the area is the Fo Guang Shan Monastery, outside of town, which is the largest in all of Taiwan and quite a sight.

Last but not least, we used Kaohsiung for a day trip to Tainan. This is Taiwan’s original capital and still retains a traditional vibe. Go to the city center first (Confucius Temple, Hayashi Departement Store, Snail Alley & Shennong Street, two quaint streets;

then proceed to the Anping District (Anping Fort, Anping Old Street, Anping Treehouse).

Hotel: Silks Club

Silks Club is one kind of a cool, urban hotel, attracting business and leisure travelers alike. It is located in the emerging neighborhood of Qianzhen, opened in 2017. Already the sleek lobby with the reflecting pool of water impresses.

And it continues when it comes to the rooms. The 147 units have an average size of 66 sqm, floor-to-ceiling windows and oversized bathrooms.

The place for breakfast is In Jade Lounge – you get it on a tray plus there is small buffet, and it is a tasty affair.

You can also come here for drinks in the evening. The restaurant, a branch of the Japanese Ukai Tei, is divided into several sub-spots (Teppanyaki, Kaiseki & Grill). Find more info on the former below.

Restaurants: Ukai-tei Teppanyaki (at Silks Club), Marc L³ & Sho

For our Kaohsiung food adventures, my husband and I chose three Michelin dining spots. One even has a Michelin star (Sho), two are on the 50Best Discovery list (Sho & Marc L³).

I start with the “hotel restaurant”, Ukai-tea Teppanyki, where they serve a Wagyu menu (Rump 4,800 TWD, Sirloin 5,800 TWD, Tenderloin 6,500 TWD). We opted for the Sirloin (161 SFR/US$) and could witness quality ingredients being cooked on the iron plate right before our eyes. And we even had a chef who exclusively cooked for the two of us! That was quite an experience, especially when it was up to the preparation of the abalone (from live to death).

Our favorite dinner in Kaoshiung and probably on our whole Taiwan trip was the one at Marc L³. The three L’s stand for Live x Liberal x Limitless. Reservations here are difficult to get, and we had to pay our meal in advance (which was not a no-brainer to arrange). Yet, once seated at the counter (9 seats only), we were in for culinary magic! Unique French fare was prepared in front of us, and this as eight-course menu (3,960 TWD / 112 SFR/US$) in a relaxed ambiance.

And the chef is such a nice guy too, communicative, approachable and amiable! What a great evening we had here!

Dining at Sho, an outpost of the Tokyo famed Den Restaurant, was a epicurean highlight as well. We were treated to an exquisite Japanese meal with creative touches. Quite in contrast to Marc L³, it took place in a somewhat chilly ambiance. The place – a counter with 14 seats – had an almost clinical appearance. Notwithstanding that, we truly enjoyed the tasting menu (3,500 TWD + rice upgrade 700 TWD / 119 SFR/US$). And if you are wondering about the rice upgrade, go for it! It is a traditional rice dish cooked in an iron pot called a kama, once with Wagyu and the other time with scallops.

6. Taipei (Beitou District, north of the center, 3 nights)

About

Our second stay in Tapei was in Beitou, the capital’s most northern district. While it is not too far away from Taipei’s center (half an hour by MRT), it has a less urban feel. The hilly area is known for its hot springs and is close to beautiful nature.

We had planned to explore Taiwan’s north from Beitou. Yet we only managed to do one such day trip because of not so good weather. And this was to Jiufen,

a seaside town in the lush mountains northeast of Taipei (book a Taiwan tea time at Jiufen Artist Teahouse, expensive yet worthwhile;

escape the crowds by hiking the Jinguashi Aqueduct Trail). We left out the second one to Yangmingshan National Park on Taipei’s northern fringe. Instead, we headed to central Taipei once again, to the University District. And it was lively, even on a Sunday. And do not miss the sights in Beitou: Thermal Valley, Puji Temple,

Beitou Library, Xinbeitou Historic Station.

Hotel: Grand View Resort Beitou

While Beitou is not the first address for first timers to Taipei seeking to explore the city to the fullest, it was ideal for our purposes. Having already done the capital’s major sights, we longed for a quiet place to spend our last few days in Taiwan. Staying here is the best of both worlds: being in relative proximity to Taipei’s center and at the same surrounded by nature.

Grand View Resort Beitou is the most luxurious among the many hot-spring hotels that make use of the sulfurous hot-spring water that bubbles from the ground. The relatively large and modern property (opened in 2011) stands high on a slope with beautiful views of Beitou and beyond.

All the 66 guest rooms are spacious and come with hot-spring bathrooms, allowing a private soaking experience. I think the accommodations could use a little touch up, especially the wet area (the moisture from the hot springs does not help).

Breakfasts are really good here, served on a tray. And they even offered another variety on our third day. There are three restaurants, from which we tried out two (we did not eat at Aqua Deck with light continental food). Find more details in the next section.

Restaurants: Chinese Cuisine & C’est Bon (both at Hotel Grand View Resort)

We had dinner every evening at Hotel Grand View Resort Beitou. As I had read good things about the Chinese Cuisine – it is Michelin listed – , we went there twice.

One evening, we tried out the French place, C’est Bon.

While both offered fine food, we found C’est Bon better. We had a lovely dinner here indulging in immaculately prepared French food with a Taiwanese twist. Out of the four set menus, we ordered the one with Boston Lobster (3,080 TWD / 87 SFR/USD$), and we relished it.

As to the Chinese place, we had a not so good dining experience on our first evening. Whereas the food was good (we had opted for à la carte), service and setting were less so. Everything was better on our second dinner – we had the Vegetarian Set Menu (2,280 TWD / 64 SFR/US$). Yet C’est Bon has our love!

Looking back and ahead on my Taiwan journey

The start made some considerations to bear in mind when planning a (luxury) Taiwan trip (my post), followed by a proposal for one-week itinerary here. This is actually the first part of the journey my husband and I did on this island. It includes the three major travel highlights in this country, Taipei, Taroko Gorge and Sun Moon Lake. As luxury traveler and  fine dining lover, I also give recommendations as to where to stay and dine in style. In addition, I go into what to do in all theses places, plus some ideas for side trips. In this very post, you get the same thing, yet for the second part of our trip. Taken together, you have info on our original 17-day itinerary (that you can shorten to a 2-week Taiwan itinerary). Next on my blog, you will find out about my personal hotel and restaurant highlights in Taiwan in some more details.

Date of stay: April 2024

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While my last post went into general considerations to make when planning a Taiwan trip, this one is about a concrete one-week itinerary. When my husband and I toured beautiful Formosa – as it was called by its discoverers – , we actually had 17 days at our disposal (for the whole island). Yet, you can shorten the journey to one week (north only). This still allows you to see the island’s three major highlights – Taipei, Taroko Gorge and Sun Moon Lake. And my one-week proposal is about a Taiwan trip in style, meaning staying in luxury hotels and dining in (Michelin) gourmet restaurants (if available).

Before coming to the details of the three individual stops, here my Google Map of this one-week Taiwan trip.

Overview on my Google Map of a 1-week Taiwan itinerary

No Taiwan trip is complete without exploring its capital of Taipei. While I put it as first destination on my Google Map, you can of course also do it at the end of the journey. The second stop is on the Island’s northeast, at the Taroko Gorge near the seaside town of Hualien. Then you travel inland to Sun Moon Lake in the foothills of the Central Mountain Range before returning to Taipei.

