Japan is a heaven for lovers of fine dining. No trip in this country is complete without eating your way through its diverse culinary landscape. When first visiting Japan back in 2019, I tried to dine at as many different restaurant types as possible. This in order to fully immerse in the local culture. On the second journey my husband and I made recently, I did not feel the same need for variety any more. Instead, I chose the places that appealed to me the most. As always, I checked out the Michelin and other guides for this purpose. Find in the following six top fine-dining restaurants in Japan. They are located in Osaka, Kyoto and – to my and probably others great surprise – Izumi in the Kagoshima Prefecture in Kyushu.

Some preliminary information on restaurants in Japan

Before coming to some upscale culinary spots in Osaka, Kyoto and Izumi, first a few comments to dining out in style in Japan. In case you should be interested in the types of restaurants that exist in this country, I made a corresponding post after our first trip to this country. While not all the dining spots I mentioned there are still in business, I checked them all out and indicated a possible changed status.

If you should wonder how to find and reserve truly good restaurants in Japan, have a look at another blog post I did at the time. Here I gave an overview about the guides you should use for your dining-spot evaluation and the different ways to secure reservations at this places. While the tips in this post are still valid, further clarification on reserving dining spots through intermediaries may be helpful.

Restaurant reservations in Japan via intermediaries

Since our last Japan trip, making reservations through booking platforms has become even more common. Yet, there seem to be intermediaries that operate in Japan whose bookings are not always valid. From what I read this concerns third-party reservation apps like Autoreserve in particular. Therefore, it is important to use secure alternatives. On my research I found out that the following Japan booking platforms are considered safe:

1. Pocket Concierge: This is the one I recommended in my corresponding former post. It specializes in high-end spots, often Michelin-starred ones.
2. Omakase: This booking platforms caters for the same audience as Pocket Concierge (upscale restaurants). It is an official Michelin partner in Japan.
3. TableCheck: Here you can reserve dining spots of any kind. In addition, it also partnered up with Michelin to integrate booking technology into this guide’s ecosystem.

When we wanted to place a reservation, we first checked out if a direct booking with the restaurant was possible. If not, we proceeded as follows. As we often picked dining places featured in the Michelin Guide, we carried on in this manner. After identifying a spot, we moved on to its listing in the Michelin Guide. This in order to find out if reservations were available and through which intermediary. After a crosscheck of the menu price, both with the restaurant website and with other intermediaries, we made the booking.

Now to the dining spots my husband and I visited on our recent Japan journey. This time we only needed off-site restaurants in the cities of Osaka, Kyoto and Izumi (Kagoshima Prefecture, Kyushu). Everywhere else – in rural Kyushu, Shikoku and Honshu – we were on a half-board plan at the hotels we stayed.

Osaka: 2 Michelin listed restaurants (1 with a star) out of 6 top fine-dining restaurants in Japan

1. Restaurant Kitashinchi Yumiba Shinnosuke

Japanese cuisine, Michelin listed, 4.8 on Google, 3.75 on Tabelog

This was my favorite dining spot on this Osaka stay. Here you get innovative Japanese cuisine, grounded in tradition. You are seated at a U-shaped counter. There is an omakase menu only (10 courses for 19,360 Yen). Shinnosuke Yumiba is on the helm, a young chef (36 year-old), who trained for 12 years in Osaka before opening his own place in July 2021.

Staff/Cuisine

While the chef was not fluent in English, he liked to engage in conservation with us (we were the only westerners). Also another female staff member was eager to give explanations (with Google Translate), which was helpful and interesting. Shinnosuke Yumiba places high value on serving dishes at their optimal temperature. And he strives to highlight the natural aroma of each ingredient.

Food

On our visit, we got many varieties of fish, many of them I have never heard of. The staff members pointed them out for us on their mobile phones. The sashimi was intriguing in particular, it came with a nori seaweed soy sauce and monkfish liver with ponzu.

And the chef served black bear too in a hot pot version! It was very aromatic, though it was too fatty for me and a bit tough too. After the meat course, the chef served two mixed-rice dishes. They were cooked in clay pots right at the counter. And I liked them very much, one was with firefly squid, the other with cabbage and minced duck. He even offered a second helping that we could not resist!

2. Restaurant Iwaki

Japanese cuisine, one Michelin star, 4.7 on Google. 3.20 on Tabelog

Iwaki, actually Kappo Iwaki, is a highly-acclaimed dining spot. Here owner-chef Ryoichi Endo infuses traditional kaiseki with progressive western elements and modern twists. The restaurant is named after his hometown in the Fukushima Prefecture. The chef has been at this location for 16 years and has received one Michelin star every year since 2011. Before he spent 13 years training at Semba Ketchi, a formerly famous high-end restaurant.

Setting/Menu

Iwaki features a 8-seat counter in an elegant setting.

There is a private dining room too, which was occupied on our visit. No Japanese guests were present, only English was spoken on this evening. You could watch the chef’s exact culinary techniques, which was enticing. However, the light was low, making it hard to see everything clearly. You get here an omakase menu, which is ever-changing – from what I read (12 courses for 25,000 Yen). And apparently Ryoichi Endo – he probably is in his early-to-mid 50s – constantly aims to progress.

Staff

As to the experience we had at Iwaki, it was a bit mixed. The chef worked on his own with the help of a server, who was primarily responsible for the private dining room. While he was polite, he appeared quite reserved and somewhat stressed to me, maybe because of the full house he had. He offered a three-glass sake pairing to me as I did not want the proposed 5-glass one. But then he let me sit with my first glass in front of me until we inquired about the second one. He had obviously forgotten our agreement, so I told him to leave it at this single glass.

Food

In terms of food, everything was of great quality, nicely presented and full of taste. His speciality seems to be artfully arranged starters with seasonal flowers and leaves as well as nicely adorned simmered dishes. The only complaint I have that the dinner was a bit insufficient in quantity. A second helping of the tasty firefly rice would have been appreciated.

Kyoto: 3 Michelin listed restaurants (2 with a star) out of 6 top fine-dining restaurants in Japan

1. Restaurant Deux Filles

Modern French cuisine, Michelin Bib Gourmand, 4.7 on Google, 3.64 on Tabelog

This intimate 8-seat restaurant (4 tables) with its reasonably priced French-Japanese cuisine (7 courses, 12,000 yen) is an absolute find in touristy Kyoto where fine-dining prices are steadily rising. It was all the more incomprehensible that my husband and I were the only guests on a Thursday night in mid-april! Upon arrival, we saw the chef working in the half-open kitchen. The setting is pleasant yet rather minimal and casual.

Food

Throughout the evening we were looked after by the same host that welcomed us. We appreciated his friendly demeanour and his expertise in wine. When it came to food, a trio of snacks set the tone for an enjoyable dinner, which was light, delicious and rich in vegetables (the latter applies only to the savory courses) from the beginning to the end. After a potato-almond soup with scallops there was broccoli in unison with salmon. Next was the chef’s signature dish, a salad with 30 kinds of vegetables, followed by sea bass, beef and two desserts, a vanilla pudding and a creation made with setoka, an exclusive citrus variety.

Chef

Owner-chef Daisuke Iwata – born in 1981 – opened “Deux Filled” (“Two Sisters”) in March 2017. He built his skills across several high-end European and Japanese kitchens. Most notably, he trained at the one-Michelin starred La Biographie in Kyoto where a similar cuisine is celebrated as he does it now. It is evident from the previous menu description that the chef values vegetables highly. From what I read he personally travels to regions like Kameoka and Kamigamo to source fresh, seasonal vegetables directly from the farmers.

2. Restaurant Yokoi

Japanese cuisine, Michelin star (since April 2026), 5.0 on Google, 4.03 on Tabelog

At Yokoi we enjoyed the best and most memorable Japanese dinner in this country so far! This venue got its Michelin star shortly after we dined here (before it was listed in this guide). And I was anything but surprised about the award! At Yokoi you are treated to a fabulous kaiseki meal where chef Hiroshi Yokoi incorporates his own touches (13 courses, 27,500 Yen).

After 18 year of training in Kyoto – 12 at two-star Michelin Kodaiji Wakuden – he opened his own place in fall 2023 at the age of 36. He did this in a 180-year-old machiya, a traditional wooden townhouse.

The main dining area features a 10-seat counter plus there is a private room. The rules for eating here are strict: shoe-off policy (not barefoot), smart casual dress code, no photos of staff, no perfume).

Experience

When my husband and I arrived at Yokoi, we were warmly welcomed and immediately got a cup of Kakegawa tea from the chef’s native Shizuoka. I was impressed by the number of chefs present. There were four of them plus one server for 9 guests on this evening. And we were the only not-Japanese. When dishes were served, chef Hiroshi Yokoi provided details about them and readily answered questions. He was also kind to us westerners although his English speaking skills seemed limited. That went so far that he even clinked glasses of sake with us and suggested taking a photo together after dinner in front of his restaurant!

While we could not follow his explanations about the individual dishes, he indicated an app where the whole menu was described in English.

Food

A highlight on the menu was for me the warm dish, white asparagus with fatsia sprouts and ginger paired with snow crab.

Also the abalone with bamboo and hosts shoots combined with hana yuzu and shellfish in broth was great. Midway through the dinner, the chef hand-rolled sushi in front of us – filled with sea urchin, tuna and egg yolk – and gave it to us to eat right away. Perhaps he got this skill from his father, a sushi chef. Then the charcoal-grilled bamboo shoot was an extraordinary dish.

And I very much liked the beef shabu-shabu he served with sansho blossoms.

A stand-out dish was finally the rice that came with lotus root, salted salmon, dried young sardines, squid with pollock roe and pickled vegetables. Later on, the chef served a second helping, this time with raw egg yolk. What a great meal that was, more refined and inventive than we had elsewhere! And the chef was so approachable. If you could choose only one of my 6 top fine-dining restaurants in Japan, this would be the one!

3. Restaurant Creative Dining Takayama

Modern Italian cuisine, Michelin star, 4.8 on Google, 3.95 on Tabelog

I had high hopes for this dinner, yet it ended up as a mixed bag for me. Upon arrival, the Taiwanese host asked every guest to take a moment to freshen up in the restroom before the dinner. Once finished he inquired whether he should store away my (small) handbag, an odd question because a woman requires her purse at dinner. Then we were ushered in the clinical-looking dining-room (all in white) where 12 seats on a semicircular counter surrounds an open kitchen. We were on time, others were not, so we waited a quarter of an hour until everyone was present. All were westerners, mostly a younger crowd in their thirties.

Setting/Staff

The setting is  impressive, however it reminded me of an operation theater.

Imagine every diner had its own cutlery drawer.

Then a dinner began that was more a theatrical performance than a traditional dinner. The first snack, some sort of chocolate with a liquid center, had a QR code on it to find out today’s menu on Instagram, original but dramatic. The already mentioned Taiwanese host presented every dish with a detailed narrative. He was one of five staff members. Further, there was the chef, Tadashi Takayama, a nice person who speaks good Italian plus two more chefs. One more front of house staff member, not a really experienced one, completed the team. Astonishingly enough, chef Takayama was also responsible for the wines, so that he had quite a lot on his plate.

Some issues

Back to the Taiwanese host. One of his duties seemed to be to entertain the diners, which he did in an unconventional – cheeky – way. For instance he called someone who ordered the whole wine pairing a heavy wine drinker. I found such a behavior especially surprising as the staff in Japan is usually very respectful. Other aspects failed to convince me too. As the counter was in a semicircle, you had a (too) good view of the other diners and little private space. And as it was a collective “performance” (everyone ate the same dish at the same time), I felt pressured to keep up with the group. And everyone else ate faster than I. Finally, while I was fond of the wine pairing, the small one stopped in the middle of the dinner.

Food

Now to the food, which was very good. You get here contemporary Italian fare that comes with lots of extras meant to impress you. Many courses were in the form of an assortment of small dishes, similar to Spanish tapas (10 courses for 30,000 Yen, one glass of Champagne included; wine pairing 16,500 Yen, 1/2 wine pairing 9,500 Yen).

I liked the last snack in particular, a truffle cookie, as well as both starters – 5 finger food items

followed by 5 small dishes, all typical Italian classics with the chef’s take on them. Afterward, the bread arrived, the best one I ever had – and I have had many good ones lately. Fish and beef were good but not really out of this world. Pasta and risotto came in portions too small to give a verdict. Excellent, on the other hand were the dolci, the desserts, especially the petit-fours. As there were way too many of these miniature pastries, they readily packed the leftovers for us!

Izumi (Kagoshima Prefecture, Kyushu): 1 Tabelog Bronze Award restaurant 

Restaurant Kai

Modern Italian cuisine, 4.2 on Google, 4.22 on Tabelog

My husband and I landed in remote and untouristy Izumi more or less just by chance – we found here a great renovated samurai residence, RITA Izumi Fumato. When I browsed the Tabelog website (Japan’s most popular restaurant review platform) for this town, I found to my complete surprise Restaurant KAI, rated 4.22. This score indicates exceptional, world-class culinary quality. Only the top 0.07% of all establishments reach such a high rating. The chef even holds the prestigious Tabelog Bronze Award! And this – sorry Izumi – in the middle of nowhere. So, we booked two seats at the 6-seat corner dining spot that has been only open since January 2023.

Some mishap of our side

After some confusion – we reserved the right day of the week but with the wrong date – , we managed to get an alternative booking. We noticed our error when having dinner nearby at the very time we should have been at KAI. After dinner we went to this place in the hope to solve the issue on the spot. We burst in there in the middle of the service where we looked at “our” two empty seats with shame. But the young chef – Kai Oya, 34-year old – , remained calm and turned out to be courteous. We quickly sorted it out, via Google Translate, as he does not speak English. And we returned the following day for lunch.

Cuisine/Chef

And lucky us for succeeding in doing so! What a great lunch that was! You are in here for a skillfully and refined meal (11 courses for 11,000 Yen).

Kai Oya merges fine Italian cuisine with Japanese wood-fired cooking. And he does this in a nice, contemporary setting. We loved everything here, maybe with the exception of the wine pairing, which was mostly unexceptional. The rest was phenomenal! This included the professional and efficient service. Before moving to Izumi, Kai Oya worked at a top-tier Italian place in Tokyo. He grew up on Yakushima where his parents run a (simpler) Italian restaurant, Il Mare.

Food

As to the food, I adored the risotto – with squid and bamboo shoots –

and the two pasta dishes. The first one was with handmade “Chitarra” square-egg pasta and was combined with carrot, cheese sauce and chicken.The second one were simple yet delicious spaghetti with tomato sauce. They came right after the meat course, which was a fabulous spot-bill duck, a wild bird.

