Here is the information on which luxury hotels to choose on a second journey to lesser-known Japan. It is about traveling Kyushu, Shikoku and unknown Honshu. In my last post, I provided the corresponding itinerary. I emphasize “second” trip because I think that there is no way around the royal way to discover Japan on a first trip. And this is by the (Extended) Golden Triangle/Route I described in the same post too. You have to know in this context that staying in typical Japanese hotels (ryokans and other boutique lodgings) is half the fun of traveling Japan. So, your choice of accommodation is of great importance. I am happy to advise on this by elaborating about the luxury hotels my husband and I opted for on our recent visit to off-the-beaten-path Japan.

Before I go further, find first My Google Map of a 3½-week Japan itinerary in style for second-timers. It comes with all the hotels, restaurants and activities we experienced complete with short descriptions.

Luxury hotels on lesser-known Japan trip

I mentioned it already, our second trip to off-the-beaten-path Japan went to Kyushu, Shikoku and unknown Honshu. While we had three stops in both Kyushu and Honshu, there was only one in Shikoku. So, I cannot give a complete picture of the latter. The itinerary of this Japanese journey was heavily influenced by the lodging options en route. Precisely, where there were no well-rated luxury hotels we did not stay.

In this context, I also have to stress that we usually do not pay excessive prices. If we think a hotel charges too much, then we cannot take it into consideration.

While we also had hotel stays in Osaka and Kyoto, I will not go into them – but you find the key points in My Google Map. Now to our choice of lodging and my comments to the individual places.

Our Kyushu luxury hotels in off-the-beaten-path Japan

After flying in from Osaka to Kagoshima, we started our Kyushu explorations from the south of this island and headed north, first to Unzen and Nagasaki City in its northwest, then to Yufuin/Beppu in its northeast. As I mentioned in my itinerary post, we traveled by rental car. So, we were flexible and did not need transportation for our explorations.

1. Izumi: RITA Izumi Fumato

Izumi on Kyushu’s southwestern coast is not a town you will find in every travel guide – it probably is not included in any of the usual ones. This is because it is not really a tourist place. There is Izumi Fumoto, a massive, beautifully preserved samurai residential district, but that is it. And this is why we came. I had discovered a gem of a hotel here, RITA Izumi Fumato. This is a unique samurai residence hotel with only six rooms, and these across three properties. It is about 100-year-old traditional samurai homes, which have been meticulously preserved.

While they feature wooden beams and tatami floors, they come with all the modern comforts (hotel opened in June 2022).

My husband and I did not think long and decided to start our Kyushu journey here. And we were more than happy with our stay! After a cordial welcome we settled in our room of choice, Akane (85 sqm) at the Miyaji Residence. It was huge and nicely decorated.

The one thing you have to know is that the walls are very thin. So, when it is cold outside, it is the same inside. Yet they have made provisions, there were two A/C units, three heaters and one air cleaner.

Staff was friendly and helpful throughout our stay, although their English was basic (better use Google Translate). Included in the rate (39,000 Yen/night, which was much value for money) was a fine breakfast at another residence (ten minutes by foot away).

While it was not necessarily hearty, it was big enough and consisted of a good mix of western and Japanese items. Rooms were cleaned daily, but it was only an eco cleaning (waste removal and water refill). Bottom line, we would return in a heartbeat!

2. Unzen: Unzen Miyazaki Ryokan

When it came to our Unzen accommodation, my husband and I hesitated for quite a long time between Unzen Miyazaki Ryokan

and another one recommended by the Michelin Guide, Ryotei Hanzuiryo. But we were not not fully convinced of the latter, especially price wise, so we opted for the former. And we were not disappointed! The hotel reopened in December 2025 after a thorough makeover. And I think it was very well done. I like the design, which is more contemporary than traditional. The lobby and the dining-room are beauties, both modern and kept in a dark-grey hue.

Out of the 39 guest rooms, we opted for a Premium Design Corner Room

with a Semi-Open-Air Bath (82 sqm, 150,741 Yen/night including dinner and access to lounge with free drinks). I was fond of  the layout and the modern furnishings. Also the bathroom was nice, however the onsen bath was a bit on the small side (only just large enough for two persons).

And having a corner room offered no extra benefit except a small side-facing window.

We received a warm welcome at this ryokan. Throughout our stay, the staff was convincing, from a thorough room cleaning to a pleasant dinner service and providing helpful information. They usually spoke good English. When the topic was a bit complex, they used Google Translate to convey their message clearly. As to dinner, we got a fine kaiseki meal with enough variety over the three nights we spent here.

Only the breakfast was a bit overwhelming with not only a box with lots of different food items in it, but a number of additional courses too

My verdict: I would return here without hesitation.

3. Yufuin: Enowa Yufuin Botanical Retreat

This was the first hotel we booked for this Japan trip. I learned of its opening (June 2023) when it became part of Relais & Châteaux. And I quickly fell in love with it as it appeared as something special. In particular, as it follows an ultra-local farm-to-table approach with its Jimgu Restaurant.

Here a chef is at the helm who worked many years at Blue Hill at Stone Barns in New York. This is not only a pioneer of the farm-to-table movement but has also has held two Michelin stars since 2019. And the food at this dining spot  (modern French) was really fantastic! Both dinner

and breakfast were hits. As to the latter, it was definitely the best I have ever had!

And the chef, Tashi Gyamtso from Tibet, is a nice guy, who chats with his guests when the occasion arises.

Not only the restaurant – an impressive roundhouse –

knows how to please but also the property (two Michelin Keys). It stretches across a huge terraced hillside

and is ultra modern with lots of natural materials used in its construction.  You find here 19 accommodations (9 rooms in the main building

and 10 standalone luxury villas along the hillside). My husband and I went for one of the entry-level rooms (78 sqm, 158,338 Yen/night with dinner). While I liked the outdoor onsen and its design,

I was not a huge fan of the layout (bed in front of the window – with no view to speak of – and sitting room in the rear – which was quite dark).

When it came to service, we were very happy with the manager, who turned out to be very attentive and helpful. Yet, we unfortunately did not have an ideal first encounter. At the time, we sensed that she wanted to push us to have dinner early to accommodate her schedule. As we were not ready to comply (we had reserved ages ago), she finally found a solution. Otherwise and overall, we had a very pleasant stay and would go there again without thinking twice.

A great luxury hotel in Shikoku, a lesser-known part in Japan

As you have learned before, we had only one stay on the island of Shikoku. This was in the hills above Matsuyama it its northwest. Here we found the following extraordinary luxury hotel in this part of lesser-known Japan.

Matsuyama: Setouchi Retreat by Onko Chishin

This is definitely not your usual luxury hotel! This property in the forested hills over Matsuyama, designed by renowned architect Tadao Ando,

was first a corporate guesthouse and then a modern art museum.

Since December 2015 it has been an exclusive, adults-only boutique hotel. When the hospitality brand of Onko Chishin took over, Tadao Ando was brought back to oversee the remodeling of this building. 

From this emerged a serene yet living art space – it actually doubles as art gallery – with seven suites only. All of them measure over 100 square meters. The hotel’s design embodies minimalist luxury, featuring clean lines and understated decor. What a pleasure for the eyes and the senses. Nothing unnecessary interferes with your inner peace. My husband and I chose a Half-Open-Air Hot Spring Suite with Forest View

(117,879 Yen/night with dinner and access to lounge with free drinks, one Michelin Key) and were delighted by it!

The most striking feature here is – yet everything is full of beauty – the magnificent pool that juts out over the mountain ridge. From this 30-meter/98-feet lap pool

you have the most fantastic views of the Seto Inland Sea.

Staff here is great, ensuring that every guest feels attended to and valued. As to food you are in for refined kaiseki cuisine.

The breakfast on our first day was designed to impress with a story to tell.

The ones that followed were less inspired and a bit on the small side, but still made with care. How wonderful that we found this treasure of a hotel!

Our luxury hotels in Japan’s lesser-known Honshu

After crossing the Seto Island Sea we did not venture far for our first stop on Honshu near Okayama. Then we headed to the so-called “Kyoto by the Sea”, the northern coastal region of Kyoto Prefecture about a 40-minute car ride from Kyoto. Our last stay in hidden Honshu was in the Mie Prefecture. Precisely, we stayed on the Shima Peninsula, a bit more than two and half hours by car south of Kyoto. And everywhere in this lesser-known Japan we found luxury hotels to our liking.

1. Kurashiki: Hotel Yoruya

The hotel’s best feature is its setting in a restored 110-year-old kimono merchant’s residence in Kurashiki’s Bikan Historical Quarter.

The renovation included historic and newly built structures, which were merged to create a unified entity (opened November 2024).

I liked the appeal of the property with a good mix of old and new. You would not guess that there is a luxury boutique hotel with 13 rooms behind the dark timber façade you meet on your arrival. This because the building looked more or less like all the other ones in this beautiful historic neighborhood. But unfortunately, there were some unfavorable aspects too.

Above all, I had mixed feelings about our room, a Maisonette-Renga

(48 sqm, 158,510 Yen/night with dinner). It was nicely designed

but the downstairs bathroom was not only rather cramped (sink area) but it was also chilly in here; both is true for the entrance hall too. And in the shower and tub area it was even freezing cold.

Then we encountered some culinary issues. Whereas we enjoyed our dinners,

the second one was a bit repetitive.

The Japanese breakfast was excellent,

in contrast to the western one on the second morning. We also faced some challenges with the staff. A minor point was the failure to refill the water in our room on the second day. I also had doubts about their attitude because of how we were seen off upon leaving. Almost everywhere else in Japan we got a farewell with fanfare. Here, one employee said goodbye but the superiors I had just seen disappear behind a curtain did not appear to join in.

After considering our experience at Yoruya, I believe we did not receive sufficient value for the significant amount we spent at this hotel. It remains unclear if any of the problems experienced here are related to the hotel being part of the Marriot portfolio (we saw quite many Americans under the guests too). Be it as it may, I am not sure whether we would choose to stay here again.

2. Kyoto by the Sea/Miyazu: Monjusou Shourotei

Monjusou Shourotei was the most traditional ryokan we had on this Japan trip.

That means there was a shoe-off policy right by the entrance and the meals took place in your own private dining-room. On arrival day, a staff member came to our guest room to show us to the one in question. Also the kaiseki dinner followed long-standing established standards. It was very good,

the same was true for the breakfast.

While everything was very elaborate on our first day, this was less so on our second day. This applies for both, diner and breakfast. But it was still an impressive affair.

The ryokan has an excellent location, just on a quiet, forested spit of land across the famous sandbar of Amanohashidate in Kyoto’s north.

Out of the 7 seven rooms, which are all newly renovated, we went for an entry-level one. It is about the one called Shoukin (101,400 Yen/night with dinner),  which is one of two traditional ones.

The room spans 25 sqm, constructed in the traditional 8 tatami-mats and 4-tatami mats configuration. You sleep on futon beds that are stored away during the day.

And you have a front-row view of the mentioned sandbar and the picturesque Aso Sea. The bathroom is small yet functionally furnished.

In contrast to the larger, more modern suites, there is no hot spring onsen. The premium ones also come with their own sleeping rooms.

During our hotel stay, we met the typically renowned Japanese hospitality. Everything was perfect from the start to the end. I would recommend this lodging without any reservation, especially so in case you want to experience how it is being in a truly traditional ryokan.

3. Shima Peninsula: The Hiramatsu Hotels & Resorts Kashikojima

Here in Kyoto’s south on the stunning Shima Peninsula you find the first property of the Hiramatsu hotel group, founded by chef Hiroyuki Hiramatsu.

This name achieved fame when its Paris location became the first Japanese-owned French restaurant to receive a Michelin star. The high standard of culinary excellence is applied in the Kashikojima kitchen too (chef Masato Imamura in charge). The menu merges classic French techniques with the high-quality produce of the region. You get here an outstanding multi-course dinner, which included not only premium ingredients but foie gras too.

And this was the case every night on our three-night stay. Also the breakfast was top-notch.

Due to its strong focus on gastronomic mastery, this lodging is considered as upscale fine-dining restaurant with rooms. There are eight of them, the smaller Deluxe ones in the main building, the larger Executives ones with private onsen in the Annexe (194,000 Yen/night with dinner). We had one of the latter

and loved the oversized bathroom with the onsen in its center in particular.

From here we had a great view of the scenic Ago Bay.

At Hiramatsu Kashikojima they operate on the concept of a western ryokan. While the food of course is not Japanese, other aspects are, just as having your meals at a private dining-room.

Michelin awarded the hotel a Michelin Key.

What struck me most here was how the staff monitored our coming and leaving. While we had experienced this in Japan before, here it was taken to the extreme. Yet they had good intentions and we did not really mind. When it came to their command of English, not all the employees were fluent but they succeeded to some extent. As to the service quality, they embodied the classic celebrated Japanese hospitality at its best. My verdict: come here for excellent French cuisine as well as cordial and attentive service.

About my second trip to lesser-known Japan posts

While this post was about all the luxury hotels my husband and I were (without Osaka and Kyoto) on our second trip to lesser-known Japan, my first went into the underlaying itinerary. Here I made one of My Google Maps that come with the route, all the upscale lodgings, fine-dining restaurants and cafés plus the activities.

The topic of my next and last blog post will be about the fine-dining spots we were on this journey outside of the hotels we stayed.

In this context, you have to be aware of the fact that the dinner in Japan is often included in the accommodations you typically find here, especially in the countryside (ryokans and similar establishments). So, there is in many cases no need to look out for off-site restaurants. Though, we had quite a few of them and – as almost always – I frequently relied on the Michelin Guide when choosing them.

Date of stay: April 2026

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Have you done Japan’s (Extended) Golden Triangle/Route already, and are you looking for an off-the-beaten-path itinerary for a second visit? Here I may provide some advice, especially in case you care for staying and dining in style. Yet, it is preferable do this trip by rental car – which is not such a big deal (I give some tips below). The journey brings you to Kyushu, Shikoku and some lesser travelled parts of Honshu. My post includes a Google My Map with all the places my husband and I went, along with brief information about them. In further blogposts, I will go into some highlights experienced along the route, precisely luxury hotels and fine-dining restaurants. But now to the rarely explored Japan travel plan for second-timers to Japan.

Before delving into the subject, some remarks to the first Japan trip we did back in 2019, which went to the Extended Golden Triangle/Route and some side trips. Also find some information about traveling Japan by rental car.

The Golden Triangle/Route in Japan

Most first-time travelers to Japan do the Golden Triangle or the Golden Route as it is also called. My husband and I were no exceptions here. Yet, we had decided to extend Tokyo (the modern capital), Kyoto (the cultural heart) and Osaka (the culinary hub)

by adding some more places. First, we included the Japanese Alps, a loop including Kanazawa, Shirakawa-go and Takayama. This is also called the Extended Golden Triangle or the Extended Golden Route.

Then we chose two classic side trips too (Hakone and Nara).

Finally, we visited two off-the-beaten path destinations as well (Yakushima Island and Kiso Valley).

This  itinerary is ideal if you have three weeks available for your Japan journey. In case you have only two weeks for this, then I would opt for the Extended Golden Triangle/Route. And if you have not more than eight days, rather go for the Golden Triangle/Route.