I start with a short description of the respective place. Then I let you know what to do here in a few sentences. Last but not least, I go briefly into a high-end hotel and some nearby (Michelin) fine dining spots.

A 1-week Taiwan round trip with three stops in style

1. Taipei (Songshan District, near the city center, 3 nights)

About

Taipei is a must for every Taiwan traveler. You find here a fascinating mix of Chinese, Japanese, indigenous and western influences. And although it is a deeply urban place, nature is never too far away. So, it is the ideal starting and/or ending point for your island exploring.

When it comes to activities, Taipei 101 for a view of the city and the Elephant Mountain for a view of Taipei 101 are musts for first timers to Taipei. Also the political Taipei around the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall has to be on every traveler’s agenda.

Further things to do are the Dihua Old Street,

The Dalongdong Baoan Temple

and the nearby Confucius Temple.

Hotel: Mandarin Oriental Taipei

Before setting off on our Taiwan round trip, we lodged at the Mandarin Oriental in the Songshan District. This business district (financial industry) is an okay location for exploring Taipei, however not the most ideal one. Most sights are in the following districts: Zhongzheng, Wanhua, Datong, Xinyi and Da’an. And Songshan is slightly too far north and east compared to the before mentioned ones. Yet, you are close to a MRT station and once on the subway, you get everywhere quickly enough.

As to the hotel, it is opulent indeed. While being a newly built complex (opened in 2014 together with THE ARCADE, a shopping center), it is reminiscent of Medieval European architecture in an eclectic style.

The 303 guest rooms are more spacious than at its competitors. They are classically furnished with contemporary touches and boast generous marbled bathrooms.

And you get a fabulous breakfast at Café Un Deux Trois, a modern buffet style restaurant. Service is as excellent as you might expect it with this prestigious hotel group. And rates are affordable enough, in contrast to many other MO hotels in Europe.

Restaurants: Holt & Hosu

UPDATE: Restaurant Holt’s website is no longer available

We did not have dinner at Mandarin Oriental Taipei – except some small bites in the M.O. Bar after a late arrival on our first day in Taiwan (which were good).

Instead we had decided on two Michelin listed restaurants in the adjacent neighborhood.

Holt is a one-star Michelin restaurant offering exquisite contemporary European food. On our evening, they still served creations by Canadian chef Jeffery Downs, although he had already left for good in the direction of his home country. We were told that they are now in a rebranding process.

The tasting menu we got (3,980 TWD / 112 SFR/US$) was one of the trip’s highlight food wise delivering very high quality.

While Holt was really great yet very European, we were keen on trying food prepared in a more Taiwanese way. So, we had opted for Hosu, a modern Taiwanese dining spot, which is Michelin listed. And we were delighted by this cute little place whose name means “Good Island”. They served a tasting menu (2,880 TWD / 81 SFR/US$) that surprised at every turn.

2. Taroko Gorge (northeast, 2-3 days)

Currently largely closed due to earthquake in April 2024!

About

Taroko Gorge is one of Taiwan’s top scenic attractions. It is a steep valley created by the Liwu river and makes part of the Taroko National Park. The first 18 km/11 mi of Highway 8, coming from Taiwan’s east coast, are what is known as Taroko Gorge. The thing to do here are hikes of various lengths. Usually one full day is enough to get quite a good insight. My husband and I stayed three nights here, and this right inside the gorge.

As to actual things to do, be advised that usually one or more sights or trails are closed (it is a geologically active site). So, check what is open before you go. We did the following activities (on one full day): Swallow Grotto (short walk), Buluowan Suspension Bridge (crossing the bridge only), Eternal Spring Shrine Trial (closed, you could only walk to the first Shrine), Baiyang Trail to Water Curtain Cave (we did not go in, one and a half hour),

Lushui Trail (only a short part, closed after Small Cave).

The second day, we made a day trip to the Hualien area and a bit more in the south direction. It lead us along the east coast to Qixingtan Beach, Qizingtan (quaint seaside town), Baqi Viewpoint (nice),

Jiqi Beach, Fengbin Skywalk (closed) and Xin She Rice Terraces. Then we returned inland via the towns of Guangfu, Fenglin and Shoufeng. Here we made a side trip to Liyu Lake before going back to the Taroko Gorge.

Hotel: Silks Place Taroko

Closed until mid 2024 due to earthquake in April 2024!

As announced, the hotel is located within the Taroko Gorge. Precisely, it is in Tianxiang, a small village at the top of the gorge, about one hour from Hualien City. If you value the best possible situation for exploring the Taroko Gorge, then you are right here. The property used to be an official government guest house under the regime of president Chiang Kai-shek. In 2010, it opened after a renovation as Silks Place Taroko.

While the hotel’s exteriors are not necessarily a feast for the eyes, its interiors are nice, kept in a contemporary style. The 160 rooms are split over two floors, the Retreat Floor and Resort Floor. The former are more luxurious and offer access to the top floor Retreat Lounge where complimentary snacks and drinks are served all day.

As a Retreat Floor guest, you can have breakfast at either the Wellesley Buffet or the Retreat Lounge (served on a tray). For dinner, you can choose between the mentioned Wellesley Buffet or the Chinese Restaurant. Details to both of them follow in the next section.

Restaurants: Mei Yuan & Wellesley Buffet (both at Hotel Silks Place Resort)

As to the food at Hotel Silks Place Taroko, it was not the best we experienced on our Taiwan trip yet still decent enough. We had opted to be on half board and had to choose where we wanted to have dinner twice. As we do not like buffet restaurants, we went to the Chinese restaurant Mei Yuan on two evenings. And we had Shabu Shabu Hot Pot both times, yet we did not mind. This because it was prepared with good quality ingredients (which are boiled in a pot with soup in front of you).

When it comes to the Wellesley Buffet, we were quite a bit underwhelmed by the experience. Again, the quality of food was high and there was a wide range of culinary options. And the staff ensured that the buffet was kept immaculately.

Yet, it was like being in a bee house, with guests buzzing around and voices overlapping in every direction. It was not like something I expected from a five-star property.

3. Sun Moon Lake (center, 2-3 days)

About

Sun Moon Lake, at the foothills of the Central Mountain Range, is the island’s largest body of water. It is at an altitude of 762 m/2,500 ft and a hugely popular destination. And it is indeed a beautiful scenic view.

There are two lakeside towns, Shuishe village (more touristy) and Ita Thao (home of the Thao aboriginal tribe).

If you wonder what to do here, you can go boating, hiking, cycling and stand-up paddle boarding. However, swimming is not allowed (except at the annual mass swim). As to sights, visit the Wenwu Temple (view from the grounds above it towards the lake is splendid),

walk up to Ci En Pagoda (climb up to the top of it for the view) and go to the Antique Assam Tea Farm (self-guided tour, café & shop).

In case you have two full days in Sun Moon Lake as we had, consider a day trip to the Alishan High Mountain tea fields. Here Taiwan’s most famous tea (Oolong) grows. A good place to spend  a day is the small mountain village of Shizhuo. You can make the most beautiful hikes on the Shizhuo Trails System,

buy tea at the Lin Yuan Tea Factory (oldest tea grower in the area) and make a side trip to another village, Fenqihu (old street).