From what I read, the chef likes to prepare hyper-local game meat in general. Also the desserts were deeply satisfying. Kai Oya first served a lighter one, yoghurt ice cream with a sauce made of shiranui citrus, an intensely flavourful variety. Then he presented a heavier “dolce”, a pudding made of brown sugar and marsala.

Looking back on my Japan content

I started my Japan reporting with an off-the-beaten-path itinerary for Kyushu, Shikoku and unknown Honshu. My husband and I chose this route because we had already done the (Extended) Golden Triangle/Route, a favorite of most first-timers to Japan on an earlier journey – see here my corresponding posts. The second blogpost was about the luxury hotels we stayed along the way.

And just before I covered the (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants we visited in Japan. They are not that numerous because we were on half board at our hotels quite often. We only dined out  in Osaka, Kyoto and Izumi (Kyushu, Kagoshima Prefecture).

Date of stay: April 2026

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Are you a fine-dining lover heading to Singapore? And this in search of the possibly best three-star Michelin restaurant here? Maybe a nearby luxury hotel would also suit you? Then I might help out. When my husband and I planned our fourth stopover in Singapore, we wanted to stay in a part of the city where we had not been before. Plus, we longed for having a second dinner at the three-star Michelin Restaurant Les Amis Singapore where we had eaten back in 2019. It was awarded two Michelin stars back then, and we enjoyed here maybe one of the best meals we ever had. As regulars at COMO Hotels and Resorts, we knew about the recently opened COMO Metropolitan Singapore. And as it is located in the Orchard Road area – where Les Amis Singapore is too – , we found it perfect for our purposes.

Before coming to our recent Singapore trip, here first a brief look back at our earlier stays in this city. Precisely, I want to go into the lodgings where we have already stayed. Plus, I would like to let you know why Restaurant Les Amis Singapore stood out to us at the time.

Fabulous luxury hotels in Singapore – our past choices

When visiting Singapore for the the first time in 2015, my husband and I wanted to be at the famous Raffles Hotel Singapore.

This longtime landmark with its colonial-style architecture is some kind of “living national monument”. And we enjoyed our stay here immensely. Having said that, rates here have skyrocketed meanwhile – after a costly renovation.

On our return visit to Singapore in 2016, we opted for another prominent hotel in town. It is about the favorably located Fullerton Bay Hotel Singapore.

This accommodation – opened in 2010 – is on the historic Clifford Pier only steps away from some major attractions. My husband and I loved the contemporary guest room with unobstructed views of the Singapore skyline and Marina Bay in particular.

When coming back to this city in 2019, we chose yet another hotel. And this time it was in the historic Tanjong Pagar district. This area, not that known with non-natives, is just south of Chinatown. Its situation is not only central enough but has an additional feature. Precisely, there are lots of beautiful ancient shophouses lining the streets. Unfortunately, the property we stayed at the time – Six Senses Maxwell,

a restored colonial-style building – does no longer operate under the Six Senses brand. It closed down in May 2020 after being opened only in December 2018.

First visit to Restaurant Les Amis Singapore

On our last Singapore trip in 2019, we had been looking for a dining spot to celebrate a special occasion. This led us to the award-winning Les Amis Singapore (two Michelin stars at the time). First, we found the pricing a bit steep yet it soon became evident that Restaurant Les Amis is a top-tier dining experience worth every penny! Not only the food – modern French classics with ingredients sourced from France – was excellent,

but the ambiance and the service too. And the same was true for the wines – they were happy to show us the really impressive wince cellar

back then. As we had so fond memories of our dinner at Les Amis Singapore, my husband and I craved for another visit to this place!

Our 2025 Singapore stay in style

Now to our recent Singapore style, which was short but intense. We used this city as stopover destination back home from Australia where we spent a wonderful time in Western Australia (find my posts here: itinerary, staying & dining in style, best activities). When flying in from Perth late in the evening, we skipped the dinner on this day. And as we flew out the evening after next – again late – , we only had one full day for our Singapore adventure. During the day, we revisited the Singapore Botanic Gardens, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and in the evening, we dined at Restaurant Les Amis Singapore, again for a special occasion as last time.

In the following, I want you to know how it was staying and dining in style in Singapore. And I have a third treat for you as well, at least in case you are a pastry lover. This is because Hotel COMO Metropolitan Singapore – where we lodged –

houses a pastry shop of the celebrated Cédric Grolet.

He used to be pastry chef at the Michelin starred Restaurant Le Meurice in Paris. And he has become a social media sensation with millions of followers because of his new approach on pastry.

1. Hotel COMO Metropolitan Singapore

As already informed, we chose this hotel because we had experienced satisfying stays at other COMO properties in the past. In the case of COMO Metropolitan Singapore, it is the first of the locally based COMO hotel group to open in Singapore. Unfortunately, upon our late arrival, we were told that it was COMO Metropolitan Singapore’s second anniversary. Thus, a huge party was underway. That meant that the lobby lounge and the rooftop bar were closed to hotel guests. They referred us to their COTE Restaurant & Bar for a drink, but their barman “forgot” us after handing out the menu. So, we left and tried their main restaurant, COMO Cuisine. Sadly, it was almost empty and they were preparing to close for the night. In consequence, we retreated to our room for a night cap from their (complimentary) mini bar.

Guest rooms

After this – not that ideal start – we settled into the guest room, one of 156 in total over 11 floors. It was clean-lined and contemporary, furnished with high-end furniture. I liked how stylish it was, but I was perplexed that there was already some damage (missing closet handle, scratched floor). And the lighting setup was barely understandable. Yet overall, I was content with the room (Emerald Room).

I not only liked its design but also its size (36 sqm) and its city views through wall-to-wall windows. Plus, I found it moderately priced (410 S$/250 SFR/324 US$ without breakfast).

Facilities

As to COMO Metropolitan Singapore’s facilities, the 19-story tower gathers all the COMO brands under one roof, from the mentioned luxury hospitality to the fashion retail to wellness and dining. As to the spa, there is the first-rate COMO Shambhala. Plus, two floors are here for Club 21, a fashion retailer. Then there are the already mentioned COTE Singapore, an outpost of a Michelin-starred Korean Steakhouse, COMO Cuisine and Cédric Grolet Patisserie (see the section after next). Plus, you find the Sky Bar and the Lobby Lounge on the premises.

Apart from our breakfast at Cédric Grolet – see further down – , my husband and I had breakfast at COMO Cuisine too. As to its interiors, I would describe them as a bit strange, mildly put. The supports are covered with silver foam sheets tied with bands. And the chairs have the appearance of such ones you use in an outdoor setting. They serve a cuisine representing Singapore’s different populations groups. In terms of breakfast, a continental one is available plus a number of hot dishes. To my surprise, the offerings at the breakfast counter (continental) only included pastries, cereals, yoghurt pots, seasonal fruits, green salad and toast. That was it, you found here no cheese, cold cuts or bread (other than toast).

Regarding the Sky Bar on the roof top – along a lovely pool – ,

we only had a look around. You really have impressive city views from here. And the present server was friendly enough to show us the premises.

In the Lobby Lounge Bruno is on duty. This is the hotel’s resident robot barista, a real fun thing! And the offer is complimentary for hotel guests.

Service wise, we generally considered the staff throughout the hotel as polite, considerate and helpful.

2. Restaurant Les Amis Singapore

I have already shared some details about Les Amis Singapore above.

Again, we had here one of the most memorable dinner we ever had! It was even more impressive than last time, maybe because we had this time the tasting menu (565 S$/343 SFR/447 US$) or they had received their third Michelin star in the meantime. But first things first. We were amiably received by the host, who ushered us to the same (excellent) table we had last time. The interiors had been redone since our visit in 2019, yet the dining room kept the same elegant attire it had.

Unchanged was also the graceful attitude of the staff. Even the maître d’ was the same as last time.

Just as on our first visit, he made a great contribution to making our dinner a truly enjoyable one!

Back story Restaurant Les Amis Singapore

Les Amis Singapore is a thoroughly French Restaurant that has been in business since 1994. At the time, it was Singapore’s first independent fine-dining spot. It was founded by  like-minded friends – hence the name “Les Amis”, “Friends” in English – who loved France, its culture and cuisine. The chef here is Sebastien Lepinoy, who has been in charge since 2013. He uses only prized seasonal ingredients, sourced from all over France. In 2016, he made Les Amis one of just six restaurants to be rated two-stars when the Michelin Guide debuted in Singapore. And that was not all! In September 2019, just weeks after we dined here for the first time, the dining spot was promoted to three stars.

Regarding our recent experience at Les Amis, food wise, it even exceeded our (skyhigh) expectations.

Food experience at Restaurant Les Amis Singapore

It was a true epicurean experience from A to Z at Restaurant Les Amis Singapore, one highlight followed another. As mentioned we opted for the Tasting Menu, which came in 13 parts. In contrast to most other fine-dining spots, bread plays a major role throughout the dinner. The experience started with a large loaf of Sourdough Bread that was presented before us. After enjoying a slice with their Beillevaire Artisanal Butter, already the snacks came with another piece of bread, a mini croissant. Next was one of my personal favorites of the meal, Parisian Style Egg Mimosa with Oscietra Caviar from Sologne. Again, it was paired with a small baguette. Minutes after the course was served, another savory pastry arrived. And then it was time to make our choice from a richly stocked bread trolley. It was delivered after the fish course, Line-Caught Turbot form L’Île-d’Yeu.

A granita made of five different summer herbs cleaned the palate. Then the dinner proceeded in the same excellent vein it started! A fabulous Duck from Vendée with Foie Gras made up the main course. Eventually, the cheese trolley appeared, from which the maître d’ put together two plates for us to share according our wishes. And of course, bread came with it as well. The pre-dessert was their signature dark chocolate tart, decorated for the occasion. An Apple Soufflé with Calvados and Cider Ice Cream followed. Finally, the feast was rounded up with a few petit fours.

Before leaving the restaurant, it was time for a visit to the wine cellar – as last time. Again, it was filled with an astonishing selection of French wines.

 3. Cédric Grolet Singapore

Back story Cédric Grolet

Now to the star patissier Cédric Grolet. As already mentioned he did his most important career step at the restaurant at Hotel Le Meurice in Paris when he became head pastry chef in 2013. At the time, the restaurant was helmed by Yannick Alléno (from 2003 to 2013) who got three Michelin stars in 2007. When Alain Ducasse took it over in 2013, he gave Grolet the chance to create the desserts on his menu. Although Le Meurice lost its third star three years later, this seemed to have no negative impact on the head pastry chef’s further career. Alain Ducasse gave him two tasks. First, he wanted him to cut back the sweetness and instead highlight the natural tase of the ingredients. Second, he should create desserts that stimulate the senses. And so Cédric Grolet specialized in fruit-based desserts that look identical to the real fruit.

In 2018, he was named the “World’s Best Pastry Chef” and opened his first pastry shop within Le Meurice Paris. A second one in Paris followed soon, then three more in London, Singapore and Saint-Tropez. And he expanded his product range from sculpted fruits to piped floral pastries, croissants and others. In 2025, the successful entrepreneur opened his latest shop, and this in Monaco at Hôtel de Paris Monte-Carlo. At the same time, he also joined as the executive pastry chef for this venue.

My history with Cédric Grolet

Although I am not an avid social media user, I became aware of Cédric Grolet on Instagram. Here he has been publishing posts about how he makes his appealing sweet creations for ten years. From what I read, he meanwhile has over 20 million followers. Plus, he leads a team of 450 employees. I found this impressive and wanted to visit one of his shops on my travels the first time an occasion arises.

To my total surprise, I discovered that there was a Cédric Grolet shop at the hotel my husband and I had booked for our recent Singapore stopover (COMO Metropolitan Singapore). Of course, I took the chance to have breakfast here, which was easy to arrange by the way. In this context I have to admit that I was a bit worried about the outcome of this experience. This was because the Google critics for this spot were not really good. And this was the case not only for Singapore but for at all his other shops I checked. So, I was curious what would be in store for us at Cédric Grolet Singapore.

How it was at Cédric Grolet Singapore

We had booked the first slot in the morning (08:30 AM) on a weekday). Upon arrival, we found the stylish café astonishingly unbusy.

We had pre-ordered a savory breakfast set for 85 S$ (52 SFR/68 US$) per person, which includes a a sweet part too. Alternatively, you can opt for a sweet breakfast set only (60 S$/37 SFR/ 48 US$). And there is also the option to go for à la carte. While this might sound like a lot of money for a breakfast, you get much value for money.

First, they served a giant Croissant, followed by the second (savory) course. Here we could make our choice out of Avocado Toast, Benedict Croissant, Quiche Lorraine or Jambon Beurre (basically a ham sandwich). My husband selected the Avocado Toast, I went for  the Quiche Lorraine. Before I could savor my croissant, the quiche came. And I could not believe how huge it was. The avocado toast was a bit less so but still big. Finally, the sweet part was served. It was about two beautiful waffles paired with vanilla double cream and caramelized pecan custard. I would describe them as normal in size but the accompaniments were rather substantial.

In terms of how everything tasted, the quality met my (high) expectations. I took the Croissant away and had it later in the afternoon. It was still excellent, lighter and less buttery than I expected. The quiche was rich and flavorful, one of the better I have ever had. And the waffles were exquisite (and beautiful), different from all the others I have ever tasted.  Plus, the caramelized pecan custard was heavenly! I spooned up the rest when we finished the waffles … As to the service, it was friendly, subtle and attentive. A staff member brought me more napkins when he thought I could use them, and he was right! The experience we had at Cédric Grolet was wonderful – I cannot fault it at all. And I cannot understand the bad reviews!

Date of stay: September 2025

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Australians do not seem to be much into fine dining, this was the impression of my husband and me. That is how we felt when it came to Western Australia’s countryside at least. This was especially so between Perth and Exmouth. Here we did not encounter a single venue that resembled my idea of a gourmet restaurant. This issue in focus was better between Perth and Albany, but again worse when heading east from Albany. Be it as it may, we did make some finds in terms of good eateries on our Western Australia journey nevertheless. Some of them could even pass as fine-dining outlets. In the following I would like to share my personal best restaurants in Western Australia’s countryside with you. And I do this in the form of two best-of lists. One is about my top fine-dining spots here. The other showcases my preferred simple but good restaurants in the rural areas of this state.