Find here all my blog posts about our first Japan trip: itinerary, hotels, find and reserve restaurants, (specific) restaurants, ryokan stay, off-the-beaten-path destinations (Kiso Valley and Yakushima Island).

Travel Japan by rental car

General

While most visitors to Japan decide to travel the country by using the efficient and convenient rails system, getting around by rental car is an option too. This is advisable in particular if you also want to explore rural Japan. Skip the rental in major cities just as Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka. Rent a car only for regional travel in areas like the Japanese Alps or Kyushu.

On our first journey, we drove by car from Tokyo to Hakone, then further to Kiso Valley, Kanazawa, Takayama and Kyoto. The rest we did by train and plane.

This time, we rented a car in Kagoshima, after flying in from Osaka. We drove all the way through Kyushu to Shikoku and later to Honshu. Here we visited a couple of lesser known rural destinations before returning the car in Kyoto.

Now to some practical information in terms of getting around by rental car in Japan.

Tips for taking a road trip in Japan

For traveling by rental car in Japan you must carry an International Driving Permit (IDP) issued under the 1949 Geneva Convention. Reserve a vehicle with an English-language GPS and request an ETC (Electronic Toll Collection) card for toll highways.

When it comes to navigating, use Mapcodes instead of inserting addresses into systems, which can be challenging. Mapcodes are 6-to-12 digit numeric codes that convert exact GPs coordinates into simple numbers. Unlike in the west, Japanese addresses are based on blocks or districts rather than sequential street names. So, the use of Mapcodes is recommended which can pinpoint a 3-meter by 3-meter/10-feet by 10-feet square.

To find a Mapcode before your trip, look up the coordinates on the Mapcode website. Once done so, type the number into the “Mapcode” option on a Japanese rental car’s built-in GPS.

You have to be aware of Japan’s strict traffic rules too. Not only drive on the left side of the road but also come to a complete stop before crossing railroad tracks. And there is a zero-tolerance policy for drinking and driving. And it may be a good idea to opt for a so-called kei car (light vehicle). Its small size allows you to drive without problems on narrow rural roads or in tight cities.

My Google Map of a 3½-week off-the-beaten-path Japan itinerary for second-timers

Basic motivation

After having explored the frequently traveled Extended Golden Triangle on Japan’s main island of Honshu last time, my husband and I  longed for a more off-the-beaten-path Japan itinerary on our second visit. We had in mind to discover some parts of two more islands, i.e. Kyushu and Shikoku. Furthermore – as we flew in to and out of Osaka – , we wanted to get to know some more places in Honshu that are outside the usual ones foreign travelers go to.

Apart from the above basic motivation, we had to fulfil one more need of ours. And that was about our striving to stay at nice hotels and dine at fine restaurants. So, we only chose places where you find well-rated luxury lodging (my post) and upscale dining.

In case you wonder which website is best suited for travel information about Japan, my personal favorite is Japan Guide.

Detailled travel plan Kyushu-Shikoku-unknown Honshu, an off-the-beaten-path Japan itinerary 

1. Osaka/Honshu (2 nights)

I already hinted about our second-time Japan itinerary  – when I described our getting around by car. In more details, we flew in to Osaka where we spent two nights. As we had been here before, we took it easy and did not do too much sightseeing.

2. Kyushu (9 nights)

After flying to Kagoshima, we picked up our rental car and drove to our first destination on the island of Kyushu. After having trouble to find a suitable hotel in the Kirishima region near by the airport, we headed further to Izumi on Kyushu’s west coast (3 nights).

We ended up there in this untouristy spot because I had stumbled on a unique luxury boutique hotel in Izumi City. It is set inside the oldest and largest preserved samurai residential area in the Kagoshima Prefecture.

The next stop was in the Nagasaki Prefecture, where we wanted to explore the volcanic area around Unzen

and Nagasaki City (3 nights).

Our last destination on Kyushu lead us to the Oita Prefecture. Here we were attracted by Yufuin

and Beppu,

two onsen/hot spring towns, in particular (3 nights).

3. Shikoku (3 nights)

We crossed by ferry from Kyushu to Shikoku, which saved us a detour of a few hours. The one and only stop here was in Matsuyama, the capital of Ehime Prefecture.

It sits on the coast of the scenic Seto Inland Sea. Not only features it some major sights but you also find a few quaint rural heritage towns nearby.

4. Unknown Honshu (7 nights)

After leaving Shikoku we headed north to the Okayama Prefecture. Our first stop was in Kurashiki, a charming historic canal city (2 nights) near Okayama City.

From here we also visited the art island of Naoshima.

Then my husband and I continued to the so-called “Kyoto by the Sea”. This is a coastal region in the northern Kyoto Prefecture facing the Sea of Japan. Here we concentrated on two of its top highlights. This is Amanohashidate, a natural sandbar ranked as one of “Japan’s Three Most Scenic Views”,

and Ine no Funaya, a picturesque fishing village (2 nights).

The last of three spots we went in “unknown Honshu” was in the Mie Prefecture, a coastal region south of Kyoto. Precisely, we stayed in the Ago Bay at the southern tip of the Shima Peninsula. This region not only has a splendid jagged-edged coastline but is also the birthplace of modern pearl cultivation.

Furthermore, the ultimate spiritual destination in Japan of Ise Grand Shrine is not far away (3 nights).

5. Kyoto/Honshu (3 nights)

To end our 24-night second trip to Japan, we spent three nights in Kyoto. On our way to this city

This after already staying here for four nights on our first Japan journey. As we had already done the major sights in Japan’s cultural heart back in 2019, we took it easy here. On the one hand, we checked out the area where our boutique hotel was located, the historic riverside district of Gojo Rakuen (Kamo River and Takase River). On the other hand, we revisited the Higashiyama district, one of Kyoto’s best-preserved historic ones. Here we explored off-the-beaten-track attractions, as far as possible.

On our departure day, we took a direct train ride from Kyoto Station to Kansai International Airport in Osaka, which takes about 75 to 85 minutes.

After going into our off-the-beaten-path itinerary for our second Japan trip, you might wonder how it was. Did the route meet the standards we set?

Itinerary evaluation off-the-beaten-path second trip to Japan

Overall

The royal road to discover Japan’s jewels is visiting Honshu, in particular Kyoto. Nowhere else you encounter so many striking historic destinations. Unfortunately, this cultural center is overtouristed. While in 2019, Japan counted 31.9 million tourists, there were already 42.9 million in 2025. And most of them did probably go to Kyoto too. Of course, my husband and I noticed the difference in this city between our first trip in 2019 and the actual one in 2026. There were tons of travelers in its prominent districts in the current year, and especially many young westerners. Surprisingly, Kyoto was the only spot of our journey where this fact stood out to me.

In all the other places we went the clientele was mixed, be it age-wise or origin-wise. In this context, you have to know that most Japan visitors come from Asian countries such as South Korea, China or Taiwan. Westerners only make up about 15 to 20% of all tourists.

While Honshu boasts grand imperial cities, which are places of longing for first-timers to Japan, you have more choices as second-timer. Kyushu has not such a large overall volume of historic districts. Instead it is rich in well-preserved samurai and merchant towns.

And it is known as an onsen/hot spring paradise. Shikoku on the other side has fewer historic towns than both Honshu and Kyushu, but it stands out for its genuine character and rural charm.

Kyushu

1. Izumi

Izumi was a great start for our Kyushu explorations due to its countryside allure and the low tourist numbers. I do not think that this rural town sees a lot of western travelers. Being here was a soothing experience, and this without lacking to stay and dine in style. Notabene for prices that were much lower than everywhere else we went on this trip.

2. Unzen & Nagasaki

Unzen, an onsen resort town,  and Nagasaki City, both popular tourist destinations, were not devoid of visitors but not really crowded. Only one sight in Nagasaki, Clover Garden with its western mansions,

felt somewhat cramped. By the way, my husband and I liked the vibe of this port city with its striking hilly landscape.

3. Dazaifu near Fukuoka

When transferring to Yufuin, we made a side trip to Dazaifu in Fukuoka’s south. It is about a supposedly charming historic town with its Tenmangu Shrine, the head shrine of over 10,000 such ones all over Japan. While the latter is impressive and well worth a visit, the approach to it was incredibly congested with large Asian tour groups queuing for souvenirs and street food. It was not really a pleasant experience, so we quickly left this tourist trap.

4. Yufuin & Beppu

The same situation as in Dazaifu happened  in Yufuin too. Here Asian day-trippers coming by buses from Fukuoka filled the Main Street, which is lined with souvenir shops, snack stalls and cafés.

And the picturesque Lake Kinrin at the dead-end of this street overflew with crowds. My husband and I found the ambiance appalling and quickly retreated to our peaceful and quiet hotel located in the hills above town. As to the nearby “Hells of Beppu” (geothermal ponds), they were busy but not too much so – maybe with the exception of pond number one (do not buy the entrance ticket here to escape the crowds).

Shikoku

We only went to the northwestern part of Shikoku, precisely the area around Matsuyama, and to the island of Naoshima – which is closer to Honshu. So,  I cannot really give an holistic view of the whole island. For my part, I am fan of Shikoku. Its primary appeal lies in offering an untouched, off-the-beaten-path contrast to more visited places on the main island of Honshu.

Matsuyama does have a relaxed vibe so we felt much at ease here. It is laid out over a large area and does not feature many skyscrapers. Apart from some major sights – one of few original samurai-era castles and a beautiful historic bathhouse (Dogo Onsen) – ,

there are also pleasant business districts and neighbourhoods. And I loved strolling around the nearby historic small  towns of Uchiko

and Ozu (visit here Garyu Sanso, a century-old mountain villa), which felt authentic.

Unknown Honshu

1. Onomichi

En route from Shikoku to our first stop in Honshu we made a halt in Onomichi, a charming, hilly port city in the Hiroshima Prefecture. We came here to do the Onomichi Temple Walk that connects 25 distinct Buddhist temples. An activity I recommend as it offers not only a cultural insight but also old-world Japanese neighbourhood charm and stunning vistas of the Seto Inland Sea. And the number of visitors was low.

2. Kurashiki

More people were around in Kurashiki but not too much so, at least towards evening. You come here for the Bikan Historical Quarter whose heart is a willow-lined canal district from the 17th century. As it escaped destruction during World Wart II, its old-world structures are intact. It is full of striking kura (merchant storehouses).

3. Kyoto by the Sea

When it comes to our next stop in unknown Honshu, the so-called Kyoto by the Sea, there was tourism on our stay, but it was not overwhelming. The Pine Sandbar of Amanohashidate is quite a point of attraction but if you walk a bit further – it is 3.6 km/2.2 mi long – , then you are almost on your own.

Ine, the nearby fishing village famous for its funaya boat houses, was uncrowded except of the Hinode Pier where the large tour groups boarded. We in contrast used a sea taxi to get a close-up view of the wooden boat houses from the water.

4. Ago Bay in the south of Shima Peninsula 

There is tourism on the Shima Peninsula, but in varies by location. While there was not much on our stay in its very southeast (between Anorisaki and Daiosaki Lighthouses),

you find quite some folks in the Ago Bay, e.g. at the Yokoyama Observation Deck. And lots of visitors (pilgrims and tourists) flock to the Ise Shrines, the holiest in Shintoism.

Conclusion to rarely explored Kyushu-Shikoku-unknown Honshu Japan itinerary 

Did our second trip to Japan fulfill our expectations for a rewarding, off-the-beaten-path experience? Overall, I would agree. First in Kyushu, I longed for the well-preserved historical towns I remember from the Extended Golden Triangle/Route. Then I began to appreciate the more relaxed pace here paired with subtropical nature, volcanic landscapes and top hot springs. In Shikoku I loved the true essence of rural Japan that I encountered here. And in “Unknown Honshu” as I call it, we could enjoy amazing, lesser-visited attractions.

Yet I personally think that our second Japan trip was only truly complete because of the hotels we chose. We had everything, ranging from a former samurai residence to a previous corporate guest house respectively an art museum, modern and traditional ryokans and a former kimono merchant’s residence. You cannot think a Japan journey without the one-of-a-kind experiences you make in these unique accommodations I mentioned.

Therefore, my upcoming blog post will cover the accommodations from our second trip to lesser-known Japan. These often included the dinner, think of elaborate kaiseki meals.

Date of stay: April 2026

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Are you a fine-dining lover heading to Singapore? And this in search of the possibly best three-star Michelin restaurant here? Maybe a nearby luxury hotel would also suit you? Then I might help out. When my husband and I planned our fourth stopover in Singapore, we wanted to stay in a part of the city where we had not been before. Plus, we longed for having a second dinner at the three-star Michelin Restaurant Les Amis Singapore where we had eaten back in 2019. It was awarded two Michelin stars back then, and we enjoyed here maybe one of the best meals we ever had. As regulars at COMO Hotels and Resorts, we knew about the recently opened COMO Metropolitan Singapore. And as it is located in the Orchard Road area – where Les Amis Singapore is too – , we found it perfect for our purposes.

Before coming to our recent Singapore trip, here first a brief look back at our earlier stays in this city. Precisely, I want to go into the lodgings where we have already stayed. Plus, I would like to let you know why Restaurant Les Amis Singapore stood out to us at the time.

Fabulous luxury hotels in Singapore – our past choices

When visiting Singapore for the the first time in 2015, my husband and I wanted to be at the famous Raffles Hotel Singapore.

This longtime landmark with its colonial-style architecture is some kind of “living national monument”. And we enjoyed our stay here immensely. Having said that, rates here have skyrocketed meanwhile – after a costly renovation.

On our return visit to Singapore in 2016, we opted for another prominent hotel in town. It is about the favorably located Fullerton Bay Hotel Singapore.

This accommodation – opened in 2010 – is on the historic Clifford Pier only steps away from some major attractions. My husband and I loved the contemporary guest room with unobstructed views of the Singapore skyline and Marina Bay in particular.

When coming back to this city in 2019, we chose yet another hotel. And this time it was in the historic Tanjong Pagar district. This area, not that known with non-natives, is just south of Chinatown. Its situation is not only central enough but has an additional feature. Precisely, there are lots of beautiful ancient shophouses lining the streets. Unfortunately, the property we stayed at the time – Six Senses Maxwell,

a restored colonial-style building – does no longer operate under the Six Senses brand. It closed down in May 2020 after being opened only in December 2018.

First visit to Restaurant Les Amis Singapore

On our last Singapore trip in 2019, we had been looking for a dining spot to celebrate a special occasion. This led us to the award-winning Les Amis Singapore (two Michelin stars at the time). First, we found the pricing a bit steep yet it soon became evident that Restaurant Les Amis is a top-tier dining experience worth every penny! Not only the food – modern French classics with ingredients sourced from France – was excellent,

but the ambiance and the service too. And the same was true for the wines – they were happy to show us the really impressive wince cellar

back then. As we had so fond memories of our dinner at Les Amis Singapore, my husband and I craved for another visit to this place!