Hotel: The Lalu Sun Moon Lake

This is yet a former official government guest house of president Chiang Kai-shek. After extensive renovations, it was opened as a luxury hotel in 2002. And this is quite a property! It occupies a peninsula next to the Shuishe village. The hotel spans three buildings that blend harmoniously with the surrounding forested hillside. You have fantastic lake views from almost everywhere at the hotel. It is of a timeless Zen-like design.

All the 96 rooms except some stand-alone villas face the lake

and are exceptionally roomy.

Breakfast is served in the Oriental Brasserie and consists of a huge buffet with a diverse food offer, although it is not so geared towards western tastes. In terms of dining, five restaurants are at your disposal, although some only cater for room guests and member. Find out more about how it is dining at their two flagship dining-spots below.

Restaurants: The Lake View Chinese Restaurant, The Japanese Restaurant (both at The Lala) & KEN CAN by Ken Chan (at Hotel Fleur de Chine)

Both, the Lake View Chinese Restaurant and The Japanese Restaurant, were not as good as I had hoped for. While both offered good food, other aspects were not that satisfying. As far as the Chinese place (à la carte) is concerned, neither the banquet hall-like setting nor the service – we were poorly advised – were persuasive.

However, the Japanese spot (set menu at 3,600 TWD / 101 SFR/US$ with U.S. beef fillet) has an attractive setting (no view). When it comes to service, it was not much better than its Chinese counterpart (not many explanations to the food).

The good news in the Sun Moon Lake area is that there is an excellent gourmet restaurant around at the competitor hotel of Fleur de Chine. It is about KEN CAN by Ken Chan.

It is the second spot of this three-star Michelin chef at Hotel Palais de Chine in Taipei. If you are a foodie and have only one evening in the area, then dine here! We were delighted by the creative Cantonese set menu (3,980 TWD / 112 SFR/US$) as well as the courteous and informative service.

Looking back and ahead on my Taiwan journey

While this post went into a one-week itinerary of a Taiwan trip in style, the next is dedicated to a two-week one. Whereas the former only goes to the island’s north – yet covers the country’s three major highlights – , the second brings you to whole Taiwan. This longer journey has the same stops as the before mentioned Taiwan one-week itinerary plus three more. I started my reporting on this island with some considerations to make when planning a luxury trip to this island (my post). Two more blogposts to follow will highlight my personal highlights in terms of high-end lodging and (Michelin) fine dining restaurants.

Date of stay: April 2024

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Is Bhutan on your bucket list for your next vacations? Then I have not only lots of travel information about the Land of the Thunder Dragon for you (see next section), but also suggestions where to go for a pre- or post-Bhutan stay in style. Doing so is for all those a necessity who come from a distant country of origin. When my husband and I went to Bhutan recently, we flew via Bangkok. Thus, we opted for staying in Bangkok before flying to our final destination. On our return to Bangkok, we drove on to Hua Hin, a seaside resort south of the capital, for a few quiet days on the beach.

After a short look at my Bhutan mini series, you will find more details from which cities you can get to Bhutan (Bangkok is not the only option). Plus, there will be some advice where to stay at great luxury hotels in those places. Then I come to the actual topic, my pre- and post-Bhutan stays in Thailand.

My mini series about Bhutan

As announced, there is more content on my blog about visiting Bhutan. I started with a travel guide, continued with a perfect 9-day itinerary and informed about touring the country by arrangements of the three luxury hotel brands operating here. As we had opted for COMO as a provider – alternatives are Aman or Six Senses – , you learn in a further post how it was. And just now, I am setting the end point of my Bhutan mini-series, detailing opportunities for ideal pre and post travel plans.

From where to fly to Bhutan?

As mentioned above, you can fly to Bhutan via Thailand. When my husband and I did this at the beginning of April, there were no direct flights from Bangkok. Instead, the plane made a short stop in Dhaka/Bangladesh – where you could stay on board. At the time, you could only fly to Bhutan once a day, and this starting at 5 am and landing in Paro/Bhutan at 08.30 am. The flight was carried out by Drukair, one of two airlines flying to the Land of the Thunder Dragon.

Alternatively, you may fly into Paro from India. When doing so, you may choose between Delhi, Kolkata, Guwahati and Bagdogra. As I can safely assume that the first one is your best choice as a Westerner, here are suggestions as to where to stay in Delhi. And when you are in the area, do not miss a side trip to Agra/Taj Mahal. This is such a worthwhile thing to do!

Another option is it to fly via Singapore. Here is advice which hotel to choose here as a discerning traveler. Finally, you may fly to Bhutan via Kathmandu/Nepal (where I have not been to).

Pre- & post-Bhutan stays in Thailand

As my husband and I have never visited Thailand before, we appreciated the chance to get to know this destination a bit more. We settled for three nights in Bangkok and four nights in Hua Hin, a beach town in Bangkok’s south. While this may sound of quite long stays for stopovers, it actually was not. This because of two reasons. First, we had to leave our hotel in Bangkok at 2 am in the morning of our third night to catch our flight to Bhutan. Second, after returning to Bangkok from Bhutan, we only arrived at our hotel in Hua Hin at 9 pm.

While Bangkok was given as pre-Bhutan stay from the outset,

we thought longer about our post-Bhutan one. We contemplated flying to Kos Samui (flight time 1 h 05 min) or Phuket (flight time 1 h 20 min), Thailand’s most popular vacation destinations. Yet, we were daunted by the thought of more flights. As to upscale beach towns not too far away from Bangkok, there is not much around. Pattaya Beach, the city of sins (2 h by car), was not really an option for us. So, we decided to give Hua Hin (3-4 h by car) a try.

A pre-Bhutan stay in Bangkok

We had heard much about Bangkok, the good and the not so good. Yet, we were positively surprised about its vibe. Of course, it is a modern city nowadays, with lots of skyscrapers and traffic. Yet, if you search hard enough, you find some glimpses of the “old” Bangkok too. While traffic is bad at many times, the drivers are usually well behaved. And yes, at the beginning of April, we had already missed the best travel time for Bangkok (November to February).

When it comes to staying in style in Bangkok, there is an immense number of options. I have not really looked into it as our hotel was fixed from the beginning. Only so much, if I were free to choose I would opt for a luxury hotel by the river

not far away from the Grand Palace and Wat Arun (maybe Mandarin Oriental, Four Seasons or Capella). In our case, we made use of a special combination offer by COMO Hotels and Resorts (our choice for Bhutan lodging). Actually, we had two nights free at their Bangkok branch, COMO Metropolitan. And here is how it was.

Hotel COMO Metropolitan Bangkok

As I outlined above, booking COMO Bhutan for your touring the Land of the Thunder Dragon comes along with special rates at COMO Metropolitan Bangkok (just send COMO Buthan an email). My husband and I happily took the occasion as we had liked our stays at other COMO branches (London, Miami).

COMO Metropolitan Bangkok was built in 2003 and last renovated in 2016. It is a modern high-rise building with 11 floors featuring 169 rooms.

Location

While I rate its location in the central business district of Sathorn as good, I personally think it is better to stay near the Chao Phraya river. This allows you not only to see river life close up but also brings you in proximity to ferries. And traveling on the water is often faster and more relaxing than by other means of transport in this city plagued by traffic. And the latter is especially bad on Sathon Road, where the COMO hotel is located. That said, it is situated in a quiet side street where you are not exposed to noise.