1. My list of the best 5 (casual) fine-dining restaurants in Western Australia’s countryside

During our Western Australia trip from Exmouth to Esperance, we happened to encounter two of my top restaurants here in the wine region of Margaret River.

That is not surprising as good wine goes well together with (equally good) food, as is well known! Two others were in Albany, a livable country town on WA’s south coast. And one was in a northern suburb of Perth.

1.1. The Vasse Felix Restaurant, Margaret River, one of the best restaurants in Western Australia

(15 Points/2 Chef Hats Australian Good Food Guide 2026)

Vasse Felix, Margaret River’s founding winery, is not only a beautiful property

with fine wines but also features a gourmet dining spot. It is no exception here, this is true for many wineries in the area. As to Vasse Felix, my husband and I had booked a cellar tour and a wine tasting here before heading to the restaurant for a five-course tasting menu paired with Icon Wines. But you can also come here for lunch only. You read that right, wineries here do not offer a dinner service, which is a pity.

When entering the premises, I was astonished to encounter such stunning restaurant interiors. You find here a semi-open kitchen along with an impressive fireplace and a variety of lunch areas. And while it is stylish here, it is rather casual too.

The lunch was a big deal prepared with modern, terroir-driven food by chef Cameron Jones. He even was named Regional Chef of the Year 2025 by WA Good Food Guide (WAGFG). And I liked his boldly innovative array of flavors!

Plus, the service did its job well.

1.2. Miki’s Open Kitchen, Margaret River

(12 Points/1 Chef Hat Australian Good Food Guide 2026)

My husband and I did not expect such a cool spot as Miki’s Open Kitchen here in the heart of Margaret River. We felt pampered, when the chef – Mikihito Nagai – himself ushered us to our seats at the counter where we could witness the goings-on in the kitchen from close up. You are in here for some kind of a Japanese dining theater.

At Miki’s Open Kitchen you choose between three different tasting menus. Even a fourth for kids ten and under is available. There are two seatings per evening, so you have a two-hour slot for dining in this place.

What you get is nothing that you will find in Japan. This is because Miki does his own take on Japanese cuisine with local produce from farmers he relies on. When you opt for the whole shebang as we did, you experience a journey of up to 23 unique elements plus the additional Otsukuri Plate (sashimi). We got all this in 7 servings.

While I liked everything we got, my favourite was probably the tempura. It was fun watching the chef doing it at two stations. In addition, flambéing food was part of the program a well.

The staff was immaculate, explaining all the dishes in the necessary detail to us. Miki’s Open Kitchen was definitely one of the best restaurants we encountered in Western Australia’s countryside.

1.3. Le Rebelle, Mount Lawley

(lost Chef Hat in 2026, 13 Points/1 Chef Hat Australian Good Food Guide 2025)

Mount Lawley is just minutes from Perth CBD and not far from Swan Valley either. We came from the latter as we found the dining scene there not so exciting (winery restaurants are only open for lunch). Le Rebelle perfectly fits into this hip, vibrant suburb of Mount Lawley. When you head here, you sign up for hustle and bustle. The dual-level dining room is usually packed with a lively urban crowd.

And the staff is energetic and gracious. Modern French Bistro food is on offer at Le Rebelle, but the owners – Liam & Sarah Atkinson – and chef James Knubley interpret it in their own way with the one or other Aussie touch.

In terms of dishes, the House Baguette was fabulous as were the Crab Toasts, one of their signature dishes. And I absolutely fell in love with the house-churned sorbet they do here. Yet all the rest we had was good too, be it the Cured Snapper or the Rock Cod “Bouillabaisse”.

The one thing you have to know withe Le Rebelle, it is a small, casual place. The tables are placed close together and some chairs come without backrests, which is not for everyone.

1.4. Kirby’s, Albany

Kirby’s was the one and only fine-dining restaurant we had in WA’s countryside that was not on the casual side. It is no dining spot in the strict sense either. This is because you can dine here exclusively on the occasion of the Friday Night Experience. Then a “decadent” (wording on website) five-course seasonal menu, sourced locally whenever possible, is served. And this in an elegant setting where “diners dressed in their finest attire” (wording again) gather for this purpose.

Frederick (chef) and Jacqueline Kirby (host) are behind this once-a-week dinner. He, an Irish chef with experience in Michelin starred establishments and formerly being executive chef of Sandalfords’s Winery – ,

runs Kirby’s Atelier de Cuisine. Here you can book cooking classes, hold events/celebrations in the opulent upstairs dining room – where the Friday Night Experience takes place too – or use his services as private chef. He took this career step because this allowed the married couple to focus better on the needs of their autistic, non-verbal son.

As to the experience itself, it was nice to be in a refined, old-school setting for a change – uncommon for WA. The food was excellent, especially the Gnocchi with Confit Wagin Duck and the Beef Fillet with Café de Paris Butter. The one thing I was not fond of was the sorbet and the ice cream being too hard (no pacojet used).

Service and ambiance were great, and the chef, with whom we exchanged a few sentences, is a really kind person.

1.5. Sótão, Albany

This is a fairly new place in the nice Downtown Albany Historic District, opened in June 2024. They call themselves a food and wine bar offering modern, European influenced cuisine in a relaxed setting.

While there is no actual website, some information is found on their Instagram account. Sótão is located on Albany’s main street, down towards the water. You find here a contemporarily decorated spot with rather dark interiors.

Foodwise, they serve tapas-style dishes intended to be shared and are delivered when they are ready (3-4 dishes for two). And there is a focus on regional and seasonal produce. On the menu on our visit were interesting choices just as Salted Cod Croquettes with Saffron Aioli, Roast Sweet Potatoes with Lemon Tahini or Porchetta (fatty pork roast roulade) with Pear & Inca Berry. Yet also Grilled Futari, full Blooded Wagyu, Rump was available. And for dessert you could either have a Basque Cheesecake or a Barcelona Olive Oil Cake.

We thoroughly loved our experience at Sótão, served by friendly staff in a pleasant ambiance.

1.6. May be good: de’sendent, Margaret River (not dined here)

(14 Points/2 Chef Hats Australian Good Food Guide 2026)

First of all, I must say that we have not dined at de’sendent. This eatery on Margaret River’s main strip was closed on the day we wanted to go. Yet I heard good things about it and I found it a promising place. It is about the new spot of chef Evan Hayter, who was sucessful with his former one in the area called Arimia. De’sendent was recognised as “New Restaurant of the Year for 2025” by the Western Australian Good Food Guide (WAGFG). And this for its creative and fun high-end dining. They offer a six-course tasting menu from 6pm. Plus, there is an afternoon menu between 4pm and 6pm where you can order snacks. What a good idea if you do not want to go for the whole shebang!

2. 3 simple but good restaurants in Western Australia

Here I am happy to share with you two eateries with good food between Perth and Exmouth. And we found a third one in a wine region other than Margaret River. It is about the Swan Valley in Perth’s surroundings. While these three places do not make part of Western Australia’s best restaurants, they can be described as rather basic yet quality dining options.

2.1. Exhale Exmouth

There are no real fine-dining options in Exmouth, maybe with the exception of the restaurant at our hotel, Mantaray’s Bar & Brasserie. Yet there are quite a few cool places with modern, often healthy food, especially for breakfast and lunch. As to dinner, we only found one in town we found appealing. Thus we went there twice. It is about Exhale Exmouth, a casual eatery with a good vibe and kind staff.

They serve tapas-style food designed to share that arrives from the kitchen when it is ready. And it is predominantly Gluten free, in case you look out for such one.

As you are by the coast, sea food is an important part of the offer. Think of Oysters – from Coffin Bay – in three Ways, Goldband Snapper Ceviche Tostadas or Exmouth Wild Caught Bugs (lobster-like crustaceans). And I liked every single one of them! Yet there is more, also quite a few vegetarian choices just as Chargrilled Broccolini or Karaage Cauliflower. Of course there are items with meat and poultry too, think of Steak Tartare, Braised Lamb Ribs or Kangaroo Fillet. And also tempting desserts are available.

2.2. Upstairs, Kalbarri

You will find no fine-dining establishments in Kalbarri, if I am not mistaken. But I had identified two relaxed places with modern cuisine before our visit that sounded promising enough. Unfortunately, one – Little Leaf Kalbarri –

was closed due to renovation works – , so there was only one left. That was Upstairs Restaurant, featuring contemporary interiors, which however felt a bit chilly.

Plus there is a balcony with a view of  the nearby river. Staff was friendly and helpful, yet not very talkative.

In terms of food, modern Australian fare is on the menu. And the dishes incorporate elements from different cuisines. I name here various Asian countries – Satay Skewers, Green Thai NZ Chilli Mussels or Seafood Laksa – , Italy (2 sorts of Linguini) or Morocco (Moroccan Lamb). Just as in Exmouth we are still on the coast, so seafood is prominently featured. You get her Western Rock Lobster, both on its own or as part of a Seafood Platter. I dined here three times and everything I had – fish, mussels and seafood – was of good quality, well prepared and tasty. The desserts were my least favourite part. They were okay but not more.

2.3. Locale Mio, Guildford

I was delighted to come across such a good Italian restaurant in historic Guildford. While it is a beautiful town, it does not necessarily have an alluring dining scene. Locale Mio is a casual yet sophisticated place that buzzed with life on our dinner.

The menu here showcases authentic Italian cuisine, blending traditional flavors with modern touches. From what I read, the owners grew up with their backyard as their grocery store. Their Mama used to prepare amazing creations from this fresh produce. And this has become their motto for Locale Mio as well.

They serve here Tapas, Fried, Cold and Hot, alongside Home-Made Pasta with Fresh Salad and Pizza. The dough for the latter is rested for 48 hours, made with a certified blended flour. Plus, irresistible desserts complete the offer. My husband and I shared their house salad, Italian Bread and Butter and then had pasta and risotto. And everything was just great. A delicious Pannacotta with Limoncello and Strawberry Coulis, which we shared, made the end.

And the service made a good job too!

About my Western Australia posts

Two posts about our four-week journey in Western Australia have already appeared on my blog. And one more will follow in this context. As to the former, I informed on our itinerary and where to go for staying in style. This very post covered my personal best (fine-dining) restaurants in Western Australia. And the last will showcase my favorite things to do in Australia’s biggest state.

Date of stay: September 2025

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After long thinking on where the second Australia trip of my husband and me should go, we chose Western Australia. On our first Oceania exploration in 2018, we traveled from Adelaide to Sidney in 15 days and both New Zealand islands in another 15, here are my posts. While we enjoyed it very much, it was quite stressful. This time we longed for a more relaxed journey, meaning staying longer in one place. And we wanted to experience a less visited part of Australia. In terms of destination, our first choice was the north. As it is partly quite difficult to explore by car, my husband voted for the east coast. But I found it too beach-focused. So we agreed on Western Australia, and this to an Exmouth to Esperance itinerary – in style whenever possible.

Travel in style in Australia

Always when traveling, my husband and I long for luxury. We like to stay at nice hotels – here are my WA highlights – and dine at fine restaurants – here are my WA highlights – , as long as they offer value for money. But this is not easy at all in Australia! No offence, Aussies, but travel in style is not necessarily your thing! Australian people love doing their trips in a caravan. Thus they have nice campgrounds but no such hotels.

And they like grilling, so no dining-out. Therefore, there are not many great dining spots around, at least in the countryside.

Regardless of this challenging situation, I managed somehow to put together a four-week Western Australia itinerary in style. You find it in the form of my Google Map with the best hotels, restaurants and activities between Exmouth and Esperance.

My Google Map of a 4-week Western Australia itinerary in style

Details on Exmouth to Esperance Western Australia itinerary 

As we flew into Perth

from Singapore, we started with an urban getaway here, the one and only real one on this trip. After four nights here, we flew to Exmouth, part of the Coral Coast, where we rented a car. After exploring the Cape Range National Park/Nigaloo Reef

we drove further south to Denham. Here the Francois Perron National Park was on our agenda.

Next was Kalbarri where we visited the Kalbarri Nation Park.

We left the Coral Coast behind us and continued to the Turquoise Coast, where we made a stop in Jurien Bay,

two hours north of Perth.

As we already did Perth at the beginning of our journey, we bypassed the city and got via the Wheatbelt

to Katanning,

an agricultural hub. From here we drove on to the easternmost point of our Western Australia itinerary, Esperance on the state’s south coast. Here the Cape Le Grand National Park drew us.

Next was Albany

with another national park, Torndirrup.

Margaret River with its wine region

was the penultimate stop. And before flying out from Perth again, we stayed in the nearby Swan Valley wine region.

How was it getting around by car on our Western Australia trip?

As you can guess from the above Western Australia itinerary, it was quite a long road trip. In total, we made 5,600 km/3,480 mi in just under four weeks. And we did this on paved roads only. However, they were a little bumpy in places, rather narrow and had soft shoulders only in 70 percent of all cases. While there was not much traffic most of times, the described road conditions made it difficult to drive and required a great deal of concentration. Every time a car comes towards you, you have to exercise particular caution. The same is true when you have to overtake a vehicle.

And not to forget the existence of road trains. It is defined on every stretch of road how long they are allowed to be. In our case, the maximum was 47 m/154 ft. If you happen to meet such a giant truck, extreme caution is required. And this not only when you overtake, but also when the road train is on the opposite lane. It may be that you need to make room for it. 

In case you are wondering, the speed limit was 110 km/h / 68 mph. Sometimes, when the roads were curvy, it was 90 km/h / 60 mph. And we had quite a large 4WD (an upgrade),

originally we had booked an AWD. But no worries, you need neither of them here. While our rental car fitted well on the Coral Coast (north of Perth), it was way too big south of Perth, where smaller cars are more common and appropriate.

In what season did we do this Western Australia itinerary?

We traveled the state of Western Australia from end of August to end of September, starting in the north (Exmouth/Nigaloo Reef), then heading south. While this timing is ideal for the Nigaloo part, this is a bit less so for Perth and further south (we were a bit too early). The latter is especially so in case you are interested in activities around sun, sea and sand. However, if you are a nature lover or hiker, then September is usually ideal. It is supposed to be the perfect time for incredible wildflowers

and pleasant walking but also for wine tasting, should this be your thing.

As to the weather in our case, it was great on the Coral Coast but not so good around Perth and in its south. From what we heard, the September here was wetter than usual. Having said that, we almost never encountered days filled with rain only. It was rather an on-off thing with alternating half hour shifts of sun and rain. And wind played a role as well.