Our 2025 Singapore stay in style

Now to our recent Singapore style, which was short but intense. We used this city as stopover destination back home from Australia where we spent a wonderful time in Western Australia (find my posts here: itinerary, staying & dining in style, best activities). When flying in from Perth late in the evening, we skipped the dinner on this day. And as we flew out the evening after next – again late – , we only had one full day for our Singapore adventure. During the day, we revisited the Singapore Botanic Gardens, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and in the evening, we dined at Restaurant Les Amis Singapore, again for a special occasion as last time.

In the following, I want you to know how it was staying and dining in style in Singapore. And I have a third treat for you as well, at least in case you are a pastry lover. This is because Hotel COMO Metropolitan Singapore – where we lodged –

houses a pastry shop of the celebrated Cédric Grolet.

He used to be pastry chef at the Michelin starred Restaurant Le Meurice in Paris. And he has become a social media sensation with millions of followers because of his new approach on pastry.

1. Hotel COMO Metropolitan Singapore

As already informed, we chose this hotel because we had experienced satisfying stays at other COMO properties in the past. In the case of COMO Metropolitan Singapore, it is the first of the locally based COMO hotel group to open in Singapore. Unfortunately, upon our late arrival, we were told that it was COMO Metropolitan Singapore’s second anniversary. Thus, a huge party was underway. That meant that the lobby lounge and the rooftop bar were closed to hotel guests. They referred us to their COTE Restaurant & Bar for a drink, but their barman “forgot” us after handing out the menu. So, we left and tried their main restaurant, COMO Cuisine. Sadly, it was almost empty and they were preparing to close for the night. In consequence, we retreated to our room for a night cap from their (complimentary) mini bar.

Guest rooms

After this – not that ideal start – we settled into the guest room, one of 156 in total over 11 floors. It was clean-lined and contemporary, furnished with high-end furniture. I liked how stylish it was, but I was perplexed that there was already some damage (missing closet handle, scratched floor). And the lighting setup was barely understandable. Yet overall, I was content with the room (Emerald Room).

I not only liked its design but also its size (36 sqm) and its city views through wall-to-wall windows. Plus, I found it moderately priced (410 S$/250 SFR/324 US$ without breakfast).

Facilities

As to COMO Metropolitan Singapore’s facilities, the 19-story tower gathers all the COMO brands under one roof, from the mentioned luxury hospitality to the fashion retail to wellness and dining. As to the spa, there is the first-rate COMO Shambhala. Plus, two floors are here for Club 21, a fashion retailer. Then there are the already mentioned COTE Singapore, an outpost of a Michelin-starred Korean Steakhouse, COMO Cuisine and Cédric Grolet Patisserie (see the section after next). Plus, you find the Sky Bar and the Lobby Lounge on the premises.

Apart from our breakfast at Cédric Grolet – see further down – , my husband and I had breakfast at COMO Cuisine too. As to its interiors, I would describe them as a bit strange, mildly put. The supports are covered with silver foam sheets tied with bands. And the chairs have the appearance of such ones you use in an outdoor setting. They serve a cuisine representing Singapore’s different populations groups. In terms of breakfast, a continental one is available plus a number of hot dishes. To my surprise, the offerings at the breakfast counter (continental) only included pastries, cereals, yoghurt pots, seasonal fruits, green salad and toast. That was it, you found here no cheese, cold cuts or bread (other than toast).

Regarding the Sky Bar on the roof top – along a lovely pool – ,

we only had a look around. You really have impressive city views from here. And the present server was friendly enough to show us the premises.

In the Lobby Lounge Bruno is on duty. This is the hotel’s resident robot barista, a real fun thing! And the offer is complimentary for hotel guests.

Service wise, we generally considered the staff throughout the hotel as polite, considerate and helpful.

2. Restaurant Les Amis Singapore

I have already shared some details about Les Amis Singapore above.

Again, we had here one of the most memorable dinner we ever had! It was even more impressive than last time, maybe because we had this time the tasting menu (565 S$/343 SFR/447 US$) or they had received their third Michelin star in the meantime. But first things first. We were amiably received by the host, who ushered us to the same (excellent) table we had last time. The interiors had been redone since our visit in 2019, yet the dining room kept the same elegant attire it had.

Unchanged was also the graceful attitude of the staff. Even the maître d’ was the same as last time.

Just as on our first visit, he made a great contribution to making our dinner a truly enjoyable one!

Back story Restaurant Les Amis Singapore

Les Amis Singapore is a thoroughly French Restaurant that has been in business since 1994. At the time, it was Singapore’s first independent fine-dining spot. It was founded by  like-minded friends – hence the name “Les Amis”, “Friends” in English – who loved France, its culture and cuisine. The chef here is Sebastien Lepinoy, who has been in charge since 2013. He uses only prized seasonal ingredients, sourced from all over France. In 2016, he made Les Amis one of just six restaurants to be rated two-stars when the Michelin Guide debuted in Singapore. And that was not all! In September 2019, just weeks after we dined here for the first time, the dining spot was promoted to three stars.

Regarding our recent experience at Les Amis, food wise, it even exceeded our (skyhigh) expectations.

Food experience at Restaurant Les Amis Singapore

It was a true epicurean experience from A to Z at Restaurant Les Amis Singapore, one highlight followed another. As mentioned we opted for the Tasting Menu, which came in 13 parts. In contrast to most other fine-dining spots, bread plays a major role throughout the dinner. The experience started with a large loaf of Sourdough Bread that was presented before us. After enjoying a slice with their Beillevaire Artisanal Butter, already the snacks came with another piece of bread, a mini croissant. Next was one of my personal favorites of the meal, Parisian Style Egg Mimosa with Oscietra Caviar from Sologne. Again, it was paired with a small baguette. Minutes after the course was served, another savory pastry arrived. And then it was time to make our choice from a richly stocked bread trolley. It was delivered after the fish course, Line-Caught Turbot form L’Île-d’Yeu.

A granita made of five different summer herbs cleaned the palate. Then the dinner proceeded in the same excellent vein it started! A fabulous Duck from Vendée with Foie Gras made up the main course. Eventually, the cheese trolley appeared, from which the maître d’ put together two plates for us to share according our wishes. And of course, bread came with it as well. The pre-dessert was their signature dark chocolate tart, decorated for the occasion. An Apple Soufflé with Calvados and Cider Ice Cream followed. Finally, the feast was rounded up with a few petit fours.

Before leaving the restaurant, it was time for a visit to the wine cellar – as last time. Again, it was filled with an astonishing selection of French wines.

 3. Cédric Grolet Singapore

Back story Cédric Grolet

Now to the star patissier Cédric Grolet. As already mentioned he did his most important career step at the restaurant at Hotel Le Meurice in Paris when he became head pastry chef in 2013. At the time, the restaurant was helmed by Yannick Alléno (from 2003 to 2013) who got three Michelin stars in 2007. When Alain Ducasse took it over in 2013, he gave Grolet the chance to create the desserts on his menu. Although Le Meurice lost its third star three years later, this seemed to have no negative impact on the head pastry chef’s further career. Alain Ducasse gave him two tasks. First, he wanted him to cut back the sweetness and instead highlight the natural tase of the ingredients. Second, he should create desserts that stimulate the senses. And so Cédric Grolet specialized in fruit-based desserts that look identical to the real fruit.

In 2018, he was named the “World’s Best Pastry Chef” and opened his first pastry shop within Le Meurice Paris. A second one in Paris followed soon, then three more in London, Singapore and Saint-Tropez. And he expanded his product range from sculpted fruits to piped floral pastries, croissants and others. In 2025, the successful entrepreneur opened his latest shop, and this in Monaco at Hôtel de Paris Monte-Carlo. At the same time, he also joined as the executive pastry chef for this venue.

My history with Cédric Grolet

Although I am not an avid social media user, I became aware of Cédric Grolet on Instagram. Here he has been publishing posts about how he makes his appealing sweet creations for ten years. From what I read, he meanwhile has over 20 million followers. Plus, he leads a team of 450 employees. I found this impressive and wanted to visit one of his shops on my travels the first time an occasion arises.

To my total surprise, I discovered that there was a Cédric Grolet shop at the hotel my husband and I had booked for our recent Singapore stopover (COMO Metropolitan Singapore). Of course, I took the chance to have breakfast here, which was easy to arrange by the way. In this context I have to admit that I was a bit worried about the outcome of this experience. This was because the Google critics for this spot were not really good. And this was the case not only for Singapore but for at all his other shops I checked. So, I was curious what would be in store for us at Cédric Grolet Singapore.

How it was at Cédric Grolet Singapore

We had booked the first slot in the morning (08:30 AM) on a weekday). Upon arrival, we found the stylish café astonishingly unbusy.

We had pre-ordered a savory breakfast set for 85 S$ (52 SFR/68 US$) per person, which includes a a sweet part too. Alternatively, you can opt for a sweet breakfast set only (60 S$/37 SFR/ 48 US$). And there is also the option to go for à la carte. While this might sound like a lot of money for a breakfast, you get much value for money.

First, they served a giant Croissant, followed by the second (savory) course. Here we could make our choice out of Avocado Toast, Benedict Croissant, Quiche Lorraine or Jambon Beurre (basically a ham sandwich). My husband selected the Avocado Toast, I went for  the Quiche Lorraine. Before I could savor my croissant, the quiche came. And I could not believe how huge it was. The avocado toast was a bit less so but still big. Finally, the sweet part was served. It was about two beautiful waffles paired with vanilla double cream and caramelized pecan custard. I would describe them as normal in size but the accompaniments were rather substantial.

In terms of how everything tasted, the quality met my (high) expectations. I took the Croissant away and had it later in the afternoon. It was still excellent, lighter and less buttery than I expected. The quiche was rich and flavorful, one of the better I have ever had. And the waffles were exquisite (and beautiful), different from all the others I have ever tasted.  Plus, the caramelized pecan custard was heavenly! I spooned up the rest when we finished the waffles … As to the service, it was friendly, subtle and attentive. A staff member brought me more napkins when he thought I could use them, and he was right! The experience we had at Cédric Grolet was wonderful – I cannot fault it at all. And I cannot understand the bad reviews!

Date of stay: September 2025

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Western Australia, short WA, has lots to offer for nature lovers, but there is also something for wine aficionados and even for urbanites. However, for the latter, Perth is the only true city here. If you have a preference for wine, the most popular wine regions are Margaret River and Swan Valley. And in terms of natural wonders, you find in WA a variety of great national parks, often in coastal areas. When traveling Western Australia on a four-week trip in the early Australian spring, my husband and I went all the way from Exmouth in the north to Esperance on the southeast coast. Find out in the following about the best activities in this part of Western Australia.

I start with Perth as most visitors start their journey from here, at least when they come by plane. So it serves as a springboard for many to the best things to do in Western Australia’s countryside. Then I go into two wine regions. And I end with a bunch of must-do national parks in Western Australia. One piece of information at the end, Western Australia is known as Wildflower State as it has over 12,000 species of wildflowers that bloom each year. And 60 percent of them are found nowhere else on the planet. So, spring is the perfect time to visit Australia’s biggest state!

Perth, the springboard to the best activities in Western Australia

There is no city of comparable size – there are more than two million people in its metropolitan area – in the world that is so remote. Perth is closer to Jakarta, Indonesia, than from Sidney. And it is quicker, easier and cheaper to fly to Bali from here than to Australia’s east coast. Yet it is a fantastic place to come if you love sun, sand and sea and care for good food and wine. Perth has lots of sunshine, about 8.8 hours per day, which makes it Australia’s sunniest capital city. It has a Mediterranean climate with hot, dry summers and mild, wet winters. So, it is a city with a strong outdoor lifestyle.

In terms of inner-city sights, there is Elisabeth Quay.

This is a modern waterfront precinct with restaurants, playgrounds and the iconic Bell Tower. Perth’s historic heart with a number of heritage buildings is worth visiting too.

And walking up towards Kings Park, one of the world’s largest inner-city parks, is a great thing to do too. From the top of Jacob’s Ladder, leading to this large green area, you have a good view of Perth’s downtown.

If you like to walk/hike, why not do the South Perth Foreshore,

a circular tour starting from Elisabeth Quai and walking across Narrows as well as Boorloo Bridges (11.8km/7.3mi, 2.30h).

If heading out of town, then must-dos are Freemantle,

a historic town where the Swan River meets the Indian Ocean.

Visit Freemantle Prison

where exciting tours await you. And if the weather is favorable – we were not that lucky – , hop over to Rottnest Island. It is only a short ferry ride away from Freemantle and impresses with the famous quokkas – some kind of small kangaroos – and plenty of scenic nature that you can explore via a wide bike net.

Wine regions in Western Australia

Once having explored Perth, it is not far to the nearest best activities in Western Australia’s countryside. It is about the state’s key wine regions, which are in its southwest. Margaret River is probably its most famous, known for Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, grown here thanks to coastal influences. Swan Valley, the state’s oldest wine region, is close to Perth. There is a Mediterranean climate here, where you find a wide range of wine styles from sparkling to fortified ones. And there is also the Great Southern, a large, diverse region with cooler subregions. Here they grow premium Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Shiraz.

My husband and I made stops in two wine regions, Margaret River (our focus)

and Swan Valley.

1. Margaret River wine region, Western Australia’s best activity for wine lovers

We stayed three nights in the area and went to the region’s oldest winery of Vasse Felix, established in 1967.

Here we had booked the Cellar Experience. While it was a very interesting tour, it was quite costly too (350$ per person). It includes a walk through the property’s oldest vines, a visit to the historic wine museum and a wine tasting

of the winery’s leading Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay varieties.

Following all this, the experience continues upstairs in the award-winning Vasse Felix Restaurant (15/2 Hats AGFG)  for a five-course tasting menu (delicious modern food),

accompanied by the Icon Wines, their signature ones.

2. Swan Valley wine region

As we only had two nights in the Swan Valley just before flying out, which in addition were immediately after our Margaret River stay, we decided not to visit a winery again. I had thought about going to Sandalford Wines, a cornerstone here since 1840. It also features a good dining spot, Sandalford Restaurant (12/1Hat AGFG). Mandoon Estate with its varied offerings would have been another option. Here you find another gourmet spot, Restaurant Wild Swan (13/1Hat). And both of these winery eateries only have a lunch service, which seems to be a common thing in Australia.

Instead of checking out a Swan Valley winery, we chose some other of the best activities in this part of rural Western Australia. Precisely, we visited the lovely town of Guildford

and went for a walk in the Bells Rapids Park.

5 of the best national parks in Western Australia

The highlight of the best activities in Western Australia is without doubt exploring some of its magnificient national parks. When traveling the state from Exmouth to Esperance, my husband and I visited five of them. All of them were a hit. I start with the most northern one we went to and end with the one furthest on the state’s southeastern coast.

1. Cape Range National Park, Exmouth

Cape Range National Park is part of the Nigaloo UNESCO World Heritage Site near Exmouth. Here you find the Nigaloo Reef, Australia’s largest fringing coral reef. It is home to over 500 fish species, 600 species of mollusc and 300 species of coral. It is a brilliant spot to go snorkeling, which you can do right from the water’s edge. If you are wondering where to go as beginner, Oyster Stacks at high tide (check this out beforehand to avoid destroying the corals)

and Turquoise Bay (northern part of the beach) are great places to do so.