Whereas you need about 40 minutes to reach the river by foot, you are only ten minutes away from the nearest metro station (MRT, Blue Line, Lumphini). Plus, there are numerous great restaurants nearby. And one of the best rooftop bars in town, the Moon Bar at Banyan Tree Hotel, is just round the corner.

Rooms/Pricing at COMO Metropolitan Bangkok

You find quite a wide range of room categories at COMO Metropolitan Bangkok: City Room (26-39 sqm, from 123 US$), Studio Room (43 sqm, from 138 US$), Metropolitan Room (51-54 sqm, from 146 US$), Terrace Room (80 sqm, from 174 US$). Plus, there are three different kind of suites. Price wise, you get away inexpensively. This is especially true compared to luxury front river hotels just as the three I mentioned above. These will easily cost you double or triple.

As mentioned, we spent three nights here, at a discounted rate. And we had a Metropolitan Room Twin.

Metropolitan Room

Our room was on the highest floor with a beautiful view of the central business district of Sathorn.

As to its style, it is sleek with clean lines and neutral colors. While it is predominantly kept in a western style, you also find the one or other eastern accent.

The bathroom is spacious, with the same view as the bedroom. There is a large open shower and a separate tub, all in limestone.

Unfortunately, there is only one, rather small sink, although you could have made two of them without difficulties (enough space).

My husband and I felt at ease here as the room was generously sized and offered lots of natural light from the floor-to-ceiling windows.

Ambiance/Staff at COMO Metropolitan Bangkok

There is an atmosphere of calm and pleasant minimalism throughout the property. As to the rooms, you clearly notice a western vibe yet discreetly paired with eastern touches.

Staff at the reception and the doormen were friendly, helpful and attentive. When it comes to the restaurant (Nahm, modern Thai), I have mixed feelings. As to breakfast, we had no issues.

Dinner was a bit different. While everyone around us got one dish after the other, we had to wait one hour for our amuse bouche. When we inquired about the delay, we got an unsatisfactory response from the waiter. Once the dinner (tasting menu) finally took off, there was an ongoing coming of plates (many at the same time). And the last one was served in less than an hour from the starting time! This is not what a tasting menu is supposed to be! On the positive side, food was good.

Plus, at one time, a friendly female maître d’ came by the table to chat to us.

Facilities/Restaurants 

On site you find a wellness center, the largest of all COMO city hotels. It comes with ten treatment rooms, a 25 m/82 ft outdoor lap pool, a fitness room, a yoga studio, steam rooms and hydro pools.

As to dining at COMO Metropolitan Bangkok, I already mentioned their one and only restaurant Nahm. You get here a modern take on traditional Thai fare. I will go into this Michelin one-star restaurant in more details in a separate post to come about fine dining restaurants in Bangkoks’s Sathorn district.

A post-Bhutan stay in Hua Hin/Thailand

Before singling out Hua Hin as our destination for a relaxing time on the beach after our Bhutan journey (see above), I have never heard about this place. As I learned later, the rather provincial town of Hua Hin has become a popular getaway for both locals and tourists. And this not least to its easy accessibility from Bangkok.

What once began as a quiet fishing village, turned into a summer retreat for Thai royalty in the early 20th century and later also drew Bangkok’s nobility. Nowadays, lots of upscale second homes line the beach front.

As to the latter, it does not earn a prize for being one of the most beautiful ones in Thailand, yet it is not too bad either. The most known is Hua Hin Beach, which stretches for about 5 kilometers (3 miles). It is nice for a long walk, although, in certain parts, much of the beach disappears during high tide.

Aside from being a beach resort, Hua Hin is known for its night markets, numerous golf courses and wellness offers. If you want to do some sightseeing, I would not qualify it as super ideal for this purpose.

As to staying in style, there are some places that fall in this category. Yet, you are not really spoiled for choice here. Now to where my husband and I resided during our four-night stay, and this was at The Barai.

Hotel The Barai Hua Hin/Thailand

While The Barai was opened as standalone luxury hotel and spa in 2007 by Hyatt Hotels, it became affiliated with the adjoining Hyatt Regency Hua Hin Resort in 2012. It is very boutique, with eight suites only.

Location

The Barai is situated about 4 km/2.5 mi south of downtown Hua Hin. I would not encourage you to walk to the town center as the way leads along the busy, nondescript main road. However, you might think about doing so along the beach, for which you need about an hour.

By car, you reach downtown in about ten minutes, but only if traffic is light. This may not be the case on evenings and weekends.

As to other attractions nearby, there are two night markets, open from Friday to Sunday. On the one hand, there is the Cicada Market for predominantely non-food products like art, jewelry, clothing and handcrafted things. On the other hand, you find here the Tamarind Market for foods.

Rooms/Pricing at The Barai Hua Hin

There are eight suites in four two-storey villas.

In case you opt for downstairs (The Barai Pool Suite) as my husband and I did, you are in for a verandah,

plunge pool and garden.

If you go for upstairs (The Barai Balcony Suite), you have a balcony (5 sqm) with sea view.

Both have in common 101 to 144 sqm of space, an oversized king bed (3 m/10 ft wide!),

an entry hall with daybeds, a dining area as well as separate coffee and tea stations,

a huge bathtub with two oversized daybeds,

two individual walk-in closets with bathroom for him and her and a sizable shower (with steam function).

Included in the room rate are a butler service, a daily 60-minute massage treatment for two, an in-suite aromatherapy steam and milk bath (prepared by your butler), laundry service for two items per day, as well as full breakfast, all-day beverages, pre-dinner drinks and snacks (all served at Restaurant McFarland House).

The total package is really impressive! The Barai Pool Suite (101 – 124 sqm) is available from 541 US$, The Barai Balcony Suite (144 sqm) from 495 US$. Another accommodation is also part of the The Barai, the Presidential Pool Villa. It is suitable for a maximum of six adults and comes with a private pool, garden and beach as well as kitchenette, study room and dining table for eight persons (434 sqm, rate upon request).

Ambiance/Staff

As a guest at The Barai, you have to check-in and check-out at the “regular” Hyatt Regency, all the rest is separate. On the hotel’s premises, you also find a restaurant (McFarland House, see below), which is – of course – open to the public. It is the place where you have breakfast when staying at The Barai. Those from other parts of the Hyatt premises may also do so if they wish, but not within a bed and breakfast package. On our four breakfasts, there were never many other people around. It always felt quiet, as it was the case throughout The Barai property. It really had an exclusive feel!

What stood out at The Barai was the excellent butler service. Their staff already got it touch before our stay to arrange bookings for the included daily massage. After check-in at the main reception, a butler picked us up and gave us all the necessary information on the hotel. Every morning, someone from them checked on us during breakfast. When our daily massage came up, one of the team appeared to accompany us to the spa. They also reconfirmed our dinner reservations, organized transport to the restaurants and picked us up to bring us to our car driver.

As to the other staff, the one at the McFarland House was friendly enough. At the spa, we only had contact with the masseuses, who were immaculate (the administrative part at the reception was done by our butler).

Bottom line, it was a very pleasant stay in beautiful and serene surroundings, being pampered all day long!