Generally speaking for a Western Australia itinerary, March to October is ideal for Exmouth. Go in April to July for whale/shark watching and pleasant weather. Visit in September and October for wildflowers and fewer crowds. As to Perth and further south, aim for April and May or October for the sweet spot of great weather. Yet March, September and November are also good for warm, sunny days, fewer crowds and wine events.

Which lodging choices did we make on our Western Australia trip?

In total, my husband and I had 26 lodging nights – here are my WA highlights – on our Western Australia trip. We stayed at a number of hotels, some bed-and-breakfasts and two rental properties. As to the latter, we almost never opt for an apartment or a house when vacationing. We only go for this option if there are no suitable hotels or inns around, precisely if they are not comfortable enough or not well-rated. And this was true in our Western Australia trip in two places. First, we did not succeed on the Turquoise Coast, around Jurien Bay and Cervantes,

two hours by car north of Perth. Second, Esperance

on Western Australia’s South West coast was a tough nut to crack in this aspect too. Thus, we decided to rent in these two spots: Jurien Bay and Esperance.

What is next regarding more Western Australia posts?

Often when doing one of these “My Google Maps”, I add details about all the places we went in the correspondent post. This time, I limit myself to provide a rough route of our Western Australia itinerary only, see earlier in this blogpost. When it comes to specifics such as which lodgings and dining we chose and what activities we did, please refer to the mentioned map. I included all of them along with a short description and a number of pictures. In terms of more reporting on this journey, I will write three more posts with best-of lists. This will be about the top hotels we stayed, the finest restaurant we dined and our favorite activities on our Western Australia trip.

Date of stay: September 2025

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This last post of my Taiwan mini-series (planning, one-week and two-week itinerary, favorite luxury hotels) goes into my fine-dining restaurant highlights. On a 17-day trip through beautiful Taiwan, my husband and I tried to dine at good gourmet dining spots whenever possible. While it was no problem finding such places in the island’s big cities, this was a bit different in the countryside. Yet we managed to get more than decent dinners in Taiwan in most cases. As a matter of fact, we only had one meal that we would have preferred to do without. But anyway, that is not the topic here. It is about my three favorite fine-dining restaurants in Taiwan.

Before jumping on the places in question, let us have a short look at foodie restaurants in Taiwan in general.

(Michelin) fine-dining restaurant scene in Taiwan

What Michelin and The World’s 50 Best Restaurants think

Taiwan is continuously making an impact on Asia’s fine-dining scene. Since the inaugural Michelin Guide Taipei in 2018, three more cities were added, Kaohsiung, Tainan and Taichung. In the Michelin’s last Taiwan edition (August 2023), 341 restaurants were included. 3 got three stars (Le Palais Taipei, Taïrroir Taipei and JL Studio Taichung), 6 two stars (Molino de Urdániz, Mudan, Logy, L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon and RAW, all in Taipei, and Liberté in Kaohsiung) and 34 one star. This is quite an impressive performance record, I think!

Also The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list covers Taiwan. 50Best Discovery shows 19 results when doing a search. 13 are in Taipei, 2 in Taichung and 3 in Kaoshiung. All three Michelin three-star establishments are included.

Our choice of fine-dining restaurants in Taiwan

As to our restaurant selection in Taiwan, it was no easy thing to do. First of all, the hottest tables are gone the minute they are open for online reservation (usually made via “inline”). And many among those are also quite expensive. Plus, some only accept bookings by phone. Then, it is sometimes difficult to find English information about certain places online. Not all have websites in English. And if they have, they make it not easy for you to find out where to click for the English version. Furthermore, restaurants are often very specific when it comes to making a reservation. They ask for several things, and you have to pay an amount or the whole meal in advance.

Despite all the difficulties we faced in the reservation process, we managed to find some really good spots. When doing so, we focused on more affordable places, i.e. such ones not asking for much more than 4,000 TWA (111 SFR/US$) for the tasting menu. After all, we had 17 nights to eat out. Except in one case – where we opted for the Signature Wagyu Menu with a Sirloin steak as main course – , we succeeded.

My top 3 fine-dining restaurants in Taiwan

In contrast to my luxury hotel highlights (my post) in Taiwan that I did not list in descending order, I made a ranking for my favorite fine-dining restaurants on this island. After lots of thinking, I have chosen my best thee among 13 places. While my number one was clear from the beginning, number two and three were not so easy to determine. Here is my classification of my personal fine-dining restaurant highlights in Taiwan. Two of them are Michelin listed, from which one even holds a Michelin star. The third is a second restaurant from a three-star Michelin chef on the island.

In this context, I have to add that we dined at one more one-star Michelin spot. And this was the one I have elected as my actual number two of best restaurant experiences in Taiwan. It is about Restaurant Holt in Taipei whose chef (Jeffery Downs) had left for Canada even before our visit.

While they were still serving his creations on our visit, we were told that there would be a rebranding process. And I have just noticed that their website is no longer available. So, I had to rearrange my ranking with a new number two and three. But first to my undisputed number one.

1. Restaurant Marc L³ Kaohsiung

About

According to 50Best Discovery, “reservations here are like gold dust”. I well noticed that when checking out the booking process at Marc L³. So, I bookmarked the exact time when to do the reservation online. And I was successful. Then we were given a short time window to make the full payment of the meal. But instead with credit card, they asked for a bank transfer. This was a no-go option for us (short payment deadline and high fees). Finally, the matter was settled when we involved our hotel concierge (Silks Club, many thanks!). You see, scoring a reservation at one of the hottest tables in Taiwan is no walk in the park!

After this overlong elaboration how to reserve one of the hottest tables in south Taiwan – sorry for this – , now to the place itself. Chef Marc Liao has been in fine dining for twenty years, also abroad for ten something years. In 2019, the Taipei born chef settled town in Kaohsiung. Here he joined Liberté, a two-star Michelin restaurant, before opening his own place in 2021. At Marc L³ – the three L’s stand for Live x Liberal x Limitless – , he serves contemporary cuisine in a casual setting. Marc L³ is listed at Michelin and at 50Best Discovery (The World’s 50 Best Restaurants).

What to expect?

Marc L³ is set in a quiet street in Kaohsiung’s Qianjin District. The spot is small, guests are seated either at the counter on the ground level (nine seats) or upstairs where you find three more tables. There is a cool vibe in here. This shows not only in the decor but also in the staff’s attitude. Marc Liao and three chefs (all women) were at work on our evening and one maître d`along with two servers.

Food wise, you are in for excellent modern European cuisine that is served without chichi. He does this by combining diverse cooking styles and techniques, which results in truly memorable creations. On offer is a sole eight-course menu. It is reasonably priced at 3,600 TWA (100 SFR/US$). According to the chef’s Instagram feed, he plans to open a new chapter where he aims at upleveling. This in order to get closer to the restaurant experience that he carries in his heart. Let us see what he has in mind. I already found that he brilliantly performed on our evening.

How was it dining at Marc L³, my favorite among visited fine-dining restaurants in Taiwan?

Upon arrival, two employees stood ready in front of the chic remodeled townhouse to greet us by name.

No wonder, we were the only Westerners dining here at this night. Once inside, the chef welcomed us too and chatted with us for quite some time. Besides being an outstanding chef – see below – , Marc Liao is a really nice person too! We were seated at the counter – we had not expected this – and were able to watch what was going on in the kitchen – and that was informative and entertaining at the same time!

In terms of food, dining at Marc L³ was one hell of an experience! We were served a delightfully balanced series of inventive dishes (12 of them) that surprised at every bite. The dinner included the chef’s playful take on a hotdog, filled with fish and squid. It came with two sauces, one ginger-onion, the other garlic-béchamel. And there was a black exterior that consisted of chicken broth with black truffle and squid ink.

The meat dish was A5 Wagyu shoulder paired with Anna potatoes and kohlrabi. Three sweet dishes put the final point, a rice pudding with chocolate crunch, the chef’s version of an apple pie and a donut with custard, lime and pistachio. We loved every minute of our dinner at Marc L³. It was a a big deal, both from the culinary aspect and the pleasantly relaxed ambiance we encountered here!

2. Restaurant Sho Kaohsiung, my second favorite of 13 fine-dining restaurants visited in Taiwan

About

Sho is an offshoot of the well-known Restaurant Den in Tokyo. This two-star Michelin spot under the lead of Zaiyu Hasegawa has reinvented kaiseki, an elaborate celebration meal. Chef Fujimoto Shoichi from Kyushu/Japan, who had worked five years in Tokyo, was sent to Kaohsiung in 2020. This in order to spread Den’s concept, adapted to its surroundings. And he does this in the fashionable Qianjin District. The chef, who started his professional career in a car repair shop, is now in charge at a state-of-the-art open kitchen. Here, surrounded by lots of staff, he works his magic. While the ambiance at Sho is a bit clinical (lots of white), it is far from being stiff. The dining spot has a Michelin star and is listed at 50Best Discovery (The World’s 50 Best Restaurants).

What to expect at Sho Kaohsiung?

You are in at Sho for a typical Japanese meal. That already shows from the spot’s exteriors. It is all about minimalism, there is lots of wood and you find here common Japanese plantings.

This finds a continuation in the restaurant interiors. The eyes are immediately drawn to a huge counter where about 14 guests can seat. In addition, there are two private rooms for about 6 to 8 each guests each. Everything is kept in white and light colored wood. The staff is also in white, complete with shirt, jacket and cap. Only the chef wears a black tie.

On offer is a sole tasting menu costing 3,500 TWA (96 SFR/US$) and comprised of ten courses. This is the case when you had opted for the so-called rice upgrade on the booking. This is about one of the signature dishes that the chef brought with him from Restaurant Den in Tokyo. It is kamameshi, a traditional rice dish cooked in an iron pot called kama. We got it once with Wagyu

and the other time with scallop.

At the end of the meal, the guests got some of it formed into balls as goodie to eat it as snack the following day. The other dish “imported” from Japan is a special kind of salad, which is made of ten different kinds of vegetable in various preparations. As to the rest of the menu, Fujimoto Shoichi combines traditional recipes with innovative touches.

How was it?

I mentioned it, the dining room is minimalist. Friendly staff welcomed us and led us to our seats at the counter. Here already a printed menu awaited us. At the other side of the counter, there was order and calm. It did not make the impression of an upcoming meal. Once started, it became busier, yet everything was done in quietude and earnest. At first, only the sous chef was in charge, then the chef appeared and took over some parts of the happenings. In any case, it was fascinating to observe.

Staff was cordial and attentive throughout the evening. They also explained the dishes to us. When it was time for the rice upgrade, the sous chef showed the ingredients and the pot around. After dinner, the chef came to all the guests to hand over the above mentioned goodie and to exchange some words. It truly was a pleasant affair!

The food was excellent, a series of small, well-rounded dishes, all of which were convincing. And it was indeed a modernized version of a typical kaiseki meal. It was a somewhat “stripped down version” of it, without the garnishes being for style. The first three starters were all with seafood (squid, oyster, shrimp), then was sashimi, followed by a meat course, duck with onion, nest fern and black tea. Next were the mentioned salad,

tile fish, the rice dishes I already went into and two desserts. The first was a mousse with perilla, plum and red guave. The second was a monaka. This sweet is made of azuki bean paste sandwiched between two wafers made from mochi. Here it came in combination with pineapple and caramel, delicious!

2. Restaurant KEN CAN by Ken Chan Sun Moon Lake

About

Restaurant KEN CAN by Ken Chan is the chef’s second restaurant on the island, and it is in the Sun Moon Lake area. It was opened in 2019, at Hotel Fleur de Chine.

Ken Chan was the first and only chef awarded three Michelin stars in Taiwan, when the guide was first published in 2018. This was at Restaurant Le Palais at Hotel Palais de Chine in Taipei, and he still holds them.

Ken Chan made an extraordinary career. The Hong Kong born chef started with pushing a dim sum trolley around a restaurant from which guests did make their choice. And he did this after dropping out of school when he was twelve. At the age of 23, he began a new chapter in Taiwan. Here he climbed the career ladder, until he became head chef at a five-star hotel. In 2010, he got the position as executive chef at Restaurant Le Palais, which he still holds, now at the age of 58.

It still seems to be Ken Chan’s goal to reinvent himself. On offer at his restaurant is Cantonese cuisine as well as Sichuan, Fuzhou and Taiwanese ones. Signature dishes are Cantonese-style roast duck, Peking duck and gourd stuffed with shrimp and crabmeat. Dim sum also makes part of the menu. And braised fish maw, abalone with goose foot or bird’s nest soup are favorite – yet expensive – choices too. You get all this in opulent dining-rooms with French-meets-Oriental decor. Be advised that the dress code at Le Palais is strictly formal.

What to expect?

Dining at KEN CAN by Ken Chan at Hotel Fleur de Chine at the lakeshore of Sun Moon Lake is probably not comparable to the one at the three-star Michelin parent restaurant in Taipei – I have not been there. In the Sun Moon Lake area, all is simpler. There is one dining-room, which is not big. It is in a traditional, elegant style yet is no formal affair. A “smart casual” attire is sufficient.

The menus are less expensive than in Taipei. You can choose one of three options that cost either 2,980, 3,980 or 5,980 TWA (83, 110 or 166 SFR/US$). And of course, Cantonese cuisine is on offer as in Taipei.

How was it at KEN CAN by Ken Chan?

On our arrival at the hotel reception, we were escorted to the premises, passing two other (casual) restaurants on the way. Only a few tables were occupied at the flagship spot (on a Friday evening end of March). The atmosphere was quiet, even somewhat relaxed. We had been contacted beforehand in order to enquire what menu we wanted (see above). And we had opted for the middle one. So, the printed menu was already laid out on the table. After some snacks, it was up to fish maw soup. It is a delicacy in China. In case you wonder about it, it is the inflatable swim bladder that most fish use to ascend and descend in water. It was mild in taste otherwise unremarkable – probably something for connoisseurs.

It went on with dishes that are somewhat unfamiliar to Westerners. While the lobster was something we knew and appreciated well, this was not the case as to the sauce. It was a mapo tofu one, a famous Sichuan staple where tofu pieces are braised in a rich, spicy sauce. Next was abalone, which we got to know a few years ago in Hong Kong. It was served on Low Mein (tossed noodles). And it was tender and tasty. I very much liked the next course, spinach, lettuce and tofu skin. The latter is the thin layer that forms at the top when you simmer fresh soy milk.