While the former is a bit difficult to access because of rocky terrain, the latter is easier to get in (right from the beach).

There is more to do at Cape Range National Park than snorkeling. Apart from camping, wildlife viewing and boat cruises (Yardie)

it is popular for hiking too. Mandu Mandu Gorge (Class 4 Difficult) and Yardie Gorge (two trails) are probably your best options here. My husband and I went for the latter. Here you can limit yourself to the Yardie Nature Walk (Class 1 Easiest, 1.2km/0.8mi return) or do the longer Yardie Gorge Trail (Class 4 Difficult 2km/1.2mi return, 45min).

We did the second one, which we did not find overly difficult apart from the last part with two steep gradients with rough, uneven surface. For another easy walk head to Sandy Bay where you can go on a paved trail to Osprey Bay (2.3km return 30min).

2. Francois Peron National Park, Denham

Francois Peron National Park in Shark Bay/Denham is famous for its stunning contrast of red cliffs, turquoise water and white sand.

The former sheep station is an excellent place for spotting marine life from cliffs. Sightings include dolphins, sea cows, rays

and turtles. As to land animals you find her kangaroos and echidnas. Other activities are camping, swimming, fishing, snorkeling and canoeing. And you can visit the Peron homestead precinct with a visitor center, a self-guided trail and an artesian hot tub. BUT you can only come if you have a high-clearance 4WD with low range. And you should have driving experience in such terrain and know how to air-down the tires (air-down station provided).

As we only had a regular 4WD and did not have experience in driving sandy tracks, we opted for a guided tour. For this purpose, we booked a full-day tour with Shark Bay Eco Tours, Denham.

And we had a great day with Siri, our kind and informative Dutch guide. It was filled with experiencing beautiful landscapes, wildlife viewing, brief talks, short walks, gourmet snacks and lunch as well as transport in a comfortable bus.

3. Kalbarri National Park, Kalbarri, one of the best activities in Western Australia

Kalbarri National Park with its varied offer of inland and coastal attractions was definitely a highlight on our Western Australia journey. The former includes the dramatic gorge carved by the Murchison River with famous locations like Nature’s Window

or the Kalbarri Skywalk.

The latter is about fascinating coastal cliffs with formations like Natural Bridge

or Island Rock. In terms of things to do there are the usual land activities (hiking etc) and anything you can think of around river and beach. You need at least two to three days to explore both the gorge and the coast.

In our case, we visited the Ross Graham and Hawks Lookout

en route on our arrival day. On day one we did the remaining inland (gorge) attractions (Kalbarri Skywalk etc.) including the The Loop Trail Hike (Class 4 Difficult, 9.5km/5.9mi, 2.5h, 200m/656ft elevation gain, one difficult spot at the water’s edge while navigating around a cliff).

Day two was dedicated to the Kalbarri coastal cliffs. Here we walked from the Natural Bridge to the Shellhouse Grandstand (7km/4.4mi return, 1.45h, 10om/328ft elevation gain, interesting but a bit monotonous). Afterwards, we made a side trip to the Hutt Lagoon (Pink Lake, not part of national park) to admire its pink waters from its algae (best when the sun is high).

Last, we headed to the Meanarra Hill Lookout for a panoramic vista of town and river (with walking trails).

4. Cape le Grand National Park, Esperance

This national park in Esperance’s east is known for its coastal scenery. It varies from rugged peaks and rocky shores to expansive ocean vistas. Lucky Bay

is widely considered as most beautiful beach here out of total five. Apparently even kangaroos sunbake on the beach as it is home to a colony of them (morning and evening, we did not see any of them midday). You can access all the locations between Le Grand Beach and Rossiter Bay by car. Alternatively,  if you are a strong walker, you can make use of Le Grand Coastal Trail that extends 20km/12mi between the before mentioned beaches (allow 8-9 hours, one way).

As my husband and I like to walk (but no hard-core hiking), we decided to do one section of Le Grand Coastal Trail. And this was about the one from Thistle Cove

to Lucky Bay, the easiest one (Class 3 Easy 5.6km/3.5mi return with some side walks at Lucky Bay, 1.5h, 130m/427ft elevation gain). It was a great way to approach the stunning Lucky Bay Beach! If you are into camping, there is a really nice site at this beach. And fishing, swimming, snorkeling and boating are possible here too. As to land activities, wildflower observation (we encountered orchids amongst others), abseiling and rock climbing are options too.

5. Torndirrup National Park, Albany

Torndirrup National Park is one of the most visited in Western Australia, and it is no surprise given its many natural wonders! It offers outstanding coastal views, rugged granite headlands and white sandy beaches. Must-do sights are The Gap

and Natural Bridge.

Lots of erosion have created a large gap in one rock face and a natural arch in another. And there are blowholes too, to be reached by a short walk from the carpark.

In case you are an outdoor enthusiast and avid walker, there is no way around the Bald Head Trail (Class 5 Difficult 12.5km/7.8mi return, allow 6-8 h, 650m/2,100ft elevation gain). It is a mesmerizing walking track with fantastic views of rugged coastline, white beaches and thundering ocean.

And it bursts into colors as wildflowers bloom in the season, including groves of banksia.

It is not necessary to go all the way as there are good views not too far from the carpark. My husband and I did only the first part to its (probably) highest point (5.4km/3.6mi, 1.5h, 307m/1,007ft).

Another recommended hiking trail is the one to the Peak Head (Class 5 Difficult 4.7km/2.9mi, 1.5h, 255m/837ft elevation gain).

It goes to the southernmost point in the national park and allows some stunning coastal views. While there are some short steep sections, we did not find it overly difficult. But once you reach the summit, it can be very windy.

When it comes to the question of my favorite among the Western Australia’s national parks, I cannot not choose just one. I endorse all of them strongly. The sole mistake you can make is not visiting as many as you can. The national parks are the standout feature when it comes to the best activities in Western Australia.

Looking back to my Western Australia posts

This blogpost about the best activities in Western Australia is my last of total four. The first one was about the 4-week itinerary we did in Australia’s biggest state, in style whenever possible. And this is – I can assure you – no easy undertaking! The second went into which hotels to choose for the most comfortable stay possible. I explicitly do not write “luxurious” because such lodging is a rarity outside of Perth. Finally, in my third post, I report on best restaurants in WA’s countryside. While my husband and I usually tend to opt for fine-dining spots, this is almost an impossibility in Western Australia, apart from Perth and the wine regions.

All in all, my husband and I had an utterly memorable time in Western Australia, filled with wonderful natural beauty all the way from Exmouth to Esperance. Lodging and restaurant wise, we were not exactly pampered but it was no frugal experience either.

Date of stay: September 2025

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Australians do not seem to be much into fine dining, this was the impression of my husband and me. That is how we felt when it came to Western Australia’s countryside at least. This was especially so between Perth and Exmouth. Here we did not encounter a single venue that resembled my idea of a gourmet restaurant. This issue in focus was better between Perth and Albany, but again worse when heading east from Albany. Be it as it may, we did make some finds in terms of good eateries on our Western Australia journey nevertheless. Some of them could even pass as fine-dining outlets. In the following I would like to share my personal best restaurants in Western Australia’s countryside with you. And I do this in the form of two best-of lists. One is about my top fine-dining spots here. The other showcases my preferred simple but good restaurants in the rural areas of this state.

1. My list of the best 5 (casual) fine-dining restaurants in Western Australia’s countryside

During our Western Australia trip from Exmouth to Esperance, we happened to encounter two of my top restaurants here in the wine region of Margaret River.

That is not surprising as good wine goes well together with (equally good) food, as is well known! Two others were in Albany, a livable country town on WA’s south coast. And one was in a northern suburb of Perth.

1.1. The Vasse Felix Restaurant, Margaret River, one of the best restaurants in Western Australia

(15 Points/2 Chef Hats Australian Good Food Guide 2026)

Vasse Felix, Margaret River’s founding winery, is not only a beautiful property

with fine wines but also features a gourmet dining spot. It is no exception here, this is true for many wineries in the area. As to Vasse Felix, my husband and I had booked a cellar tour and a wine tasting here before heading to the restaurant for a five-course tasting menu paired with Icon Wines. But you can also come here for lunch only. You read that right, wineries here do not offer a dinner service, which is a pity.

When entering the premises, I was astonished to encounter such stunning restaurant interiors. You find here a semi-open kitchen along with an impressive fireplace and a variety of lunch areas. And while it is stylish here, it is rather casual too.

The lunch was a big deal prepared with modern, terroir-driven food by chef Cameron Jones. He even was named Regional Chef of the Year 2025 by WA Good Food Guide (WAGFG). And I liked his boldly innovative array of flavors!

Plus, the service did its job well.

1.2. Miki’s Open Kitchen, Margaret River

(12 Points/1 Chef Hat Australian Good Food Guide 2026)

My husband and I did not expect such a cool spot as Miki’s Open Kitchen here in the heart of Margaret River. We felt pampered, when the chef – Mikihito Nagai – himself ushered us to our seats at the counter where we could witness the goings-on in the kitchen from close up. You are in here for some kind of a Japanese dining theater.

At Miki’s Open Kitchen you choose between three different tasting menus. Even a fourth for kids ten and under is available. There are two seatings per evening, so you have a two-hour slot for dining in this place.

What you get is nothing that you will find in Japan. This is because Miki does his own take on Japanese cuisine with local produce from farmers he relies on. When you opt for the whole shebang as we did, you experience a journey of up to 23 unique elements plus the additional Otsukuri Plate (sashimi). We got all this in 7 servings.

While I liked everything we got, my favourite was probably the tempura. It was fun watching the chef doing it at two stations. In addition, flambéing food was part of the program a well.

The staff was immaculate, explaining all the dishes in the necessary detail to us. Miki’s Open Kitchen was definitely one of the best restaurants we encountered in Western Australia’s countryside.

1.3. Le Rebelle, Mount Lawley

(lost Chef Hat in 2026, 13 Points/1 Chef Hat Australian Good Food Guide 2025)

Mount Lawley is just minutes from Perth CBD and not far from Swan Valley either. We came from the latter as we found the dining scene there not so exciting (winery restaurants are only open for lunch). Le Rebelle perfectly fits into this hip, vibrant suburb of Mount Lawley. When you head here, you sign up for hustle and bustle. The dual-level dining room is usually packed with a lively urban crowd.

And the staff is energetic and gracious. Modern French Bistro food is on offer at Le Rebelle, but the owners – Liam & Sarah Atkinson – and chef James Knubley interpret it in their own way with the one or other Aussie touch.

In terms of dishes, the House Baguette was fabulous as were the Crab Toasts, one of their signature dishes. And I absolutely fell in love with the house-churned sorbet they do here. Yet all the rest we had was good too, be it the Cured Snapper or the Rock Cod “Bouillabaisse”.

The one thing you have to know withe Le Rebelle, it is a small, casual place. The tables are placed close together and some chairs come without backrests, which is not for everyone.

1.4. Kirby’s, Albany

Kirby’s was the one and only fine-dining restaurant we had in WA’s countryside that was not on the casual side. It is no dining spot in the strict sense either. This is because you can dine here exclusively on the occasion of the Friday Night Experience. Then a “decadent” (wording on website) five-course seasonal menu, sourced locally whenever possible, is served. And this in an elegant setting where “diners dressed in their finest attire” (wording again) gather for this purpose.

Frederick (chef) and Jacqueline Kirby (host) are behind this once-a-week dinner. He, an Irish chef with experience in Michelin starred establishments and formerly being executive chef of Sandalfords’s Winery – ,

runs Kirby’s Atelier de Cuisine. Here you can book cooking classes, hold events/celebrations in the opulent upstairs dining room – where the Friday Night Experience takes place too – or use his services as private chef. He took this career step because this allowed the married couple to focus better on the needs of their autistic, non-verbal son.

As to the experience itself, it was nice to be in a refined, old-school setting for a change – uncommon for WA. The food was excellent, especially the Gnocchi with Confit Wagin Duck and the Beef Fillet with Café de Paris Butter. The one thing I was not fond of was the sorbet and the ice cream being too hard (no pacojet used).

Service and ambiance were great, and the chef, with whom we exchanged a few sentences, is a really kind person.

1.5. Sótão, Albany

This is a fairly new place in the nice Downtown Albany Historic District, opened in June 2024. They call themselves a food and wine bar offering modern, European influenced cuisine in a relaxed setting.

While there is no actual website, some information is found on their Instagram account. Sótão is located on Albany’s main street, down towards the water. You find here a contemporarily decorated spot with rather dark interiors.

Foodwise, they serve tapas-style dishes intended to be shared and are delivered when they are ready (3-4 dishes for two). And there is a focus on regional and seasonal produce. On the menu on our visit were interesting choices just as Salted Cod Croquettes with Saffron Aioli, Roast Sweet Potatoes with Lemon Tahini or Porchetta (fatty pork roast roulade) with Pear & Inca Berry. Yet also Grilled Futari, full Blooded Wagyu, Rump was available. And for dessert you could either have a Basque Cheesecake or a Barcelona Olive Oil Cake.

We thoroughly loved our experience at Sótão, served by friendly staff in a pleasant ambiance.

1.6. May be good: de’sendent, Margaret River (not dined here)

(14 Points/2 Chef Hats Australian Good Food Guide 2026)

First of all, I must say that we have not dined at de’sendent. This eatery on Margaret River’s main strip was closed on the day we wanted to go. Yet I heard good things about it and I found it a promising place. It is about the new spot of chef Evan Hayter, who was sucessful with his former one in the area called Arimia. De’sendent was recognised as “New Restaurant of the Year for 2025” by the Western Australian Good Food Guide (WAGFG). And this for its creative and fun high-end dining. They offer a six-course tasting menu from 6pm. Plus, there is an afternoon menu between 4pm and 6pm where you can order snacks. What a good idea if you do not want to go for the whole shebang!

2. 3 simple but good restaurants in Western Australia

Here I am happy to share with you two eateries with good food between Perth and Exmouth. And we found a third one in a wine region other than Margaret River. It is about the Swan Valley in Perth’s surroundings. While these three places do not make part of Western Australia’s best restaurants, they can be described as rather basic yet quality dining options.

2.1. Exhale Exmouth

There are no real fine-dining options in Exmouth, maybe with the exception of the restaurant at our hotel, Mantaray’s Bar & Brasserie. Yet there are quite a few cool places with modern, often healthy food, especially for breakfast and lunch. As to dinner, we only found one in town we found appealing. Thus we went there twice. It is about Exhale Exmouth, a casual eatery with a good vibe and kind staff.

They serve tapas-style food designed to share that arrives from the kitchen when it is ready. And it is predominantly Gluten free, in case you look out for such one.

As you are by the coast, sea food is an important part of the offer. Think of Oysters – from Coffin Bay – in three Ways, Goldband Snapper Ceviche Tostadas or Exmouth Wild Caught Bugs (lobster-like crustaceans). And I liked every single one of them! Yet there is more, also quite a few vegetarian choices just as Chargrilled Broccolini or Karaage Cauliflower. Of course there are items with meat and poultry too, think of Steak Tartare, Braised Lamb Ribs or Kangaroo Fillet. And also tempting desserts are available.