Facilities/Restaurants

As I already mentioned here at several occasions, the spa plays an important role at The Barai. The name goes back to barays, large reservoirs created by the Khmers for use of their daily life. They were considered as life-determining, yet also a source of their spiritual wellbeing. Here at The Barai, these barays are remembered, both in the construction of the spa

and the tranquility court, a 30 m-/100 ft-long unique swimming channel in a court.

As to the spa treatments, they marry traditional Thai rituals and innovative western therapies. 18 single and double treatment rooms are on offer here at this maze-like red building, where the light is caught to reflect the elements of earth, water, air and fire. All the massages we experienced here were expertly executed, enhanced by the building’s special architecture.

The restaurant on the premises, McFarland House, was already a topic in other sections of my post. It is a two-story pavilion on the beach front, dating back to the 19th century.

It was home of Dr George Mc Farland, a man of many merits for Thailand. Parts of his original house were incorporated in the new building. It is a casual all-day dining venue. On the menu you find modern comfort food plus some healthy options. My husband and I only had breakfast here, which was enjoyable. We especially liked the Energy Bowl, the freshly pressed juices and the inventive egg dishes.

It goes without saying that you can also make use of the facilities and restaurants at the other Hyatt hotels onsite. Yet, we did not see the need to do so as we had with The Barai the perfect sanctum of serenity at our disposal. That said, we ventured to town to have dinner. A future post will go into three fine dining spots we visited.

Looking back and forward on my blog

This was the last of five posts on my Bhutan travel reporting, which went into following topics: travel guide, 9-day itinerary, travel plans of luxury Bhutan hotel brands, COMO Bhutan journey and pre-/post-Bhutan stays.

As announced, there will be some more information about Thailand. As my husband and I are serious foodies, we made sure that we enjoyed ourselves in this respect in Siam too. Find more about our culinary Bangkok and Hua Hin adventures soon on my blog.

Date of visit: April 2023

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After giving an overview on the three luxury hotel brands with multiple locations in Bhutan, now to one of them. It is about Hotel COMO Bhutan, the choice of my husband and myself for our recent stay in the Land of the Thunder Dragon. It consists of two hotels, which are part of a family-owned group of hotels and resorts worldwide. In the following, you will learn how it is traveling the Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan on a journey arranged by COMO. In this post, the focus will be on the properties, the hotel life and the organization of the trip. As to the itinerary, I already went into this topic earlier on my blog (a perfect 9-day Bhutan itinerary).

Before delving into the COMO Bhutan properties plus another affiliated one, first to two other things. First, a look at my mini series about Bhutan. Second, a short introduction into the luxury hotel brand of COMO Hotels and Resorts.

My mini series about Bhutan travel

This very post is the fourth in my mini series about traveling Bhutan, the mystic land in the Himalayas. The first was a travel guide, followed by the above mentioned itinerary and the overview on luxury hotel brands operating in the field of multi-destination journeys. Next on my blog, opportunities for a pre- or post-Bhutan trip will set an end point to my Bhutan mini series.

Backstory of COMO Hotels & Resorts

COMO Hotels and Resorts is a Singapore-based company with a portfolio of 16 properties worldwide to date. It was founded in 1991 by Christina Ong, born out of a simple need. She sought an intimate hotel in London, which was stylish yet also intuitive and discreet. At the same time, it should have a sense of place, but also with a distinct and personal character. Furthermore, she wanted this hotel to have a restaurant with healthy and high-quality food. So, she brought COMO The Halkin on a quiet street in Belgravia to life.

This was also the first property of this luxury hotel group where my husband and I stayed at. And this already on two occasions (my post). We also spent some time at their hotel in Miami Beach.

Furthermore, we already had booked a stay at COMO The Treasury in Perth/Australia before we had to cancel it because of the COVID-19 pandemic. And we also know COMO Metropolitan Bangkok, where we resided prior to our Bhutan visit (more follows soon on my blog).

While all the 16 COMO Hotels and Resorts share the same values, they honor their respective location. Their portfolio consists of island resorts, hotels in urban heritage buildings and two boutique brands, COMO Metropolitan and COMO Uma. As to the Metropolitan properties, I already mentioned the one in Bangkok. There is one city hotel more, and this in London. With regard to the Uma brand, it is about small resorts with adventurous locations. Bhutan has two of them, in Bali there are two more.

COMO Hotels and Resorts Bhutan

In contrast to its competitors of Aman and Six Senses (see my comparison), COMO limits itself on two properties only. One is in the Paro Valley near the country’s only international airport, the other in Punakha Valley.

When my husband and I booked our Bhutan journey about four years ago (initially for April 2020, finally postponed to April 2023), Hotel COMO Bhutan partnered up with a hotel in a third valley, the Gangtey respectively the Phobjikha Valley, at the time. Nowadays, this option is no longer listed on their homepage. Instead, they offer as third accommodation a stay at a fully serviced overnight camp.

Now to what to expect when staying at following three hotels: COMO Uma Paro, COMO Uma Punakha and Gangtey Lodge. For our Bhutan travel plan, check out my perfect 9-day-itinerary in a separate post. Regarding tour organization (journey with a private guide), there will be more information under point “4. COMO Bhutan private tour organization”.

1. COMO Uma Paro

Location

This is the COMO property first opened in Bhutan, and this back in 2004. It nestles on a hillside, among a pine tree forest, with a fabulous view of Paro Valley. You can reach it in only ten minutes from the airport, the last bit is on a rough road through the forest.

Rooms/Pricing at COMO Paro

29 rooms are available, including nine villas. As to the rooms, you can make your choice out of three categories: Forest View Room (25 sqm, from 530 US$), Valley View Room (32 sqm, from 675 US$) and COMO Suite (95 sqm, from 915 US$). In terms of villas, you may opt either for the One-Bedroom Villa (92 sqm, from 1,100 US$) or the COMO Villa (300 sqm, from 1,850 US$). Dinner is included in the prices mentioned.

My husband and I spent four nights here, two to start our COMO “journey”, two to end it. The first time, we stayed at Valley View Room, the second time – we were granted an upgrade because we had been holding our reservation for three years, paid in advance – at a One-Bedroom Villa. Here are the details.

Valley View Room

While this room is not exactly spacious, it is practically furnished, and this in a traditional Buthanese style. There is a small balcony from which you have a great view of the Paro Valley.

Artisan-crafted woodwork and hand-painted walls add to the rustic character of the guest quarter.

The bathroom is not large yet features a tub and a separate shower.

All in all, you find here everything you need as a demanding guest, but you definitely cannot call it super luxurious. And it is a bit on the cramped side.

One-Bedroom Villa

Too little space is for sure no problem at the generous One-Bedroom Villa. Ours even had a second bedroom (king bed) with its own bathroom.

All the villas are situated in the pine forest, at a good distance from each other. That comes along with no view of Paro Town or the Valley. However, you enjoy here lots of privacy.

Apart from the sizable bedroom

there is a living room appointed with a dining table and a Buthanese Bukhari (fireplace).

Adjacent to it, is a small kitchen with a second (butler) entry. The One-Bedroom Villa has yet another room, where treatments can take place (we did not have this one, but as mentioned a second bedroom).

The bathroom is huge, coming with double sinks, a free-standing tub, a closet, a separate shower and toilet plus a comfortable seating area.