All in all, it was an interesting and authentic journey through Cantonese cuisine, an experience you cannot not make very often in Western Europe. Service was friendly, helpful and informative, we felt well at ease throughout the evening.

Looking back on my Taiwan journey

While this post focused on my three personal fine-dining highlights in Taiwan, you find on my blog some remarks about all the restaurants my husband and I dined on our 17-day journey. For this purpose, go for Taipei, Taroko and Sun Moon Lake to my one-week itinerary. As for Kenting, Kaohsiung and Beitou-Taipei refer to my two-week travel plan. Overall, I can assure you that – when traveling for food – , you get your money’s worth in Taiwan. While it is not always elaborate gourmet food when leaving the big cities, it was always good wherever we went.

Besides this blogpost about recommended fine dining in Taiwan and the two mentioned itineraries, I also went into two other topics concerning this island. My very first post went into some considerations to make when planning a luxury trip to this country. And the post before the current one was about my favorite three luxury hotels here.

Date of stay: April 2024

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The post My personal fine-dining restaurant highlights in Taiwan appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

Now it is to the details of a two-week Taiwan itinerary. My last post was about a one-week travel plan comprising the island’s north. If you have two weeks at your disposal, then you can also travel Taiwan’s south. Plus, you have the option to build in one more stay in the north. Such a travel plan allows you to take your time and to explore sights in the respective surroundings too. Again, I only included stops that ensure travel in style. That means places where you find options for staying at luxury hotels and dining at (Michelin) gourmet restaurants. Yet – as always – , I only considered establishments offering value for money.

There are six stops in total. Compared to the one-week itinerary that I described in my last post, there are three more. Two are in the south (Kenting National Park and Kaohsiung), one is in the north (a second Taipei stay). Find in the following my Google Map of a 17-day road trip in Taiwan that my husband and I did. It can be shortened to 14 days without any problems:

Overview on my Google Map of our 17-day Taiwan itinerary

As you could see, we started and ended the journey in Taipei with four stops in-between. The first stop was on the Island’s northeast, at the Taroko Gorge near the seaside town of Hualien. Then we traveled inland to Sun Moon Lake in the foothills of the Central Mountain Range. We continued towards south to the Kenting National Park. And before returning to Taipei, we had our one and only stay in a big city apart from Taipei, and this in Kaohsiung.

As I already went into the first three stops in my mentioned one-week travel plan, you find in this post about a two-week Taiwan itinerary only explanations to the last three ones (Kenting National Park, Kaohsiung and north Taipei). Again, I start with a short description of the respective town/region. Then I let you know what to do here in a few sentences. Finally, I go briefly into each of the high-end hotels we stayed and the (Michelin) fine dining spots we ate.

A 17-day Taiwan round trip with six stops in style

See details to stop 1 – 3 here

4. Kenting National Park (south, 2 nights)

About

The Kenting National Park occupies the entire southern tip of the country. And while Kenting is said to have the best beaches in Taiwan, they are subpar to those of typical beach destinations. Nonetheless, the area boasts a lovely coastal scenery and is well worth a full-day exploring.

Things to do here include: walk in the Sheding Natural Park with its huge coral rocks (volunteers guide you around if you wish), Sail “Nixon” Rock, Taiwan’s southernmost point, Longpan Park (great coastal views)

and Hengchun (old city wall with four ancient gates,

Old Street

with Patisserie Ce Moment).

Hotel: Gloria Manor

This is yet another property that has a connection to the former president Chiang Kai-shek. It used to be one of his presidential guesthouses. And this is easy to understand in light of the picturesque mountain and sea scenery you find here. The hotel is remotely located inside the Kenting National Forest Recreation Area, surrounded by tropical greenery.

Gloria Manor took over the site in 2012. The building convinces with minimalistic design that blends nicely into the natural setting. You find here 60 rooms in a range of categories. Yet it does have to be one with a sea view as this is probably the main attraction of staying here.

Breakfasts are excellent, you can make your choice out of several ones served on a tray.

And you can have it also in the pleasant outdoor area. Mu is the only restaurant on site, find some details below.

Restaurants: Mu Restaurant (at Hotel Gloria Manor)

At Gloria Manor’s Mu Restaurant you get excellent Taiwan cuisine with a modern twist. And the place strictly adheres to the principle “not in season, not on the menu”. The setting is relaxed yet still with an upscale touch. My husband and I dined here on both evenings and liked what we got. Good choices from the à la carte menu were Wonton Soup, Crab Omelet, Fried Rice with Pineapple & Dolphinfish, Mango Pomelo Sago or Baked Pudding.

There is also a set menu (1,680 TWD / 47 SFR/US$).

5. Kaohsiung (south, 3 nights)

About

Kaohsiung is Taiwan’s third most populous city and is home to the island’s largest port. While it long used to be an industrial city, it has been reorienting itself toward tourism as well as art and culture since since the turn of the millennium. This shows in the vast Pier-2 Art Center where former shipping warehouses were turned into shops and cafés. And there are museums, art installations and street art. I for one liked the dynamic vibe of Kaohsiung!

As to more classic sights here, the scenic Lotus Pond in the north of the city is an good place to go. It is known for its 20 temples or so along the shoreline and nearby.

And there is the Confucius Temple too. Another big name attraction in the area is the Fo Guang Shan Monastery, outside of town, which is the largest in all of Taiwan and quite a sight.

Last but not least, we used Kaohsiung for a day trip to Tainan. This is Taiwan’s original capital and still retains a traditional vibe. Go to the city center first (Confucius Temple, Hayashi Departement Store, Snail Alley & Shennong Street, two quaint streets;

then proceed to the Anping District (Anping Fort, Anping Old Street, Anping Treehouse).

Hotel: Silks Club

Silks Club is one kind of a cool, urban hotel, attracting business and leisure travelers alike. It is located in the emerging neighborhood of Qianzhen, opened in 2017. Already the sleek lobby with the reflecting pool of water impresses.

And it continues when it comes to the rooms. The 147 units have an average size of 66 sqm, floor-to-ceiling windows and oversized bathrooms.

The place for breakfast is In Jade Lounge – you get it on a tray plus there is small buffet, and it is a tasty affair.

You can also come here for drinks in the evening. The restaurant, a branch of the Japanese Ukai Tei, is divided into several sub-spots (Teppanyaki, Kaiseki & Grill). Find more info on the former below.

Restaurants: Ukai-tei Teppanyaki (at Silks Club), Marc L³ & Sho

For our Kaohsiung food adventures, my husband and I chose three Michelin dining spots. One even has a Michelin star (Sho), two are on the 50Best Discovery list (Sho & Marc L³).

I start with the “hotel restaurant”, Ukai-tea Teppanyki, where they serve a Wagyu menu (Rump 4,800 TWD, Sirloin 5,800 TWD, Tenderloin 6,500 TWD). We opted for the Sirloin (161 SFR/US$) and could witness quality ingredients being cooked on the iron plate right before our eyes. And we even had a chef who exclusively cooked for the two of us! That was quite an experience, especially when it was up to the preparation of the abalone (from live to death).

Our favorite dinner in Kaoshiung and probably on our whole Taiwan trip was the one at Marc L³. The three L’s stand for Live x Liberal x Limitless. Reservations here are difficult to get, and we had to pay our meal in advance (which was not a no-brainer to arrange). Yet, once seated at the counter (9 seats only), we were in for culinary magic! Unique French fare was prepared in front of us, and this as eight-course menu (3,960 TWD / 112 SFR/US$) in a relaxed ambiance.

And the chef is such a nice guy too, communicative, approachable and amiable! What a great evening we had here!

Dining at Sho, an outpost of the Tokyo famed Den Restaurant, was a epicurean highlight as well. We were treated to an exquisite Japanese meal with creative touches. Quite in contrast to Marc L³, it took place in a somewhat chilly ambiance. The place – a counter with 14 seats – had an almost clinical appearance. Notwithstanding that, we truly enjoyed the tasting menu (3,500 TWD + rice upgrade 700 TWD / 119 SFR/US$). And if you are wondering about the rice upgrade, go for it! It is a traditional rice dish cooked in an iron pot called a kama, once with Wagyu and the other time with scallops.

6. Taipei (Beitou District, north of the center, 3 nights)

About

Our second stay in Tapei was in Beitou, the capital’s most northern district. While it is not too far away from Taipei’s center (half an hour by MRT), it has a less urban feel. The hilly area is known for its hot springs and is close to beautiful nature.

We had planned to explore Taiwan’s north from Beitou. Yet we only managed to do one such day trip because of not so good weather. And this was to Jiufen,

a seaside town in the lush mountains northeast of Taipei (book a Taiwan tea time at Jiufen Artist Teahouse, expensive yet worthwhile;

escape the crowds by hiking the Jinguashi Aqueduct Trail). We left out the second one to Yangmingshan National Park on Taipei’s northern fringe. Instead, we headed to central Taipei once again, to the University District. And it was lively, even on a Sunday. And do not miss the sights in Beitou: Thermal Valley, Puji Temple,

Beitou Library, Xinbeitou Historic Station.

Hotel: Grand View Resort Beitou

While Beitou is not the first address for first timers to Taipei seeking to explore the city to the fullest, it was ideal for our purposes. Having already done the capital’s major sights, we longed for a quiet place to spend our last few days in Taiwan. Staying here is the best of both worlds: being in relative proximity to Taipei’s center and at the same surrounded by nature.

Grand View Resort Beitou is the most luxurious among the many hot-spring hotels that make use of the sulfurous hot-spring water that bubbles from the ground. The relatively large and modern property (opened in 2011) stands high on a slope with beautiful views of Beitou and beyond.

All the 66 guest rooms are spacious and come with hot-spring bathrooms, allowing a private soaking experience. I think the accommodations could use a little touch up, especially the wet area (the moisture from the hot springs does not help).

Breakfasts are really good here, served on a tray. And they even offered another variety on our third day. There are three restaurants, from which we tried out two (we did not eat at Aqua Deck with light continental food). Find more details in the next section.

Restaurants: Chinese Cuisine & C’est Bon (both at Hotel Grand View Resort)

We had dinner every evening at Hotel Grand View Resort Beitou. As I had read good things about the Chinese Cuisine – it is Michelin listed – , we went there twice.

One evening, we tried out the French place, C’est Bon.

While both offered fine food, we found C’est Bon better. We had a lovely dinner here indulging in immaculately prepared French food with a Taiwanese twist. Out of the four set menus, we ordered the one with Boston Lobster (3,080 TWD / 87 SFR/USD$), and we relished it.

As to the Chinese place, we had a not so good dining experience on our first evening. Whereas the food was good (we had opted for à la carte), service and setting were less so. Everything was better on our second dinner – we had the Vegetarian Set Menu (2,280 TWD / 64 SFR/US$). Yet C’est Bon has our love!

Looking back and ahead on my Taiwan journey

The start made some considerations to bear in mind when planning a (luxury) Taiwan trip (my post), followed by a proposal for one-week itinerary here. This is actually the first part of the journey my husband and I did on this island. It includes the three major travel highlights in this country, Taipei, Taroko Gorge and Sun Moon Lake. As luxury traveler and  fine dining lover, I also give recommendations as to where to stay and dine in style. In addition, I go into what to do in all theses places, plus some ideas for side trips. In this very post, you get the same thing, yet for the second part of our trip. Taken together, you have info on our original 17-day itinerary (that you can shorten to a 2-week Taiwan itinerary). Next on my blog, you will find out about my personal hotel and restaurant highlights in Taiwan in some more details.

Date of stay: April 2024

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While my last post went into general considerations to make when planning a Taiwan trip, this one is about a concrete one-week itinerary. When my husband and I toured beautiful Formosa – as it was called by its discoverers – , we actually had 17 days at our disposal (for the whole island). Yet, you can shorten the journey to one week (north only). This still allows you to see the island’s three major highlights – Taipei, Taroko Gorge and Sun Moon Lake. And my one-week proposal is about a Taiwan trip in style, meaning staying in luxury hotels and dining in (Michelin) gourmet restaurants (if available).

Before coming to the details of the three individual stops, here my Google Map of this one-week Taiwan trip.

Overview on my Google Map of a 1-week Taiwan itinerary

No Taiwan trip is complete without exploring its capital of Taipei. While I put it as first destination on my Google Map, you can of course also do it at the end of the journey. The second stop is on the Island’s northeast, at the Taroko Gorge near the seaside town of Hualien. Then you travel inland to Sun Moon Lake in the foothills of the Central Mountain Range before returning to Taipei.

I start with a short description of the respective place. Then I let you know what to do here in a few sentences. Last but not least, I go briefly into a high-end hotel and some nearby (Michelin) fine dining spots.

A 1-week Taiwan round trip with three stops in style

1. Taipei (Songshan District, near the city center, 3 nights)

About

Taipei is a must for every Taiwan traveler. You find here a fascinating mix of Chinese, Japanese, indigenous and western influences. And although it is a deeply urban place, nature is never too far away. So, it is the ideal starting and/or ending point for your island exploring.

When it comes to activities, Taipei 101 for a view of the city and the Elephant Mountain for a view of Taipei 101 are musts for first timers to Taipei. Also the political Taipei around the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall has to be on every traveler’s agenda.

Further things to do are the Dihua Old Street,

The Dalongdong Baoan Temple

and the nearby Confucius Temple.

Hotel: Mandarin Oriental Taipei

Before setting off on our Taiwan round trip, we lodged at the Mandarin Oriental in the Songshan District. This business district (financial industry) is an okay location for exploring Taipei, however not the most ideal one. Most sights are in the following districts: Zhongzheng, Wanhua, Datong, Xinyi and Da’an. And Songshan is slightly too far north and east compared to the before mentioned ones. Yet, you are close to a MRT station and once on the subway, you get everywhere quickly enough.

As to the hotel, it is opulent indeed. While being a newly built complex (opened in 2014 together with THE ARCADE, a shopping center), it is reminiscent of Medieval European architecture in an eclectic style.

The 303 guest rooms are more spacious than at its competitors. They are classically furnished with contemporary touches and boast generous marbled bathrooms.

And you get a fabulous breakfast at Café Un Deux Trois, a modern buffet style restaurant. Service is as excellent as you might expect it with this prestigious hotel group. And rates are affordable enough, in contrast to many other MO hotels in Europe.

Restaurants: Holt & Hosu

UPDATE: Restaurant Holt’s website is no longer available

We did not have dinner at Mandarin Oriental Taipei – except some small bites in the M.O. Bar after a late arrival on our first day in Taiwan (which were good).

Instead we had decided on two Michelin listed restaurants in the adjacent neighborhood.