2.2. Upstairs, Kalbarri

You will find no fine-dining establishments in Kalbarri, if I am not mistaken. But I had identified two relaxed places with modern cuisine before our visit that sounded promising enough. Unfortunately, one – Little Leaf Kalbarri –

was closed due to renovation works – , so there was only one left. That was Upstairs Restaurant, featuring contemporary interiors, which however felt a bit chilly.

Plus there is a balcony with a view of  the nearby river. Staff was friendly and helpful, yet not very talkative.

In terms of food, modern Australian fare is on the menu. And the dishes incorporate elements from different cuisines. I name here various Asian countries – Satay Skewers, Green Thai NZ Chilli Mussels or Seafood Laksa – , Italy (2 sorts of Linguini) or Morocco (Moroccan Lamb). Just as in Exmouth we are still on the coast, so seafood is prominently featured. You get her Western Rock Lobster, both on its own or as part of a Seafood Platter. I dined here three times and everything I had – fish, mussels and seafood – was of good quality, well prepared and tasty. The desserts were my least favourite part. They were okay but not more.

2.3. Locale Mio, Guildford

I was delighted to come across such a good Italian restaurant in historic Guildford. While it is a beautiful town, it does not necessarily have an alluring dining scene. Locale Mio is a casual yet sophisticated place that buzzed with life on our dinner.

The menu here showcases authentic Italian cuisine, blending traditional flavors with modern touches. From what I read, the owners grew up with their backyard as their grocery store. Their Mama used to prepare amazing creations from this fresh produce. And this has become their motto for Locale Mio as well.

They serve here Tapas, Fried, Cold and Hot, alongside Home-Made Pasta with Fresh Salad and Pizza. The dough for the latter is rested for 48 hours, made with a certified blended flour. Plus, irresistible desserts complete the offer. My husband and I shared their house salad, Italian Bread and Butter and then had pasta and risotto. And everything was just great. A delicious Pannacotta with Limoncello and Strawberry Coulis, which we shared, made the end.

And the service made a good job too!

About my Western Australia posts

Two posts about our four-week journey in Western Australia have already appeared on my blog. And one more will follow in this context. As to the former, I informed on our itinerary and where to go for staying in style. This very post covered my personal best (fine-dining) restaurants in Western Australia. And the last will showcase my favorite things to do in Australia’s biggest state.

Date of stay: September 2025

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The Western Australia trip that brought my husband and me from Exmouth to Esperance – here is the itinerary – was a real challenge in terms of staying in style. The Aussies are not known for appreciating this kind of lodging. Instead, they prefer to travel in a camper. Therefore, the offer of good upscale accommodations outside of Perth is scarce. Nonetheless, I discovered some great luxury hotels in Western Australia, also in its countryside. As you can imagine, the state’s capital has its share of upscale lodging options, yet the one we stayed was a true find!

I let you know in the following about two best-of lists and one addition. The first ranking is about my top three upscale hotels in Western Australia. The second features three promising establishments. Regarding the latter, it is about places with potential, yet with considerable flaws too. And I also want to inform on a property that does not fit into either. Yet it is worthwhile mentioning all the same. It is a simple inn which offers comfort but no real luxury and is very well run.

1. My list of the best 3 luxury hotels in Western Australia

In the following it is about the three best accommodations we experienced on our four-week Western Australia journey. Not surprisingly, the top runner is to be found in the city of Perth. And the other two are in wine regions.

1.1. COMO The Treasury in Perth, the best hotel we stayed in Western Australia

While there is no shortage of luxury hotels in Western Australia’s capital, COMO The Treasury is something special. This 48-room lodging is located in Perth’s newly revitalised historic heart. It is housed in The Old Treasury Buildings dating from 1875 to 1958. Later on, they became the State Buildings, and this until the mid 1990s. Afterwards, they were vacant. That only changed in 2015 when life came back to this property with the opening of COMO The Treasury.

You find here not only luxuriously appointed guest rooms – we got an upgrade to the Studio Suite – ,

but also lots of other facilities. There is a number of restaurants, bars and other venues for business and leisure.

A signature spa with an indoor pool and a gym are also part of the offer. My husband and I were impressed, also by the high-level service and the superlative gastronomy. This is true for Restaurant Wildflower in particular,

but Restaurant Petition was also a good choice.

Thus there is no doubt that COMO The Treasury in Perth was the best hotel my husband and I experienced in Western Australia.

1.2. Grand Mercure Basildene Manor, Margaret River

This was the best hotel we lodged in Western Australia’s countryside. Grand Mercure Basildene Manor in Western Australia’s most famous wine region of Margaret River is a historic property with an old school vibe. It was built in 1912 as a private residence. Later on, it was converted into an upscale hotel, blending its original elegance with contemporary comforts. The hotel’s greatest asset is perhaps its manicured garden sprawling on 14 acres/56 hectares.

Yet also its 19 rooms with garden views and plenty of classic charm are persuasive (we had a King Bath Suite).

When staying here you can make use of a swimming pool, a tennis court and fabulous breakfasts in the conservatory. Also a complimentary afternoon tea is part of the package. And staff was professional, helpful and accommodating on our stay. Everyone was keen to help, without being intrusive. There is no restaurant on site, but plenty of options to eat out in its surroundings.

1.3. The Swan Valley Retreat, Swan Valley

With three guest rooms only and no communal area for having breakfast or so, The Swan Valley Retreat is not a hotel in the classic sense. Yet this adults-only retreat stands out due to features just as a luxurious interior design with an oversized bathroom,

a generous outdoor area

with a private outdoor spa or the access to an outdoor cedar barrel sauna (shared between the Merlot and Cabernet Rooms, the Wine Barrel Room has its own).

And you have great views of a pond with the resident farm animals roaming around.

In addition, you find a Day Spa on site as well as a Padel Tennis Court.

Included in the rate is a breakfast, a light version for the Merlot – where we stayed – and the Cabernet Room. But you can upgrade it to a gourmet breakfast if you wish (included in the Wine Barrel Room). The breakfast items are stored in the guest room’s fridge for you to prepare it yourself. While the property is a little paradise due to its facilities and its serene setting, the fact that you are here in the flight paths of the near Perth Airport lessens the overall impact.

2. 3 hotels/inns with potential in Western Australia

The three hotels/inns that I list here were a mixed bag to us. On the one hand, they have the potential to be really good. On the other hand, their performance was affected by significant weaknesses.

2.1. Mantarays Nigaloo Beach Resort, Exmouth

With its 68 guest rooms Mantarays Nigaloo Beach Resort was the biggest hotel we stayed on our Western Australia trip. It is a nice complex located a bit out of town in a pretty spot by the Sunrise Beach.

The accommodation offer is quite varied from several room types to 1- or 2-Bedroom Apartments to 1- or 2-Bedroom Ocean View Pavilions. As it was the only hotel of our journey directly on the beach, we longed for a room with sea view. Yet as the resort was already well booked – more than 6 months before arrival – , we had to take a 2-Bedroom Ocean View Pavilion.

Once entering the premises, my husband and I agreed it was a good decision. Our room’s setting was dreamlike with the best views of the beautiful coastline.

While the layout was generous, its amenities were alright. I found them rather elementar, you could make more of it. This is also true for the communal spaces, which were okay but not more. The indoor restaurant resembles a dining hall in my opinion. As to the staff, we were received a bit coldly upon arrival. When we dined here at Mantarays Dining & Bar on one occasion (food was good except the dessert, a peanut slice, which was way too rich and sweet), service was friendly yet a bit slow and not very professional.

Overall, we had a good time here, but it is no true luxury you get here. This was so despite the fact that the hotel has the capability to be a top Western Australia hotel.

 2.2. The Premier Mill, Katanning

I was quite astonished to find a superior hotel in what was in my opinion in the middle of nowhere. Katanning is a vital Wheatbelt town, a bit more than a three-hour drive south of Perth. The Premier Mill Hotel has a long and eventful history, from a 19th century roller mill to a power station to a wine cellar. After years of neglect and standing empty, the CEO of Dome Café Group bought it for just $1. And he transformed it into one of Western Australia’s finest luxury country hotel.

Much of the mill’s infrastructure has been kept,

with each room displaying a different element of the building’s history. Out of the 22 accommodations we had a Purifying Room featuring vaulted ceilings and original staircases, which was great. Not only did we like its heritage restoration but also the high-quality bed and linen along with the spacious bathroom with Aesop products. The not so good part was the non-existent closet (only a few hooks for cloths), the insufficient lighting (much too dark) and the A/C that did not work properly.

We did not have dinner at the Dome Café, which you find here of course, but had breakfast, which was okay. For dinner, we went to the Cordial Bar in the basement. Here we enjoyed a selection of delightful tapas and a fine local wine.

As to service, it was good from start to finish – we had only one night here.

2.3. Majuba Country Lodge, Albany

At Majuba Country Lodge we experienced the biggest letdown of our WA trip in terms of staying in style. All the prerequisites for an enjoyable stay were met. Think of a beautiful stylish property,

splendid views of roaming horses and kangaroos around a pond against the backdrop of Oyster Harbor

and a tastefully decorated room with luxurious amenities.

But all this could not make up for what we encountered here. Upon arrival a cute albeit badly behaved dog awaited us and immediately jumped on my husband. The owner, coming from South Africa, remained unfazed although my husband’s trousers were ruined (no excuse). And the dog was a nuisance throughout our stay (trying to get in our room ecetera).

While we could have lived with an annoying dog, I could not accept that our room (Serengeti, the nicer of two) was not clean (partially dirty floor and closet) and that the promise of a continental breakfast was not fulfilled. All we got was a platter with prosciutto, cheese and olives, 4 yoghurts, granola and two packaged pastries. And the offerings were not replenished on our three-day stay. My husband addressed the issue with the owner, but he did not receive our complaint well (“I can bring you some slices of bread”). He told him not to bother, and so we had breakfast in town. Plus, we bought some crackers to accompany the cold cuts, which we had for lunch. Majuba Country Lodge has features that could make it exceptional, but has sadly not realized its potential to be one of Western Australia’s best hotels!

3. A simple yet quality inn in Kalbarri

To end my reporting on our Western Australia’s lodgings I want to mention one that I keep well in my memory. While it was not a luxury place, it was comfortable enough and offered lots of value for money. And I am quite sure, you will not find a better accommodation in the area. It is is about the Kalbarri region, a must for every nature lover traveling WA. It concerns the Gecko Lodge in the town of Kalbarri, a bit more than a 6-hour drive north of Perth.

The inn, a mix between a traditional hotel and a bed and breakfast, is located in a quiet residential neighbourhood.

You are here only minutes away from the beach and the town center. Five rooms are available, one of those is a Penthouse Suite, the other are in some sort of bungalow row houses. While some have extra features as a kitchenette or separate shower and tub, others did not and are a bit smaller. As my husband and I wanted separated beds, we opted for the one and only King Deluxe Double Suite, which was one of the least sizeable. Do not expect luxury furnishings yet good comfort was provided.

While the inn is not new or recently renovated, it is well kept. In terms of facilities, there is a pool, a barbecue area and a sitting room complete with port wine, chocolates, DVDs and books. Sha, the owner/manager is very well organised and offers a delicious breakfast (great fruit bowl) and an afternoon tea with great cake.

She always ensures that her guests feel at ease, and despite the rooms not being serviced every day, she goes the extra mile to fulfils their needs.

Looking back & forward to my Western Australia reporting

My last post was about a 4-week Western Australia itinerary – in style whenever possible. The ones who know the area are certainly aware of the fact how difficult this is! But I tried my best looking out for high-quality lodging and restaurants where they are rare. After informing where to go for staying in style in Australia’s biggest state in this very blogpost, my next covers dining-spots to choose for a nice dinner. The end will make a list of my favorite WA activities.

Date of stay: September 2025

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After long thinking on where the second Australia trip of my husband and me should go, we chose Western Australia. On our first Oceania exploration in 2018, we traveled from Adelaide to Sidney in 15 days and both New Zealand islands in another 15, here are my posts. While we enjoyed it very much, it was quite stressful. This time we longed for a more relaxed journey, meaning staying longer in one place. And we wanted to experience a less visited part of Australia. In terms of destination, our first choice was the north. As it is partly quite difficult to explore by car, my husband voted for the east coast. But I found it too beach-focused. So we agreed on Western Australia, and this to an Exmouth to Esperance itinerary – in style whenever possible.

Travel in style in Australia

Always when traveling, my husband and I long for luxury. We like to stay at nice hotels – here are my WA highlights – and dine at fine restaurants – here are my WA highlights – , as long as they offer value for money. But this is not easy at all in Australia! No offence, Aussies, but travel in style is not necessarily your thing! Australian people love doing their trips in a caravan. Thus they have nice campgrounds but no such hotels.

And they like grilling, so no dining-out. Therefore, there are not many great dining spots around, at least in the countryside.

Regardless of this challenging situation, I managed somehow to put together a four-week Western Australia itinerary in style. You find it in the form of my Google Map with the best hotels, restaurants and activities between Exmouth and Esperance.

My Google Map of a 4-week Western Australia itinerary in style

Details on Exmouth to Esperance Western Australia itinerary 

As we flew into Perth

from Singapore, we started with an urban getaway here, the one and only real one on this trip. After four nights here, we flew to Exmouth, part of the Coral Coast, where we rented a car. After exploring the Cape Range National Park/Nigaloo Reef

we drove further south to Denham. Here the Francois Perron National Park was on our agenda.

Next was Kalbarri where we visited the Kalbarri Nation Park.

We left the Coral Coast behind us and continued to the Turquoise Coast, where we made a stop in Jurien Bay,

two hours north of Perth.

As we already did Perth at the beginning of our journey, we bypassed the city and got via the Wheatbelt

to Katanning,

an agricultural hub. From here we drove on to the easternmost point of our Western Australia itinerary, Esperance on the state’s south coast. Here the Cape Le Grand National Park drew us.

Next was Albany

with another national park, Torndirrup.

Margaret River with its wine region

was the penultimate stop. And before flying out from Perth again, we stayed in the nearby Swan Valley wine region.

How was it getting around by car on our Western Australia trip?

As you can guess from the above Western Australia itinerary, it was quite a long road trip. In total, we made 5,600 km/3,480 mi in just under four weeks. And we did this on paved roads only. However, they were a little bumpy in places, rather narrow and had soft shoulders only in 70 percent of all cases. While there was not much traffic most of times, the described road conditions made it difficult to drive and required a great deal of concentration. Every time a car comes towards you, you have to exercise particular caution. The same is true when you have to overtake a vehicle.

And not to forget the existence of road trains. It is defined on every stretch of road how long they are allowed to be. In our case, the maximum was 47 m/154 ft. If you happen to meet such a giant truck, extreme caution is required. And this not only when you overtake, but also when the road train is on the opposite lane. It may be that you need to make room for it. 

In case you are wondering, the speed limit was 110 km/h / 68 mph. Sometimes, when the roads were curvy, it was 90 km/h / 60 mph. And we had quite a large 4WD (an upgrade),

originally we had booked an AWD. But no worries, you need neither of them here. While our rental car fitted well on the Coral Coast (north of Perth), it was way too big south of Perth, where smaller cars are more common and appropriate.