And there is a large outdoor area, the so-called verandah. As to the decor, it it similar to the above mentioned Valley View Room. An additional feature are the hand-knotted rugs from Nepal. Residing at a One-Bedroom Villa also has the benefit of a personal butler service.

Ambiance/Staff at COMO Paro

On our first stay, there was lot going on at the hotel because we happened to be here during the Paro Festival. Staff was friendly yet sometimes a bit stressed. Instead of an à la carte service at the restaurant there was a buffet to help yourself from it.

When we returned on the end of our Bhutan trip, there was “courant normal”. It was a less hectic atmosphere yet there was not really a contemplative mood. Probably, the hotel is not small enough to provide a calmer state as it is the case at the sister hotel in Punakha. While service was hospitable and polite, it was sometimes a bit on the impersonal side, especially at the reception desk.

The General Manager (for both COMO hotels) showed presence on both our stays. He is clearly dedicated to his job yet has a bit of a didactic nature and seems always to be very busy.

The last evening we spent here, was not overly pleasant. When we arrived for dinner, only one of the Bukharis (Buthanese fireplaces) in the public spaces was lit. So, it was quite cold not only at the restaurant, but also at the bar and in the lobby area. As a consequence, we had to settle near the reception – by the only lighted fireplace – to have an after dinner drink.

Facilities/Restaurants

COMO Uma Paro is the hotel group’s flagship lodge in Bhutan. The main building used to be the home of a Buthanese nobleman, and it really is quite a sight. Onsite you find two courtyards, an upper and lower one, an indoor pool,

a Shambala Retreat (spa), a fitness room,

a yoga studio, meadows, woodlands, a plant garden and an archery ground.

As to dining, there is the Bukhari Restaurant inside a round building, which also seems to be a favorite of the king.

They serve Western, Indian and Buthanese dishes here, made from organic and locally sourced produce. And we usually liked what we got, opting almost always for Asian food.

Maybe it was sometimes not spicy enough. But we often felt at hotel restaurants in Bhutan that they play it safe when it comes to this. You have to know in this context that Buthanese people like their food very spicy. So, I think they “tone it down” sometimes a bit too much, at least for our taste. And one more thing, the hot dishes on the buffet service (only during Paro Festival) were consistently not hot enough!

In case you care for small bites, you can also have them at the Uma Bar. Here you get all-day dining, and you can also book the premises for private gatherings.

2. COMO Uma Punakha

Location

This is the second and last COMO property in Bhutan to date. It was opened in 2012, yet apparently it was originally meant to do so in 2004, together with its sister hotel in 2004. From what I heard, the worldwide financial crisis of 2008 impeded this.

The hotel is set in a terraced hillside at the western end of the Punakha Valley, a lush, subtropical vale. From here, you overlook a bend in the Mo Chhu (Female) river. COMO Punakha is pretty remote, which is a major part of its charm. You reach it from Paro in a four- to five-hour drive.

Rooms/Pricing at COMO Punakha

It is an intimate place, with elven rooms only. There are eight rooms and two villas.

There is only one accommodation category, the Valley View Room (27 to 34 sqm, from 675 US$). As to the villas, there is a smaller (51 sqm, price to be inquired) and a larger (90 sqm, price to be inquired). The rates include the dinner.

My husband and I spent two nights here. It was the second stop of our COMO “journey”. And we had a Valley View Room.

Valley View Room

While there is only one room category, the accommodations slightly differ depending whether they are on the ground floor or one below. The former have large French windows – which can only partly opened – , the latter a balcony. The rooms on the ground floor benefit of a wider view, also to be enjoyed from the shower.

Some of their counterparts one floor down may do so from the tub.

I liked the room better than the one at Paro (of the same category). This because it feels airier and has a lounge area from which you can take in the fabulous views of terraced fields and river. As to its furnishings, it is similar to the one at its sister property, although of more recent date. The room shares the same somewhat minimalist style yet it feels cozy after all.

Ambiance/Staff

I preferred the ambiance at COMO Punakha over the one at Punakha. It was much more serene and calm than the rather busy one at the sister hotel. Right when stepping through the entrance gate, you could feel it. It seems like the quiet of the surrounding nature casts a spell upon everyone, the guests yet also the staff.

As to the latter, service was immaculate throughout our stay. Often when returning from an excursion, one staff member magically shows up bringing along your room key right to the entrance! Yet everywhere on the premises it made the impression that they could read every wish from your eyes. The praise includes the resident manager, a lovely Thai lady, who regularly enquired how we were doing.

Facilities/Restaurants at COMO Punakha

The hotel is not as well equipped as its sister property in Paro. For example, it does not feature a pool. This not only in contrast to COMO Paro, but also to the other luxury players on site. Although, you find here a COMO Shambala Retreat (spa). Here it is highly recommended to have a Buthanese traditional hot stone bath.

The restaurant goes under the same name as the one in Paro, Restaurant Bukhari. Apart from a dining room there is also a nice outdoor area. The same is true for the adjoining bar/lobby.

As to the culinary aspect, the offerings are similar to those at its sister hotel in Paro, yet I found the cuisine here a tad better.

I especially was more in favor of the breakfast you get in Punakha. There is no buffet, everything is served. The daily baked pastries, the lassis of the day or the hot item options just as the ricotta French toast were just great!

3. Gangtey Lodge Gangtey/Phobjikha Valley

The Gangtey Lodge in the Gangtey respectively Phobjikha Valley is not part of COMO Hotels and Resorts. Yet when we booked our Hotel COMO Bhutan “journey” (see concept/itinerary), there was some sort of collaboration.

It actually is one of the few independent boutique lodges in Bhutan, established in 2013 by owners Khin Omar Win and Brett Melzer.

Location

When approaching, it does not become clear at first sight that a hotel awaits you here. This because the Gangtey Lodge is designed in harmony with the local village and the 17th-century monastery, which are both just a short walk away. The building looks like a traditional farmhouse, albeit a grand one.

You are here at the beautiful Gangtey or Phobjikha Valley, as it is known formally. It is about a wide glacial vale full of meadows and farmland, bounded by the Black Mountains. The remote area can be reached from Punakha in a three- to four-hour drive or directly from Paro in four- to five-hour drive.

Rooms/Pricing at Gangtey Lodge

There is only one room category, the Farmhouse Suite (46 sqm). And you find only 12 of them here.  Just as at COMO Punakha, you are in here for an intimate ambiance. In terms of rates, they start at 660 US$ (half board) respectively 720 US$ (full board).

Farmhouse Suite

This was definitely the most beautiful (and largest) room of our Bhutan trip, featuring a large lounging area, fireplace and freestanding tub. It is kept in a Buthanese style, coming with dark nature tones and cozy fabrics.

And the views are commanding, from the valley over to the village and the monastery. Plus, the room has underfloor heating, and the bathroom is spacious.

Our room was on the lower of two floors in the house north of the main building. For best vista, I would recommend an accommodation on the upper floor at the other guest quarters, nearer to the Gangtey village and monastery.

While I was very much in favor of our room’s look, I was not overly satisfied with some practical aspects. Among other things, you could not open the windows properly as the tub in front of it hinders doing so.

Ambiance/Staff

It is an extremely hospitable hotel. Upon arrival, the general manager, Anja Zok, a nice Polish lady, welcomed us at the entrance. She gave us a present, a traditional ceremonial scarf, and accompanied us to the main lodge. Here staff greeted us with a song, a welcome drink and a shoulder massage. I could not imagine a much better start!