Holt is a one-star Michelin restaurant offering exquisite contemporary European food. On our evening, they still served creations by Canadian chef Jeffery Downs, although he had already left for good in the direction of his home country. We were told that they are now in a rebranding process.

The tasting menu we got (3,980 TWD / 112 SFR/US$) was one of the trip’s highlight food wise delivering very high quality.

While Holt was really great yet very European, we were keen on trying food prepared in a more Taiwanese way. So, we had opted for Hosu, a modern Taiwanese dining spot, which is Michelin listed. And we were delighted by this cute little place whose name means “Good Island”. They served a tasting menu (2,880 TWD / 81 SFR/US$) that surprised at every turn.

2. Taroko Gorge (northeast, 2-3 days)

Currently largely closed due to earthquake in April 2024!

About

Taroko Gorge is one of Taiwan’s top scenic attractions. It is a steep valley created by the Liwu river and makes part of the Taroko National Park. The first 18 km/11 mi of Highway 8, coming from Taiwan’s east coast, are what is known as Taroko Gorge. The thing to do here are hikes of various lengths. Usually one full day is enough to get quite a good insight. My husband and I stayed three nights here, and this right inside the gorge.

As to actual things to do, be advised that usually one or more sights or trails are closed (it is a geologically active site). So, check what is open before you go. We did the following activities (on one full day): Swallow Grotto (short walk), Buluowan Suspension Bridge (crossing the bridge only), Eternal Spring Shrine Trial (closed, you could only walk to the first Shrine), Baiyang Trail to Water Curtain Cave (we did not go in, one and a half hour),

Lushui Trail (only a short part, closed after Small Cave).

The second day, we made a day trip to the Hualien area and a bit more in the south direction. It lead us along the east coast to Qixingtan Beach, Qizingtan (quaint seaside town), Baqi Viewpoint (nice),

Jiqi Beach, Fengbin Skywalk (closed) and Xin She Rice Terraces. Then we returned inland via the towns of Guangfu, Fenglin and Shoufeng. Here we made a side trip to Liyu Lake before going back to the Taroko Gorge.

Hotel: Silks Place Taroko

Closed until mid 2024 due to earthquake in April 2024!

As announced, the hotel is located within the Taroko Gorge. Precisely, it is in Tianxiang, a small village at the top of the gorge, about one hour from Hualien City. If you value the best possible situation for exploring the Taroko Gorge, then you are right here. The property used to be an official government guest house under the regime of president Chiang Kai-shek. In 2010, it opened after a renovation as Silks Place Taroko.

While the hotel’s exteriors are not necessarily a feast for the eyes, its interiors are nice, kept in a contemporary style. The 160 rooms are split over two floors, the Retreat Floor and Resort Floor. The former are more luxurious and offer access to the top floor Retreat Lounge where complimentary snacks and drinks are served all day.

As a Retreat Floor guest, you can have breakfast at either the Wellesley Buffet or the Retreat Lounge (served on a tray). For dinner, you can choose between the mentioned Wellesley Buffet or the Chinese Restaurant. Details to both of them follow in the next section.

Restaurants: Mei Yuan & Wellesley Buffet (both at Hotel Silks Place Resort)

As to the food at Hotel Silks Place Taroko, it was not the best we experienced on our Taiwan trip yet still decent enough. We had opted to be on half board and had to choose where we wanted to have dinner twice. As we do not like buffet restaurants, we went to the Chinese restaurant Mei Yuan on two evenings. And we had Shabu Shabu Hot Pot both times, yet we did not mind. This because it was prepared with good quality ingredients (which are boiled in a pot with soup in front of you).

When it comes to the Wellesley Buffet, we were quite a bit underwhelmed by the experience. Again, the quality of food was high and there was a wide range of culinary options. And the staff ensured that the buffet was kept immaculately.

Yet, it was like being in a bee house, with guests buzzing around and voices overlapping in every direction. It was not like something I expected from a five-star property.

3. Sun Moon Lake (center, 2-3 days)

About

Sun Moon Lake, at the foothills of the Central Mountain Range, is the island’s largest body of water. It is at an altitude of 762 m/2,500 ft and a hugely popular destination. And it is indeed a beautiful scenic view.

There are two lakeside towns, Shuishe village (more touristy) and Ita Thao (home of the Thao aboriginal tribe).

If you wonder what to do here, you can go boating, hiking, cycling and stand-up paddle boarding. However, swimming is not allowed (except at the annual mass swim). As to sights, visit the Wenwu Temple (view from the grounds above it towards the lake is splendid),

walk up to Ci En Pagoda (climb up to the top of it for the view) and go to the Antique Assam Tea Farm (self-guided tour, café & shop).

In case you have two full days in Sun Moon Lake as we had, consider a day trip to the Alishan High Mountain tea fields. Here Taiwan’s most famous tea (Oolong) grows. A good place to spend  a day is the small mountain village of Shizhuo. You can make the most beautiful hikes on the Shizhuo Trails System,

buy tea at the Lin Yuan Tea Factory (oldest tea grower in the area) and make a side trip to another village, Fenqihu (old street).

Hotel: The Lalu Sun Moon Lake

This is yet a former official government guest house of president Chiang Kai-shek. After extensive renovations, it was opened as a luxury hotel in 2002. And this is quite a property! It occupies a peninsula next to the Shuishe village. The hotel spans three buildings that blend harmoniously with the surrounding forested hillside. You have fantastic lake views from almost everywhere at the hotel. It is of a timeless Zen-like design.

All the 96 rooms except some stand-alone villas face the lake

and are exceptionally roomy.

Breakfast is served in the Oriental Brasserie and consists of a huge buffet with a diverse food offer, although it is not so geared towards western tastes. In terms of dining, five restaurants are at your disposal, although some only cater for room guests and member. Find out more about how it is dining at their two flagship dining-spots below.

Restaurants: The Lake View Chinese Restaurant, The Japanese Restaurant (both at The Lala) & KEN CAN by Ken Chan (at Hotel Fleur de Chine)

Both, the Lake View Chinese Restaurant and The Japanese Restaurant, were not as good as I had hoped for. While both offered good food, other aspects were not that satisfying. As far as the Chinese place (à la carte) is concerned, neither the banquet hall-like setting nor the service – we were poorly advised – were persuasive.

However, the Japanese spot (set menu at 3,600 TWD / 101 SFR/US$ with U.S. beef fillet) has an attractive setting (no view). When it comes to service, it was not much better than its Chinese counterpart (not many explanations to the food).

The good news in the Sun Moon Lake area is that there is an excellent gourmet restaurant around at the competitor hotel of Fleur de Chine. It is about KEN CAN by Ken Chan.

It is the second spot of this three-star Michelin chef at Hotel Palais de Chine in Taipei. If you are a foodie and have only one evening in the area, then dine here! We were delighted by the creative Cantonese set menu (3,980 TWD / 112 SFR/US$) as well as the courteous and informative service.

Looking back and ahead on my Taiwan journey

While this post went into a one-week itinerary of a Taiwan trip in style, the next is dedicated to a two-week one. Whereas the former only goes to the island’s north – yet covers the country’s three major highlights – , the second brings you to whole Taiwan. This longer journey has the same stops as the before mentioned Taiwan one-week itinerary plus three more. I started my reporting on this island with some considerations to make when planning a luxury trip to this island (my post). Two more blogposts to follow will highlight my personal highlights in terms of high-end lodging and (Michelin) fine dining restaurants.

Date of stay: April 2024

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Hua Hin, the beach side town south of Bangkok, is known for its night markets. However, if you look for great fine dining restaurants, you are not really spoiled for choice. So, when spending some leisure time here after a Bhutan trip (my posts), I had to look hard for gourmet spots for the three nights my husband and I had here. Finally, I did make some finds that live up to my idea of fine fining in a sophisticated ambiance. Thus, I am able to propose three of the best restaurants in Hua Hin to you.

Before going into the three dining outlets, a few remarks to the town of  Hua Hin in general and about the reason we came here.

Hua Hin as popular beach destination from Bangkok

In case you are in Bangkok and looking for a nearby beach destination, you actually have two options, Pattaya and Hua Hin. While the former is closer to Bangkok (two hours by car), it is predominantly known as party destination. Think in this context of blaring beer bars and neon dance shows. If you are more into laid-back, quiet places, then I definitely would go to Hua Hin. This takes you a bit longer (three to four hours by car), yet it is probably your best choice for beach activities, night markets, spa treatments or golfing near Bangkok.

Hua Hin has become quite fashionable as weekend getaway place for Bangkok residents. Yet also ex-pats like to have a vacation home or to retire here. It actually it is Thailand’s oldest coastal resort. The Royal family made it popular in the 1920s, and they still continue to vacation here nowadays.

Hut Hin as last stop after a Bhutan trip

Hua Hin made the perfect spot for my husband and me when it came to a few leisure days after a Bhutan trip (here you find all my posts about it). Before doing this journey, we also spent a couple of days in Bangkok. In this context, I already went into great fine dining in the capital’s Sathorn District. In case you are wondering about upscale lodging in Bangkok and Hua Hin, here is my post about this topic.

But now to some of the best resaurants in Hua Hin.

3 of Hua Hin’s top fine dining restaurants

I mentioned it already, there is no abundance of excellent fine dining options in Hua Hin. Yet you are not totally at a loss if you are a gourmet stranding here. Sadly, there is no Michelin Guide for this beach resort south of Bangkok. So, I had to dig deep on the internet to find upscale dining spots in another way.

Here is what I came across when doing my research. I start with my absolute highlight here, an upscale Thai restaurant, continue with an high-end Italian dining spot and end with a casual modern Thai eatery.

1. Restaurant Jaras at Hotel Intercontinental Hua Hin

Back story of Jaras, one of the best restaurants in Hua Hin

Restaurant Jaras was originally conceived for the Intercontinental Hotel in Phuket where the dining spot it made into the Michelin Guide. In April 2021, the concept was also introduced at the Intercontinental Hotel in Hua Hin.

Jaras is named after the owners’ grandma, Jaraspim Liptapanlop, who seemed to be a very good cook. As to the family Liptapanlop, everyone knows them in Thailand. The Liptapanlops own the Prayoonwitt Group and made their fortune in the construction industry. Lately, they have been gearing to the property development. Also the Hotels Intercontinental Phuket and Hua Hin are part of their portfolio.

Dining experience at Jaras

Design

Jaras is an intimate restaurant with only a fews tables. There is also a covered alfresco dining available overlooking the beach and pool. As to its interiors, the walls are nicely decorated with hand-painted murals depicting rural Thai scenes.

Food concept

On offer at Jaras is a creative contemporary Thai cuisine. Some of the recipes are inspired by the namesake, the already mentioned owners’ grandma, Jaraspim Liptapanlop. The ingredients come from regional suppliers, including fine caviar from a local farm. Also wine from the nearby Monsoon Valley Vineyard, developing a local wine culture since 2001, is available.

When it comes to what to order, you can choose between a multi-course menu or à la carte. As to the former, there is a 10-course Chef’s Table Menu, which costs 3,488 Baht (88 SFR/US$) including a glass of champagne. If this should be too much for you, go for the 8-course one (2,188 Baht / 55 SFR/US$) or the 5-course one (1,688 Baht / 43 SFR/US$).

In terms of à la carte, starters are from 270 to 680 Baht (7-17 SFR), mains from 350 to 750 Baht (9-19 SFR) and desserts from 230 to 280 Baht (6-7 SFR).

How was it at Jaras?

This was definitely my favorite dinner in Hua Hin as everything was right, from the design of the place to its ambiance to the food. As it was my husband’s birthday, we splurged on the 10-course Chef’s Table Menu.  We were not only allocated the best table at Jaras, but were well cared for throughout the evening by amiable and helpful staff.

All the ten courses, which took inspiration from Hua Hin community traditions, were very good. Among other things, we could also taste the local caviar, which could convince. There was lots of seafood – scallops, sand fish or King Mackerel – , prepared in all possible ways. Yet we were also served meat, above all Thai Wagyu beef with Panang curry. And everything was well prepared and nicely arranged.

We also had the paired beverages, which was an interesting experience as it included different spirits aside from wine – locally grown one too. The one thing that did not go well was the first glass of champagne we got. We had to reject it because it was flat. But that was the only downside. Bottom line, if you look for a restaurant for a special occasion, do not look any further – Jaras is it!

2. Restaurant Zafferano’94 Hua Hin

UPDATE 2: out of business

UPDATE: chef Luca Gavassa left end of March 2024

Back story of Zafferano’94

Chef and owner Luca Gavassa together with sommelier and restaurant manager Davide Lucatello opened their fine dining restaurant in April 2020, precisely when the first Covid lockdown happened. Bad luck for the two Italian restaurateurs! But they did not let things get them down. Both, the chef from the Turin area and the host from the Venetian one, were able to struggle through the difficult times and came out stronger.

Before coming here to Hua Hin’s eat street, Soi 94, both had been working in Koh Samui’s restaurant industry for 20 years, the last ten to them together. After such a long time at one place, they needed a change of scenery and headed to Hua Hin to open their upscale Italian dining spot.

Dining experience at Zafferano’94, one of the best restaurants in Hua Hin

Design

The restaurant is a dream in purple, inspired by the saffron crocus, Zafferano in Italian. The flower’s color, from which the most expensive spice is derived, is present all over the place. Purple is reflected in the table runners, the water glasses, the pictures on the walls, on diners’ plates etcetera.

Zafferano’94 features a bright, elegant dining room where you can watch the action in the kitchen through a glass separating panel. In addition, there is an undercover alfresco dining terrace plus a bar/lounge for drinks.

Food concept

On the menu you find refined Italian food. They reinvent traditional centuries-old recipes using modern cooking techniques and preparations.

The food journey started with tomato bruschetta on the house. For starters (from 280 to 380 Baht / 7 to 10 SFR/US$), my husband and I had Burrata Caprese (burrata cheese with tomato) and Carpaccio di Vitello alla Piemontese (veal carpaccio with parmesan). We continued with Risotto ai Porcini and Ravioli al Tartufo, Gorgonzola, Porcini e Noci (truffle ravioli with blue cheese, porcini and nuts). Those were from the entrées section (from 390 to 490 Baht / 10 to 12 SFR/US$).

Alternatively – or in addition if you are very hungry – , you can choose from the mains (490 to 980 Baht / 12 to 25 SFR/US). This is about meat and fish only. A favorite here seems to be the Ossobuco alla Milanese. It is a classic of Lombardy, veal shanks slowly cooked and served atop saffron risotto. Or you can build your own pizza (starting from 260 Baht / 7 SFR/US$).