In what season did we do this Western Australia itinerary?

We traveled the state of Western Australia from end of August to end of September, starting in the north (Exmouth/Nigaloo Reef), then heading south. While this timing is ideal for the Nigaloo part, this is a bit less so for Perth and further south (we were a bit too early). The latter is especially so in case you are interested in activities around sun, sea and sand. However, if you are a nature lover or hiker, then September is usually ideal. It is supposed to be the perfect time for incredible wildflowers

and pleasant walking but also for wine tasting, should this be your thing.

As to the weather in our case, it was great on the Coral Coast but not so good around Perth and in its south. From what we heard, the September here was wetter than usual. Having said that, we almost never encountered days filled with rain only. It was rather an on-off thing with alternating half hour shifts of sun and rain. And wind played a role as well.

Generally speaking for a Western Australia itinerary, March to October is ideal for Exmouth. Go in April to July for whale/shark watching and pleasant weather. Visit in September and October for wildflowers and fewer crowds. As to Perth and further south, aim for April and May or October for the sweet spot of great weather. Yet March, September and November are also good for warm, sunny days, fewer crowds and wine events.

Which lodging choices did we make on our Western Australia trip?

In total, my husband and I had 26 lodging nights – here are my WA highlights – on our Western Australia trip. We stayed at a number of hotels, some bed-and-breakfasts and two rental properties. As to the latter, we almost never opt for an apartment or a house when vacationing. We only go for this option if there are no suitable hotels or inns around, precisely if they are not comfortable enough or not well-rated. And this was true in our Western Australia trip in two places. First, we did not succeed on the Turquoise Coast, around Jurien Bay and Cervantes,

two hours by car north of Perth. Second, Esperance

on Western Australia’s South West coast was a tough nut to crack in this aspect too. Thus, we decided to rent in these two spots: Jurien Bay and Esperance.

What is next regarding more Western Australia posts?

Often when doing one of these “My Google Maps”, I add details about all the places we went in the correspondent post. This time, I limit myself to provide a rough route of our Western Australia itinerary only, see earlier in this blogpost. When it comes to specifics such as which lodgings and dining we chose and what activities we did, please refer to the mentioned map. I included all of them along with a short description and a number of pictures. In terms of more reporting on this journey, I will write three more posts with best-of lists. This will be about the top hotels we stayed, the finest restaurant we dined and our favorite activities on our Western Australia trip.

Date of stay: September 2025

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This last post of my Taiwan mini-series (planning, one-week and two-week itinerary, favorite luxury hotels) goes into my fine-dining restaurant highlights. On a 17-day trip through beautiful Taiwan, my husband and I tried to dine at good gourmet dining spots whenever possible. While it was no problem finding such places in the island’s big cities, this was a bit different in the countryside. Yet we managed to get more than decent dinners in Taiwan in most cases. As a matter of fact, we only had one meal that we would have preferred to do without. But anyway, that is not the topic here. It is about my three favorite fine-dining restaurants in Taiwan.

Before jumping on the places in question, let us have a short look at foodie restaurants in Taiwan in general.

(Michelin) fine-dining restaurant scene in Taiwan

What Michelin and The World’s 50 Best Restaurants think

Taiwan is continuously making an impact on Asia’s fine-dining scene. Since the inaugural Michelin Guide Taipei in 2018, three more cities were added, Kaohsiung, Tainan and Taichung. In the Michelin’s last Taiwan edition (August 2023), 341 restaurants were included. 3 got three stars (Le Palais Taipei, Taïrroir Taipei and JL Studio Taichung), 6 two stars (Molino de Urdániz, Mudan, Logy, L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon and RAW, all in Taipei, and Liberté in Kaohsiung) and 34 one star. This is quite an impressive performance record, I think!

Also The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list covers Taiwan. 50Best Discovery shows 19 results when doing a search. 13 are in Taipei, 2 in Taichung and 3 in Kaoshiung. All three Michelin three-star establishments are included.

Our choice of fine-dining restaurants in Taiwan

As to our restaurant selection in Taiwan, it was no easy thing to do. First of all, the hottest tables are gone the minute they are open for online reservation (usually made via “inline”). And many among those are also quite expensive. Plus, some only accept bookings by phone. Then, it is sometimes difficult to find English information about certain places online. Not all have websites in English. And if they have, they make it not easy for you to find out where to click for the English version. Furthermore, restaurants are often very specific when it comes to making a reservation. They ask for several things, and you have to pay an amount or the whole meal in advance.

Despite all the difficulties we faced in the reservation process, we managed to find some really good spots. When doing so, we focused on more affordable places, i.e. such ones not asking for much more than 4,000 TWA (111 SFR/US$) for the tasting menu. After all, we had 17 nights to eat out. Except in one case – where we opted for the Signature Wagyu Menu with a Sirloin steak as main course – , we succeeded.

My top 3 fine-dining restaurants in Taiwan

In contrast to my luxury hotel highlights (my post) in Taiwan that I did not list in descending order, I made a ranking for my favorite fine-dining restaurants on this island. After lots of thinking, I have chosen my best thee among 13 places. While my number one was clear from the beginning, number two and three were not so easy to determine. Here is my classification of my personal fine-dining restaurant highlights in Taiwan. Two of them are Michelin listed, from which one even holds a Michelin star. The third is a second restaurant from a three-star Michelin chef on the island.

In this context, I have to add that we dined at one more one-star Michelin spot. And this was the one I have elected as my actual number two of best restaurant experiences in Taiwan. It is about Restaurant Holt in Taipei whose chef (Jeffery Downs) had left for Canada even before our visit.

While they were still serving his creations on our visit, we were told that there would be a rebranding process. And I have just noticed that their website is no longer available. So, I had to rearrange my ranking with a new number two and three. But first to my undisputed number one.

1. Restaurant Marc L³ Kaohsiung

About

According to 50Best Discovery, “reservations here are like gold dust”. I well noticed that when checking out the booking process at Marc L³. So, I bookmarked the exact time when to do the reservation online. And I was successful. Then we were given a short time window to make the full payment of the meal. But instead with credit card, they asked for a bank transfer. This was a no-go option for us (short payment deadline and high fees). Finally, the matter was settled when we involved our hotel concierge (Silks Club, many thanks!). You see, scoring a reservation at one of the hottest tables in Taiwan is no walk in the park!

After this overlong elaboration how to reserve one of the hottest tables in south Taiwan – sorry for this – , now to the place itself. Chef Marc Liao has been in fine dining for twenty years, also abroad for ten something years. In 2019, the Taipei born chef settled town in Kaohsiung. Here he joined Liberté, a two-star Michelin restaurant, before opening his own place in 2021. At Marc L³ – the three L’s stand for Live x Liberal x Limitless – , he serves contemporary cuisine in a casual setting. Marc L³ is listed at Michelin and at 50Best Discovery (The World’s 50 Best Restaurants).

What to expect?

Marc L³ is set in a quiet street in Kaohsiung’s Qianjin District. The spot is small, guests are seated either at the counter on the ground level (nine seats) or upstairs where you find three more tables. There is a cool vibe in here. This shows not only in the decor but also in the staff’s attitude. Marc Liao and three chefs (all women) were at work on our evening and one maître d`along with two servers.

Food wise, you are in for excellent modern European cuisine that is served without chichi. He does this by combining diverse cooking styles and techniques, which results in truly memorable creations. On offer is a sole eight-course menu. It is reasonably priced at 3,600 TWA (100 SFR/US$). According to the chef’s Instagram feed, he plans to open a new chapter where he aims at upleveling. This in order to get closer to the restaurant experience that he carries in his heart. Let us see what he has in mind. I already found that he brilliantly performed on our evening.

How was it dining at Marc L³, my favorite among visited fine-dining restaurants in Taiwan?

Upon arrival, two employees stood ready in front of the chic remodeled townhouse to greet us by name.

No wonder, we were the only Westerners dining here at this night. Once inside, the chef welcomed us too and chatted with us for quite some time. Besides being an outstanding chef – see below – , Marc Liao is a really nice person too! We were seated at the counter – we had not expected this – and were able to watch what was going on in the kitchen – and that was informative and entertaining at the same time!

In terms of food, dining at Marc L³ was one hell of an experience! We were served a delightfully balanced series of inventive dishes (12 of them) that surprised at every bite. The dinner included the chef’s playful take on a hotdog, filled with fish and squid. It came with two sauces, one ginger-onion, the other garlic-béchamel. And there was a black exterior that consisted of chicken broth with black truffle and squid ink.

The meat dish was A5 Wagyu shoulder paired with Anna potatoes and kohlrabi. Three sweet dishes put the final point, a rice pudding with chocolate crunch, the chef’s version of an apple pie and a donut with custard, lime and pistachio. We loved every minute of our dinner at Marc L³. It was a a big deal, both from the culinary aspect and the pleasantly relaxed ambiance we encountered here!

2. Restaurant Sho Kaohsiung, my second favorite of 13 fine-dining restaurants visited in Taiwan

About

Sho is an offshoot of the well-known Restaurant Den in Tokyo. This two-star Michelin spot under the lead of Zaiyu Hasegawa has reinvented kaiseki, an elaborate celebration meal. Chef Fujimoto Shoichi from Kyushu/Japan, who had worked five years in Tokyo, was sent to Kaohsiung in 2020. This in order to spread Den’s concept, adapted to its surroundings. And he does this in the fashionable Qianjin District. The chef, who started his professional career in a car repair shop, is now in charge at a state-of-the-art open kitchen. Here, surrounded by lots of staff, he works his magic. While the ambiance at Sho is a bit clinical (lots of white), it is far from being stiff. The dining spot has a Michelin star and is listed at 50Best Discovery (The World’s 50 Best Restaurants).

What to expect at Sho Kaohsiung?

You are in at Sho for a typical Japanese meal. That already shows from the spot’s exteriors. It is all about minimalism, there is lots of wood and you find here common Japanese plantings.

This finds a continuation in the restaurant interiors. The eyes are immediately drawn to a huge counter where about 14 guests can seat. In addition, there are two private rooms for about 6 to 8 each guests each. Everything is kept in white and light colored wood. The staff is also in white, complete with shirt, jacket and cap. Only the chef wears a black tie.

On offer is a sole tasting menu costing 3,500 TWA (96 SFR/US$) and comprised of ten courses. This is the case when you had opted for the so-called rice upgrade on the booking. This is about one of the signature dishes that the chef brought with him from Restaurant Den in Tokyo. It is kamameshi, a traditional rice dish cooked in an iron pot called kama. We got it once with Wagyu

and the other time with scallop.

At the end of the meal, the guests got some of it formed into balls as goodie to eat it as snack the following day. The other dish “imported” from Japan is a special kind of salad, which is made of ten different kinds of vegetable in various preparations. As to the rest of the menu, Fujimoto Shoichi combines traditional recipes with innovative touches.

How was it?

I mentioned it, the dining room is minimalist. Friendly staff welcomed us and led us to our seats at the counter. Here already a printed menu awaited us. At the other side of the counter, there was order and calm. It did not make the impression of an upcoming meal. Once started, it became busier, yet everything was done in quietude and earnest. At first, only the sous chef was in charge, then the chef appeared and took over some parts of the happenings. In any case, it was fascinating to observe.

Staff was cordial and attentive throughout the evening. They also explained the dishes to us. When it was time for the rice upgrade, the sous chef showed the ingredients and the pot around. After dinner, the chef came to all the guests to hand over the above mentioned goodie and to exchange some words. It truly was a pleasant affair!

The food was excellent, a series of small, well-rounded dishes, all of which were convincing. And it was indeed a modernized version of a typical kaiseki meal. It was a somewhat “stripped down version” of it, without the garnishes being for style. The first three starters were all with seafood (squid, oyster, shrimp), then was sashimi, followed by a meat course, duck with onion, nest fern and black tea. Next were the mentioned salad,

tile fish, the rice dishes I already went into and two desserts. The first was a mousse with perilla, plum and red guave. The second was a monaka. This sweet is made of azuki bean paste sandwiched between two wafers made from mochi. Here it came in combination with pineapple and caramel, delicious!

2. Restaurant KEN CAN by Ken Chan Sun Moon Lake

About

Restaurant KEN CAN by Ken Chan is the chef’s second restaurant on the island, and it is in the Sun Moon Lake area. It was opened in 2019, at Hotel Fleur de Chine.

Ken Chan was the first and only chef awarded three Michelin stars in Taiwan, when the guide was first published in 2018. This was at Restaurant Le Palais at Hotel Palais de Chine in Taipei, and he still holds them.

Ken Chan made an extraordinary career. The Hong Kong born chef started with pushing a dim sum trolley around a restaurant from which guests did make their choice. And he did this after dropping out of school when he was twelve. At the age of 23, he began a new chapter in Taiwan. Here he climbed the career ladder, until he became head chef at a five-star hotel. In 2010, he got the position as executive chef at Restaurant Le Palais, which he still holds, now at the age of 58.

It still seems to be Ken Chan’s goal to reinvent himself. On offer at his restaurant is Cantonese cuisine as well as Sichuan, Fuzhou and Taiwanese ones. Signature dishes are Cantonese-style roast duck, Peking duck and gourd stuffed with shrimp and crabmeat. Dim sum also makes part of the menu. And braised fish maw, abalone with goose foot or bird’s nest soup are favorite – yet expensive – choices too. You get all this in opulent dining-rooms with French-meets-Oriental decor. Be advised that the dress code at Le Palais is strictly formal.

What to expect?

Dining at KEN CAN by Ken Chan at Hotel Fleur de Chine at the lakeshore of Sun Moon Lake is probably not comparable to the one at the three-star Michelin parent restaurant in Taipei – I have not been there. In the Sun Moon Lake area, all is simpler. There is one dining-room, which is not big. It is in a traditional, elegant style yet is no formal affair. A “smart casual” attire is sufficient.

The menus are less expensive than in Taipei. You can choose one of three options that cost either 2,980, 3,980 or 5,980 TWA (83, 110 or 166 SFR/US$). And of course, Cantonese cuisine is on offer as in Taipei.

How was it at KEN CAN by Ken Chan?

On our arrival at the hotel reception, we were escorted to the premises, passing two other (casual) restaurants on the way. Only a few tables were occupied at the flagship spot (on a Friday evening end of March). The atmosphere was quiet, even somewhat relaxed. We had been contacted beforehand in order to enquire what menu we wanted (see above). And we had opted for the middle one. So, the printed menu was already laid out on the table. After some snacks, it was up to fish maw soup. It is a delicacy in China. In case you wonder about it, it is the inflatable swim bladder that most fish use to ascend and descend in water. It was mild in taste otherwise unremarkable – probably something for connoisseurs.

It went on with dishes that are somewhat unfamiliar to Westerners. While the lobster was something we knew and appreciated well, this was not the case as to the sauce. It was a mapo tofu one, a famous Sichuan staple where tofu pieces are braised in a rich, spicy sauce. Next was abalone, which we got to know a few years ago in Hong Kong. It was served on Low Mein (tossed noodles). And it was tender and tasty. I very much liked the next course, spinach, lettuce and tofu skin. The latter is the thin layer that forms at the top when you simmer fresh soy milk.