Also what followed, was persuasive. Staff tried their best to make us welcome on every occasion. When coming back from a hike, they offered to clean our hiking boots. Or they asked after dinner whether they should light a fire at our room’s fireplace. And Chef Soh, the long time cook here, went to great lengths to stand by my side because of digestion problems I had at the time. Kudos to the team!

Facilities/Restaurants at Gangtey Lodge

There is a double-height lobby/lounge/dining room with big picture windows

allowing a stunning view of valley,

village and monastery.

Here you also find two big inside/outside stone fireplaces, which makes the terrace usable year-round.

This central meeting point is open from early in the morning until late in the evening. You may show up here whenever you feel like it, for just sitting here by the fire or for meals.

There is a bath house where you can try out a hot stone bath, an ancient Buthanese bathing ritual. Or you can choose from a number of massages. You also find an archery ground on the premises. In addition, there is an array of options to immerse more in the environment, be it in the areas of nature, spiritual, dining and culture.

As to dining, I already informed you about the location and the chef, now it is about the food. You eat here well. For dinner you can either order the “Southeast Asian Set” or choose from an à la carte menu with western and Asian dishes. As to breakfast, you can help yourself from a small assortment of continental breakfast items on a table. Plus, there is a limited à la carte menu to choose from (no sweet options).

4. COMO Bhutan private tour organization

After outlining already several times in my Bhutan reporting about traveling this country via a private guided tour by one of three luxury hotel brands (my post), now to some details how it is doing so with COMO Hotels and Resorts. For the itinerary we chose, check out my corresponding post.

The Hotel COMO Bhutan tours usually include accommodation (full board), a private guide and driver for transport and excursions, all fees and one massage. In addition, this provider can also handle the necessary Bhutan visa and flights via Druk Air or Bhutan Airlines on their customers’ behalf. So, it is actually an “all inclusive” arrangement.

If you should not find your desired itinerary on the COMO Bhutan website, you can also get in touch with them to plan a tailor-made journey.

Our COMO Buthan private guided tour

On our 9-night-itinerary, Kuenzang (guide) and Damchoe (driver) were assigned to us.

While the former is permanently employed by Hotel COMO Bhutan, the latter is a free-lancer. We were told that there are no fixed guide-driver teams at this provider. Instead, they constantly make new pairings. As to the one we got, we could not have been more happy!

While our travel plan was set, there was still room for changes to be made. My husband and I, for example, asked for walking the area whenever possible or not to start too early in the morning, if not necessary. And Kuenzang happily complied with our wishes.

As to his way of touring, he is an easygoing, humorous person yet also showed seriousness when indicated. Of course, he has a wide knowledge as to Bhutan, but he shared it with us on a bit-by-bit basis without overwhelming us. He always was super friendly, helpful and considerate. We would not have wanted anybody else to show us around in Bhutan! And his grasp of English is excellent.

As to our driver, Damchoe, he is nice person too. Whereas he rather stayed in the background, he chatted with us occasionally (never while driving), and was always gracious. And the most important thing of all, he turned out to be an excellent driver!

Postscript to our guide Kuenzang: guiding besides COMO Bhutan

Kuenzang Tobgay offers his services as a tour guide also as a free-lancer. And he is able to put together tours for visitors looking for good hotels without wanting to spend a fortune too! If you should be interested in exploring Bhutan with him – highly recommended – , contact him on Instagram or Facebook.

Looking back and forward on my blog

My Bhutan mini series started with a travel guide, followed by a perfect 9-day itinerary and an overview of travel plans offered by the three players in the country’s luxury hotel segment. And the current post focuses on how it is traveling the Land of the Thunder Dragon with COMO Hotels and Resorts. Next on my blog, I will go into possible pre- and post-Bhutan stays. This because it is usually not possible to directly fly into Druk Yul from more distant destinations.

Date of visit: April 2023

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The post Traveling Bhutan with a private guided tour by COMO luxury hotels appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

If you think about traveling Bhutan in style, you might have come across the one or other luxury hotel brand that offers private guided tours in this country. The most known name in this context is probably Aman Bhutan, yet also Six Senses Bhutan might have caught your attention. There is one more, COMO Bhutan, which my husband and I chose for exploring this fascinating Himalayan kingdom. Originally, our trip should have taken place in spring 2020 yet we had to postpone it until spring 2023 – because of the COVID-19 pandemic. Find in the following an overview how the three big players in Bhutan’s luxury travel segment compare to each other, also price wise.

Before delving into the topic, a quick look at the blogposts that I have already done about Bhutan and what still follows in this respect.

My mini-series about Bhutan travel

A travel guide made the start, followed by the perfect 9-day-itinerary in Buthan’s west, the country’s heartland. This very post shall be about what the three luxury hotel brand of Aman, Six Senses and COMO Pura have in store for discerning travelers who plan to travel The Land of the Thunder dragon. Then I will of course inform about how our journey with our choice of hotel (COMO) was. And finally in a post to come, there will be information about possible pre- and post-Bhutan stays as it is usually not possible to fly in directly from a more distant country.

Bhutan travel in general

Already before the Covid-19 pandemic, Bhutan had a reputation of being an expensive travel destination. Its motto always was “high value, low impact”, and this meant great benefits for travelers but also high revenues from tourism without causing too much damage by it.

While this certainly is a good stance in view of the overtourism in many popular places, it did not stop there. When the country reopened to tourism in September 2022 after the pandemic, a major overhaul of its already strict tourism regulation came into effect. For details, refer to my travel guide. In short, foreign travelers are now charged a 200 US$ fee per person per day for sustainable development (SDF)!

It goes without saying that this pricing makes a trip to Druk Yul unaffordable for most travelers. And this might be true for many well-heeled ones too. I am not sure whether my husband and I would have come to Bhutan if we had to pay 3,600 US$ for just spending nine days here. Fortunately, we had an “old booking” (pre-pandemic), so we did not fall under this new travel rule.

In this context, you also have to consider that before the pandemic more than 70% of the tourists were Indian residents. And this country is exempt from this tourist fee. So, you cannot help but asking yourself why the group that makes the most impact should not contribute their part too. But it is complicated, Bhutan depends on India in many areas.

After having established that a Buthan trip is going to cost you a lot, now to travel arrangements here (private guided tour) by a luxury hotel brand.

Bhutan travel plans set by luxury hotels (Aman, Six Senses & COMO)

As hinted, three international luxury hotel brands have ready made – and also bespoke – travel arrangements for Bhutan on offer. This is about Aman Bhutan, Six Senses Bhutan and COMO Bhutan.

Competitor comparison at the time of our booking

When my husband and I booked our Bhutan journey about four years ago (for spring 2020), we opted for COMO. This because we knew and liked the luxury hotel brand from stays at other locations (my posts: London, Miami Beach). And we were in favor of their itinerary as it offered lots of opportunities to explore the Land of the Thunder dragon by walking.

Of course we had also checked out its competitors, Aman and SixSenses. Yet, the latter was still completing their market entry (first lodges in 2018, opening Gangtey and Bumthang branches in 2019). And we were not overly inclined to play guinea pigs. Although, I have to admit, the individual properties looked – still do – absolutely stunning.