As to desserts, you find here the usual ones plus a lesser known one (Bonet Piemontese, a hot chocolate cake with amaretto). Prices range from 60 (one scoop of ice cream) to 220 Baht (2 to 6 SFR/US$). While some dishes are always on the menu, other parts of the menu change regularly.

How was it at Zafferano’94?

While we were the only guests on a hot evening during Songkran Festival (Thai new year) until shortly before we left, there was no shortage of staff. Host Davide ran the front of the house in the most excellent manner together with an apprentice. And chef Luca skillfully delivered his fine Italian fare with the assistance of another cook.

My husband and I liked not only the immaculately prepared and nicely presented Italian classics with a twist but also the upscale ambiance at this chic place – from which you cannot find many in Hua Hin outside of high-end hotels. And the host is such a nice person, yet discreet enough not to be too talkative – in light of us being the only guests most of time.

3. Restaurant Braça at Hotel The Standard Hua Hin

Back story of Braça

Set in the buzzy surrounds of the newish (opened December 2021), super-cool Hotel The Standard, the Thai Izakaya Praça Restaurant suits just right. Praça – opened at the beginning of 2022 – is Portuguese for plaza, a local meeting place, and you actually see here all sorts of people. There is young trendy folk but also well-heeled couples and families.

Chef Prasertchai “Jacky” Trongvanichnam, a former Iron Chef champion who has worked at top hotels and restaurants in Thailand and the USA, is at the helm at Praça.

Dining experience at Braça, one of the best restaurants in Hua Hin

Design

Inspired by beach clubs of the Mediterranean, Praça is set in a restored heritage beach house equipped with an expansive verandah and breezy oceanfront.

As to seating areas, you have everything from an expansive veranda to a shady terrace for alfresco by the beach and indoor dining spaces. Although the latter is rather on the small side. The atmosphere here is relaxing, sharing style and lively.

Food concept

As I already hinted, it is about Izakaya, in Japan a casual drinking establishment also serving small dishes. It actuals means “stay-drink-place”. And food is thought to be shared.

Chef Jacky, trained in classic French cooking, showcases a unification of his western foundation, artisan local ingredients and favorite Thai street food flavors. He has composed an innovative menu with a fresh and playful feel. It includes tapas (160 to 290 Baht / 4 to 7 SFR/US$), flame-grilled food (160 to 360 Baht /4 to 9 SFR/US$), bowls, (260 to 360 Baht /7 to 9 SFR/US$) rice as side dish (80 to 90 Baht / 2 SFR/US$) and desserts (160 to 170 Baht / 4 SFR/US$).

How was it at Braça?

My husband and I had a seat on the verandah, which we considered as the ideal space for the not–so–young anymore. There are fans to make it more pleasant in case it is hot. And that was the case in April when we went.

Service was young, friendly and helpful, we felt well at ease. While Praça definitely has a nonchalant dining vibe, it was always attended to professionally.

Foodwise, we shared two Tapas (Miang Kham, Esan Tuna), Yum Som-O From the Fire, a Bowl (Khao Pad Nuea Yang), two Spoons (rice) and two Sweets (Waffel I-tim cha Thai and Hua Loy). Every dish followed the kitchen’s concept of traditional Thai recipes with a twist. Everything we had was well made and tasty. Only the grilled black tiger prawns were a bit mushy.

Overall, Braça is the perfect spot to go for modern interpretations of Thai food in a casual Izakaya style. And its front sea setting in a heritage beach house is hard to beat!

Looking back to my Thailand/Bhutan posts

This post about the best restaurants in Hua Hin is the last one of my Thailand and Bhutan reporting. As to the former, I started with possible pre-/post Bhutan travel plans, and that was in our case Thailand, i.e. Bangkok before and Hua Hin afterwards. Then I also looked into some of the best upscale Thai restaurants in Bangkok’s central business district of Sathorn.

Should you be show any interest in Bhutan, I wrote about the following topics: travel guide, 9-day itinerary, touring Bhutan by arrangements of luxury hotels operating here, Bhutan travel with COMO.

Date of visit: April 2023

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The post 3 of the best fine dining restaurants in Hua Hin, Thailand first appeared on Swiss Traveler

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Bangkok is for sure one of the foodie’s capitals in the world. And so my husband and I made sure that we could try out some of the best what Thailand’s capital has to offer in terms of Thai fine dining on our recent stay. As we happened to reside in the Sathorn District (find more details about it below), it had to be here. I do not see the point in heading further if you are spoilt for choice as to excellent dining-spots in the area. And this is definitely the case in Sathorn which has some of the best Michelin restaurants.

After some information about Sathorn and our post-Bangkok travel plans, I come right to the fine dining places we had chosen for our three nights in Bangkok.

About Sathorn District

Sathorn, also written as Sathon, is one of the city’s major business districts. It stretches from the Lumpini Park to the Chao Phraya river and from the Sathorn Road to the Chan Road. You find here many high-rise office buildings that house banks and other financial institutions. While Sathorn is not exactly known for its tourist attractions, it still makes a good base for exploring Bangkok’s highlights. In addition, there are lots of great hotels, restaurants and nightlife outlets. And the good transport links here make it easy to get around.

Bangkok as starting and end point for a Bhutan trip

Bangkok was for my husband and I the ideal springboard into a Bhutan trip, for which we had been waiting three years (because of COVID-19). If you should be interested in my Bhutan reports, I made following posts: travel guide, 9-day itinerary, travel plans of luxury Bhutan hotel brands, COMO Bhutan journey and pre-/post Bhutan stays.

As to the last mentioned one, we stayed in Bangkok before going to Bhutan, as you know by now. When returning from this trip, we added some beach days in Hua Hin, located three hours by car south from Bangkok. In case you care for fine dining recommendations in this seaside resort, my next post will go into them.

Three fabulous Michelin listed/starred Thai restaurants in Sathorn

As I mentioned above, some of the best Michelin restaurants are to be found in the Sathorn District. Quite a few even have Michelin stars. So it is no easy choice! My husband and I decided to include only places that serve Thai food. On our first visit in Thailand, we wanted to savor exclusively local cuisine. In addition, we were reluctant to spend a fortune doing so (as there is an abundance of less costly outlets).

After a thorough research we settled on the following ones. As we stayed at the COMO Metropolitan Hotel, which houses the Michelin one-star Restaurant Nahm, this one was set. We had eaten at Nahm London quite some years ago – when it still existed – , and had liked our experience here. However, I have to admit, I was a bit deterred by the not so good Google reviews (4.0) of its Bangkok branch.

Further on, we opted for Restaurant Saawan offering modern Thai cuisine. This dining spot seems to be a fixture on the local gourmet scene, although since recently with a new chef. For our third night, we got a bit adventurous and also chose Samrub Samrub Thai, from which we found not much info on the internet. At this place, they rethink old Thai recipes in creative ways.

Now to the details of each!

1. Restaurant Nahm at COMO Metropolitan Hotel Bangkok

Back story of Nahm, one of the best Michelin restaurants in Sathorn

Restaurant Nahm gained fame when it was named best Asian restaurant by the World’s Best Restaurants award in 2014. At the time, it was under the lead of David Thompson, an Australian who has dedicated himself to the Thai cuisine for many years. I was lucky enough to have dined at his London branch before he closed it in 2012 and moved to Bangkok. Here he received a Michelin star in 2017 when Michelin first included restaurants in Thailand’s capital. Then, one year later, David Thompson left for Hongkong.

At Nahm Bangkok, Pim Techamuanvivit, a female chef from San Francisco, took over in 2018. The Bangkok-born chef had left behind a career in Silicon Valley to open her own Thai restaurant in San Francisco, Kin Khao. And it was awarded a Michelin star only 18 months later! While still living in this city on the U.S. West Coast, she also holds the position of an executive chef at Nahm.

It seems that the restaurant’s style has not much changed since Pim  has been in charge. However, she has more turned to Thai artisans and small-scale farmers and fishermen to source ingredients. The eatery is still recognized by the World’s Best Restaurants award (No 98 of the Asian list) and also kept its Michelin star.

Dining experience at Nahm

Design

I liked the restaurant’s interiors with its extraordinary design. There are massive pillars, mirrored after Ayutthaya’s architecture, the second capital of the ancient city of Siam. This feature combined with hand-crafted wooden screens and bare wooden tables create a harmonious whole, which is contemporary yet with a traditional touch too. Onsite, you also find an outdoor poolside terrace. That suits the restaurant’s name, Nahm means “water” in Thai.

Food concept

As to the food, you get here a modern take on traditional Thai cuisine. Curries, salads, relishes, soups and stir-fries are on offer. And these often come with traditional ingredients which are not so frequently used in other contemporary Thai restaurants.

You can either opt for the menu or eat à la carte. The former is called “heritage” and costs 3,200 Baht (82 SFR/US$). If you prefer vegetarian fare, this is available as “botany” for 2,600 Baht (66 SFR/US$). As to the latter, starters are available from 400 to 780 Baht (10 to 20 SFR/US$), mains from 540 to 920 Baht (14 to 23 SFR/US$) and desserts from 350 to 375 Baht (9 SFR/US$).

How was it at Nahm?

While we generally liked what we got – especially the canapés (blue swimmer crab on rice crackers and miang of prawn, chicken and fruits)

were excellent – , service could have been better. After taking our order, staff did not show up at our table for quite a long time. While everyone around us got dish after dish, one hour passed until we got our first one. At some point, my husband inquired about the delay, but the server did not respond properly.

Once the round finally started, there was an ongoing coming of plates. And many came at the same time. We felt rushed and it totally lacked the magic of a typical tasting menu. And imagine, the dinner came to an end with the last dish being served less than one hour from its start.

On the positive side, at some point of time, a friendly female maître d’ appeared at our table to chat to us. We first thought that it was because of our complaint that we had made shortly before with a colleague of her. Yet it was unconnected. When she left, she casually said that she would check on our food as it seemed to be overdue.

2. Restaurant Saawaan Bangkok

Back story of Saawaan

Restaurant Saawaan – which means “heaven” in Thai – was opened in 2019. Shortly afterwards, it got a Michelin star and was holding it until 2022.  After the departure of chef Sujira “Aom” Pongmorn, it was gone yet the dining spot is still listed in the guide. And it is also featured on the World’s Best Restaurants Discovery list.

Since mid 2022, chef Saritwat “Earth” Wanvichitkun has been in charge here. He was born in Phuket and grew up in a family who owned a restaurant. From his mother he learned the art of cooking (Southern) Thai. As to western cooking techniques, he studied four years at Le Cordon Bleu Bangkok. Before being named as chef at Saawaan, Earth was executive chef at Restaurant Nitan in Phuket, which made it into the Michelin Guide in 2021.

Also at the helm at Saawaan is Arisara ‘Paper’ Chongphanitkul, who looks after the desserts here. She is the co-owner of ICI, a creative pastry café too.

Dining experience at Saawaan, one of the best Michelin restaurants in Sathorn

Design

The restaurant is housed in a converted shop house in a leafy alley off Sathorn Road. The window spans the entire front of the building, which is a good thing as the interiors are rather dark. The dining room is contemporarily styled, with brown bare wooden tables and a dark wooden floor. On the walls you find gold colored wallpaper adorned with branches full of white flowers. In addition to the circa 24 seats there is a counter where cold food is prepared in front of the guests (no seats here).

Food concept

On offer at Saawaan is modern Thai cuisine. The specialty here is that every dish focuses on a typical technique or concept of the traditional Thai cooking. And this always with a creative flair. One dish showcases for example grilling, the other stir-frying and yet another one fermentation.

On our evening, an eight-course tasting menu was served, showcasing following methods: raw, fermented, boiled, Miang (wrap), charcoal, stir-fried, curry and dessert. Ingredients were generally locally sourced. And a nice feature was that often a chef came to our table to give the finish to the dishes in front of our eyes.

There is a sole menu at your disposal, which costed 2,490 Baht (63 SFR/US$) on our visit. As I noted, it is now priced at 2,790 Baht (71 SFR/US$), which I still find reasonably priced for what you get.

How was it at Saawaan?

This was most probably my favorite dinner in Bangkok as the overall experience was very rewarding. Not only the service was impeccable, but the food was surprising, innovative and full of flavor. I only wish that we had not asked them for toning down the spiciness of the food a bit (they inquired whether they should do it nor not). Because I felt that it lost at times some of its magic as a consequence. Be it as it may, it was still great.

You definitely never got bored here as there is always something going on. It is great to watch the chefs and servers how they do a part of the preparation process in front of you. It is a fun affair and gives you the chance of occasionally asking a question.

My favorite dish at Saawaan was the curry. It was a green one paired with a Madame Burgaud Challans duck.

In order to produce the curry paste chef Earth combined ten different types of Thai chillies what resulted in a deep and well-rounded curry.

I also liked the dessert, a reinvented version of the classic Thai dessert of a steamed pandan layered cake. It was complemented with jasmine ice cream and black rice sauce.

3. Restaurant Samrub Samrub Thai Bangkok

UPDATE: one Michelin star as from December 2023

Back story of Samrub Samrub Thai

Samrub Sambrub Thai is run by a husband-and-wife team, Prin Polsuk and Thanyaporn “Mint” Jarukittikun. And interestingly enough, the former’s history is linked to the above mentioned Restaurant Nahm. He used to be David Thompson’s protégé, entrusted with heading Nahm London and Bangkok.

In 2017, Prin Poluk and his wife founded Samrub Samrub Thai in order to give lost Thai dishes a new life. First, they pursued their project in the form of pop-ups. Later on, in 2019, they moved to fixed quarters, to a small place with 16 seats only. And the eatery was well received. So, in November 2022, they moved one more time. And this to the current location in Saladaeng, with some more seats available. This is actually his wife’s childhood home, and her family still lives above. Prin Polsuk himself is from Chiang Mai in Thailand’s north, growing up in a family of farmers. If you wonder about the outlet’s name, Samrub means “menu” in Thai, but is it also something special.

In this year World’s Best Restaurant Asian list Samrub Samrub Thai ranks No 82. As to Michelin, the dining spot also made it into this guide in spring 2023.

Dining experience at Samrub Samrub Thai, one of the best Michelin restaurants in Sathorn

Food concept

Prin Polusk made it his mission to revive old recipes. For this he rummages through antique cookbooks and tries with perseverance and vigor to unravel its secrets.  At the same time, he is open to new culinary developments and incorporates them in his cuisine. The result is true Thai food “rethought”.