All in all, it was an interesting and authentic journey through Cantonese cuisine, an experience you cannot not make very often in Western Europe. Service was friendly, helpful and informative, we felt well at ease throughout the evening.

Looking back on my Taiwan journey

While this post focused on my three personal fine-dining highlights in Taiwan, you find on my blog some remarks about all the restaurants my husband and I dined on our 17-day journey. For this purpose, go for Taipei, Taroko and Sun Moon Lake to my one-week itinerary. As for Kenting, Kaohsiung and Beitou-Taipei refer to my two-week travel plan. Overall, I can assure you that – when traveling for food – , you get your money’s worth in Taiwan. While it is not always elaborate gourmet food when leaving the big cities, it was always good wherever we went.

Besides this blogpost about recommended fine dining in Taiwan and the two mentioned itineraries, I also went into two other topics concerning this island. My very first post went into some considerations to make when planning a luxury trip to this country. And the post before the current one was about my favorite three luxury hotels here.

Date of stay: April 2024

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After elaborating on general aspects of a trip in style to Taiwan – planning, one-week and two-week itinerary – , it is about the best luxury hotels on this island. On a recent Taiwan journey across the country, my husband and I stayed at six of the best upscale accommodations. While we liked all of them, they did not equally excel in all areas. So, it was possible to choose my personal highlights among them. Find in the following all you have to know about my three lodging favorites in Taiwan. Two are city hotels (Taipei and Kaohsiung), one is in the countryside (Sun Moon Lake, center).

Before delving into the best luxury hotels in Taiwan, some general facts in the context of booking (luxury) hotels on this island.

What to know about booking (luxury) hotels in Taiwan

Whereas there are lots of luxury hotels in the big cities on Taiwan’s west side, this is not so when leaving this part of the island. As the majority of travelers to Taiwan go to the same few locations when doing so – Taroko Gorge, Sun Moon Lake, Alishan – , you find high-end lodging in these spots too. Said that, Alishan makes an exception here. From what I learn, the accommodations here are neither ubiquitous (they sell out fast) nor can they be considered as good (old and overpriced). As to the other places mentioned, there is a choice of upscale hotels, however not a wide one.

When it comes to rates, I found that the city hotels on the island’s west side (Taipei and Kaohsiung) usually offer good value for money. I have read that people from Japan, Hong Kong or Singapore come here “to live it up” at Taipei hotels, which they often could not afford in their own countries. I personally found our Taipei accommodation (Mandarin Oriental) reasonably priced, and this much in contrast to most of their branches in Europe! And our hotel in Kaoshiung (Silks Club) even was a bargain.

However, as to luxury hotels outside of cities, they cost more. We paid quite some rates, both in the Taroko Gorge (Silks Place) and Sun Moon Lake (The Lalu). But as mentioned, almost every traveler to Taiwan comes here, and there is not much competition.

I start with two of the best luxury hotels in Taipei and Kaohsiung before continuing with my personal lodging highlight in the Sun Moon Lake area.

1. Hotel Mandarin Oriental Taipei, one of the best luxury hotels in Taiwan

Mandarin Oriental is for sure one of the best luxury hotels in Taipei if not in the entire country of Taiwan. And it also is one of the newer ones (opened in 2014). In contrast to the buildings of its competitors which are often made of concrete, glass and steel, it is somewhat unique. It is reminiscent of Medieval European architecture, albeit it definitely is a mix of different styles from several countries. You find here for example a dome like in Florence or fountains just as in Versailles. Without doubt, is an impressive property designed to impress.

Location

Mandarin Oriental Taipei is located on Dunhua North Road, Taipei’s main boulevard, in the Songshan District. While being in downtown Taipei in one of several business districts in town (financial industry), its situation comes handy enough yet is not exceptionally good. It might be favorable for domestic travelers as it is near the Songshan Airport (5 minutes by car), for others – especially leisure travelers – it is not so. This because it is a bit away from the main tourist sights. Said that, it is close to the next MRT (7 minutes by foot), which is a great plus. In addition, the neighborhood seems to be in transition. You find here new buildings but also lots of such ones soon to be demolished.

Ambiance/Staff

The hotel exudes an upscale ambiance. This is true not only for the elegant entry hall but also THE ARCADE, the adjoining shopping complex. While the latter appeared a bit without life on our visits, it is remarkable with its glamorous shops along marble floors and the striking Italian-like courtyard plaza. For Western Europeans, the whole property might seem a bit too much in terms of opulence and eclecticism, yet it definitely is a sight to behold.

The staff is as excellent as you would expect at a hotel of this caliber. The standard of service never fails to impress, be it at the reception, at the M.O. Bar or at Café Un Deux Trois where they serve breakfast. Each and every staff member we got in touch with had a good command of English. And that was a rarity on our Taiwan trip. Staying at Mandarin Oriental came closest to a typical western hotel experience. All the other accommodations we lodged at in this country had more Taiwanese touches.

Rooms/Pricing

Out of the 330 rooms in total, you can choose among an array of categories. As to rooms, it starts with the Deluxe Room (55 sqm), then goes over the Mandarin Room (70 sqm) to the Mandarin Premier Room (70 sqm). Then, there is a number of suites. All accommodations are also available as Club versions, i.e. with access to The Oriental Lounge. As you may have noticed, all the rooms are oversized.

My husband and I opted for the Mandarin Premier Room. What it differentiates it from the Mandarin Room is the fact that it has two rooms. You find onsite a private master bedroom plus a living area.

The bathroom is generous, clad in marble and with a bathtub as well as a large walk-in shower.

The toilet (a Japanese version) is separated from it. The space is classically furnished with plush carpets and modern touches. And you have the benefit of a city view. The rate was 411 SFR/US$ for two per day with full breakfast (in March 2024).

We loved our Mandarin Premier Room. The one thing that I did not like was the lack of storage room. But this seems to be a general problem at hotels inTaiwan. Almost all the properties we stayed at made the impression of being designed for a short stay only. In addition, we often also encountered – at Mandarin Oriental Taipei too – “fake” furnitures where you could not store anything (?).

Restaurants at Mandarin Oriental Taipei

You find here six restaurants. Ya Ge is their flagship one serving Chinese food in an elegant ambiance and holding a Michelin star. Plus, there is Bencotto for contemporary Italian cuisine in a relaxed setting and Café Un Deux Trois where you get international cuisine in a casual atmosphere. For light meals, you can choose among The Jade Lounge (afternoon tea), M.O. Bar (drinks and snacks)

and The Mandarin Cake Shop (cakes and patisserie).

I have to admit that we only had breakfast at Café Un Deux Trois, which was fabulous. The space is huge, lively, and tables are packed close together. Yet staff tends to seat Westerners at quiet spots, which was appreciated by us.

We had seriously thought about booking a table at their Chinese place Ya Ge. It gets good reviews and is adequately priced. Ultimately, we opted to explore the dining scene outside the hotel to get a feel for “real” Taiwanese food culture.

Other facilities

Of course, Mandarin Oriental Taipei leaves nothing to be desired when it comes to spa and wellness! It boasts one of the most luxurious spas in town (3,500 sqm). There are heated water experiences, 12 treatment rooms, a yoga studio, a spa boutique, relaxation facilities and a 20-m/66 ft outdoor swimming pool.

Overall Mandarin Oriental Taipei as one of the best luxury accommodations in Taiwan

Mandarin Oriental Taipei is possibly the best luxury hotel in Taipei or even in Taiwan. Together with the adjoining shopping complex THE ARCADE it is a large-scale undertaking. Its opulent and eclectic Medieval European architecture is impressive yet might be a bit too much for Western Europeans. Everything at this glamorous hotel is of the highest standard. You almost cannot find fault with it. And the rates are affordable compared to many other MO branches in Europe. The only thing that I find slightly subpar is its location. It might be favorable for local business but not so for leisure travelers. Yet the proximity of the MRT somewhat compensates for this disadvantage.

2. Hotel Silks Club Kaohsiung

Hotel Silks Club in Kaohsiung, Taiwan’s most southern big city, was a real find! I had long thought about where to stay on the island’s south-western coast. Originally, I had been inclined to opt for Tainan, as it is probably the best city to experience Taiwanese history and culture. But none of its upscale hotels could fully persuade me. So, we settled for the nearby more cosmopolitan city of Kaohsiung.

And we did not regret it! We even considered our choice of accommodation as one of the best luxury hotels in Taiwan! Plus, we had three nights here, so we could use one of it for a day trip to Tainan.

Location

Silks Club sits in the heart of the Asia New Bay Area waterfront redevelopment, a bit south of the city center. While the hotel is not so centrally located as I had wished for, its situation can still be considered as good. It is within walking distance of two MRT stations and a Circular Light Rail station. You reach the Kaohsiung Railway Station and the Kaohsiung International Airport in about a 20-minute drive. To get to the Taiwan High Speed Rail Station allow more time, maybe 25 to 30 minutes by car (traffic can be heavy).

Having uttered some criticism about Silks Club’s location, they are in good company. Its two main competitors, InterContinental and TAI Urban Resort are nearby. And great restaurants are within easy reach as well as shopping opportunities (Dream Mall, Taiwan’s largest department store).

Ambiance/Staff at Silks Club Kaohsiung

Silks Club, opened in 2017, is part of the The Silks Hotel Group. This is the largest and most profitable hotel group listed on the Taiwan Stock Exchange. It operates the Regent Taipei and five other hotel brands, among them Silks Club and Silks Place. While the latter is about cultural luxury lifestyle hotels, the former is into art, design and boutique. This focus already shows when entering the premises of Silks Club Kaohsiung. You are immediately captured by the “Dancing Particles” (watch video when they are dancing: E378E91F-C384-436E-B2C4-36C67895026E_2_0_a ART+COM Studios) in the lobby.

The motion art sculpture features 168 metal spheres that float and dance above a pole of water, amazing! But there is more, works of over 200 artists are showcased throughout the hotel.

Apart from all the art that appears everywhere, the hotel’s interior design is remarkable too. It is a masterpiece in minimalistic magnificence. I would go so far as to say that is the most beautiful sleek, urban hotel I have seen lately. More to some features in the sections about rooms and restaurants.

As to the staff, I can only say respectively write positive things about it. That starts with the concierge/bell desk – where we chatted a few times to a nice employee –  and goes over to the staff at the restaurants as well as the hotel maintenance workers we were in touch. All were trained in the way of generous spirit. We felt well looked after and did not have to worry about a thing.

Rooms/Pricing

Silks Club Kaohsiung extends over 29 floors and features 147 guest rooms. There are only 6 to 10 units on each floor, and 3 elevators are at your disposal. As to room categories, the offer ranges from Deluxe King/Twin (59 sqm) to Premier King/Twin (66 sqm), Studio Deluxe King (63 sqm), Junior Suite King (80 sqm) and several suites.

My husband and I had chosen the most upscale room (not suite) with a twin bed. And that was a Premier Twin. What a great accommodation that was! We were on the 25th floor with wonderful city views. Not only it was spacious, but also outfitted with state-of-the-art comforts. These included special measures towards sound- and lightproofing, North American oak flooring and premium Italian handmade mattresses. It was kept in neutral hues with cool blue toned accents.

The bathroom was huge and made of marble. Separated from the oversized sink area there was a bath tub with view plus a shower. And yet in another (separated) part the toilet.

And imagine, all this came for the rate of 265 SFR/US$ for two per day including a full breakfast (April 2024)! The only thing that was suboptimal in our room was the slightly insufficient air-condition in the bathroom. It cooled down the adjacent walk-in closet rather than the sink area.

Restaurants

In terms of restaurants there is the fine-dining space of Ukai-tei with the adjoining Dassai Bar as well as the In Jade Lounge and Bar.

The latter is destined for breakfast, afternoon tea as well as drinks and snacks in the evening. The former offers a lunch and a dinner service. It is about the first overseas restaurant of the Japanese brand Ukai-tei. In Kaohsiung, you can choose among three dining-rooms, designed by interior designer Hashimoto Yukio: Ukai-tei Teppanyaki,

Ukai Kaiseki and Grill Ukai Kaohsiung. They are connected by a stunning spiral staircase. It came per ship in one piece and was placed into the construction before building the restaurant around it.

Breakfast at the In Jade Lounge was lovely. We could make our choice out of five set menus served on a tray.

In addition, we could help ourselves from a buffet. As to dinner, my husband and I went to Ukai-tei Teppanyaki where we had our own chef who prepared a fabulous Ukai Signature Wagyu Menu before our eyes.

Out of the three Japanese Wagyu main courses, we decided on the middle of three options (Sirloin for 5800 TWD / 161 SFR/US$; Rump/Tenderloin would have lost 4,800/6,500 TWD / 133/181 SFR/US$). That made it the most expensive meal of our Taiwan journey!

Other facilities

The hotel boasts a Valmont Spa, a sauna area, a well-equipped gym and a semi-open-air infinity pool. The latter can also be used for parties or events. Also the In Jade Lounge serves as a multiple function room for events of all kind.

Overall Silks Club Kaohsiung as one of the best luxury hotels in Taiwan

I have rarely seen a city hotel that is so cool, urban and stylish. Already the 4D kinetic art installation in the lobby set an example for what to expect at Silks Club Kaohsiung. And this continues throughout the hotel. They showcase art works from a mix of local artists and renowned international names that is unparalleled. Also the two-story Japanese restaurant with its unique spiral staircase is a sight. And the modern generously sized rooms are a traveler’s dream! Yet it is not only about style here, but the substance is persuasive as well. Service is immaculate, food is great, and facilities are state-of-the-art! Moreover, this high level of quality comes at a reasonable room price. However, the Signature Wagyu Menu at Restaurant Ukai-tei Teppanyaki has a high price tag. Notwithstanding that, Silks Club Kaohsiung is definitely one of the best luxury hotels in Taiwan.

3. The Lalu Sun Moon Lake

The Lalu on the Sun Moon Lake in the country’s center makes it into my top three luxury hotels in Taiwan because of the beauty of this place. While many aspects as to this accommodation were convincing, others were not. Even though, my husband and I were in awe of this stunning hotel with its unmatched lake views, serene ambiance and intriguing history.

Location

I already gave a spoiler, The Lalu’s location on the Lalu Pensinsula on Sun Moon Lake’s northern coastline is breathtakingly beautiful. It is situated at the foothills of the Central Mountain Range, just by the island’s largest body of water. Next to the small peninsula there is the main tourist village in the area, Shuishe. You get here either from the Taiwan’s west side (Taipei, Taichung or Kaohsiung) or from the east side (Taroko Gorge/Hualien). My husband and I did the latter, arriving by rental car. While this is a wonderful drive through the mountains (allow at least four hours), it is no easy thing (winding and narrow roads).