As to Aman, we were tempted to book with them, yet the price tag was higher (nine nights costed about 20,000 US$ for two persons, COMO was priced at 13,351 US$). In this context I have to mention that Aman scored better – still does – in several aspects. Yet, you have to weigh it up.

How the big three – Aman, Six Senses & COMO – compare to each other

As mentioned, my husband and I did not have to pay the new tourist fee (SDF: 400 US$ for two per day) on our recent Bhutan stay (because of our “old booking”). Once back home, I was wondering how much a trip would cost in 2023 in case of a “new booking”. Thus, I did the math for all the three players in the luxury segment, i.e. Aman, Six Senses and COMO.

Before it is about money, I want to have a closer look at the threesome’s appearance in Bhutan. It goes without saying that I only have a closer insight of COMO, although we had the one or other look at Aman or Six Senses properties from far away.For this reason, I will refer to two bloggers who stayed at Aman Bhutan respectively Six Senses Bhutan.

I start with Aman, continue with Six Senses and end with COMO. From this threesome, Aman has the most transparent offer plus you can book their “journeys” (private guided tours) online. As to Six Senses, you can see room prices (full board, without SDF) online, yet not book them. When it comes to “journeys”, there are detailed descriptions, yet the pricing has to be enquired. COMO is yet another case. Room bookings are possible online, but only with half board (without SDF) . As to “journeys”, you can find a range of example ones online (with starter prices).

Aman Bhutan essentials

Aman Bhutan goes under the name of Amankora, which can be translated with “peaceful pilgrimage”. Together with COMO, it was a pioneer in terms of luxury travel in Bhutan. In 2004, these both high-end hotel brands opened their first properties in the Land of the Thunder Dragon, and this in Paro.

Through the years, Amankora grew to five hotels. Properties in Thimphu, Punakha, Gangtey (Phobjikha) and Bumthang were added to the portfolio. All in all, 72 rooms are now available, from what you can conclude that the individual hotels are small.

Just as Amankora’s competitors, they offer a multi-destinations itinerary through the Kingdom of Bhutan. For stays of seven nights and more, a tailor-made travel plan is included in the room rate. It covers everything from accommodation, full board, private transport with a driver and guide, entrance fees to attractions, laundry plus one 60-minute spa treatment. Even house wines and spirits are included at Aman. And this makes a bit of a difference as wine is extremely expensive in Bhutan.

I will not go more into details, only two more remarks. All five lodges seem to share the same basic room layout and design. And only one property features a pool (Punakha). The least expensive room is already on the spacious side (from 52 sqm). And from what I read, they have a communal dining approach at Amankora. For more information, check out the post from a fellow blogger about his (pre-pandemic) stay at Aman Bhutan.

Six Senses Bhutan essentials

Six Senses was not exactly a pioneer in terms of Bhutan travel, as you know by now. They only started in 2018 and actually copied what Aman did before. They chose the same locations and kept their lodges at a similar size (five properties with 82 rooms).

Exactly as Aman and COMO, multi-destinations itineraries for exploring the Land of the Thunder Dragon as its fullest are available. And they include everything that was mentioned above under Aman. This except alcoholic beverages, yet the non-alcoholic ones are part of it (as to the massage and the laundry, I did not find any indications).

In terms of rooms, Six Senses Bhutan seems to feature the most luxurious ones of the threesome, at least from pictures. And of course they are also the newest (lodges opened in 2018/19). Plus, the least expensive room is also rather sizable (60 – 73 sqm). As to pools, two hotels have them. As far as dining is concerned, it does not look like they are into communal dining. If you care for more details, here are (pre-pandemic) posts from a fellow blogger about three properties (Paro, Thimphu, Punakha).

COMO essentials

In contrast to the competition, COMO only has two hotels, one in Paro (opened in 2004), the other in Punakha (opened in 2012). While the former has quite a number rooms (29 units) – it is actually the largest of all the threesome’s properties – , the latter is small (11 rooms). There is a general manager for both hotels, residing in Paro.

If you care for more destinations than two – highly recommended – , it seems that they partner up with other providers. In our tour – booked pre-pandemic – , they offered lodging for the Phobjikha (Gangtey) Valley, and this at the Gangtey Lodge. Currently, I could not find “our” itinerary online. Instead they have travel plans on offer where you stay at a fully serviced overnight camp in addition to their two locations.

COMO’s multi-destinations Bhutan itineraries include everything what Aman does with the exception of the laundry and the beverages. For both, you have to pay extra. As to the rooms, they are well-appointed, but of average size (the second least accommodation – Valley View – measures 32 sqm) and not recently updated. If you care for a pool, the Paro property has an indoor one. And dining takes place at a “normal” restaurant (no communal dining).

For more details about both COMO properties plus Gangtey Lodge, my next blogpost will go into this topic.

Price comparison for multi-destination Bhutan itineraries in 2023 at Aman, Six Senses & COMO 

It is no easy thing to do a price comparison for the three big players regarding their offers for multi-day travel plans in Bhutan. If you decide to base it on online research only, you cannot help including some estimates. In case you do want more specific indications, you have to start an enquiry with the hotel in question. This is especially true for Six Senses, but partly also for COMO. As to Aman, I must sing my praises for their rates transparency!

Find in the following what I found out price wise about a tour in the low season (high season is from March to May and from September to November). Be advised, that it is about approximate starting prices, all in. That means accommodation, full board, beverages (alcoholic with Aman, non-alcoholic with Six Senses), driver and guide, entrance fees, laundry (Aman), one massage (Aman, COMO) are covered. I also added the SDF and the visa fee as well as service charge and sales tax, where necessary. But of course I cannot take any guarantee for the correctness of the information.

For a seven-night tour for two – subject to all the mentioned conditions – , expect to pay from 17,894 US$ with Aman, 14,055 US$ with Six Senses and 12,372 with COMO. Please take note, this is for the Bhutan “journey” only, without any flights. And the greatest uncertainty with the accuracy is in the case of Six Senses, as elaborated above.

Overall (price) comparison touring Bhutan with Aman, Six Senses and COMO

If you want to travel the Kingdom of Bhutan in style, you have to be ready to dig deep into your pockets. Should you ask the question whether it is worth the expense, there is no easy answer. The Land of the Thunder Dragon is for sure an exclusive, remote destination. You have to look far to find another desirable country that is lesser traveled than Druk Yul. And it definitely is a place of longing where you can make experiences that are second to none. And that is for once not an empty phrase!

Yet on the negative side, a Bhutan trip comes with a hefty price tag! And the new Sustainable Development Fee (SDF) of 400 US$ for two per day does not help. Especially if you take into account that this Himalayan kingdom was already an expensive destination without it!

Looking back and forward as to my Bhutan posts

As to my previous Bhutan content, I started with a travel guide, continued with a perfect 9-day itinerary and now compared the three luxury hotel brands in Bhutan offering multi-destinations tours. Next on my blog, you will get insights how it is traveling the Land of the Thunder Dragon with COMO, one of the three big names in the country’s luxury travel sector. And the mini series will find an end with a fifth blogpost going into possible pre- and post-Bhutan stays, as there are usually no direct flights possible from further away.

Date of stay: April 2023

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The post Which luxury hotel brand to choose for a private guided tour in Bhutan first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post Which luxury hotel brand to choose for a private guided tour in Bhutan appeared first on Swiss Traveler.