Apparently, dishes change every month and rarely ever repeat. On offer is a set menu – priced at 3,900 Baht (99 SFR/US$) – , which is served family style. And much appreciated by us, you get here one course after the other. In such a way, you can savor each one individually and you do not have to rush through the meal.

Design

The dining spot is located in a quiet residential area not far from lively Sathon Road. Everything looks new here at this at this large, white four-floor building. Once you walk through the door, you catch sight of a small open kitchen plus a long counter that can seat up to twelve guests.  In the rear, there is room for about ten more seats at tables. The room has an industrial-chic vibe, most is kept in black and white.

How was it at Samrub Samrub Thai?

The whole shebang

First of all, you have to know that it is difficult to get a reservation at Samrub for international guests. This because there is neither a website that deserves the name nor an easy way to make a reservation. You have to get in touch with them via Facebook or Instagram to make a booking request. Once you get an answer – which may last a while – , you have to pay the menu price in advance via bank transfer, for either the round at 5.30pm or at 8pm. Apparently, they are in the process of improving their booking and payment system to accommodate international guests too. Let us see what happens.

Unfortunately, we had another issue with the place. It seems they do not make it easy to love them. When we arrived here a few minutes before 8pm, all counter seats apart from two were already taken. And when we were discussing with Mint (the wife) about our seating – she allocated one of the tables in the rear to us where you are not able to witness the happenings in the kitchen – , the remaining seats were taken by other guests. Thus, we had no other choice than to become seated where she wanted us to do in the first place. At least we could make her let us sit side by side for better views.

Food & service

After we had overcome the initial obstacles, the dinner proceeded in an excellent vein, providing us with fantastic food and faultless service. All the courses – one snack, three starters, six main courses, one dessert, one petit fours – were amazing. I cannot name a personal favorite. Every single bit was scrumptious, full of taste and lingered long in our memories.

While the setting was rather casual, we felt quite at ease – the bench in the rear of the room was not overly comfortable. While the dinner went on, the chefs kept coming to our table to explain something related to the dishes served. And the meal sequence was just perfect. Also the chef was present and changed a few word with his guests – not to us “farangs”. However, his wife Mint, treated us warmly and made our dinner pleasant, although we had made a bit of trouble at the beginning (seating).

Samrub Samrub Thai would have easily made it our restaurant favorite in Bangkok if there had not been the mentioned issues!

What is next on my blog?

I already let you know that we not only made a “foodie tour” in Bangkok’s Sathorn in search of the best Michelin restaurants, but also went further south. And this to the beach resort of Hua Hin, the “darling” of many “Bangkokians” looking for a quick getaway. Said that, it was far more difficult there to find fine dining restaurants worth visiting for gourmet minded people. Nonetheless, we found some great places, although we had to move away a bit from our principle of only eating Thai food on our first Thailand stay!

Date of visit: April 2023

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Ubud is not only Bali’s cultural heart but also its culinary hotspot. There is quite a number of (casual) fine dining restaurants here that are a must for every foodie. During my recent stay in Ubud in central Bali I had dinner at some of the best gourmet dining spots. And I made some really mind-blowing gastronomic experiences. Which, I have to admit, was something that I did not think was possible. Although I knew that there were culinary gems around.

On an earlier trip, my husband and I accidentally passed the town’s current culinary showpiece, Restaurant Locavore. And this was six months after its opening in November 2013, when its future success was not forseeable. We thought it made a good impression, went in and got a reservation for the following day. We were thrilled by the dinner at the time! Less so, when we wanted to return two years later, and it was fully booked months in advance. So, we had to wait until last November to dine here again. And it was once again incredible! More later.

Before coming to the individual restaurants, a quick look at Bali’s gourmet restaurant scene.

Bali’s fine dining scene

While there is the one or another gourmet spot on the island outside of Ubud, the place to go as serious foodie is definitely this town in central Bali. The pioneer of Ubud’s fine dining scene is chef Chris Salans with his Mozaic Restaurant, opened in 2001. The American French chef has skillfully combined local ingredients with western technique in a nice tropical setting ever since. I personally have not dined here yet. On our recent stay, the dining spot was still closed due to the pandemic. Chris Salans reopened it in December, partnering with a younger ex-associate chef.

In the aftermath of the early bird of Mozaic, there was the already mentioned Restaurant Locavore that formed the scene. Since then, there has been quite a development in terms of the arrival of other promising (casual) fine dining spots. I name here chef Will Goldfarb with its Restaurant Room4Dessert and chef Nic Vanderbeeken with its Restaurant CasCades at Hotel Viceroy, both opened in 2014.

In 2015, Restaurant Blanco Par Mandif by chef Mandif Warokka followed, at the same time as Restaurant Kubu at Hotel Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve, by chef Bayu Retno Timur. I have been to all of the newer establishments except for Nic Vanderbeeken’s place (who changed to the new Restaurant Apéritif at Hotel Viceroy in 2019). So, I can let you know about what to expect at them. I find it amazing how the former fine dining backwater was able to turn into a vibrant culinary hotspot! And hence, there is no Michelin Guide for Bali, your best source probably are the lists at The World’s 50 Best Restaurants site.

5 top Ubud (casual) fine dining restaurants

I start with four of the best (casual) fine dining spots in Ubud (respectively Bali). From which, I visited three on my recent 2022 stay in Bali and one on an earlier occasion in 2016. Furthermore, there is one more, a second restaurant of a big name here. And it is a place that is a bit more down to earth than the others.

Restaurant Locavore

UPDATE: replaced by Locavore NXT as from December 2023

A wild ride through the most ingenious creations made by two enterprising chefs using local produce only

Locavore is the local gastronomic showpiece. It is definitely the place to go for a foodie if you have only one dinner in Ubud. But make sure to book well in advance as it is very popular. This is especially the case at the moment as the restaurant is coming to an end as one knows it. That does not mean that the busy team behind Locavore retires from Ubud’s culinary scene. Quite the opposite, it just enters a new phase. There is a new project under construction and opening in the second quarter of 2023 (see more). Until this happens, you still can enjoy the creations at the “old” Locavore. Precisely, you can taste their favorite fifty dishes from nine years of restaurant history, and this in the form of three different menus over the next time.

My husband and I had the pleasure of being served Exhibition Menu No 2, and this on the restaurant’s ninth birthday on the third of November 2022! Wow, what an experience! You get here, as the name says it, local produce. Chefs Eelke Plasmeijer (a born Dutchman) and Ray Adriansyah (from Jakarta) know how to enchant their clientele. They bring diners on a journey of discovery of the unknown. A series of dishes are served that surprise at every bite!

The 18-course menu costs 84 SFR/US$ and is divided into four explorations. You can include a drinks pairing for additional 33 SFR/US$, which I recommend. You get creative drinks, some with alcohol, others not (but no wine). And it really takes the dinner to a whole new level. The ambiance at Locavore was relaxed, the staff was friendly and knowledgeable, the service was adequately fast (we spent three hours and a quarter here).

Restaurant Room4Dessert

A discovery trip through Will Goldfarb’s sweet world (which also includes savory snacks for a start) in three parts

When my husband and I walked by the Restaurant Room4Dessert in Ubud’s outskirts in 2016, I thought that it would be nice to eat here. I had heard about Will Goldfarb’s place (opened in 2014), but I did not want to drag my husband to a dessert-only meal (he has not such a sweet tooth as I). Much has changed since then! The property of the American born pastry chef grew from a 100 sqm venue to a 1,000 sqm one with a garden that has 300 different plants and 100 types of trees! They all flow in his recipes in some way or the other. And Will Goldfarb was named The World’s Best Pastry Chef at the World’s 50 Best Restaurants awards in 2021!

When checking out the dining spot for dinner in November 2022, I found out that the experience was now different. You are in for a meal in three parts. After a tour through the garden you get seven savory snacks at the bar, seven desserts in the dining room and seven petit fours in the garden.

On our visit, it was up to Season 13 Part 2, The Golden Age.

The menu amounted to 77 SFR/US$ including spirits (for the second part), which we had. Alternatively, you can choose it with a spiritless tasting (65 SFR/US$) or without any drinks (53 SFR/US$).

There is young team of amiable and laid-back locals that takes care of you, overseen by the impressive personality of Will Goldfarb. The pastry chef is present wherever needed, has a word with a staff member or with his guests. I found his performance admirable! The same is true for the food. Already the snacks were persuasive. Yet the sweet treats were simply amazing! They started light and and became gradually richer. The treat is really worth it, even my husband was blown away! And the meal was paced just right, we were here three hours and a quarter.

Restaurant Blanco Par Mandif

UPDATE: out of business

Haute Indonesian degustation menus with a twist in an elegant, intimate setting

If you look for a fine dining restaurant that radiates classical elegance and an intimate feel, then this it.

Of course, food is a highlight too, you get here a modern take on Indonesian cuisine. And you clearly note that chef Mandif Warokka also drew inspiration from his stays abroad. After his first restaurant, Teatro Gastroteque serving French cuisine with a Japanese twist, he opened his current one inside the Blanco Renaissance Museum complex in 2015. It is small, with only 20 seats, boasting views of the Tjampuhan river.

This was the most expensive meal we had in Ubud. There are four menus to choose from, all with seven courses except the fourth one. First, Degustation (Adiboga), with seafood and meat, costing 116 SFR/US$. Second, Vegetarian (Giriloka) for 73 SFR SFRf/US$. Third, Pescatarian (Tirtaloka), with seafood, that amounts to 110 SFR/US$. Finally, there is Hakkaisan, a Sake dinner menu, with seafood and meat, paired with Sake, available for 134 SFR/US$. My husband and I had opted for the degustation menu, we had to make our choice already at the time of our booking.

As to the food, it was immaculate, in every aspect, and inventive too. The ambiance inhere was very quiet, almost serene. The hand-washing ritual that the a staff member performed with us at the start of the meal contributed to this impression. Staff was very polite and attentive. There were not many diners around on our visit, we had booked “the first slot” right after the restaurant opened. Luckily, I have to say, because after the fifth course, we heard a loud bang. And then the electricity went out and never came back until we left. They were able to provide the two remaining dishes and the petit fours, but of course the experience was compromised. What a pity! Yet it happens.

Restaurant Kubu at Hotel Mandapa

Well-made Mediterranean-European cuisine in bamboo dining cocoons

Our dinner at the signature restaurant at Hotel Mandapa, a Ritz Carlton Reserve, dates back to 2016, so my impressions may be somewhat blurred. I well remember that I was not so enthusiastic about our table in one of the nine private dining cocoons just by the Ayung river. Although this is supposed to be a popular seating, I would have preferred a regular table. It was a hot and humid evening so that I considered the cocoon as a bit constricting with no wind coming in. Anyway, these huts are an original idea for sure!

Another thing that I did not forget that it was pitch dark in these cocoons. We could almost not make out what we were getting served. This is always a pity, especially when the food is artistically arranged on the plates. And that was definitely the case here! Yet also the food quality and preparation knew how to persuade. Chef Bayu Retno Timur oversees the kitchen here, who looks back at 14 years of experience in the culinary industry within 5-star hotels. You get here well-executed Mediterranean inspired dishes. They are made with premium ingredients and served by accommodative and informative staff.

You can dine here à la carte (starters from 12 to 29 SFR/US$, mains from 17 to 34 SFR/US$, desserts 9 SFR/US$) or opt for one of the two tastings menus (The Gourmet: 7 courses for 76 SFR/US$ / The Essential: 5 courses for 54 SFR/US$). When my husband and I had dinner here in 2016, we had The Essential (then Degustation 6 for 46 SFR/US$), and we liked what we got! One final recommendation for outside guests: arrive early enough to take in the views!

Restaurant Nusantara by Locavore NXT

Contemporary Indonesian family-style dining by the flourishing food empire of Locavore

Locavore – see the dining spot that I mentioned first – is more than just a restaurant. Chef-owners Eelke Plasmeijer and Ray Adriansyah, who are beyond it, have developed it much further. There is the casual dining concept of Locavore To Go, the cocktail bars Night Rooster and Club Soda in Canggu, the Local Parts butcher shop with its Butcher’s Table, the R&D unit of Localab and Agency X, a F&B consultant company. And last but not least, Nusantara is also part of this family.

Nusantara by Locavore was opened in 2016, named after the Javanese word for archipelago. You have to know that Indonesia consists of 17,000 islands. Nusantara has made it its mission to showcase their signature dishes. Each is marked on the menu with its origin and is made with indigenous ingredients. The place is helmed by chef I Putu Dodik Sumarjana, who has worked his way up at Locovore. To prepare for the work here, he and his team travelled to different Indonesian islands to sample dishes and learn to cook them.

While Nusantara is not an actual fine dining restaurant, it is much more than a simple eatery showcasing local food. You get here traditional Indonesian cuisine in a contemporary experience. The menu changes regularly, but some favorites remain just as jukut kelor mesanten, a rich soup of moringa leaves, ground-spice paste and torch ginger cooked in a coconut – they roast the coconut over an open fire in front of the dining spot. It is about family-style dining here, you order a number of dishes and share them with your table companion. They recommend 2-3 small dishes (4-8 SFR/US$), 1-2 big dishes (9-14 SFR/US$), 1 rice (2 SFR/US$) and 1 dessert (3 SFR/US$) for two persons, which I found just right.

Everything we had was delicious! Staff is friendly and helpful. The setting is laid-back and charming with its rattan partitions and Batik prints.

Overall/Looking back

In this post I highlighted some of the best (casual) fine dining restaurants in Ubud. This town’s gastronomic scene has been undergoing a great development in the last decade. Serious foodies coming to Bali are no longer forced to leave this island disappointed, at least when it comes to dining in style. After eating at five of the top restaurants on the Islands of the Gods, I would like to give the remaining ones on my list (Restaurant Mozaic and Restaurant Apéritif) a try on a further trip!

In my Bali mini-series I also wrote about other topics than dining (this is the last post about the island). My first blogpost was about how to get the most out of a trip as demanding traveler (general info and where to go for sights plus luxury hotels). The second went into some of the best (easy) walks on the Island of the Gods. And the third informed about actual accommodations to choose here when longing to stay in style, divided by location.

Last date of stay: November 2022

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The post Some of the best (casual) fine dining restaurants in Ubud/Bali first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post Some of the best (casual) fine dining restaurants in Ubud/Bali appeared first on Swiss Traveler.