Ambiance/Staff

What started as a modest cabin in the Japanese colonial time, became later an official government guest house under the Japanese Crown Prince Hirohito and later under President Chiang Kai-Shek. In 20o2, it opened as a luxury hotel. It was rebuilt from the original palace, saving only its beams, columns and floor. All the rest was replaced. The architect in charge was the Australian Kerry Hill who had already designed several Aman hotels. His premise for The Lalu was “Ongoing style”. And in my humble opinion, he succeeded. The hotel is as fresh as it was when built. It is timeless design in perfection.

An interesting detail with The Lalu is the importance of lighting, which was integrated into the planning from the outset. At daytime for example, seven lighting changes occur at different times and in different settings. And you really notice, the hotel’s appearance seems to fluctuate during the course of a day. Yet, it is always a serene, harmonious place. Gazing at the lake from here has such a calming effect on you.

As to the staff, not everyone seems to feel that magic. Whereas the front desk’s performance was immaculate, this was not always the case at the bar and the restaurants. More details on that follows in the section about restaurants.

Rooms/Pricing

There are 96 rooms in total. All to them are suites, sizable (at least 83 sqm) and have a separate living room. An exception here are the Courtyard Pool Villas (333 sqm), which have instead a lounge, a courtyard and an outdoor dining pavilion (there is a handful of them). The least expensive room is the Courtyard Suite – where lake view might be obstructed. The next more expensive is the Lakeside Suite 2nd to 3rd floor, then follows the Lakeview Suite 5th to 7th floor. The top end accommodation is the above mentioned Courtyard Pool Villa. Plus, you also find onsite Lakeview Suites with two bedrooms.

We had opted for a Lakeview Suite on an upper floor and were delighted by ours on the 7th floor! The room was kept in a minimal Zen-like design with lots of wood. There was a spacious, tastefully furnished living room,

which was separated from the bedroom by the television and a closet.

The bathroom was in granite with a large bath tub. And the balcony spanned the full length of the accommodation, offering absolutely stunning lake views. Lying on the outdoor daybed (for two) and letting our gaze wander was such a relaxing thing to do!

The rate for this Lakeview Suite amounted to 599 SFR/US$ for two per day including a full breakfast.

Restaurants

There is quite a choice when it comes to restaurants at The Lalu. Open to the public are The Lake View Chinese Restaurant (fine dining)

and the Oriental Brasseries (Asian & Western contemporary cuisine in a relaxed ambiance). The other three only admit hotel guests and members. It is about The Japanese Restaurant (modern cuisine & Teppanyaki),

The Lobby Bar (drinks & snacks)

and The Tea House (snacks, desserts & tea, only at daytime).

We had breakfast at the Oriental Brasseries, which was solid but not really exceptional. Then we had dinner at both the Chinese

and the Japanese place.

While food in both places was good, the service was not. At the former, we were poorly advised about how many dishes to choose. At the latter, the servers put the dishes in front of us without any explanations (set menu). And at the bar, the bar maid was not welcoming, and this on two occasions. Bottom line, service at the restaurants at The Lalu leaves much to be desired – that is a pity!

Other facilities

You find a spa in the hotel’s east wing where you are in here for massage treatments, saunas, steam rooms, a gym and a hot spring. And there are complimentary yoga classes. The infinitive pool lined with lots of sun beds is great. It is 60 m/ 197 ft long and offers splendid lake views.

Overall as The Lalu as one of the best luxury accommodations in Taiwan

The Lalu is an absolutely stunning property in an unbeatable location with wonderful lake views. The rooms are beautiful and spacious. This is true for most of its communal spaces too, the lobby, the bar or the Japanese restaurant (however some limit the access to hotel guests and members). Also the pool and the adjoining tea house are feasts for the eyes. The front desk service is immaculate, but the one at the Chinese and the Japanese restaurants as well as at the bar do not meet the standard of a high-end five-star property. In terms of food, we had good although not really memorable dinners at the above mentioned dining spots. Regardless of The Lalu’s flaws, it definitely is part of the best luxury hotels in Taiwan.

What about the other three hotels of our Taiwan trip? 

As hinted, we stayed at six luxury hotels on our Taiwan trip. And you already know that we were in favor of all of them. If you want to know more about the individual places, check out my Taiwan one-week and two-week itineraries. Follow the links below:

• Silks Place Taroko
• Gloria Manor Kenting
• Grand View Resort Beitou

Looking back and ahead on my Taiwan journey

So far, I have published considerations to make when planning a (luxury) Taiwan trip, a one-week itinerary (Taiwan’s north) and a two-week itinerary (whole island, the one my husband and I did). Next on my blog – and the last Taiwan post – is about my three restaurant highlights in this country. And they are all fine-dining spots, as we consider ourselves as gourmets. It is our aim to indulge in great food not only at home in Switzerland but also when traveling. Yet we always have an eye on value for money too!

Date of stay: April 2024

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Now it is to the details of a two-week Taiwan itinerary. My last post was about a one-week travel plan comprising the island’s north. If you have two weeks at your disposal, then you can also travel Taiwan’s south. Plus, you have the option to build in one more stay in the north. Such a travel plan allows you to take your time and to explore sights in the respective surroundings too. Again, I only included stops that ensure travel in style. That means places where you find options for staying at luxury hotels and dining at (Michelin) gourmet restaurants. Yet – as always – , I only considered establishments offering value for money.

There are six stops in total. Compared to the one-week itinerary that I described in my last post, there are three more. Two are in the south (Kenting National Park and Kaohsiung), one is in the north (a second Taipei stay). Find in the following my Google Map of a 17-day road trip in Taiwan that my husband and I did. It can be shortened to 14 days without any problems:

Overview on my Google Map of our 17-day Taiwan itinerary

As you could see, we started and ended the journey in Taipei with four stops in-between. The first stop was on the Island’s northeast, at the Taroko Gorge near the seaside town of Hualien. Then we traveled inland to Sun Moon Lake in the foothills of the Central Mountain Range. We continued towards south to the Kenting National Park. And before returning to Taipei, we had our one and only stay in a big city apart from Taipei, and this in Kaohsiung.

As I already went into the first three stops in my mentioned one-week travel plan, you find in this post about a two-week Taiwan itinerary only explanations to the last three ones (Kenting National Park, Kaohsiung and north Taipei). Again, I start with a short description of the respective town/region. Then I let you know what to do here in a few sentences. Finally, I go briefly into each of the high-end hotels we stayed and the (Michelin) fine dining spots we ate.

A 17-day Taiwan round trip with six stops in style

See details to stop 1 – 3 here

4. Kenting National Park (south, 2 nights)

About

The Kenting National Park occupies the entire southern tip of the country. And while Kenting is said to have the best beaches in Taiwan, they are subpar to those of typical beach destinations. Nonetheless, the area boasts a lovely coastal scenery and is well worth a full-day exploring.

Things to do here include: walk in the Sheding Natural Park with its huge coral rocks (volunteers guide you around if you wish), Sail “Nixon” Rock, Taiwan’s southernmost point, Longpan Park (great coastal views)

and Hengchun (old city wall with four ancient gates,

Old Street

with Patisserie Ce Moment).

Hotel: Gloria Manor

This is yet another property that has a connection to the former president Chiang Kai-shek. It used to be one of his presidential guesthouses. And this is easy to understand in light of the picturesque mountain and sea scenery you find here. The hotel is remotely located inside the Kenting National Forest Recreation Area, surrounded by tropical greenery.

Gloria Manor took over the site in 2012. The building convinces with minimalistic design that blends nicely into the natural setting. You find here 60 rooms in a range of categories. Yet it does have to be one with a sea view as this is probably the main attraction of staying here.

Breakfasts are excellent, you can make your choice out of several ones served on a tray.

And you can have it also in the pleasant outdoor area. Mu is the only restaurant on site, find some details below.

Restaurants: Mu Restaurant (at Hotel Gloria Manor)

At Gloria Manor’s Mu Restaurant you get excellent Taiwan cuisine with a modern twist. And the place strictly adheres to the principle “not in season, not on the menu”. The setting is relaxed yet still with an upscale touch. My husband and I dined here on both evenings and liked what we got. Good choices from the à la carte menu were Wonton Soup, Crab Omelet, Fried Rice with Pineapple & Dolphinfish, Mango Pomelo Sago or Baked Pudding.

There is also a set menu (1,680 TWD / 47 SFR/US$).

5. Kaohsiung (south, 3 nights)

About

Kaohsiung is Taiwan’s third most populous city and is home to the island’s largest port. While it long used to be an industrial city, it has been reorienting itself toward tourism as well as art and culture since since the turn of the millennium. This shows in the vast Pier-2 Art Center where former shipping warehouses were turned into shops and cafés. And there are museums, art installations and street art. I for one liked the dynamic vibe of Kaohsiung!

As to more classic sights here, the scenic Lotus Pond in the north of the city is an good place to go. It is known for its 20 temples or so along the shoreline and nearby.

And there is the Confucius Temple too. Another big name attraction in the area is the Fo Guang Shan Monastery, outside of town, which is the largest in all of Taiwan and quite a sight.

Last but not least, we used Kaohsiung for a day trip to Tainan. This is Taiwan’s original capital and still retains a traditional vibe. Go to the city center first (Confucius Temple, Hayashi Departement Store, Snail Alley & Shennong Street, two quaint streets;

then proceed to the Anping District (Anping Fort, Anping Old Street, Anping Treehouse).

Hotel: Silks Club

Silks Club is one kind of a cool, urban hotel, attracting business and leisure travelers alike. It is located in the emerging neighborhood of Qianzhen, opened in 2017. Already the sleek lobby with the reflecting pool of water impresses.

And it continues when it comes to the rooms. The 147 units have an average size of 66 sqm, floor-to-ceiling windows and oversized bathrooms.

The place for breakfast is In Jade Lounge – you get it on a tray plus there is small buffet, and it is a tasty affair.

You can also come here for drinks in the evening. The restaurant, a branch of the Japanese Ukai Tei, is divided into several sub-spots (Teppanyaki, Kaiseki & Grill). Find more info on the former below.

Restaurants: Ukai-tei Teppanyaki (at Silks Club), Marc L³ & Sho

For our Kaohsiung food adventures, my husband and I chose three Michelin dining spots. One even has a Michelin star (Sho), two are on the 50Best Discovery list (Sho & Marc L³).

I start with the “hotel restaurant”, Ukai-tea Teppanyki, where they serve a Wagyu menu (Rump 4,800 TWD, Sirloin 5,800 TWD, Tenderloin 6,500 TWD). We opted for the Sirloin (161 SFR/US$) and could witness quality ingredients being cooked on the iron plate right before our eyes. And we even had a chef who exclusively cooked for the two of us! That was quite an experience, especially when it was up to the preparation of the abalone (from live to death).

Our favorite dinner in Kaoshiung and probably on our whole Taiwan trip was the one at Marc L³. The three L’s stand for Live x Liberal x Limitless. Reservations here are difficult to get, and we had to pay our meal in advance (which was not a no-brainer to arrange). Yet, once seated at the counter (9 seats only), we were in for culinary magic! Unique French fare was prepared in front of us, and this as eight-course menu (3,960 TWD / 112 SFR/US$) in a relaxed ambiance.

And the chef is such a nice guy too, communicative, approachable and amiable! What a great evening we had here!

Dining at Sho, an outpost of the Tokyo famed Den Restaurant, was a epicurean highlight as well. We were treated to an exquisite Japanese meal with creative touches. Quite in contrast to Marc L³, it took place in a somewhat chilly ambiance. The place – a counter with 14 seats – had an almost clinical appearance. Notwithstanding that, we truly enjoyed the tasting menu (3,500 TWD + rice upgrade 700 TWD / 119 SFR/US$). And if you are wondering about the rice upgrade, go for it! It is a traditional rice dish cooked in an iron pot called a kama, once with Wagyu and the other time with scallops.

6. Taipei (Beitou District, north of the center, 3 nights)

About

Our second stay in Tapei was in Beitou, the capital’s most northern district. While it is not too far away from Taipei’s center (half an hour by MRT), it has a less urban feel. The hilly area is known for its hot springs and is close to beautiful nature.

We had planned to explore Taiwan’s north from Beitou. Yet we only managed to do one such day trip because of not so good weather. And this was to Jiufen,

a seaside town in the lush mountains northeast of Taipei (book a Taiwan tea time at Jiufen Artist Teahouse, expensive yet worthwhile;

escape the crowds by hiking the Jinguashi Aqueduct Trail). We left out the second one to Yangmingshan National Park on Taipei’s northern fringe. Instead, we headed to central Taipei once again, to the University District. And it was lively, even on a Sunday. And do not miss the sights in Beitou: Thermal Valley, Puji Temple,

Beitou Library, Xinbeitou Historic Station.

Hotel: Grand View Resort Beitou

While Beitou is not the first address for first timers to Taipei seeking to explore the city to the fullest, it was ideal for our purposes. Having already done the capital’s major sights, we longed for a quiet place to spend our last few days in Taiwan. Staying here is the best of both worlds: being in relative proximity to Taipei’s center and at the same surrounded by nature.

Grand View Resort Beitou is the most luxurious among the many hot-spring hotels that make use of the sulfurous hot-spring water that bubbles from the ground. The relatively large and modern property (opened in 2011) stands high on a slope with beautiful views of Beitou and beyond.

All the 66 guest rooms are spacious and come with hot-spring bathrooms, allowing a private soaking experience. I think the accommodations could use a little touch up, especially the wet area (the moisture from the hot springs does not help).

Breakfasts are really good here, served on a tray. And they even offered another variety on our third day. There are three restaurants, from which we tried out two (we did not eat at Aqua Deck with light continental food). Find more details in the next section.

Restaurants: Chinese Cuisine & C’est Bon (both at Hotel Grand View Resort)

We had dinner every evening at Hotel Grand View Resort Beitou. As I had read good things about the Chinese Cuisine – it is Michelin listed – , we went there twice.

One evening, we tried out the French place, C’est Bon.

While both offered fine food, we found C’est Bon better. We had a lovely dinner here indulging in immaculately prepared French food with a Taiwanese twist. Out of the four set menus, we ordered the one with Boston Lobster (3,080 TWD / 87 SFR/USD$), and we relished it.

As to the Chinese place, we had a not so good dining experience on our first evening. Whereas the food was good (we had opted for à la carte), service and setting were less so. Everything was better on our second dinner – we had the Vegetarian Set Menu (2,280 TWD / 64 SFR/US$). Yet C’est Bon has our love!

Looking back and ahead on my Taiwan journey

The start made some considerations to bear in mind when planning a (luxury) Taiwan trip (my post), followed by a proposal for one-week itinerary here. This is actually the first part of the journey my husband and I did on this island. It includes the three major travel highlights in this country, Taipei, Taroko Gorge and Sun Moon Lake. As luxury traveler and  fine dining lover, I also give recommendations as to where to stay and dine in style. In addition, I go into what to do in all theses places, plus some ideas for side trips. In this very post, you get the same thing, yet for the second part of our trip. Taken together, you have info on our original 17-day itinerary (that you can shorten to a 2-week Taiwan itinerary). Next on my blog, you will find out about my personal hotel and restaurant highlights in Taiwan in some more details.

Date of stay: April 2024

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The post Taiwan in style, a 2-week road trip itinerary first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post Taiwan in style, a 2-week road trip itinerary appeared first on Swiss Traveler.